I think you are probably correct about the spark plug well theory and the oil on the cylinder walls.. I believe a new valve cover gasket set would include the seals to correct that issue. My son’s Nissan truck has a similar problem.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Just a heads up, there are two park plug seals. The ones at the top of the valve cover, you will get those in your kit. But there is also a place to leak half way down the spark plug tube. The tube itself can be unscrewed and you can use some kind of rtv to reseal it. Generally the best way to do that is to double up the valve cover nuts so they lock together and screw that tube right out of there. Could be either one in your case, just keep that in mind.
Reading through comments - I don’t think you need a leakdown tester for this. Sure, it would give you a better understanding for how much leakage you have, but that’s about it. Do you have an air compressor and a compression tester? Some of the compression testers have various hoses that have a quick release to attach to the gauge. The quick release is often the same type to connect to a compressor hose. You could then bring a piston to TDC and put about 30~60psi into the combustion chamber. Remove the oil fill cap and oil dip stick. Listen for any air hissing out of those two holes - inserting a length of vacuum line in your ear can be helpful to really hear the hiss. That would tell you if you have cable leakage or piston ring leakage. You could even remove the radiator cap and look for bubble in the water fill neck if you suspect a blown head gasket.
Hey Dave ,you definitely have some scoring going on there especially on #3 I would be concerned about that ,I can see some cross hatch but the verticle scores are a concern. With the bore scope in the cylinder have someone rock the crank you can probably see some side movement in the piston
Thanks Tommy. You’re probably right. I’ve watched a couple videos since making this (The Car Care Nut) and now I think I know a little better what to look for, and where to look for it. I’m probably going to do another scoping video on this to double-check the those walls. As I’m sure you know, if the walls are damaged then the engine is shot. We’ll see 😕
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I was gona recommend the car care nut, he's a veteran Toyota tech very informative. Good luck with it and I will continue to follow your videos, good stuff. Thanks.
Hey Dave, I have been watching your videos later in the series but just saw this one. I could be just me, but when you were looking at the sides of the cylinders, some of them appeared to me to look damaged, as if they had worn into the cylinder wall possibly. I noted the areas look a little darker, or had vertical wear lines. If the happens to be true, there wouldn't be much of a fix besides replacing the block (fingers crossed that isn't the case). Even when you free up the rings, the worn cylinder areas would prevent full sealing! Eeek.
My wife’s Prius has been having the same issues. I’ve been following these videos for a few months. Currently testing the sea foam in the crank right now. If that doesn’t fix it I’ll just keep adding oil till the wheels fall off lol Already told her to check and add oil every time she gets gas.
Prius 3rd gen early 2010-2012 has problems with head gasket too. Although usually after close to 200 000 miles. The oil consumption in 3rd gen is not that bad unless some owner who do 10 000 miles/1 year interval but not considering the requirement under normal condition only. If we drive short trips and a lot of cold start, Toyota in the manual said 5000 miles/6 months. even worse, some owners use non full synthetic 0W-20 oil like from quick lube 5W-30. The 2015 or newer virtually has no problem with oil consumption from redesigned head gasket 2013, piston 2014, and piston ring in 2015. Yes, get 2015 or newer for the best option.
Cool video. After I did my pcv I’ve gone 4 tanks of gas and still same oil level, no burning. Also before changing the pcv I would get the odor of hot motor oil coming in through the cabin. I could never figure it out. Now I know my issue was a faulty pcv and oil gases were passing though it and coming into the air in the cab. For me pcv was a huge difference, we’ll see how long my oil stays at its current level. Hope yours is pcv also.
Interesting, with warm compression that high, the major source must be valve guides and seals. You should be seeing blue smoke at startup. Problem is, I dont believe your compression numbers of 280 psi. What would be a compression ratio of 19:1 like in a diesel. At 178k miles and a qt of oil every few hundred miles, both rings and valve guides are worn out.
@Richard White this is not an issue with this engine. Toyota had designed it for mpg and used short skirt pistons and narrow rings. The biggest issue that the drain holes behind oil rings are very small diameter so they get easily plugged by carbon deposits and then oil rings get cooked into oil which has nowhere to go on 1.5mm oil ring. Engine with stuck oil rings will have good compression but will consume oil. The valve seals isn't the main issue here; replacing them would have worked about 30k prior. Toyota had replaced pistons and rings later for several engines of that timeframe.. 1.8L and 2.4L were affected. Unfortunately for that to happen it had to happen within 60k warranty period.
Previous video in this series: Is it the PCV valve?: th-cam.com/video/91gMq7QYN-I/w-d-xo.html Next video in this series: Valve seal replacement part 1: th-cam.com/video/09qes0cqnAQ/w-d-xo.html Entire oil burning experiment playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Sticking rings wouldn’t only stick at the top. I’m not a professional mechanic but diy all day. Could their be warping from the motor overheating at some point?
On Cyl No 1 I thought the top cylinder ring land might be burned/melted. Yikes. But luckily the cylinders just got a weird shapes because of the valve pockets.
Have you tried the old transmission fluid trick yet? Works well in diesel engines, Put a quart In the crank case roughly a 100 to 200 or so miles before an oil change and also a few quarts in the gas tank. Fill with correct amount of oil and add a quart transmission fluid, An extreme oil burning is usually valve seal guides or piston rings.
I dont care about Corollas I dont care about why your car is burning oil I have watched every damn video cause now i need to know what the problem is! And I bought a borescope and I have no use for it. Good job with the videos too
Change the valve cover gasket, looks like the circular gaskets that is keeping the oil out of the spark plug stem is bad. Possibly leaking past the spark plug threads
Might have a couple of bad valve guides where the valve is just slopping in its bronze guide. All of the spark plugs have at least some oil Ash on them, that's that white stuff that's on the electrodes. I believe those are iridium plugs, best plugs to have in that situation. Yes you will probably have to Hung those cylinders and put some better rings and make sure that the ring gaps are proper. Recently I found a 5.3 GM V8 that every single ring was gapped at doll from the factory which is almost twice more than it needs. And they wonder why the General Motors drink oil?
