@DR SHEKEL MR KIKE The cambium is complicated, but it doesn't need to be complicated to graft. I think it is safest to think of it as the actual juncture of the bark and wood. IF you peel the bark off, some is left on the inside of the bark layer and some on the surface of the wood. It lays down cells for wood on the wood and for bark on the bark. So think of it as that thin juncture and line that up as well as possible.
Grafting Lessons Series is very informative, and more so for backyard hobby gardeners.. Thanks for easy to follow presentation. You have mentioned in some lessons that such and such grafting technique is good in this and another grafting technique is good in another season. I suggest that a lesson in grafting techniques relation to the seasons (spring/ summer/ fall etc) will be very useful for backyard gardeners identifying bad/ good/ better/best grafting techniques for each season and the reasons why for success or failure.
Well this sums up most of my mistakes last year from my first try at grafting 😂 Old dehydrated scions, bad cuts & not sealing. Shocked I got any to take.
The chickens comments were awesome, though I think she is a little critical of your on camera technique. I would have a chat with her, and remind her of the cook pot. Another great video. Thank You.
RedWolf Woodsman that chicken's a talentless hack. I've read her commentaries on Eisenstein and I'm telling you, that hen knows nothing about directing film. oughta just stop flapping her gums, frankly...you know, if she had any.
Total prima Donna . She can't just wait for her part. Her coop is too small, pecking at the catering table and then throwing it up behind a tree, Do these feathers make my tail look fat? get me a starbucks, "I can't work under these conditions" (eyeroll...)
Hey man, great series, I was wondering, have you ever seen or tried a cleft graft where after a time, rather than removing one of the two scions stuck in the cleft, a person would tie them together so they grow out as one branch? Or possibly trying to graft them together like a "wild" graft? I saw it in some book somewhere, that I cant find now, but I'm curious if that would ever work, or just be a bad idea in the long run for some reason...
Thank you so much this is something I'm excited to try. You are very knowledgeable about grafting. The Best to explain to where we understand. New subscriber here. Bless your channel
You are the first instructor I have heard to emphasize that the cambium layer is also on the white wood even when the springtime Bark is peeled away most of the visible cambium stays on the bark and that confused me in many grafting lesson involving slipping the wedge scion under the bark. Nazar Nasir expanded that to me in a comment discussion but you volunteered in your lecture which is rare in video instructoon
Yes, if it weren't on the wood as well, then most bark grafting methods in common use would not work. I think the cambium layer is much more complex than it is usually made out to be. I should set up some grafts and dissect them over time to show what is happening.
I'm not really sure. I suspect it's a lot more complicated than I make it out to be, or than just it is definitely exactly this layer. But functionally, it works to think of it as the space between the bark and wood. Some is left on the bark and some on the wood if you peel the bark away. That tells you somethingl.
The best time to graft (behind the bark) is for me (europe 48N )in may, the key is to graft when the moon is in the cycle before full moon, I personaly graft the week from half moon to full moon in may and have realy realy good results, like 99% on the apple trees. Great series btw.
Thanks for that. I am usually grafting whenever I can pull it off. I've had very good luck with rind grafts in general, though I use wood grafts a lot more.
I had viewed so many peer reviewed videos on grafting.but I got everything still 5pc was missing n my bro gave me everything.if amature then ok if professional then listen this lecture then look all videos then come back to this video.summary is here.
what best time for grafting? early morning when tree start active photosintesis, or evening/night when tree stop photosintesis. And soil condition, many opinion said dry soil get cambium layer more tight than wet soil
I'm not sure on soil condition. I've never heard that it makes any difference. Morning or night shouldn't matter. It takes a long time for the graft to heal anyway. I just do it when I have time.
going to graft some figs in the next few days and they are supposed to be even more forgiving than apples and pears, just have to deal with the latex after the cuts.
My bro I studied peensstate University n my others but basic fundamentals u said it's 80 pc above those scientist .I know they r better then u in science but they can't explain n who explain from university they try their best but how to explain everything to everyone.its great bro.like ur hairstyle.
Sir, I have done grafting for my grapes vine on one branch in march 2018 , after one month I found the branch where I did grafting on it , started to dry along with scion & going down all the way and dry up toward the root stock after that I removed it to avoid any further damage to the grape vine.. so the graft did not successed ... I need your help .. if you dont mind .. having a look at my video in my youtube channel "How to Graft Grapes Vines" let me know what I have done wrong .. I would really appreciate your input and advice.. many thanks
Could you do a video on grafting to reduce tree size( bark grafting low branches on standard tree to create lower canopy so you can cut off the top of the tree) if that is even possible? Thank you these videos are awesome. Helped my technique a ton
That's usually not a good idea, because it leaves large wounds. Usually it would be done by cutting back into large wood and regrowing the top of the tree, known as topworking. I never really do that. Hard to say, but you may need to start over or accept what you have.
