I contacted XYZPrinting support for help with the printer cutting into the tape. They gave me the link to this video! This video is a lifesaver! It helped me start printing again. I am going to try the adjustments shown in the video to tweak the printer performance. My DaVinci Jr. printer also came with a table that was not level .It's a shame that XYZPrinting has to refer me to an independent video to solve a problem that seems to be in many of their printers. At least they referred me to a great video!
All your help and advice is greatly appreciated, here in sunny south africa 3d printing is very new with limited printer choice. Picked up a da vinci 1.0A (lucky well behaved) getting great prints.
Just had this printer as a gift and noticed the issue thanks for the video. This fixed the first model that I made with supports having a major pla backup that created the first cm with bad quality.
Thanks for your video Chuck. If I may: I took a different route to adjust the bed. I found the bed tape was being cut into at max X while the feed gears clicked and scraped, and at min X the filament did not stick. The adjustment ability is awful - there is no travel in those adjustment screws anyway except for normal screw-hole clearance. I unscrewed the base plat glass clips, removed the glass, unscrewed and removed the metal glass holder, then shimmed under the metal plate with aluminium foil. It was a bit tedious having to disassemble and reassemble about 4 times, but I got a pretty level base plat in the end - immune to x-axis droop.
I enjoyed your video, I have this machine and never had any problem with it. I now have the da vinci 1.0 pro and I think your video will help me level the bed on this one. I like it because I can use other filaments with it.
Those 2 screws are round hole with no play. I took the head assembly plate out of the printer and rounded out those holes in the direction it needed to move. I used a 2.5" hard drive as my gauge and was able to level it. I apricate your video on getting in the right direction.
I ran into this problem right after getting the printer. The unit right out of the box dug right into the masking tape and made a horrible clicking sound. Thankfully it worked regardless and the sample still printed (though it was a PITA to get off, and it ruined the tape). Despite doing their x-axis adjustment it is still off, so I decided to put a shim under the left side of the glass to boost it up where it is parallel with the head. My z-axis is much higher than yours though, 1.3 leaves no room under my head. I had to leave it at 1.85mm to leave enough room.
Your frustration for setting the da Vinci Jr. v1 is palpable, Chuck. Frankly, I *wish* my problem was as easy to fix as yours. I got through the first filament spool perfectly, but when I put the second one in (about 5 days later), the quality just tanked on one side - the right side that just feels so floaty. I'm not sure if it was because the extruder axis sagged on that side or the print bed itself sagged. I've tried to do so much to fix it. I've put plastic wedges (8.58mm wide, within the crippled capacity of the printer to make it) to try and lift the metal rod away from the gray bracket that holds the entire train. I've had to throw the Z offset *literal millimetres at a time*. I'm currently down to 0.9mm, and I've wasted about 50m in test prints and purges/wipe lines and unloading and loading the filament spool and deep-cleaning the nozzle and _oh my god it is a huuuge pain._ And I'm not sure if it's because the machine decided to have this conniption on December 22, but as of writing, XYZp support haven't gotten back to me. It's coming up to the New Year, so maybe I won't hold it against them. The funny part is that I also can't do the "put the power brick on the bed and rest the Z-axis on it" method their video says to do. The machine is _really_ temperamental about whether or not it'll let you jog the print head more than a few millimetres (sometimes, sometimes not). But my problem comes from the fact that the cord they gave me that connects the brick to the mains supply is *only a foot long* - by the time I get the brick in the printer, the printer's dead. I've had to use my _Halo 3_ steelbook (completely ruined the finish on it). And the print is still really threadbare in places, blobby in others, and sometimes there's nothing but knocking from the extruder. Maybe it'll work tomorrow. Between your channel and Maker's Muse, I'll be busting with ideas. Maybe I'll print a hammer so I can smash the eff-ing thing to bits.
Just to make sure I understand (I, too have the bed calibration issue), you bottomed out the carriage by loosening the two T10 screws and then adjusted the right side with the screwdriver?
