Nice Job! Can´t wait to see more content with the fixture plate! I always enjoy watching your videos as they are made really well and they are pretty informative! Keep it up!
@@JBWorx I have alot of projects in the pipeline for my CNC machine and the vise will would be really helpful. Thanks for sharing and this I feel with the vise is going to be my first project
Make sure you think about the hole pattern (distance) for your mounting plate. It has a big impact on the versatility. I also have info to that on my website if you like. www.jbworxstudio.com/copy-of-switches
Nicely done! Also really like the SMW mod vice system. For locating the plate reliably I can recommend the bushings and locating pins Norelem sells. This enables locating the plate very accuratly without the risk of overconstraining and result in bending/warping the plate.
Yes these are very nice. And you are correct the plate is over constrained I thought I could only get 2 shoulder bolts to engage and was totally surprised that all 4 went in. For real day to day shop production a steel plate with hardened bushings is the tool to have. However for hobby or light careful low production I think this will do.
I'm about to make of these myself. In my case, through holes wouldn't help because it'll be sitting flat on a granite slab. I"m going to use blind holes because I don't want chips or coolant to get between the two over time, but yes, I expect getting the chips out to be a pain. Also, making the very first fixture plate where nothing exists below it yet other than a granite surface plate presents several Catch-22 issue. Once this one's out of the way, making smaller ones like you have here will be much easier.
Yes, once you have the initial one down life gets much easier. Also consider some plugs for the holes. You can buy them or print them yourself. They work great !
Love the plate. I have downloaded your design and ordered the plate in the dimension shown in the drawing (+2mm for me to face up) I noticed the drawing and in the video here you say 8.8mm hole for a M10 bolt. In my Engineers black book it shows the minor diameter for a Course M10x1.50 being 8.2mm and a fine M10x1.25 being 8.5mm. It looks like you picked a special pitch M10x1.00 which is 8.8mm, is that correct?
This video was made a while back and I scratched my head for a second as I know that the diameter I use for M10 is 8.6mm. Then I remembered that I wanted a loose fit for the thread so that it will not interfere with the locating function of the shoulder bolt. And that worked out great 👍. Hope that makes sense.
Also before you make the plate hole pattern think through in what direction it will go on your machine and if my offset pattern makes sense in that direction. Or if a regular pattern is best for you.
Nice Job. I like the way you present and explain the things you do 👍 I made a metric version of the SMW Mod Vise some time ago out of 7075. Added Mitee Bite clamps to it and that really works like a charm. Looking forward to see how you are going to adapt their design to your needs. Regarding the fixture plate, could you possibly further improve the flatness by taking another 0.1mm off, when the plate is actually fixed to the table? And lastly about the shoulder bolts. Did you make them yourself, or are they a purchase item? If so, where do you get them?
Thank you! Yes Mitee Bites are laying on my bench already defiantly will use them. I am undecided on the material. Maybe free machining steel but I will have to get some tooling for that as well. Most likely 7075 as you used as well. I think 0.02mm is a awesome result. To get the best possible flatness A) keep the tool down throughout the entire facing operation no up movement. B) There is some variation in the tape so like you mentioned stewing it down in its final position and facing it again can yield a better result. I think I got lucky. The shoulder bolts (in this case) I bought from McMaster Carr please check out my website the project is uploaded and there are details and also a drawing in the download section … for free lol 😂
What sort of surfacing bit did you use for this. Im struggling to find a solution. On my mill id use a fly cutter but I dont want that spinning at 18,000 RPM :)
Yes a fly cutter is not the right tool for a cnc router because of the imbalance causing vibration and the large diameter will result in insanely high surface speed values. So I have a indexable end mill made by Accusize that you can find on Amazon. However I did turn down the shaft to fit into my collet. I am making a video on 2 different surfacing Tools that I use quite a bit. Also with inserts… stay tuned.
Great video could you please do a video on uses for the fixture plate. I understand you can clamp things down to it and put a mod vice on it. I am assuming there are more uses than just those. Seems like people that have a fixture plate really likes them but I am just not seeing the uses. Seems like a beneficial video for alot of machinists.