Cool that you took my suggestion! Do you see a big puff of white smoke during cold start? If not, I don’t think is a valve steam seal issue. Also, how much smoke do you see while engine idles at normal operating temp? Seems a lot of oil dripping down the cylinder walls to be coming from the spark plugs hole. Scoring doesn’t look that bad. Have you performed a leak down test? I am thinking head gasket issue or piston rings as suspected from the start.
Yeah, thanks for the tips Chris! ... No, I never see smoke when starting it, nor when it idles, nor when pulling off from stop lights---only if I rev it for a while. I haven't done a leak-down. ... Wait ... am I going to have to do that too before proceeding with any more chemicals?? :-)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY It will be good data to have, but I think people want to see if any chemical actually works for your scenario. You could rent the tool. I would leave the valve steam seals for last. Because it seems the oil consumption is happening while engine is at higher rpm and under load. Sounds you might have blow by through the piston rings into the intake. Which might explain the excessive carbon buildup on top of the pistons.
Have you ever put a Bore scope down into.... a nearly empty gas tank...? I'm intrested in seeing what sediments are floating around. Obviously not inserting it into fuel. My 007 Lexus IS350 has 171,400 miles. And I'm seriously considering changing the fuel filter.
hi dave piston and ring swap doing this weekends, and probally valve stem, very easy , and fun, i wish i could send you picture ... this engine very easy to work on
That motor is tired the bottom of the bores are polished like a mirrior the crosshatch is gone. the bore is taperd and oil is getting pushed up and getting burned. Heck try STP or hunny oil with comit cleaner mixed in to make a grity oil and put some in the spark plug holes and start it up. it may just brake that glaze.
Watched a few of your videos. Not all so some of this might hve aready been covered. Just my thoughts: This engine has 179 k on the clock what are your expecttions? All and any rubber seals gaskets will get hard and leak. My expieriance is with BMW but I would guess these are similar. Tons of oil on the top of the plugs says you are leaking up top and the valve cover needs to come off or at the least do some research to find out what should be or should have been replaced already. At 3:21 you are looking at one of the culprits as the first two plugs are wet from the top down. You can continue to pour stuff into the motor and hope this is a substitute for actual repairs or do the actual repairs. Thise plugs looked hideous. Full disclosure I ruined a perfectly good motor by running plugs too long with gaps too large. Put in the good plugs, gapped properly and find out everywhere oil could leak from. There aren't that many. The cross hatching in the cylinders is a good thing. If this is a daily and you can't have it down for a while you might buy a used longblock and do all the needed repairs to one out of the car and then swap it out. Out of curiosity how much have you spent to date not getting it fixed? Think you might be slowly spending your way to a big bill you will never see unless you take a step back....
A Leak down test only tests the upper portion of the piston rings and or if you have leaking valves. The oil control rings have no effect. I’d guess by the amount of carbon on the pistons you’re oil control rings are just pure gunked up beyond cleaning. If you decide to do rings and pistons do the valve seals and lap the Valves. I test mine with gasoline. If fuel seeps out the valves are not seated. And if the pistons are out replace the rods bearings at the same time. But one thing you could try is AC delco upper cylinder cleaner, let soak on top of the pistons, I’ve noticed if you let that soak it does a pretty good job removing carbon and may weep enough to the oil control rings and possibly free them up. Worth a shot before tear down. Good luck Dave
all those treatment and the carbon deposit is still there. subarus burn oil but on mine compression was perfect on all cylinders. Leakdown test was shown minimal loss and hg seems to have been changed. i checked the endoscope and could not see any oil. burning oil is a mystery. I add 1L every 2000KM in the beginning and then it gets worth. Thanks for the videos
Verticle scoring. Plenty, of it. When you have verticle scoring, it allows oil to push past piston rings. There are many verticle "ditches" which the piston rings, can not seal. The restorer, is what, is needed. I'm not saying, you dont have bad valve seals, but oil is absolutely, pushing past the poston rings. There is a good amount of pressure, in the crank case of an engine. When, previous owners don't perform preventive maintenance, on any make or model, the scoring happens. I have used engine restorer, for many years, with good results.
a compression test will tell you if rings or valves are leaking. check compression PSI at cold or hot, then squirt some oil in the chamber and check compression again if PSI increases by 8-10+ PSI. If so, then rings issues. If not, then leaking valves or valve stems leaking. Usually, a good cylinder with 140-160+ PSI is good, if 130 and below signs of a leak and between cylinders should not differ by no more than 10PSI.
I think it is a good idea to clean the engine first with a good treatment because carbon build up can cause misfires by robbing the cylinder of fuel by absorption. I have a similar problem with my v8 dodge ram and I would rather try to clean it first with treatments before thinking of removing the heads.
Did you do a compression test? The Haynes manual says if it’s leaking rings a squirt of oil will improve the compression for the test and if not you know it’s the valves/valve guides/seals A leak down test? I think a leak down test would give you a shot at figuring out where the problem is. In my opinion, throwing treatments at it without doing all the tests you can first to try and narrow down the process is not the best way ti go about it, because it’s harder to judge how things have changed. Need a compression test for a baseline, and a leak down test. I suggest put the seafoam in the crankcase and drive the snot out of it and make sure your oil doesn’t get too low. And also do the leak down test because that won’t help if it’s the valve guides.
Did the compression test in another vid, Craigie ... but haven't done leak-down yet. I'm about to do valve stem seals to eliminate that possibility as well. Thanks for the comment.
I think I watched most of your videos on the corolla out of order but I'm leaning on the head gasket and/or cracked head on the car. Most of the oil is coming from the top of the cylinder in the scopes. There's only a couple of ways this can happen and I'm going with the gasket/cracked head scenario because of the cylinders involved are next to one another. I'd like to get one of the scopes. Are they affordable?
You might be right. Some others have mentioned the head gasket as well. We’ll see 😁. I think I paid about $30 for the scope I bought. But if I did it again, I think I’d pay a little more to get one that can look backward and/or at right angles. Thanks for watching!
