How I Digitise Large Format Negatives (Negative Lab Pro)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Here's a quick run through of the process I'm using to get my Large Format colour negatives into digital format, for further processing in Lightroom.
I'm using an LED Light Pad as a diffuse light source, and copying the negative using my digital camera. I then use a lightroom plugin called Negative Lab Pro to convert the negative into a positive.
In the introduction, I mention my previous video in which I made the photograph I'm using as an example in this video. Here's a link to that video.
• Large Format Landscape...
Also, please see the below resources if you are interested in the Negative Lab Pro lightroom plug in - it's well worth a look and a free trial is available.
www.negativela...
Thanks for watching.
Thanks Russel, verry conclusive video
Thanks! It was nice to see someone go through the entire process end to end.
Pleased you found it useful. 👍
Thank you for the idea of lifting the negative up from the light board
Yeah, that works a treat.
Intelligently concise and free of waffle. Thank you.
Thanks.
Nicely done!
I just ran across this video. I have some med-format images that I would like to digitize. This video was very helpful in moving me closer to taking on that project. Thanks.
Interesting Russell, thanks for sharing this.
No problem, thanks for your comment!
You can also set a white image on your iPad or tablet and it works the same. I just make a white page in a painting app (free).
A copy stand is really the way to go too as you can center camera perfectly over the light pad.
Someone should sell an adjustable kit with a 4x5, medium format, and 35mm holder that raises it up the right height for your screen resolution on the iPad or light pad. Maybe an app too with it to color adjust for scanning color and b&w negatives and Kodachrome vs others. I'd pay $35 for that kit.
I've tried that too. I found that the negative still needed to be raised from the surface of the screen for optimal results as otherwise you could see the pixels of the screen in parts of the image.
@@rjphotos Yes, I was no implying otherwise. Raise up. Maybe even some frosty panel over the screen too?
Could you do a review of negmaster for negative conversion? Gives me best results!
Can you tell me if you can see a difference (big or small) between a digitized print and one printed from the negative (old school ). Would it be correct to say that to fully appreciate large format film negative images is to see it printed old school way?
I’ve never printed or had a print made direct from the negative so I can’t tell you. If I was going to print old school I’d want to do it myself but I haven’t go room for a darkroom and the equipment that goes with that. To get the full experience it might be correct to say you have to print old school, but the hybrid approach still has its merits.
@@rjphotos Can you tell then me if you see a difference between a digitized negative image from your 4 X 5 and one taken with a digital camera (ff 35mm or a medium format). Thank you
There’s not much difference in all honesty, but of course you don’t get the usage experience or the camera movements that you get with LF.
That's awesome. Thank you. O have been wondering how to take advantage of the same setup you use for 35 and 120 and apply to 4x5.
Certainly works well for my needs. I may invest in a macro lens at some point. Glad you enjoyed it.
Hi! Thanks for the informative video - this is how I plan to scan my negs. I was wondering what brand negative holders you are using - the print file ones seem too snug can scratch the negatives as you try to work them in (not to mention the plastic seems to cause static and attract dust). Thanks!
I think they are by Hama. They are a similar material to tracing paper.
@@rjphotos Thank you!
Quite useful and interesting idea. How do you manage to keep the film flat with cardboards?
Some people use anti Newton ring glass and sandwich the neg. I don't. I find that depth of field from f11 covers me for any lack of flatness. The masks eliminate most of it anyway.
It looked like you had a clip to hold the negative in place on the first mask. What was it?
Hi Gary. It's just a strip of thin card taped along one edge. It holds the negative just enough to stop the top mask from shifting it when you sandwich them together. I may eventually buy a used 4x5 negative carrier from an enlarger, but this works fine for now.
What was the resulting file format after the two halfs were stitched? Tiff? Jpeg?
Lightroom creates a DNG file.
After converting in Negative Lab, can you bring the borders back? Great video. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Yes you can adjust the crop afterwards with the raw file, but if you are exporting a tif from NLP, then the crop is committed. If you need the tif and want borders, just adjust the crop to bring them back and then export.
Russell Jackson thanks!!
@@douggottlieb Just want to say that Russell was accurate when he posted this. Now you no longer have to crop the border out when doing conversions. There is a border buffer setting that ignores 5% of the image area at the border. The amount is adjustable as well.
Gregory Veizades thanks
Unfortunately I have cutt all association with Adobe.
I'm sure your pocketbook approves.
3:$4 - change to "cylindrical", this is not the "spherical" panorama.
Why don't you turn off the annoying moronic background jingle . You don't need all that crud 💩.