ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มิ.ย. 2022
- Here is a early prototype of a fast corexy printer I have been playing around with.
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I’m so glad I found your channel it just makes me wanna build a new printer every time I see one of your video’s
What a great project! Looks amazing! Seems very well though out and engineered.
just wait till you see the real version!
VERY interesting project! I'd love to see this scaled up to 350mm cubed. For extuder/hot-end I'm using the Mellow NF Sunrise which I think with a modified mount could be ideal for this design. Looking forward to your updates, thanks.
I do want to try this on my 330x330 printer and see what happens
since the front is open, you can add some room between linear rods on that side, in case you wanna upgrade stuff later
Rubber ends on the extrusions to reduce vibrations. Or you can put a memory foam pad like Stephan from C&C Kitchen did to reduce vibrations.
Yeah not all parts have to be rigid and stiff, esp the gantry.
Yeah! 👍awesome work bro. My direction as well, will try hollow shaft on x&y. more than half the weight removed. wants to remove both fans using air hose another 50+ 8:59 g shaved off excluding fan shrouds.(less wires too). Will also use the side fan as u have done like Vzbot n bamboo. I don’t like coreXY. I prefer cross gantry with always on 2 motors per axis shorter belts. Sourcing carbon rods not cheap last options. My challenge is cheap n readily available but print fast n quality. Thanks for sharing your awesome build💕love it.
One suggestion: you could mount your bowden extruder and motor on an arm that mounts the extruder directly above the center of the bed, like 10-12"" above the nozzle. I did it with success, cut my bowden tube from 20" down to 12". A shorter bowden tube makes an enormous difference. I could u a pic if u are interested.
I have decided to go with the sailfin direct drive extruder
@@Rolohaun even better. Good choice!
I'd love to see that pic!
Very nice, I wish I can turn my BIQU B1 SE PLUS to one of this 🤔
Also make sure you are putting the igus bearings in the properly spec size hole (they need to be compressed to achieve no backlash and proper life expectancy) I just used the metal cased igus bearings that are precompressed but for lightweight I would recommend .5mm below OD
yes Igus need a clamp for best results so you can fine tune the pressure.
Awesome project! Great design choices all around! Thanks for sharing.
I wonder if you could use tensioned steel cables like guy wires to reduce the vibration of the printer without having to add expensive mass etc? I've been thinking about something like this for my flsun q5
Yes I have seen some delta printers use that method, the frame in this printer is already pretty ridged I don't know if cables would help.
You can get the same linear shafts as bambu does from igus. They make specific carbon rods for lightweight applications.
it's too expensive to be worth it for DIY, around 114 CAD and it's a whole assembly
Man i hope design around a kit like voron that you can print except its a bit cheap. Great work
That x carriage looks amazing! Would love to do something similar on mine and also change the layout from cartesian XY to a core xy!
It's definitely a work in progress, I was to make more revisions and post more videos
Actually cartesian aka crossxy is better than corexy.
@@smokehead5318 mind telling me how cartesian is better than corexy??
One of the things I always admire a Voron for is their cable management with drag chains mounted in a good way. It makes other printers, including mine and this one unfinished. So: you asked for ideas to integrate: better cable management to the hotend.
I would really like to see more usb C toolheads, not can bus but just simple toolhead mcu boards connected via USB. Still waiting for that
Drag chains are nice and all but when used properly they ad quite a bit of weight to the y axis. Guiding the wires along the ptfe tube is the way to go imo
I was browsing your old videos and saw this one and thought at first you had a early prototype of the Bambu printer. LOL
haha ya it was an experiment
@@Rolohaun A very cool experiment too!
I'm converting my Xvico / Lerdge to a Core XY. I found a plan on Thingiverse: Swiftcore? The frame is made with 1/2' copper pipe. I'll file it with some kind of sand. I'm using carbon tubes all the way around. I'll post a video when it works, if I get it there. Bought a Sonic Pad for my CR6SE also. I'm looking forwards to seeing Klipper results for that machine.