Have you changed your valve cover gasket? My 2004 Toyota Camry needed it and it also sealed up the top of the spark plug area where it meets the well. It could also be valve stem seals.
Engine looks healthy. All you have to do is to clean oil scrapper rings. Easiest way is to use Bg dynamic engine restoration kit, or for more advanced users dmso
Going back to the past 3 years id run it hot then spray h20 in to the intake with no filter steem clean them pistons do a head job put rotella in it and runner
The combustion chamber located in the cylinder head, where the valves are placed, has a certain inclination, it is not perfectly flat. The oil that drips next to the steam valves will not simply drip vertically, I think that, due to the adhesion of the oil to the metal walls, it will "go down" by adhering to the walls of the combustion chamber and the engine cylinders, respectively.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY yes, I think the oil comes from stem seals. Your engine seems to me to be 1.8 liters. If you search on youtube for images with a disassembled cylinder head, you will see the slope on the valves are placed. For this reason, I think the oil flows past the stem valves, drips on the walls of the combustion chambers and then you saw it with the endoscope. th-cam.com/video/3Uo0Esb0h84/w-d-xo.html Search after minute 2.17 and you will see the combustion chamber form with valvs position "in slope", the oil cannot drip vertically
Looks like the buildup of carbon on top of the Piston is slowly falling off getting stuck between the piston and the cylinder walls causing the scoring
You know, I have heard that techron injector cleaner dirties oil and is best used before an oil change, I wonder if it might help with those incredible oil deposits. Or a full bottle of marvel per tank of fuel etc. Hit the carbon from the top and bottom!
When valve stems were worn out on old v8 engines, upon starting the engine we would always see a puff of blue smoke out the tailpipe for a few seconds then it would go away. Telltail sign oil leaking down through the valve stem.
The plugs tell the story of oil burning..Also an oil added to the cylinder compression check..If the compression goes up it's the rings..I would just rebuild the top end of that engine..Those cylinders and plugs were loaded with carbon with oil
I think its rings. yes , oil was in spark plug well. IMO. My 98 corolla same thing. 170k on mine. oil has ruined evap and cat convert. dont have time or money to fix proper. i just keep putting oil in. and replace spark plugs about every 10k mi. What i dont know is...what will cause the final death? completely clogged cat conv? would high octane serve any good?
Bummer on your '98. Not sure what you mean about high octane, but I have to run premium in mine or it knocks. I wonder how they die too. Maybe someone who's killed one can chime in here eventually. Thanks for the comment!
Not sure if it could be a internal vacuum leak from the intake manifold gasket? I had an old Ford V-8 that was doing that. Pulling vacuum on inside intake manifold gasket that was leaking and sucking in oil especially when driving on freeway I really don’t know much about your engine design though.
I had that problem with my Depstech scope, too - their Android app seems to be a POS. If yours is the kind that plugs directly into the camera like mine, just search Google Play for 'OTG camera' for an alternative app. I'm not sure if it works with cameras that connect to the phone wirelessly, though.
@@alanerpington5698 yes mine connects directly via a type C cable. So that means the hunt for a stable camera app is on for android.. I tried the OTG View app and it has the same problem.
I'll get to it eventually, La Marc. I don't think it's the valve-stem seals, and I've already bought the Shooter Lube. So it'll probably be right after the valve-stem video.
Very neat, but's like watching "Oak Island." The motor is pushing 180K. If you are skilled, have attachments to the car, pull the motor and rebuild. Everything else is waving hands.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY there's a class action lawsuit going on against Toyota covering multiple models from 2006 to 2014 on this issue.. check if you qualify; oil consumption is piston/ring design issue.
You need to decarbonize that. Seafoam it through the intake, and maybe do an Italian tuneup( rev it up to 6000 rpm several times where safe, like a freeway on ramp).
I paid the mechanic to change my valve stem seals and he did just that. He didn't change piston rings and mine still burns oil same as before. I wish he did the piston rings too. Money and work wasted. My oil consumption has since gotten worse. I think he made a mistake when installing valve stem seals.
Oh no, Ahmad. Sorry to hear that. We'll whatever we do, I'm going to try to make it as easy and inexpensive as possible ... Maybe you'll be fixing yours too before this thing is over. Take care.
@@Skoda130 that is exactly what was happening in the video. he should have covered the hole. if you watch in slo mo, you can see the valves for a split second before he pulls it out. I know, that's what she said...
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY yes, you are right. I'm in need of one and now see there are more than 1 style of mirrors. I've see videos where they use a mirror to look at the valves and I ASSumed they were all the same. Now that I am ordering one for my purpose, i see I have to order the correct accessories.
Watch this video may help you out understand what goes on with oil consumption Why engine burning oil, Oil consumption, motorcraft, Pennzoil, Mobil 1, Schaeffer Ford Toyota, Chevy
If it were PCV, you would be seeing oil in an the cylinders. My best guess would be the valve stem seals. Oil accumulation in the sparkplug wells could be caused by spillage, but I've seen enough of your videos and I don't think that's the case. Could also be the seals there as well, but that's easy to test. Run the car and see if more oil accumulates. But again, I find it unlikely.
I hear those chipmunks screaming... I think that is them. I have TONS!!! Though they seem to keep the ticks down. Not sure what that oil is, I know my friends civ needed the head rebuilt. Had zero compression on 1 cyl. Was using a ton of oil too.
I think you'd be better off using injector cleaner ever gas fill, and use a high mileage semisynthetic oil with 10% marvel mystery oil. And maybe flush it every other oil change.
In one of your videos where you did a compression test, you had extremely high compressions on your cylinders. Looking at the build up on those piston heads, has this reduced the volume of the cylinder at TDC and inturn increased the compression ratio or at least the compression when the spark ignites the fuel? Increased compression would cause increased heat which may cause oil to break down and build up on the top of the piston and cylinder head. Is the increased heat and break down of the viscosity of the oil affecting the thinnest medal components like the rings the worse? Wonder if these engines need an oil that can withstand higher heats. The best cleaner I ever used on carbon build up was what we called "carb cleaner" and we had a holding tank filled with it and let parts soak in it. They would come out bare medal clean after about 24 hours. It was super corrosive to your hands so you had to wear rubber gloves. It was red in colour. I believe it was phosphoric acid but not sure as it was back in the late '80's. I've heard you can't buy it anymore but maybe other viewers remember this stuff.
