The model has been updated significantly since you first looked at it. One detail I added was counting total eggs. I saw a video where Jamie Ellis mentioned that a queen will produce a half million eggs in her life. I emailed him and asked if that was a comment to mean a lot of eggs, or if it was a measured amount from literature. He responded that it is a referenced number from literature. Colony growth model now shows the egg count for a season and shows clearly a queen laying 1500 or more per day thru a season is well on the way to ‘used up’ after a season.
At which stage of the season do you requeen? Personally i found requeening at the end of the season is best for my particular location. My only concern is the lack of drones to properly mate those queens, since i´m starting to "make" them myself. Maybe it would be best to have a stock of nukes with mated queens made in early season, then fuse those with production hives before overwintering. Thanks for your videos, they are a great help and source of information for people like me, in transition from hobby to professional beekeeper.
I'd like to add a note on queen health and longevity. I read a study that confirms that Neonicotinoid pesticides are having a detrimental impact on queen health and longevity. Those of us who live close to farmers who use such systemic pesticides can attest that queens rarely are productive into a second season; and these older queens are very often superceded. Also, queens dying during their second winter in confinement is a real concern. And we can't discount the effects of the viruses introduced to workers and the queen by Varroa. I'd changed my management practices a decade ago, requeening colonies yearly. New queens are simply powerhouses that can fill a hive with brood and bees in a remarkably short time. It's understandable that requeening is often viewed as a difficult and costly endeavor by novice beekeepers. However, allowing colonies to requeen themselves is easy; and the only cost involved is a 2 or 3 frame Nuc box which an be constructed at home with a few tools and weather resistant OSB. Make sure the colony has at least one frame containing eggs and young brood. Thereafter, remove the old queen from the colony and place her in the Nuc box along with a frame, or two of bees; make sure she's got some food stores and empty comb(keeping the old queen is simply insurance in the event that the original colony doesn't requeen itself) The queenless colony will realize its queenless state very quickly and begin building queen cells. Check the colony in 7 days to confirm the presence of the peanut shaped queen cells. You may often find multiple cells; leave two and destroy, or carefully remove the extra ones. An extra cell can be gently wedged between the top bars over the brood area of another colony that needs a new queen; it will hatch and kill the old queen before going on it's mating flight. Summer has the best conditions for requeening in such a manner. It takes 12 days for a colony to raise a new queen from an egg, and another week, or two, for a newly hatched queen to mate and begin laying eggs. After a queen hatches she and the colony is in a delicate state; the beekeeper should be very careful not to agitate the colony at this time due to the increased chance of the queen being rejected. Hope this helps, and happy beekeeping!
Totally agree for your situation. I only have 10 hives. I use a poor laying queen in one deep to draw comb out for nucs. I just drop the deeps off at friends with good alfalfa fields. Fall I take the comb and freeze it. Then combine what’s left with another hive, taking the honey. Donate your old queens to those less fortunate. Lol. Love your videos!
I am a farmer and hobbyist bee keeper in Ohio (about 75 hives). As a suggestion for a future video, I would be interested in how your operation transformed into it's present unique diversification of a beef breeding, grain, and bee keeping operation. Have the different aspects always been a part of the farm or have the different individuals involved (Dad and brothers) developed these interests into the present farming scheme? Thanks for taking time to post the videos. They are very interesting and informative.
Ian we would love to have your explanation on that, it is true. Thanks again for all the sharing and keep up the good work :) alongside the honey flow!
Another great video!! I am looking forward to all your videos in 2018. I find the information you are sharing extremely beneficial in my operation. Thanks again Moe
This is fascinating. As a new hobbyist, I'm miles away from considering a requeening strategy like you, as a producer, engage in. Nonetheless, it's terrifically interesting to see how deeply you delve into bee husbandry to maximize the potential of your bees.
Mark. Check out the OTS model. This is perfectly suited to hobby and smaller operations. I run over 100 colonies and OTS is vital to my management process.
I agree with you on the bi-annual schedule. I requeen every other year, as a matter of principle. Exceptional queens that I graft from can stay around longer. And these great queens make me just as much honey in the third year as an average queen in the first year. In fact, I replaced a white queen yesterday that made me two supers more honey than all the other colonies in the same yard that had younger queens. She was still going strong, but I won't push my luck putting a three year old queen into the winter. Goes to show that it's all about queen quality, even more than age, as you show in the graphs.
