We all wanna know how you counter bored that one piece with a hacksaw! 😅 Good to see another video from you. I absolutely love your skills, and this build
Great to see another update : ) My one minor aesthetic comment would be to use a toggle switch with a ball on the end. They look more "vintage" which obviously suits your project. I own an Airstream restoration shop & my clients love it when I use the old style switches. Oddly enough, they are available at Lowe's : )
Even having watched all your videos since you were building your tank, you still manage to amaze me pretty much every video you release. Using a hacksaw like the caveman did 1000 years ago is basic. Using a hacksaw blade to cut the recesses for the aluminum light tubes is wizardry like my grade 9 machine shop teacher told us about where you can use a file to make a hole through bar stock. I was never able to master that skill. I’m glad to see you have. 😉
When you do the permanent wiring loom for the car, you might want to look at how the aviation industry utilizes wax string to loom the wires together. If done as meticulously as you have built the car, it'll both fit the theme and look beautiful, especially with those cloth wires.
Been thinking for a while, I'd be shocked if this isn't on JLG once it's finished...of course, Jay will prattle on with all sorts of eye roll-inducing "Intel."
Nice to see you back at it. Thanks for the update mixing hacksaw and plasma flawlessly. One suggestion is to sandblast the inner face of your lenses. This will blurr the direct visibility of the bulb inside.
Really good to see you back. Always amazed at how well you can cut a line. The tailights look great - very clever design/bulb sockets as well. You can always hide a capacitor somewhere if you need extra oomph when cranking.
Hi, you could just wire your Relay as follows: The Flasher Relay over the Turnsignal switch to 86 of the five Pin Relay, 87 to Ground. 30 12volts for running lights and 87a to the Lightbulb. Now, if im not mistaking the running light goes on, when its switcht on, and the Flasher shuts it off, when its "on" Making it flash oppotite to the Front but work at least. Then you could wire the front one to 87 and it should be even syncronised front to rear. I hope im not telling you wrong. Keep it up, such a great Project and greetings from Germany.
Yep, this is how I would wire it as well since he isn't using dual filament bulbs. Overall I would have gone with two dual filament bulbs to simplify the wiring and to have dual running lights that would be dimmer than the brake and turn signals lights.
@@gregstoddard8097 jes, Sure dual purpose bulbs would be easyer to Wire and require No additional relays. Building a Socket from Scratch would be far more complicated on the other Hand.
Seems you really should have an 1157 style bulb and socket. We have used these in the US for like 90 years. A dim and a bright light all from one bulb, it would make the signal wiring much easier and no chance of giving an impression that your brakes are on as it is now
Lovely to see you back on TH-cam, my father and I used to love watching your videos ( he died in September), makes me miss him😢, but bought back fond memories…
Amazing work you're doing. One suggestion I could make about your turn signal situation would be to add a momentary switch on the steering column, like a modern car, but also have an always - on function through a dash mounted switch, for those times it's needed to be on for an extended time. That would be an easy addition.
This video is a surprise. I was hoping for one around Christmas but I'm guessing this was the Thanksgiving episode. 😅. Thanks again for making these videos. It is always fun to watch
Great work as always. A couple things - some shrink tube on the wire terminals would be a good idea, and acorn nuts on the battery box mounting would look nicer (I realize what was shown may be temporary and you already have these things planned.)
Thought.... you mounted battery box on firewall , how bout using acorn nuts for "fit and finish" on those battery box bolts?? You may not be there yet to do all finishing touches.. just a thought. Totally loving your direction with this whole build and your ability to make parts with limited tools. Great job man and keep it up.... I always look forward to your videos
Love this build! I’ve followed it from the beginning. Awesome work! Regarding the flashers I’d use the brakelights for flashers. Anyway, if you connect the turn signal switch to two relys, one for each side, and those turn off the runninglights, and instead connect the flasher relay. You got to use one flasher relay for each side. I’ve done that, it works.
Now you can accurately pipe JB Weld out of an improvised piping bag, you can add cake decoration to your skill set! You'll richly deserve a celebration cake once this is all done.
