I think that one of the advantages with an F2.8 vs F4 lens is that there is more light coming into the camera, this can sometinmes really help getting good focus.
Thanks for the great comments! Here's why I NEED to shoot at F 1-2 with lenses that are wide open: I shoot with a Sony a6700 camera body (the sensor is much smaller than full frame). As such, low light performance is automatically going to be poor compared to the camera in this video that is full frame. 2. I travel internationally and shoot a lot at night and in interior settings. A lens with F4 and an APSC camera body is impossible to use, might as well pull out my IPHONE 13. So, my solution: sigma 30mm F1.4; Sony 11mm F1.8. I have the sony 70-350 and 18-135 for outdoor work. As well, the sigma 30 and sony 11 also work great outdoors during the day, and I can always adjust f upwards if I want. BUT having the flexibility to shoot interiors and at night, so I don't have to use a flash, is so important.
and i'm here because i'm contemplating selling my f2.8 zoom for an f4 one. the main reason being that my camera bodies don't have ibis and the f4 normal zoom has ois while the f2.8 normal zoom does not. there's also the fact that for casual/travel photography the f4 zoom's larger range is just more useful too. for reference i have Fujifilm so i'm pretty sure i'm going to sell my 16-55f2.8 (24-85mm equivalent) and instead get the stabilized 16-80f4 (24-120mm equivalent). for indoor stuff i will still have my 8-16f2.8 (12-24mm equivalent), my 50-140f2.8 (75-210mm equivalent), or my handful of fast primes. the primes are the main reason i'm not seeing a need to keep the f2.8 normal zoom.
for a similar price and even a lower price, 1 zoom with aperture f4 and prime lens 35mm with 1.8 is my choice instead of aperture on zoom lens with aperture f2.8
That’s not always accurate, sometimes a slower shutter speed actually helps but then you can introduce more motion blur. Some cameras come with anti-flicker which I always recommend turning on in taking photos indoors. With video, it’s a lot harder as you have to balance the motion blur vs flicker. However, i’d always use a low aperture lens for anything indoor unless I had the ability to control the light more
It helped out so much more than I thought and changed my day around for the better. Now I’m hopeful and ready to take on the next challenge. 👍 No lie and no joke appreciate you man!
And then there's all the high end fashion shoots that have the "wow" factor that are shot at f10-f16+... Speaking of fashion shooting, shout out to the epic Sony 20-70mm f4.
i had a 70-200 f4 none is but had to sell it during the pandemic in 2020, i regret selling the 70-200 but i had too cause i had bills to pay, to this day i still wish i had that lens and hoping to get one again.
Things in life are there to challenge us, sorry to hear that it got to the point where you had to sell the lens. Fingers crossed you get a replacement soon!
Thanks for the video! Just tested my new 24 mm f/2.8 vs. 24 mm f/4.0 on my kit lens. Was disappointed in the bokeh difference : visible but insignificant for the overall picture. The 24 mm f/2.8 does well in low light as you pointed out. Which can be significant: 1600 ISO vs. 3200. I'm sure with enough testing, that extra bit of bokeh difference can be enhanced... That's what practice is for!
Bokeh & shallow depth of field is far more important at longer focal lengths. A 24mm focal length isn’t one you’d expect to see bokeh on. Where a 24mm f2.8 (or better f/1.4) prime comes into its own is astrophotography where you need to capture the maximum amount of light.
Wish I was as well spoken as you! Great video man. I recently shot a wedding video on my 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 kit lens and actually did get some nice background separation at 60mm. Definitely need a prime lens for indoor shots. My video should be up when you see this!
I’m far from well spoken but thank you 😂 yeah, you can get background separation at 5.6. It’s harder but completely possible 👌🏻 thanks for watching mate
Hi, great video... which lens do you recommend for ice hockey photography? I have someone selling a Canon 70mm - 200mm L f4 IS lens. Will that be suitable for ice hockey? I have a Canon R10 camera.
