Very cool, we are about to do this in July 2023, thanks for your video, it'll make this easy, and the rubber washer under the top retaining disks is a great idea too, thanks again. :)
Great tutorial. Thanks for the reminders on some of this. I have done this numerous times on my 99 A4, but the '88/89 90 Quattro suspension is a little bit different. Thanks for showing the procedures and tools. This is a great help.
Excellent visuals, superbly explained procedure with time saving tips on size variations in nuts and bolts. Real time assembly and reassembly. Tips like, gland nut tool, cartridge spacer and neoprene washer make it a very valuable video. It is doubtful whether a classroom instructor can teach in 4 hours, better than this 26.14 min video. Thanks for this ASE grade teaching.
Thanks for the great video! A couple of tips I picked up: 1) I found the sway bar linkage much easier to remove/remount with the wheels loaded (i.e. the car off the jack). 2) The tie-rod end studs were free spinning, so I used a Dremel to cut a slot in the top of them to hold using a flat-bladed screwdriver. 3) Sealey make a special tool for undoing the nut at the top of the strut stack: the Sealey SX028.
Привет! Огромное спасибо за ваши видео уроки! Вы лично мне очень помогли в ремонте моей ласточки АУДИ-80 2.0 Е 16V 137 (HP) 101 Kwt The Regard! Enormous thank you for your video lessons! You personally me much helped under repair my swallows AUDI-80 2.0 E 16V 137 (HP) 101 Kwt
Yes!! Actually i was there 3 weeks ago because i had a regatta in malaga, if you want, we can talk about it and by the way i would lile to ask you a few questions about the audi 80 supension! I will send you my phone number and could talk by WhatsApp if you want!
Like the video. A couple of tips for you viewers thought. 1. You only have to take the top caliper bolt off, and slightly loosen the bottom bolt and pull back on the brake caliper just enough to get the bottom strut bolt out. Much easier this way. 2. The bump stop actually fits into the bellows. There is a groove in the bump stop that fit in the bellows and when inserted, it becomes one piece. You can zip tie it after that, and won't crush it like in the video. Other wise, great video
pickle fork for the tie rod by far is the best tool for most pressure sleeve joint types, i own 2 90 quattro's, and did this job on both as well, i even made the special tool @ 11:00 to easily remove the gland nut out of a old tie rod end and just ground the prongs into shape on the opened end thread hole and it fit perfectly over
thanks so much for this video... I've always wanted more clarity about this process and this was a perfect tutorial... looking to replace the front shocks on my '88 90 Quatro and make sure I get it right!
Many thanks for this. A local garage has replaced my top mounts on my, 1998 Audi 2.8 Convertible.Five times ive been back because it still knocks lol.I have watched them put it together, with the spacer on top of the spring plate lol.I cant wait till monday morning.Once Many Thanks.
Very helpfull, although in my non quattro 90its mostly the same, aside from my right side spring being stuck completely compressed even when the car is lifted with a jack! Thx for the video!
3) Thanks for posting who makes the tool, ( Sealey SX028). 2) When they spin, (an easier way to do this is), I just take the tool I used to remove the tie rod ends, and reverse it to push up from the bottom. That will hold them in place, and prevent them from spinning.
Thank you for this video. Last shocks I changed were on my Karmann Ghia. I will now take my car to the mechanic to do a correct job with the right tools.
Shawn S In Vermont (U.S.A) we use so much salt on the roads, that those old air cooled cars rusted out in the rocker panels (that were also the heater ducts). They had a life expectancy of 10 years or less.
Nice, video :) it will help me in the future. Only thing is weird about this car is V6 engine... 90's mostly were 2.0 2.2 and 2.3 liter straight five...
Thanks man for great tutorial man! I've never tackled anything like this until I watched your video! Everything worked great, except I have a rubbing noise coming from pass side brakes. Going to take wheel off and perhaps re-seat the caliper later today. I'm sure it's an easy fix! Take it easy, and keep up the good work!