I ditched the carbon fiber rods on my corexy printer and went for linear rails. With a direct extruder on it I found there was too much flex in the rods, even the rods were carbon.
But; I had the rods above each other, your setup it a bit more ridgid in that respect I guess.👍
O, could still loose some weight on the gantry mounting the X-limit switch on the Y axis.. 😄
Why would you ever put the rods above each other, the weight on the axis isn't what you should worry about. The mistake is definitely not on the rods here....
there is also problem mounting it in one plane horizontally because the weight of the direct extruder may arch the CF tube downwards. I think 4 tube provide 3d strength horizontally and vertically might do the trick. It is still way lighter than an mgn rail with aluminium 2020 tube.
@@H_B_R That sounds like a huge pain in the ass, to be honest. Just go for larger OD at that point.
Hey, great job!!!! keep doing it. Btw, which filament are you using? I really like how can blend with the blue tape.
This is overture matte blue pla
Very nice. Long time not seen any carbon rod builds. I would love to see more details, and print quality examples for different speeds.
Are your big fans working in the video? It's so quiet!
yes the fans are working! they don't do a whole lot so I am going to be using a cpap mod. I am basically going to be redesign the entire printer for carbon rods I hope to do a lot of videos on print quality and speed
Just wondering if you've ever experimented with alternative materials for the frame. Your comment about a really stiff frame being a good way to transmit vibration through the machine. With a hollow material you could fill the frame with lead shot or sand to deaden vibration. You could still use aluminum extrusions for some of the frame, but using something like black gas pipe from the hardware store could be one way to have vibration dampening built into the frame itself while still building a very rigid machine. The DIY CNC community does stuff like that. Might not be a bad place to get some inspiration.
I have been experimenting with 3d printed frame and some other ideas, defiantly stay tuned to my channel I have many ideas coming
This is excellent!! I had this same idea of carbon tubes + polymer bushings a few months ago but wasn't sure if it would work. Looks like no issues. Did you see any noticeable improvement in quality or speed with the closed loop controllers for the stepper motors? Cheers
this was abandon, very hard to find CF rods that are a consistent diameter. Closed loop steppers are great but some users report they can't go that fast, I find you need to calibrate them first using the onboard controller on the stepper
Nice project!
this stepping driver close loop it's very good low heat motor&driver
awesome machine! man u are a legend
This is amazing!
Getting the gantry weight down is important, so carbon rods make sense. Do you have any plans to reduce weight of the end pieces of the gantry? Looks like they are printed. Maybe you could get away with much smaller pulley bearings with carbon shafts of screws. Lighter linear bearings would be nice too. Could you use a smaller linear rail?
CHC heater to reduce heater block weight, as well as a small and efficient hotend heatsink.
I am defiantly trying some things, I am already using MGN9 on the Y I don't want to go any smaller than that. We will see what my input shaper accel max is when I build the real version
Would you be willing to explain the advantage of closed loop steppers to me? amazing build btw. Love how quiet it is!
closed loop steppers know exactly were they are. They use an encoder on the back of the stepper to accurately control them. This also reduces noise and vibration
@@Rolohaun thank you for the reply! How does this reduce noise?
@K M I believe because the stepper does not over compensate when moving it can use less power and that reduces noise and vibration
@@Rolohaun Makes sense.
Nice! What closed loop sollution are you using? Tks
Adding wheight to the frame will help you a lot.
I am using makerbase 42c closed loop steppers
I love the idea of being super light with these printers. I built a voron 2.4 and its fast but I keep trying to find way to cut weight. Do you have any plans online for other to build?
not right now for this one, too hard to get good tolerance CF rods
@@Rolohaun Bummer that looks like a fun one. A printer that is super light and fast.