Thank you for very interesting film. If you never mind I will ask you a couple of question. The first one concern the economic factors: The new queen it is an additional cost of queen and working time additionaly. the bees family during queen incorporation is not as productive as the familly with the alredy incorporated mother. Did you compare all this costs with incoms from bees family wich works in let me say natural rythm. The second question concern mechanism of new queen incorporation: how long the targed bees familly stays without queen at all, what do you do with brood, how long the new queen stay in cacage beefore her realease. The third question consern treatment of you bees against warrosa. with best regards from Poland
Thanks for covering this. Relatively new. This will be my 3rd summer, and I'm starting to raise my queen stock myself this year. I plan to occasionally bring in young outside queens just to keep my stock diversified. I had been wondering about how often to requeen, and was debating on hitting all of my hives or to wait. Looks like all of my hives will be getting new this year.
Marcel A Mueller My breeders are from 3 year old stock My replacement stock is incorporated, by end of season my stock is roughly 1/2 changed out. On one of my videos on hive tags, you will see me walk the isles, you will notice the youth, but you will also notice age scattered within. Failures are switched out
Hi.... Thank for your answers. I want to ask at your hives number ..... So you use nucs a with new quen first and after winter do you combine(unite) with the old colony that have old quenn in order to requen or what exactlly you do with the queen that are in old colony? im in doubt here. Also what you think about replacing old queen with a capped queen cell that is ready just to born? Sorry for my bad english and thank you. Awesome!
I check more times your video. I now understand that you rotate the hives with these nucs? Then what hapend with old colony that have old queens? thank
Never mind, I found it on another on of your videos - one question - why does a *nuc with queen* do bettered than a *wintered* hive? (in this model) www.rozehaven.ca/hivemodels/index.html What if I simply shrunk my over-wintered hive down to a nuc in the spring (or just a smaller size hive)? Would that have the same affect as a *nuc with queen* in the spring?
My opinion would be a heifer would not be as productive as a second calver. I would not replace 100% of my queens every year when a 2 and 3 year old queens have very productive hives. Economically it doesn’t make sense. I am not commercial be keeper though it’s just an opinion. Love watching your videos and seeing ideas on how your family is running such a big farm.
Ian! I really REALLY enjoy your videos. I am learning a lot. A few quick questions... Is there any market value in your "old" bees? For instance, if I have 10 hives, and re-queen using your time-table, Is there a market for selling the 2 year old ones, or is there usefulness for them in my own apiary? Also, related to your indoor wintering approach, have you ran across anyone using the Slovenian styles hives/houses? I ran across a video about them the other day and am extremely interested in trying it. Here is a link to what I am referring to. th-cam.com/video/b25PIhMd6MA/w-d-xo.html&pbjreload=10
My opinion is :You can run a Queen for 3 years ,if the queen is mate in te lab.Why.!!??.Because you know exactly how much sperm you inject in to the queen.Naturalie mating ,you never know, how many drons she contact, so.... no control on the quantity of the sperm.So... no sperm ,not a lot of egs, so, that queen will have a short life production.Artificial mating ,is a good short cut,don't have to wait on her.She will get directly in to production.
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
Always refreshing to go back to this old videos. So much knowledge. Thanks Ian.
The model has been updated significantly since you first looked at it. One detail I added was counting total eggs. I saw a video where Jamie Ellis mentioned that a queen will produce a half million eggs in her life. I emailed him and asked if that was a comment to mean a lot of eggs, or if it was a measured amount from literature. He responded that it is a referenced number from literature. Colony growth model now shows the egg count for a season and shows clearly a queen laying 1500 or more per day thru a season is well on the way to ‘used up’ after a season.
