Glad to see someone else machining ss. Ive been doing it for two weeks straight. All of mine is 304. Finally got some smaller radius inserts and they have been working great on the stainless. I calculated my sfpm and i came up with 539' per minute. That with a feed rate of 9 thou a revolution is giving me a great polished mirror finish. Keep it up man, cant wait for the next episode. Mark
My lathe doesn't have a brake on it so when threading metric threads to a shoulder I disengage the half nut. Then I throw the lathe in reverse and catch the same number I was threading with on the dial with the half nut the first time it comes up. Works like a charm every time. Thanks for explaining your lathe setup, I think every one is completely different
Hi Adam A tip I was taught years and years ago when setting up a gear train is to put a strip of paper between the teeth whilst tightening the adjusting nuts up. This automatically sets a nice clearance between the gears. Wish my little lathe would handle large drills so easily. That Victor sure runs quiet, the foot brake has got me thinking of trying to add one to my lathe, maybe using a pushbike disc brake rotor on the end of the spindle or brake blocks on the motor pulley. Another job for the list.
Disk brake would work but you don't need one. You can use a leather belt and cam arrangement. Simpler and cheaper. In theory if your lathe allows it you could even make it a foot brake. I can't point out the brand of the lathe i saw using this system and i believe it was a diy thing but it was a medium sized lathe with a leather brake. It's smooth, quiet and best part is whenever the leather belt gets worn up, you just slide it to a fresh part. IMO since i work quite a bit with disk brakes is that a disk brake is a temperamental thing that works perfect for the first times you use it but when it gets worn, unless you really know what you're doing it's gonna give you white hairs. Just my 2 cents, of course :) And yeah, the paper between gears is probably the best method. The person who taught me to operate a lathe gave me the same trick since initially i used to stick them a bit too tight (the noise that machine made, like wailing babies).
Another great vid from the shop king..... My kids would rather watch you,Tom,Keith and Chuck than spend any time with me in the shop.. And I mean all my kids, 3 Sons and 2 Daughters. My eldest Daughter was welding and machining at 10 years old, She's now nearly 20 and loves showing her boyfriend up..lol My 16 year old Son is in trade school for Boiler making. But at home would rather watch you lot than get seat time in the shop. The other boys aren't overly interested yet at 9 and 15 they should be close and my 7 year old Daughter has named herself the shop foreman, and by crikey look out if you step out of line. And she too watches you guys and then comes out to the shop to tell me what I'm doing wrong. So I tell her " Darlin yes you are right, but that only applies in America" She is still young enough to believe me.. lol Can't wait for part 2
So its a family thing...Awsome! Good to hear the youngsters are interested in metal work, and that they watch all of the videos here on TH-cam. Tell them Abom says HI! Glad you guys enjoy Matthew!
Hi Adam I was hoping you would discuss stainless steel and work hardening when you were drilling...prevention of! As I was telling you the other day I had to clearance drill about 50 SS bolts for a buddy...I will catch you later to discuss. Enjoyed the video and nice lead in production Chuck
I think sometimes I get busy with what I'm doing and forget to mention everything. But i did touch on the subject, notice I was telling you my speeds, and mention " see, it aint that hard"! LOL Glad you enjoyed Chuck!
Dustin Layne The main thing is to keep your cutting speed *slow*, and keep things cool. Not having your tool rubbing on the surface is a big part of that... Also, billet or bar stock is much less work hardened at the rolling mill when contrasted to strap, sheet, and angle. I've been working with 316L Unistrut (10 gauge, roll-formed = work hardened) and 1/4" thick strip stock at work, where I do not have access to a milling machine. The lab where we are sub-letting space does have decent drill press, but it won't go slower than 450 rpm, and I don't have the freedom to wire in a VFD. 3/4" diameter = 0.2 ft perimeter = ~90 ft/min at 450 rpm > ~50 ft/min = a bit too fast... I've busted more 5/8" & 3/4" drillbits (1 of each!) than I have ever broken before when they seize up as they break through the thin material, work hardened from rolling, despite my liberal use of flood cooling, . (after some trial and error, I found that liberal use of water from a cheap garden sprayer works best in this case) One major problem is that the drillbit expands more than the stock, and wedges into the hole *after* going all the way through. When the bit releases, some of the corner and side grind of the fluting chips off. Anywho, when you have the right tools, and good stock which has not been work hardened before you get to it, you can set your speed to feed right, and most stainless and nickel alloy steel will cut well. When you get stuck in a workshop which is not a full up machine shop, you can get a bit frustrated...