I have one more question for you...the screws that hold the belt tension spring assemblies in place...should these screw be tight to the point where they are effectively stopping the spring from moving, or should they be loose enough to allow the spring to expand as the belt gets looser over time? I ask because both of the screws on the x and y axis on my Jr were clamped down tight, and I'm not sure if I should loosen them a bit to allow the spring to be the only thing effecting the tension, or if I should leave them tight and only loosen them to let the spring change tension when it seems like the bel needs to be adjusted? Thank you again for your help!!
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products Thanks! XYZ actually got back to me quickly on this one. They said I should PUSH the part with my hand to create the tension, then tighten it down with the screw. I've been doing a bit of reading, and it seems that the springs might actually be there only to help with manufacturing so that the bits get themselves roughly into place during assembly.
May I inquire real quick, as to the quality of the Sample Vase built into the Da Vinci Junior? I bought that printer a few days ago, and it's been awesome after a few minor tweaks. But I've noticed a slight issue on mine and also on my buddies printer which is also the Junior. The issue is, the Sample Vase is perfect except a bumpy line stretching vertically from the bottom to the top of the vase. So I have a vase which looks like someone gently took a super-hot butter knife to one side. Is this what your Sample Vase looked like? It's not a cut in the vase, it's more of a vertical smudge. It's not visible when looking at the vase from about five feet away. Any ideas, if this is typical? I may need to ensure my printer is level...but the weird thing is, the issue only happens on that Sample Vase and nothing else. Also, when importing a cylendar, or a wedding ring for example, the XYZware likes to insert a gap on one side of the cylendar. So if you imagine a hoola-hoop which has been cut on one side. When looking at the model before printing, it looks fine. but after clicking print, XYZware converts the 3d model into a blue representation of what the printer sees, and that's when I notice the vertical gap. The circle objects I import into XYZware, are from SketchUp software's STL plugin. Anywho, I love the Da Vinci Junior as my first "easy bake oven"...but when I can get a finer detailed 3D printer...I certainly will.
Follow-up: I used a feeler gauge to check the gap and found the table to not be level. So, I measured the part with the greatest distance and then loosened the screws. The screw layout on my DaVinci Jr. is different than the one shown in the video. I put the feeler gauge underneath the area with the least clearance and tightened the screws. I'll know if it worked on my next print. Unfortunately, that has been delayed by the fact that the printer tells me there's not enough filament for my next job, even though there's a substantial amount of filament left on the spool.
would you recommend the Da Vinci Jr or DaVinci 1.0. Is one better than the other?One other question. Once you print something using their filament, do you know what temperature the material can tolerate? I mean, if you printed a cup, could it hold a cup of boiling hot water?Thank you.
Bought one and wish I would have chosen a different manufacturer. The NFC chip left about 70 yards on the spool and XYZ basically said so what we know this happens but you still have to buy our filament because no other filament works on this printer.
I had the clicking sound, it was the PLA feed slipping because the head was too low. It also causes chatter when the head moves across a layer as it prints. The bed seems level. I did a test print with a solid 0.5"x0.5"x0.2" piece. Printed this over and over at different settings, measuring after each. After the head is moved up a bit, no more clicks. But the accuracy not as good as I hoped, getting better as I increased the Z offset. Ultimately the parts were always smaller by about 0.02 to 0.03" Eventually Z was too high. I have been printing with the Z offset about 2x the point where I was hearing a click from the pusher.
