I just ran across this video. I have some med-format images that I would like to digitize. This video was very helpful in moving me closer to taking on that project. Thanks.
Hi! Thanks for the informative video - this is how I plan to scan my negs. I was wondering what brand negative holders you are using - the print file ones seem too snug can scratch the negatives as you try to work them in (not to mention the plastic seems to cause static and attract dust). Thanks!
You can also set a white image on your iPad or tablet and it works the same. I just make a white page in a painting app (free). A copy stand is really the way to go too as you can center camera perfectly over the light pad. Someone should sell an adjustable kit with a 4x5, medium format, and 35mm holder that raises it up the right height for your screen resolution on the iPad or light pad. Maybe an app too with it to color adjust for scanning color and b&w negatives and Kodachrome vs others. I'd pay $35 for that kit.
I've tried that too. I found that the negative still needed to be raised from the surface of the screen for optimal results as otherwise you could see the pixels of the screen in parts of the image.
Some people use anti Newton ring glass and sandwich the neg. I don't. I find that depth of field from f11 covers me for any lack of flatness. The masks eliminate most of it anyway.
Hi Gary. It's just a strip of thin card taped along one edge. It holds the negative just enough to stop the top mask from shifting it when you sandwich them together. I may eventually buy a used 4x5 negative carrier from an enlarger, but this works fine for now.
Thanks for watching. Yes you can adjust the crop afterwards with the raw file, but if you are exporting a tif from NLP, then the crop is committed. If you need the tif and want borders, just adjust the crop to bring them back and then export.
@@douggottlieb Just want to say that Russell was accurate when he posted this. Now you no longer have to crop the border out when doing conversions. There is a border buffer setting that ignores 5% of the image area at the border. The amount is adjustable as well.
Thanks Russel, verry conclusive video
Thanks! It was nice to see someone go through the entire process end to end.
Pleased you found it useful. 👍
Intelligently concise and free of waffle. Thank you.
Thanks.
Thank you for the idea of lifting the negative up from the light board
Yeah, that works a treat.
Nicely done!
I just ran across this video. I have some med-format images that I would like to digitize. This video was very helpful in moving me closer to taking on that project. Thanks.
Interesting Russell, thanks for sharing this.
No problem, thanks for your comment!
Hi! Thanks for the informative video - this is how I plan to scan my negs. I was wondering what brand negative holders you are using - the print file ones seem too snug can scratch the negatives as you try to work them in (not to mention the plastic seems to cause static and attract dust). Thanks!
I think they are by Hama. They are a similar material to tracing paper.
@@rjphotos Thank you!
You can also set a white image on your iPad or tablet and it works the same. I just make a white page in a painting app (free).
A copy stand is really the way to go too as you can center camera perfectly over the light pad.
Someone should sell an adjustable kit with a 4x5, medium format, and 35mm holder that raises it up the right height for your screen resolution on the iPad or light pad. Maybe an app too with it to color adjust for scanning color and b&w negatives and Kodachrome vs others. I'd pay $35 for that kit.
I've tried that too. I found that the negative still needed to be raised from the surface of the screen for optimal results as otherwise you could see the pixels of the screen in parts of the image.
@@rjphotos Yes, I was no implying otherwise. Raise up. Maybe even some frosty panel over the screen too?
Could you do a review of negmaster for negative conversion? Gives me best results!
That's awesome. Thank you. O have been wondering how to take advantage of the same setup you use for 35 and 120 and apply to 4x5.
Certainly works well for my needs. I may invest in a macro lens at some point. Glad you enjoyed it.
Quite useful and interesting idea. How do you manage to keep the film flat with cardboards?
Some people use anti Newton ring glass and sandwich the neg. I don't. I find that depth of field from f11 covers me for any lack of flatness. The masks eliminate most of it anyway.
It looked like you had a clip to hold the negative in place on the first mask. What was it?
Hi Gary. It's just a strip of thin card taped along one edge. It holds the negative just enough to stop the top mask from shifting it when you sandwich them together. I may eventually buy a used 4x5 negative carrier from an enlarger, but this works fine for now.
After converting in Negative Lab, can you bring the borders back? Great video. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Yes you can adjust the crop afterwards with the raw file, but if you are exporting a tif from NLP, then the crop is committed. If you need the tif and want borders, just adjust the crop to bring them back and then export.
Russell Jackson thanks!!
@@douggottlieb Just want to say that Russell was accurate when he posted this. Now you no longer have to crop the border out when doing conversions. There is a border buffer setting that ignores 5% of the image area at the border. The amount is adjustable as well.
Gregory Veizades thanks
What was the resulting file format after the two halfs were stitched? Tiff? Jpeg?
Lightroom creates a DNG file.
3:$4 - change to "cylindrical", this is not the "spherical" panorama.
Why don't you turn off the annoying moronic background jingle . You don't need all that crud 💩.
Unfortunately I have cutt all association with Adobe.
I'm sure your pocketbook approves.