That is truly an interesting theory about the compression, pjmoisso. Some viewers think my pressure tester is broken (though I know the specs can be pretty close to 240 psi for this engine---I think maybe 218 to 235 is "normal") add your theory to the mix and that would make sense. The carbon is definitely thick, and might have been thicker at the time of the test. This'll definitely give us something to ponder. Thanks for the comment!
I've read most modern engines should be around 175 psi and back when I pulled wrenches as a hobby, we expected around 150-160 psi out of our 350 small blocks. I'm not sold on the fact your gage is consistently off by over 50%. Toyotas fix was new pistons and rings. Are these new pistons and rings the same or have they lowered the compression ratio. Toyota never recalled this problem in Canada at least. All they did it Canada was offer some an extended warranty so to speak but was based on kilometres and age of the car and you had to prove the car burn oil. Most owners by the time they experienced an issue (around 160000 km), they were either past the kilometre limit or age limit. Really there needs to be a class action lawsuit against Toyota in my opinion because there are many toyotas this is happening too and I would expect many more to come. I was thinking of buying another Toyota but won't. I've had no issues with my Subaru so I personally will look at them when I go to buy a new car. Be interesting to find out if they changes the piston and rings or putting in the same old parts and hoping to get another 150k out of the engines just to satisfy customers.
@@PJM454 I believe the new pistons are the same with the exception that they have 3 or 4 oil drain-back holes in either side of the oil-ring groove, rather than the single holes of the original. They say the problem with the oil burning in these engines is the single oil drain holes get clogged quickly (especially with poor maintenance or only making short drives) and then when the oil can't drain back through the holes it remains on the cylinder walls and gets burned. I hope your Suburu continues to be a great vehicle. ... My daughter just bought a '14 Impreza.
Hey Dave, been watching your videos from Kenya 🇰🇪. I have been a victim of same problem. My Toyota burning oil. Could be a case of stuck piston rings, hence scouring you noticed from the inside. If this is the case then my advice is try Xado anti carbon, thank me later...
Hi Dave, I was going to suggest trying BGR's EPR or their 2 system engine restore solutions, but if those cylinder walls are scored, then chemical treatments and pcv valve changes won't help. But I'm following along to see if we can find a non-short block replacement solution here. Also, check out @thecarcarenut 's TH-cam channel. He's a Toyota master tech and has a video out on why Toyota engine's burn oil. Here's the link to it th-cam.com/video/v4JS7PybV2k/w-d-xo.html . This does not seem to be a Toyota-only issue as plenty of other manufacturers are having the same issue with oil burning.
Looking forward to next episode!
Thanks!
it is recommended that before removing the plugs to blow the wells out with an airline so as to prevent any debris from falling in
I think you are probably correct about the spark plug well theory and the oil on the cylinder walls.. I believe a new valve cover gasket set would include the seals to correct that issue. My son’s Nissan truck has a similar problem.
👍👍 Just picked up a new valve cover gasket with spark plug seals!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Just a heads up, there are two park plug seals. The ones at the top of the valve cover, you will get those in your kit. But there is also a place to leak half way down the spark plug tube. The tube itself can be unscrewed and you can use some kind of rtv to reseal it. Generally the best way to do that is to double up the valve cover nuts so they lock together and screw that tube right out of there. Could be either one in your case, just keep that in mind.
@@doctorwarpspeed8779 Good info! I'll keep that in mind.
A cylinder leak down test will tell you what your dealing with and which ones are suspect harbor freight sells a leak down kit
Reading through comments - I don’t think you need a leakdown tester for this. Sure, it would give you a better understanding for how much leakage you have, but that’s about it.
Do you have an air compressor and a compression tester? Some of the compression testers have various hoses that have a quick release to attach to the gauge. The quick release is often the same type to connect to a compressor hose.
You could then bring a piston to TDC and put about 30~60psi into the combustion chamber.
Remove the oil fill cap and oil dip stick.
Listen for any air hissing out of those two holes - inserting a length of vacuum line in your ear can be helpful to really hear the hiss.
That would tell you if you have cable leakage or piston ring leakage.
You could even remove the radiator cap and look for bubble in the water fill neck if you suspect a blown head gasket.
Hey Dave ,you definitely have some scoring going on there especially on #3 I would be concerned about that ,I can see some cross hatch but the verticle scores are a concern. With the bore scope in the cylinder have someone rock the crank you can probably see some side movement in the piston
Thanks Tommy. You’re probably right. I’ve watched a couple videos since making this (The Car Care Nut) and now I think I know a little better what to look for, and where to look for it. I’m probably going to do another scoping video on this to double-check the those walls. As I’m sure you know, if the walls are damaged then the engine is shot. We’ll see 😕
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I was gona recommend the car care nut, he's a veteran Toyota tech very informative. Good luck with it and I will continue to follow your videos, good stuff. Thanks.
Hey Dave, I have been watching your videos later in the series but just saw this one. I could be just me, but when you were looking at the sides of the cylinders, some of them appeared to me to look damaged, as if they had worn into the cylinder wall possibly. I noted the areas look a little darker, or had vertical wear lines. If the happens to be true, there wouldn't be much of a fix besides replacing the block (fingers crossed that isn't the case). Even when you free up the rings, the worn cylinder areas would prevent full sealing! Eeek.
It could be valve guides and seals or possible head gasket issue.
My wife’s Prius has been having the same issues. I’ve been following these videos for a few months. Currently testing the sea foam in the crank right now.
If that doesn’t fix it I’ll just keep adding oil till the wheels fall off lol
Already told her to check and add oil every time she gets gas.
Ha ha. I hear ya!
