Thank you so much. Your video will help a lot. I will use your intructions to start knitting with my mom's machine. Machine was sleeping for 30 years :) Peace and love.
I am so glad to hear that! Good luck waking her up - I am sure you will have a lot of frustrations at first, but it will work out in the end, I am sure! Please note though, that I had to buy a cast on comb before my machine started working really well :)
I love your videos ! Just revived a Passap duomatic pink and I don't have the manual. I would love to purchase a copy of the manual or even an original manual if possible.
You seem to know more about the Passat Duo 80 than anyone else on TH-cam and have the most recent posts. I was just gifted one and am struggling to make it work consistently. My goal right now is to knit sock tubes. I hope you are able to answer a few questions. I have a Fingering weight sock yarn. My typical hand knit socks are 64 sts. I’m pretty sure I have the machine threaded properly. I have 32 needles (16 on each side of zero both front and back) in ready position with the end of row clamps on the first and 32nd needles. I saw in the manual that the back needles need to be shifted one to the right of the front needles. Also, the handle is down. I am just wanting to knit Stockinette so I made the first pass on N then changed to CX for the other rows with a stitch size 3. I thought I had it figured out but realized several stitches were dropped. Tension is set to 4. Any idea what I am doing wrong? Thank you so much!
Hi Tambra :) Congratulations on your machine! It's a bit hard in the beginning, but I am sure you will figure it out! The fingering weight yarn might be too thick for the machine, I think the heaviest yarn I use would be "lace". I buy cones of machine yarn for the same reason - it just has a hard time with the heavier (I know fingering is super thin, but still) yarns. If your hand knit socks are 64 sts you should have more sts on the machine. It knits super fine and once you take it off the machine and stretch it into shape (up and down) the piece is going to be narrower and more stretchy that it is, stretched out on the machine. With my normal hand knit guage (do you know what I mean?) the machine knits as if I was using 1,25 mm needles (!) So, to answer your question: To knit a sock, first knit a swatch, measure it and make a new sock pattern with the guage you are getting. this is done by making a swatch larger than 4" x 4" and measuring 4 inches of sts and 4 inches of rows. now divide the number of rows by 4, and the number of sts by 4. This gives you the guage as 1" x 1" = row-guage x st-guage. Now measure a sock you have knit. the number of sts you need is your st-guage times the number of inches on the sock-round. Now measure the length in inches and again, the number will be the how many inches high the sock is times your row-guage. Your method sound correct, but I would do a couple more rows on N before switching to CX. Also, you might find a cast-on comb helpful - I bought one some time ago and I CANNOT knit without it now. It keeps the downward tension on the first few rows very even, which makes it a much more fun experience! I cannot tell you which stitch size and tension works with your yarn, but I saw a very talented Indian lady on youtube (though it was a very old clip, so it might have been some ripped instructional video rather than something for youtube) who tested the guage and tension, simply by casting on, doing a couple of rows with the largest st-size and then going down until it "felt right"working with the machine. Meaning it was knitting easily. Afterwards she took the knitting off, and it was clear which one was the right size. The right tension is the one that makes the yarn clear the sides (not stick to the brush underneath the lock), but isn't so tight that it snaps the yarn or makes it very hard to move the lock. I hope this helps a bit. I watched a million videos and read the manual just as many times before having any luck with the machine. I also ended up cleaning the lock and changing several needles that were bent or broken. I quit a few times too. If you stick with it, you will get there :) all the best Johanne
I want to do that as well! I have set up my studio in an old camper van outside my house now (the houses in DK are that small) and videos will be coming when the baby is bigger :) I foolishly thought having 2 kids would be easier ;)
It's a challanging machine, but training will help yes :) I wish you the best of luck, and I am envious of you for getting to work with this machine still. Mine broke. The metal and all the parts are still whole, but the plastic teeth broke. After gluing it up, it kept falling apart so I had to give it up.
ok - I need a bit more than that :) Is it all the time or some of the time? Mostly the edge stitches? Are you using a cast on comb and/or weights? what kind of yarn are you using? Dropping stitches is normal on these old machines. It's most likely a matter of 1) the needles being bend or dirty 2) not enough or wrongly placed weights 3) broken/loose edge springs 4) a dirty carriage (which is unlikely, since you aren't saying that all/most of the stitches are being dropped) 5) wrong or inappropriate yarn type or weight ... so don't worry, it's probably something simple - the DM80 is bomb-proof (mostly) :)
.I want to get good at short-rowing on the Passap, even if it kills me, it just might. When short-rowing on the Passap, should I put the edge spring on the needle after the wrapped needle or on the wrapped needle? I think on the needle after the wrapped needle, is that right?
