Thanks for the reminder as it was time to do a little maintenance on my desoldering station (a cheapie Tenma but works well on the occasions I need it to) and stock up on a couple of new tips and solder and rosin filters. I hate those TMP connectors but you actually can make your own if you're careful. I found that the very end of my regular wire connector crimpers is a perfect fit for the braid flange on the TMP; it's always helpful to have some extension cables made up with those connectors to separate assemblies...best example was Peter's TRX Bench recent fix of the Yaesu FT-817. Thanks for sharing Mike!
Dino Papas Yep, don't forget maintenance on the soldering/ desoldering station. It needs a little love every once in a while to. Actually had to restock my TMP connectors recently. One of the few companies that stocks them is less than 20 mile away from me.
Great advice as usual, especially with regards to using a shield when soldering/desoldering around thick and dense wire harnesses. I use lots makeshift shields of made of dense, heat resistant scrap metal. Very useful when using hot air or tweezers.
I need to go through my HR-2510 and change out the caps and clean out the glue, though my 2510 is in serious need of an alignment but other than that it still looks and works fantastic. I've noticed the RF power output has steadily declined over the years. Originally, it did around 35 watts on SSB but I don't use it much and have never "tweaked" the output power the way a lot of people tend to do with these radios. Only thing I ever did to it was install a ChipSwitch CPU to give it more useful features and so I could monitor 12-meters, which I must say it does VERY well.
Nice tips Mike. I have found that the original capacitors in these rigs are crap. Lots of problems from no receive no transmit and destroyed cpu boards. There was even a batch of them where they had the Sony bond on the cpu board. Thanks again my friend.
Before pulling connectors apart, take a picture ! And if you have to during disassembly, take more pictures ! As the old adage goes, " A picture is worth a Thousand words " ! 👍😉
I will be sending mine out soon.for recap. I am waiting on an eq to arrive so you can match up the mic connectors. I can not wait to get her too you and back again!!!
Bought one new when they came out, and it was already converted to 11 meters. Used it in my mobile with a 102 inch quarter wave stainless steel whip and it worked exceptionally well. I think it did 15 watt's am and 40 sideband. Had it for a couple years and lost interest in CB so I sold to a guy at work.
🙌💤🎥🎬 good video Mike I've owned several HR 2510. One of my favorite radios sounds like you know Dan in my world associated radio Kansas City Missouri my name is b James
Yes, this is true of my (3 - yep, three) Radio Shack desoldering irons; the tips get to the point where there's not enough contact point with the solder and pad. Fortunately, the tips weren't too expensive. It's just that they kept only a few replacement tips in stock at any one time, so I always bought all they had each time I went!
William Squires The pace tips last a really looooooong time compared to everything else I have ever used. Its just that it gets used so much on my bench. When they switched to the newer types with the stainless steel liner that goes almost all the way to the tip increased my tip life probably ten times or more. I think its the really old time flux in the old tube rigs I work on that really eat away at the inside of the tips.
I agree too. I use a very similar Pace desolder system as well and the current offering of their compatible tips last a reasonably long time. My common rework involves desoldering SAC 305 solder off of very small BGA pads using Pace precision tips. To make matters more challenging, the boards are very densely populated down to 0201 parts as well as having really large ground planes. The only addition heat comes from a convection under-board pre-heater
Conductive glue on mine ate through the trace feeding B+ to the finals causing no transmit. Found it when I started checking voltages since it appeared everything was working correctly just no output. I also had to change the mic element in mine. I had 3 or 4 different problems, all unrelated. What a troubleshooting nightmare. I have it fixed now, but I will have to go back in and change the caps sometime.
One of my 2510s had the 'glue' on several wires that held them stable to the circuit board. This stuff turned brown and etched through the copper trace under it, cutting the B+ supply to the finals.