Thank you for the request David I will add it to the list. In short the main advantage for me is alignment and availability of clamping holes. It is great to put small pallets on for different parts you make and also can hold vacuum pucks. You can also put spacers down on it and clamp a part down from the outside or use through holes in the part and the threads in the plate. Really the main feature is versatility and alignment. All of the above you can somehow do also on a regular table. I have a write up on my webpage why you would want a fixture plate. Check it out … www.jbworxstudio.com/copy-of-switches
Given that you machined this elevated on tape how can you be sure that the surfaces are running parallel? Wouldnt you first need to machine flat a surface then put that machined surface on a known flat surface and machine the unmachined surface from there? I didnt see you do that so not sure how you got both the surfaces true to eachother.
They don’t need to be. The resting surface for the part is machined as a set (so holding a piece) at the same time making them perfectly level to each other. This step is done once the vice is machined. And yes you are correct the tape will always allow for some variation in dimension.
Oops I just see this is for the plate not for the vice my bad the former response is not 100% accurate then. So yes you are correct, the tape introduces a variation in the flatness / parallel top to bottom. How much ? Hard to say I did measure the plate using a micrometer and was happy with the result but I don’t remember the variation from top of my head.
Nice job! That's a clean way to put the plates together, with the precision shoulder engaging both. Thanks for the idea. I have the SMW plate on my Taig. The thing I can't stand about it is the diamond shaped hole pattern, rather than a square grid. There never seems to be a hole where I need it, its always a row off. I'm surprised you kept yours a diamond since you were making it from scratch.
Hmmm that is interesting. My machine table is 50x50 and a bit far apart for a vice set up. The slots in the vice would need to be too long in the movable jaw. This one is 30x30. I hope I will like it …
@@JBWorx Thank you I appreciate your prompt response. I love that you have a KAPEX to cut your stock. I have one too and I am still getting used to it.
Could you have drilled the the through holes to rough them out before boring with the end mill? Or does the spindle loose too much torque at the rpm needed to do that?
I did that for the plate on the machine table. My experience is you can drill 6mm diameter however the deeper you go the more unreliable this process becomes. Even 4mm kept me on my toes last time. The bore function and a single flute works so much better and is reliable.
I bought several of these over the years for machines that I sold. Lately I order from Amazon there is a Huanyang store and you get an authentic one. Also I buy the 3 year warranty with it. If the runout or something else is not to your liking you can just send it back.
Amazing video and content! I notice you have a straight grid pattern on your bed and the new fixture plate has an offset pattern. I'm about to make the bed on my machine and had been planning to go with a straight grid. Could you offer any insight on the advantages/disadvantages to them? Which have you found that you prefer?
For the machine bed itself I like the straight grit pattern. This way you can go with a larger distance to the next hole. For the vice plate I have not found an issue using the alternating pattern as it is closer together. The vice slots will always accommodate for any width material. However one comment (Nick) stated that he dislikes the alternating pattern. So again, for the machine table … go with a straight line.
@@JBWorx Thank you for that insight and pointing out Nick's comment. I was actually afraid of what he mentioned with wanting to use the offset row, but there not being a hole. Thanks again for taking the time making these videos and engaging in the comments section.
Another great video, thank you! I may be just a nerd, but I want to see more "uncut" videos with tool change processes. I'm always curious how automated it is or isn't.
Thank you, interesting enough I had one tool change in the video and also how I made the test cut for the thread and the perfect fit for the shoulder bolt. It was too long of a video and I cut these sections out. I will keep your request in mind for the next one.
Certainly, I hit this one from Amazon it’s made by Accusize and comes in a set of 3 different geometries. Just check that the shaft diameter fits your spindle.
@@JBWorx thank you for the quick answer! I couldn't find it in the (german) Amazon, did it possibly have any particular name or was it just under Accusize face mill?
It’s a set of 3 end mills. Here a link. www.amazon.com/AccusizeTools-Degree-Little-Hogger-0046-0700/dp/B00HSRD1K4/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=3ISBM7CSFVOWD&keywords=accusize+end+mill+set&qid=1666502193&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMS43NyIsInFzcCI6IjEuODQifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=accusize+endmill+%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-7
@@JBWorx Thank you for your quick response, yes I was indeed wondering if it was Teflon and figured that the tape would not stick well to it. What tape do you use btw?
It is this set I bought, but note that I turned the shaft down to fit my spindle. Accusize Industrial Tools 3 Pc Little Hogger End Mill Set, 45 Deg, 90 Deg and 3/16r Mill with 3/4'' Shank, 1'' Head, 0046-0700 a.co/d/5clVaCp
Lovely work but I have a lazy mans question, why no just drill and tap the holes you ned for the next work? Most of the holes may not ever be used anyway! Kind regards/Stefan
… I see your point. But the good thing about a CNC is that ‘you’ don’t have to drill and tap a single one 😀😀. Also getting everything back into alignment later might not be quite as simple and fast.