Hi Adam ! I love that material, stainless steel - it has a nice and nearly silver shining glow ... and with your nice and smooth finish, it just look top quality ! - I long to see the threading process !
Great video Adam! I enjoy watching your videos a lot! I am going to school for an industrial mechanic/machinist and your video are very helpful for improving my skills on the lathe and mill! I love working in the shop and you inspire me to work for hours on end! keep up the good work Adam
Adam as usual your information is full of insight. Having just bought a used Victor 16x60 I thank you for the reply to my questions. I have a couple more but another time I have to go make some chips.
When dealing with metric threads and looking for the tap/drill size, you subtract the pitch from the outside diameter and that will give you your drill/bore size. 39-1.5=37.5
metric calculation.... Tap diameter minus thread pitch equals drill size or bore size if you single point the thread. i really hope that helps, Im a young british toolmaker and i love your videos, you do it once and you do it right!!
Dear Adam, haven't been here for a few weeks, been very busy lately didn't have time to catch up (lots of vids to watch! :))... video looks great, I just envy you at how silent your machines works, like the victor. Thank you very much for sharing, -- Arye Segal. :)
Hey Adam, There is actually a way of cutting non native threads (metric on an imperial leadscrew or vise versa) and using the half nuts. With the gear train set up, position the tool a convenient distance away from the end of the work. Run the lathe briefly to take up the lash. Mark a line on the chuck that lines up with a reference point on the headstock. Mark a line on the leadscrew that lines up with a reference on the gearbox. Bring a stop up against the saddle on the right hand side (sometimes you can use the tailstock for the task). As long as the saddle is back against the stop and you engage the half nuts when both lines coincide with their references, everything will synch up. Often keeping the nuts engaged all the time and reversing is more convenient though. With my VFD equipped lathe, I tend to cut all threads that way, using low rpm to cut and high to reverse.
Abom79 Sorry Adam, I didn't word my comment quit right. I use pretty much the same technique you do and my coment was aimed more at other viewers. Many people have formed the impression that it's impossible to release the half nuts, just like some people think that it's impossible to cut threads without angling the compound.
Hah! Of course Adam has a big old metric tap close to the needed size. Man you got a lot of stuff squirreled away in that shop of yours. How much rake was on your rake threading tool? Thanks for another good video. All the best, Tom
Lots of good stuff was collected over the years, and I managed to keep most of it. I've got a plastic bin behind the mill full of metric taps. Lemme know if you to borrow that 40mm tap, I even have two! The round thread turned out nice for what it is. I didn't feel like grinding the tool so I put the files to use. Always a pleasure to hear from you Tom. Thanks.
Hi Abom , lil tip for you : For All metric threads is the rule : diameter - thread pitch = bore size This is for all metric threads. Keep them chips smoking !
Hey Adam, If you need head shaving tips, I can help you out! Just kidding bud, I had a gash on my head in one of my recent videos too... Being a owner of a Grizzly lathe I can tell you quality control is poor but, I have to say that Grizzly does have excellent customer service! I have always keep the half nut locked when metric threading, thought it was the only way with a US lead screw untill I read Paul's comment, I'll have to try his method next time. Great job on the out-board spider so far! Thanks for sharing, Ray
Looking good so far Adam. Waiting for the finale...:-) I also found Imachinist a short time ago.. I like it. Another one I use is Iengineer. It has lots of threads info as well. Hmm, finally found out what the block is for on the Victor! LOL Colin
I used to have iEngineer, but rarely looked at it. I still have all the cool apps, just havn't put them all on my new phone. The iMachinist is perfect for figuring out those bore sizes for large and odd sizes. Thanks Colin!