Thank you for the great video I just changed the front struts, stabelizer links and tie rods, everything that's been changed seem fine, however, my streering has been clicking/clucking when I go straight and turn. It clicks more when I am going straight and let it cruise then when I hit the gas, but if I am taking a turn and hit the gas, then it clicks more, any idea as to what it might be? ball joint, axles, or steering wheel? It don't think it shakes, it just clucks
Thanks for the video. I have an Audi 90 from 1991. There was a big noise when I was turning or steering the car. I thought it was the mount strut so I replaced it. But after I replacing it, the noise was still there and after watching this video I'm thinking maybe it's missing the spacer or it needs to be replaced. Do You know where to find it?
Hi, I've changed the strut mounts countless times over the years but there's always this noticable rattle/bump coming from the struts. Is it just my car or is it something with this particular Audi design that's half-thought out?
I'm not saying this necessarily is what happened, but I have seen this before. Sometimes when people lower their cars, they mix up, and put the front springs on the rear, and the rear springs on the front. Is your car look like it is sloping down towards the front of the car? If so? Rotate the front springs to the rear, and the rears to the front. In short the front & rear springs are two different heights, and lowering springs come as a set of four. If this doesn't help, just comment back.
Hi there, I own an Audi 80 B3 that's been making a clunking clanking noise in the front right, I'm pretty sure about that. I've changed almost every suspension bushing and mount, hoping I'd eventually stumble upon the source of the noise, but the car is still making the noises, even louder recently. I even replaced the strut mount/bearing and the noise persists. Could this be caused by a bad shock?
sir the rattle noise is not because the metal cup is hitting the chassy. its because the rubber top mount and bearing fail within 3 months and make the rattle. if tou have rattle something is not correct. althou great video
Hi! I have a 1990 Audi 90. Im really glad I found this video! I will be doing this for the first time and I'm not mechanically savvy. Can I get a list of the tools you've used in this video? I'd appreciate it greatly c:
Do you remember, from what car is the shock absorber guard used in 19 minets in your film. I want to use these shock absorber guards in my audi 80. Thanks
It sounds to me like the shock is stuck down in the fully loaded position (if I'm understanding you're comment correctly)!? Yep, that could be a bit of a problem. But there is a solution for this. Use a portapower press. If need be, I can make a short video for you, of how this is done. Let me know...=) Thanks.
Thank You very much!!! Then I will try to do it. I have a old original VW Audi spring compressor wich have hooks in one end and a disc in the other, I hope it will fit. If I buy the tool to undo the bolt (Sealey SX028) Then I have all I need? Thanks: Jens
Is it possible to replace the struts without removing the whole strut assembly? It can be done this way on a 1995 A6. Or is the design of the 90 very different?
Hey a=man, I don't know if you are still active, but what do you use to hold the whole strut assembly when you are compressing the springs and taking out the strut? I think having that would be useful to have when doing this
Hi, i've been replacing the dampers on my '92 Audi 80, on one side I got the drop links for the stabiliser bar off just fine, on the other side the bolts are spinning round and round, there's not slot on the back of the link like other cars i've worked on and I can't get my head round how to hold the ball joint still to get the nut off, i've not got an impact wrench which might help in this situation but i've scrubbed all the rust off the threads and given them a good spray with wd40, any tips?
Hello! Thanks for your video! I have Audi 80 B4 2.6 and today I found out I can't do my wheel alignment properly because when I jacked up the front of my car, all my strut is loose because of the stupid original rubber washers that manufacturers put on. I thought that some parts are missing on the top that's why I thought it causes the problem. But after I watched this video you opened my eyes that the actual washer is broken. I didn't quite understand what should I fit instead on the top part of my strut to make sure I won't have any free movement again?
Jonas 80 Neoprene washers, I did give you all the information you need, in this video...If you watch it again!? You will see every thing you need to know, and everything else...
VTSPQR It's ok. I actually started watching it again and at the same time you left the message :) Everything went fine. My strut bearings were destroyed and I successfully replaced them. However my front right wheel still is making terrible noise, it sounds like it has a flat tyre (like bom bom bom bom bom) but I bought the brand new tyres and also did a wheel alignment. But it is still making that noise. I double checked my top strut mount and it is not sitting well properly. I am sure I now have to replace my shock absorber. And your video is really helpful for that job.