Hi, neat job. Where did you get the extrusion 90 degree end plates from?
they are on amazon and ali express www.amazon.ca/Aluminum-Profile-Connector-Include-Bracket/dp/B097TB84D2/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=20ROM8YQTJI51&keywords=corner+bracket+2020&qid=1680126531&sprefix=corner+bracket+2020%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExU09KOTkzN1JTSUxBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjg1MTMxVlpGMFBUM0c1RjA4JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2ODE1OTYyVVlHRkxVVVNUSVVXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
i really like the z axis and xy but you need to work and the toolhead check the Voron mods you may find some good cooling solution.
Thank you unfortunately this printer is discontinued
I used direct drive with two carbon rods, that was not a good idea as the weight bent the rods. You may get a way with the Sherpa but another two rods may make things a little more stiff.
How about making at least one of the carbon tubes larger diameter? 10mm is about twice the stiffness of 8mm, and 12mm is almost 4x the stiffness, and only 1.5x the weight.
Nice bit of kit, but I refer to your comment on rigidity of the frame and vibration, ridgitiy is paramount for accuracy and stability, I think the real issue is motor type, quality and power, cutting back on weight with motor ability, bearings, cooling etc is always going to introduce limitations and problems, you can achieve the same speed with quality motors and components but at higher cost and power consumption, but all the problems are gone, so I'm not sure where you want to go with this, cheap and fast, or fast and no budget, the latter will give you the best performance and reliability the other problems and restrictions, good work though and I will be waiting to see where you go next
there are a lot of variables for sure and it depends on what you want to do. Klipper and input shaper can only compensate so much for weight. I think you want the lightest moving parts possible. Good motors and a solid frame a key for sure with accuracy.
Instead of adding a fan, you may want to just add another tube, that runs to a remote air compressor, this way you get the airflow without the weight.
this project was abandon because it is too hard to find carbon rods of a consistant OD
Nice build! I use a linear rail with no extrusion, it's plenty strong, hardened steel lol...
To those who wish to expend $$$ to make $$$ faster isn't better... put it simply, anything over 100mms in a corexy WON'T save much time vs the quality....
For learning and experimenting a fast printer, super fun and expensive if you care about your $ and time. (I've printed consistently at 300 MMS on slingers, core, and a belt printer, know what's up)
In the end if you want to engineer, tinker and play, this sht is super fun and a great learning experience! I'll reiterate SUPER FUN IF YOU GOT TIME AND $ LOL! BET!
If you are trying to start a printing business, let go of speed for consistency... promise.
Appreciate the feedback I definitely like to just build and experiment. I do want to try just a linear rail also, no extrusion. I know that works well.
@@Rolohaun I do both (build and print for fun, and $)! It's always fun to play! Now that I've figured out a few small upgrades on cheap printers print as good as anything! The advantage of rails IS NOT accuracy in fdm, but longevity... if you hobby print, forget them 100.. they do NOT make better prints... but they do last much longer without maintenance and minor issues at high miles... and I mean high miles. The average hobbyist will need to change a wheel or two every couple years. While if printing 24 7 365, rails help keep costs down over time.
Would prefer a naked MGN12 or a carbon square tube with an MGN9. In my experience the round rods and bearings have less preload especially on less precise carbon rods
That is definately what I want to test out with the concept.
What's the practical upper limit for length of a naked rail design? Would 350mm usable print length for X be impractical?
@@3dexperiments it might work, the rods come in 500mm size and are pretty ridged
They do make carbon fiber v 2020 extrusions and MGN12 that is what I used in my project
How do you think the carbon rods would resist torque from the weight of the tool head if you were to scale up the size significantly? This is really cool. Thanks!
hard to say but it would be neat to try on my 330x300 build, I have 500mm long tubes and they are pretty ridged
This is very cool!
unfortunately this idea was abandoned but you can check out it's replacement which is called Defiant.
@@Rolohaun I did, also looks cool :) Doesn't matter that it was abandoned, what you displayed here was still cool
@@t1mmy13 thank you, I appreciate it
YOU ROCK!!!!! SUPER COOL PRINTER
thanks!
