Lots of good advice as always, Peter. I remember working in a retail camera and photo finishing store back in the late '70s and going over all the tips a regular customer could use to take sharper photos; a problem for this client (and a group of his friends who came with him to ask) because all had Parkinson's disease to varying degrees. We talked about using higher shutter speeds, tripods and, for some situations, flash to freeze the action. As I get a bit older, I'm noticing I need a bit faster shutter speeds to help keep my images sharp as well. Olympus IBIS is certainly a welcome friend when I'm doing street photography or anything spontaneous with a telephoto!
Thank you again, Peter. Every time I think I know all there is about your subject, you throw in an idea I had not thought about. This time it was about the AF light.
Yes but in the days of film, we didn't blow our images up on a 24 inch monitor to check them in minute detail. Maybe we occasionally had a 10 x 8 print made but more generally 6 x 4, so we never noticed a slight amount of blur or "unsharpness"
@@cmartin_ok I scanned films with my favorite photographs and when I enlarged them on 24" 4K monitor I could not find any place which could be considered sharp as I accustomed to see on images taken by modern digital camera.
Thank you, Peter. I haven't watched your channel for long. But because of your inspiring videos, I bought the EM 1 Mark iii today. You are one of the few who talk about feelings when taking pictures or choosing a camera . Let's be honest. Technology is often an excuse to buy new gear :-) Most of the time we want to capture a feeling or a mood.Thanks for this view. Greets from Switzerland.
I also couldn't not resist. First, I started to use handheld HiRes (I usually resize to 16MP in post production) for landscape, flowers. And 4K movie handheld is much better due to better stabilization than on mark 2. th-cam.com/video/uMyeWMjyygo/w-d-xo.html just probe video.
Good basic tips that everyone should know, Peter. A couple of comments: the AF illuminator is just a blinding red LED I think. I wish it was infrared because then it'd be invisible and subtle! Also, Robin Wong advises against using the touch screen for focusing and instead move the focus point. Something about native focus points have contrast+PDAF ability, whereas only contrast detect is used when you use the touch screen.
Some great tips Peter. I will certainly be working on the "Stopping Down" a little more. I'm too quick to open up my lens and not use more ISO instead to get a faster shutter speed. Your videos always give me confidence to try new things and improve, thank you.
Hello Peter ..Thankyou for your guidance. I in the past had some 4/3 Olympus cameras and always enjoyed the equipment. The majority of my equipment is Nikon DSLR . I pondered the question DSLR and or Mirrorless ??I decided to revisit Olympus Mico 4/3 and I am glad that I choose the system. Presently within the Mirrorless world, I am learning as each day goes by! With that said you are my instructor and I am glad I located you on TH-cam! Peter thank you !!
With the Olympus EM5 series and above, I believe you can set a minimum shutter speed along with your Auto ISO, which is a good thing for street shooting. You can then set it to 1/250 or better yet 1/320 sec and eliminate most normal motion blur. Of course you may want to bump it up for faster action, close at hand. This way you can use Aperture Priority mode and the camera will not automatically get you into a too slow shutter speed. For those of us with the EM10 mark II or Pen PL-8 say, using the Shutter Priority for street may be the safest bet, as you can NOT set a minimum shutter speed along with the Auto ISO setting. Something Olympus did wrong of course. My most basic Nikon D3500, $400 camera, has a setting for minimum shutter speed in the ISO settings, though it is rather basic ( can only select the 1/250 or 1/500 and not 1/320 ) but it is still useful. I don't shoot a lot of bird shots with a long lens, but if the shutter speeds did get up into the 1,000th of a sec or higher range, would it not be wise to switch off the IBS? -Loren lorenschwiderski.smugmug.com/
Is that wind or noise from nearby traffic? I like to be creative sometimes, but most times a sharp picture is needed. You don’t want blurry images, if your subject needs to be sharp; that is a miss. Great tips! I’ve been practicing using a faster shutter speeds and using continuous mode to get the sharper image.
Hi Peter, Thanks for your advices...always great values. You could also mention ICM (Intentional Camera Movement) to illustrate the no-need of being always 100% sharp 😁.