Great work. Consider using a Lucas DB10 relay. Looks like old electrical hardware but solid state and will accomplish what you’re trying to do without multiple flashers.
Your build is fantastic! I wish I had the skills to do anything near this. Keep up the good work. For your front turn signals, you could use another normal relay sensing the 85/86 off the rear turning circuit. I would use a modern fues if you are actuall hoping to drive this, or better yet the resettable ones that are the bladed fuse format. Its unlikely that anyone would ever look under the dash to check the fuses are period correct, but it will be easier for you in the long run when something pops in the middle of no where.
The way you're doing it with the turn signals involves more parts, and makes sense to most people. If you've ever tried to figure out how a late model multifunction switch works, you'd wish the manufacturer did it the way you did because it's a lot easier to understand.
You could change to dual filament in one set of the taillights. You would have to remake your sockets. The dual filament sockets are a little different. Also there are two contacts in the insolated slug. But the wiring isn't hard.
The aluminum will oxidese and you may have connection problems. You could send out the parts for a clear chem film coating which is conductive. Or run a hard wire.
VERY nice work. Memotronics sells a turn signal flasher bracket (BR1) that LARPS as a vintage piece. I really like the cloth covered wirin and your attention to detail.
Enjoyed the video - great job, very elegant solution to the rear lights. Wiring solution is not so elegant, though, if you have to use multiple flashers. My 1957 Austin Healey, as I recall, had only one light assembly on each rear corner, utilizing one two filament bulb for tail/brake/turn signal, but using only one turn signal flasher. Maybe source a wiring diagram for that or a similar car?
use a dual filament bulb for your rear turn signal usually done on with the brake check any 60s car wiring diagram on how to run one flasher. No need to reinvent the wheel
Been following since you first bent the chassis rails. The Austin A35 indicator switch looks great. Have a look at semaphore type indicators, the type that flipped out. You could mount one either side between the firewall and the dashboard. About as much use as a hand signal these days, but very cool.
You can use one flasher. Just tap off the out put to the tail light. Don't forget dashboard indicators. You can get the flasher with the tape built in also. For the dash lights.
The lights look great, I really like your design and fabrication skills. I'd like to suggest one thing , would it be a safer option to have two switches for the headlights . If it was me , I would have an on/off master type switch and then control dip and heads on another . With the three way switch, there is always a risk of turning off lights completely while switching from heads to dips. I know it would be only temporary but better to be safe.
A tail light converter for 4 wire trailer would allow you to run your wiring with one flasher because it would take two inputs and make it one output for the single filament bulb
Instead of using the brake input for a brake light you would use it for your tail light and it would convert you're wiring to do what you need it to do
Hey Vince, great to see another video, excellent work on the tail lights, you must get a lot of satisfaction with each component you finish and in the way you seem to be achieving that is breaking down the car into its individual building blocks and just focusing on that as this task to complete and in doing so you can keep it fresh and do the best job you can, on that object. If you try to look at all the tasks you have to accomplish in building your *Project Binky* in one hit one could easily get disheartened at the massive Task at hand. I know appreciate the idea of small is best for perfection, Could you imagine building a full sized top of the range 1930 Rolls-Royce Phantom II from scratch? Maybe you can do that for the next project grin. Thankyou for the video it is great to see you put up another fantastic post Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Outstanding job on those taillights. I don't know the science of them but there are "Run, Turn and Stop light modules for motorcycles that convert the rear turn signals into running lights and stop light. I put them on two of my bikes for additional light to the rear. I bet you could figure out how to make one work for you
Hi, I have fitted the same indicator switch in my vintage Austin 7. I did find a flasher unit with a pesio speaker built into the top, to reminde you to turn the indicators of.
an EASIER way to wire the tail lights and turns to be using ONE single filament bulb, you use two of those relays (one for L one for R bulb socket), and on the side thats normally closed, you make that the ground wire going to your tail light, so tails work always, then run your pulsed signal line to activate the relay so when it pulses, it cuts the ground so the light dies, you could leave the entire system the way you have it, just add two of those relays, and isolate the light socket to not be grounded thru the frame
I want to suggest a foot switch to change high and low beams. Also hard to tell from video but it looks like a difficult bulb to replace if it burns out.