I like it, do you have an idea of the build area and total machine area? Also the discord invite seems to be invalid, just fyi.
Discord link fixed, the actual printer will be 250x250 printable
I’m curious what the input shaper max speed recommendations for Y are now that its so light. Is it higher than X now?
I designed the toolhead so fast, I have no belt tensioning so the input shaper data was off. The X and Y were similar but because they is almost no weight I am going to compare with and without input shaper
what tolerances can you expect from carbon rods?
in my build Im doing forged carbon fiber, I print the molds for parts for pressed chopped carbon fiber, a simpler approach would be too make hollow parts with SLA resin then fill it in with chopped carbon fiber w/ resin
u get the precision of resin with strength of forged carbon
the rods have a +- 2mm difference, I got rods that bearings would not even fit on. They work of you order a few and hope for the best but not really great for a DIY machine
@@Rolohaun their only less than 10mm, that means its loosey goosey
Hi, amazing printer! It's amazing bro, good job and congratos for this idea, so i have a question, the carbon rods are solid? could you share the link of this rods? thanks
they are hollow, this build was canceled you can get the carbon rods on AliExpress, unfortunately they vary in OD
@@Rolohaun thanks bro for your answer, i apreciate your time! So, how do you to use 2 boards on this printer 3d? why, what is the approach? thanks
@@CristianRivas I just had two lying around and I needed more ports Klipper supports this
@@Rolohaun Hmmmm ok, so you have any tutorial/video about that? or maybe consider suggest any tutorial or doc reference for me? tranks man
@@CristianRivas here is a sample config github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/sample-multi-mcu.cfg
At higher speeds, logic says the Bambu Lab printers will get very noisy, but most interesting for your sake is if the Bambu Lab printers can print faster at the same noise level.
I have a bambu labs X1 carbon on order so I will be comparing it with the full release of this printer
@@Rolohaun I look forward to that!
I'm not persuaded there currently exists an "ideal" 3D printer that anyone has in final form (how many remain in one form throughout their lives?) or in development. If you want to just get printing, the Bambu and AnkerMake M5 seem to address those that goal as best as can be met right now. If you want to tinker instead of just get down to printing, and you want to hack them to your desires, they appear to be the wrong choice.
Year after I can print benchy on my Sovol SV07 slinger with Klipper in 25 minutes and it cost me only 220 $ new refurbrished. Times go fast. 🤷♂️😉🤓
ya this is a old printer that I never even tuned up the accel on. The project died because it was too hard to find CF rods that had a consistent diameter
@@Rolohaun But direction was right.
Are both fans pushing air onto the bed? If so, maybe it'd be better to have one pulling it out and create flow.
yes, this was a quick prototype that was discontinued, might be a cool idea to try with fans though
Hi, I also have 2 close loop motors and a a printer running Klipper, can you share your experience installing the close loop stepper motors on klipper?
Yes it was very easy as klipper does not control the stepper driver I just put in my normal x and y axis info but no stepper driver info and it worked.
Hi, interesting stuff, what is the advantage of closed loop steppers and is it a lot harder to set them up ? Thanks
closed loop steppers are quieter have less vibration and run cooler, they also do not skip steps. Easy to setup in Klipper as everything is set on the board attached to the stepper motor.
@@Rolohaun are they compatible with Marlin and if so which driver do you select in the firmware ? Thanks
@@acestu I have not tried them in Marlin they usually get setup as a A4988
@@Rolohaun Thanks Rolo, it sounds like an awesome bit of kit !