Thanks Peter! As I started denoise all images in Topaz Denoise AI I turn Off sharpening in Lr because Topaz does it much better as well noise reduction. Topaz does not apply blind mathematical algorithm like sharpening mask convolution rather discovers true details and textures by mean of neural networking and emphasizes them. Together with Topaz denoise AI PRO grade primes produce extremely sharp images I've never seen before in my practice with Nikkor best prime lenses. I did photographs with 17 mm f/1.2 and relatively small crops of them are quite good and have enough resolution to print 15 per 10 cm prints. Example: photos.app.goo.gl/oBvGkj7HTomCNz7N6
Peter (Off topic) Peter: I watch all your videos (well almost all😀) and try to make notes for things I think I might need. In one video you were talking about MF mode, with AUTO ISO. Someone proposed a method by which exposure compensation could be attained. My memory is that you said you hadn't tried that but you planned to. I can't find my notes, nor can I find the video where it came up. Any chance you remember where the reference is? Thank you
Hyperfocal range is an appropriate method to get the largest DoF and the numerical distance values. Unfortunately only few lenses have focus clutch with real analog focusing, most without DoF scale and a very crude distance scale. And unfortunately the DoF is not indicated on the screen or in the EVF! P.S. the one/two third rule is only one of the dumb....
A while ago, I went out and purposely took what I call SOOF (straight out of focus) shots. Iwas just looking for colors and how they merged in the natural world. Sometimes, everybody is so taken up on the sharpness thing. I enjoy shooting film now and then and it has that grainy look that I like. www.flickr.com/photos/98163474@N04/33351202411/in/dateposted/
![Mastering Exposure - [5 Tips to Get the Right EXPOSURE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/33LPaj2rYhw/mqdefault.jpg)
Lots of good advice as always, Peter.
I remember working in a retail camera and photo finishing store back in the late '70s and going over all the tips a regular customer could use to take sharper photos; a problem for this client (and a group of his friends who came with him to ask) because all had Parkinson's disease to varying degrees. We talked about using higher shutter speeds, tripods and, for some situations, flash to freeze the action. As I get a bit older, I'm noticing I need a bit faster shutter speeds to help keep my images sharp as well. Olympus IBIS is certainly a welcome friend when I'm doing street photography or anything spontaneous with a telephoto!
Thank you Peter. I cant wait to try out your tips!
Don't go away I'm learning lots.
I am not going anywhere.
Thank you again, Peter. Every time I think I know all there is about your subject, you throw in an idea I had not thought about. This time it was about the AF light.
Great to hear.
Being from a full manual era, it amazes me always how good the automation of modern cameras has become.
Yes but in the days of film, we didn't blow our images up on a 24 inch monitor to check them in minute detail. Maybe we occasionally had a 10 x 8 print made but more generally 6 x 4, so we never noticed a slight amount of blur or "unsharpness"
@@cmartin_ok I scanned films with my favorite photographs and when I enlarged them on 24" 4K monitor I could not find any place which could be considered sharp as I accustomed to see on images taken by modern digital camera.
Thank you, Peter. I haven't watched your channel for long. But because of your inspiring videos, I bought the EM 1 Mark iii today. You are one of the few who talk about feelings when taking pictures or choosing a camera . Let's be honest. Technology is often an excuse to buy new gear :-) Most of the time we want to capture a feeling or a mood.Thanks for this view. Greets from Switzerland.
Great to hear. How does the E-M1 MKIII feel? I know technology is a good excuse!
@@ForsgardPeter I switched from EM 10 to EM 1. The jump is big but a lot of fun. The menu is huge and almost overwhelms me.
@@69horatioh Actually, the menu appeared simplified in comparison with E-M1-II and I don't find some useful settings in button assignment part.
I also couldn't not resist. First, I started to use handheld HiRes (I usually resize to 16MP in post production) for landscape, flowers. And 4K movie handheld is much better due to better stabilization than on mark 2. th-cam.com/video/uMyeWMjyygo/w-d-xo.html just probe video.
Thanks Peter for continuing to offer us helpful videos that inform us and are interesting!
Thanks and glad you like them!
Good basic tips that everyone should know, Peter. A couple of comments: the AF illuminator is just a blinding red LED I think. I wish it was infrared because then it'd be invisible and subtle! Also, Robin Wong advises against using the touch screen for focusing and instead move the focus point. Something about native focus points have contrast+PDAF ability, whereas only contrast detect is used when you use the touch screen.
yes you are right, the AF illuminator is just a led light. Pretty silly from me that I said it to be an infrared light . :D
Thank you again Peter ; these videos are the best set that I have seen and used to develop my knowledge
Thank you!
Some great tips Peter. I will certainly be working on the "Stopping Down" a little more. I'm too quick to open up my lens and not use more ISO instead to get a faster shutter speed. Your videos always give me confidence to try new things and improve, thank you.
Thanks Mike. Photography is also about experimenting.
Really interesting. Thank you. How do you ‘stop down’?
Making the aperture smaller form f2.8 to f4 for example.
Now I understand what you mean!
Thanks a lot for this video and your useful tips. Much appreciated...
Glad it was helpful!