May I suggest that you rethink the headlight switch arrangement. It would be too easy to turn off the lights completely if you are hurriedly trying to dim them. The taillights are a great creation. Artistic and functional.
Cable management? Cable tie mounts could be cool, maybe even custom ones. Idk, feel like it would match the vibe more with tidy harness routing. Lights are rad.
Love your work! Can you use diodes to get the lights to function the way you want. I did a similar thing to get indicators and reversing lights to work through one single filament bulb.
I know people will suggest heatshrinking the wire. Have a look at Hellermann Tyton sleeves instead though. They look less modern even if they aren't period. If you do use heatshrink you can rub the lettering off with Isopropyl alcohol which makes it look less jarringly modern.
The others are weighing wired and instead of putting it on the positive side. Put it on the negative side, isolate the 2 wires to your turns. Things up to that negative wire. You know why you want to flash. Then you all you gotta do is add power to use a one of the two wires in a flash
Those look great. You answered my unasked question about brake lights. I'm delighted that you've identified the value of a plasma cutter. For several videos, it's been an obvious way to do some of your cutting jobs. (Including those bases. How did you hollow them out?) Are you going to seal the screws, so they don't corrode in place electrolyticly?
The flasher should break the line (using another relay) powering the rear lights. It should be 50-50% on-off. So it should not make any difference to have it on-off instead of off-on.
All I am going to say is go check any vehicle and let me know how many flashers you find in them. You can absolutely keep the lights functioning the way you want and use one flasher. I am willing to bet. However, when you get the vehicle inspected you will have to take the turn signals out of the headlights. You may not have to do inspections yearly a lot of states have done away with them. However when it comes to a home built vehicle and you have to get it done by the state police in order to get a title issued and a tag
Everyone wants to be a full time TH-camr but you’re one of the few that should already have a massive following and doing it full time
for the use of the hacksaw alone. Geez. I'm over here pricing lathes and CNC tables and this dude is cranking out billets with a hacksaw.
They are some killer bespoke tail lights! WOW!
We all wanna know how you counter bored that one piece with a hacksaw! 😅 Good to see another video from you. I absolutely love your skills, and this build
Great to see another update : ) My one minor aesthetic comment would be to use a toggle switch with a ball on the end. They look more "vintage" which obviously suits your project. I own an Airstream restoration shop & my clients love it when I use the old style switches. Oddly enough, they are available at Lowe's : )
I second the idea of making that head light toggle switch more "vintage "
@@garyh3823 ...in brass.
Also using cap "acorn" nuts on the firewall to match the engine nuts.
So good to see you again. Your fab skills are on the level of a old veteran builder!!! Nice work as always!!!! THX
Seconded
Even having watched all your videos since you were building your tank, you still manage to amaze me pretty much every video you release.
Using a hacksaw like the caveman did 1000 years ago is basic. Using a hacksaw blade to cut the recesses for the aluminum light tubes is wizardry like my grade 9 machine shop teacher told us about where you can use a file to make a hole through bar stock.
I was never able to master that skill. I’m glad to see you have. 😉
I am twice your age and you inspire me to be more creative in all my endeavors
When you do the permanent wiring loom for the car, you might want to look at how the aviation industry utilizes wax string to loom the wires together. If done as meticulously as you have built the car, it'll both fit the theme and look beautiful, especially with those cloth wires.
Great to see another video! I sure love that car, has Jay Leno put in an offer for it yet? 😁
Been thinking for a while, I'd be shocked if this isn't on JLG once it's finished...of course, Jay will prattle on with all sorts of eye roll-inducing "Intel."
Nice to see you back at it. Thanks for the update mixing hacksaw and plasma flawlessly.
One suggestion is to sandblast the inner face of your lenses. This will blurr the direct visibility of the bulb inside.
Really good to see you back. Always amazed at how well you can cut a line. The tailights look great - very clever design/bulb sockets as well. You can always hide a capacitor somewhere if you need extra oomph when cranking.