VTSPQR my cap is not sitting in properly and I put the new bearing on, I am it is the problem with the shock absorber and that's what makes the noise I took a picture but not sure how to send it to you..
Hi, really useful video. I have 2 questions: Did you leave the oil inside that tube where you drop new shock? And if yes, then why :) ? Does it help in anything? thanks
Marcin Wojciechowski The reason there is oil in the shock housing is to dissipate heat from the shock absorber. For the average driver, the oil is not necessary. I don't wast my time, removing, or adding oil.
Thank You very much for making this great video!!!! But I need to ask You, do You know if everything will be the same on my Audi 80 2.0 from 94?? Thanks!
I have a 1988 audi 90 quattro could you give me some help on replacing my front struts. Similar design but the strut bushings at the top i cannot find anywere
Isn't there a 7MM hex at the top of the strut that must be held in place in order to get the top nut off of the strut? I've seen another video where they take a pipe wrench to their 22MM socket and turn it while holding the hex in place with an allen key.
The 7mm Allen on the top of the shock, has nothing to do with assembly, or dis-assembly. There is a way to change the dampening on the shock by turning it one way or the other. If you are so inclined?, there will be instructions supplied in the box of the shock. I frankly never change that setting.
Everyone on youtube manages to undo the nut with a pipe wrench and I had to cut this nut open with a dremmel to get it off. In the manual it says to torque it doiwn to 110 ft lbs, there is no way I can get it this tight.
Agree on that one. Audi makes great engines but V6 is not the best product of theirs... Anyway thanks for the video man, im planing to buying baby like this only straight five engine one. After 6 months it will be mine. Gonna me my first car :)
Thanks so much can now replace the strut on my Audi 80. though I have a problem with the brake system, its faint however much I try replacing the pads and brake piston rubber seals please help.
Very cool, we are about to do this in July 2023, thanks for your video, it'll make this easy, and the rubber washer under the top retaining disks is a great idea too, thanks again. :)
Brilliant video. Thanks
Great tutorial. Thanks for the reminders on some of this. I have done this numerous times on my 99 A4, but the '88/89 90 Quattro suspension is a little bit different. Thanks for showing the procedures and tools. This is a great help.
Excellent visuals, superbly explained procedure with time saving tips on size variations in nuts and bolts. Real time assembly and reassembly. Tips like, gland nut tool, cartridge spacer and neoprene washer make it a very valuable video. It is doubtful whether a classroom instructor can teach in 4 hours, better than this 26.14 min video. Thanks for this ASE grade teaching.
Thanks for the great video!
A couple of tips I picked up:
1) I found the sway bar linkage much easier to remove/remount with the wheels loaded (i.e. the car off the jack).
2) The tie-rod end studs were free spinning, so I used a Dremel to cut a slot in the top of them to hold using a flat-bladed screwdriver.
3) Sealey make a special tool for undoing the nut at the top of the strut stack: the Sealey SX028.
Привет! Огромное спасибо за ваши видео уроки! Вы лично мне очень помогли в ремонте моей ласточки АУДИ-80 2.0 Е 16V 137 (HP) 101 Kwt
The Regard! Enormous thank you for your video lessons! You personally me much helped under repair my swallows AUDI-80 2.0 E 16V 137 (HP) 101 Kwt
you have no idea how helpful is this video to me for my '81 Passat
Front shocks changed ! It went perfectly smooth and your video was an invaluable help ! :-D
I'll do the rears ones next week-end.
Thanks again.
1992, and later, all 90's in the U.S. market were V6's. The five cylinders were the best. =)
Thank you very much! You helped me a lot! Regards from Spain, just fixed my dads Audi 80 1.8E!!!
I'm glad it helped....thanks for watching. Do you know anything about Caminito del Rey, I want to go there someday?!
Yes!! Actually i was there 3 weeks ago because i had a regatta in malaga, if you want, we can talk about it and by the way i would lile to ask you a few questions about the audi 80 supension! I will send you my phone number and could talk by WhatsApp if you want!