So my da vinci aio 1.0 was calibrated the other day because I had just finished calibrating the printer for the 5th time. I did about 4 or 5 successful prints and then filament stopped sticking to the bed. I checked if the printer had moved or the table was wobbly and it was fine. Then I turned on the calibration setting and it started to calibrate but it kept calibrating point 1 and never went to any of the other points. Now I think that the issue is with the sensor but i don't know for sure. Can u help me with this and show me how to fix it
Amigo Chuck felicitaciones por tan excelentes vídeos . Quiero comprar una impresora 3d y me estoy animando por la jr . Desde la ciudad de México saludos.
is it normal for the print head to make a slight tick when it quickly returns back to position? Not the click from the spool. More like a type write return to position, but not very loud (be steady, happens through the entire print). Thanks in advance for your reply, love your channel.
machine is calibrated in every single way possible. and no matter what I do it starts every print off with a little blog after the test / cleaning strip. Makes little curly things when it try's to build supports of any kind and absolutely failed at printing the ball bearing. It did the outsides ok, but when it got to the first step of the balls it was curly Q madness. I, not knowing a lot about 3d printing have no idea if it's me or the machine. Maybe I should just ditch it for something better /:
it's working a lot better with glue stick, but I feel like I shouldn't need it for the prints I am doing. I am trying the bearing again, supports are staying, but are lifting a little. You need to add your own supports for the bearing right, they aren't built into the design?
Hello. Great video.Other than cutting into the tape, are there any other symptoms of an x-axis that isn't level? My DaVinci Jr does everything great...except circles. With circles they end up looking a bit more like lemons...very slight "points" on the upper left and lower right sides. From eyeballing it, the x-axis APPEARS level, but I haven't actually taken anything and used the T10 driver to loosen the axis and level it. I've been told by DaVinci to do the x-axis leveling, and am currently waiting for some time to get to the store to buy the T10 driver. I'm just wondering if you think that x-axis being a bit off from level could impact the way the machine prints circles, but not really impact much else?
That's what I have been thinking. X-axis tension seems fine, but I see no easy way to check the belt on the Y-Axis. From what you can see, is that going to require some major disassembly to get down to that belt? So far it hasn't really impacted any of the prints I've done...so I'm not SUPER worried about it...but I am still in my return window through Amazon...
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products Thank you. The only thing that worries me is that the Jr still seems kind of hit or miss, and since mine seems to just do circles a bit wonky, I'm nervous that I might exchange it for one that does something else wonky, or something much worse. I did some testing tonight and the x-axis is definitely not level. On the left side with the print head set as low as it can go I can barely fit one sheet of paper in there without really trying, and on the right side I can fit three in with less resistance than one on the other side. I think I might try to level the x-axis first, because the T10 driver will be necessary for work on it down the road anyway, and see if that does anything. If not, then I'll start to seriously consider exchanging it, or possibly upgrading to the new Pro model.
Is the DaVinci 1.0 a better product than the JR? I'll only be printing with PLA for the foreseeable future. I know a lot of the knocks against the DaVinci line is that they DO in fact need calibration, despite the advertisements that they don't.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products I adjusted the x-axis today and did a quick test print of a circular item. A tiny better, but still noticeably not a circle. Figuring I was going to probably end up exchanging this printer for another, I figured what the heck and tore into it. It's actually not difficult to get down to the y-axis belt. The four screws that hold the glass bed in place, then three screws that are visible under the glass are all that's necessary to get to the belt enclosure...then that enclosure just snaps off . Once I was in there, I noticed that the y-axis belt was VERY loose compared to the x-axis belt. I couldn't really see back in the back (I didn't have the case disassembled) so I grabbed my phone and took a picture of the spring assembly that keeps the y-axis belt tensioned. It has a screw (same T10 as all the others) behind it that you can't see. A quick half turn to loosen that screw and the entire assembly snapped back a good 1/8th of an inch or so...that screw had the whole assembly so tight that the spring that keeps tension wasn't even actually doing anything other than remaining compressed all the time. I loosened it a bit more and let it settle, then I tightened that screw back down. A second test print resulted in about as close to perfect as a circle can get!!!! Awesome!!! I'm running a second test print of a more substantial object right now to make sure, but I think I've got the problem sorted, and I won't have to be sending this one anywhere after all!!!!
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products I can try. I was thinking about making a video to show the whole thing and posting that. It will be poorly edited, as my computer doesn't work with my editing software ever since I got Windows 10...but it should show what needs to be done pretty well.