Ok. The reason I want to do this is its too high and its a real pain to spray or get to the fruit...so I don't bother. I was thinking of one other option, maybe graft all of the small branches way up high to a flowering crab variety and then let the tree do the growth it wants to do way up there for the most part. It would help with pollination, I could put the pruning ladder away for good and the area out of reach wouldnt have fruit acting as a host for diseases... though that growth would still shade the understory. I wonder if there is a really "low vigor" variety of flowering crab that would be a good candidate for this type of approach - do you know of one? I was also thinking of trying doing cleft grafts but instead of lining things in straight alignment like its typically done, making the scion go at a right angle or even pointing slightly downward and keep the buds that point downward and outward. Sort cultivate an open vase "weeping" form to get the high growth closer to the ground. It seems like its possible, have people done this? Thank you!
I just can't say much without seeing the tree. I'll make big cuts to bring a head down, but you have to accept that it is probably going to shorten the life of the tree. You might also consider, starting a replacement now off to one side and then start experimenting on the big one.
My grafting succeed but after I remove the parafilm it die back, do you think I should never remove the parafilm for 6 months? Or else it will girdle & die. ? How do you protect it from the high wind and too much sunlight. Maybe I should clift graft a long cut .
my scion never join with roots stock, not sure why its happening, i try to match cambian layer as much i could but still same mean result unsuccessful , i live in perth, western australia and its spring now , anyone know whats the reason and any advice from anyone?
I thought you want to be grafting when everything is completely dormant. Am I wrong and it's actually best to be grafting just before or as the trees are coming out of dormancy?
I prefer to graft before the buds open to flower, but while they are flowering is fine too. Somewhere between late february and bud break is the best time here. Might be a little early some places, but it's not that cold here.
yeah, grafting onto flowering trees is fine. You just don't want to miss the first strong growth push in the spring. Warm weather grafts at bloom time heal fast and generally do well.
not always. the best thing is to think of it as the space between the bark and the wood, just the very thin line there. It is more complicated than that, because the cambium is a region with some laying bark and some laying down wood on the other side,, but if you always try to line that juncture up and not the bark or the wood, you will be doing well.
No, we'll get to that in the next video. You can take wood during the growing season, either old wood or new and get away with grafting it. There are reasons that dormant wood is popular though.
Really enjoying the grafting videos. I had no idea grafting was applied like it is. I had heard of it but only like art based stuff like the heart tree. I assumed it was very hard like you had to be a wizard to do it. I am really excited to learn some more and try it.
Yeah, part of why I'm here is to demystify the process and make it accessible. Same goes for a lot of other stuff that has become almost mythic now, but is just stuff that people used to do.
This is the best explanation video on grafting that I have ever seen and I’ve seen a lot. You have a gift for teaching. Nice work.
I am binge watching this grafting lesson series. Awesome, thanks for answering all of the critical questions in such an organized way!
I honestly don't get why you're lost in the youtube algorithm. This channel deserves better. It's a matter of time. Probably won't be too long.
I just went over 10,000 subs, so that should help.
Yeah, this channel is still totally underrated!
well i came across this channel at 44.9k subs and it was recomended to me randomly. so i guess you are in the algorithm now, congrats
@DR SHEKEL MR KIKE The cambium is complicated, but it doesn't need to be complicated to graft. I think it is safest to think of it as the actual juncture of the bark and wood. IF you peel the bark off, some is left on the inside of the bark layer and some on the surface of the wood. It lays down cells for wood on the wood and for bark on the bark. So think of it as that thin juncture and line that up as well as possible.
Thanks, I was not aware of how the cambrium layer worked. Excellent video.
Grafting Lessons Series is very informative, and more so for backyard hobby gardeners.. Thanks for easy to follow presentation.
You have mentioned in some lessons that such and such grafting technique is good in this and another grafting technique is good in another season. I suggest that a lesson in grafting techniques relation to the seasons (spring/ summer/ fall etc) will be very useful for backyard gardeners identifying bad/ good/ better/best grafting techniques for each season and the reasons why for success or failure.