Love seeing someone running the proper speeds and feeds coupled with a coolant system
Thanks!!
Nice Job! Can´t wait to see more content with the fixture plate! I always enjoy watching your videos as they are made really well and they are pretty informative! Keep it up!
Thank you David! Geht immer viel Zeit drauf bei dem TH-cam Kram … aber macht auch Spaß.
Excellent tolerancing. Great information and advice as always.
Thank you Gerrit !!!
I always enjoy watching your videos
And thanks again
Perfect 👍
Such a nice project, I really want to make one of these myself
The plate and the vise go hand in hand. It’s a bit of a bigger project but worth building as you can use it for all sorts of things.
@@JBWorx I have alot of projects in the pipeline for my CNC machine and the vise will would be really helpful.
Thanks for sharing and this I feel with the vise is going to be my first project
Make sure you think about the hole pattern (distance) for your mounting plate. It has a big impact on the versatility. I also have info to that on my website if you like. www.jbworxstudio.com/copy-of-switches
@@JBWorx that is something that I have been wondering about, thanks for the link I really appreciate it
Good luck on your built
excellent work!!!
Thank you appreciate your feedback !
I love the content man, keep it up
Thank you Joseph
Nicely done! Also really like the SMW mod vice system. For locating the plate reliably I can recommend the bushings and locating pins Norelem sells. This enables locating the plate very accuratly without the risk of overconstraining and result in bending/warping the plate.
Yes these are very nice. And you are correct the plate is over constrained I thought I could only get 2 shoulder bolts to engage and was totally surprised that all 4 went in. For real day to day shop production a steel plate with hardened bushings is the tool to have. However for hobby or light careful low production I think this will do.
Came out really nice! 👍🏼
Thank you ! I think so too
I'm about to make of these myself. In my case, through holes wouldn't help because it'll be sitting flat on a granite slab. I"m going to use blind holes because I don't want chips or coolant to get between the two over time, but yes, I expect getting the chips out to be a pain. Also, making the very first fixture plate where nothing exists below it yet other than a granite surface plate presents several Catch-22 issue. Once this one's out of the way, making smaller ones like you have here will be much easier.
Yes, once you have the initial one down life gets much easier. Also consider some plugs for the holes. You can buy them or print them yourself. They work great !
Clean work as always 🤩
Thank you 🙏
Nice plate! Are you using denatured alcohol for your coolant?
Yes I typically do for Al for steel I use a water based coolant or just cut dry.
Love the plate. I have downloaded your design and ordered the plate in the dimension shown in the drawing (+2mm for me to face up)
I noticed the drawing and in the video here you say 8.8mm hole for a M10 bolt. In my Engineers black book it shows the minor diameter for a Course M10x1.50 being 8.2mm and a fine M10x1.25 being 8.5mm. It looks like you picked a special pitch M10x1.00 which is 8.8mm, is that correct?
This video was made a while back and I scratched my head for a second as I know that the diameter I use for M10 is 8.6mm. Then I remembered that I wanted a loose fit for the thread so that it will not interfere with the locating function of the shoulder bolt. And that worked out great 👍. Hope that makes sense.
Also before you make the plate hole pattern think through in what direction it will go on your machine and if my offset pattern makes sense in that direction. Or if a regular pattern is best for you.
Nice Job. I like the way you present and explain the things you do 👍
I made a metric version of the SMW Mod Vise some time ago out of 7075. Added Mitee Bite clamps to it and that really works like a charm. Looking forward to see how you are going to adapt their design to your needs.
Regarding the fixture plate, could you possibly further improve the flatness by taking another 0.1mm off, when the plate is actually fixed to the table?
And lastly about the shoulder bolts. Did you make them yourself, or are they a purchase item? If so, where do you get them?
Thank you! Yes Mitee Bites are laying on my bench already defiantly will use them. I am undecided on the material. Maybe free machining steel but I will have to get some tooling for that as well. Most likely 7075 as you used as well. I think 0.02mm is a awesome result. To get the best possible flatness A) keep the tool down throughout the entire facing operation no up movement. B) There is some variation in the tape so like you mentioned stewing it down in its final position and facing it again can yield a better result. I think I got lucky.