Remember to pick that glue off the resonator, the one I just fixed was faulted because of that glue shorting out the traces underneath it (as well as the super cap being shorted out killing the 5v regulator)
Hi Mike enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. I picked up an HR2600 from a hamfest last week it was still in the box and had not been used. Im sure at some point I will recap it but it ( has Rubicons in it so maybe last a Little longer dont know)Its mint but first off took a few seconds for lcd freq numbers to come up then was OK. Radio is working but found the mic element is open. Do you know if there are any mike elements available for this? Looks like 500 ohm dynamic. Im looking for a direct replacement that will drop right in. Also seems odd a mic that was never used would have a bad element. Keep up the good work! John
I wouldn't know unless I had the element in front of me to look at. There are sooooo many different cartridges. Use doesn't really make an element go bad, time, vibration and moisture is what kills them. Electrolytic caps actually go bad faster not being used than they do being used occasionally. Every time you turn on a radio the capacitors reform. When not used for long periods of time the aluminium starts to deteriorate and damage the insulating paper separating the plates which leads to shorts and caps with high ESR. Also the oil just dries out over time. They are very likely overdue for replacement.
Informative video.. But I have a question about alignment. I have a HR2510 that has been modified for frequency, and other various mods, When you do the alignment do you align with 28.000 MHz like it states in the service manual or you use another frequency in the 27.000 MHz ?
Mike, I have a cobra 200 gtl dx that works on low but no high power. I don't have a way to test the pills. I need it fixed. Do you work on that type of radio, and if so, how much do you charge? Your videos are good, but I don't have all the proper equipment to test repair and align. The CB Shop in my town charges way too much, and half the time it's not done correctly. It could be just a simple bias alignment, but I'm no tech.
Thanks I like the CRC 2-26 lube ( it foams up ) says leave a thin long lasting film. It says its multipurpose but also indicates electrical connections controls and relays. Its plastic safe thats the main thing correct? Usually I clean with plastic safe contact cleaner then follow up with this stuff also used it on a lot of old tube radios I have restored. Hope its the correct stuff to use. John
John Micronis Unless it specifically says safe for potentiometers I probably wouldn't use it. I am not familiar with that product so it may be fine. I would contact the manufacturer and check though. Another thing is that it leaves a pretty healthy coating doesn't it. The problem is that acts as a dust and dirt magnet. Dirt that may otherwise get in the control and just as easily fall back out can now get trapped inside.
Do you have any tips on the Transceiver alignment on the HR2510? I think the Uniden service manual was a bit limited. If I remember correctly it didn't cover a couple adjustments on the microprocessor board.
How much do you charge for so called 100,000 miles tune up? I have a HR2510 and it is in pretty good shape except for the volume control a little loose. I did not pay much for it. Thanks in advance.
Hey Mike thanks for the previous info. I have a 2510 front end is all apart cleaning LCD. It has a lot of miles on it.Its in good shape except burnt light bulb area( the bulb actually fell of it was so burnt).It works and isnt scratchy but since I have it apart do you think I should lube the pots, selection switch and buttons . I have deoxit fader and d5 as well as CRC 2-26 precision lube ( mineral oil based) what do you think Thanks! John
John Micronis Cleaning controls is fine but NEVER USE OIL BASED products on potentiometers unless they specifically say they are for potentiometers. I have seen controls have the resistive material flake off when oil based products are used.
I purchased this radio recently... it's older and I don't know it's history... I don't know if I have a great radio or not (seems pretty quiet)... Do you do repairs tune ups... etc? If you do can I ship my radio to you? What is your ship too address... thank you
I wish that all CB transceivers used the Tayloe mixer on LSB/USB TX/RX without any offset and AM/FM with an offset to allow for a RF phasing combiner that feeds the AM/FM transmit/receive circuits it might make for a smaller and less complicated transceiver. you know the synthesizer wants say 27.405mhz Tayloe mixer wants 109.620000mhz so the VCO outputs the 109.620000mhz and the Johnson counter will output say 27.405mhz in quadrature and an unused pin on one of the FFs will output the frequency that the synthesizer wants and that can be fed back to the synthesizer freq-in.
my twenty five ten probably needs a thousand mile tune up. I got a beautiful cobra 29 with it when i bought the twent five ten i got the cobra for free and it looks like brand new.
Hi Mike, what kind of LED would you recommend to replace the wheatgrain bulb? I have used some normal 5mm types and found the light pattern to be terrible.