Great video. I am trying to set up my Craftsman lathe to cut metric. Just need another gear. Backing out of a thread is a lot harder for me, my machine should not be run in reverse because of the threaded chuck.
Hey Adam, cool project thanks for sharing. i'm only at the bottom of the steep learning curve so my question might sound dumb, but I'm confused about the leaving of the half nuts engaged for metric. Thanks again, for all your videos. Billy
Hey Adam. Just saw tour video..excellent work! Hey I have a G0602 and was wondering, the spindle is held on the outboard side with two spanner nuts and there are no exposed threads. Did your friend replace one or both of the nuts with the spider you made? Any info would be greatly appreciated! Learned a lot from you videos. Thanks for taking the time to record them. John
Hi Adam I never seen metric threading but I dont think my lathes are setup to do them. Its about 27 deg here the other day we had 6.5" of snow in three hrs. STR TERRY
Rules of thumb which work for me when working with stainless (mostly 18-8 / 300 series Austenitic in my case)... 1) Keep your edge at ~50 ft/min cutting speed - some of you may have a better number, but slow is your friend. 2) Heat is you enemy - keep things cool - the faster you need to move that cutting edge - say in the case of using a drillpress which won't turn any slower, so your bit is turning at ~90 ft/min - means you need to use lots more coolant than at
Hey Adam, Thanks for the video, as always. Looks like you got a little close there shaving your noggin! Ouch! Regarding the threading on the spindle from Grizzly, that's what you get from a Chinese-made lathe. What ever happened to folks (like you, as well as some other TH-camr's) taking pride in their work and doing the best damn job they could do? Sadly, I fear those days are gone forever! Regards, Dave
Spider nut. I did the exact same threading on this spindle and like you, I found the dimensions to be a bit odd? I started off doing 16TPI which fitted loose but yep... its 1.5mm with a bore of 1.1472. Slightly smaller gives snugger fit. They could have made it a 40mm 1.5 but no... It seems that some people just like to make things interesting for those who need to follow up behind them. Still, you learn things when things aren't made easy I guess.
Nice of you to make that rake piece. Does that lathe slip out of gear without the block-O-steel? And where's the 4" indicator? lol I know, I know, only so many hours in a day... ;o) O,
I wonder is this new spider nut replacing both a ring nut and a locking ring nut. If so is there a risk of it loosening if material slips in the chuck. And more worrying...Are these two ring nuts also the adjustments for the spindle's tapered bearings? If so, then if material slips in the chuck the nut could unscrew and the spindle bearings be opened. If that happens the material will jam further in the tool and...dear me...I hope I'm wrong. Joss from Cork.
ok, as usual bud, nice work - but that music has got my head nodding and my foot tapping. :) I saw that first chip curl and I immediately thought 4140, but I like stainless too. Nice speeds and feeds on that to make it behave.
Ihave a question for you Adam, on this video you mention something about an application on the Apple Smart Phone I don't get it could tell me exactly what it is on TREADING and DRILLING is a formula or a chart. Love your stuff keep up the good job...I am from Quebec Canada
G’Day Adam, Enjoy your videos. You have a great way of sharing your knowledge and experience. I looked for that app you mentioned and found iMachinist but it doesn’t seem to have the same options as the one you used. Can you clarify this please? Cheers, Ken (from Australia)
This is a beginner question and may be obvious, but for facing, turning, drilling, and boring operations, the gear set that you have doesn't really matter? So you can have the gears for a particular thread turning application set up but still get the right feed rates for those other operations?
excellent vid! love lathe work....I have a question for you or anyone else that can help out...I am looking for another lathe that can swing (in a gap is ok) large diam 18+ must be quiet running! like your victor.... do metric and imperial too....being quiet is very important to me and your victor and your monarch seem really quite! any suggestions besides these would be helpful thank you Lawrence
Theres many choices to be had, it all depends on your budget and whats availible to you. The Victor is a good lathe, you just dont see or hear about them much. I've heard good things about Kingston lathes too. But also look for LaBlond, Monarch, and American. Theres lots of good lathes out there to buy, you just have to find them. Even some of the "newer" import lathes arent bad.
