European here 🙋🏻♂️. I have 3 SHARP LCD tv's - 1 I bought years ago for the bedroom and 2 second hand I bought as back ups recently. Model number is LC-19D1E or LC-19A1E (-BK or -WH for the colour of the case). They have Analogue and Digital tv (except the 19A1E), HDMI, composite, Component, S-video, VGA and SCART which has RGB inputs. Colour decoding is PAL, PAL-60, NTSC and SECAM. It's 16:9 but does an excellent 4:3 (my default for my retro computers) and works with difficult computers where other LCD tv's struggle. 👌🏼
How is the sound? That's the thing I love about these LCD televisions from the early 2000s.. they usually have good speakers. These days they want to make them so thin and the speakers are terrible. Epesically because they consider anything in that size range to be "low end" these days.
It's also a cost saving thing. Older tvs spent decent money on the sound. My 52" Sony from 2008 sounds great and you can clearly hear the relay kicking in when turning on the audio amp. It even supports attaching external unpowered speakers. Meanwhile my 2017 55" 4K Sony sounds about on par with the 13" black and white Zenith I had growing up.
I remember on one or both of my projectors, there is a "full" vs "limited" RGB mode, where the limited crushed the blacks just like this, resulting in overall lower contrast ratio. If the monitor doesn't have a setting, you can alternatively send a limited RGB signal from the source. If you can't do that, then you're SOL. "Jack of all trades; master of none"
@11:27, if you see the middle black bar, (on an analog set) it means your brightness is too high. It should not be visible. The Sony TV's digital NTSC decoder, like a number of others brands, correctly clamped out that negative brightness bar all to the digital black. (As you said black crush (which is actually something a little different...)) If you see the just above black grey bar to the right, you are seeing everything. Though, when it comes to testing cheaply constructed analog video from sources like a C64, (not exactly following the pure dead accurate SMPTE digital video levels found coming from modern digital sources), there is some value in having a brightness adjustment which allows you to see video content below the official reference black when turning up a 'brightness' control.
I picked up the 23" version of this monitor after watching this video and it works great in a world where CRT brands that were crap in the 80's and 90's are going for hundreds today.
I had a Dell Ultrasharp 2408WFP monitor - 1920x1200 16:10 with VGA, HDMI, Displayport, 2x DVI, S-Video, Component and Composite - probably the best monitor I've owned and certainly the most versatile - eventually it started giving issues and a friend took it, worked perfectly at his place and is still in use by his son
I had this exact model a couple years back! Although it worked great for many things, the number one thing I could not get past was that it had a HORRIBLE ghosting effect, like the refresh rate just wasn't fast enough. It made it really hard to watch shows/movies and even play some games because of the blurry effect left on the screen. This was definitely a screen best viewed from 6 feet back.
With older LCD TV style displays I had hooked through HDMI, I actually had to go into the graphics card utility(ie. nvidia control panel or AMD radeon software) and change the Over/Under scan, it saved the settings for that display only. If I had a different display hooked up, it usually would automatically revert to the settings for the current display so on and so forth.
I have an old PAL JVC TV that has the same inputs plus SCART. I never much liked it when it was my bedroom TV back in the day, but it's invaluable now. Being able to keep several retro computers permanently hooked up is a huge deal. I'm not at all worried that the picture isn't perfect, it's still better than anything I had back in the day. I think these early LCD TVs can be incredibly useful for retro fans, even though they're not perfect.
@@larryk731 yep i hate it too and it was so annoying going everywhere seeing that nonsense even today i see people still doing it on youtube doctors offices etc etc
I kinda like the "Vertical compressed mode" function of some tv sets depending on aesthetic... well I guess that kinda would be likely how most judge a picture is by how it looks hehehe
Most TVs from the late 1980s in Europe support PAL (West Germany) and SECAM (France and East Germany) at 50 Hz. Also NTSC-60. Some even the non-standard NTSC-50 Hz and PAL-60 Hz. Was able to do all three color codings at 50 and 60 Hz. But also the fall back to black and white. Then there were different intervals in the sound carriers, AM and FM. Since the TV standards in Europe were not uniform but the differences were small, multi-norm receivers were sold in the end.
One additional test that would have been good to see was checking if the Component Video input supports 240p. Important for RGB15Khz to Component converters and Component video mods for old game consoles and easy to test. All you would have had to do was put the Y cable from the C=64 (or composite from the Apple II or Amiga) into the component input's Y jack. Also worth checking if the menu for the Component input supports switching between YPbPr and RGB mode over the Component inputs. Some TVs support analog RGB input directly over the component video connector.
I have a Dell all in one pc from the windows 7 era that has all the various analog input jacks on the back similar to this. It's handy for testing older hardware. The built in sound is nice too. Keeps my workbench from getting cluttered with speakers and adapters.
I’ve still got the uk 32” version of that tv since new, around 2005. Kept purely as its got good analog inputs. Same inputs but with addition of 2 scarts, one rgb, other just composite. Supports ntsc and pal. Menu system pretty much same. Panel resolution is 1366x768.
I have a similar TV by Phillips. Has SCART multi-in instead of composite, but the SCART socket can take composite with the use of a passive adapter. It's really useful for my A1200, as previously I needed 2 monitors to use it, with one connected via RF for running games in PAL and the other connected to a VGA monitor for running Workbench and productivity programs in the full 676x540 without headache inducing interlacing.
I built a retro style arcade cabinet out of scrap furniture, then went to Cash Converters to buy a computer LCD monitor & a non working PC desktop computer, all for about £30! Took out the guts of the monitor & computer & rebuilt it all inside the cabinet! So it's a multimedia arcade machine, with woofer speakers & it's amplifier built in that used to be part of a car sound system! I've yet to source a good quality joybutton interface, I'm using normal USB joypads rigged through the holes where the joybutton interface is going to be!😊❤️
The HDMI overscan is pretty common. Even on my newish 4K 65” LG, the HDMI input is overscanned by default. On some TVs, you have to do something silly like choose a Computer image profile on the TV, or name the input “PC”, or the like. The softness is most likely just an artifact of scaling between two very similar resolutions. (720p 1:1 and 720p overscanned)
If you plug this monitor into a RPi and look at the EDID output you will not only see all the supported modes but it will show you the "preferred" mode as well which is usually the native panel size (but not always)
Once again, I will give credit to my LCD TV which I'm using as a monitor. Samsung LE32A557P2F. HDMI x3, VGA, SCART, Composite, Component and S-Video. 32 inch (81 cm) screen, 1080p (I know 1440p would have been better, but it does look amazing). Cost me 30 €, which was a bargain, and I would recommend getting one of those to everyone. It's so versatile, but even just getting it for the 1080p HDMI is worth the price. So yeah, LCDs from the mid to late 00s are the way to go.
Yesterday I picked up a 19 inch INSIGNIA NS-19E310A13 Multi input LCD TV for $6.00 at my local Thrift Store. The TV has 2 HDMI, VGA, USB, component, composite and a HDTV Tuner. It's perfect for a Retro Computer nerd like me.. I think if you find one of these Multi input TVs you should pick one up before they go extinct.