I have a question about these inside corner thingys, are they as strong as blind joints? Designing a corexy printer, trident/simplecore style. Cant use a trident frame bc the bed has 4 mounting points and is 33x31 cm. There won’t be an enclosure so the frame has to be rigid
there are solid, blind joint might be better but they should still be fine for making a frame ridged www.amazon.ca/Bracket-Connector-Aluminum-Extrusion-Profile/dp/B0794XMPG4/ref=sr_1_18?crid=UWMOGHXIH12C&keywords=2020+corner&qid=1678802448&sprefix=2020+corne%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-18
amazing, I always follow your videos and I'm interested in your projects, I hope I can make them
Appreciate it
@@bisquestudio no as this will be a separate printer
My name would be The Mini Go-Go,by the way what is that dayglo oraage filament? it is awsome and I want some!
It is prusamint petg
How did you manage to get the right clearance fit between the rods and the plastic bushings? The bushing i bought are too big for the rods i have and they jam way too easily.
I got lucky, I abandon this because the CF rods are too random
do you use any kind of lubricant on the rods? like lithium or silicone grease.
no I didn't I used Igus Drylin bearings which are self lubricating
Could you link where you got the carbon tube from? All of the tubing I have is either pulltruded or the surface finish is too rough for linear motion. Also I'm running an LGX Lite on my Voron V0 and can't recommend it enough, I get the most consistent extrusion I've ever seen out of any printer and at twice the speed. The only downside is that the torque from the tiny stepper isn't that high so I can't get more than like 21-25mm^3/s flow out of a mosquito magnum with a CHT nozzle with PLA @210C.
here is the link www.aliexpress.com/item/32822916583.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.ca613c00V8XKxT&mp=1
I had a LGX, I really liked it
What's wrong with pultruded tubes? Seems like it would be better for this since there's no torsion on the tubes. Unidirectional fiber should be stiffer for bending.
@@dekutree64 aside from the usually reduced heat resistance I can't think of anything, I was just surprised you could get woven tube with smooth outer finish like that
how do you make the build plate not fall down during shutdown? and when homing printer always seem to lower the bed first, making the bed lower into mechanical stop before homing to probe or Z_stop endswitch.
All I do is have a print end macro, when the printer finishes it runs that. it will move the z to the coordinates I specify. I know the value for the very bottom so it always moves there no endstop needed.
I wonder how accurate and reliable this is with a regular carbon fibre rod, their thickness changes a lot and they are not "Flat" or whatever the technical term for it was
it worked very well, the only problem was it's had to find CF rods with a consistent OD
@@Rolohaun oof yeah
can you share the STL's for those XY joints and toolhead I wanted to try them for something. did you ever release this version?
unfortunately I do not have the files, I never kept them as it's too hard to find carbon rods that have a precise OD for bearings to run on them
I have a set of rails from when I converted my Anet A8. What's with the attachments to the X and Y motors?
the is a old printer I never finished, it uses closed loop stepper motors
@@Rolohaun thanks for such a quick reply. "Closed loop" is a special kind of motor? Or do the electronics make a normal motor closed loop?
Are the two controllers about having 3 z-axis stepper motors?
Only if you don't have enough steppers on one board
Does anyone beside Ultimaker use the crossed rods? I’ve always been fascinated by that setup
There are some more starting to come out, This printer here is still CoreXY. I do have a printer similar to the motion of ultimaker called Defiant which is called CroXY or Cross Gantry
the only thing i would be worried about is the resin in the carbon rods would probably soften if you enclosed it.
yes it could, I abandon this project and went with a different route
@@Rolohaun ah that's too bad it looked great
What are the fixed and moving printed parts made of, PETG?
This was a fast and dirty prototype I just used PLA. I usually print petg for final builds
i had this on my voron 1.5 too about 6 years ago. but.. yeah.. too much play for me..but maybe it has improved now :)
thanks for the info! I am still testing stuff haha. Love your videos
@@Rolohaun its a very cool build you got there. have you measured any input shaping?
@@Vez3D not yet, I am designing a new printer called CarbonCore which I will be testing further.
have you name it yet and nice job
this printer is no longer being built, it is hard to find carbon rods with a consistent outer diameter. I made a cross gantry printer instead called Defiant. There will be more videos on it in the future.
