Always a solid review with great explanations which is what us R/C enthusiasts are looking for in a review Without the BS - same as R/C Guy Garage you too both call it as it is - Awesome :-)
I trust Earl when it comes to these things, i have learned too much by just watching his videos on wrenching. Most of us dont have access to these tracks with all of the jumps like he does, so the shocks shouldn't be an issue if i buy this RC. I can't decide between this or the new Big Rock. The Mojave 4S appears to be the most versatile RC out right now, run time, Lipo pricing, racing, bashing, street conversions, etc.
Looks like you got it pretty well sorted out. Still not an RC I'll be picking up. Thanks for all the testing & work you're doing. Nice to see real world reviews and some longer term feedback after real word use. Cheers
Great job on the springs… I think your right about stiffening the back up a bit too. Be careful, to much and it’ll kick the rear end up every time you hit a bump or a jump..
too many dont know the difference between spring rate and what oil does for a shock. I had a viewer say the same thing about my sledge I needed thicker oil fact is if anything I need to tighten the springs a bit they are still at stock settings which is loose. It does sound a lot better as far as the body hitting yeah my outcast has a horrible body slap as well its causing bulges where the mounts are.
Hey.. I've got 2 questions . Did you still have the 2 spacers in the front in this video? And , If you did it again would you still go with the 6.2lbs up front or the 5.4lbs? Getting ready to do this and trying to make the right choice for my conditions and style. Thanks
@@-boska Sorry for the delay. His was a little stiffer than I was looking for. I went one lighter than what he was running in this vid on the front.. and I took the (original/stock but new) front springs and put them on the back.... and kept the original rear springs to double up inside, once/if the weak stock springs give up . Hope this helps.
@@GSG-lc5zmthanks mate! I ended up getting the tekno 90mm springs one at 4.8 and other 4.48. So will be interesting to see how they go. Also have 50w oil.
I am putting stiffer springs on mine when they arrive in the mail. I am also going to be running 80w oil in them. My reasoning is when you run a stiffer spring you should also run a thicker oil to slow down the dampening. That way it doesn't bounce back so quickly causing it to hop. This trucks weight with the stock setup is way too soft
i have a question sir! i can't find the measurements online for their CVD axles. Would you kindly be able to measure their difference for me between the MOJAVE 4S and OUTCAST/KRATON 4S?
If I can swap springs before putting heavier shock fluid in a shock, because I believe the shock needs to do its job, and I have also had a bad experience running super thick shock fluid where it was so stiff on a landing the rod from the shock bent. Let the shock do what it needs to do and let springs do what they do
Are those progressive rate springs? I thought spacers just adjusted ride height? If the spring isn't stiff enough to keep the chassis from bottoming out, adding spacers won't do much. It's the same weight compressing the same spring rate. Your not stiffening them by pre loading them with spacers. I'm no expert but do have a couple decades experience with preload, compression, and rebound adjustable shocks on bikes, quads, and sxs's. I've often wondered why RC cars don't get the high performance suspension options. A good piggy back or remote dual or triple rate spring would be as good for bashing a RC as it is a RZR.
All coil springs are progressive to the point of coil binding that’s why you need the rate conversion for length vs stiffness to calculate the lb you’ll get off of it more coil winding vs less coil winding that have the same ride height will act differently and with more coils can bind quicker but also stiffen the ride at the same ride height 🧐
What is the stock shock fluid weight? In terms of changing the stock oil, my philosophy is to change it if you get chassis slap. You're getting chassis slap in the rear even on minimal jumps, so that's why I'd change it. Either that or change the shock piston (inside shock) to have fewer holes or smaller holes. Now, that's what I'D DO. But if you like the way the car drives, it's YOUR car and you decide whether to tolerate chassis slap. So far, I haven't seen a TH-camr even go as far as you did. You reduced chassis slap, which in turn improved performance. In my book that gets a thumbs up.