You should be aware that the 640x350 VGA mode uses exactly the same timing as the 640x400 mode, with 25 black lines added to the top and bottom. The VGA card uses the sync signal polarity to tell the monitor to stretch the image vertically to compensate for that. That's why the Sony monitor had no problems syncing to the 350-line mode with its 400-line preset, but you got the black bars.
Nice review of the TV/monitor. As I have some classic home computers, too, as well as VCR and older DVD players, I intentionally purchased TVs that had multi-inputs. Even my two general-viewing house 50" Smart TVs have composite/component, coax, VGA, and HDMI. Great to hook up my TRS-80 Coco2 up to a 50" and play Zaxxon. 😀
NTSC (well, most NTSC.. more on that in a moment) puts black at a 7.5 IRE pedestal or about 53mV above the blanking level of 0V. Sync pulses are negative. The reasons for this stem from the technical limits of vintage TV equipment, putting blanking below black helped hide retrace lines on poorly adjusted sets and was easier for the transmitter, etc... Now, I did say most NTSC. Japan is why. Japanese sets often have this issue because NTSC-J sets the black level at 0 IRE, same as blanking. There is nothing below black so the decoder simply does not care. When those sets are set up for North American NTSC, they do put black at 7.5 IRE but can not handle anything below it. The three dark strips on SMPTE color bars are 3.5/7.5/11.5 IRE. You're not supposed to see 3.5, but without raising the black level and then matching it 7.5 you can't be sure black is right. However, as long as you can see 11.5 the crush shouldn't be too bad. The component and VGA inputs do not have black crush as they do not have a 7.5 IRE pedestal. Blanking and black are the same level. HDMI has the same issues in the digital domain. The standard for video is black at 15 and white at 235, but PCs and game consoles often use the full 0-255. Some TVs can be adjusted to show levels 0-15 and 236-255, and some can't so you get crush. Conversely, computer monitors expect 0-255 and look "washed out" with video sources. Ain't it fun?
I bought a sanyo tv much like this about 5 years ago. great for playing all the old consoles and so much more. Certainly this Sony is better quality but still neat to find these diamonds in the rough.
Incredible how Sony is consistent in their menus: The design is different but the menu has the same essential structure of a Bravia TV, like Clear voice, etc.
I used to say "Apprentice of everything, Master of nothing" around 98-2005 when I talked about USB ports. I was totally used to use always a specific port for every device (Printers, Joysticks, Serial ports, ethernet, etc) and that is very similar of what vwestlife said in his video :P Of course, after 2005, the use of USB grow so much, that now is hard to find anything that isn't USB
well, that's because USB was specifically designed to replace all those ports. I get why you'd say something like that, but, you have to understand, it was expensive for hardware manufacturers to provide all those different ports. The industry wanted a single solution to replace all, and USB was their solution. The "growth" of USB ports, especially after 2005, was entirely planned, it wasn't a natural, organic growth of new technology. I think you have the impression that it just happened to be the standard different manufacturers agreed upon after its introduction. No. From it's beginning, it was designed to replace everything, and gradually improved over time to do that. In contrast, Apple's use of Firewire (Sony's i.Link) was a rebellious thumbing of their noses at the rest of the PC industry. They didn't just stumble on a different standard.
IIRC a lot of these panels on early "HD Ready" TV were 1366x768 or something close to that (I might have the numbers slightly wrong). As to why they picked that resolution, I've no idea - no TV broadcasts were ever that resolution to my knowledge.
The Apple II (c or e) color monitor I had at hand some time ago also hat a button at the front that forced it to disable color decoding and the filter even if a valid color burst was present. So in mixed high-res text / color graphics you could switch between awesome text or colorful graphics at the monitor.
I suspect this would be more suitable as a computer monitor if you ignore the HDMI input entirely and use a HDMI-VGA adapter. I have a VGA-only panel that still works perfectly, so it's either that or only connect it to the Aspire One. The trick is to keep the VGA cable as short and/or well shielded as possible, that's where you're going to pick up noise. I use a one foot VGA cable, and an extension on the HDMI side where it matters a lot less.
It never occurred to me until you hooked up the Blu-Ray player that Sony was using more or less the same UI design across all their devices, where there's a horizontal ribbon of icons that slides left and right and then the selected one expands into a vertical ribbon of more icons. I associate it with the PlayStation 3, but the Blu-Ray player is clearly laid out in a similar way, and our Sony TV from 2008 also uses that style for its options menu.
Yep, Sony called it the XMB UI (XrossMediaBar, and yes it's pronounced "cross") and they started using it on the PSX back in 2003 (the weird PS2 with the video recorder built in) and continued using it with the PS3, PSP, their Blu-ray players, etc.
Yeah, that's pretty much what I found on most TVs of similar age. Only the VGA input isn't overscanned, and there's no real way to get the aspect ratio right 100% of the time. Some TVs do better, but most are pretty terrible. The only way to do it properly is using a scan converter that does support all the usual VGA resolutions, and piping that into the component input. I was lucky enough to score an old scan converter from the rack behind our ancient telepresence room when we upgraded it to a more modern solution. It has everything from composite to HDMI input, and composite to HDMI output, and it can convert between any of them, so it's really useful for getting a picture out of pretty much anything, and into pretty much any monitor. Not the greatest quality, but you can usually get a good picture with a little tweaking.
I have a Sony 32" Bravia LCD from 2008,it has a very similar menu intetface and a autocallibration option for vga mode. it has exactly X2 amount of inputs that is on this tv😁.i use it for playing PS1,2 & watching tv.i think late 2010's sony LCDs are best if you are looking for a cheap used LCD TV,provided that their cold cathod flurescent is not too tired.
I'm hanging on to a Dell 2408wfp for purely backwards compatibility reasons. It supports literally every plug you'd possibly need, and is 16:10 as well. I mean, if you can't make do with composite, s-video, component, vga, DVI, HDMI, OR Displayport then you're either dealing with something waaaaaaay old... Or French.
Pinball Fantasies working perfectly on a 486 doesn't nearly demonstrate how clever that game is programmed. I played it on a 286 with 12 MHz and a parallel-port DAC requiring a timer interrupt at several kilohertz for music playback at it still worked smoothly. Probably the music sample rate was like 7 or 10 kHz at max, but that's still really awesome. AFAIK Pinball Fantasies uses the PC timer to generate a horizontal sync interrupt for in-picture palette adjustments, and uses that interrupt for sound playback on non-DMA devices as well.
the panel is 1280 x 768. if that resolution isn't exposed by windows display settings, you can probably find it in the advanced settings of the display adapter "list all modes." if it's not there (it almost certainly is), then you can create the resolution in Custom Resolution Utility. just set windows at 1280x768 should look fine
Great to see Sony retro kit. I still use my KDL-V26A12U I bought new in 2006, very similar to this but 26 inch. Agree it's best as a TV rather than monitor, but will keep it for all the different formats support. The overscan is heavy on things like news channels today. The HDMI on mine is super sharp so wonder if that is a difference. The backlight is still bright but there are some banana shaped shadows that show up on green backgrounds.