I’d done exactly that before and I’d prefer to have 2.8. The focal length is perfect though. You’re just going to need to push that iso higher than normal with f4
Great video! Question, with an f4 or even f4.5-6.3 how can you get more bokeh if you are shooting cinematic broll for example? And also, if you only have budget for f4 or f4.5-6.3 lens, how can you work with real estate video when there's low light situation in the house?Thanks in advance!
First Q - 2 ways, shoot at a higher focal length. A lens such at 200mm f4 will have more bokeh in an image than a 16mm f4. or make your subject be further away from your back ground. The more distance, the more 'bokeh'. Second Q - well if you're doing real estate, even if you had a prime lens with f1.4, I'd still shoot at f4+. Crank the ISO, shoot when there is plenty of day light, shoot at 24/25fps so your shutter speed is 1/50 and use a gimbal to keep it extra smooth
@@DannyBligh Thank you! For the second answer, and if for example in the house is quite dark and also the day is cloudy/rainy how can you work with the f4?
@@alono4473 use a large constant light perhaps, aim it at the ceiling if it’s white and increase the power until it looks okay. I haven’t done lots of real estate but if presented with that situations, that’s what i’d try
I have started my career as a wedding photographer and i bought sony a7m3 with kit lens 28-70 f3.5-5.6 and i am planning to buy a new lens because i have some shoots so i am bit confused which lens to purchase price lens 35mm f1.8 or 85mm f1.8 or should I buy tamron 70-180 f2.8 ?
I personally would go down the route of primes, i use a 35/85 and now a 20mm all of the time for weddings. I own a 70-200 and barely use it 🤷🏻♂️ But it’s personal preference
Got the chance to use the Ziess F4 OSS with my Sony A7IV and I enjoyed it so much I'm really considering buying it. I'm a nature photographer so I always shoot during the day. When I shoot at night or in lowlight I just rely on my prime lenses. On the day I was borrowing the lens I used it for a gig at some church. It worked exceptionally well in lowlight. My ISO was from 3200 to 5000 and since I was only giving subtle edits the pictures still looked fine. I also shot a video with it that day and I enjoyed it. The OSS also worked well with my in body stabilization too. So it all just comes down to what you primarily shoot. If your not doing much lowlight or indoors work and you want to save a little money just go for F4 zooms. But even then you could save much more and get a 2.8 or get one if you work in lowerlighting situations or you REALLY want that extra depth.
Absolutely!! There’s no right or wrong when it comes to cameras and other gear. What works for me may not work for you. Doesn’t mean one of us is doing something wrong! Thanks so much for watching and commenting! ✌🏻
No but when you look at charts from lens manufacturers, most lenses do have the characteristic of gaining sharpness across the whole image as you stop down a little and then eventually the sharpness drops
@@DannyBligh Yes not refuting that point. If we want to generalize, both primes and zooms typically reach peak sharpness between f4 and f8 regardless of widest aperture possible. A wide aperture lens isn't necessarily close to peak sharpness at wider apertures than a narrower aperture lens. Something like the f1 50 is notoriously soft until f4. Same goes for 23 f2.
Depends where you are and what the lighting conditions are like. Ideally you’d go for f2.8, more light hitting that sensor, faster shutter speed and lower iso. But if you were outside, midday photographing football, f4 would be ideal if you’re on a budget and doing it for fun/hobby. Inside, ice hockey for instance, you’ll need f2.8
Where sports photography demands 300mm or longer f4 is the norm. There are very few faster 300mm or 400mm lenses. Once you’re in the 500m or more range f/4 is the fastest lens made.
So, I’m very comfortable getting a ZVE-10 with a Sigma 18-50 2.8. But… when looking a at full frame Sony cameras, I’ve noticed that a FF camera with a 24-70 F4, price wise, is about the same. At least when getting a used body… so my question is, is bokeh and the exposure actually equivalent between those 2 lenses on their respective bodies?