Hey Abomb! One of the more difficult thing to do is find a new lathe that one can use for a multitude of tasks at a medium price. I know your time is valuable but lots of people would appreciate your suggestions. Stay healthy my friend!
Does anyone know what formula that app used to figure out the tap drill size? I thought MAJOR DIAMETER - PITCH was the formula (for 75% threads) which should give 37.5 mm (39 - 1.5), but it gave 37.53?
It is worth buying a copy - I have a 24th edition - I'm not a machinist, but I do machining ... it has been a useful book to have. I designed a machine to check curve radius on heritage railways in Oz, and it uses one of the Geometric formula. It takes the increase or decrease of the outer dimension of the Gauge (using a string potentiometer), compares it to the draw bar length. then does a ratio (it uses a Raspberry Pi) and gives the radius in chains and metres. This machine does a lot more than that; it replaces a $2 million machine, with a cost less than $10,000.
thanx. so the gears pretty much drive the carriage and lead screw. not ever seen a lathe in person, only watching your channel. i admire your work and so wish i knew some one that had one or a mill so i could play around
You think you were disappointed to see that factory thread, you should see the quality on the G0602 I received. I named it Shaky Sue Chatterbox, I have to rebuild the whole lathe hand scrap and the whole shebang.
Thanks for the response. it is a shame. Saddest thing is this G0602 was a replacement for a defective G0768. They were going to send me another G0768, but I demanded that it be fully inspected before sent. It failed inspection, so they up graded to the G0602. It has good bones, and can be decent for the cost, but it is not worth the work. I should have saved my money and bought one with a rep. 3 bad Grizzly's in a row.....coincidence? Love the vids, keep it up. Thanks.
Why do machinists cut right to left? Left to right would avoid having to stop so accurately in many situations. You can imagine the number of crashes avoided in HS shop classes.
Glad to see someone else machining ss. Ive been doing it for two weeks straight. All of mine is 304. Finally got some smaller radius inserts and they have been working great on the stainless. I calculated my sfpm and i came up with 539' per minute. That with a feed rate of 9 thou a revolution is giving me a great polished mirror finish. Keep it up man, cant wait for the next episode.
Mark
My lathe doesn't have a brake on it so when threading metric threads to a shoulder I disengage the half nut. Then I throw the lathe in reverse and catch the same number I was threading with on the dial with the half nut the first time it comes up. Works like a charm every time. Thanks for explaining your lathe setup, I think every one is completely different
Hi Adam
A tip I was taught years and years ago when setting up a gear train is to put a strip of paper between the teeth whilst tightening the adjusting nuts up. This automatically sets a nice clearance between the gears. Wish my little lathe would handle large drills so easily. That Victor sure runs quiet, the foot brake has got me thinking of trying to add one to my lathe, maybe using a pushbike disc brake rotor on the end of the spindle or brake blocks on the motor pulley. Another job for the list.
Disk brake would work but you don't need one. You can use a leather belt and cam arrangement. Simpler and cheaper.
In theory if your lathe allows it you could even make it a foot brake. I can't point out the brand of the lathe i saw using this system and i believe it was a diy thing but it was a medium sized lathe with a leather brake. It's smooth, quiet and best part is whenever the leather belt gets worn up, you just slide it to a fresh part.
IMO since i work quite a bit with disk brakes is that a disk brake is a temperamental thing that works perfect for the first times you use it but when it gets worn, unless you really know what you're doing it's gonna give you white hairs. Just my 2 cents, of course :)
And yeah, the paper between gears is probably the best method. The person who taught me to operate a lathe gave me the same trick since initially i used to stick them a bit too tight (the noise that machine made, like wailing babies).