Many years ago I was in a walgreens or CVS around christmas time and spotted a TV for $99, a little RCA 13.3" LCD with a DVD player. Turns out the little thing has HDMI, VGA, component, composite, and RF... so it's been pressed into similar service. Did need to get a 90 degree adapter for the VGA port though, one of my uses runs a displayport adapter and the VGA connector is massive.
The Samsung Syncmaster 940MW is a very good one. I don't know if it will support low-bandwidth VGA but it has SCART and DVI and it will support just about any analog format you can throw at it. The antenna connector is actually a Belling-Lee connector.
More accurately, they achieve a 4:3 ratio by making the pixels narrower than they are tall. Which is why it's kind of silly that the TV doesn't just assume anything below 480p wants to be 4:3.
I have a nice jack of all trades monitor, it has all of the inputs this has and is 1080p, has pretty decent speakers too. It’s a Samsung 24 inch, can’t quite recall the model though.
4:50 CCFL backlight is no worse in ageing than LED. These tubes are often rated for 50000 hours, where a modern LED backlight gets a 30000 hour lifetime. Better CCFL does not result in dirty screen effect that often, direct lit LED screens can look horrible after a few years as each LED ages differently. I missed info on the panel though. I get the feeling a video like this drives the price to insane levels, and if the panel is of the TN type, that is a waste of money. TV's from a bit later, still have the connectivity, they have even better tubes and they have VA panels for much deeper blacks and great viewing angles.
Only Amiga makes it possible, it even got rid of ghost cap interference patterns 😅 Awesome video Adrian, I loved and learned a lot, specially about that service mode remote key combo. thanks!
For a while there, there were cable boxes with FireWire outputs, you could record 1080i or p, I can’t remember, directly to your computer, circumventing copy protection. I’m not sure there were any displays that could handle it.
My own experience with TVs in Australia is once the Australian TV manufacturing industry died and all went to Asia most things were global multi-standard. Without even trying to buy a multi-standard TV, I would end up with one that was. Even the base model 23" Panasonic I bought in the '90s did everything bar SECAM formats.
Actually this kind al all-purposes LCD/TV are pretty common in the 2008 ~ 2010 time frame. I have a 26" LCD TV from LG (still working great) which has a wide set of inputs: 2X HDMI, 2x SCART, 1x RGB + audio RCA connectors, 1 x Composite + audio RCA connectors, 1x VGA and finally a mini-jack analogue audio input. It has optical digital out out and headphone out; for service only there are also a USB port (FW update) and an RS232 (remote control). It was a pretty run-of-the-mill model, noting fancy or hi-end.
As you may have observed with your retrotink, display timings, sync, phasing, etc. are adjustable parameters based on detecting H and V sync to determine operating settings for scan conversion. With a consumer TV the lookup table and precision of detection is limited by the profiles and by the amount of NVRAM or ROM capacity in the device to store them. Sony covered more than than minimum bases necessary for 99% of consumers.
Quite interesting because I actually use the same type of old LCD TV's although mine is a Samsung from 2004 or 2005 and that TV has composite,component,S-Video,DVI and VGA and to be honest I'm quite happy with that TV and the best thing it has no input lag which is excellent for me since I since I play a lot of games that requires precise inputs especially Platformers and fighting games. I bought it in 2020 after my good old childhood Panasonic crt vhs combo from 1996 die in 2019. So yeah I'm quite happy with it.
@@primus711 Call me crazy but believe it or not on composite and S-Video side it has no input or should I say "low lag" on my Tv because my TV is different from others because it's a low lag TV when you put in composite and S-Video I feel no any delay when I pressed when I press a key or button as a result I have easy time wining with fighting games and Platformers games. However when I connect it in component that's what I noticed it a bit of delay same with VGA because when I switch resolutions on specific games it takes a little longer as result I did notice a bit a delay input in component and VGA side and to be honest doesn't annoy me as much so I got used to it the only thing I can't tell you is the DVI since I haven't used it yet other than that I'm still happy with it but I do agree that is not 100% no lag solution like a CRT Tv or Monitor.
A lot of screens had these really shonky res panels in, I seem to remember 1368x768 or similar being another common resolution. The unforgivable thing was that they would claim 1080 input support, then mangle it with horrific rescale. Coupled with them having the wrong panel pixel arrangements everything looked horrendous aside from TV signals that hid the worst of it through the poor signal quality.
"Hm, I'm seeing an interference pattern" ..... with the ZIF64 sitting there near to the monitor and the internal RF shielding to meet FCC interference requirements long ago thrown away ...
Would have liked to see you hook the VGA input to a Windows PC to see what resolutions Windows reports that it supports. Usually you can drive these at their native resolution, sometimes also at other resolutions.
Aspect Ratio: 16:9 Nominal but 15:9 Actual Resolution: 1280x768 Native Resolution: 720p Contrast Ration: 800:1 Brightness: 500 cdm squared Panel: IPS-10 ms *Please consider including panel information, clearly state the technology used (TN, M/PVA, IPS), as well as if it's 8 or 6 bit. I think this is almost the most important consideration after I/O and native resolution. Many manufacturers hide this information but if your not scared to open it up for us... *Good view angle- not because it is an LCD, but rather an IPS LCD. TN panels are not friendly. *I usually have a better "all around" experience with a 1600x1200 native resolution.
According to Crutchfield's website, the native resolution of the panel is 1280x768, so either it's using rectangular pixels or it's actually 1366x768. Either way, it's definitely meant to be a TV, not a monitor.
I purchased that exact same Sony TV new from Circuit City when it was released. Back then when I purchased it, the price was (I believe) $1300 - $1400. Yes, for a 19" TV/monitor but hey, it was an LCD! Think of what that amount of $ could buy you today in a TV.
The problem with early HDMI monitor like this is often the resolution reported is not the native resolution of the panel. It reports 1280x720 because it's a "720p" TV but the panel is 1366x768. Because of that the computer does not even let you switch to the native resolution (unless using special tool) and the image is never perfect.
i happen to have a 2009 47" vizio model vo47lfhdtv20a that does the same thing. it has 4 hdmi, vga, digital tuner, 2 composit, 2 component, vga in and it does pc audio in, s-video and digital audio out as well. tv panel has seen better usage days. the top of the panel has gray or dark spots across it but all the rest of the panel is ok. one thing of mine is its full widescreen and you can only do wide or zoom for the picture size that are defaulted. it can do pip but no hdmi pip sadly. nice fully featured full hd tv. i have watched laserdiscs and vhs tapes on this thing no problem. mostly i use it with my computer through hdmi and i use an nvidia shield tv on it as well. havent run a cable box on it through hdmi in a good while.
It seems that Sony displays were very similar during this time period, as this display shares many similar oddities with my 07/08 Bravia I watched this video on. On my TV however, while using "TV" resolutions and timings you get the uneven scaling and overscan, but using "PC" resolutions on HDMI gives you the same characteristics of VGA. Overscan corrected 1080p is ideal for watching videos and movies since you don't need perfect sharpness, while 1360x768 is good for using it as a monitor and playing games with ever so slightly less latency. My point is, you may be able to set the resolution of your monitor to something like 1360x768 over HDMI and get 1:1 pixel mapping. (Although on my TV I need to use YUV422 mode since the subpixel rendering seems to be half resolution and messes with text, strange.)