Like the video. A couple of tips for you viewers thought. 1. You only have to take the top caliper bolt off, and slightly loosen the bottom bolt and pull back on the brake caliper just enough to get the bottom strut bolt out. Much easier this way. 2. The bump stop actually fits into the bellows. There is a groove in the bump stop that fit in the bellows and when inserted, it becomes one piece. You can zip tie it after that, and won't crush it like in the video. Other wise, great video
pickle fork for the tie rod by far is the best tool for most pressure sleeve joint types, i own 2 90 quattro's, and did this job on both as well, i even made the special tool @ 11:00 to easily remove the gland nut out of a old tie rod end and just ground the prongs into shape on the opened end thread hole and it fit perfectly over
Excellent vid chap!!! Helped me out no end with my 1994 80 sport!
thanks so much for this video... I've always wanted more clarity about this process and this was a perfect tutorial... looking to replace the front shocks on my '88 90 Quatro and make sure I get it right!
Many thanks for this. A local garage has replaced my top mounts on my, 1998 Audi 2.8 Convertible.Five times ive been back because it still knocks lol.I have watched them put it together, with the spacer on top of the spring plate lol.I cant wait till monday morning.Once Many Thanks.
Very helpfull, although in my non quattro 90its mostly the same, aside from my right side spring being stuck completely compressed even when the car is lifted with a jack! Thx for the video!
I learned so much.....Thank You For sharing your knowledge....Great Video.
Great video. I will do this to my Audi Cabriolet 1991 soon. It looks like it will be almost the same job. Thanks a lot!
Excellent, love your systematic approach and good practice- really hard to find support for these models today, cheers
What size is that special tool in mm?
3) Thanks for posting who makes the tool, ( Sealey SX028).
2) When they spin, (an easier way to do this is), I just take the tool I used to remove the tie rod ends, and reverse it to push up from the bottom. That will hold them in place, and prevent them from spinning.
Thanks, this gave me an idea on how to put lowering springs on my Coupe Quattro
the tool is a Pittman arm remover to most gear box .... but looks like it worked good for a tie rod end stud nice
Thanks a lot for this video. I am going to change the shocks of my audi 80 2.0E and this video is really an excellent job !
Great Video, thank you for taking the time to put together. Excellent job!!!!
Thank you for this video. Last shocks I changed were on my Karmann Ghia. I will now take my car to the mechanic to do a correct job with the right tools.
I haven't seen a Karmann Ghia since the 1980's.
Mine was a 72 and i bought it in the eighties. That era between crappy old car and valuable classic.
Shawn S
In Vermont (U.S.A) we use so much salt on the roads, that those old air cooled cars rusted out in the rocker panels (that were also the heater ducts). They had a life expectancy of 10 years or less.
Make sure the shock spacers under the gland nuts are installed, and other than that, make sure the gland nuts are very tight. That's my best guess.
Nice, video :) it will help me in the future. Only thing is weird about this car is V6 engine... 90's mostly were 2.0 2.2 and 2.3 liter straight five...
Thanks man for great tutorial man! I've never tackled anything like this until I watched your video! Everything worked great, except I have a rubbing noise coming from pass side brakes. Going to take wheel off and perhaps re-seat the caliper later today. I'm sure it's an easy fix! Take it easy, and keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching!
Check, make sure the Backing Plate isn't rubbing on the Rotor. That is most likely the rubbing sound you are hearing.
Excellent visuals man
Best Regards
Thank you for the great video
I just changed the front struts, stabelizer links and tie rods, everything that's been changed seem fine, however, my streering has been clicking/clucking when I go straight and turn. It clicks more when I am going straight and let it cruise then when I hit the gas, but if I am taking a turn and hit the gas, then it clicks more, any idea as to what it might be? ball joint, axles, or steering wheel? It don't think it shakes, it just clucks
Thanks for the video.
I have an Audi 90 from 1991.
There was a big noise when I was turning or steering the car. I thought it was the mount strut so I replaced it. But after I replacing it, the noise was still there and after watching this video I'm thinking maybe it's missing the spacer or it needs to be replaced. Do You know where to find it?
