Stop Slippery Wood Glue Ups: 5 Quick Gluing Hacks - Woodworking Tips and Tricks
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Here are 5 life hacks to prevent slippery adhesives on boards from getting out of hand on you when you are gluing them together such as when making table legs or other thicker wood structural components.
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5 Quick Glue Hacks: • Stop Slippery Wood Glu...
Salt and Grit on Glue Joints: • Strength Testing Salt ...
5 Quick Woodworking tips and tricks: • 5 Quick Woodworking Ha...
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**** Read the Full Article by Colin Knecht on these Slippery Wood Glue Hacks here: goo.gl/vnF3MS
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When I typed “how to stop glue slide” into the TH-cam search bar I thought 💭 what are the chances there’s a video on this? Thank you Colin! 👍
I must say. The staple one was the icing on the cake! I would never have thought about that in a million years! Thanks so much for all the tips and tricks Colin. Sometimes we need just a little break to ease the tension of day sometimes if it’s been a rough one. A little tip like these could make you feel better about yourself, lol
thanks Colin Knecht. I really enjoyed your video. Some really useful tips in there. Thanks for that
I have found just giving it a minute to start to stiffen and then clamping works pretty good as well. It loses the slimy effect and you can still mold it to where you need them to be. 👊🏻 Great tips.
WoodenCreationz Agreed, a little bit of waiting can do wonders!
Agreed, many times and with many types of glue, waiting for them to tack-up a bit can help a lot!
WoodenCreationz Colin do you have a video on that clamp holder?
Thank you, John
Nice tips these staples !
Thxs for your vidéos
Thank you. I hadn't seen your video on the salt hack, but it was pretty impressive that the glue performed despite the added grit
Salt works pretty well!
Thanks Colin for your dedication, it helps us newbies become better woodworkers.
and thank you for watching!
Great tips. For anyone reading for more tips, I'll use a clamp or 2 from the top of my project to the underside of my table but that is usually because it's bowed. Mostly I do it like I cook or any of my hobbies I put some TLC in. If you just pay attention and go back to it to make sure it gets past the slippery stage and you'll have no problem
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Excellent tips!
Thank You!
Great tips Colin. You should do another video on Gluing Hacks for edge gluing (cutting boards, tabletops, etc). I'm sure it would be very beneficial.
Thanks for the idea and thanks for watching!
Wish I watched this video yesterday. Great video as usual.
Thanks for watching!
Nice tips as always Colin :) ॐ
Thank You, Wood Yogi!
Great tips Colin. Thank you.
You're Welcome!
Good tips Colin! Thanks for sharing them with us.😎👍JP
Colin, Thank You Sir!
Thank you for sharing, some great tips
joiners dogs are another way to keep them from moving, and they help to pinch them close too
Thank u,sir. Greetings from Russia, Oufa.
You're Welcome!
Another very enjoyable vid Colin, thanks for that. The clipped-off pins method is how some luthiers ensure fretboards locate correctly when gluing on to a instrument neck. Plenty of good stuff in this one. Thanks again.
Interesting ... You're Welcome!
great tips!! I have done a lot of very novice rough wood working but I am now in my older years, yearning to get into more precise projects. So, the gluing up process, is a new one to me. What I learned first time out is....I need a LOT more clamps!!!! I have always heard you can never have enough clamps and now, I know why!! Varying sizes is as important as numbers. Thanks for the great tips!
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Love the Bynford nailer you have!
Yes, it's a great tool! Thanks for watching!
thank you for all these tips !
You're Welcome!
Pls make a video to explain why AC operated power tools are rated by wattage but portable battery operated power tools are designated by voltage of its battery to indicate its power performance.
Great tips Colin. Thanks for sharing them.
You're Welcome!
Good idea
Thank You!
You're on a roll Colin! The stapler method is new to me too - I'll have to give that a try. I'm guessing there's still a more methods for stopping glue-up wood movement - maybe some of your viewers will submit a few. Thank you.
I'm sure there's many more! Thanks for watching, Don!
I’ve heard of sprinkling a bit of salt on the glued surfaces helps. I haven’t tried it tho. Has anyone done that? I’d be afraid it would create voids. EDIT: I just saw your other video on using sand and such. Thanks!
Good hacks.
Thank You!
Loved the staple hack. A lady wood worker on You Tube suggested using salt to hold the wood in place while clamps are being applied. I have never tried it because I think the salt would affect the wood somehow.
Common sense has told me not to use salt. It will suck the moisture out of the glue and will not cure correctly and become brittle over time. For example, chefs will put salt on meat and veggies to draw out moisture. Also if you watch concrete workers, they will water down the their pours during hot summer days to make it cure slower and thus, make it stronger.
Yes, salt can work in many cases. I did some strength tests on it here th-cam.com/video/1Ai-IQvRDo4/w-d-xo.html
Good tips, as usual.You said with one of the tips, put glue on both pieces. Would like to see a video on that. I have never - or rarely ever used glue on both pieces and have never had a fail.So would be interested in your view.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
What about a few salt grains dropped in the glue?
Great ideas Colin. I love the staple trick, splendidly simple and easy. I think I will use this way from now on. Take care. Tim
You're welcome, Tim! Thanks for watching.
