I just replaced the alternator on our 2008 Odyssey yesterday. A couple of pointers for anyone following your video: I found that removing the power steering fluid reservoir and the windshield washer fluid bottle gave me quite a bit more room to work with. Not necessary, but much easier. You do not need to remove the belt tensioner. Once loose, lift the alternator straight up an inch or so, then rotate the alternator slightly counter clockwise so the bottom mounting bracket can pass between the tensioner pulley and the rubber part of the ac line. You kind of have to force it past the ac line but it is flexible enough to do so. Removing the power steering reservoir means you will have to drain it using a siphon pump of some kind, then refill it and bleed the system of air, but that is easy to do. If your alternator is covered in oil, then look for an oil leak right above it below and to the left of the dipstick. If you have a leak there, there are two gaskets that need to be replaced in the VTC solenoid or you will replace your alternator again very soon. That fix costs about 20 bucks and is much easier than replacing the alternator again and again.
Thank you for posting this, I just replaced on my 2010 Odyssey which was not operational due to bad alternator. By far the most challenging project I have tried on any of my vehicles.......but I got it done and it can be done. I watched your video several times as I worked on this, could not have done it without your information so thanks and well done!
Thanks. I just had to pull my alternator after 194K. It was a pain to remove. I had to go back and watch your 'twist and flip' at the end a couple of times, but I did what you did and it came out pretty easy. Great video!
Thank you so much for this video. One note: a fine-tooth ratcheting breaker bar helps tremendously for the serpentine belt tensioner. My Matco one is over 2 feet long, worked great with a 19mm deep socket. It was almost $200 so I understand it may not be financially viable for some people, but I use it so much and love it to death. It also helps to break free bolts and crankshaft pulleys, check for seized engines, etc.
The lower wire is the AC clutch wire. That wire was fastened to the back side of my alternator, a condition that no one else seems to have had. (I have watched numberous TH-cam videos on this procedure.) I was unaware of this, and the wire broke at the connector. I have had to purchase another replacement connector (Ebay) with a pigtail so I can continue this project. Just a heads-up for others who may have this same problem.
You need to loosen the big bolt from the tensioner so that it's not hard to move the tensioner. But you have to tighten the bolt back after you put the belt back on.
In my case I had to loosen the 4 bolts from the AC Compressor(not removed) mounting to the engine block, to get the Alternator out. I couldn't get by the AC hoses otherwise.
This description of how to loosen the belt is misleading, do not follow that, learn about tensioner pulley instead. do not over wrench the 19mm nut on the tensioner, you will break it. INSTEAD, apply steady force while pulling the belt off the pulley at the same time.
Rewatching this after I finished replacing mine last night. I think I spent +20min trying to get it out after I had gotten it off the motor. And another 20min wiggling in the new one.
I feel like the AC line is gonna break if we yank it out too hard. It is such a bitch. Someone should make a smaller alternator. Why can't they make one small when computer chips are getting smaller and smaller.
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I just replaced the alternator on our 2008 Odyssey yesterday. A couple of pointers for anyone following your video: I found that removing the power steering fluid reservoir and the windshield washer fluid bottle gave me quite a bit more room to work with. Not necessary, but much easier. You do not need to remove the belt tensioner. Once loose, lift the alternator straight up an inch or so, then rotate the alternator slightly counter clockwise so the bottom mounting bracket can pass between the tensioner pulley and the rubber part of the ac line. You kind of have to force it past the ac line but it is flexible enough to do so. Removing the power steering reservoir means you will have to drain it using a siphon pump of some kind, then refill it and bleed the system of air, but that is easy to do. If your alternator is covered in oil, then look for an oil leak right above it below and to the left of the dipstick. If you have a leak there, there are two gaskets that need to be replaced in the VTC solenoid or you will replace your alternator again very soon. That fix costs about 20 bucks and is much easier than replacing the alternator again and again.
Thank you so much. That leak is probably what killed my alternator on 2010 odyssey. Anything else we need to change?
@@asifiqbal2 not that I recall.
Doing this today. Same leak right into the alt....
Thank you for posting this, I just replaced on my 2010 Odyssey which was not operational due to bad alternator. By far the most challenging project I have tried on any of my vehicles.......but I got it done and it can be done. I watched your video several times as I worked on this, could not have done it without your information so thanks and well done!
Yes i also think it was a tough job, but we got it done.
Thanks. I just had to pull my alternator after 194K. It was a pain to remove. I had to go back and watch your 'twist and flip' at the end a couple of times, but I did what you did and it came out pretty easy. Great video!
Thank you so much for this video.
One note: a fine-tooth ratcheting breaker bar helps tremendously for the serpentine belt tensioner. My Matco one is over 2 feet long, worked great with a 19mm deep socket. It was almost $200 so I understand it may not be financially viable for some people, but I use it so much and love it to death.
It also helps to break free bolts and crankshaft pulleys, check for seized engines, etc.
What a pain in the arse that was to take out (talking about me)! Thank you, you helped a first timer who is not mechanically inclined😁
The lower wire is the AC clutch wire. That wire was fastened to the back side of my alternator, a condition that no one else seems to have had. (I have watched numberous TH-cam videos on this procedure.) I was unaware of this, and the wire broke at the connector. I have had to purchase another replacement connector (Ebay) with a pigtail so I can continue this project. Just a heads-up for others who may have this same problem.
Thanks man for leaving in the struggles you had with it, more real that way. 👍🏻
😂😂😂 the random dbs music I love it
Thank you for posting this
You need to loosen the big bolt from the tensioner so that it's not hard to move the tensioner. But you have to tighten the bolt back after you put the belt back on.
Thank you for your time and effort. Very much appreciated!
np
Tankyou they help me alat tankyou
In my case I had to loosen the 4 bolts from the AC Compressor(not removed) mounting to the engine block, to get the Alternator out. I couldn't get by the AC hoses otherwise.
The worst alternator replacement EVER! F that part placement!!!!! But did it.
6:50......19mm socket?
This description of how to loosen the belt is misleading, do not follow that, learn about tensioner pulley instead. do not over wrench the 19mm nut on the tensioner, you will break it. INSTEAD, apply steady force while pulling the belt off the pulley at the same time.
Rewatching this after I finished replacing mine last night. I think I spent +20min trying to get it out after I had gotten it off the motor.
And another 20min wiggling in the new one.
Bet you just happy you got it back into the car.
I feel like the AC line is gonna break if we yank it out too hard. It is such a bitch. Someone should make a smaller alternator. Why can't they make one small when computer chips are getting smaller and smaller.
Not see you take the old alternator out / not see u put the new one in, lie
Either you did not watch the whole video or your comment made him edit the video and add it in after you initially watched