I may be wrong with this, I'd recommend confirming this with Google if I'm honest but - You will lose a stop of light between them two lenses regardless of the difference in type of lens (one being from a cropped sensor and the other being full frame). BUT you will get a very similar look. A f2.8 cropped lens will give you an almost identical look to a f4 full frame lens and the focal lengths have a 1.5x crop (roughly anyway) making the 18-50 f2.8 a 27-75 f4. But you will still lose a stop of light as I think the f2.8 is f2.8 relevant to the sensor it is being used on. But like I say, I may be wrong
can you test the 16-35 pz? i m video shooter (90%) i shoot with the 20 mm 1.8 but i think this zoom could be very versatile...it s an f4...what do you think
I would love to try it out, i'll see what I can do but can't promise anything. In terms of just looking at the specs of the lens, I think it would be a really good lens for video. With it having a powered zoom, it will make zoom rocking really easy whilst filming and it'll be much smoother than using the standard f4 or even the f2.8 lens. From what i've read about the PZ, it seems to be a solid lens and fairly small and lightweight. I definitely think any zoom is versatile and most of the time when i'm filming, I use a zoom, either my 16-35 f2.8 or the 24-70 f2.8. My only issue with the PZ is the F4 aperture. It's not a big problem if you have plenty of natural light but as mentioned in the video, the difference between f4 and f2.8 is the difference between little grain and lots of grain sometimes. It entirely comes down to personal choice and what you need for the work that you do. But as a stand alone lens, I imagine it to be very nice. If I can get my hands on one for a review, I will. Thanks for watching! Have a good day
i'd be more inclined to go for the f2.8 due to the light. But will the f2.8 focus as quickly, is the bokeh, build quality, weight etc the same? For instance, the sigma 24-70 2.8 is a similar price to the sony 24-70 f4... Does that mean the sigma is of lower quality though as it's much cheaper? I don't know, i've never been able to try one for a length of time. I'd definitely recommend trying it though as you may be surprised! And in comparison to the sony f2.8, you'd save a large amount of money!
I just bought my first camera (a6700) after months of thinking about it because of you. You made me realize that my professional photographer friend's comment "don't get the kit lens, buy body only and get better glass to start" isn't the right answer for me and it just went from "that would be nice but its more than I want to spend" to "screw it, I don't need a lens that is just as expensive as the camera body." Also, I used your amazon link to do it :)
The best advice I can give to anybody starting with a camera is buy a brand you like to look of (Sony 🤌🏻😂) and just enjoy it. I had a Sony A7 as my first camera 5 and a half years ago. I still own it but have had 3 more camera bodies since then. The kit lens and that camera shot 9 weddings, got my my first fulltime photography job and inspired me to do this channel. I wish you the very best of luck Ryan!!!
I think that one of the advantages with an F2.8 vs F4 lens is that there is more light coming into the camera, this can sometinmes really help getting good focus.
Absolutely. I chose the F2.8 lenses purely for the extra light. But mainly because i'm indoor a lot for my paid work. Thanks for watching!
I think after this video I understand aperture for the first time ever! Thanks 😊
Danny, this was great. As a newbie to photography you kept it simple.
That’s great to hear. If you need any more advice or help, let me know
used sigma 16mm f1.4 on crop, after a month, traded with 18-105 f4 instead to shoot videos..with good lighting setup and your video will be great
Should I do some lens comparisons?! What are we wanting to see? Let me know!
Nikon 24-120 f4 vs tamron 24-70 f2.8
Thanks for the great comments! Here's why I NEED to shoot at F 1-2 with lenses that are wide open: I shoot with a Sony a6700 camera body (the sensor is much smaller than full frame). As such, low light performance is automatically going to be poor compared to the camera in this video that is full frame. 2. I travel internationally and shoot a lot at night and in interior settings. A lens with F4 and an APSC camera body is impossible to use, might as well pull out my IPHONE 13. So, my solution: sigma 30mm F1.4; Sony 11mm F1.8. I have the sony 70-350 and 18-135 for outdoor work. As well, the sigma 30 and sony 11 also work great outdoors during the day, and I can always adjust f upwards if I want. BUT having the flexibility to shoot interiors and at night, so I don't have to use a flash, is so important.
wow Danny, i see lots of subscribers on your channel in the future. you're doing a great work in the right way, best compliments 🙏👏
Thats super kind of you to say. I try hard to help others on this channel and your comment has made my day. Thank you!