Yes a very good job now Earl with those springs.... Ill probably be changing to those springs when mine comes on the 20 th right away dont think I'll be waiting till they fail. Thanks bro for the research on this ❤
Do you ever have issues with bmxers complaining that you’re there. There are some dirt jumps by where I live, I only try to hit the jumps if nobody is there, but I get some dirty looks when I’m driving my truck by. One dude at night came up and complained and told me to not hit the big jumps since the RCs mess up the jumps . Sounded like some BS to me.
I had one guy complain but there is no rules online or posted about who can run there I just try and be respectful and move if anyone is using the track but there will always be someone complaining 🤷🏻♂️
Put Shot limiters and doubled springs on the rear of the Seventh scale mo It's nasty With back flip l. P's. 6s From my experience you are right good Video
@@earlmoorhead5555 Thanks Earl for reply. I'm subscribed and like your channel. I'm from Uk 🇬🇧 so the weather and temps are not so much different between the cold and hot . But I don't understand that you won't change the stock fluid because you don't know which one to use. But you're happy to experiment with different spring rates. Also the temp will affect the stock fluid anyway. So when I felt my car, especially heavy Mojave, was to soft I've changed both the spring and the fluid to heavier one. I've done that to all of my cars. As you said, to suit my driving style. Looking forward for next video Earl. Thanks 👍
@sakos718 30 years of building up shocks for rc and real drag cars spring rate and valving is more important then the thicker fluid I’ve seen ppl add to there rc cars causing shock shaft to bend , and telling ppl to change fluid without knowing there set up weather and conditions they run seems silly,the rc already has a basic fluid set up and doesn’t always need an adjustment as this confuses ppl just starting out in the hobby
@@earlmoorhead5555 Correct Earl 👍. Lots of ppl adding heavy motors and ESCs and not changing their suspension to compensate the extra weight. I like when Arrma give you extra pistons in 6's series so you don't have to drill it yourself when changing fluid.
Seems like they put softer springs than they should in this particular rc , keeping cost down maybe ? It handled better on hard surface before you changed springs , but it was made for jumps, bashing so looks like you made right choice . I’d pass on this one, just my opinion. Thanks for all the testing and feedback, helps people decide on these purchases 👍
I’m with you but I picked up anyway 😂 I wanted 4 other rcs idk what I was thinking except it will stay looking new with moderate use unlike the 6s guy I beat that thing up fast and the better set up faster I break it seems . With the suspension have remembered most people don’t have places like this in USA and most people aren’t going out there way to send a sct , if I do bash it I probably get stiffer springs too or I’ll be dragging chassis across my jumps , I’ll going try just use for road I don’t have garage to keep making rc basket cases lol
@@RcPlayer-tt2vw fair enough 😊, I have a 3S Typhon , great car , lots of fun. Snapped a chassis in half already, my fault for running in the winter !!!
My son can't stop talking about this truck since you let him drive it last month! It is the only thing he wants for Christmas. Is this the best starter RC for him? Thx!!
Even 100 degree’s weather what about snow ? Weather the biggest issue with fluids can’t say that at all maybe for your areas it might be but everyone weather plays a big part in shock fluids 👌
True same with gearing I get away with higher gearing on the east coast especially with fans , shock oil just for dampening , I think arrma one of the best out of the box but on side of race performance things wear out quicker,I wonder what weight oil arrma used id say 35w also Earl I think just protocol for most when tuning shocks it’s time for oil change too but Mojave still new and should still be good ,
Yeah the issue you had earlier with the front end packing down without returning, it makes sense to try a stiffer spring first without changing oil. At the end of the video when you cycled the suspension it does look like you have enough spring now that you could go with a thicker weight oil if you wanted to slow it down...for instance if you were hitting really big jumps and getting more chassis slap than you are comfortable with, but it does seem to be working fine for you now so no real need to change it, plus I don't know if ARRMA tells you what weight they put in there to start with so it is difficult to make adjustments without knowing what the baseline is.
Looks like you got it tuned in pretty well what a difference in performance. Another kid walking away with a big smile as well pretty awesome !