Prius 3rd gen early 2010-2012 has problems with head gasket too. Although usually after close to 200 000 miles. The oil consumption in 3rd gen is not that bad unless some owner who do 10 000 miles/1 year interval but not considering the requirement under normal condition only. If we drive short trips and a lot of cold start, Toyota in the manual said 5000 miles/6 months. even worse, some owners use non full synthetic 0W-20 oil like from quick lube 5W-30. The 2015 or newer virtually has no problem with oil consumption from redesigned head gasket 2013, piston 2014, and piston ring in 2015. Yes, get 2015 or newer for the best option.
Cool video. After I did my pcv I’ve gone 4 tanks of gas and still same oil level, no burning. Also before changing the pcv I would get the odor of hot motor oil coming in through the cabin. I could never figure it out. Now I know my issue was a faulty pcv and oil gases were passing though it and coming into the air in the cab. For me pcv was a huge difference, we’ll see how long my oil stays at its current level. Hope yours is pcv also.
Thanks, and thanks for the info, Lupe. Glad yours was a simple fix. Won't be long and we'll see if mine was the same problem. Have a good one!
The videos have convinced me to never buy another gas engine if I can afford it
Interesting, with warm compression that high, the major source must be valve guides and seals. You should be seeing blue smoke at startup. Problem is, I dont believe your compression numbers of 280 psi. What would be a compression ratio of 19:1 like in a diesel. At 178k miles and a qt of oil every few hundred miles, both rings and valve guides are worn out.
@Richard White this is not an issue with this engine. Toyota had designed it for mpg and used short skirt pistons and narrow rings. The biggest issue that the drain holes behind oil rings are very small diameter so they get easily plugged by carbon deposits and then oil rings get cooked into oil which has nowhere to go on 1.5mm oil ring. Engine with stuck oil rings will have good compression but will consume oil. The valve seals isn't the main issue here; replacing them would have worked about 30k prior.
Toyota had replaced pistons and rings later for several engines of that timeframe.. 1.8L and 2.4L were affected. Unfortunately for that to happen it had to happen within 60k warranty period.
Previous video in this series:
Is it the PCV valve?: th-cam.com/video/91gMq7QYN-I/w-d-xo.html
Next video in this series:
Valve seal replacement part 1: th-cam.com/video/09qes0cqnAQ/w-d-xo.html
Entire oil burning experiment playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Sticking rings wouldn’t only stick at the top. I’m not a professional mechanic but diy all day. Could their be warping from the motor overheating at some point?
Have you tried removing the valve cover to see the head internals' condition? It might show signs if the car was loved or abused.
On Cyl No 1 I thought the top cylinder ring land might be burned/melted. Yikes. But luckily the cylinders just got a weird shapes because of the valve pockets.
Have you tried the old transmission fluid trick yet? Works well in diesel engines, Put a quart In the crank case roughly a 100 to 200 or so miles before an oil change and also a few quarts in the gas tank. Fill with correct amount of oil and add a quart transmission fluid, An extreme oil burning is usually valve seal guides or piston rings.
I dont care about Corollas
I dont care about why your car is burning oil
I have watched every damn video cause now i need to know what the problem is!
And I bought a borescope and I have no use for it.
Good job with the videos too
Whoa! :-)
I have a different brand bore scope, very similar to yours, it has a mirror attachment that is equally as garbage.
Change the valve cover gasket, looks like the circular gaskets that is keeping the oil out of the spark plug stem is bad. Possibly leaking past the spark plug threads
That'll be coming soon, Kc.
Might have a couple of bad valve guides where the valve is just slopping in its bronze guide. All of the spark plugs have at least some oil Ash on them, that's that white stuff that's on the electrodes. I believe those are iridium plugs, best plugs to have in that situation.
Yes you will probably have to Hung those cylinders and put some better rings and make sure that the ring gaps are proper. Recently I found a 5.3 GM V8 that every single ring was gapped at doll from the factory which is almost twice more than it needs. And they wonder why the General Motors drink oil?
Cool that you took my suggestion!
Do you see a big puff of white smoke during cold start? If not, I don’t think is a valve steam seal issue.
Also, how much smoke do you see while engine idles at normal operating temp?
Seems a lot of oil dripping down the cylinder walls to be coming from the spark plugs hole. Scoring doesn’t look that bad. Have you performed a leak down test? I am thinking head gasket issue or piston rings as suspected from the start.
Yeah, thanks for the tips Chris! ... No, I never see smoke when starting it, nor when it idles, nor when pulling off from stop lights---only if I rev it for a while. I haven't done a leak-down. ... Wait ... am I going to have to do that too before proceeding with any more chemicals?? :-)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY It will be good data to have, but I think people want to see if any chemical actually works for your scenario. You could rent the tool.
I would leave the valve steam seals for last. Because it seems the oil consumption is happening while engine is at higher rpm and under load. Sounds you might have blow by through the piston rings into the intake. Which might explain the excessive carbon buildup on top of the pistons.
Have you ever put a Bore scope down into.... a
nearly empty gas tank...? I'm intrested in seeing what sediments are floating around. Obviously not inserting it into fuel. My 007 Lexus IS350 has 171,400 miles. And I'm seriously considering changing the fuel filter.
I think you need a new valve cover gasket, spark plug gaskets, spark plugs, valve seals, and pcv valve
He should just put in new rings if he’s gonna go that far
@@YeOldeGeezer none of what i said requires a head removal
hi dave piston and ring swap doing this weekends, and probally valve stem, very easy , and fun, i wish i could send you picture ... this engine very easy to work on
All done! Drove 1000km zero oil loss. Engine like brand new power … running like butter
Before 500km and litter oil burn
Somehow I just saw this. That's awesome! How's it doing now?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY amazing ! Drive already 20000 km , zero oils burn , engine runs like new ! Email me for details :)
That motor is tired the bottom of the bores are polished like a mirrior the crosshatch is gone. the bore is taperd and oil is getting pushed up and getting burned. Heck try STP or hunny oil with comit cleaner mixed in to make a grity oil and put some in the spark plug holes and start it up. it may just brake that glaze.