Hi Adrian, some tv sets support RGB mode on component. So maybe it can support rgb as 480i from an Amiga maybe even in 50 Hz. I’m sure ther is a small circuit to mix the sync of the amiga onto the rgb-green of the then RGB component signal.
This Sony TV was originally advertised as HDTV ready which at the a time meant that it could accept and display an HDTV signal but that it didn’t include an HD TV tuner built-in. In order to display an HDTV broadcast you needed an image from a external HD digital TV tuner box connected either by component or HDMI. The RF input in this TV is analog NTSC only and does not support ATSC digital TV signals. RF inputs can be either except NTSC only for or support TSC if a ATSC digital tuner is include (or DBS outside North America and Japan). There is nothing about RF connector type that makes it analog or digital only.
I have some Samsung CDTV 4x3 LCDs that have svideo/component/HDMI/VGA. Theyre *perfect* for retro computing, except.... the panels are 60Hz fixed, so while you can use 50Hz input (eg PAL c64) on them you get a little glitchy movement as it interpolates. Sigh.
According to the user manual on Sony's website, the native resolution is 1280x768, which isn't even 16:9 (1.66 actually!). Either non-square pixels or the panel really has an AR of 1.66 which I've never seen before. One interesting experiment would be trying that resolution via VGA and HDMI (probably having to create a custom resolution if the OS isn't listing it) and see how the TV handles it.
@@primus711 It's hard to believe indeed, but that's what both the downloadable PDF on Sony's website and some spec sheets on the internet say (Sony mentions a resolution of 1366x768 only for 23, 26 and 32-inch models of the same series, not this 19' one). Unless Sony themselves made a mistake.
@@Dioxaz why i only trust the pc or looking at the oem of the panel itself I hate how many adjust the edid to standard resolutions that arent the native
@@primus711 I've seen cases of EDID reporting a wrong native resolution: typically the Sony LMD-2050W (IIRC) which reports a native resolution of 1280x1024 in both DVI and VGA to a source despite clearly having a 1680x1050 panel inside!! I did try to create a custom resolution on machines that allowed me to do so (they all used Intel GPUs) and guess what. Pixel perfect result (well insanely close), which was totally unseen on that monitor, which has one of the best LCD panels from that era (2008) by the way, just very poorly made advantage by Sony. To this day, I'm unaware if this is common to all LMD-2050W (have to confirm if its this one) or if it wast jus the unit we have at work (which is in storage right now).
On some TVs, contrast/picture crushes the blacks to increase contrast in brighter pixels, so maybe you'd get the black bars properly if you turned that one down a bit.
How interesting, a WEGA LCD! I always thought that WEGA branding meant flat Trinitron. I guess not! It's very stylish for an early LCD. Most flat panels of that era had much larger bezels, goofy side-firing speakers, and clunky, really dated looking OSDs.
The w is the shadow for the v in front/crossing over it if viewed in the blue/black of an older manual (the owner/operator not thhe Service manual) [in the term wega that is]
It's weird, but if you take the Apple II composite output and split it, feeding the same signal into both the Luma and Chroma jack of your adapter, most monitors will manage to create a sharp color S-video picture.
Adrian you have to test another table on pinball fantasies. The white pattern (over the rails for a ball) is hard for an LCD it normally flickers a lot in movement. On C64 it's always a good test if you look at a normally smooth scroller...some LCD/TFT do not use 50hz, they do 56 or 60hz and stutter ! no-go for me.
In the old days, maybe Windows 95? I had a NEC Multisync CRT monitor. For a reason I don't remember, I then changed it to a corresponding Nokia CRT version. Finally I changed to some LCD monitors and remember perfectly the reason for that change -- I did not have space for the CRT monitor any more. But one thing I still miss from the CRTs. The color quality of LCD does not match! Especially that applies to the purple shades. By the way, when I eventually got an LCD TV, I almost lost my opportunity of getting a SMALL one. I got a 31" Sony Bravia, apparently the last one of that size, while everybody sold 40"+ size monsters. Luckily my Bravia has worked without any problems and I hope it continues that way. Because I still don't have room for those giants.
It's really interesting. Since the 90s, many TVs sold in Australia happily support both PAL and NTSC, my mother's old Sony from the mid 90s did and all the TVs I've owned since I was 17 support both. Do modern US market TVs support PAL as well as NTSC?
I've never seen a US TV that supported PAL.(Or at least it's never advertised as a feature; it's possible that some might support it by accident by reusing components from other regions.)
I have a Toshiba 19 inch TV that has VGA, HDMI and Composite Audio and Video inputs. Mine does have a digital tuner though. I think it came out in 2012.
![Adrian's Digital Basement ][](http://yt3.ggpht.com/ytc/AIdro_k7CrQRe71qN6c0Ua7A1P_I8KkxjqLa70u0zYeCvdvnKw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
European here 🙋🏻♂️. I have 3 SHARP LCD tv's - 1 I bought years ago for the bedroom and 2 second hand I bought as back ups recently. Model number is LC-19D1E or LC-19A1E (-BK or -WH for the colour of the case). They have Analogue and Digital tv (except the 19A1E), HDMI, composite, Component, S-video, VGA and SCART which has RGB inputs. Colour decoding is PAL, PAL-60, NTSC and SECAM. It's 16:9 but does an excellent 4:3 (my default for my retro computers) and works with difficult computers where other LCD tv's struggle. 👌🏼
The sharps are brilliant.
How is the sound? That's the thing I love about these LCD televisions from the early 2000s.. they usually have good speakers. These days they want to make them so thin and the speakers are terrible. Epesically because they consider anything in that size range to be "low end" these days.
It's also a cost saving thing. Older tvs spent decent money on the sound. My 52" Sony from 2008 sounds great and you can clearly hear the relay kicking in when turning on the audio amp. It even supports attaching external unpowered speakers. Meanwhile my 2017 55" 4K Sony sounds about on par with the 13" black and white Zenith I had growing up.
Very True , My SONY V40A10E from 2006 have a luxurious sound from HDMI
I remember on one or both of my projectors, there is a "full" vs "limited" RGB mode, where the limited crushed the blacks just like this, resulting in overall lower contrast ratio. If the monitor doesn't have a setting, you can alternatively send a limited RGB signal from the source. If you can't do that, then you're SOL.
"Jack of all trades; master of none"
@11:27, if you see the middle black bar, (on an analog set) it means your brightness is too high. It should not be visible. The Sony TV's digital NTSC decoder, like a number of others brands, correctly clamped out that negative brightness bar all to the digital black. (As you said black crush (which is actually something a little different...)) If you see the just above black grey bar to the right, you are seeing everything. Though, when it comes to testing cheaply constructed analog video from sources like a C64, (not exactly following the pure dead accurate SMPTE digital video levels found coming from modern digital sources), there is some value in having a brightness adjustment which allows you to see video content below the official reference black when turning up a 'brightness' control.
