If it still sags a bit you could always add a leaf or two from your old springs. Done that before on jeeps. Need longer u bolts and centre bolts but did the trick. Good job
I just done replacing the leaf springs on my 2004 f250. I had to also cut the shackles on both sides. Your video helped me with preparing for the job. Thank you
Hello Sir, i gotta the same probleme with my F250 2004, can you tell me watch it is the part number did you use for replace your leaf spring rear. Thanks
I learned last night there’s just about no other way but to cut the bolt on the bottom of the rear shackle. I used an angle grinder and I cut the top bolt as well to get the leaf spring out of the way. I’ll save some time today doing the other side and just start with the grinder. I tried everything. Air hammer. Torch sawzall wd40 Pb blaster. Nothing would move it. So I very carefully cut those bolts out
Man, those leafs must be really tough. Using a 00 F250 4x4 w/a 7.3 diesel. and a gooseneck trailer. I hauled a JCB 270T skidsteer with a tree sheer and a 86 Suzuki Samurai. Out of the rough, steep road leaving Davis Mtn. Resort (TX) It was a unusually rough ride till the pavement. Only able to go maybe 15-20mph. After off loading it all, every lower, forward section of both leafs had broken and fell off. With just the top left in the shackles. The truck is a low mile, one owner from CO. with under coating. But cracking and falling off, revealing lots of surface rust. Which i think is the reason for the problem. Not the weight. Look close at trucks from those areas. Old under coating, holds in as much moisture as it once kept out!!
Ive and buddys have reused plenty of u-bolts without any failures same goes for ring gear bolts and head studs. If their not too old or in that bad of shape just run em
Im having a terrible time loosening the rear, right shackle bolt. Because of the old under coat. Which is a different size than the others (13/16 or 21mm) Pre sprayed it all with Kroil and tried my air impact. With no luck. Gonna try again today w/a 48in breaker bar. By the way, if you have to reuse the old rear shackles. Use a wire gun bore cleaner, in a cordless drill. To clean and smooth them back out and follow with ceramic brake grease & anti seize copper coat on the threads.
Now you've got that nice Tipper body on and can get at the chassis , the old girl could do with a lick of paint . Thanks for posting the video , I always prefer to watch someone else change leaf springs and battle the inevitable rusty bolts. thank heaven for WD 40.
I had to replace the shackles on my Chevy 2500HD. Real pita, same orientation as yours. I ended up cutting the heads off the top bolts and pulling them off w/the nut and washers, since I had new hardware with the new shackles. Yes, those bushings get very attached to the bolts.
Nice job, always is great to fix up and breathe new life into good equipment. I truly believe in, "If you take care of your equipment, it will take care of you."
Yep, I didn't get video, but we replaced rear axle bearings and seals, and the driveshaft got new bearings. I figure this truck is pulling or loaded down for half it's miles or more.
few know how unless you are flush with cash then farming requires lots of ratchets and wrenches being turned by the hand of the farmer. BTOs just ride up to the dealer and ask how's it going every few days as they check on their repairs. good real life video.
Good job! Have you ever looked into air bag overloads? I went that direction 2 trucks ago and love them. I tend to really load my truck and they make it a non-issue and work even better when I'm hooked to a heavy tongue gooseneck.
Hard work my friend you should have turned that one bolt around when you put the spring back in next time you wouldn't have had to take the shackle out of the hanger
Boehm Farm put the nut on the Bolt then cut it with a cut wheel gently taper all the way around the tip of the bolt then take the nut off that'll ensure the threads are there so you can get it back on my F450 I cut 7/8 of the threads off so next time I didn't have to pull the shackle off if I have to pull with the springs
Bolts are not cheap my front spring hanger bolts were $25.00 each to replace . I just torched my u-bolts off way quicker and replaced with new ones using old ones is not a good idea.
That's one thing that's different about your forklift, it has real forklift forks... mine has forks made out of steel tubing, 2x4 steel tubing. The ends are pointed welded together steel and they are joined to the uprights going up to the adjustable cross-beam solid steel shaft that the forks attach to with welded on steel tubing that slides over, and the clamps to keep them where they belong at whatever spacing you set. The forklift forks would be MUCH stronger and tougher, wish I had them on mine. I haven't bent or broken mine, but they look a touch "tweaked" if you know what I mean. The top pipes that fit over the cross-shaft have wallered out a bit on mine so the forks are a little sloppy and flop a little side to side... OL J R :)
3/4 and 19mm are as close as dammit, as are 15/16 and 24mm. 1/2 and 13mm are close and 11/16 is a tad bigger than 17mm. 1’1/16 and 27 are also very close.