Sure! It won't kill you I promise :) I don't know about the edge spring - I usually keep mine at the end of the work, but I will be moving the weights to the spot where I am short-rowing because the tension gets really wonky - especially on something like a sock heel :) If you want the edge spring to help, try both and see which one you like - maybe your machine has a preference ;)
@@johannenagel7056 hi again, yes my pinky and even my duo80 do like the edge spings to be moved to the needles just after the wrap. the tension really does get wonky during heal shaping., oh and especially neckline shaping with shortrows Thank you, Johanne.
thank you :) GX means the machine does not knit - the lock moves freely over the stitches. CX means it knits in the round. First, it knits the front (moving to the left) then it knits the back (moving to the right). I show you the tube it produces, but I can see how it looks like single knitting on the video :)
This could be many things, the machine is (honestly) pretty hard to begin using. I am going to ask you a lot of questions now : ) - what yarn are you using? - are you using a cast on comb? - do you have strippers in, if yes, what color are they? Do you get an even zig zag on the first row? What tensions are the carriages set to? Are they both in N or in some program (is the lever on X?) How hard is the carriage to push? Is the yarn taught on the antenna when you start the second row (the antenna is where you thread the yarn through). We will figure it out, I am sure, but it is a little hard when I can't see the machine : )
Aunt Johanne 2 ply. Yes. Orange strippers. Yes I do. Both N. it starts off hard then jams. And to free it I always have to snip the yarn. Not really. The antenna is all the way back not bent forward.
ok, first off, do not cast on with the strippers in, it might not be causing you this issue, but they can get caught in the cast on comb and break, so take them out until row 4 or 5. I know I am not using the comb in the video, but I did not have one back then. If you are hanging the cast in comb correctly and completely centered (not dangling to any of the sides) I think it could be one of two things: Either the tension on the antenna is too loose (it has to be pulling on the yarn, if you look at your carriage it has a little brush underneath, which can make the yarn snag, if it isn't being pulled out of the lock going towards to right side). I usually have my tension at the tightest setting. If that isn't it, the stitch size on the carriages might be too small. You probably want it to be 4 or 5 to start (but it is hard to say). If it is too tight, the force on the needles will be too great, and it will appear jammed, even though it is not. Another option (which I hope is not it!) is that the carriage is old and dirty. Gunk and oil might be making it hard to pick up the needles and get the yarn through the latches. Play with the stitch size and see if it gets easier to push, if it does not, you might need to get it cleaned. Did that help? I hope you get it going : )
This video would be so much better if you were narrating it. It's hard to tell what exactly your are doing. It's a great video if only there were more explanation either by written text on the screen or you speaking what you're doing.
You are right. In general I wish I had done more with this, but time is a very limiting factor in my life these days. When I get more of it, I will narrate it :)
This is used, I bought it from a lady who didn't want it anymore. I think you can buy knitting machines on amazon/ebay and similar places. Maybe I should do a "do's and dont's" when buying knitting machines used - video. It's quite hard to know what you are getting (I think).
I have one I can't for the life of me figure out how to use. I cleaned it up and it's sitting for over 6 mos while I try and figure it out. I'm about to give up. You can have this one if you're still looking.
Hi Joanne, may I ask you something please, if I forget the put my pushers back down and have my settings on EX/EX, will the pushers still move? I am looking at this video and in position 8:53 on the video, the pushers are still moving on alternate rows, while on setting EX/EX.. Is it because the arrow buttons are still engaged? th-cam.com/video/3F9tIlNKYaA/w-d-xo.html
I am not completely sure what you are asking, is the time stamp for my video or for The Answer Lady's? If it's for her video, yes - the pushers are moving because the arrow buttons are engaged, making them switch position :) The type of knit (EX, N CX etc.) only effects how the yarn and needles behave, it cannot move the pushers. Only you, the deco or the arrow buttons can effect the pushers :) Also, perhaps you haven't forgotten to put them back down, sometimes if the arrow buttons are pushed in, the carriage will rip them back up out of the rail.
@@johannenagel7056 Yes I read the manual but many times it is good to see the process on a video because it reinforces what you have read and makes the thought so much clearer! But I thank you from the bottom of my heart for the help you’ve given me! I learned how to knit by hand from you also, so you are my hero! I made my grandson's first sleeper by your instructions, four years ago!
Can somebody point me to basic/basic PASSUP PINKY -- like how to THREAD the machine. I watched this video and I can tell she's threading but no clue how to follow it on my machine. I'm a complete NEWBY with ZERO experience knitting on a machine.