Hi, you could just wire your Relay as follows: The Flasher Relay over the Turnsignal switch to 86 of the five Pin Relay, 87 to Ground. 30 12volts for running lights and 87a to the Lightbulb. Now, if im not mistaking the running light goes on, when its switcht on, and the Flasher shuts it off, when its "on" Making it flash oppotite to the Front but work at least. Then you could wire the front one to 87 and it should be even syncronised front to rear. I hope im not telling you wrong. Keep it up, such a great Project and greetings from Germany.
Yep, this is how I would wire it as well since he isn't using dual filament bulbs. Overall I would have gone with two dual filament bulbs to simplify the wiring and to have dual running lights that would be dimmer than the brake and turn signals lights.
@@gregstoddard8097 jes, Sure dual purpose bulbs would be easyer to Wire and require No additional relays. Building a Socket from Scratch would be far more complicated on the other Hand.
every day I check this channel for a new video. today is christmas
Nice work on those lights and you already know how to run the single flasher but you've got your design figured out, nice work again
Seems you really should have an 1157 style bulb and socket. We have used these in the US for like 90 years. A dim and a bright light all from one bulb, it would make the signal wiring much easier and no chance of giving an impression that your brakes are on as it is now
Lovely to see you back on TH-cam, my father and I used to love watching your videos ( he died in September), makes me miss him😢, but bought back fond memories…
This car is an absolute triumph!
Glad you found time for another episode. I've been following this since the beginning and enjoy watching the progress.
Thanks for the relay idea. I have a single element front flasher that I have been wanting to set up as a dual purpose running lamp.
Amazing work you're doing. One suggestion I could make about your turn signal situation would be to add a momentary switch on the steering column, like a modern car, but also have an always - on function through a dash mounted switch, for those times it's needed to be on for an extended time. That would be an easy addition.
This video is a surprise. I was hoping for one around Christmas but I'm guessing this was the Thanksgiving episode. 😅. Thanks again for making these videos. It is always fun to watch
Your videos are like a little unexpected present 🎁. Thanks man! 👍🏼👍🏼
Good to see you again . Working on my special’s wiring as well.best regards. Jaap , the Netherlands
It looks phenomenal! It would be right at home (and look damn good!) sitting next to the Spirit of St. Louis or an Electra.
Thanks for the update, those rear lights are so fitting to the overall build.
Why Mr Macro does not have 3 million subscribers and not a millionaire by now blows my mind
Great work as always. A couple things - some shrink tube on the wire terminals would be a good idea, and acorn nuts on the battery box mounting would look nicer (I realize what was shown may be temporary and you already have these things planned.)
Thought.... you mounted battery box on firewall , how bout using acorn nuts for "fit and finish" on those battery box bolts?? You may not be there yet to do all finishing touches.. just a thought. Totally loving your direction with this whole build and your ability to make parts with limited tools. Great job man and keep it up.... I always look forward to your videos
Cool! Maybe dedicated front orange lights for turn signals instead?
That looks very tidy indeed! Nice work!
You are one really gifted young man.
Love this build! I’ve followed it from the beginning. Awesome work!
Regarding the flashers I’d use the brakelights for flashers. Anyway, if you connect the turn signal switch to two relys, one for each side, and those turn off the runninglights, and instead connect the flasher relay. You got to use one flasher relay for each side. I’ve done that, it works.
Now you can accurately pipe JB Weld out of an improvised piping bag, you can add cake decoration to your skill set! You'll richly deserve a celebration cake once this is all done.
Great work. Consider using a Lucas DB10 relay. Looks like old electrical hardware but solid state and will accomplish what you’re trying to do without multiple flashers.
Your build is fantastic! I wish I had the skills to do anything near this. Keep up the good work.
For your front turn signals, you could use another normal relay sensing the 85/86 off the rear turning circuit.
I would use a modern fues if you are actuall hoping to drive this, or better yet the resettable ones that are the bladed fuse format.
Its unlikely that anyone would ever look under the dash to check the fuses are period correct, but it will be easier for you in the long run when something pops in the middle of no where.