"That's the only version I understand and I think the only version we need to understand". Brilliant!
Best info I've seen on youtube about grafting. Looking forward to the next part.
Thanks, coming right up!
Well this sums up most of my mistakes last year from my first try at grafting 😂 Old dehydrated scions, bad cuts & not sealing. Shocked I got any to take.
Better luck this year :)
I can't wait to start doing this in the spring! Thanks for the instruction.
The chickens comments were awesome, though I think she is a little critical of your on camera technique. I would have a chat with her, and remind her of the cook pot. Another great video. Thank You.
RedWolf Woodsman that chicken's a talentless hack. I've read her commentaries on Eisenstein and I'm telling you, that hen knows nothing about directing film. oughta just stop flapping her gums, frankly...you know, if she had any.
Total prima Donna . She can't just wait for her part. Her coop is too small, pecking at the catering table and then throwing it up behind a tree, Do these feathers make my tail look fat? get me a starbucks, "I can't work under these conditions" (eyeroll...)
I just found this channel because I wanted to learn why my graft failed, awesome material, thanks! I'm going to binge the whole grafting series!
Awesome. I like bingers :). don't forget to go outside and do stuff though ha ha.
Loving the series and appreciate the chalk drawings for clarification
I was watching this late at night and that chicken scared the heck out of me.
I thought it was a sad dog at first
I think that the chicken was filming it
Hey man, great series, I was wondering, have you ever seen or tried a cleft graft where after a time, rather than removing one of the two scions stuck in the cleft, a person would tie them together so they grow out as one branch? Or possibly trying to graft them together like a "wild" graft? I saw it in some book somewhere, that I cant find now, but I'm curious if that would ever work, or just be a bad idea in the long run for some reason...
Thanks for the excellent information
Excellent explanation. Thank you very much.
Thank you so much this is something I'm excited to try. You are very knowledgeable about grafting. The Best to explain to where we understand. New subscriber here. Bless your channel
You are the first instructor I have heard to emphasize that the cambium layer is also on the white wood even when the springtime Bark is peeled away most of the visible cambium stays on the bark and that confused me in many grafting lesson involving slipping the wedge scion under the bark. Nazar Nasir expanded that to me in a comment discussion but you volunteered in your lecture which is rare in video instructoon
Yes, if it weren't on the wood as well, then most bark grafting methods in common use would not work. I think the cambium layer is much more complex than it is usually made out to be. I should set up some grafts and dissect them over time to show what is happening.
Finally somebody explains this cambium layer.. Seems like this layer can't be seen?
I'm not really sure. I suspect it's a lot more complicated than I make it out to be, or than just it is definitely exactly this layer. But functionally, it works to think of it as the space between the bark and wood. Some is left on the bark and some on the wood if you peel the bark away. That tells you somethingl.
The best time to graft (behind the bark) is for me (europe 48N )in may, the key is to graft when the moon is in the cycle before full moon, I personaly graft the week from half moon to full moon in may and have realy realy good results, like 99% on the apple trees. Great series btw.
Thanks for that. I am usually grafting whenever I can pull it off. I've had very good luck with rind grafts in general, though I use wood grafts a lot more.
I had viewed so many peer reviewed videos on grafting.but I got everything still 5pc was missing n my bro gave me everything.if amature then ok if professional then listen this lecture then look all videos then come back to this video.summary is here.
:)
Thank you so much ❤
THANK YOU.
Was going to start my grafting tomorrow, but think now I'll wait for part 7....
Part 7 is the basic cuts. Shot it yesterday. should be up today, next are cleft and whip and tongue grafts, then rind grafting and frameworking,
what best time for grafting? early morning when tree start active photosintesis, or evening/night when tree stop photosintesis.
And soil condition, many opinion said dry soil get cambium layer more tight than wet soil
I'm not sure on soil condition. I've never heard that it makes any difference. Morning or night shouldn't matter. It takes a long time for the graft to heal anyway. I just do it when I have time.
going to graft some figs in the next few days and they are supposed to be even more forgiving than apples and pears, just have to deal with the latex after the cuts.
I actually haven't grafted figs. Never needed to, I've just grown them from cuttings, but a frankenfig would be cool.
My bro I studied peensstate University n my others but basic fundamentals u said it's 80 pc above those scientist .I know they r better then u in science but they can't explain n who explain from university they try their best but how to explain everything to everyone.its great bro.like ur hairstyle.