Ok, this is quite a long list, but I hope it helps :) I am using the double ended bodkin (0:39) to thread it. 1) 0:55 The yarn is placed behind the machine, or in the little basket, and threaded up through the eye to the one side. 2) Now put it into the tension dial (in my case this is the little green thing with the numbers on it @ 1:23). 3) 1:00 Let the yarn follow the arm all the way out to the end, putting it through the two loops/eyes as you go. 4) 1:06 Place one of the black cone-shaped eye-thingies (yes, that is the technical term) in the sled and put the yarn through here too. 5) 1:13 Secure the yarn all the way to the right of your front bed in the little notch. Make sure not to pull to tight at break it! 6) 1:15 go back to the top and pull down the antenna. Put the yarn into the coil/eye and let it go. 7) 1:25 (and this is the important bit!!) turn the tension dial until the tension is a) tight enough that the antenna stays down. The yarn from the eye to the antenna should span about a hands breadth b) it should be loose enough that the antenna never touches the eye - this will result in broken yarn and other dissasters. I hope that helps :) All the best Johanne
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you so much. Your video will help a lot. I will use your intructions to start knitting with my mom's machine. Machine was sleeping for 30 years :) Peace and love.
I am so glad to hear that! Good luck waking her up - I am sure you will have a lot of frustrations at first, but it will work out in the end, I am sure! Please note though, that I had to buy a cast on comb before my machine started working really well :)
Thank you! This video really helped me understand what I am supposed to be doing with this machine.
EveVB awesome! I am so glad it was helpful. Please ask if you need anything else :)
may I have education for passap duomatic 80.
I have a chance to buy one of these today... came to this video to check it out
Hi i was gifted a passap duo pinkie and a electra M -75 motor i have no idea howto set the motor up, but this video is helping
unfortunately I have no idea either, because I never got to the point of setting up a motor for it. I am glad if the video helps though :)
I love your videos ! Just revived a Passap duomatic pink and I don't have the manual. I would love to purchase a copy of the manual or even an original manual if possible.
You seem to know more about the Passat Duo 80 than anyone else on TH-cam and have the most recent posts. I was just gifted one and am struggling to make it work consistently. My goal right now is to knit sock tubes. I hope you are able to answer a few questions. I have a Fingering weight sock yarn. My typical hand knit socks are 64 sts. I’m pretty sure I have the machine threaded properly. I have 32 needles (16 on each side of zero both front and back) in ready position with the end of row clamps on the first and 32nd needles. I saw in the manual that the back needles need to be shifted one to the right of the front needles. Also, the handle is down. I am just wanting to knit Stockinette so I made the first pass on N then changed to CX for the other rows with a stitch size 3. I thought I had it figured out but realized several stitches were dropped. Tension is set to 4. Any idea what I am doing wrong? Thank you so much!
Hi Tambra :) Congratulations on your machine! It's a bit hard in the beginning, but I am sure you will figure it out!
The fingering weight yarn might be too thick for the machine, I think the heaviest yarn I use would be "lace". I buy cones of machine yarn for the same reason - it just has a hard time with the heavier (I know fingering is super thin, but still) yarns.
If your hand knit socks are 64 sts you should have more sts on the machine. It knits super fine and once you take it off the machine and stretch it into shape (up and down) the piece is going to be narrower and more stretchy that it is, stretched out on the machine. With my normal hand knit guage (do you know what I mean?) the machine knits as if I was using 1,25 mm needles (!)
So, to answer your question: To knit a sock, first knit a swatch, measure it and make a new sock pattern with the guage you are getting. this is done by making a swatch larger than 4" x 4" and measuring 4 inches of sts and 4 inches of rows. now divide the number of rows by 4, and the number of sts by 4. This gives you the guage as 1" x 1" = row-guage x st-guage. Now measure a sock you have knit. the number of sts you need is your st-guage times the number of inches on the sock-round. Now measure the length in inches and again, the number will be the how many inches high the sock is times your row-guage.
Your method sound correct, but I would do a couple more rows on N before switching to CX. Also, you might find a cast-on comb helpful - I bought one some time ago and I CANNOT knit without it now. It keeps the downward tension on the first few rows very even, which makes it a much more fun experience!