Thank you Sir😊great hacks 😊
You're Welcome!
Great ideas, Colin, thanks sir. (Y)
Stapler is great idea. You forgot to mention obvious you can remove them easily.
I usually just do the clamp trick.
Thanks for watching!
Those are great tips. Thanks for sharing. Number 1 or 2 I'd prefer at my next glue ups.
Number 3 is a little bit confusing. At first is mentioned 18 gauge, later on it's too thick and 23/24 is mentioned and a moment
later 18 gauge again.
Yup, I messed up ... I meant 23 gauge. Thanks for watching.
Use hot hide glue or fish glue it has a very high tack capillary action.
Unlike other adhesives, animal hide glue bonds in two steps. An initial tacking occurs when the glue cools from its application temperature of 140-150° Fahrenheit to about 95°F. The bond becomes complete when the water evaporates out of the glue.
The initial tack allows you to glue two pieces of wood together without clamps. Simply apply the glue to both surfaces and rub the pieces together to work out the excess glue. As the glue cools, it gels and the pieces begin to stick. Position them correctly and let the glue dry to complete the bond.
As long as the pieces are not forced apart while the glue is still in the gel state, the tack is strong enough to create a good bond. On the other hand, if you don’t like the positioning of the pieces, you can separate them for some time before the bond becomes too strong.
The glue blocks you see behind legs and on the inside corners of old case furniture were positioned with this rubbing technique, called a “rub joint.” It’s not uncommon to see glue blocks still sound after 200 years, especially if the grain of both parts runs parallel.
You can use a rub joint to replace broken pieces on carvings, small pieces of veneer, and other parts that would be difficult to clamp. You can also strengthen case furniture by regluing old glue blocks or by inserting new ones. Just be sure to remove chunks of old glue to create room for rubbing, and remember that the surfaces have to fit snugly for a good bond. You can’t glue air spaces.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Or you could sprinkle half a dozen grains of salt (not sugar as it's not sharp enough) on the glue and they will stop the boards from sliding around, plus you don't have holes or metal in your wood for your blades to find later.
Thank you very much for ypur tips i like your channel very much 👍 Your Surname looks like the same word written in German Knecht it means something like Helper Translated, a person that have helpt in the past in a farm and was also living there also like a Knight helper i dont know whats called in english and sorry for my bad english. Have a nice Day :-)
👍
I think a single staple at each end for short jobs would be more than enough, or for extra flavour a pinch of salt :) :)
Yes, in many cases, salt can help. Thanks for watching!
Don't you mean 23 gauge pins? 18 gauge is pretty big.
How did you make the hand plane holder that can be seen on the tool wall ?
Bob Kinsley th-cam.com/video/qY_K458Co7E/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, David
Some good tips. Though I don't prefer to have hidden steel in timberwork the brads or cut nails would be good and quick methods. I really like the staple idea. The only change I would make would be to add them on opposing angles (as a X) as the perpendicular (right angle to the glue face) ones could rack a little and have the boards still slide a little. Cheers for the video..
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
I do the staple trick all the time, figured it was pretty well known. Guess not. ;)
I'm surprised how many people don't know about it. Thanks for watching.
Sure now you show it. After I figure how to stop it
does salt work or is that just an urban legend?
George Moore
watch the previous video...
Yes it works but letting the glue tack up works just fine...I don't like any sort of metal fasteners because blades, be they table saw, jointer, planers blades of any sort do not like encounters with other metals...Go chop an 18 ga. nail in half with your freshly sharpened chisel and weep at the results....
USAGeorge Pa. My chisels aren’t carbide tipped unlike most table and hand held circular saw blades.
I'm using salt all the time for my glueups. It works very well, you don't have to wait for anything and you really don't need that much. It does not affect the wood, paints etc.
If you are having that much of a problem with glue ups sliding around that you need nails and other help to clamp them together you are using entirely to much glue to begin with. When you clamp your work piece together and have more than little beads of glue squeezing out you are just wasting glue. If glue is running down the sides you are just creating more work on yourself because you need to do extra sanding to make sure you remove ALL of the extra glue squeeze out other wise every place the glue was will show in your finish.
If you do put just a little to much glue on do like others said, wait a few minutes for the glue to dry up a little bit, or (with Titebond glue) you can put the 2 pieces together and slide them back and forth and in seconds the 2 pieces will tighten up then put them in position and clamp.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
If your boards are properly jointed / table saw / planed you wont have to deal with this.
I wouldn't risk running anything through my planer or jointer that could have a nail or staple in it.
I don't know if it is a youtube thing but people seem to be using way too much glue. Spread it out with a brush and that's all you need.
Agreed. Apply the glue to one board only then rub the joint with the other board. The thin layer of glue will tack up right away reducing slippage (and less clean up).
I am relatively new to woodworking and have noticed the same thing. Is it really necessary to put thick coats of glue on both sides? Hey, just wonderin...
Yes, using too much glue can be an issue for beginners. Thanks for watching!
Tips 3,4,5 made my thickness plainer cringe a little.
lol ... which is why I included the other ones ;)
Thanks for watching.
thanks for filming. :)
Great tips Colin. Thanks.
You're Welcome!