I've used that trick before, but sometimes I gage it by sight and feel.
Thanks Stephen.
I like that idea of a leather belt, thanks very much for the idea.
Another great vid from the shop king.....
My kids would rather watch you,Tom,Keith and Chuck than spend any time with me in the shop.. And I mean all my kids, 3 Sons and 2 Daughters. My eldest Daughter was welding and machining at 10 years old, She's now nearly 20 and loves showing her boyfriend up..lol My 16 year old Son is in trade school for Boiler making. But at home would rather watch you lot than get seat time in the shop. The other boys aren't overly interested yet at 9 and 15 they should be close and my 7 year old Daughter has named herself the shop foreman, and by crikey look out if you step out of line. And she too watches you guys and then comes out to the shop to tell me what I'm doing wrong. So I tell her " Darlin yes you are right, but that only applies in America" She is still young enough to believe me.. lol Can't wait for part 2
So its a family thing...Awsome! Good to hear the youngsters are interested in metal work, and that they watch all of the videos here on TH-cam. Tell them Abom says HI!
Glad you guys enjoy Matthew!
That big ol' lathe works that stainless like butter. Very Nice! I like that push button oil can too! Thanks Adam! Keep on Keepin' on!
Hi Adam
I was hoping you would discuss stainless steel and work hardening when you were drilling...prevention of!
As I was telling you the other day I had to clearance drill about 50 SS bolts for a buddy...I will catch you later to discuss.
Enjoyed the video and nice lead in production
Chuck
I think sometimes I get busy with what I'm doing and forget to mention everything. But i did touch on the subject, notice I was telling you my speeds, and mention " see, it aint that hard"! LOL
Glad you enjoyed Chuck!
The big thing I was always told to do to prevent work hardening was.. Don't let the tool dwell. Keep it cutting or get it out of there.
Dustin Layne The main thing is to keep your cutting speed *slow*, and keep things cool. Not having your tool rubbing on the surface is a big part of that...
Also, billet or bar stock is much less work hardened at the rolling mill when contrasted to strap, sheet, and angle.
I've been working with 316L Unistrut (10 gauge, roll-formed = work hardened) and 1/4" thick strip stock at work, where I do not have access to a milling machine.
The lab where we are sub-letting space does have decent drill press, but it won't go slower than 450 rpm, and I don't have the freedom to wire in a VFD.
3/4" diameter = 0.2 ft perimeter = ~90 ft/min at 450 rpm > ~50 ft/min = a bit too fast...
I've busted more 5/8" & 3/4" drillbits (1 of each!) than I have ever broken before when they seize up as they break through the thin material, work hardened from rolling, despite my liberal use of flood cooling, . (after some trial and error, I found that liberal use of water from a cheap garden sprayer works best in this case)
One major problem is that the drillbit expands more than the stock, and wedges into the hole *after* going all the way through. When the bit releases, some of the corner and side grind of the fluting chips off.
Anywho, when you have the right tools, and good stock which has not been work hardened before you get to it, you can set your speed to feed right, and most stainless and nickel alloy steel will cut well.
When you get stuck in a workshop which is not a full up machine shop, you can get a bit frustrated...
Hi Adam !
I love that material, stainless steel - it has a nice and nearly silver shining glow ... and with your nice and smooth finish, it just look top quality !
- I long to see the threading process !
Man your drill bits are sharpen to perfection. Great job
Thanks Stevo!
Another great video, it was good to see your mom again on the other video,
thanks.
Great video Adam!
I enjoy watching your videos a lot! I am going to school for an industrial mechanic/machinist and your video are very helpful for improving my skills on the lathe and mill! I love working in the shop and you inspire me to work for hours on end! keep up the good work Adam
Adam as usual your information is full of insight. Having just bought a used Victor 16x60 I thank you for the reply to my questions. I have a couple more but another time I have to go make some chips.