I cannot tell you which stitch size and tension works with your yarn, but I saw a very talented Indian lady on youtube (though it was a very old clip, so it might have been some ripped instructional video rather than something for youtube) who tested the guage and tension, simply by casting on, doing a couple of rows with the largest st-size and then going down until it "felt right"working with the machine. Meaning it was knitting easily. Afterwards she took the knitting off, and it was clear which one was the right size. The right tension is the one that makes the yarn clear the sides (not stick to the brush underneath the lock), but isn't so tight that it snaps the yarn or makes it very hard to move the lock.
I hope this helps a bit. I watched a million videos and read the manual just as many times before having any luck with the machine. I also ended up cleaning the lock and changing several needles that were bent or broken. I quit a few times too. If you stick with it, you will get there :)
all the best
Johanne
Thank you for your video,
I wish you continue to make video how to use Passap Duo 80 and trouble shooting.
I want to do that as well! I have set up my studio in an old camper van outside my house now (the houses in DK are that small) and videos will be coming when the baby is bigger :) I foolishly thought having 2 kids would be easier ;)
I need more training, will be following you
It's a challanging machine, but training will help yes :) I wish you the best of luck, and I am envious of you for getting to work with this machine still. Mine broke. The metal and all the parts are still whole, but the plastic teeth broke. After gluing it up, it kept falling apart so I had to give it up.
Awesome incidental music!
Hahah xD Thank you :D feel free to remix it as you see fit xD
I have question. My front carriage is dropping stitches. Am o doing something wrong or is the carriage broken
ok - I need a bit more than that :)
Is it all the time or some of the time? Mostly the edge stitches? Are you using a cast on comb and/or weights? what kind of yarn are you using?
Dropping stitches is normal on these old machines. It's most likely a matter of
1) the needles being bend or dirty
2) not enough or wrongly placed weights
3) broken/loose edge springs
4) a dirty carriage (which is unlikely, since you aren't saying that all/most of the stitches are being dropped)
5) wrong or inappropriate yarn type or weight
... so don't worry, it's probably something simple - the DM80 is bomb-proof (mostly) :)
.I want to get good at short-rowing on the Passap, even if it kills me, it just might. When short-rowing on the Passap, should I put the edge spring on the needle after the wrapped needle or on the wrapped needle? I think on the needle after the wrapped needle, is that right?
Sure! It won't kill you I promise :) I don't know about the edge spring - I usually keep mine at the end of the work, but I will be moving the weights to the spot where I am short-rowing because the tension gets really wonky - especially on something like a sock heel :)
If you want the edge spring to help, try both and see which one you like - maybe your machine has a preference ;)
@@johannenagel7056 hi again, yes my pinky and even my duo80 do like the edge spings to be moved to the needles just after the wrap. the tension really does get wonky during heal shaping., oh and especially neckline shaping with shortrows Thank you, Johanne.
Hello, do you give online passap knitting courses ? im interested (paid of course)
You video is very well done thank you for posting! I noticed at 3:35 you put the back lock in CX, shouldn't it be in GX? for only front bed knitting?
thank you :) GX means the machine does not knit - the lock moves freely over the stitches. CX means it knits in the round. First, it knits the front (moving to the left) then it knits the back (moving to the right). I show you the tube it produces, but I can see how it looks like single knitting on the video :)
@@johannenagel7056 Thanks :) I think I understand rewatching now that you were doing a double bed edging on the single bed swatch.
❤❤❤❤
I need help. I've just got this machine and it keeps jamming on the 2nd row. I don't know what to do. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
This could be many things, the machine is (honestly) pretty hard to begin using. I am going to ask you a lot of questions now : ) - what yarn are you using? - are you using a cast on comb? - do you have strippers in, if yes, what color are they? Do you get an even zig zag on the first row? What tensions are the carriages set to? Are they both in N or in some program (is the lever on X?) How hard is the carriage to push? Is the yarn taught on the antenna when you start the second row (the antenna is where you thread the yarn through). We will figure it out, I am sure, but it is a little hard when I can't see the machine : )
Aunt Johanne 2 ply. Yes. Orange strippers. Yes I do. Both N. it starts off hard then jams. And to free it I always have to snip the yarn. Not really. The antenna is all the way back not bent forward.
ok, first off, do not cast on with the strippers in, it might not be causing you this issue, but they can get caught in the cast on comb and break, so take them out until row 4 or 5. I know I am not using the comb in the video, but I did not have one back then.
If you are hanging the cast in comb correctly and completely centered (not dangling to any of the sides) I think it could be one of two things: Either the tension on the antenna is too loose (it has to be pulling on the yarn, if you look at your carriage it has a little brush underneath, which can make the yarn snag, if it isn't being pulled out of the lock going towards to right side). I usually have my tension at the tightest setting.