Dear Mikes, I have HR2600. Its have a problem with the transmission frequency. When it is selected in the second span (5khz) the dial if it changes the frequency, I can see it on the display but it has no effect on tx or rx. Do you know what it can be? Greetings from Argentina- 73s
Hello Mike I have a HR-2600 that powers up but thats pretty much it the display is eronius I was wanting to see what it would cost to get it fixed or checked out.Thanks
hi mike can you please let me know what kind of light i need to get from ebay to repair my display light. mine is out. is it 12 volts also. thanks so much
Great video mike! How do I send one off to you for the same work? I have two and one of them has a meter that is always at "s-9" no matter what the meter is being used for i.e. Swr, signal strength etc. Any advice on that one?
JackSoffalot Don't think I have ever seen one do that before. If memory serves correct they have two driver IC's for the display. One is a 12 segment driver used for the bar graph. It is controlled by the microprocessor. Could be a bad driver IC, bad main processor or something else. First thing would be to see if the signal input to the display driver is changing. If it is its probably a bad display driver, if not it could be the main processor. Just add @gmail.com to my youtube user ID to contact me. Could take a bit to reply, been getting bombarded with emails lately and having trouble keeping up.
MikesRadioRepair Thanks for the quick reply mike. When I turn the radio on, the bar graph climbs from 1 bar to about S9, if a signal coming in is stronger, it will register higher for any purpose i.e. Swr, modulation, S meter etc.. so it is working as long as the signal or reading is higher than s-9. I did find quite a few on the internet with this problem. Some owners/techs found cold solder joints, loose connectors etc. this one eludes me lol. I would like to send her in for a recap anyway. So if you can let me know where to send it, phone etc.. please advise. Thanks Richy N2ZD
Thanks, I did notice the meter rises from zero to about S-9 when first started, it takes about 5 seconds for it to rise. So I suspect bad caps somewhere in the meter circuit.
mike...making dot s on connectors is so 1999,you ccould have taken a picture with you cell Phone....anyway….how importent is it for me to chance those capacitors???and do you have an good alternitive for the mrf477?
It would take me longer to turn on the phone and take pictures and then look them up later than it is to just put a few dots on the connectors. In older radios the aluminum electrolytic capacitors have usually long outlived their expected lifespan. If it's a old tube type radio then they flat out just need to be replaced. In solid state radios it's really up to the owner. If they want them replaced while the radio is in for work there is no better time to do it. The odds of them starting to fail sooner than later is pretty good and many times they are already starting to fail and cause problems like distorted audio. You don't really realize how poor audio quality is until you replace them and hear the difference. Just use the MRF497 to replace the 477. RF Parts sells them.
@@mikesradiorepair Mike I was intentionally nitpicking on you.... Any way, but yep you will never notice the difference until you swap them out.... Came across hg semi they sell there own mrf 477 but not in the to 220 I believe(and I Don 't know if they are any good, never bought there before)... Going to look in that mrf 497 from RF parts as well.... Very cool video, keep it up......
Hello friend, I have a President Lincoln Mk1, that when turning it on for the first time it takes some time to show the frequency of work, I explain myself better, the screen turns on but it does not show me the numerals, and after 5 minutes they appear, but that happens only when the radio has several days off, I imagine it can be some capacitor, you could help me to repair this fault. Greetings from Venezuela
I changed my 2510 over to a multi color changing LED and now on TX the receiving station hears a buzzing sound like a model gas airplane engine coming in with my signal. So had to change it back to a light bulb. I don't recommend using a multicolored changing LED on a 2510.
+puka59 puka59 Have never installed one of them in these radios so no first hand experience. Adding a filter capacitor to the LED may help to reduce or eliminate the noise.
My HR 2510 has a farting sound in the A.M. audio if you talk to loud into the mic and the mic gain button doesn't seem to do anything, other then that it seems to work ok. Any ideas?
Jeff Foster Considering how many of these I have repaired because they had shorted caps I would say yes. Remember high quality caps made by reputable companies have a manufacturer's rated lifespan of 15 to 20 years.
Jeff Foster The most important thing in these is to remove the corrosive glue from everything, especially the coils and toroid transformers in the driver/final section. It is known for corroding the wire in half and shorting them out as it becomes conductive.