I got my printer Jr. and it's giving me an AWFUL clicking sound from the gear motor. If I adjust the bed would the noise go away? Also the filamanet doesn't come out when it makes the sound. Please help me. I cleaned the nozzle and the gear motor already. Thank you for any help
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products - Thank you. My bed is pretty leveled and it's working better but still clicks sometimes. Also When I load the filament it clicks a lot, and it has nothing to do with the bed. I already cleaned the motor gear. I followed the video by opening the side of the printer. I also deep cleaned the extruder head. Do you think is something else? I really appreciate all your help.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products . One more thing and I hope this gives you more clues. When it clicks and I release the tension with my fingers on the motor lever, it seems to stop the clicking and the filament comes out. But I don't think that is a solution. Do you think is the gear motor? Thank you :)
I really enjoy your videos, it has helped me choose this brand even with the issues they have because you have a knack to fix it. That said, I hope you get a chance to demo a Da Vinci 1.1 plus after this. A shameless request for tweaks.:)
I have a da vinchi Jr and it has many problems ..it cannot print circles and dose not fill in edges .. I told xyz printing about this and they closed all of my support tickets
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
I contacted XYZPrinting support for help with the printer cutting into the tape. They gave me the link to this video! This video is a lifesaver! It helped me start printing again. I am going to try the adjustments shown in the video to tweak the printer performance. My DaVinci Jr. printer also came with a table that was not level .It's a shame that XYZPrinting has to refer me to an independent video to solve a problem that seems to be in many of their printers. At least they referred me to a great video!
All your help and advice is greatly appreciated, here in sunny south africa 3d printing is very new with limited printer choice. Picked up a da vinci 1.0A (lucky well behaved) getting great prints.
Hello Chuck. Just wanting to let you know that I received my book yesterday, great job.
Just had this printer as a gift and noticed the issue thanks for the video. This fixed the first model that I made with supports having a major pla backup that created the first cm with bad quality.
Thanks for your video Chuck. If I may: I took a different route to adjust the bed. I found the bed tape was being cut into at max X while the feed gears clicked and scraped, and at min X the filament did not stick. The adjustment ability is awful - there is no travel in those adjustment screws anyway except for normal screw-hole clearance. I unscrewed the base plat glass clips, removed the glass, unscrewed and removed the metal glass holder, then shimmed under the metal plate with aluminium foil. It was a bit tedious having to disassemble and reassemble about 4 times, but I got a pretty level base plat in the end - immune to x-axis droop.
I followed your guide Chuck, worked perfectly, Thanks!!
Thank you so much, my printer was unusable without calibration, now is working pretty good!! Cheers
I enjoyed your video, I have this machine and never had any problem with it. I now have the da vinci 1.0 pro and I think your video will help me level the bed on this one. I like it because I can use other filaments with it.
Those 2 screws are round hole with no play. I took the head assembly plate out of the printer and rounded out those holes in the direction it needed to move. I used a 2.5" hard drive as my gauge and was able to level it. I apricate your video on getting in the right direction.
I ran into this problem right after getting the printer. The unit right out of the box dug right into the masking tape and made a horrible clicking sound. Thankfully it worked regardless and the sample still printed (though it was a PITA to get off, and it ruined the tape). Despite doing their x-axis adjustment it is still off, so I decided to put a shim under the left side of the glass to boost it up where it is parallel with the head. My z-axis is much higher than yours though, 1.3 leaves no room under my head. I had to leave it at 1.85mm to leave enough room.
Thanks for all the awesome videos!
i had the same issues. Thanks for the help!
Your frustration for setting the da Vinci Jr. v1 is palpable, Chuck. Frankly, I *wish* my problem was as easy to fix as yours.
I got through the first filament spool perfectly, but when I put the second one in (about 5 days later), the quality just tanked on one side - the right side that just feels so floaty. I'm not sure if it was because the extruder axis sagged on that side or the print bed itself sagged.