That was a great video Mr. you are really professional ... good job and very informative .. many thanks .. well done
:)
Sir, I have done grafting for my grapes vine on one branch in march 2018 , after one month I found the branch where I did grafting on it , started to dry along with scion & going down all the way and dry up toward the root stock after that I removed it to avoid any further damage to the grape vine.. so the graft did not successed ... I need your help .. if you dont mind .. having a look at my video in my youtube channel "How to Graft Grapes Vines"
let me know what I have done wrong .. I would really appreciate your input and advice.. many thanks
I don't graft grapes, so I can't really help. I think they are usually budded, but I'm not really sure. I just grow them from cuttings.
Thanks a lot for your prompt reply .. yes from cutting it grows very well
I wasn't sure if that noise was my stomach or a chicken, at first, because I had my earbuds in.
T göz aşısı yaparken kabuk kambiyum nasıl kaynasiyor.
Could you do a video on grafting to reduce tree size( bark grafting low branches on standard tree to create lower canopy so you can cut off the top of the tree) if that is even possible? Thank you these videos are awesome. Helped my technique a ton
That's usually not a good idea, because it leaves large wounds. Usually it would be done by cutting back into large wood and regrowing the top of the tree, known as topworking. I never really do that. Hard to say, but you may need to start over or accept what you have.
Ok. The reason I want to do this is its too high and its a real pain to spray or get to the fruit...so I don't bother. I was thinking of one other option, maybe graft all of the small branches way up high to a flowering crab variety and then let the tree do the growth it wants to do way up there for the most part. It would help with pollination, I could put the pruning ladder away for good and the area out of reach wouldnt have fruit acting as a host for diseases... though that growth would still shade the understory. I wonder if there is a really "low vigor" variety of flowering crab that would be a good candidate for this type of approach - do you know of one?
I was also thinking of trying doing cleft grafts but instead of lining things in straight alignment like its typically done, making the scion go at a right angle or even pointing slightly downward and keep the buds that point downward and outward. Sort cultivate an open vase "weeping" form to get the high growth closer to the ground. It seems like its possible, have people done this? Thank you!
I just can't say much without seeing the tree. I'll make big cuts to bring a head down, but you have to accept that it is probably going to shorten the life of the tree. You might also consider, starting a replacement now off to one side and then start experimenting on the big one.
My grafting succeed but after I remove the parafilm it die back, do you think I should never remove the parafilm for 6 months? Or else it will girdle & die. ? How do you protect it from the high wind and too much sunlight. Maybe I should clift graft a long cut .
If it's not choking off the growth, you don't need to unwrap. Parafilm should fall off on it's own anyway.
my scion never join with roots stock, not sure why its happening, i try to match cambian layer as much i could but still same mean result unsuccessful , i live in perth, western australia and its spring now , anyone know whats the reason and any advice from anyone?
I thought you want to be grafting when everything is completely dormant. Am I wrong and it's actually best to be grafting just before or as the trees are coming out of dormancy?
I prefer to graft before the buds open to flower, but while they are flowering is fine too. Somewhere between late february and bud break is the best time here. Might be a little early some places, but it's not that cold here.
dormancy is not necessary, just better if the scions are dormant.
Why my epycotyl grafting still failing ?
You need green chalk. Great series.
Thanks. I need new chalk. It all got damp.
Buds are swelling and about to break open, is it too late?
Commented too soon. At the end you were grafting onto a flowered tree?
yeah, grafting onto flowering trees is fine. You just don't want to miss the first strong growth push in the spring. Warm weather grafts at bloom time heal fast and generally do well.
Thanks!
Is cambian color green ? Thanks
not always. the best thing is to think of it as the space between the bark and the wood, just the very thin line there. It is more complicated than that, because the cambium is a region with some laying bark and some laying down wood on the other side,, but if you always try to line that juncture up and not the bark or the wood, you will be doing well.
@@SkillCult Thank you !!
Do you have to use dormant wood?
No, we'll get to that in the next video. You can take wood during the growing season, either old wood or new and get away with grafting it. There are reasons that dormant wood is popular though.
Really enjoying the grafting videos. I had no idea grafting was applied like it is. I had heard of it but only like art based stuff like the heart tree. I assumed it was very hard like you had to be a wizard to do it. I am really excited to learn some more and try it.
Yeah, part of why I'm here is to demystify the process and make it accessible. Same goes for a lot of other stuff that has become almost mythic now, but is just stuff that people used to do.
10*
Thanks for sharing the lesson of Grafting / Why Graft Succeed or Fail @-@ *_* o_o