I did indeed but we use them so rarely now they tend to get consigned to older tool boxes!! Especially the lesser used ones. The last new set of imperial spanner’s that my dad bought could be 30 years ago!!!! However I do use the imperial system with our metric, well I spray litres per acre with a 40 foot boom at 45psi or 3bar, forward speed is usually in km thanks to my cheap and cheerful light bar GPS. . Dry fertiliser is still in cwts per acre, tyre pressure is psi tyres are a laugh because widths are metric like 520’s or 650’s but are on 38””rims!! More and more metric is taking over but I just can’t think in hectares!!
@@alastairmccormick9657 Yeah hectares are just crazy... impossible to visualize LOL:) Sounds like some of the Canadian farmers with the mixed units... I'm glad we dropped metric for most things (scientists still use it and it has its place, but for a lot of things when you're used to imperial it's just so much easier... OL J R :)
Going to replace springs in one of my half tons I overload all the time.did u get a beaver spring or higher tensile strength or something.how much did replacements help
They are a direct replacement. They helped tremendously because the passenger side always sunk more than the driver side. We think one of the leafs had cracked.
Hey you going to change the shocks to Yeah them projects turn fast into a can of worms . Repair jobs are like seating down to eat,we forget what is involve to prepare the meal , same goes with farming the land
next time leave the bolt in the front of the spring and lose this bottom bolt. you may be the one twisting it, if you watch the video you can see with each heavy lift it twists a little and your fighting against yourself but still helpful
Buy springs manufactured in the US where quality specs are tight so each set of springs match. I never thought about alignment for the back because nothing is adjustable and the frame has never been bent.
Don't bother taking the nuts off the u bolts... use new u bolts and nuts. U bolts are one use only... they can develop stresses and cracks that are not easily visible.
Let's just hope is one of those hippie pipes! haha Breaker bars are limited in tighter spaces for range of motion. The ratchet only needs a few degrees to reset. And if the ratchet breaks, it;s craftsman, so free replacement.
You are a jack of all trades! Good work, thanks for letting us watch.
If it still sags a bit you could always add a leaf or two from your old springs. Done that before on jeeps. Need longer u bolts and centre bolts but did the trick. Good job
Well, that's always an option. We will see how well it handles a load of corn Monday.
Great job done Jacob you and your Dad make a good team .
Thank you
Your just happier than all get out , you seem like a good man
I just done replacing the leaf springs on my 2004 f250. I had to also cut the shackles on both sides. Your video helped me with preparing for the job. Thank you
Hello Sir, i gotta the same probleme with my F250 2004, can you tell me watch it is the part number did you use for replace your leaf spring rear. Thanks
@@joelkinavuidi6134 I looked at advanced auto parts. If you got time use rock auto. Sorry I did not respond sooner
I learned last night there’s just about no other way but to cut the bolt on the bottom of the rear shackle. I used an angle grinder and I cut the top bolt as well to get the leaf spring out of the way. I’ll save some time today doing the other side and just start with the grinder. I tried everything. Air hammer. Torch sawzall wd40 Pb blaster. Nothing would move it. So I very carefully cut those bolts out
Man, those leafs must be really tough. Using a 00 F250 4x4 w/a 7.3 diesel. and a gooseneck trailer. I hauled a JCB 270T
skidsteer with a tree sheer and a 86 Suzuki Samurai. Out of the rough, steep road leaving Davis Mtn. Resort (TX) It was a unusually rough ride till the pavement. Only able to go maybe 15-20mph. After off loading it all, every lower, forward section of both leafs had broken and fell off. With just the top left in the shackles. The truck is a low mile, one owner from CO. with under coating. But cracking and falling off, revealing lots of surface rust. Which i think is the reason for the problem. Not the weight. Look close at trucks from those areas. Old under coating, holds in as much moisture as it once kept out!!
Job well done! It's always fun working with rusty bolts!!
New bolts shouldn't need working on.
U bolts are torque to yield.