What kind of noise? Also make sure you don't have a broken spring.
I checked that as well, the spring is ok. But its a rumbling noise.
Hi, I've changed the strut mounts countless times over the years but there's always this noticable rattle/bump coming from the struts. Is it just my car or is it something with this particular Audi design that's half-thought out?
I'm not saying this necessarily is what happened, but I have seen this before. Sometimes when people lower their cars, they mix up, and put the front springs on the rear, and the rear springs on the front. Is your car look like it is sloping down towards the front of the car? If so? Rotate the front springs to the rear, and the rears to the front. In short the front & rear springs are two different heights, and lowering springs come as a set of four. If this doesn't help, just comment back.
Hi there, I own an Audi 80 B3 that's been making a clunking clanking noise in the front right, I'm pretty sure about that. I've changed almost every suspension bushing and mount, hoping I'd eventually stumble upon the source of the noise, but the car is still making the noises, even louder recently. I even replaced the strut mount/bearing and the noise persists. Could this be caused by a bad shock?
sir the rattle noise is not because the metal cup is hitting the chassy. its because the rubber top mount and bearing fail within 3 months and make the rattle. if tou have rattle something is not correct. althou great video
Hi! I have a 1990 Audi 90. Im really glad I found this video! I will be doing this for the first time and I'm not mechanically savvy. Can I get a list of the tools you've used in this video? I'd appreciate it greatly c:
Do you remember, from what car is the shock absorber guard used in 19 minets in your film. I want to use these shock absorber guards in my audi 80. Thanks
No I don't. My parts person sourced them from some where.
Very nice VIdeo thank you so much !
Thank you friend. Excellent video. Will be very useful for my Audi.
It sounds to me like the shock is stuck down in the fully loaded position (if I'm understanding you're comment correctly)!? Yep, that could be a bit of a problem. But there is a solution for this. Use a portapower press. If need be, I can make a short video for you, of how this is done. Let me know...=) Thanks.
Thank You very much!!!
Then I will try to do it.
I have a old original VW Audi spring compressor wich have hooks in one end and a disc in the other, I hope it will fit.
If I buy the tool to undo the bolt (Sealey SX028) Then I have all I need?
Thanks: Jens
I'm glad it helped & thanks for watching.
Great video dude
I'm glad that this video helped you. Thanks for you're comment. =)
Is it possible to replace the struts without removing the whole strut assembly? It can be done this way on a 1995 A6. Or is the design of the 90 very different?
what I should do if my strut doesn't wanna move out of the housing?
Clamp the shinny part of the shock in a big vice with the nut screwed on, and then pound on the spring perch with a big hammer. That always works.
Thanks a lot I'll try that
Hello...what are the tightening torques of nuts shock?
Hey a=man, I don't know if you are still active, but what do you use to hold the whole strut assembly when you are compressing the springs and taking out the strut? I think having that would be useful to have when doing this
Thanks for the explanation, it helped me a lot.
Thank you for you're comment. I appreciate that. =)
Thank You very much for making this great video.. its exactly what I needed to fix my car.. thanks again...
Thank you, all the best, you helped me a lot
I'm glad I could help...=)
Hi, i've been replacing the dampers on my '92 Audi 80, on one side I got the drop links for the stabiliser bar off just fine, on the other side the bolts are spinning round and round, there's not slot on the back of the link like other cars i've worked on and I can't get my head round how to hold the ball joint still to get the nut off, i've not got an impact wrench which might help in this situation but i've scrubbed all the rust off the threads and given them a good spray with wd40, any tips?
Hello! Thanks for your video! I have Audi 80 B4 2.6 and today I found out I can't do my wheel alignment properly because when I jacked up the front of my car, all my strut is loose because of the stupid original rubber washers that manufacturers put on.
I thought that some parts are missing on the top that's why I thought it causes the problem. But after I watched this video you opened my eyes that the actual washer is broken.
I didn't quite understand what should I fit instead on the top part of my strut to make sure I won't have any free movement again?