Great job on the tail light they fit the car perfectly...
Always nice to see your updates. Appreciate the use of slotted head screws.
Polishing the inside of the housing would amplify the brightness
Should see if you can get some capped nuts like the rocker cover to put on your battery bracket
Thank you so much for the upload ❤️ merry christmas to you and your family from Denmark 🎅🏻🎄🎅🏻
The way you're doing it with the turn signals involves more parts, and makes sense to most people. If you've ever tried to figure out how a late model multifunction switch works, you'd wish the manufacturer did it the way you did because it's a lot easier to understand.
It's so great to see a new video. Well worth the wait.
Love those tail lights! Amazing work, as always!!
For name tags for the dash or anything, you can etch brass with peroxide/pool acid over stencils...
Those tail lights are cool.
It would be nice at some point to run the wires for the lights inside the frame, I'm sure you already thought of that.
You could change to dual filament in one set of the taillights. You would have to remake your sockets. The dual filament sockets are a little different. Also there are two contacts in the insolated slug. But the wiring isn't hard.
Happy holidays glad to see the speedster getting some love.
Great video as always. like you making stuff the old way with hand tools. Dont get a plasma cutter there for everybody else.
The aluminum will oxidese and you may have connection problems. You could send out the parts for a clear chem film coating which is conductive. Or run a hard wire.
You want your running light on all times when head light are on, the break lights are part of turn signals
Hey Sir. Hope your doing great. Good to see you back on T.V. Nice video hope you will be putting these on the car.
VERY nice work. Memotronics sells a turn signal flasher bracket (BR1) that LARPS as a vintage piece. I really like the cloth covered wirin and your attention to detail.
Glad to see you back at it. You are so incredibly skilled. Merry Christmas young man.
Nicely done, thanks for sharing your videos. 👍
Enjoyed the video - great job, very elegant solution to the rear lights. Wiring solution is not so elegant, though, if you have to use multiple flashers. My 1957 Austin Healey, as I recall, had only one light assembly on each rear corner, utilizing one two filament bulb for tail/brake/turn signal, but using only one turn signal flasher. Maybe source a wiring diagram for that or a similar car?
use a dual filament bulb for your rear turn signal usually done on with the brake check any 60s car wiring diagram on how to run one flasher. No need to reinvent the wheel
Great to see you back!
I really enjoy your postings .
Been following since you first bent the chassis rails. The Austin A35 indicator switch looks great. Have a look at semaphore type indicators, the type that flipped out. You could mount one either side between the firewall and the dashboard. About as much use as a hand signal these days, but very cool.
You can use one flasher. Just tap off the out put to the tail light. Don't forget dashboard indicators. You can get the flasher with the tape built in also. For the dash lights.
very nice job as we have all come to expect of you !
The lights look great, I really like your design and fabrication skills. I'd like to suggest one thing , would it be a safer option to have two switches for the headlights . If it was me , I would have an on/off master type switch and then control dip and heads on another . With the three way switch, there is always a risk of turning off lights completely while switching from heads to dips. I know it would be only temporary but better to be safe.
Haven't even watched it yet. But, Glad you're back at it😁😁
A tail light converter for 4 wire trailer would allow you to run your wiring with one flasher because it would take two inputs and make it one output for the single filament bulb
Instead of using the brake input for a brake light you would use it for your tail light and it would convert you're wiring to do what you need it to do
Hey Vince, great to see another video, excellent work on the tail lights, you must get a lot of satisfaction with each component you finish and in the way you seem to be achieving that is breaking down the car into its individual building blocks and just focusing on that as this task to complete and in doing so you can keep it fresh and do the best job you can, on that object. If you try to look at all the tasks you have to accomplish in building your *Project Binky* in one hit one could easily get disheartened at the massive Task at hand.
I know appreciate the idea of small is best for perfection,
Could you imagine building a full sized top of the range 1930 Rolls-Royce Phantom II from scratch? Maybe you can do that for the next project grin.