Appreciate your support 💯🙏
Thanks!👊👍💯
Thanks for supporting 🏆
Always a solid review with great explanations which is what us R/C enthusiasts are looking for in a review Without the BS - same as R/C Guy Garage you too both call it as it is - Awesome :-)
Appreciate your support for this video 🙏💯
Earl.I CAN believe it's Butter.Smooth run.✌️
Appreciate your support for this video 💯🙏
Got mine coming friday thank you so much for all the testing ill be doing the springs and body post mods before i run it 👍
Thanks for the info on this truck Earl! I really appreciate it. I’m planning getting one soon. Hopefully for Christmas Lol!
That kid just made up his mind what he wants for Christmas 🎅 guaranteed! Good job Earl 👍🏻
Hopefully 🤞 😜
I trust Earl when it comes to these things, i have learned too much by just watching his videos on wrenching. Most of us dont have access to these tracks with all of the jumps like he does, so the shocks shouldn't be an issue if i buy this RC. I can't decide between this or the new Big Rock. The Mojave 4S appears to be the most versatile RC out right now, run time, Lipo pricing, racing, bashing, street conversions, etc.
Those tires sound fantastic on pavement 👍 Awesome run Earl 👌
Great video ! Thanks for the spring tips 👍
Did the post mod (works great) and will be doing the springs next. Keep up the good work!
Yes! Thank you!
Looks like you got it pretty well sorted out. Still not an RC I'll be picking up. Thanks for all the testing & work you're doing. Nice to see real world reviews and some longer term feedback after real word use.
Cheers
Great job on the springs… I think your right about stiffening the back up a bit too. Be careful, to much and it’ll kick the rear end up every time you hit a bump or a jump..
Love how that car looks when turning, braking and jumping. More realistic than the monster trucks 🙂👍
How do you feel about putting the Mojave 6S springs on this truck?
It will work but will end up with a bad hop on landing
too many dont know the difference between spring rate and what oil does for a shock. I had a viewer say the same thing about my sledge I needed thicker oil fact is if anything I need to tighten the springs a bit they are still at stock settings which is loose. It does sound a lot better as far as the body hitting yeah my outcast has a horrible body slap as well its causing bulges where the mounts are.
Hi Earl this make real sense to me :-) Got the same problem with my 4s . Which springs exactly do you have in rear ?
Looks much better with those springs. Outside perspective but it looks great
Hey.. I've got 2 questions . Did you still have the 2 spacers in the front in this video?
And , If you did it again would you still go with the 6.2lbs up front or the 5.4lbs?
Getting ready to do this and trying to make the right choice for my conditions and style.
Thanks
Hey mate, which way did you end up going? Thanks
@@-boska
Sorry for the delay.
His was a little stiffer than I was looking for.
I went one lighter than what he was running in this vid on the front.. and I took the (original/stock but new) front springs and put them on the back....
and kept the original rear springs to double up inside, once/if the weak stock springs give up .
Hope this helps.
@@GSG-lc5zmthanks mate! I ended up getting the tekno 90mm springs one at 4.8 and other 4.48. So will be interesting to see how they go. Also have 50w oil.
What did you do in terms of springs? Using any of the spacers it comes with or no?
Do you think that front bumper will work on outcast 4s v2 I'm trying to find something for more protection
I’m not sure 🤔
Smooth driving as well!!
I am putting stiffer springs on mine when they arrive in the mail. I am also going to be running 80w oil in them. My reasoning is when you run a stiffer spring you should also run a thicker oil to slow down the dampening. That way it doesn't bounce back so quickly causing it to hop. This trucks weight with the stock setup is way too soft
Love the kid and dad!
Awesome information ❤
i have a question sir! i can't find the measurements online for their CVD axles. Would you kindly be able to measure their difference for me between the MOJAVE 4S and OUTCAST/KRATON 4S?
I don’t have my outcast 4 s around it’s packed up in storage 🤷🏻♂️somewhere
Rc guy garage should have both available maybe ask him if he has time he’s been busy but might be able to help 🤷🏻♂️
@@earlmoorhead5555 thank you!
If I can swap springs before putting heavier shock fluid in a shock, because I believe the shock needs to do its job, and I have also had a bad experience running super thick shock fluid where it was so stiff on a landing the rod from the shock bent. Let the shock do what it needs to do and let springs do what they do
LMAOROTF on the kid jumping through the fence cleanly as if he ment to do it.