I've tried to do so much to fix it. I've put plastic wedges (8.58mm wide, within the crippled capacity of the printer to make it) to try and lift the metal rod away from the gray bracket that holds the entire train. I've had to throw the Z offset *literal millimetres at a time*. I'm currently down to 0.9mm, and I've wasted about 50m in test prints and purges/wipe lines and unloading and loading the filament spool and deep-cleaning the nozzle and _oh my god it is a huuuge pain._
And I'm not sure if it's because the machine decided to have this conniption on December 22, but as of writing, XYZp support haven't gotten back to me. It's coming up to the New Year, so maybe I won't hold it against them.
The funny part is that I also can't do the "put the power brick on the bed and rest the Z-axis on it" method their video says to do. The machine is _really_ temperamental about whether or not it'll let you jog the print head more than a few millimetres (sometimes, sometimes not). But my problem comes from the fact that the cord they gave me that connects the brick to the mains supply is *only a foot long* - by the time I get the brick in the printer, the printer's dead. I've had to use my _Halo 3_ steelbook (completely ruined the finish on it). And the print is still really threadbare in places, blobby in others, and sometimes there's nothing but knocking from the extruder.
Maybe it'll work tomorrow. Between your channel and Maker's Muse, I'll be busting with ideas.
Maybe I'll print a hammer so I can smash the eff-ing thing to bits.
I held the button on mine and it keeps going. Cool video!
Just to make sure I understand (I, too have the bed calibration issue), you bottomed out the carriage by loosening the two T10 screws and then adjusted the right side with the screwdriver?
I have one more question for you...the screws that hold the belt tension spring assemblies in place...should these screw be tight to the point where they are effectively stopping the spring from moving, or should they be loose enough to allow the spring to expand as the belt gets looser over time? I ask because both of the screws on the x and y axis on my Jr were clamped down tight, and I'm not sure if I should loosen them a bit to allow the spring to be the only thing effecting the tension, or if I should leave them tight and only loosen them to let the spring change tension when it seems like the bel needs to be adjusted? Thank you again for your help!!
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products Thanks! XYZ actually got back to me quickly on this one. They said I should PUSH the part with my hand to create the tension, then tighten it down with the screw. I've been doing a bit of reading, and it seems that the springs might actually be there only to help with manufacturing so that the bits get themselves roughly into place during assembly.
May I inquire real quick, as to the quality of the Sample Vase built into the Da Vinci Junior? I bought that printer a few days ago, and it's been awesome after a few minor tweaks. But I've noticed a slight issue on mine and also on my buddies printer which is also the Junior. The issue is, the Sample Vase is perfect except a bumpy line stretching vertically from the bottom to the top of the vase. So I have a vase which looks like someone gently took a super-hot butter knife to one side. Is this what your Sample Vase looked like? It's not a cut in the vase, it's more of a vertical smudge. It's not visible when looking at the vase from about five feet away. Any ideas, if this is typical? I may need to ensure my printer is level...but the weird thing is, the issue only happens on that Sample Vase and nothing else.
Also, when importing a cylendar, or a wedding ring for example, the XYZware likes to insert a gap on one side of the cylendar. So if you imagine a hoola-hoop which has been cut on one side. When looking at the model before printing, it looks fine. but after clicking print, XYZware converts the 3d model into a blue representation of what the printer sees, and that's when I notice the vertical gap.
The circle objects I import into XYZware, are from SketchUp software's STL plugin.
Anywho, I love the Da Vinci Junior as my first "easy bake oven"...but when I can get a finer detailed 3D printer...I certainly will.