One time use
Just cut em’ off with cut off wheel
Ive and buddys have reused plenty of u-bolts without any failures same goes for ring gear bolts and head studs. If their not too old or in that bad of shape just run em
Im having a terrible time loosening the rear, right shackle bolt. Because of the old under coat. Which is a different size than the others (13/16 or 21mm) Pre sprayed it all with Kroil and tried my air impact. With no luck. Gonna try again today w/a 48in breaker bar. By the way, if you have to reuse the old rear shackles. Use a wire gun bore cleaner, in a cordless drill. To clean and smooth them back out and follow with ceramic brake grease & anti seize copper coat on the threads.
Thanks for sharing your work. Much appreciated.
Now you've got that nice Tipper body on and can get at the chassis , the old girl could do with a lick of paint . Thanks for posting the video , I always prefer to watch someone else change leaf springs and battle the inevitable rusty bolts. thank heaven for WD 40.
I realized the convenience of out bed conversion about half way through the project.
I had to replace the shackles on my Chevy 2500HD. Real pita, same orientation as yours. I ended up cutting the heads off the top bolts and pulling them off w/the nut and washers, since I had new hardware with the new shackles. Yes, those bushings get very attached to the bolts.
Wasn't having the bed on really annoying?
Boehm Farm Yes it was, you were lucky to have the dump bed. Really hard to get an air hammer in there with a fender lol
They should make a big difference.....Good video ! Thx
Good video! Might need to add a leaf there soon if your hauling a lot.
We get out use of loading it down. I'll see what happens when I load it with corn tomorrow.
Nice job, always is great to fix up and breathe new life into good equipment.
I truly believe in, "If you take care of your equipment, it will take care of you."
Yep, I didn't get video, but we replaced rear axle bearings and seals, and the driveshaft got new bearings. I figure this truck is pulling or loaded down for half it's miles or more.
make sure u go buy new bolts for the axles the threads stretch and they are only good for one use or else they come loose or break
Hmmmm, well, we reused the old ones. I'll check to see if they are loose.
at least thats what iv always been told is to never re use them , iv seen several cases where they come loose from people re using them as well
few know how unless you are flush with cash then farming requires lots of ratchets and wrenches being turned by the hand of the farmer. BTOs just ride up to the dealer and ask how's it going every few days as they check on their repairs. good real life video.
I amazed yall didn't upgrade to f-350 leafs.
Good job! Have you ever looked into air bag overloads? I went that direction 2 trucks ago and love them. I tend to really load my truck and they make it a non-issue and work even better when I'm hooked to a heavy tongue gooseneck.
No I have not. I shall investigate.
well done guy's
Thank you
Last time I did that I cheated and blasted a small hole in the frame with the torch so I could get the top bolt out of the shackle.
thats dumb
"Most annoying thing ever"..This is when we took off to go get the torches.
Hard work my friend you should have turned that one bolt around when you put the spring back in next time you wouldn't have had to take the shackle out of the hanger
It's turned around because the end if the threads will hit the hanger.
Boehm Farm put the nut on the Bolt then cut it with a cut wheel gently taper all the way around the tip of the bolt then take the nut off that'll ensure the threads are there so you can get it back on my F450 I cut 7/8 of the threads off so next time I didn't have to pull the shackle off if I have to pull with the springs
Did you replace with f250 or f350 springs they fit straight across and the extra leaf comes in handy some times.
They sell the same springs for the 250 and single wheel 350s.
Need to pick up a set of over load springs for it
That would be a good idea.
My rear leaf springs are shot. I think i can mange that as well. Thanks!
I am going to do a Air Bag add to one of my pickups that way i can adjust things for load and dont bounce my butt off on empty road trips lol
I shall look into that now.
Airbags!👍👍
Thanks for the video 👍
Hey at least it was warm for a while but back to wet at least here in NW Ohio
Yep, wet here too.
First. Great job you guys (and Shilo) tough but rewarding work. Nice to be working outside also.
Any sign of your ground warming up yet for sowing?
hahaha, still too wet, and no where near warm enough, We can't 70 degree days to save our life.
Bolts are not cheap my front spring hanger bolts were $25.00 each to replace . I just torched my u-bolts off way quicker and replaced with new ones using old ones is not a good idea.