Are those progressive rate springs? I thought spacers just adjusted ride height? If the spring isn't stiff enough to keep the chassis from bottoming out, adding spacers won't do much. It's the same weight compressing the same spring rate. Your not stiffening them by pre loading them with spacers. I'm no expert but do have a couple decades experience with preload, compression, and rebound adjustable shocks on bikes, quads, and sxs's. I've often wondered why RC cars don't get the high performance suspension options. A good piggy back or remote dual or triple rate spring would be as good for bashing a RC as it is a RZR.
All coil springs are progressive to the point of coil binding that’s why you need the rate conversion for length vs stiffness to calculate the lb you’ll get off of it more coil winding vs less coil winding that have the same ride height will act differently and with more coils can bind quicker but also stiffen the ride at the same ride height 🧐
Man when say butter thats what i would call smooth as silk Earl thats definitely made a huge difference without any oils fluids change
If not what do you recommend
What is the stock shock fluid weight? In terms of changing the stock oil, my philosophy is to change it if you get chassis slap. You're getting chassis slap in the rear even on minimal jumps, so that's why I'd change it. Either that or change the shock piston (inside shock) to have fewer holes or smaller holes. Now, that's what I'D DO. But if you like the way the car drives, it's YOUR car and you decide whether to tolerate chassis slap. So far, I haven't seen a TH-camr even go as far as you did. You reduced chassis slap, which in turn improved performance. In my book that gets a thumbs up.
Tekno RC MT410 springs are a good fit, 0.5mm smaller on the ID tho
Yes a very good job now Earl with those springs.... Ill probably be changing to those springs when mine comes on the 20 th right away dont think I'll be waiting till they fail. Thanks bro for the research on this ❤
Do you ever have issues with bmxers complaining that you’re there. There are some dirt jumps by where I live, I only try to hit the jumps if nobody is there, but I get some dirty looks when I’m driving my truck by. One dude at night came up and complained and told me to not hit the big jumps since the RCs mess up the jumps . Sounded like some BS to me.
I had one guy complain but there is no rules online or posted about who can run there I just try and be respectful and move if anyone is using the track but there will always be someone complaining 🤷🏻♂️
Where is this bmx course located?
Ah yes a 12 lb rc car will hurt it but 130 - 185 lb people on bikes won’t. 😂
How does it corner now?
Earl on a different note r u still trying to hit -100 mph on Losi bike- u have not posted anything recently?
Put Shot limiters and doubled springs on the rear of the Seventh scale mo It's nasty With back flip l. P's.
6s From my experience you are right good Video
So earl it’s been a while, is the 4s Mojave just a 6s Mojave with a different power system?
No it’s a plastic chassis
@@earlmoorhead5555 does it feel the same to drive? Outside of the power differences, does it handle and perform similarly?
@V8chump no the feel different for sure
@@earlmoorhead5555 oh awesome! What do you recommend?
@V8chump hard to say really depends on the area you have to run and weather colder weather metal chassis better warmer plastic might be the way 🤷🏻♂️
What springs did you use?
th-cam.com/video/zRFefQj9pVU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gPyQX1ikKtyM2ulB
Good video 👌👌
Change the fluid for better dampening they usually come thin from the factory
When I'm changing spring rate to stiffer rate, I also change oil to thicker viscosity. And temperature have nothing to do with it.
Oil is stiffer in the cold and thinner in warm weather huh 🤷🏻♂️
@@earlmoorhead5555 Thanks Earl for reply. I'm subscribed and like your channel. I'm from Uk 🇬🇧 so the weather and temps are not so much different between the cold and hot . But I don't understand that you won't change the stock fluid because you don't know which one to use. But you're happy to experiment with different spring rates. Also the temp will affect the stock fluid anyway. So when I felt my car, especially heavy Mojave, was to soft I've changed both the spring and the fluid to heavier one. I've done that to all of my cars. As you said, to suit my driving style. Looking forward for next video Earl.