Thanks for the info and your very well laid out vids. Seems I will be ordering alot of caps in the next couple years. I also have 4 very nice Sansui receivers that will need caps and several old 1929 consoles I'd like to tackle. I've been watching alot of YT vids on the tools I need to make a good bench with, and also more importantly, what type of caps are used in certain circuits and quality.
Jeff Foster Get good quality caps from a known quality manufacturer like Nichicon, Panasonic, Nippon Chemicon, etc. You don't need to get the most expensive capacitors money can buy. The general purpose caps from most quality manufacturers are a large step up from the cheap ones used in most CB radios. In high end stereo equipment it's a different story. If your a true audiophile you can notice the difference in sound reproduction quality. Pay particular attention to capacitors labeled "audio", be sure to use audio capacitors in these key locations when you replace them.
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought this radio brand new when it came out, I still have it, it has been packed up for the last 15+ years....been a good radio! :) ~Jack, VEG
Vintage Electronics Geek
Time to dust it off and fire it up. :)
Thanks for the reminder as it was time to do a little maintenance on my desoldering station (a cheapie Tenma but works well on the occasions I need it to) and stock up on a couple of new tips and solder and rosin filters. I hate those TMP connectors but you actually can make your own if you're careful. I found that the very end of my regular wire connector crimpers is a perfect fit for the braid flange on the TMP; it's always helpful to have some extension cables made up with those connectors to separate assemblies...best example was Peter's TRX Bench recent fix of the Yaesu FT-817. Thanks for sharing Mike!
Dino Papas
Yep, don't forget maintenance on the soldering/ desoldering station. It needs a little love every once in a while to.
Actually had to restock my TMP connectors recently. One of the few companies that stocks them is less than 20 mile away from me.
Great advice as usual, especially with regards to using a shield when soldering/desoldering around thick and dense wire harnesses. I use lots makeshift shields of made of dense, heat resistant scrap metal. Very useful when using hot air or tweezers.
I need to go through my HR-2510 and change out the caps and clean out the glue, though my 2510 is in serious need of an alignment but other than that it still looks and works fantastic. I've noticed the RF power output has steadily declined over the years. Originally, it did around 35 watts on SSB but I don't use it much and have never "tweaked" the output power the way a lot of people tend to do with these radios. Only thing I ever did to it was install a ChipSwitch CPU to give it more useful features and so I could monitor 12-meters, which I must say it does VERY well.
Nice tips Mike. I have found that the original capacitors in these rigs are crap. Lots of problems from no receive no transmit and destroyed cpu boards. There was even a batch of them where they had the Sony bond on the cpu board. Thanks again my friend.
The Radio Shop
Yeah another victim of low quality parts in some places to save a penny making it and charge the consumer more.
Before pulling connectors apart, take a picture !
And if you have to during disassembly, take more pictures !
As the old adage goes, " A picture is worth a Thousand words " !
👍😉
I will be sending mine out soon.for recap. I am waiting on an eq to arrive so you can match up the mic connectors. I can not wait to get her too you and back again!!!
Bought one new when they came out, and it was already converted to 11 meters. Used it in my mobile with a 102 inch quarter wave stainless steel whip and it worked exceptionally well.
I think it did 15 watt's am and 40 sideband.
Had it for a couple years and lost interest in CB so I sold to a guy at work.
That's funny, that's what is on my bench right now! Am in the process of doing a video on its repair.
TheDefpom Luckily this one was in great condition and just needed it's normal couple decade maintenance. Will keep an eye out for your repair video.
🙌💤🎥🎬 good video Mike I've owned several HR 2510. One of my favorite radios sounds like you know Dan in my world associated radio Kansas City Missouri my name is b James
Mike,
Nice video and tips. Happy Holidays.
Awesome video Sir. Thank you for sharing This information with the general public. 73 de KM4DME
Yes, this is true of my (3 - yep, three) Radio Shack desoldering irons; the tips get to the point where there's not enough contact point with the solder and pad. Fortunately, the tips weren't too expensive. It's just that they kept only a few replacement tips in stock at any one time, so I always bought all they had each time I went!
William Squires
The pace tips last a really looooooong time compared to everything else I have ever used. Its just that it gets used so much on my bench. When they switched to the newer types with the stainless steel liner that goes almost all the way to the tip increased my tip life probably ten times or more. I think its the really old time flux in the old tube rigs I work on that really eat away at the inside of the tips.
