Run wires as you build the wall. I used this in my basement. I had inside and outside corners in my wall and I wired 20 amp circuits. No way I was running the Romex after I built the wall. I laid out the Romex along the wall before I built the wall. I then installed the first course, laid the Romex in the channel and fed it through my cut outs for the outlet boxes. Then I laid the second row and put network cables in this row. Then I finished out the rest of the courses. All very easy, just not the "normal" sequence.
I can't express how happy I am you're reviewing this. I'm in Haiti. You probably heard of us. Earthquakes and Hurricanes? So I'm interested in alternatives homes to the traditional concrete. The issue? No contractor in the country is used to building like this and although we do have container buildings, they were installed by foreign NGOs who could fly in contractors. So I'm doing crazy research and intend on hiring professionals at each stage and instruct them on what I want. There's no huge temperature variations in Haiti (Think of always summer) so spray foam insulation is unheard of. I needed something to avoid my container to turn into little oven or cost a leg to keep cold. That looks like something I can do myself and the cost is reasonable.
There's a video of a man that built a container house I think in Haiti or Jamaica a few years ago. I think it was stacked. Try to search for it but he had definitely built it because of hurricane protection.
Using a high cube container gives you more height so ceiling insulation is not as much of a problem. Also putting a roof above the container of any type that creates an air space above will also help. I'd also say that if you're using this stuff, ABSOLUTELY get a ONE TRIP container. You DO NOT want to have to screw around with a beat up rusty dented container.
Thanks for the information I plan on having a 40 ft delivered here soon to my land I am going to fit it out for a temporary cabin while I am building my cabin to live in permanently Good information thanks again
@@ContainingLuxury My biggest concern would be that adhesive failing under load, especially if you're going to be hanging all sorts of different things from those walls.
Love the video and the comparison to other ways of doing this. As a newbie I’ve been leaning towards this system and your video was super helpful. Definitely mute that annoying watch from singing every 3 seconds from now on though 😂😂
you are the man!! I am building my first container home over in New Zealand this Summer and this has answered a lot of my questions. I am a builder so will be framing it myself and getting someone in to spray! Your R ratings are crazy compared to ours lol.....here we only need R3.2 to meet code!! I will be watching all your videos over the next few weeks! Thanks again mate your a champ!! Damo
One nice thing about imsofast os they contract with styrofoam plants across America so when you order they send the order to the closest plant to your location. That saves on shipping.
yeah looks like you will end up taking up some inches when getting ready to do the finished walling on the inside. Looking forward to seeing the future videos.
I’m also a DIYer. The correct answer is certified and tested Closed Cell Sprayed foam insulation. The reason why that’s the correct answer is because of temperature gradients causing the danger known as condensation on your metal walls specifically between the metal and the internal wall… where you erect your framing and insulation panels. Cause metal and water doesn’t mix… cause you know… rust. The solution is spraying closed cell spray foam on the metal to stop condensation in its tracks. Then the framing of the floor and walls is done within the foam envelope you sprayed. Condensation eliminated. Only standard problems remain that you have left to deal with would be stuff like air ventilation which is easy to move fresh air around your living space. An alternative to sprayed foam insulation that is slightly less good but equally flame retardant and water proof and air tight would be Sprayed cork insulation. Cork is the stuff from wine bottles. Cork is green and sustainable to harvest.
I would say mold growing behind the foam panels. I have a 20ft container converted to a work shop and mold is something I have to battle once a year or so.
Mold is always a potential issue within any structure, we recommend keeping an eye on humidity levels and our mini split AC units actually have a "dry" setting to help mitigate this risk. Great point!
Hearing that this product provides r13 and r9 for walls and ceiling I think you said... I’m wondering what you’d say to using them on a project in Thunder Bay Canada where it gets to -20°c (that’s -4°) and below every single winter. I love the idea but I think that cold, I’ll just spray foam.
Would it work better to use the InSoFast on the walls and frame the ceiling? That would allow you to run your wiring overhead and only using the raceways to go down the wall. It would also allow you to get a higher R value on the ceiling. And what are the plans for insulating the floor?
i cant get insofast in New Zealand so i just used polystyrene. it is better to run through the roof and down the walls in the gaps behind the flat sheets. everything needs to be sealed for condensation of course.
That’s what I was thinking for next time, would have been a lot easier for all my electrical and Ac lines then I could have gotten that higher r value as well!
@@askme4418 The Insofast has conduits built in it to allow you to run your electical wires through it. You may even be able to run some pex pipe through it for your plumbing. It was these conduits, channels, or pathways that I was refering to as raceways. It wasn't exactly the correct term, so I understand your confusion.