The shoulder bolts (in this case) I bought from McMaster Carr please check out my website the project is uploaded and there are details and also a drawing in the download section … for free lol 😂
Very clean work no chatter, What is the thickness of your machine left and right column?
About One inch (23mm exactly). I think the weak spot is the gantry itself.
What sort of surfacing bit did you use for this. Im struggling to find a solution. On my mill id use a fly cutter but I dont want that spinning at 18,000 RPM :)
Yes a fly cutter is not the right tool for a cnc router because of the imbalance causing vibration and the large diameter will result in insanely high surface speed values. So I have a indexable end mill made by Accusize that you can find on Amazon. However I did turn down the shaft to fit into my collet. I am making a video on 2 different surfacing Tools that I use quite a bit. Also with inserts… stay tuned.
Great video could you please do a video on uses for the fixture plate. I understand you can clamp things down to it and put a mod vice on it. I am assuming there are more uses than just those. Seems like people that have a fixture plate really likes them but I am just not seeing the uses. Seems like a beneficial video for alot of machinists.
Thank you for the request David I will add it to the list. In short the main advantage for me is alignment and availability of clamping holes. It is great to put small pallets on for different parts you make and also can hold vacuum pucks. You can also put spacers down on it and clamp a part down from the outside or use through holes in the part and the threads in the plate. Really the main feature is versatility and alignment. All of the above you can somehow do also on a regular table. I have a write up on my webpage why you would want a fixture plate. Check it out …
www.jbworxstudio.com/copy-of-switches
Given that you machined this elevated on tape how can you be sure that the surfaces are running parallel? Wouldnt you first need to machine flat a surface then put that machined surface on a known flat surface and machine the unmachined surface from there? I didnt see you do that so not sure how you got both the surfaces true to eachother.
They don’t need to be. The resting surface for the part is machined as a set (so holding a piece) at the same time making them perfectly level to each other. This step is done once the vice is machined. And yes you are correct the tape will always allow for some variation in dimension.
Oops I just see this is for the plate not for the vice my bad the former response is not 100% accurate then. So yes you are correct, the tape introduces a variation in the flatness / parallel top to bottom. How much ? Hard to say I did measure the plate using a micrometer and was happy with the result but I don’t remember the variation from top of my head.
when will we see an ATC? I think it will be an amazing addition to this otherwise great machine, they are expensive tho..
Been eyeballing one for a while now. My goal is to get to 1000 subscribers … Thats been a long road though
Great videos. I am interested in what facing tool you are using?
It’s made by Accusize and available on Amazon in a set of 3 end-mills. I had to turn down the shaft to fit my spindle.
Nice job! That's a clean way to put the plates together, with the precision shoulder engaging both. Thanks for the idea. I have the SMW plate on my Taig. The thing I can't stand about it is the diamond shaped hole pattern, rather than a square grid. There never seems to be a hole where I need it, its always a row off. I'm surprised you kept yours a diamond since you were making it from scratch.
Hmmm that is interesting. My machine table is 50x50 and a bit far apart for a vice set up. The slots in the vice would need to be too long in the movable jaw. This one is 30x30. I hope I will like it …
very nice, what type of super glue are you using?
I use Starbond medium black. Not every accelerator works with it so it would be best to use theirs.
@@JBWorx Thank you I appreciate your prompt response. I love that you have a KAPEX to cut your stock. I have one too and I am still getting used to it.
I think it’s awesome to cut aluminum. I also use the same blade to cut plastic / Delrin and I am very happy with it.
Could you have drilled the the through holes to rough them out before boring with the end mill? Or does the spindle loose too much torque at the rpm needed to do that?
I did that for the plate on the machine table. My experience is you can drill 6mm diameter however the deeper you go the more unreliable this process becomes. Even 4mm kept me on my toes last time. The bore function and a single flute works so much better and is reliable.
What spindle are you using?
It is the 2.2kW Huanyang water cooled 3 bearing 2Pole spindle.
@@JBWorx Thank you!
👍
@@JBWorx do you mind sharing where you got it from? Amazon?
I bought several of these over the years for machines that I sold. Lately I order from Amazon there is a Huanyang store and you get an authentic one. Also I buy the 3 year warranty with it. If the runout or something else is not to your liking you can just send it back.