Just went the f4 route and I couldn't be happier
Keep up these great vids! :) I'm cheering you on.
Thanks Luka!! Really appreciate the support!!
and i'm here because i'm contemplating selling my f2.8 zoom for an f4 one. the main reason being that my camera bodies don't have ibis and the f4 normal zoom has ois while the f2.8 normal zoom does not. there's also the fact that for casual/travel photography the f4 zoom's larger range is just more useful too.
for reference i have Fujifilm so i'm pretty sure i'm going to sell my 16-55f2.8 (24-85mm equivalent) and instead get the stabilized 16-80f4 (24-120mm equivalent). for indoor stuff i will still have my 8-16f2.8 (12-24mm equivalent), my 50-140f2.8 (75-210mm equivalent), or my handful of fast primes. the primes are the main reason i'm not seeing a need to keep the f2.8 normal zoom.
End of the day, it ultimately comes down to what you need for your project 👌🏻 love a bit of Fuji though!
for a similar price and even a lower price, 1 zoom with aperture f4 and prime lens 35mm with 1.8 is my choice instead of aperture on zoom lens with aperture f2.8
It makes perfect sense if that suits what you need ✌🏻
That's what I am planning for my lens purchases. F4 Zoom with a f1.4 prime lens.
Lower f means higher shutter speed means less light flicker indoors
That’s not always accurate, sometimes a slower shutter speed actually helps but then you can introduce more motion blur.
Some cameras come with anti-flicker which I always recommend turning on in taking photos indoors.
With video, it’s a lot harder as you have to balance the motion blur vs flicker. However, i’d always use a low aperture lens for anything indoor unless I had the ability to control the light more
Just ordered Tamron 17 -70 f2.8.. Can't wait to test it ❤️
Enjoy!!!
Thank you so much for making this video, honestly Man!🙏
My pleasure!! Hope it helped!!
It helped out so much more than I thought and changed my day around for the better. Now I’m hopeful and ready to take on the next challenge. 👍 No lie and no joke appreciate you man!
And then there's all the high end fashion shoots that have the "wow" factor that are shot at f10-f16+... Speaking of fashion shooting, shout out to the epic Sony 20-70mm f4.
Very useful information, thanks a lot Danny 👊🏾
Not a problem, Mikel! Hope it helps and thank you for watching
i had a 70-200 f4 none is but had to sell it during the pandemic in 2020, i regret selling the 70-200 but i had too cause i had bills to pay,
to this day i still wish i had that lens and hoping to get one again.
Things in life are there to challenge us, sorry to hear that it got to the point where you had to sell the lens. Fingers crossed you get a replacement soon!
Thanks for the video! Just tested my new 24 mm f/2.8 vs. 24 mm f/4.0 on my kit lens. Was disappointed in the bokeh difference : visible but insignificant for the overall picture. The 24 mm f/2.8 does well in low light as you pointed out. Which can be significant: 1600 ISO vs. 3200. I'm sure with enough testing, that extra bit of bokeh difference can be enhanced... That's what practice is for!
With every lens there’s a particular distance to have your subject which seems to be a sweet spot
Bokeh & shallow depth of field is far more important at longer focal lengths. A 24mm focal length isn’t one you’d expect to see bokeh on. Where a 24mm f2.8 (or better f/1.4) prime comes into its own is astrophotography where you need to capture the maximum amount of light.
Wish I was as well spoken as you! Great video man. I recently shot a wedding video on my 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 kit lens and actually did get some nice background separation at 60mm. Definitely need a prime lens for indoor shots. My video should be up when you see this!
I’m far from well spoken but thank you 😂 yeah, you can get background separation at 5.6. It’s harder but completely possible 👌🏻 thanks for watching mate
I have Sony 16-35 f4 PZ and with the money i saved from not buying the GM f2.8 i bought a Sony 35mm f1.8 and a Viltrox 16mm f1.8
Exactly!! Sometimes a 2.8 is needed but not all of the time 🤷🏻♂️ how’s the Viltrox? 🧐
@@DannyBligh it's great! Best wide angle prime there is.