I picked up the 23" version of this monitor after watching this video and it works great in a world where CRT brands that were crap in the 80's and 90's are going for hundreds today.
I had a Dell Ultrasharp 2408WFP monitor - 1920x1200 16:10 with VGA, HDMI, Displayport, 2x DVI, S-Video, Component and Composite - probably the best monitor I've owned and certainly the most versatile - eventually it started giving issues and a friend took it, worked perfectly at his place and is still in use by his son
I found several HP LP2475w's in a dumpster, and they have similar specs. Old, heavy, and run hot but I love them.
I had this exact model a couple years back! Although it worked great for many things, the number one thing I could not get past was that it had a HORRIBLE ghosting effect, like the refresh rate just wasn't fast enough. It made it really hard to watch shows/movies and even play some games because of the blurry effect left on the screen. This was definitely a screen best viewed from 6 feet back.
With older LCD TV style displays I had hooked through HDMI, I actually had to go into the graphics card utility(ie. nvidia control panel or AMD radeon software) and change the Over/Under scan, it saved the settings for that display only. If I had a different display hooked up, it usually would automatically revert to the settings for the current display so on and so forth.
I have an old PAL JVC TV that has the same inputs plus SCART. I never much liked it when it was my bedroom TV back in the day, but it's invaluable now. Being able to keep several retro computers permanently hooked up is a huge deal. I'm not at all worried that the picture isn't perfect, it's still better than anything I had back in the day. I think these early LCD TVs can be incredibly useful for retro fans, even though they're not perfect.
@@leetucker9938 they junk
Really glad the "stretched" era of TV only lasted a few years, it really bugged me.
It never was it was just people not setting the aspect ratios to the source correctly and horrible cable companies
I bought a Samsung TV that has a just scan mode like four months ago. Luckily the default is just scan and not that weird pseudo overscan
It should be illegal to view a 4:3 video in 16:9 ever under penalty of death lol.
@@larryk731 yep i hate it too and it was so annoying going everywhere seeing that nonsense even today i see people still doing it on youtube doctors offices etc etc
I kinda like the "Vertical compressed mode" function of some tv sets depending on aesthetic... well I guess that kinda would be likely how most judge a picture is by how it looks hehehe
Most TVs from the late 1980s in Europe support PAL (West Germany) and SECAM (France and East Germany) at 50 Hz. Also NTSC-60.
Some even the non-standard NTSC-50 Hz and PAL-60 Hz.
Was able to do all three color codings at 50 and 60 Hz. But also the fall back to black and white.
Then there were different intervals in the sound carriers, AM and FM.
Since the TV standards in Europe were not uniform but the differences were small, multi-norm receivers were sold in the end.
One additional test that would have been good to see was checking if the Component Video input supports 240p. Important for RGB15Khz to Component converters and Component video mods for old game consoles and easy to test. All you would have had to do was put the Y cable from the C=64 (or composite from the Apple II or Amiga) into the component input's Y jack. Also worth checking if the menu for the Component input supports switching between YPbPr and RGB mode over the Component inputs. Some TVs support analog RGB input directly over the component video connector.
I have a Dell all in one pc from the windows 7 era that has all the various analog input jacks on the back similar to this. It's handy for testing older hardware. The built in sound is nice too. Keeps my workbench from getting cluttered with speakers and adapters.
I’ve still got the uk 32” version of that tv since new, around 2005. Kept purely as its got good analog inputs. Same inputs but with addition of 2 scarts, one rgb, other just composite. Supports ntsc and pal. Menu system pretty much same. Panel resolution is 1366x768.
I have a similar TV by Phillips. Has SCART multi-in instead of composite, but the SCART socket can take composite with the use of a passive adapter.
It's really useful for my A1200, as previously I needed 2 monitors to use it, with one connected via RF for running games in PAL and the other connected to a VGA monitor for running Workbench and productivity programs in the full 676x540 without headache inducing interlacing.
I built a retro style arcade cabinet out of scrap furniture, then went to Cash Converters to buy a computer LCD monitor & a non working PC desktop computer, all for about £30!
Took out the guts of the monitor & computer & rebuilt it all inside the cabinet! So it's a multimedia arcade machine, with woofer speakers & it's amplifier built in that used to be part of a car sound system!
I've yet to source a good quality joybutton interface, I'm using normal USB joypads rigged through the holes where the joybutton interface is going to be!😊❤️
The HDMI overscan is pretty common. Even on my newish 4K 65” LG, the HDMI input is overscanned by default. On some TVs, you have to do something silly like choose a Computer image profile on the TV, or name the input “PC”, or the like.
The softness is most likely just an artifact of scaling between two very similar resolutions. (720p 1:1 and 720p overscanned)
If you plug this monitor into a RPi and look at the EDID output you will not only see all the supported modes but it will show you the "preferred" mode as well which is usually the native panel size (but not always)
Once again, I will give credit to my LCD TV which I'm using as a monitor. Samsung LE32A557P2F.
HDMI x3, VGA, SCART, Composite, Component and S-Video. 32 inch (81 cm) screen, 1080p (I know 1440p would have been better, but it does look amazing).
Cost me 30 €, which was a bargain, and I would recommend getting one of those to everyone. It's so versatile, but even just getting it for the 1080p HDMI is worth the price.
So yeah, LCDs from the mid to late 00s are the way to go.
Yesterday I picked up a 19 inch INSIGNIA NS-19E310A13 Multi input LCD TV for $6.00 at my local Thrift Store. The TV has 2 HDMI, VGA, USB, component, composite and a HDTV Tuner. It's perfect for a Retro Computer nerd like me.. I think if you find one of these Multi input TVs you should pick one up before they go extinct.
Great Find !
year of manufacture?
@@squirlmy 2012
i remember this monitor this very monitor was used on the display units for the Playstation 3 when it first came out
You should be aware that the 640x350 VGA mode uses exactly the same timing as the 640x400 mode, with 25 black lines added to the top and bottom. The VGA card uses the sync signal polarity to tell the monitor to stretch the image vertically to compensate for that. That's why the Sony monitor had no problems syncing to the 350-line mode with its 400-line preset, but you got the black bars.
Nice review of the TV/monitor.
As I have some classic home computers, too, as well as VCR and older DVD players, I intentionally purchased TVs that had multi-inputs.
Even my two general-viewing house 50" Smart TVs have composite/component, coax, VGA, and HDMI. Great to hook up my TRS-80 Coco2 up to a 50" and play Zaxxon. 😀
NTSC (well, most NTSC.. more on that in a moment) puts black at a 7.5 IRE pedestal or about 53mV above the blanking level of 0V. Sync pulses are negative. The reasons for this stem from the technical limits of vintage TV equipment, putting blanking below black helped hide retrace lines on poorly adjusted sets and was easier for the transmitter, etc...