I agree too. I use a very similar Pace desolder system as well and the current offering of their compatible tips last a reasonably long time. My common rework involves desoldering SAC 305 solder off of very small BGA pads using Pace precision tips. To make matters more challenging, the boards are very densely populated down to 0201 parts as well as having really large ground planes. The only addition heat comes from a convection under-board pre-heater
I do caps and glue on one of these about one a week.. I know these radios inside out. Started working on them in the 80s...
Conductive glue on mine ate through the trace feeding B+ to the finals causing no transmit. Found it when I started checking voltages since it appeared everything was working correctly just no output. I also had to change the mic element in mine. I had 3 or 4 different problems, all unrelated. What a troubleshooting nightmare. I have it fixed now, but I will have to go back in and change the caps sometime.
One of my 2510s had the 'glue' on several wires that held them stable to the circuit board. This stuff turned brown and etched through the copper trace under it, cutting the B+ supply to the finals.
Remember to pick that glue off the resonator, the one I just fixed was faulted because of that glue shorting out the traces underneath it (as well as the super cap being shorted out killing the 5v regulator)
TheDefpom
Luckily the glue had not become corrosive and conductive yet in this radio and was still soft and easy to remove.
Hi Mike enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. I picked up an HR2600 from a hamfest last week it was still in the box and had not been used. Im sure at some point I will recap it but it ( has Rubicons in it so maybe last a Little longer dont know)Its mint but first off took a few seconds for lcd freq numbers to come up then was OK. Radio is working but found the mic element is open. Do you know if there are any mike elements available for this? Looks like 500 ohm dynamic. Im looking for a direct replacement that will drop right in. Also seems odd a mic that was never used would have a bad element.
Keep up the good work!
John
I wouldn't know unless I had the element in front of me to look at. There are sooooo many different cartridges. Use doesn't really make an element go bad, time, vibration and moisture is what kills them. Electrolytic caps actually go bad faster not being used than they do being used occasionally. Every time you turn on a radio the capacitors reform. When not used for long periods of time the aluminium starts to deteriorate and damage the insulating paper separating the plates which leads to shorts and caps with high ESR. Also the oil just dries out over time. They are very likely overdue for replacement.
Informative video.. But I have a question about alignment. I have a HR2510 that has been modified for frequency, and other various mods, When you do the alignment do you align with 28.000 MHz like it states in the service manual or you use another frequency in the 27.000 MHz ?
Alignment procedure in the service manual is the same for a modified or unmodified radio.
I have three of these that need repair. Have been sitting for years. Do you do mail in repairs?
Mike, I have a cobra 200 gtl dx that works on low but no high power. I don't have a way to test the pills. I need it fixed. Do you work on that type of radio, and if so, how much do you charge? Your videos are good, but I don't have all the proper equipment to test repair and align. The CB Shop in my town charges way too much, and half the time it's not done correctly. It could be just a simple bias alignment, but I'm no tech.
Thanks I like the CRC 2-26 lube ( it foams up ) says leave a thin long lasting film. It says its multipurpose but also indicates electrical connections controls and relays. Its plastic safe thats the main thing correct? Usually I clean with plastic safe contact cleaner then follow up with this stuff also used it on a lot of old tube radios I have restored. Hope its the correct stuff to use. John
John Micronis
Unless it specifically says safe for potentiometers I probably wouldn't use it. I am not familiar with that product so it may be fine. I would contact the manufacturer and check though. Another thing is that it leaves a pretty healthy coating doesn't it. The problem is that acts as a dust and dirt magnet. Dirt that may otherwise get in the control and just as easily fall back out can now get trapped inside.
Do you have any tips on the Transceiver alignment on the HR2510? I think the Uniden service manual was a bit limited. If I remember correctly it didn't cover a couple adjustments on the microprocessor board.
How much do you charge for so called 100,000 miles tune up? I have a HR2510 and it is in pretty good shape except for the volume control a little loose. I did not pay much for it. Thanks in advance.