Another fine job you completed nice work and threading.
Manny
I wish I could sharpen drill bits as well as you do. Guess I need more practice.
Super video Adam. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Herb, get to practicing!
When dealing with metric threads and looking for the tap/drill size, you subtract the pitch from the outside diameter and that will give you your drill/bore size. 39-1.5=37.5
I never knew, that you had to leave the half nuts engaged, while cutting a metric thread. Thanks Adam..
metric calculation.... Tap diameter minus thread pitch equals drill size or bore size if you single point the thread. i really hope that helps, Im a young british toolmaker and i love your videos, you do it once and you do it right!!
Dear Adam, haven't been here for a few weeks, been very busy lately didn't have time to catch up (lots of vids to watch! :))... video looks great, I just envy you at how silent your machines works, like the victor.
Thank you very much for sharing,
-- Arye Segal. :)
Hey Adam,
There is actually a way of cutting non native threads (metric on an imperial leadscrew or vise versa) and using the half nuts.
With the gear train set up, position the tool a convenient distance away from the end of the work. Run the lathe briefly to take up the lash. Mark a line on the chuck that lines up with a reference point on the headstock. Mark a line on the leadscrew that lines up with a reference on the gearbox. Bring a stop up against the saddle on the right hand side (sometimes you can use the tailstock for the task).
As long as the saddle is back against the stop and you engage the half nuts when both lines coincide with their references, everything will synch up. Often keeping the nuts engaged all the time and reversing is more convenient though. With my VFD equipped lathe, I tend to cut all threads that way, using low rpm to cut and high to reverse.
I know theres other ways around it, but the way I'm showing you is how I do the process on my machines. It's what I'm used to.
Thanks Paul.
Abom79 Sorry Adam, I didn't word my comment quit right.
I use pretty much the same technique you do and my coment was aimed more at other viewers.
Many people have formed the impression that it's impossible to release the half nuts, just like some people think that it's impossible to cut threads without angling the compound.
Hah!
Of course Adam has a big old metric tap close to the needed size. Man you got a lot of stuff squirreled away in that shop of yours. How much rake was on your rake threading tool?
Thanks for another good video. All the best,
Tom
Lots of good stuff was collected over the years, and I managed to keep most of it. I've got a plastic bin behind the mill full of metric taps. Lemme know if you to borrow that 40mm tap, I even have two!
The round thread turned out nice for what it is. I didn't feel like grinding the tool so I put the files to use.
Always a pleasure to hear from you Tom. Thanks.
Liked the Video Quick Draw, keep them coming.
See ya
Mark
Hi Abom , lil tip for you :
For All metric threads is the rule :
diameter - thread pitch = bore size
This is for all metric threads.
Keep them chips smoking !
As usual, another great video Adam!!! Thank you
adam's the man! thanks for all your videos
Really nice video editing. Very professional feel.
Man those drills must be sharp and of real good steel.
Hey Adam,
If you need head shaving tips, I can help you out! Just kidding bud, I had a gash on my head in one of my recent videos too... Being a owner of a Grizzly lathe I can tell you quality control is poor but, I have to say that Grizzly does have excellent customer service! I have always keep the half nut locked when metric threading, thought it was the only way with a US lead screw untill I read Paul's comment, I'll have to try his method next time. Great job on the out-board spider so far!
Thanks for sharing,
Ray
Looking good so far Adam. Waiting for the finale...:-)
I also found Imachinist a short time ago.. I like it. Another one I use is Iengineer. It has lots of threads info as well.
Hmm, finally found out what the block is for on the Victor! LOL
Colin
I used to have iEngineer, but rarely looked at it. I still have all the cool apps, just havn't put them all on my new phone. The iMachinist is perfect for figuring out those bore sizes for large and odd sizes.
Thanks Colin!