Cool videos. My question is how to get your brude count up early in the year for pollinating groves .Thank you
At which stage of the season do you requeen? Personally i found requeening at the end of the season is best for my particular location. My only concern is the lack of drones to properly mate those queens, since i´m starting to "make" them myself. Maybe it would be best to have a stock of nukes with mated queens made in early season, then fuse those with production hives before overwintering. Thanks for your videos, they are a great help and source of information for people like me, in transition from hobby to professional beekeeper.
thanks for taking the time to teach us. Stan in Texas
I'd like to add a note on queen health and longevity. I read a study that confirms that Neonicotinoid pesticides are having a detrimental impact on queen health and longevity. Those of us who live close to farmers who use such systemic pesticides can attest that queens rarely are productive into a second season; and these older queens are very often superceded. Also, queens dying during their second winter in confinement is a real concern. And we can't discount the effects of the viruses introduced to workers and the queen by Varroa. I'd changed my management practices a decade ago, requeening colonies yearly. New queens are simply powerhouses that can fill a hive with brood and bees in a remarkably short time. It's understandable that requeening is often viewed as a difficult and costly endeavor by novice beekeepers. However, allowing colonies to requeen themselves is easy; and the only cost involved is a 2 or 3 frame Nuc box which an be constructed at home with a few tools and weather resistant OSB. Make sure the colony has at least one frame containing eggs and young brood. Thereafter, remove the old queen from the colony and place her in the Nuc box along with a frame, or two of bees; make sure she's got some food stores and empty comb(keeping the old queen is simply insurance in the event that the original colony doesn't requeen itself) The queenless colony will realize its queenless state very quickly and begin building queen cells. Check the colony in 7 days to confirm the presence of the peanut shaped queen cells. You may often find multiple cells; leave two and destroy, or carefully remove the extra ones. An extra cell can be gently wedged between the top bars over the brood area of another colony that needs a new queen; it will hatch and kill the old queen before going on it's mating flight. Summer has the best conditions for requeening in such a manner. It takes 12 days for a colony to raise a new queen from an egg, and another week, or two, for a newly hatched queen to mate and begin laying eggs. After a queen hatches she and the colony is in a delicate state; the beekeeper should be very careful not to agitate the colony at this time due to the increased chance of the queen being rejected. Hope this helps, and happy beekeeping!
Totally agree for your situation. I only have 10 hives. I use a poor laying queen in one deep to draw comb out for nucs. I just drop the deeps off at friends with good alfalfa fields. Fall I take the comb and freeze it. Then combine what’s left with another hive, taking the honey. Donate your old queens to those less fortunate. Lol. Love your videos!
I am a farmer and hobbyist bee keeper in Ohio (about 75 hives). As a suggestion for a future video, I would be interested in how your operation transformed into it's present unique diversification of a beef breeding, grain, and bee keeping operation. Have the different aspects always been a part of the farm or have the different individuals involved (Dad and brothers) developed these interests into the present farming scheme? Thanks for taking time to post the videos. They are very interesting and informative.
Larry Mangan that is one of the more frequent asked questions
I’ll see what I can put together
Ian we would love to have your explanation on that, it is true. Thanks again for all the sharing and keep up the good work :) alongside the honey flow!
Another great video!! I am looking forward to all your videos in 2018. I find the information you are sharing extremely beneficial in my operation.
Thanks again
Moe
This is fascinating. As a new hobbyist, I'm miles away from considering a requeening strategy like you, as a producer, engage in. Nonetheless, it's terrifically interesting to see how deeply you delve into bee husbandry to maximize the potential of your bees.
Mark. Check out the OTS model. This is perfectly suited to hobby and smaller operations. I run over 100 colonies and OTS is vital to my management process.
Requeening every year is the best.
I agree with you on the bi-annual schedule. I requeen every other year, as a matter of principle. Exceptional queens that I graft from can stay around longer. And these great queens make me just as much honey in the third year as an average queen in the first year. In fact, I replaced a white queen yesterday that made me two supers more honey than all the other colonies in the same yard that had younger queens. She was still going strong, but I won't push my luck putting a three year old queen into the winter. Goes to show that it's all about queen quality, even more than age, as you show in the graphs.
Hope you kept genetic from that good Queen 👍👍
Thank you for very interesting film. If you never mind I will ask you a couple of question. The first one concern the economic factors: The new queen it is an additional cost of queen and working time additionaly. the bees family during queen incorporation is not as productive as the familly with the alredy incorporated mother. Did you compare all this costs with incoms from bees family wich works in let me say natural rythm.