Watched a few of your videos. Not all so some of this might hve aready been covered. Just my thoughts:
This engine has 179 k on the clock what are your expecttions?
All and any rubber seals gaskets will get hard and leak. My expieriance is with BMW but I would guess these are similar. Tons of oil on the top of the plugs says you are leaking up top and the valve cover needs to come off or at the least do some research to find out what should be or should have been replaced already. At 3:21 you are looking at one of the culprits as the first two plugs are wet from the top down. You can continue to pour stuff into the motor and hope this is a substitute for actual repairs or do the actual repairs. Thise plugs looked hideous. Full disclosure I ruined a perfectly good motor by running plugs too long with gaps too large. Put in the good plugs, gapped properly and find out everywhere oil could leak from. There aren't that many. The cross hatching in the cylinders is a good thing. If this is a daily and you can't have it down for a while you might buy a used longblock and do all the needed repairs to one out of the car and then swap it out. Out of curiosity how much have you spent to date not getting it fixed? Think you might be slowly spending your way to a big bill you will never see unless you take a step back....
A Leak down test only tests the upper portion of the piston rings and or if you have leaking valves. The oil control rings have no effect. I’d guess by the amount of carbon on the pistons you’re oil control rings are just pure gunked up beyond cleaning. If you decide to do rings and pistons do the valve seals and lap the
Valves. I test mine with gasoline. If fuel seeps out the valves are not seated. And if the pistons are out replace the rods bearings at the same time. But one thing you could try is AC delco upper cylinder cleaner, let soak on top of the pistons, I’ve noticed if you let that soak it does a pretty good job removing carbon and may weep enough to the oil control rings and possibly free them up. Worth a shot before tear down. Good luck Dave
Thanks for all the advice Ryan.
all those treatment and the carbon deposit is still there.
subarus burn oil but on mine compression was perfect on all cylinders. Leakdown test was shown minimal loss and hg seems to have been changed. i checked the endoscope and could not see any oil. burning oil is a mystery. I add 1L every 2000KM in the beginning and then it gets worth. Thanks for the videos
thanks for the video. keep us posted!
You bet, James!
An Endodontist, the root canal drilling guy 😁
Verticle scoring. Plenty, of it. When you have verticle scoring, it allows oil to push past piston rings. There are many verticle "ditches" which the piston rings, can not seal. The restorer, is what, is needed. I'm not saying, you dont have bad valve seals, but oil is absolutely, pushing past the poston rings. There is a good amount of pressure, in the crank case of an engine. When, previous owners don't perform preventive maintenance, on any make or model, the scoring happens. I have used engine restorer, for many years, with good results.
maybe if the valve seals/guides are worn that is the oil coming in. Do you get blue smoke at first start-up which is caused by worn valve seals?
a compression test will tell you if rings or valves are leaking. check compression PSI at cold or hot, then squirt some oil in the chamber and check compression again if PSI increases by 8-10+ PSI. If so, then rings issues. If not, then leaking valves or valve stems leaking. Usually, a good cylinder with 140-160+ PSI is good, if 130 and below signs of a leak and between cylinders should not differ by no more than 10PSI.
I think it is a good idea to clean the engine first with a good treatment because carbon build up can cause misfires by robbing the cylinder of fuel by absorption. I have a similar problem with my v8 dodge ram and I would rather try to clean it first with treatments before thinking of removing the heads.
I think the 45 degree cross hatching is normal. It's likely the manufacturer's cylinder honing process.
Nice very interesting
Did you do a compression test?
The Haynes manual says if it’s leaking rings a squirt of oil will improve the compression for the test and if not you know it’s the valves/valve guides/seals
A leak down test? I think a leak down test would give you a shot at figuring out where the problem is.
In my opinion, throwing treatments at it without doing all the tests you can first to try and narrow down the process is not the best way ti go about it, because it’s harder to judge how things have changed. Need a compression test for a baseline, and a leak down test.
I suggest put the seafoam in the crankcase and drive the snot out of it and make sure your oil doesn’t get too low. And also do the leak down test because that won’t help if it’s the valve guides.
Did the compression test in another vid, Craigie ... but haven't done leak-down yet. I'm about to do valve stem seals to eliminate that possibility as well. Thanks for the comment.
I think I watched most of your videos on the corolla out of order but I'm leaning on the head gasket and/or cracked head on the car. Most of the oil is coming from the top of the cylinder in the scopes. There's only a couple of ways this can happen and I'm going with the gasket/cracked head scenario because of the cylinders involved are next to one another. I'd like to get one of the scopes. Are they affordable?
You might be right. Some others have mentioned the head gasket as well. We’ll see 😁. I think I paid about $30 for the scope I bought. But if I did it again, I think I’d pay a little more to get one that can look backward and/or at right angles. Thanks for watching!
Have you tried Techron fuel additive to clean the piston tops?
Have you changed your valve cover gasket? My 2004 Toyota Camry needed it and it also sealed up the top of the spark plug area where it meets the well. It could also be valve stem seals.
Haven't gotten to it yet, Michael, but it's coming!
If you use a compression tester and compression is low testing agaiin after adding oil should raise compression if the rings are not sealing .
How would a bad pcv cause low compression in one cylinder?
Engine looks healthy. All you have to do is to clean oil scrapper rings. Easiest way is to use Bg dynamic engine restoration kit, or for more advanced users dmso
Going back to the past 3 years id run it hot then spray h20 in to the intake with no filter steem clean them pistons do a head job put rotella in it and runner
could also be valve cover i suppose. 🤔 but normally youll see evidense of that as you look down the spark plug valley. 🤔🤔🤔 weird.
The combustion chamber located in the cylinder head, where the valves are placed, has a certain inclination, it is not perfectly flat. The oil that drips next to the steam valves will not simply drip vertically, I think that, due to the adhesion of the oil to the metal walls, it will "go down" by adhering to the walls of the combustion chamber and the engine cylinders, respectively.