At 2:45, was that said backwards? Or...?
Hi, great video... which lens do you recommend for ice hockey photography? I have someone selling a Canon 70mm - 200mm L f4 IS lens. Will that be suitable for ice hockey? I have a Canon R10 camera.
I’d done exactly that before and I’d prefer to have 2.8. The focal length is perfect though. You’re just going to need to push that iso higher than normal with f4
Thanks, your response is much appreciated. How is the Nikon AFS f2.8 mkII ED? Thinking of buying it
Great video! Question, with an f4 or even f4.5-6.3 how can you get more bokeh if you are shooting cinematic broll for example? And also, if you only have budget for f4 or f4.5-6.3 lens, how can you work with real estate video when there's low light situation in the house?Thanks in advance!
First Q - 2 ways, shoot at a higher focal length. A lens such at 200mm f4 will have more bokeh in an image than a 16mm f4. or make your subject be further away from your back ground. The more distance, the more 'bokeh'.
Second Q - well if you're doing real estate, even if you had a prime lens with f1.4, I'd still shoot at f4+. Crank the ISO, shoot when there is plenty of day light, shoot at 24/25fps so your shutter speed is 1/50 and use a gimbal to keep it extra smooth
@@DannyBligh Thank you! For the second answer, and if for example in the house is quite dark and also the day is cloudy/rainy how can you work with the f4?
@@alono4473 use a large constant light perhaps, aim it at the ceiling if it’s white and increase the power until it looks okay. I haven’t done lots of real estate but if presented with that situations, that’s what i’d try
@@DannyBligh Appreciate your help!!
I have started my career as a wedding photographer and i bought sony a7m3 with kit lens 28-70 f3.5-5.6 and i am planning to buy a new lens because i have some shoots so i am bit confused which lens to purchase price lens 35mm f1.8 or 85mm f1.8 or should I buy tamron 70-180 f2.8 ?
I personally would go down the route of primes, i use a 35/85 and now a 20mm all of the time for weddings. I own a 70-200 and barely use it 🤷🏻♂️
But it’s personal preference
Got the chance to use the Ziess F4 OSS with my Sony A7IV and I enjoyed it so much I'm really considering buying it. I'm a nature photographer so I always shoot during the day. When I shoot at night or in lowlight I just rely on my prime lenses. On the day I was borrowing the lens I used it for a gig at some church. It worked exceptionally well in lowlight. My ISO was from 3200 to 5000 and since I was only giving subtle edits the pictures still looked fine. I also shot a video with it that day and I enjoyed it. The OSS also worked well with my in body stabilization too. So it all just comes down to what you primarily shoot. If your not doing much lowlight or indoors work and you want to save a little money just go for F4 zooms. But even then you could save much more and get a 2.8 or get one if you work in lowerlighting situations or you REALLY want that extra depth.
Absolutely!!
There’s no right or wrong when it comes to cameras and other gear. What works for me may not work for you. Doesn’t mean one of us is doing something wrong!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! ✌🏻
It's not correct to assume a 2.8 lens is sharper at f4 than a f4 lens at f4. It's all very lens dependent.
No but when you look at charts from lens manufacturers, most lenses do have the characteristic of gaining sharpness across the whole image as you stop down a little and then eventually the sharpness drops
@@DannyBligh Yes not refuting that point. If we want to generalize, both primes and zooms typically reach peak sharpness between f4 and f8 regardless of widest aperture possible. A wide aperture lens isn't necessarily close to peak sharpness at wider apertures than a narrower aperture lens. Something like the f1 50 is notoriously soft until f4. Same goes for 23 f2.
This was very helpful great video. I would like to see lens comparisons.
Thank you!!
You're welcome!!
F4 for sport photography its still recommended?