Follow-up: I used a feeler gauge to check the gap and found the table to not be level. So, I measured the part with the greatest distance and then loosened the screws. The screw layout on my DaVinci Jr. is different than the one shown in the video. I put the feeler gauge underneath the area with the least clearance and tightened the screws. I'll know if it worked on my next print. Unfortunately, that has been delayed by the fact that the printer tells me there's not enough filament for my next job, even though there's a substantial amount of filament left on the spool.
you have to hit the +10mm Z axis button a few times before it moves a second time. at lest for mine :P
Thanks this video helped me a ton.
would you recommend the Da Vinci Jr or DaVinci 1.0. Is one better than the other?One other question. Once you print something using their filament, do you know what temperature the material can tolerate? I mean, if you printed a cup, could it hold a cup of boiling hot water?Thank you.
Bought one and wish I would have chosen a different manufacturer. The NFC chip left about 70 yards on the spool and XYZ basically said so what we know this happens but you still have to buy our filament because no other filament works on this printer.
I had the clicking sound, it was the PLA feed slipping because the head was too low. It also causes chatter when the head moves across a layer as it prints. The bed seems level. I did a test print with a solid 0.5"x0.5"x0.2" piece. Printed this over and over at different settings, measuring after each. After the head is moved up a bit, no more clicks. But the accuracy not as good as I hoped, getting better as I increased the Z offset. Ultimately the parts were always smaller by about 0.02 to 0.03" Eventually Z was too high. I have been printing with the Z offset about 2x the point where I was hearing a click from the pusher.
So my da vinci aio 1.0 was calibrated the other day because I had just finished calibrating the printer for the 5th time. I did about 4 or 5 successful prints and then filament stopped sticking to the bed. I checked if the printer had moved or the table was wobbly and it was fine. Then I turned on the calibration setting and it started to calibrate but it kept calibrating point 1 and never went to any of the other points. Now I think that the issue is with the sensor but i don't know for sure. Can u help me with this and show me how to fix it
Amigo Chuck felicitaciones por tan excelentes vídeos . Quiero comprar una impresora 3d y me estoy animando por la jr . Desde la ciudad de México saludos.
This helped me a lot! Thanks!!!
Does Z offset vary greatly from Jr to Jr? Mine is set a lot lower than yours. I've gotten great results from my Jr.
is it normal for the print head to make a slight tick when it quickly returns back to position? Not the click from the spool. More like a type write return to position, but not very loud (be steady, happens through the entire print). Thanks in advance for your reply, love your channel.
machine is calibrated in every single way possible. and no matter what I do it starts every print off with a little blog after the test / cleaning strip. Makes little curly things when it try's to build supports of any kind and absolutely failed at printing the ball bearing. It did the outsides ok, but when it got to the first step of the balls it was curly Q madness. I, not knowing a lot about 3d printing have no idea if it's me or the machine. Maybe I should just ditch it for something better /:
CHEP 3D Printing & Electronics what is the highest quality machine right now for around $500? In your opinion..
it's working a lot better with glue stick, but I feel like I shouldn't need it for the prints I am doing. I am trying the bearing again, supports are staying, but are lifting a little. You need to add your own supports for the bearing right, they aren't built into the design?
Im having problems with my bands. When i print i get ovals instead of circles. How would I tighten my bands?
Good videos. Thanks for these.
Torx Screws == lost sale
Hello. Great video.Other than cutting into the tape, are there any other symptoms of an x-axis that isn't level? My DaVinci Jr does everything great...except circles. With circles they end up looking a bit more like lemons...very slight "points" on the upper left and lower right sides. From eyeballing it, the x-axis APPEARS level, but I haven't actually taken anything and used the T10 driver to loosen the axis and level it. I've been told by DaVinci to do the x-axis leveling, and am currently waiting for some time to get to the store to buy the T10 driver. I'm just wondering if you think that x-axis being a bit off from level could impact the way the machine prints circles, but not really impact much else?
That's what I have been thinking. X-axis tension seems fine, but I see no easy way to check the belt on the Y-Axis. From what you can see, is that going to require some major disassembly to get down to that belt? So far it hasn't really impacted any of the prints I've done...so I'm not SUPER worried about it...but I am still in my return window through Amazon...