So in your opinion the oil is coming from the stem seals?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY yes, I think the oil comes from stem seals.
Your engine seems to me to be 1.8 liters. If you search on youtube for images with a disassembled cylinder head, you will see the slope on the valves are placed. For this reason, I think the oil flows past the stem valves, drips on the walls of the combustion chambers and then you saw it with the endoscope.
th-cam.com/video/3Uo0Esb0h84/w-d-xo.html
Search after minute 2.17 and you will see the combustion chamber form with valvs position "in slope", the oil cannot drip vertically
Looks like the buildup of carbon on top of the Piston is slowly falling off getting stuck between the piston and the cylinder walls causing the scoring
I have a scope too and it's difficult sometimes to understand what you're looking at
You know, I have heard that techron injector cleaner dirties oil and is best used before an oil change, I wonder if it might help with those incredible oil deposits.
Or a full bottle of marvel per tank of fuel etc.
Hit the carbon from the top and bottom!
Good day from Ontario. Now is not the time because gas up here cost 1.72/litre, would high test gas once in awhile help burn carbon off more?? Thanks
I always run Costco premium (93 octane?) gas in my cars, Don. Is that what you mean? Or did you mean the special 110 stuff at select gas stations?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY No 93 is all we have here I think, I thought higher than 87 would maybe bure more carbon off Thanks
try looking up at the valves Dave
There seal under the rocker arms too maybe its leaking from there
When valve stems were worn out on old v8 engines, upon starting the engine we would always see a puff of blue smoke out the tailpipe for a few seconds then it would go away. Telltail sign oil leaking down through the valve stem.
I wonder if modern catalytic converters will hide that symptom. (all oil burned in the converter)
The plugs tell the story of oil burning..Also an oil added to the cylinder compression check..If the compression goes up it's the rings..I would just rebuild the top end of that engine..Those cylinders and plugs were loaded with carbon with oil
I love your videos. Im dealing with a 2016 accent 1.6gdi consuming 3-4 Liters every 5k.
Thanks! I hope you/we find an inexpensive cure.
I think its rings. yes , oil was in spark plug well. IMO. My 98 corolla same thing. 170k on mine. oil has ruined evap and cat convert. dont have time or money to fix proper. i just keep putting oil in. and replace spark plugs about every 10k mi.
What i dont know is...what will cause the final death? completely clogged cat conv?
would high octane serve any good?
Bummer on your '98. Not sure what you mean about high octane, but I have to run premium in mine or it knocks. I wonder how they die too. Maybe someone who's killed one can chime in here eventually. Thanks for the comment!
Change the valve cover gasket your plugs had oil on them
Not sure if it could be a internal vacuum leak from the intake manifold gasket? I had an old Ford V-8 that was doing that. Pulling vacuum on inside intake manifold gasket that was leaking and sucking in oil especially when driving on freeway
I really don’t know much about your engine design though.
Hmm. Something to think about, Michael.
Which app did you use? unfortunately the android app I got keeps crashing and the image keeps getting stuck.
I used the Depstech Viewer for iPhone, Ahmad.
I had that problem with my Depstech scope, too - their Android app seems to be a POS. If yours is the kind that plugs directly into the camera like mine, just search Google Play for 'OTG camera' for an alternative app. I'm not sure if it works with cameras that connect to the phone wirelessly, though.
@@alanerpington5698 yes mine connects directly via a type C cable. So that means the hunt for a stable camera app is on for android..
I tried the OTG View app and it has the same problem.
You could soak the pistons and get rid of the carbon and then scope again to se if it’s gone.
Your piston rings are stuck or more probably worn out causing the piston to pump oil
Not a scoring problem. I believe your cilynder 3 at head gasket is leaking oil inside the cylinder. HG problem.
I was so hoping that you could do the shooter lube. My car uses oil & I've done basically the same steps you have done so far to no avail.
I'll get to it eventually, La Marc. I don't think it's the valve-stem seals, and I've already bought the Shooter Lube. So it'll probably be right after the valve-stem video.
Very neat, but's like watching "Oak Island." The motor is pushing 180K. If you are skilled, have attachments to the car, pull the motor and rebuild. Everything else is waving hands.
Use the shooter lube to disolve the carbon then use endscope to see if carbon is removed
looks like valve seals... do a leak down test before anything else.
Ok why was the oil trapped there by the plug ??
I think u got a sticky valve spring valve
The cylinder walls are toast the crosshatching is gone you can clearly see it, nice and shiny at the bottom.
Aw, man ... I hope not. Thanks for the comment, cyclopathic.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY there's a class action lawsuit going on against Toyota covering multiple models from 2006 to 2014 on this issue.. check if you qualify; oil consumption is piston/ring design issue.
You need to decarbonize that. Seafoam it through the intake, and maybe do an Italian tuneup( rev it up to 6000 rpm several times where safe, like a freeway on ramp).
Maybe you need to replace the pcv valve
:-)
It seems you have bad valve seals, that leak oil from above into the cylinders, hence oil around spark plugs
Thanks, Yalchin. We'll hopefully test that theory soon.
Try water base cleaner use in shop clean parts in tub / use Engine kleen 3.0z each spark plugs hole soak see if take carbon off . drain oil out first
I'm gonna have to research that, Glenn, but I'm a little wary of putting water in the engine. Thanks for the suggestion.
That oil is common from the head not from the rings it's top down
The cylinder walls are toast... you need a new short block :-\
I bet your cylinders have a groove at TDC.
Oil leaking from the valve train thru the Valve stem seals!
We do the valve stem seals in a later video, and find out if you're right or not :-) ... Thanks for watching!
I paid the mechanic to change my valve stem seals and he did just that. He didn't change piston rings and mine still burns oil same as before. I wish he did the piston rings too. Money and work wasted. My oil consumption has since gotten worse. I think he made a mistake when installing valve stem seals.
Oh no, Ahmad. Sorry to hear that. We'll whatever we do, I'm going to try to make it as easy and inexpensive as possible ... Maybe you'll be fixing yours too before this thing is over. Take care.