Thankyou for the video it is great to see you put up another fantastic post
Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
You did a great job on the lights buddy👍🇺🇸
Always excited for another one of your amazing videos. You do phenomenal work and I am eager for the next one when ever that may be.
GREAT JOB AND MADE YOUR OWN LAMP HOLDERS WOW
Amazing as always. Thank You
Love your work 👍
@MacroMachines look for wire diagram of an austin healey frogeye mk1 or jaguar xk140. They use one flasher
Outstanding job on those taillights. I don't know the science of them but there are "Run, Turn and Stop light modules for motorcycles that convert the rear turn signals into running lights and stop light. I put them on two of my bikes for additional light to the rear. I bet you could figure out how to make one work for you
Those little bulbs are single elements and most time break and turns are on the same bulb, also you need a big bulb for break lights
I always enjoy your videos, been following for a long time.
Looks great!
Hi, I have fitted the same indicator switch in my vintage Austin 7. I did find a flasher unit with a pesio speaker built into the top, to reminde you to turn the indicators of.
Turned out great!
It must have been hard to turn down the adapters with the hacksaw. Good work, caveman
You’re killing me using channel locks as a crimping tool.
Man TH-cam didn't give me notification for last video glad i got this one
an EASIER way to wire the tail lights and turns to be using ONE single filament bulb, you use two of those relays (one for L one for R bulb socket), and on the side thats normally closed, you make that the ground wire going to your tail light, so tails work always, then run your pulsed signal line to activate the relay so when it pulses, it cuts the ground so the light dies, you could leave the entire system the way you have it, just add two of those relays, and isolate the light socket to not be grounded thru the frame
I want to suggest a foot switch to change high and low beams. Also hard to tell from video but it looks like a difficult bulb to replace if it burns out.
May I suggest that you rethink the headlight switch arrangement. It would be too easy to turn off the lights completely if you are hurriedly trying to dim them. The taillights are a great creation. Artistic and functional.
Man I love your videos
Keep them coming
Cable management? Cable tie mounts could be cool, maybe even custom ones. Idk, feel like it would match the vibe more with tidy harness routing. Lights are rad.
Should solder/tin the wires. Makes a much better connection
Looks great! Nice to see a new video from you. Hope you are doing well.
Long time no see Vince. Welcome back!
You are the wizard,nice setup for your lights.just keep doing what your doing and thinking and carry on.👍👍👍😎😎😎
Nice to have you back love what your doing with your life
Welcome back.
Great to see more content from you. If you change the running light rear bulb to have 2 contacts could you fix it that way
Love your work!
Can you use diodes to get the lights to function the way you want. I did a similar thing to get indicators and reversing lights to work through one single filament bulb.
For the battery. You should use a leather strap/belt.
JB Weld is conductive.
I know people will suggest heatshrinking the wire. Have a look at Hellermann Tyton sleeves instead though. They look less modern even if they aren't period. If you do use heatshrink you can rub the lettering off with Isopropyl alcohol which makes it look less jarringly modern.
The others are weighing wired and instead of putting it on the positive side. Put it on the negative side, isolate the 2 wires to your turns. Things up to that negative wire. You know why you want to flash. Then you all you gotta do is add power to use a one of the two wires in a flash
Those look great. You answered my unasked question about brake lights.
I'm delighted that you've identified the value of a plasma cutter. For several videos, it's been an obvious way to do some of your cutting jobs. (Including those bases. How did you hollow them out?) Are you going to seal the screws, so they don't corrode in place electrolyticly?
The flasher should break the line (using another relay) powering the rear lights. It should be 50-50% on-off. So it should not make any difference to have it on-off instead of off-on.
All I am going to say is go check any vehicle and let me know how many flashers you find in them. You can absolutely keep the lights functioning the way you want and use one flasher. I am willing to bet. However, when you get the vehicle inspected you will have to take the turn signals out of the headlights. You may not have to do inspections yearly a lot of states have done away with them. However when it comes to a home built vehicle and you have to get it done by the state police in order to get a title issued and a tag
5:47 im wondering if jb weld isn’t conducive… there are other resins or silicones for casting in circuits too