Geez, I have an app for almost everything I'm too lazy to figure out... geometry, trig, aggregate, etc.... :-)
Great video. I am trying to set up my Craftsman lathe to cut metric. Just need another gear. Backing out of a thread is a lot harder for me, my machine should not be run in reverse because of the threaded chuck.
Running a threaded chuck in reverse is too risky for my taste. The drank is a good idea. Still I need to get the gears right first.
Great video, thanks!
Hey Adam,
cool project thanks for sharing. i'm only at the bottom of the steep learning curve so my question might sound dumb, but I'm confused about the leaving of the half nuts engaged for metric.
Thanks again, for all your videos.
Billy
Hey Adam. Just saw tour video..excellent work! Hey I have a G0602 and was wondering, the spindle is held on the outboard side with two spanner nuts and there are no exposed threads. Did your friend replace one or both of the nuts with the spider you made? Any info would be greatly appreciated! Learned a lot from you videos. Thanks for taking the time to record them. John
Too funny Adam, I just made this video last night ER 32 tailstock chuck part 4 Yeah, you cant disengage the half nut (like I did)!
Love your new theme music! RAR Bro!
Hi Adam I never seen metric threading but I dont think my lathes are setup to do them. Its about 27 deg here the other day we had 6.5" of snow in three hrs. STR TERRY
Rules of thumb which work for me when working with stainless (mostly 18-8 / 300 series Austenitic in my case)...
1) Keep your edge at ~50 ft/min cutting speed - some of you may have a better number, but slow is your friend.
2) Heat is you enemy - keep things cool - the faster you need to move that cutting edge - say in the case of using a drillpress which won't turn any slower, so your bit is turning at ~90 ft/min - means you need to use lots more coolant than at
Hey Adam,
Thanks for the video, as always. Looks like you got a little close there shaving your noggin! Ouch! Regarding the threading on the spindle from Grizzly, that's what you get from a Chinese-made lathe. What ever happened to folks (like you, as well as some other TH-camr's) taking pride in their work and doing the best damn job they could do? Sadly, I fear those days are gone forever!
Regards,
Dave
Its been proven that import quality isnt always so good. We've all seen it. They care more about production than quality.
Thanks Dave.
Smooth close shave brother.. ouch.
Spider nut. I did the exact same threading on this spindle and like you, I found the dimensions to be a bit odd? I started off doing 16TPI which fitted loose but yep... its 1.5mm with a bore of 1.1472. Slightly smaller gives snugger fit. They could have made it a 40mm 1.5 but no... It seems that some people just like to make things interesting for those who need to follow up behind them. Still, you learn things when things aren't made easy I guess.
Nice of you to make that rake piece. Does that lathe slip out of gear without the block-O-steel? And where's the 4" indicator? lol I know, I know, only so many hours in a day... ;o)
O,
I wonder is this new spider nut replacing both a ring nut and a locking ring nut. If so is there a risk of it loosening if material slips in the chuck. And more worrying...Are these two ring nuts also the adjustments for the spindle's tapered bearings? If so, then if material slips in the chuck the nut could unscrew and the spindle bearings be opened. If that happens the material will jam further in the tool and...dear me...I hope I'm wrong. Joss from Cork.
ok, as usual bud, nice work - but that music has got my head nodding and my foot tapping. :)
I saw that first chip curl and I immediately thought 4140, but I like stainless too. Nice speeds and feeds on that to make it behave.
Ihave a question for you Adam, on this video you mention something about an application on the Apple Smart Phone I don't get it could tell me exactly what it is on TREADING and DRILLING is a formula or a chart. Love your stuff keep up the good job...I am from Quebec Canada
G’Day Adam,
Enjoy your videos. You have a great way of sharing your knowledge and experience.
I looked for that app you mentioned and found iMachinist but it doesn’t seem to have the same options as the one you used.
Can you clarify this please?
Cheers,
Ken (from Australia)
This is a beginner question and may be obvious, but for facing, turning, drilling, and boring operations, the gear set that you have doesn't really matter? So you can have the gears for a particular thread turning application set up but still get the right feed rates for those other operations?