At 22:30 I gave the dimensions, of the neoprene washer, and where to put it...Oh, and you can aline you're car without doing this
VTSPQR Thanks for your help!
Jonas 80 Neoprene washers, I did give you all the information you need, in this video...If you watch it again!? You will see every thing you need to know, and everything else...
VTSPQR It's ok. I actually started watching it again and at the same time you left the message :)
Everything went fine. My strut bearings were destroyed and I successfully replaced them. However my front right wheel still is making terrible noise, it sounds like it has a flat tyre (like bom bom bom bom bom) but I bought the brand new tyres and also did a wheel alignment. But it is still making that noise. I double checked my top strut mount and it is not sitting well properly.
I am sure I now have to replace my shock absorber. And your video is really helpful for that job.
VTSPQR my cap is not sitting in properly and I put the new bearing on, I am it is the problem with the shock absorber and that's what makes the noise
I took a picture but not sure how to send it to you..
Thanks for watching, and I'm glad it helps. =) Good luck on your project. =)
Great vid. Thanks for posting.
Hi, really useful video. I have 2 questions:
Did you leave the oil inside that tube where you drop new shock? And if yes, then why :) ? Does it help in anything?
thanks
Marcin Wojciechowski The reason there is oil in the shock housing is to dissipate heat from the shock absorber. For the average driver, the oil is not necessary. I don't wast my time, removing, or adding oil.
VTSPQR Thanks for the info. I'm planing to change shocks in my Audi 80 - so its good to know that ;)
Thanks again.
Cheers :)
Thank You very much for making this great video!!!!
But I need to ask You, do You know if everything will be the same on my Audi 80 2.0 from 94??
Thanks!
I have a 1988 audi 90 quattro could you give me some help on replacing my front struts. Similar design but the strut bushings at the top i cannot find anywere
Try Blauparts.
Thanks for posting where the tool can be acquired. Thumbs up on your comment. =)
Isn't there a 7MM hex at the top of the strut that must be held in place in order to get the top nut off of the strut? I've seen another video where they take a pipe wrench to their 22MM socket and turn it while holding the hex in place with an allen key.
The 7mm Allen on the top of the shock, has nothing to do with assembly, or dis-assembly. There is a way to change the dampening on the shock by turning it one way or the other. If you are so inclined?, there will be instructions supplied in the box of the shock. I frankly never change that setting.
No. Only on the 5000's, 100's, 200's, and A6's you can replace the shocks without removing the strut Assembly.
Thanks for clarifying that.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for commenting...=)
Everyone on youtube manages to undo the nut with a pipe wrench and I had to cut this nut open with a dremmel to get it off. In the manual it says to torque it doiwn to 110 ft lbs, there is no way I can get it this tight.
This has helped for me to do my 1997 cabriolet rather than book in
The rear springs are the shorter of the two. just count the number of coils.
Nice video, now I hope that I can do it :)
When I make videos. It's comments like yours, that make it all worth wile...Thank you...=)
NICE BEARD.. mine is SANTA CLAUS READY...LOL
```
BUT ITS GONNA BE LONG GONE BEFOR IM IN THE WIND...AND SOON
Have fun with your project...=)
Agree on that one. Audi makes great engines but V6 is not the best product of theirs... Anyway thanks for the video man, im planing to buying baby like this only straight five engine one. After 6 months it will be mine. Gonna me my first car :)
Thanks so much can now replace the strut on my Audi 80. though I have a problem with the brake system, its faint however much I try replacing the pads and brake piston rubber seals please help.
Thanks for watching, and rating. =)
It should be almost identical.
A way different set up than on my 5000 CS Turbo
Where to get the neopreme washers..
At a really good, and fully stocked Hardware Store. Or you could Google them too, (I gave the measurements in the video).
P.S, they are about 1/8" thick. I don't think I mentioned that.
Thank u, I would look for them tomorrow at a local hardware store..
Thank you very much. =)
Hey thanx...=) You should keep your beard of wisdom, IT'S awesome!!!
Thanks. =) =) & good luck, next week end. =)
Thank you. =)
Thanks...=)
HELLO! YOU BEST THANK YOU