Amazing video and content! I notice you have a straight grid pattern on your bed and the new fixture plate has an offset pattern. I'm about to make the bed on my machine and had been planning to go with a straight grid. Could you offer any insight on the advantages/disadvantages to them? Which have you found that you prefer?
For the machine bed itself I like the straight grit pattern. This way you can go with a larger distance to the next hole. For the vice plate I have not found an issue using the alternating pattern as it is closer together. The vice slots will always accommodate for any width material. However one comment (Nick) stated that he dislikes the alternating pattern. So again, for the machine table … go with a straight line.
@@JBWorx Thank you for that insight and pointing out Nick's comment. I was actually afraid of what he mentioned with wanting to use the offset row, but there not being a hole. Thanks again for taking the time making these videos and engaging in the comments section.
@@BrandonS350 thank you for commenting it shows me that people actually really watching my videos 😆
Another great video, thank you! I may be just a nerd, but I want to see more "uncut" videos with tool change processes. I'm always curious how automated it is or isn't.
Thank you, interesting enough I had one tool change in the video and also how I made the test cut for the thread and the perfect fit for the shoulder bolt. It was too long of a video and I cut these sections out. I will keep your request in mind for the next one.
wonderful video, thanks for sharing!
may I ask where you ordered that insert planing end mill? Would love to get myself one of those too!
Certainly, I hit this one from Amazon it’s made by Accusize and comes in a set of 3 different geometries. Just check that the shaft diameter fits your spindle.
@@JBWorx thank you for the quick answer! I couldn't find it in the (german) Amazon, did it possibly have any particular name or was it just under Accusize face mill?
It’s a set of 3 end mills. Here a link.
www.amazon.com/AccusizeTools-Degree-Little-Hogger-0046-0700/dp/B00HSRD1K4/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=3ISBM7CSFVOWD&keywords=accusize+end+mill+set&qid=1666502193&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMS43NyIsInFzcCI6IjEuODQifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=accusize+endmill+%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-7
@@JBWorx thank you!!
No problem glad to help
Nice work! What was that facing tool at the start? Thank you. 😊
It’s a cheap indexable endmill from accuzise. You can find it on Amazon it comes in a set. It’s not super but the price is right 😎
What's the white material you use to offset the workpiece? Is it teflon?
It is Delrin an industrial plastic (Acetal). I like it because the tape sticks to it. Teflon is rather soft and tape does not stick to it.
@@JBWorx Thank you for your quick response, yes I was indeed wondering if it was Teflon and figured that the tape would not stick well to it. What tape do you use btw?
I like the green and orange version it’s for rough surfaces or with “extra” adhesion. I think it’s by 3M, most home improvement stores carry it.
Nice Video What facing tool is that ?
Wow many people asking about that. It’s made by Accusize sold on Amazon.
@@JBWorx do you have a link or part number TX
It is this set I bought, but note that I turned the shaft down to fit my spindle. Accusize Industrial Tools 3 Pc Little Hogger End Mill Set, 45 Deg, 90 Deg and 3/16r Mill with 3/4'' Shank, 1'' Head, 0046-0700 a.co/d/5clVaCp
Real cool, what was the first tool you used for surfacing?
It’s a endmill made by accusize you find it in Amazon. Make sure the shaft fits into your spindle.
Lovely work! I’m about to buy the same set but from WEN and I have a similar spindle, what rpm were you running at?
This tool is 25mm in diameter and I usually run around 10,000 rpm
hi, great video. what tool is that?
Hmm not sure what tool you mean.
@@JBWorx the one in 1:10
Ok I see. Wow many requests for that tool. It is made by Accusize and available on Amazon. Just double check the shaft dimension.
What kind of paste?
Paste? Maybe you mean the glue? It is CA Glue or superglue.
Lovely work but I have a lazy mans question, why no just drill and tap the holes you ned for the next work?
Most of the holes may not ever be used anyway!
Kind regards/Stefan
… I see your point. But the good thing about a CNC is that ‘you’ don’t have to drill and tap a single one 😀😀. Also getting everything back into alignment later might not be quite as simple and fast.
But the table itself is a fixture plate though!
Yes correct but the spacing is a bit far apart and the thickness of the plate could be bigger.
>>> SUBSCRIBED
👌
I'm sure people would rather hear machinihg than shitty music
Some might
Cheat on Z heights.. When does that ever work out good. Lol.
I think only if you run one tool in one OP lol. Otherwise everything gets screwed up. Good catch !