Depends where you are and what the lighting conditions are like. Ideally you’d go for f2.8, more light hitting that sensor, faster shutter speed and lower iso. But if you were outside, midday photographing football, f4 would be ideal if you’re on a budget and doing it for fun/hobby. Inside, ice hockey for instance, you’ll need f2.8
@@DannyBligh waaw thank so much, now i use mirrorless eos m50ii, i hope its work with tele lens soon🙏
Where sports photography demands 300mm or longer f4 is the norm. There are very few faster 300mm or 400mm lenses. Once you’re in the 500m or more range f/4 is the fastest lens made.
So, I’m very comfortable getting a ZVE-10 with a Sigma 18-50 2.8. But… when looking a at full frame Sony cameras, I’ve noticed that a FF camera with a 24-70 F4, price wise, is about the same. At least when getting a used body… so my question is, is bokeh and the exposure actually equivalent between those 2 lenses on their respective bodies?
I may be wrong with this, I'd recommend confirming this with Google if I'm honest but - You will lose a stop of light between them two lenses regardless of the difference in type of lens (one being from a cropped sensor and the other being full frame). BUT you will get a very similar look. A f2.8 cropped lens will give you an almost identical look to a f4 full frame lens and the focal lengths have a 1.5x crop (roughly anyway) making the 18-50 f2.8 a 27-75 f4. But you will still lose a stop of light as I think the f2.8 is f2.8 relevant to the sensor it is being used on. But like I say, I may be wrong
can you test the 16-35 pz?
i m video shooter (90%)
i shoot with the 20 mm 1.8 but i think this zoom could be very versatile...it s an f4...what do you think
I would love to try it out, i'll see what I can do but can't promise anything. In terms of just looking at the specs of the lens, I think it would be a really good lens for video. With it having a powered zoom, it will make zoom rocking really easy whilst filming and it'll be much smoother than using the standard f4 or even the f2.8 lens. From what i've read about the PZ, it seems to be a solid lens and fairly small and lightweight. I definitely think any zoom is versatile and most of the time when i'm filming, I use a zoom, either my 16-35 f2.8 or the 24-70 f2.8. My only issue with the PZ is the F4 aperture. It's not a big problem if you have plenty of natural light but as mentioned in the video, the difference between f4 and f2.8 is the difference between little grain and lots of grain sometimes. It entirely comes down to personal choice and what you need for the work that you do. But as a stand alone lens, I imagine it to be very nice.
If I can get my hands on one for a review, I will. Thanks for watching! Have a good day
Thank you, very useful
An absolute pleasure. Thanks for watching
Get on with it mate 3:17
canon rf vs 1,5k vs 2,5k
if both price 2.8&4 is same. which want you suggest
i'd be more inclined to go for the f2.8 due to the light. But will the f2.8 focus as quickly, is the bokeh, build quality, weight etc the same? For instance, the sigma 24-70 2.8 is a similar price to the sony 24-70 f4... Does that mean the sigma is of lower quality though as it's much cheaper? I don't know, i've never been able to try one for a length of time. I'd definitely recommend trying it though as you may be surprised! And in comparison to the sony f2.8, you'd save a large amount of money!
Cool video
Cheers Matthew! Thank for watching!
I just bought my first camera (a6700) after months of thinking about it because of you.
You made me realize that my professional photographer friend's comment "don't get the kit lens, buy body only and get better glass to start" isn't the right answer for me and it just went from "that would be nice but its more than I want to spend" to "screw it, I don't need a lens that is just as expensive as the camera body."
Also, I used your amazon link to do it :)
The best advice I can give to anybody starting with a camera is buy a brand you like to look of (Sony 🤌🏻😂) and just enjoy it. I had a Sony A7 as my first camera 5 and a half years ago. I still own it but have had 3 more camera bodies since then. The kit lens and that camera shot 9 weddings, got my my first fulltime photography job and inspired me to do this channel.
I wish you the very best of luck Ryan!!!
"I don't need a lens that is just as expensive as the camera body." Well, you have have gotten a more expensive body then...
I would LOVE to see the Sony 20-70mm f4 G vs the old favorite Sony Zeiss 24-70mm f4 OSS
👌
Do you know where this comes from ..... "I'll Get You - Just You Wait - You'll Regret That " 🪱🪱 I want to be a pro someday - nice little video buddy !