What happened to James Green? He had some gunsmith videos etc. dont see them now...Thanks
excellent vid! love lathe work....I have a question for you or anyone else that can help out...I am looking for another lathe that can swing (in a gap is ok) large diam 18+ must be quiet running! like your victor.... do metric and imperial too....being quiet is very important to me and your victor and your monarch seem really quite! any suggestions besides these would be helpful thank you
Lawrence
Theres many choices to be had, it all depends on your budget and whats availible to you. The Victor is a good lathe, you just dont see or hear about them much. I've heard good things about Kingston lathes too. But also look for LaBlond, Monarch, and American. Theres lots of good lathes out there to buy, you just have to find them. Even some of the "newer" import lathes arent bad.
Man I like those pliers you could be in Mobile and grab chips in Pensacola
Another nice video :-)
Hey Abomb! One of the more difficult thing to do is find a new lathe that one can use for a multitude of tasks at a medium price. I know your time is valuable but lots of people would appreciate your suggestions. Stay healthy my friend!
What would you charge to make a spider nut for a G0602 for a feller? I have the same lathe and I need a way to thread rifle barrels?
Where can I get parts for my victor lathe. I purchased second hand with no spare parts like the gears
hey Adam why dont you built a vice from solid steel ?
Adam, I am Jack, Olivia's husband, does the magnets effect the accuracy of your gauges in any way?
Does anyone know what formula that app used to figure out the tap drill size? I thought MAJOR DIAMETER - PITCH was the formula (for 75% threads) which should give 37.5 mm (39 - 1.5), but it gave 37.53?
how much are you selling the aluminum rake attachments for ?
iMachinist is "not currently available" on iTunes, any other suggestions?
Have you seen a general info ref like Machinery's Handbook?
It is worth buying a copy - I have a 24th edition - I'm not a machinist, but I do machining ... it has been a useful book to have. I designed a machine to check curve radius on heritage railways in Oz, and it uses one of the Geometric formula. It takes the increase or decrease of the outer dimension of the Gauge (using a string potentiometer), compares it to the draw bar length. then does a ratio (it uses a Raspberry Pi) and gives the radius in chains and metres. This machine does a lot more than that; it replaces a $2 million machine, with a cost less than $10,000.
Adam can i know which year your victor lathe is made?
so Adam what drives the spindle on the victor? belt or gear? and is the drive for it inside the head stock? thanx
It's a belt drive. The motor is housed near the bottom of the machine and the belts drive the spindle.
thanx. so the gears pretty much drive the carriage and lead screw. not ever seen a lathe in person, only watching your channel. i admire your work and so wish i knew some one that had one or a mill so i could play around
What lubricates the change gears?
What type of collets does that collet chuck use?
Hardinge 2J
do u recycle the chips
Bloody fresh shave? Adam, looks like it's just some bad English on your cue ball...lol
You think you were disappointed to see that factory thread, you should see the quality on the G0602 I received. I named it Shaky Sue Chatterbox, I have to rebuild the whole lathe hand scrap and the whole shebang.
That's a shame
Thanks for the response. it is a shame. Saddest thing is this G0602 was a replacement for a defective G0768. They were going to send me another G0768, but I demanded that it be fully inspected before sent. It failed inspection, so they up graded to the G0602. It has good bones, and can be decent for the cost, but it is not worth the work. I should have saved my money and bought one with a rep. 3 bad Grizzly's in a row.....coincidence? Love the vids, keep it up. Thanks.
Why do machinists cut right to left? Left to right would avoid having to stop so accurately in many situations. You can imagine the number of crashes avoided in HS shop classes.
Toby W it's a lot harder to cut left to right on a lathe don know why but it's just not natural
It occurred to me this morning that cutting to the right without a tailstock would tend to pull the work out of the chuck.
I was standing at a Victor as a small boy.. its too small for you Adam...! ! Its not stiff enough to handle 250 Pound