Very usefull, thanks for sharing
Hey Mike thanks for the previous info. I have a 2510 front end is all apart cleaning LCD. It has a lot of miles on it.Its in good shape except burnt light bulb area( the bulb actually fell of it was so burnt).It works and isnt scratchy but since I have it apart do you think I should lube the pots, selection switch and buttons . I have deoxit fader and d5 as well as CRC 2-26 precision lube ( mineral oil based) what do you think Thanks!
John
John Micronis
Cleaning controls is fine but NEVER USE OIL BASED products on potentiometers unless they specifically say they are for potentiometers. I have seen controls have the resistive material flake off when oil based products are used.
I purchased this radio recently... it's older and I don't know it's history... I don't know if I have a great radio or not (seems pretty quiet)... Do you do repairs tune ups... etc? If you do can I ship my radio to you? What is your ship too address... thank you
I wish that all CB transceivers used the Tayloe mixer on LSB/USB TX/RX without any offset and AM/FM with an offset to allow for a RF phasing combiner that feeds the AM/FM transmit/receive circuits it might make for a smaller and less complicated transceiver. you know the synthesizer wants say 27.405mhz Tayloe mixer wants 109.620000mhz so the VCO outputs the 109.620000mhz and the Johnson counter will output say 27.405mhz in quadrature and an unused pin on one of the FFs will output the frequency that the synthesizer wants and that can be fed back to the synthesizer freq-in.
my twenty five ten probably needs a thousand mile tune up. I got a beautiful cobra 29 with it when i bought the twent five ten i got the cobra for free and it looks like brand new.
Hi Mike, what kind of LED would you recommend to replace the wheatgrain bulb? I have used some normal 5mm types and found the light pattern to be terrible.
keiron871
Use either 120º viewing angle LED's or simply file the end of a normal LED flat making your own wide angle difused lens.
Dear Mikes, I have HR2600. Its have a problem with the transmission frequency. When it is selected in the second span (5khz) the dial if it changes the frequency, I can see it on the display but it has no effect on tx or rx. Do you know what it can be? Greetings from Argentina-
73s
Hello Mike I have a HR-2600 that powers up but thats pretty much it the display is eronius I was wanting to see what it would cost to get it fixed or checked out.Thanks
Awesome video Mike. Would like to see you remove some caps.
I have two of them. they are single side band. they are relist-ac and they were bought from radio shack
merry Christmas
Hi, how the last frequency is stored in memory? does it have a battery?
Mike i have hr2510 that need help been storage a while wonder if you fix it for me
hi mike can you please let me know what kind of light i need to get from ebay to repair my display light. mine is out. is it 12 volts also. thanks so much
Do you still do repairs? I have the same radio. Thanks.
I got one . the problem with mine. the power cord needs to be solder to the board. my nerves won't let me do anything any more.
Great video mike! How do I send one off to you for the same work? I have two and one of them has a meter that is always at "s-9" no matter what the meter is being used for i.e. Swr, signal strength etc. Any advice on that one?
JackSoffalot
Don't think I have ever seen one do that before. If memory serves correct they have two driver IC's for the display. One is a 12 segment driver used for the bar graph. It is controlled by the microprocessor. Could be a bad driver IC, bad main processor or something else. First thing would be to see if the signal input to the display driver is changing. If it is its probably a bad display driver, if not it could be the main processor. Just add @gmail.com to my youtube user ID to contact me. Could take a bit to reply, been getting bombarded with emails lately and having trouble keeping up.
MikesRadioRepair
Thanks for the quick reply mike. When I turn the radio on, the bar graph climbs from 1 bar to about S9, if a signal coming in is stronger, it will register higher for any purpose i.e. Swr, modulation, S meter etc.. so it is working as long as the signal or reading is higher than s-9.
I did find quite a few on the internet with this problem. Some owners/techs found cold solder joints, loose connectors etc. this one eludes me lol. I would like to send her in for a recap anyway.
So if you can let me know where to send it, phone etc.. please advise. Thanks Richy N2ZD
JackSoffalot
Just add @gmail.com to my youtube user ID to email me.
There are a couple of capacitors on the cpu board that can cause this issue.