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products Thank you. The only thing that worries me is that the Jr still seems kind of hit or miss, and since mine seems to just do circles a bit wonky, I'm nervous that I might exchange it for one that does something else wonky, or something much worse. I did some testing tonight and the x-axis is definitely not level. On the left side with the print head set as low as it can go I can barely fit one sheet of paper in there without really trying, and on the right side I can fit three in with less resistance than one on the other side. I think I might try to level the x-axis first, because the T10 driver will be necessary for work on it down the road anyway, and see if that does anything. If not, then I'll start to seriously consider exchanging it, or possibly upgrading to the new Pro model.
Is the DaVinci 1.0 a better product than the JR? I'll only be printing with PLA for the foreseeable future. I know a lot of the knocks against the DaVinci line is that they DO in fact need calibration, despite the advertisements that they don't.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products I adjusted the x-axis today and did a quick test print of a circular item. A tiny better, but still noticeably not a circle. Figuring I was going to probably end up exchanging this printer for another, I figured what the heck and tore into it. It's actually not difficult to get down to the y-axis belt. The four screws that hold the glass bed in place, then three screws that are visible under the glass are all that's necessary to get to the belt enclosure...then that enclosure just snaps off . Once I was in there, I noticed that the y-axis belt was VERY loose compared to the x-axis belt. I couldn't really see back in the back (I didn't have the case disassembled) so I grabbed my phone and took a picture of the spring assembly that keeps the y-axis belt tensioned. It has a screw (same T10 as all the others) behind it that you can't see. A quick half turn to loosen that screw and the entire assembly snapped back a good 1/8th of an inch or so...that screw had the whole assembly so tight that the spring that keeps tension wasn't even actually doing anything other than remaining compressed all the time. I loosened it a bit more and let it settle, then I tightened that screw back down.
A second test print resulted in about as close to perfect as a circle can get!!!! Awesome!!!
I'm running a second test print of a more substantial object right now to make sure, but I think I've got the problem sorted, and I won't have to be sending this one anywhere after all!!!!
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products I can try. I was thinking about making a video to show the whole thing and posting that. It will be poorly edited, as my computer doesn't work with my editing software ever since I got Windows 10...but it should show what needs to be done pretty well.
btw, i should add. i am a first day 3d printing virgin i have no idea what noises this thing normally makes. thanks again
I got my printer Jr. and it's giving me an AWFUL clicking sound from the gear motor. If I adjust the bed would the noise go away? Also the filamanet doesn't come out when it makes the sound. Please help me. I cleaned the nozzle and the gear motor already.
Thank you for any help
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products - Thank you. My bed is pretty leveled and it's working better but still clicks sometimes. Also When I load the filament it clicks a lot, and it has nothing to do with the bed. I already cleaned the motor gear. I followed the video by opening the side of the printer. I also deep cleaned the extruder head. Do you think is something else? I really appreciate all your help.
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products . One more thing and I hope this gives you more clues. When it clicks and I release the tension with my fingers on the motor lever, it seems to stop the clicking and the filament comes out. But I don't think that is a solution. Do you think is the gear motor? Thank you :)
I really enjoy your videos, it has helped me choose this brand even with the issues they have because you have a knack to fix it.
That said, I hope you get a chance to demo a Da Vinci 1.1 plus after this. A shameless request for tweaks.:)
Thx my guy
Use glue stick straight on glass works great.
I have a da vinchi Jr and it has many problems ..it cannot print circles and dose not fill in edges .. I told xyz printing about this and they closed all of my support tickets
My print job stops at mid print and cancels my print. Is there are way to fix this problem?
Try a new SD card.
@@FilamentFriday I use a USB cable.
@@FilamentFriday I changed the SD card, same issue, it prints and then it stops saying it is a filament jam.
No idea then. Didn’t know it had a filament sensor. I don’t have XYZ printers anymore.
The bed is 6 inches by 5.9 right?
& it prints 6 inches tall?
Thank you...
Ok print a big print leave the extruded there then do that
Basically, it's a crap Chinese printer.
Taiwan actually.