Looks like cyl 2 piston is broken.
I think the Mirror is for looking at your Valves. not the side of the cylinder.
In that case, your image will probably be overexposed to light falling in through the spark plug hole.
@@Skoda130 that is exactly what was happening in the video. he should have covered the hole. if you watch in slo mo, you can see the valves for a split second before he pulls it out. I know, that's what she said...
Thanks for the input, Jason, I'll test it again, but it does appear that the mirror is set at a 45 degree angle to the lens.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY yes, you are right. I'm in need of one and now see there are more than 1 style of mirrors. I've see videos where they use a mirror to look at the valves and I ASSumed they were all the same. Now that I am ordering one for my purpose, i see I have to order the correct accessories.
valve cover gasket is short too
Change the head gasket
Watch this video may help you out understand what goes on with oil consumption
Why engine burning oil, Oil consumption, motorcraft, Pennzoil, Mobil 1, Schaeffer Ford Toyota, Chevy
If it were PCV, you would be seeing oil in an the cylinders. My best guess would be the valve stem seals.
Oil accumulation in the sparkplug wells could be caused by spillage, but I've seen enough of your videos and I don't think that's the case. Could also be the seals there as well, but that's easy to test. Run the car and see if more oil accumulates. But again, I find it unlikely.
Hopefully we'll get to the bottom of it soon, Frank. Thanks for the comment!
I hear those chipmunks screaming... I think that is them. I have TONS!!! Though they seem to keep the ticks down. Not sure what that oil is, I know my friends civ needed the head rebuilt. Had zero compression on 1 cyl. Was using a ton of oil too.
We do have lots of chipmunks around, NG, but the birds (and planes) are so loud around here, I'm not sure which is which :-)
Change the valve cover properly with RTV silicon all over again.
I think you'd be better off using injector cleaner ever gas fill, and use a high mileage semisynthetic oil with 10% marvel mystery oil. And maybe flush it every other oil change.
Change your PCV Valve.
In one of your videos where you did a compression test, you had extremely high compressions on your cylinders. Looking at the build up on those piston heads, has this reduced the volume of the cylinder at TDC and inturn increased the compression ratio or at least the compression when the spark ignites the fuel? Increased compression would cause increased heat which may cause oil to break down and build up on the top of the piston and cylinder head. Is the increased heat and break down of the viscosity of the oil affecting the thinnest medal components like the rings the worse? Wonder if these engines need an oil that can withstand higher heats. The best cleaner I ever used on carbon build up was what we called "carb cleaner" and we had a holding tank filled with it and let parts soak in it. They would come out bare medal clean after about 24 hours. It was super corrosive to your hands so you had to wear rubber gloves. It was red in colour. I believe it was phosphoric acid but not sure as it was back in the late '80's. I've heard you can't buy it anymore but maybe other viewers remember this stuff.
That is truly an interesting theory about the compression, pjmoisso. Some viewers think my pressure tester is broken (though I know the specs can be pretty close to 240 psi for this engine---I think maybe 218 to 235 is "normal") add your theory to the mix and that would make sense. The carbon is definitely thick, and might have been thicker at the time of the test. This'll definitely give us something to ponder. Thanks for the comment!
I've read most modern engines should be around 175 psi and back when I pulled wrenches as a hobby, we expected around 150-160 psi out of our 350 small blocks. I'm not sold on the fact your gage is consistently off by over 50%. Toyotas fix was new pistons and rings. Are these new pistons and rings the same or have they lowered the compression ratio. Toyota never recalled this problem in Canada at least. All they did it Canada was offer some an extended warranty so to speak but was based on kilometres and age of the car and you had to prove the car burn oil. Most owners by the time they experienced an issue (around 160000 km), they were either past the kilometre limit or age limit. Really there needs to be a class action lawsuit against Toyota in my opinion because there are many toyotas this is happening too and I would expect many more to come. I was thinking of buying another Toyota but won't. I've had no issues with my Subaru so I personally will look at them when I go to buy a new car. Be interesting to find out if they changes the piston and rings or putting in the same old parts and hoping to get another 150k out of the engines just to satisfy customers.
@@PJM454 I believe the new pistons are the same with the exception that they have 3 or 4 oil drain-back holes in either side of the oil-ring groove, rather than the single holes of the original. They say the problem with the oil burning in these engines is the single oil drain holes get clogged quickly (especially with poor maintenance or only making short drives) and then when the oil can't drain back through the holes it remains on the cylinder walls and gets burned. I hope your Suburu continues to be a great vehicle. ... My daughter just bought a '14 Impreza.
Need new valve seals
Valve seal could be the culprit
You need valve seals
Probably bad valve guides I had a Honda Civic that would eat through oil because of that problem
Yikes. I hope not, Gary.
Try 'scoping the back sides of the valves.
That's a good idea, Jeff. Thanks for the suggestion!
Hey Dave, been watching your videos from Kenya 🇰🇪.
I have been a victim of same problem. My Toyota burning oil.
Could be a case of stuck piston rings, hence scouring you noticed from the inside.
If this is the case then my advice is try Xado anti carbon, thank me later...
Hi Dave, I was going to suggest trying BGR's EPR or their 2 system engine restore solutions, but if those cylinder walls are scored, then chemical treatments and pcv valve changes won't help. But I'm following along to see if we can find a non-short block replacement solution here.
Also, check out @thecarcarenut 's TH-cam channel. He's a Toyota master tech and has a video out on why Toyota engine's burn oil. Here's the link to it th-cam.com/video/v4JS7PybV2k/w-d-xo.html . This does not seem to be a Toyota-only issue as plenty of other manufacturers are having the same issue with oil burning.
Any updates?
I haven't had a chance to get back to it since the PCV valve video, James. There will be more to come though.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks for the reply! Very interested for the follow up!
coming week im going to change piston and ring in my 1zzfe,
If you would, please let us know how it goes, Fahim!
Recommend 2x
I have G6 199,67 miles 1 quart every 3,ooo miles , 2001 tahoe 183,000 mi, 1 quart every 2,500 mi