Now, I did say most NTSC. Japan is why. Japanese sets often have this issue because NTSC-J sets the black level at 0 IRE, same as blanking. There is nothing below black so the decoder simply does not care. When those sets are set up for North American NTSC, they do put black at 7.5 IRE but can not handle anything below it. The three dark strips on SMPTE color bars are 3.5/7.5/11.5 IRE. You're not supposed to see 3.5, but without raising the black level and then matching it 7.5 you can't be sure black is right. However, as long as you can see 11.5 the crush shouldn't be too bad.
The component and VGA inputs do not have black crush as they do not have a 7.5 IRE pedestal. Blanking and black are the same level.
HDMI has the same issues in the digital domain. The standard for video is black at 15 and white at 235, but PCs and game consoles often use the full 0-255. Some TVs can be adjusted to show levels 0-15 and 236-255, and some can't so you get crush. Conversely, computer monitors expect 0-255 and look "washed out" with video sources. Ain't it fun?
I bought a sanyo tv much like this about 5 years ago. great for playing all the old consoles and so much more. Certainly this Sony is better quality but still neat to find these diamonds in the rough.
Incredible how Sony is consistent in their menus: The design is different but the menu has the same essential structure of a Bravia TV, like Clear voice, etc.
A Jack of all trades, but a master of none. :)
Good video.
I used to say "Apprentice of everything, Master of nothing" around 98-2005 when I talked about USB ports. I was totally used to use always a specific port for every device (Printers, Joysticks, Serial ports, ethernet, etc) and that is very similar of what vwestlife said in his video :P
Of course, after 2005, the use of USB grow so much, that now is hard to find anything that isn't USB
it's, jack of all trades, master of none.... it's an old english addadge....
well, that's because USB was specifically designed to replace all those ports. I get why you'd say something like that, but, you have to understand, it was expensive for hardware manufacturers to provide all those different ports. The industry wanted a single solution to replace all, and USB was their solution. The "growth" of USB ports, especially after 2005, was entirely planned, it wasn't a natural, organic growth of new technology.
I think you have the impression that it just happened to be the standard different manufacturers agreed upon after its introduction. No. From it's beginning, it was designed to replace everything, and gradually improved over time to do that. In contrast, Apple's use of Firewire (Sony's i.Link) was a rebellious thumbing of their noses at the rest of the PC industry. They didn't just stumble on a different standard.
IIRC a lot of these panels on early "HD Ready" TV were 1366x768 or something close to that (I might have the numbers slightly wrong). As to why they picked that resolution, I've no idea - no TV broadcasts were ever that resolution to my knowledge.
The Apple II (c or e) color monitor I had at hand some time ago also hat a button at the front that forced it to disable color decoding and the filter even if a valid color burst was present. So in mixed high-res text / color graphics you could switch between awesome text or colorful graphics at the monitor.
I suspect this would be more suitable as a computer monitor if you ignore the HDMI input entirely and use a HDMI-VGA adapter. I have a VGA-only panel that still works perfectly, so it's either that or only connect it to the Aspire One. The trick is to keep the VGA cable as short and/or well shielded as possible, that's where you're going to pick up noise. I use a one foot VGA cable, and an extension on the HDMI side where it matters a lot less.
It never occurred to me until you hooked up the Blu-Ray player that Sony was using more or less the same UI design across all their devices, where there's a horizontal ribbon of icons that slides left and right and then the selected one expands into a vertical ribbon of more icons. I associate it with the PlayStation 3, but the Blu-Ray player is clearly laid out in a similar way, and our Sony TV from 2008 also uses that style for its options menu.
Yep, Sony called it the XMB UI (XrossMediaBar, and yes it's pronounced "cross") and they started using it on the PSX back in 2003 (the weird PS2 with the video recorder built in) and continued using it with the PS3, PSP, their Blu-ray players, etc.
Yeah, that's pretty much what I found on most TVs of similar age. Only the VGA input isn't overscanned, and there's no real way to get the aspect ratio right 100% of the time. Some TVs do better, but most are pretty terrible.
The only way to do it properly is using a scan converter that does support all the usual VGA resolutions, and piping that into the component input.
I was lucky enough to score an old scan converter from the rack behind our ancient telepresence room when we upgraded it to a more modern solution. It has everything from composite to HDMI input, and composite to HDMI output, and it can convert between any of them, so it's really useful for getting a picture out of pretty much anything, and into pretty much any monitor. Not the greatest quality, but you can usually get a good picture with a little tweaking.
I have a Sony 32" Bravia LCD from 2008,it has a very similar menu intetface and a autocallibration option for vga mode. it has exactly X2 amount of inputs that is on this tv😁.i use it for playing PS1,2 & watching tv.i think late 2010's sony LCDs are best if you are looking for a cheap used LCD TV,provided that their cold cathod flurescent is not too tired.
I'm hanging on to a Dell 2408wfp for purely backwards compatibility reasons. It supports literally every plug you'd possibly need, and is 16:10 as well. I mean, if you can't make do with composite, s-video, component, vga, DVI, HDMI, OR Displayport then you're either dealing with something waaaaaaay old... Or French.
This is the best review I've seen in a long time. Thanks a lot!
that sharpness info is good to know. on my tv, the sharpness was turned up to like 75% i always thought the more sharpness the better but now i know
Pinball Fantasies working perfectly on a 486 doesn't nearly demonstrate how clever that game is programmed. I played it on a 286 with 12 MHz and a parallel-port DAC requiring a timer interrupt at several kilohertz for music playback at it still worked smoothly. Probably the music sample rate was like 7 or 10 kHz at max, but that's still really awesome. AFAIK Pinball Fantasies uses the PC timer to generate a horizontal sync interrupt for in-picture palette adjustments, and uses that interrupt for sound playback on non-DMA devices as well.
I really like that 4:3 aspect ratio. I currently use 8:3 as in two monitors but a single 4:3 is nicer than 16:9
I have a Hitachi LCD TV that has about the same number of inputs, it's really handy.
the panel is 1280 x 768. if that resolution isn't exposed by windows display settings, you can probably find it in the advanced settings of the display adapter "list all modes." if it's not there (it almost certainly is), then you can create the resolution in Custom Resolution Utility. just set windows at 1280x768 should look fine
Great to see Sony retro kit. I still use my KDL-V26A12U I bought new in 2006, very similar to this but 26 inch. Agree it's best as a TV rather than monitor, but will keep it for all the different formats support. The overscan is heavy on things like news channels today. The HDMI on mine is super sharp so wonder if that is a difference. The backlight is still bright but there are some banana shaped shadows that show up on green backgrounds.
I have the 23in version of that, picked up for $4.99. Works perfect.
Many years ago I was in a walgreens or CVS around christmas time and spotted a TV for $99, a little RCA 13.3" LCD with a DVD player. Turns out the little thing has HDMI, VGA, component, composite, and RF... so it's been pressed into similar service. Did need to get a 90 degree adapter for the VGA port though, one of my uses runs a displayport adapter and the VGA connector is massive.
Sony was kind of king of TV/Monitors. I mean this is the company that brought us the Sony Multisync monitor. That thing was amazing in the 80's.
The Samsung Syncmaster 940MW is a very good one. I don't know if it will support low-bandwidth VGA but it has SCART and DVI and it will support just about any analog format you can throw at it. The antenna connector is actually a Belling-Lee connector.