Thanks, I did notice the meter rises from zero to about S-9 when first started, it takes about 5 seconds for it to rise. So I suspect bad caps somewhere in the meter circuit.
mike...making dot s on connectors is so 1999,you ccould have taken a picture with you cell Phone....anyway….how importent is it for me to chance those capacitors???and do you have an good alternitive for the mrf477?
It would take me longer to turn on the phone and take pictures and then look them up later than it is to just put a few dots on the connectors.
In older radios the aluminum electrolytic capacitors have usually long outlived their expected lifespan. If it's a old tube type radio then they flat out just need to be replaced. In solid state radios it's really up to the owner. If they want them replaced while the radio is in for work there is no better time to do it. The odds of them starting to fail sooner than later is pretty good and many times they are already starting to fail and cause problems like distorted audio. You don't really realize how poor audio quality is until you replace them and hear the difference.
Just use the MRF497 to replace the 477. RF Parts sells them.
@@mikesradiorepair Mike I was intentionally nitpicking on you.... Any way, but yep you will never notice the difference until you swap them out.... Came across hg semi they sell there own mrf 477 but not in the to 220 I believe(and I Don 't know if they are any good, never bought there before)... Going to look in that mrf 497 from RF parts as well....
Very cool video, keep it up......
Hey mike, I am recapping an old PL. The pll don't hold its memory, Is there a cap responsible for?
Hello friend, I have a President Lincoln Mk1, that when turning it on for the first time it takes some time to show the frequency of work, I explain myself better, the screen turns on but it does not show me the numerals, and after 5 minutes they appear, but that happens only when the radio has several days off, I imagine it can be some capacitor, you could help me to repair this fault. Greetings from Venezuela
Where do i get a replacement LED bulb please ?
I changed my 2510 over to a multi color changing LED and now on TX the receiving station hears a buzzing sound like a model gas airplane engine coming in with my signal. So had to change it back to a light bulb. I don't recommend using a multicolored changing LED on a 2510.
+puka59 puka59
Have never installed one of them in these radios so no first hand experience. Adding a filter capacitor to the LED may help to reduce or eliminate the noise.
My HR 2510 has a farting sound in the A.M. audio if you talk to loud into the mic and the mic gain button doesn't seem to do anything, other then that it seems to work ok. Any ideas?
mike imm looking for a 2510 or 2600 parts radio for sale?
Mike, could you service my 2510?
y have a lincoln here, quite a good radio!
Mike do you have a website?
james craghead
Sorry no I don't. Don't have time to maintain one.
Does this HR 2510 have the Chip Switch Mod.?
Soylent Green
No, original processor is still in it.
How do I convert it to 11mrts
www.radiomods.co.nz/hrfreq1.html
do you really think cap replacement on these is ness after what.....30 years?
Jeff Foster
Considering how many of these I have repaired because they had shorted caps I would say yes. Remember high quality caps made by reputable companies have a manufacturer's rated lifespan of 15 to 20 years.
fair enough...I have 2 of them and will consider tackling them. One is almost always on in the background, so the led for the bulb is a must as well.
Jeff Foster
The most important thing in these is to remove the corrosive glue from everything, especially the coils and toroid transformers in the driver/final section. It is known for corroding the wire in half and shorting them out as it becomes conductive.
Thanks for the info and your very well laid out vids. Seems I will be ordering alot of caps in the next couple years. I also have 4 very nice Sansui receivers that will need caps and several old 1929 consoles I'd like to tackle. I've been watching alot of YT vids on the tools I need to make a good bench with, and also more importantly, what type of caps are used in certain circuits and quality.
Jeff Foster
Get good quality caps from a known quality manufacturer like Nichicon, Panasonic, Nippon Chemicon, etc. You don't need to get the most expensive capacitors money can buy. The general purpose caps from most quality manufacturers are a large step up from the cheap ones used in most CB radios. In high end stereo equipment it's a different story. If your a true audiophile you can notice the difference in sound reproduction quality. Pay particular attention to capacitors labeled "audio", be sure to use audio capacitors in these key locations when you replace them.
2510 there realy good radios an on side band
I have one that I would love to send to you, Mike. Email sent.
Mike I have one I would love to send in to have it fixed. What is your email??
73sss
Bobby Foster Just add @gmail.com to my youtube user ID.