Thanks 👍
@sakos718 30 years of building up shocks for rc and real drag cars spring rate and valving is more important then the thicker fluid I’ve seen ppl add to there rc cars causing shock shaft to bend , and telling ppl to change fluid without knowing there set up weather and conditions they run seems silly,the rc already has a basic fluid set up and doesn’t always need an adjustment as this confuses ppl just starting out in the hobby
@@earlmoorhead5555 Correct Earl 👍. Lots of ppl adding heavy motors and ESCs and not changing their suspension to compensate the extra weight. I like when Arrma give you extra pistons in 6's series so you don't have to drill it yourself when changing fluid.
Looks much better now, nice landings.
😎💯💯💯
Seems like they put softer springs than they should in this particular rc , keeping cost down maybe ? It handled better on hard surface before you changed springs , but it was made for jumps, bashing so looks like you made right choice . I’d pass on this one, just my opinion. Thanks for all the testing and feedback, helps people decide on these purchases 👍
I would t call this one made for jumps & bashing as much as some rhythm jumps on a track. I'm with you on the pass to pick this one up
I’m with you but I picked up anyway 😂 I wanted 4 other rcs idk what I was thinking except it will stay looking new with moderate use unlike the 6s guy I beat that thing up fast and the better set up faster I break it seems . With the suspension have remembered most people don’t have places like this in USA and most people aren’t going out there way to send a sct , if I do bash it I probably get stiffer springs too or I’ll be dragging chassis across my jumps , I’ll going try just use for road I don’t have garage to keep making rc basket cases lol
Love sound of the tires , these new 4s esc are very efficient you can run smaller batteries and springs do better
@@RcPlayer-tt2vw fair enough 😊, I have a 3S Typhon , great car , lots of fun. Snapped a chassis in half already, my fault for running in the winter !!!
My son can't stop talking about this truck since you let him drive it last month! It is the only thing he wants for Christmas. Is this the best starter RC for him? Thx!!
Arrma 3s big rock is a beginner’s rc car but this Mojave will last longer
@@earlmoorhead5555 Thank you!!! Buy it nice...or buy it twice...
@@earlmoorhead5555 Is there a difference in battery packs? What do you recommend?
@@bobbitiso7173 lectron pro soft pack 5200 mah 50c rating battery is what I run hard pack will fail quickly
Like butter baby🤣😂💥
Yes non of that fake butter ( I can’t believe it’s not butter ) junk smooth real better landing there 💪😜🤣🤣
40 weight is good for all around.
Even 100 degree’s weather what about snow ? Weather the biggest issue with fluids can’t say that at all maybe for your areas it might be but everyone weather plays a big part in shock fluids 👌
True same with gearing I get away with higher gearing on the east coast especially with fans , shock oil just for dampening , I think arrma one of the best out of the box but on side of race performance things wear out quicker,I wonder what weight oil arrma used id say 35w also Earl I think just protocol for most when tuning shocks it’s time for oil change too but Mojave still new and should still be good ,
I live in Massachusetts and it's all four seasons. And yes I agree with u. I've put 40 weight in all of my rc cars and it works great for me.
Shock fluid = vegetable oil
Problem solved you're welcome
For the snow lmao 🤣
I don't see snow
Glide over the jump oooooohhhhh 🤣😂🤣😂 you know that's ALWAYS THE WAY
Best feel it to land it perfectly 👍👌💪😂😂
Holy crap guy I've got my HEADPHONES on and the BASS sounds are like I'm there boom ba boom ba boom ba boom
It was shaking the ground and still was a half mile away lmao wait till the promoto video that’s twice as loud 😯😳🤣🤣🤣
Yeah the issue you had earlier with the front end packing down without returning, it makes sense to try a stiffer spring first without changing oil. At the end of the video when you cycled the suspension it does look like you have enough spring now that you could go with a thicker weight oil if you wanted to slow it down...for instance if you were hitting really big jumps and getting more chassis slap than you are comfortable with, but it does seem to be working fine for you now so no real need to change it, plus I don't know if ARRMA tells you what weight they put in there to start with so it is difficult to make adjustments without knowing what the baseline is.