The second question concern mechanism of new queen incorporation: how long the targed bees familly stays without queen at all, what do you do with brood, how long the new queen stay in cacage beefore her realease.
The third question consern treatment of you bees against warrosa.
with best regards from Poland
Thanks for covering this. Relatively new. This will be my 3rd summer, and I'm starting to raise my queen stock myself this year. I plan to occasionally bring in young outside queens just to keep my stock diversified. I had been wondering about how often to requeen, and was debating on hitting all of my hives or to wait. Looks like all of my hives will be getting new this year.
Scott Maschino I like to keep them fresh
3 years is a long time for a bee
I enjoy all of your videos thank you
How do you select for queen longevity if you don’t let queens stand the test of time?
Marcel A Mueller
My breeders are from 3 year old stock
My replacement stock is incorporated, by end of season my stock is roughly 1/2 changed out.
On one of my videos on hive tags, you will see me walk the isles, you will notice the youth, but you will also notice age scattered within. Failures are switched out
Do you find a difference between a queen raised the fall before and a queen raised in early spring before the flow starts? Thanks
Adam uthlaut yes
The summer before queens explode in growth
@@aCanadianBeekeepersBlog Golden advice there!
Thanks love your videos great job very informational
Hi.... Thank for your answers. I want to ask at your hives number ..... So you use nucs a with new quen first and after winter do you combine(unite) with the old colony that have old quenn in order to requen or what exactlly you do with the queen that are in old colony? im in doubt here. Also what you think about replacing old queen with a capped queen cell that is ready just to born? Sorry for my bad english and thank you. Awesome!
I check more times your video. I now understand that you rotate the hives with these nucs? Then what hapend with old colony that have old queens? thank
Alexandru Nan
Those old colonies (the poor performing hives ) are culled and used to build new nucs
Alexandru Nan check out my TH-cam profile, it explains all about my farm and size
Really like your videos
Can anybody tell me how much day's queen can survive with queen candy???
❤❤❤❤
I could not find the charts/references you referred to - any chance you can post the direct links to them? - thanks!
Don Rota look under heading colony growth models
Never mind, I found it on another on of your videos - one question - why does a *nuc with queen* do bettered than a *wintered* hive? (in this model) www.rozehaven.ca/hivemodels/index.html What if I simply shrunk my over-wintered hive down to a nuc in the spring (or just a smaller size hive)? Would that have the same affect as a *nuc with queen* in the spring?
Don Rota that’s a mis interpretation
With the queens bees being equil
The larger unit will always grow faster
Don Rota that’s a mis interpretation
With the queens bees being equil
The larger unit will always grow faster
Thanks - still though - a most awesome charting tool - thanks for passing it on!
👏👍
My opinion would be a heifer would not be as productive as a second calver. I would not replace 100% of my queens every year when a 2 and 3 year old queens have very productive hives. Economically it doesn’t make sense. I am not commercial be keeper though it’s just an opinion.
Love watching your videos and seeing ideas on how your family is running such a big farm.
Have been mating and marking our own queens for a long time. A 3-yr-old is extremely rare in my yards here in east central illinois.
Thanks again
Ian! I really REALLY enjoy your videos. I am learning a lot. A few quick questions... Is there any market value in your "old" bees? For instance, if I have 10 hives, and re-queen using your time-table, Is there a market for selling the 2 year old ones, or is there usefulness for them in my own apiary? Also, related to your indoor wintering approach, have you ran across anyone using the Slovenian styles hives/houses? I ran across a video about them the other day and am extremely interested in trying it. Here is a link to what I am referring to. th-cam.com/video/b25PIhMd6MA/w-d-xo.html&pbjreload=10
My opinion is :You can run a Queen for 3 years ,if the queen is mate in te lab.Why.!!??.Because you know exactly how much sperm you inject in to the queen.Naturalie mating ,you never know, how many drons she contact, so.... no control on the quantity of the sperm.So... no sperm ,not a lot of egs, so, that queen will have a short life production.Artificial mating ,is a good short cut,don't have to wait on her.She will get directly in to production.
Peak performance.
Requeening every year is one of the stupidest things you can do.
Would never dream of changing queens every year - there is simply no documentation for a difference in honey production.