@@Rolohaun ok thanks
Looks great! How about calling it CarbonCore
You called it haha I made a channel called that yesterday on my discord
@@Rolohaun haha that’s awesome!
The carbon part really do wonders I designed my printer completely out of 100% carbon fiber and get ridiculous speeds and ultra quality prints. Only drawback is the amount of money spent to make everything out of carbon fiber
Oh awesome, all carbon fiber parts would be excellent
Hi… I’m wondering how do you ensure the inner tolerance of igus bushing and carbon rod are matching/ pairing/ to make it sliding fit and don’t have too much of play or too tight
The igus bearing I leave a little loose, one the belts are tight it doesn't seem to affect print quality but more testing is needed
Typically Igus bearings have to be pressed into a hole specifically dimensioned for them. Inserting them into a properly bored mount block causes the bearing to compress to its useable diameter. Letting them run loose is not recommended and will degrade their performance and introduce slop into the mechanism.
@@rav3n595 I am late to this party, but I wonder if people still believe in this myth? If you print a tube and insert to ball bearing bussings into it, you need to allow for loose tolerances for it to run smoothly. Any use of 3D printed parts, needs to introduce sloppy tolerances, for anything to not bind. So even if you might be right on how the Igus is designed to work, that is simply not possible to achieve on any printed construction. As in, even if you use thight tolerance ball bearing bussing, and tight tolerance rods, your plastic simply cannot be printed to them tolerances. Just sort of fact that you need two rods, no matter what you do.
@@Rolohaun Did you progress on this one? How did the testing go?
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen What myth are you talking about? The OP asked a question regarding the proper use of Igus 'bushings'. My comment is based on use instructions provided by Igus. Recirculating ball type bushings are not the same as a sleeve bushing. The OP used the words 'sliding fit', which suggests he was using sleeve bushings... not ball type bushings. If he is using a ball type bushing, then all he can do is rely on the accuracy of the fit between bearing and shaft, as they are what they are. If he is using a sleeve bushing, he can adjust the fit of the bearing to shaft by changing the diameter of the hole the bushing is pressed into, achieving any fit he feels is best for the operation of the machine.
Impressive build. May I suggest you stay with this 0 cooling fan approach, and simply design another rail separate of the nozzle housing, that 1. blows in the general direction of the printer head. 2. Or moves with the printer head on a separate rail. I mean, innovation baby!
unfortunately this printer was discontinued, too hard to get carbon rods that have good tolerances
@@Rolohaun Sad to hear. Nice project tho. I might eventually buy a Voron 2.4r build kit, now that I completely upgraded the hell out of my Ender 3 classic.
May I know where you got the carbon fiber rods?
www.aliexpress.com/item/32822916583.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.5dcf1802ArxtDU
Merging this idea with the upside down Positron would be optimal.... All the weight at the bottom of the printer.. ultralight X carriage
That would be awesome
Can self lubricating bronze bushings be used instead of ıgus?
maybe, they might wear the carbon faster though
@@Rolohaun How much difference do you think to use cf rods instead of aluminium rods?Its 8x cheaper than cf rod in my country
What closed-loop motors did you used?
Mks 42c
How did this work out for you? Your Y is fairly heavy. Did you ever consider IGUS for Idlers? Or just printing idlers? Projects like these tend to end with a realization of the sloppy tolerance of the lighter rods or tubes, and then the projects tend to just die. It is a shame, because we do not get to see what we are actually missing. With some more targeted design, and just finish a real project, my bet is that the only thing missing, is light weight tight tolerance OD tubes. Printed bushings, printed idlers, and suddenly the weight is like 0. At least for a simple core-xy.
rods are wavy and not good, sanding will not help they aren't really for motion
@@Rolohaun Thanks. It is a bit confusing though. People post videos using CF in working rigs. Just like you did. Not sure what defects or flaws showed up in the prints, given the initial rage.