If that isn't it, the stitch size on the carriages might be too small. You probably want it to be 4 or 5 to start (but it is hard to say). If it is too tight, the force on the needles will be too great, and it will appear jammed, even though it is not.
Another option (which I hope is not it!) is that the carriage is old and dirty. Gunk and oil might be making it hard to pick up the needles and get the yarn through the latches. Play with the stitch size and see if it gets easier to push, if it does not, you might need to get it cleaned.
Did that help? I hope you get it going : )
Aunt Johanne Will try these suggestions tomorrow. Thank you for all the help xxx
Aunt Johanne I tried them and it's knitting! Thanks so much did my 1st square testing it out. Now I can go onto knitting. Thank you SO much!!!
This video would be so much better if you were narrating it. It's hard to tell what exactly your are doing. It's a great video if only there were more explanation either by written text on the screen or you speaking what you're doing.
You are right. In general I wish I had done more with this, but time is a very limiting factor in my life these days. When I get more of it, I will narrate it :)
I NEED THE BELT OF THE DUOATIC MOTOR 80 ELECTRA 3000A IF YOU CAN HELP ME PLEASE
Go and look at "theanswerladyknits" I think she and her husband repairs/sells these kinds of things : )
Where do you buy a machine like this?
This is used, I bought it from a lady who didn't want it anymore. I think you can buy knitting machines on amazon/ebay and similar places. Maybe I should do a "do's and dont's" when buying knitting machines used - video. It's quite hard to know what you are getting (I think).
I have one I can't for the life of me figure out how to use. I cleaned it up and it's sitting for over 6 mos while I try and figure it out. I'm about to give up. You can have this one if you're still looking.
Hi Joanne, may I ask you something please, if I forget the put my pushers back down and have my settings on EX/EX, will the pushers still move? I am looking at this video and in position 8:53 on the video, the pushers are still moving on alternate rows, while on setting EX/EX.. Is it because the arrow buttons are still engaged? th-cam.com/video/3F9tIlNKYaA/w-d-xo.html
I am not completely sure what you are asking, is the time stamp for my video or for The Answer Lady's? If it's for her video, yes - the pushers are moving because the arrow buttons are engaged, making them switch position :)
The type of knit (EX, N CX etc.) only effects how the yarn and needles behave, it cannot move the pushers. Only you, the deco or the arrow buttons can effect the pushers :) Also, perhaps you haven't forgotten to put them back down, sometimes if the arrow buttons are pushed in, the carriage will rip them back up out of the rail.
@@johannenagel7056 yes, thank you, Johanne. I understand it now. I am loving my Passap!! Your videos have helped me so much!
@@knit1924 It is so cool that you are enjoying it! Frankly the learning curve is steep and the instruction manual is not always helpful :) !
@@johannenagel7056 Yes I read the manual but many times it is good to see the process on a video because it reinforces what you have read and makes the thought so much clearer! But I thank you from the bottom of my heart for the help you’ve given me! I learned how to knit by hand from you also, so you are my hero! I made my grandson's first sleeper by your instructions, four years ago!
@@knit1924 wow that is really touching
Como faço para comprar uma pleasse
Can somebody point me to basic/basic PASSUP PINKY -- like how to THREAD the machine. I watched this video and I can tell she's threading but no clue how to follow it on my machine. I'm a complete NEWBY with ZERO experience knitting on a machine.
Ok, this is quite a long list, but I hope it helps :) I am using the double ended bodkin (0:39) to thread it.
1) 0:55 The yarn is placed behind the machine, or in the little basket, and threaded up through the eye to the one side.
2) Now put it into the tension dial (in my case this is the little green thing with the numbers on it @ 1:23).
3) 1:00 Let the yarn follow the arm all the way out to the end, putting it through the two loops/eyes as you go.
4) 1:06 Place one of the black cone-shaped eye-thingies (yes, that is the technical term) in the sled and put the yarn through here too.
5) 1:13 Secure the yarn all the way to the right of your front bed in the little notch. Make sure not to pull to tight at break it!
6) 1:15 go back to the top and pull down the antenna. Put the yarn into the coil/eye and let it go.
7) 1:25 (and this is the important bit!!) turn the tension dial until the tension is
a) tight enough that the antenna stays down. The yarn from the eye to the antenna should span about a hands breadth
b) it should be loose enough that the antenna never touches the eye - this will result in broken yarn and other dissasters.
I hope that helps :)
All the best
Johanne
@@johannenagel7056
Plais do ather vidéos on passap i watche you from morroco
Ok : )
Aunt Johanne tank you so mathe im willetin