Hello Peter ..Thankyou for your guidance. I in the past had some 4/3 Olympus cameras and always enjoyed the equipment. The majority of my equipment is Nikon DSLR . I pondered the question DSLR and or Mirrorless ??I decided to revisit Olympus Mico 4/3 and I am glad that I choose the system. Presently within the Mirrorless world, I am learning as each day goes by! With that said you are my instructor and I am glad I located you on TH-cam! Peter thank you !!
Thanks for the nice words! Always makes my day!
Hello Peter. Very good... thanks.
Many thanks!
Thanks for reminding about the sharpen mask in LR. One really good software is Topaz AI Sharpen
With the Olympus EM5 series and above, I believe you can set a minimum shutter speed along with your Auto ISO, which is a good thing for street shooting. You can then set it to 1/250 or better yet 1/320 sec and eliminate most normal motion blur. Of course you may want to bump it up for faster action, close at hand. This way you can use Aperture Priority mode and the camera will not automatically get you into a too slow shutter speed. For those of us with the EM10 mark II or Pen PL-8 say, using the Shutter Priority for street may be the safest bet, as you can NOT set a minimum shutter speed along with the Auto ISO setting. Something Olympus did wrong of course. My most basic Nikon D3500, $400 camera, has a setting for minimum shutter speed in the ISO settings, though it is rather basic ( can only select the 1/250 or 1/500 and not 1/320 ) but it is still useful.
I don't shoot a lot of bird shots with a long lens, but if the shutter speeds did get up into the 1,000th of a sec or higher range, would it not be wise to switch off the IBS? -Loren lorenschwiderski.smugmug.com/
I have heard that about fast shutter speeds and IBIS, but have never really tested if there is any difference in IQ.
Is that wind or noise from nearby traffic? I like to be creative sometimes, but most times a sharp picture is needed. You don’t want blurry images, if your subject needs to be sharp; that is a miss. Great tips! I’ve been practicing using a faster shutter speeds and using continuous mode to get the sharper image.
Near by traffic. I could not remove it completely. Thanks.
Hi Peter,
Thanks for your advices...always great values.
You could also mention ICM (Intentional Camera Movement) to illustrate the no-need of being always 100% sharp 😁.
That is true. ICM is an interesting way to do motion blur.
great tips thanks Peter.
Thanks. Glad you find then useful.
Thanks Peter! As I started denoise all images in Topaz Denoise AI I turn Off sharpening in Lr because Topaz does it much better as well noise reduction. Topaz does not apply blind mathematical algorithm like sharpening mask convolution rather discovers true details and textures by mean of neural networking and emphasizes them. Together with Topaz denoise AI PRO grade primes produce extremely sharp images I've never seen before in my practice with Nikkor best prime lenses. I did photographs with 17 mm f/1.2 and relatively small crops of them are quite good and have enough resolution to print 15 per 10 cm prints. Example: photos.app.goo.gl/oBvGkj7HTomCNz7N6
Very good and informative video !!
Thank you very much.
You should do a collaboration with Beyond the Press .
Thanks for the tip, I will look into that channel.
Peter (Off topic) Peter: I watch all your videos (well almost all😀) and try to make notes for things I think I might need.
In one video you were talking about MF mode, with AUTO ISO. Someone proposed a method by which exposure compensation could be attained. My memory is that you said you hadn't tried that but you planned to.
I can't find my notes, nor can I find the video where it came up.
Any chance you remember where the reference is?
Thank you
Hyperfocal range is an appropriate method to get the largest DoF and the numerical distance values. Unfortunately only few lenses have focus clutch with real analog focusing, most without DoF scale and a very crude distance scale.
And unfortunately the DoF is not indicated on the screen or in the EVF!
P.S. the one/two third rule is only one of the dumb....
It looks like you have picked a new approach to color grading the field shots. I prefer the approach you have taken in previous videos.
I did try something new, but I am not sure myself either. Thanks for the feedback.
A while ago, I went out and purposely took what I call SOOF (straight out of focus) shots. Iwas just looking for colors and how they merged in the natural world. Sometimes, everybody is so taken up on the sharpness thing. I enjoy shooting film now and then and it has that grainy look that I like.
www.flickr.com/photos/98163474@N04/33351202411/in/dateposted/
Nice. That is exactly what I was talking about. Your colorfull image had a bit different feeling than my images on the video.
Very easy. Don’t buy into MFT. Then all is sharp and no noise at ISO 200 :) LOL
Thanks for the tip on Lightroom.
Happy to help!
is this video "in focus"?
There is part where it is not quite.
Unfortunately spolt by background noise
Yes, it was a pity that I did not managed to remove all the noise that came from the near by highway.
A six minute add ? really ? sorry no thanks .
Really? Need to check if there is away to control that. Six minute ad is way too long. You can skip it if you want after a few seconds.
@@ForsgardPeter I have done just that , I do understand the need for ads but gee wizz.
Thanks Peter