32:58 Keep in mind that most text mode resolutions aren't actually 4:3. A lot of them, like 720x400, are wider than 16x9.
More accurately, they achieve a 4:3 ratio by making the pixels narrower than they are tall. Which is why it's kind of silly that the TV doesn't just assume anything below 480p wants to be 4:3.
Concise and informative, great video
I have a nice jack of all trades monitor, it has all of the inputs this has and is 1080p, has pretty decent speakers too. It’s a Samsung 24 inch, can’t quite recall the model though.
Probably my favorite LCD era, all the ports included. :D
The Sony service menu code still works on more recent LCD TVs.
4:50 CCFL backlight is no worse in ageing than LED. These tubes are often rated for 50000 hours, where a modern LED backlight gets a 30000 hour lifetime. Better CCFL does not result in dirty screen effect that often, direct lit LED screens can look horrible after a few years as each LED ages differently. I missed info on the panel though. I get the feeling a video like this drives the price to insane levels, and if the panel is of the TN type, that is a waste of money. TV's from a bit later, still have the connectivity, they have even better tubes and they have VA panels for much deeper blacks and great viewing angles.
Only Amiga makes it possible, it even got rid of ghost cap interference patterns 😅 Awesome video Adrian, I loved and learned a lot, specially about that service mode remote key combo. thanks!
Managed to acquire an LG 2362D, its basically a 1080p PC Monitor with all the usual TV inputs.
For a while there, there were cable boxes with FireWire outputs, you could record 1080i or p, I can’t remember, directly to your computer, circumventing copy protection. I’m not sure there were any displays that could handle it.
I had this exact model, bought from goodwill but it was smashed beyond belief. super heavy base mount.
My own experience with TVs in Australia is once the Australian TV manufacturing industry died and all went to Asia most things were global multi-standard. Without even trying to buy a multi-standard TV, I would end up with one that was. Even the base model 23" Panasonic I bought in the '90s did everything bar SECAM formats.
In EU you would get SCART/RGB compatible with machines like Atari ST in addition to all those ports ;)
Europe, not EU.
11:18 On a properly adjusted television, you won't be able to see the middle pluge bar. Only when brightness is too high will that middle bar show up.
just bought one, thanks you're the king!
Actually this kind al all-purposes LCD/TV are pretty common in the 2008 ~ 2010 time frame. I have a 26" LCD TV from LG (still working great) which has a wide set of inputs: 2X HDMI, 2x SCART, 1x RGB + audio RCA connectors, 1 x Composite + audio RCA connectors, 1x VGA and finally a mini-jack analogue audio input. It has optical digital out out and headphone out; for service only there are also a USB port (FW update) and an RS232 (remote control). It was a pretty run-of-the-mill model, noting fancy or hi-end.
As you may have observed with your retrotink, display timings, sync, phasing, etc. are adjustable parameters based on detecting H and V sync to determine operating settings for scan conversion. With a consumer TV the lookup table and precision of detection is limited by the profiles and by the amount of NVRAM or ROM capacity in the device to store them. Sony covered more than than minimum bases necessary for 99% of consumers.
Quite interesting because I actually use the same type of old LCD TV's although mine is a Samsung from 2004 or 2005 and that TV has composite,component,S-Video,DVI and VGA and to be honest I'm quite happy with that TV and the best thing it has no input lag which is excellent for me since I since I play a lot of games that requires precise inputs especially Platformers and fighting games. I bought it in 2020 after my good old childhood Panasonic crt vhs combo from 1996 die in 2019. So yeah I'm quite happy with it.
Its definitely has input lag no way around that
@@primus711 Call me crazy but believe it or not on composite and S-Video side it has no input or should I say "low lag" on my Tv because my TV is different from others because it's a low lag TV when you put in composite and S-Video I feel no any delay when I pressed when I press a key or button as a result I have easy time wining with fighting games and Platformers games. However when I connect it in component that's what I noticed it a bit of delay same with VGA because when I switch resolutions on specific games it takes a little longer as result I did notice a bit a delay input in component and VGA side and to be honest doesn't annoy me as much so I got used to it the only thing I can't tell you is the DVI since I haven't used it yet other than that I'm still happy with it but I do agree that is not 100% no lag solution like a CRT Tv or Monitor.
@@RetroGamingWithEdgarRivera right because it has processing
According to the specs the panel has a resolution of 1280x768, so it's actually not 16:9 but 15:9, or 5:3.
A lot of screens had these really shonky res panels in, I seem to remember 1368x768 or similar being another common resolution. The unforgivable thing was that they would claim 1080 input support, then mangle it with horrific rescale. Coupled with them having the wrong panel pixel arrangements everything looked horrendous aside from TV signals that hid the worst of it through the poor signal quality.
I've actually never seen a true 1280×720 screen on anything. It's always _something_ by 768 and then they upscale slightly.
I measured from a photo and It seems to be close to 5:3 (1280x768).
Wow, the grille pattern below the screen is playing merry hell with the bitrate.
"Hm, I'm seeing an interference pattern" ..... with the ZIF64 sitting there near to the monitor and the internal RF shielding to meet FCC interference requirements long ago thrown away ...
41:53 I was going to comment and say, DRM! But you already know... I spent so much time at Apple dealing with DRM/HDCP 😩
Would have liked to see you hook the VGA input to a Windows PC to see what resolutions Windows reports that it supports. Usually you can drive these at their native resolution, sometimes also at other resolutions.
It's 1280 x 768.
6:57 So much DCT block artifacting due to the TV noise. It's always a thing with video compression here on TH-cam lol.
Aspect Ratio:
16:9 Nominal but 15:9 Actual
Resolution: 1280x768
Native Resolution: 720p
Contrast Ration: 800:1
Brightness: 500 cdm squared
Panel: IPS-10 ms
*Please consider including panel information, clearly state the technology used (TN, M/PVA, IPS), as well as if it's 8 or 6 bit. I think this is almost the most important consideration after I/O and native resolution. Many manufacturers hide this information but if your not scared to open it up for us...
*Good view angle- not because it is an LCD, but rather an IPS LCD. TN panels are not friendly.
*I usually have a better "all around" experience with a 1600x1200 native resolution.
According to Crutchfield's website, the native resolution of the panel is 1280x768, so either it's using rectangular pixels or it's actually 1366x768. Either way, it's definitely meant to be a TV, not a monitor.
15:00 There is a menu option for the 4:3 mode - default was wide zoom. change that. Menu is 5:09
The Dell U2410F is a good Amiga 15 kHz monitor with some good inputs and features.
Yes, make a video about the opening of that tv so we can see its wonders.
I purchased that exact same Sony TV new from Circuit City when it was released. Back then when I purchased it, the price was (I believe) $1300 - $1400. Yes, for a 19" TV/monitor but hey, it was an LCD! Think of what that amount of $ could buy you today in a TV.