That's one thing that's different about your forklift, it has real forklift forks... mine has forks made out of steel tubing, 2x4 steel tubing. The ends are pointed welded together steel and they are joined to the uprights going up to the adjustable cross-beam solid steel shaft that the forks attach to with welded on steel tubing that slides over, and the clamps to keep them where they belong at whatever spacing you set. The forklift forks would be MUCH stronger and tougher, wish I had them on mine. I haven't bent or broken mine, but they look a touch "tweaked" if you know what I mean. The top pipes that fit over the cross-shaft have wallered out a bit on mine so the forks are a little sloppy and flop a little side to side... OL J R :)
Looks like it's time for a corded Milwaukee impact
I have never seen a corded impact, only air or batteries.
@@boehmfarm4276 They are out there but lack the beasty Foot/pounds of the cordless version.
Mellow Man! 😁
It's a familiar struggle. Life in the rust belt.
Yeah, road salt.....
3/4 and 19mm are as close as dammit, as are 15/16 and 24mm. 1/2 and 13mm are close and 11/16 is a tad bigger than 17mm. 1’1/16 and 27 are also very close.
You forgot 9/16 and 14mm.
I did indeed but we use them so rarely now they tend to get consigned to older tool boxes!! Especially the lesser used ones. The last new set of imperial spanner’s that my dad bought could be 30 years ago!!!! However I do use the imperial system with our metric, well I spray litres per acre with a 40 foot boom at 45psi or 3bar, forward speed is usually in km thanks to my cheap and cheerful light bar GPS. . Dry fertiliser is still in cwts per acre, tyre pressure is psi tyres are a laugh because widths are metric like 520’s or 650’s but are on 38””rims!!
More and more metric is taking over but I just can’t think in hectares!!
@@alastairmccormick9657 Yeah hectares are just crazy... impossible to visualize LOL:) Sounds like some of the Canadian farmers with the mixed units... I'm glad we dropped metric for most things (scientists still use it and it has its place, but for a lot of things when you're used to imperial it's just so much easier... OL J R :)
Going to replace springs in one of my half tons I overload all the time.did u get a beaver spring or higher tensile strength or something.how much did replacements help
They are a direct replacement. They helped tremendously because the passenger side always sunk more than the driver side. We think one of the leafs had cracked.
Hey you going to change the shocks to Yeah them projects turn fast into a can of worms . Repair jobs are like seating down to eat,we forget what is involve to prepare the meal , same goes with farming the land
The truck could use shocks. I have come to learn activities go four times faster in my head.
top
should have added a extra leaf!! I allways did on half tons
next time leave the bolt in the front of the spring and lose this bottom bolt. you may be the one twisting it, if you watch the video you can see with each heavy lift it twists a little and your fighting against yourself but still helpful
Cut the u bolts and spray penetrating oil on them or heat them up geez
How do you ensure the rear axle alignment is correct with the new springs?
Buy springs manufactured in the US where quality specs are tight so each set of springs match. I never thought about alignment for the back because nothing is adjustable and the frame has never been bent.
If that is a Ford F series prior to 2003, it has 150 ft/lbs torque. In other words, it's PDT(Pretty Damn Tight).
It is a 2004.
sweet a year older than my newest SD. 6.0 diesel?
It's a 5.4.
why not go the cheaper re arch old ones route?
I think the passenger side had a cracked leaf.
Now would have been the time to add an extra leaf......
Agree
If they're not broke I will not replace them just put airbags on it
Don't bother taking the nuts off the u bolts... use new u bolts and nuts. U bolts are one use only... they can develop stresses and cracks that are not easily visible.
Another Video where they dont use Penetrating Oil. Spray, wait a few Mins, push/pull Wrench - repeat
hi ya know me sorry for bein late beacuse i was on motorcycle i dont care that im 10 year old
why the hell dont u use a breaker bar. that dam ratchet breaks you be eatting pipe for a year
Let's just hope is one of those hippie pipes! haha
Breaker bars are limited in tighter spaces for range of motion. The ratchet only needs a few degrees to reset. And if the ratchet breaks, it;s craftsman, so free replacement.
👍👌🇨🇦❤
air bags .......
Boehm farm....hmmmmm. My Grandmother's maiden name was Boehm. Are you in Ohio?
Yes, near Cincinnati.
I watched your video just to see how you removed that stuck bolt. . . and you just skipped past it... grrr.
Probably lots of grinding.
Less yapping more showing we are guys not women.
If it works do it i always say lol
TH-cam ayuda mucho
Heaver not beaver.stupid spell check. Lol