Also, CF tubes are not made the same. As far as I can tell you used a cross stranded version, heaven knows baked into what, and in what way. You found unreliable OD.
If there were some other factor, like the material wearing down, I don't know. But you found them not ready for motion.
Hope I got that right.
This seems to be the recurring theme, of the very few that enters this.
Thanks for sharing.
@FrodeBergetonNilsen I tried every manufacture on aliexpress I tried pulltruded also no luck
@@Rolohaun Thanks. Really appreciate the feedback.
If anything, I might make one using CF to show off what can be achieved, if just someone made a proper one. This is such a loss for the industry. Somehow Bamu labs hints at what can be done.
To me, aluminiumm rods from Igus, is the only light weight alternative to steel rods with tight tolerance I can find. Igus also make some aluminium tubes, but they are just as heavy as their 8mm rods.
If you know of anything else, please let me know.
I am working on a printer using 10 by 8 mm tubing, with not so great aluminum tubes. It might end up being a proof of concept, and the core design can easily be transformed into 8mm tubes or rods, supporting the usual suspects for bussings.
10mm OD and 8mm ID is more than enough for a decent printer.
But it is just irritating that no one produces tight tolerance CF tubes. They got everything we need, if only the price is right.
You still play with cabon? i am building square hollow carbon fiber x axis with teflon bearing. I use huge centrifugal blower mounted on the chassis for cooling.😅
Still making high pressure temperature controlled oven to make tempered carbon fiber.
oh cool, I found the carbon rods really inconstant for the OD
@@Rolohaun I need to built cnc first, got problem with precision on carbon parts.
@@Rolohaun How bad was it? The aluminum tubes I can find for cheap is like +-0,05mm. They pretty much stay within 9,9 to 10mm. But they are mostly gradually changing OD, and for each tube, it often times stay with in far less than that. The only tight tolerance tubes or rods I could find, was IGUS for aluminum rods and IGUS for aluminum tubes. The tubes are enormous. The tolerance of them IGUS Carbon tubes, are not really that tight anyways, and they are stupid expensive.
couldn't even get the bearings on some@@FrodeBergetonNilsen
@@Rolohaun They sometimes need some sanding. But did you try to measure them? What are we talking about? How inaccurate was each tube? If it is off, but constantly off, that is something we can deal with. But if it is wavy, that is another story.
hello, i have the same stepper drivers and i couldn't get them to work properly on marlin 2 firmware What settings in the firmware do you use?
I am using klipper so I just didn't put any stepper driver info in my config. I think for Marlin you need to set them as old a4988 drivers
Did you figure this out? I am just about to buy these closed loop steppers and I was planning to run them on Marlin
@@KM-yw9vr yes, I chose values for A4988
Where u buy the rods and bearings?
Igus bearings on amazon and carbon tubes on aliexpress 8mm OD x 6mm ID
I have some concers about your X axis, but otherwise i like it 🙃 love the Z and belt rollers
I have moved on from this printer it was a great learning experience though
@@Rolohaun whats new in the works?
@@RoboArc there will be a video coming out soon of my new release! stay tunned
I was given a Smart Maker Core XY printer. I have search the web. have you ever heard of this printer? Thanks Richard
I have heard if Snapmaker , look like there is a Smart Maker 3d printer but it looks like a clone of a ultimaker
1. Making a fast moving printhead is pointless if it spends sooo much time on retractions! Making havier (and therefore slower) printhead but with a motor on and therefore much faster retractions will made the printer faster.
2. I just don't catch the idea of using triple Z-axis on any printer and especially on such a small printer. Two Z motors with separated limit switches are MUCH less complicated and it does the job very well!
3. Regardging the close loop motors it is VERY interesting:
3.1. How much pricier this comparing to open loop solution?
3.2. Did you compare the speed to openloop solution?
Please make a video about closeloop. This is extremely interesting!