$1400 would get you _so many Ks._
The problem with early HDMI monitor like this is often the resolution reported is not the native resolution of the panel. It reports 1280x720 because it's a "720p" TV but the panel is 1366x768. Because of that the computer does not even let you switch to the native resolution (unless using special tool) and the image is never perfect.
BTW, on Trinitron, maybe PAL specific or series specific, the code is :
i+
5
Vol +
Square (display)
:-)
The Apple //C text looks really clear to me.
I love seeing shoutouts to @VWestlife - one of my favorite creators. To sum him up in 2 words: effortlessly interesting.
i happen to have a 2009 47" vizio model vo47lfhdtv20a that does the same thing. it has 4 hdmi, vga, digital tuner, 2 composit, 2 component, vga in and it does pc audio in, s-video
and digital audio out as well. tv panel has seen better usage days. the top of the panel has gray or dark spots across it but all the rest of the panel is ok. one thing of mine is its full widescreen and you can only do wide or zoom for the picture size that are defaulted. it can do pip but no hdmi pip sadly. nice fully featured full hd tv. i have watched laserdiscs and vhs tapes on this thing no problem. mostly i use it with my computer through hdmi and i use an nvidia shield tv on it as well. havent run a cable box on it through hdmi in a good while.
I have a Planar I use for everything. So far so good.
It seems that Sony displays were very similar during this time period, as this display shares many similar oddities with my 07/08 Bravia I watched this video on. On my TV however, while using "TV" resolutions and timings you get the uneven scaling and overscan, but using "PC" resolutions on HDMI gives you the same characteristics of VGA. Overscan corrected 1080p is ideal for watching videos and movies since you don't need perfect sharpness, while 1360x768 is good for using it as a monitor and playing games with ever so slightly less latency. My point is, you may be able to set the resolution of your monitor to something like 1360x768 over HDMI and get 1:1 pixel mapping. (Although on my TV I need to use YUV422 mode since the subpixel rendering seems to be half resolution and messes with text, strange.)
Hi Adrian, some tv sets support RGB mode on component. So maybe it can support rgb as 480i from an Amiga maybe even in 50 Hz. I’m sure ther is a small circuit to mix the sync of the amiga onto the rgb-green of the then RGB component signal.
This Sony TV was originally advertised as HDTV ready which at the a time meant that it could accept and display an HDTV signal but that it didn’t include an HD TV tuner built-in. In order to display an HDTV broadcast you needed an image from a external HD digital TV tuner box connected either by component or HDMI. The RF input in this TV is analog NTSC only and does not support ATSC digital TV signals. RF inputs can be either except NTSC only for or support TSC if a ATSC digital tuner is include (or DBS outside North America and Japan). There is nothing about RF connector type that makes it analog or digital only.
the timing on the static noise! 😮😆
I have some Samsung CDTV 4x3 LCDs that have svideo/component/HDMI/VGA. Theyre *perfect* for retro computing, except.... the panels are 60Hz fixed, so while you can use 50Hz input (eg PAL c64) on them you get a little glitchy movement as it interpolates.
Sigh.
According to the user manual on Sony's website, the native resolution is 1280x768, which isn't even 16:9 (1.66 actually!). Either non-square pixels or the panel really has an AR of 1.66 which I've never seen before. One interesting experiment would be trying that resolution via VGA and HDMI (probably having to create a custom resolution if the OS isn't listing it) and see how the TV handles it.
I don't think thats correct only way to find out is attach to a pc
Usually its 1366x768
@@primus711 It's hard to believe indeed, but that's what both the downloadable PDF on Sony's website and some spec sheets on the internet say (Sony mentions a resolution of 1366x768 only for 23, 26 and 32-inch models of the same series, not this 19' one). Unless Sony themselves made a mistake.
@@Dioxaz why i only trust the pc or looking at the oem of the panel itself
I hate how many adjust the edid to standard resolutions that arent the native
@@primus711 I've seen cases of EDID reporting a wrong native resolution: typically the Sony LMD-2050W (IIRC) which reports a native resolution of 1280x1024 in both DVI and VGA to a source despite clearly having a 1680x1050 panel inside!! I did try to create a custom resolution on machines that allowed me to do so (they all used Intel GPUs) and guess what. Pixel perfect result (well insanely close), which was totally unseen on that monitor, which has one of the best LCD panels from that era (2008) by the way, just very poorly made advantage by Sony. To this day, I'm unaware if this is common to all LMD-2050W (have to confirm if its this one) or if it wast jus the unit we have at work (which is in storage right now).
@@Dioxaz you can write your own edid i used to have to back in the day
Even had a monitor that had a corrupt 1 i had to rewrite
You should try an 15khz RGB in thought he component inputs. Some TVs will do RGB on component input, The Amiga might look good though it.
On some TVs, contrast/picture crushes the blacks to increase contrast in brighter pixels, so maybe you'd get the black bars properly if you turned that one down a bit.
How interesting, a WEGA LCD! I always thought that WEGA branding meant flat Trinitron. I guess not!
It's very stylish for an early LCD. Most flat panels of that era had much larger bezels, goofy side-firing speakers, and clunky, really dated looking OSDs.
They made wega lcds and front projection dlp tvs
The w is the shadow for the v in front/crossing over it if viewed in the blue/black of an older manual (the owner/operator not thhe Service manual) [in the term wega that is]
It's weird, but if you take the Apple II composite output and split it, feeding the same signal into both the Luma and Chroma jack of your adapter, most monitors will manage to create a sharp color S-video picture.
you'd get pretty heavy chroma dots but it works
Sometimes I will just stand here and watch television for hours.
Adrian you have to test another table on pinball fantasies. The white pattern (over the rails for a ball) is hard for an LCD it normally flickers a lot in movement.
On C64 it's always a good test if you look at a normally smooth scroller...some LCD/TFT do not use 50hz, they do 56 or 60hz and stutter ! no-go for me.
The reason it has so many inputs is because it's a TV. :)
In the old days, maybe Windows 95? I had a NEC Multisync CRT monitor. For a reason I don't remember, I then changed it to a corresponding Nokia CRT version. Finally I changed to some LCD monitors and remember perfectly the reason for that change -- I did not have space for the CRT monitor any more. But one thing I still miss from the CRTs. The color quality of LCD does not match! Especially that applies to the purple shades.
By the way, when I eventually got an LCD TV, I almost lost my opportunity of getting a SMALL one. I got a 31" Sony Bravia, apparently the last one of that size, while everybody sold 40"+ size monsters. Luckily my Bravia has worked without any problems and I hope it continues that way. Because I still don't have room for those giants.
It's really interesting. Since the 90s, many TVs sold in Australia happily support both PAL and NTSC, my mother's old Sony from the mid 90s did and all the TVs I've owned since I was 17 support both. Do modern US market TVs support PAL as well as NTSC?
I've never seen a US TV that supported PAL.(Or at least it's never advertised as a feature; it's possible that some might support it by accident by reusing components from other regions.)
I have a Toshiba 19 inch TV that has VGA, HDMI and Composite Audio and Video inputs. Mine does have a digital tuner though. I think it came out in 2012.
jack of all trades, master of none
I think that there must be a Home button that will let you to the advanced menus.