I agree direct drive is they way to go for the most part, however with a small enough bowden tube you can have low retractions. 3 independent z motors can automatically make the bed flat and you need 3 points to make a flat plane, klipper can do this with Z_tilt automatically. This is a prototype that I scrapped so I haven't tested close loop much yet. I will be doing more testing on newer builds. Closed loop are around $10 more or so
@@Rolohaun $10 more per each axis?
@@rmatveev you only use these on X and Y and these steppers do not need drivers so that will technically save cost as you do not need to buy steppers for X and Y
@@Rolohaun So you need these $10 twice? For X and Y?
Or $10 is the price for both X and Y?
@@rmatveev www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003380684185.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.2dd81802u0rfIj&gps-id=pcOrderListRecommend&scm=1007.38956.333894.0&scm_id=1007.38956.333894.0&scm-url=1007.38956.333894.0&pvid=58c4a624-dd65-4cfe-98aa-4c1838339ed9&_t=gps-id:pcOrderListRecommend,scm-url:1007.38956.333894.0,pvid:58c4a624-dd65-4cfe-98aa-4c1838339ed9,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21CAD%2142.03%2119.33%21%21%21%21%21%402103146f16835590951787449e5401%2112000030844109387%21rec%21CA%21143470760
If it's that fast, call it the Zefram Cochrane printer.
Is there any reason you've stopped using carbon on your projects? I always wondered why carbon fiber rods are not widely used on DIY printers.
the rods are not very round and have a bad OD, bearings do not slide well
@@Rolohaun Thanks!
Hello. Are these 8mm rods?
yes
DIY BambuLabs X1 Carbon
Printer name idea:
RoloLab Corexy Carbon
try CPAP for cooling instead, see Vez3Ds channel
Yes the full release print is getting cpap cooling
bluetape over a peiplate?
the bed is not heated on this
Hello is the Project available?
not yet, this is a very rough prototype. More videos and a release coming soon
I am looking for a long time to build a fast 3D printer and this one looks like an amazing Platform to work on also the components are pretty easy to get in comparison to other printers for now I have subscribed and I am looking forward In to this keep up the amazing work :)
@@grasu4233 thank you very much! My goal is to make easy to build printers that work well with common components. Most of this printer was made with my SimpleCore design. You can check out videos about that one on my channel and join my discord.
Hey. I thought you told me you didn't have a carbon fiber rod printer.???
I abandon this project a while ago because it didn't work well for DIY, you need to get lucky to find carbon rods with a good OD
@@Rolohaun So did you ever find a good source for the carbon fiber rods? I think it has really great potential. If not, what machine did you replace it with? Going to build one of them. What would you recommend? Thanks.
@@boztech no I did not, this printer was canceled. My panda printer is replacing this. It will be out soon
Do you share the stl files?
no unfortunately this project was discontinued
@@Rolohaun ok, thanks! Do you any project with crossXY with carbon fiber rods?
@@UniDuni3d no, the main issues is you cannot get CF rods with good tolerances they are too random and need to be machined.
Carbon cubed V1 name
Link to carbon rods please
unfortunately this printer as been discontinued, the carbon rods OD vary alot. you can find them on aliexpress
interesting project! I've been diving into all kind of printer designs for my own (yet to be built) printer. You might have heard of this guy building the VzBot: th-cam.com/video/1_YokHgagIQ/w-d-xo.html a very fast printer. You might be able to incorporate some of his solution to yours. Like the external parts cooler. I wonder how far you can push the carbon sliding parts without vibrations
This project has been discontinued as the carbon rods are to hard to get with the right tolerance
@@Rolohaun Ah thanks for the heads-up! Maybe I'll try something similar in the far future
Ah, 2022, simpler times when a 23 min benchy was 'impressive'...
yes over a year old, check out my Panda Mini printer doing 10 minute benchies :)
Bowden can't be fast... Due to wery long retractions, it's better to use input shaping to reduce ringing
I agree, I will be using the light weight Sailfin extruder on the full release printer design