Do you need worry much about condensation with Insofast? I am up in Michigan and worried about condensation from the high & low temps. Thanks for the info!
Thermal bridging is a really important pro in favor of insofast. With a framed and sprayfoamed wall all of your studs will transmit heat, effectively lowering the r value of your wall. Insofast has no bridging so while the r value is not huge, it may perform better than higher r value walls with studs.
For some reason I'm not sold on this as I really doubt there aren't any air pockets left = which will give space for hidden condensation. Slight imperfection in the steel and you have air between teh insulation and the steel wall. What is your experience ?
hello sir! it would be nice to hear your opinion on what kind of insulation you recommend for places that are very cold in the winter and hot in the summer...thanks :)
InsoFast is R-4.6 per inch and doesn’t degrade over time. Closed cell is up to R-7 per inch and does degrade, and you still have to frame. Do the cost benefit for your project and decide. For me, it’s InsoFast interior and exterior insulation on containers. This mitigates thermal bridging, condensation and minimizes sound pollution.
A pity you didn’t show the electrical race-way’s you mentioned. Thinking of using Inso-fast with Sip’s on top to get a strong wall with the necesarry R value for my container.
Would loooooved to see more of the "work" with voice over instead of standing monologue. Missing the teaching moments. I know that involves more onsite filming and more effort editing. but other then that I love the in-depth breakdowns! I would TOTALLY HIRE YALL TO BUILD MY PLACE!
If you eliminate all the air space, there's no place for moisture to be. Just don't insulate on a day where it's so humid you have sweat on the inside of the container.
Hey! I am thinking about hemp wool insulation instead of foam spray and other types. Because it says that hemp is protected against moulds and bacteria, does not contain harmful substances and so on, so on. What is Your opinion about that?
First thing I said was , what happened to the beginning? lol. Great video , cool product but I’m guessing the biggest disappointment is R value. I would rather frame and spray instead of add other insulation on top or do outside as well. 🤷🏻♀️😐
Hello - Love your thoughts on this and would agree with it being more useful for a 40' build. Have you thought of running a RESCheck for UA Value with using continuous insulation like this? Great selling point and will allow you to use less R value when you have continuous insulation withouth thermal bridges of frames than insulation.
Really happy I found your channel. I am in the process of making a Retail clothing store out of 3 40ft containers. Would this Insulation work well with my idea?
Here's a Con you did not mention w/Insofast. In the air gap space between metal skin and insulation (in humid climates and particularly in Winter) condensate water will form on inside walls and ceiling. The same water will run down walls to the floor. To avoid this, suppose you could run a dehumidifier.
Code min of continuous (thermally broken) insulation levels vs between the bridges. Maybe it'll pass somewhere. But applied exterior with commercial taper and membrane on top and an eifs, this could fulfill someone's aesthetic
Maybe put the foam insulation in before the windows are installed. Can just cut out the windows with the foam attached. Dont have to cut down all those panels before installing then.
I'm a lead builder of container houses. We have been using insofast for a few months. Do you have any feedback on the longevity of the PL over time and high outside temps? We build in Las Vegas
Jami De Sena good question, no clue but they have all the engineering specs showing the stuff grabs like no other... with that being said I still have my doubts
Ty Hunter well essentially it should be super tight, we never punctured the container except for the electrical lines and the ac lines which went through 2 wholes that were spray foamed and sleeved. I wasn’t going to go through the extra work since I am just trying to get her finished! But that would be a cool test to do one day!
Great system but what exactly is the space left internally after installed? Most container internal widths seem to be 7' 8.5" (2350mm) so taking away 2" either side leaves 7' 4.5" but how much does the 3/8" adhesive squeeze down to?
If I were building a bigger container setup such as a few 40 footers attached together, would you recommend this system? There will be numerous cutouts and need for structural supports and this would be in northern GA.
In a cold or damp environment wouldn't spray foam need to be the default method? I was looking into diy spray foam- choked on the cost! Rethinking if I should even try this project. Is it possible to find a hybrid approach to be less expensive with a higher R value for snow country? Thinner spray foam layer, adding foam board over? Perhaps with 2x6 studs?
Stu Bryant so the other option is to use this system M which is a great seal, and solid base level and add in one more 1” rigid foam board before your wall panel, that would add about R5.5 to each of the roof and ceiling and be sufficient for most climate zones, keep in mind if you use ship lap and do something to the outside all of those products have natural insulating factors as well :) hope that helps! Closed cell Spray foam kits are super expensive to get the thickness you need or want, but spray foam companies are sometimes cheaper than the kits so check that out too... this is the best alternative solution I can think of from that though!
It looks like they could improve by making specific 20ft and 40ft precut insulation kits. Would avoid a lot of time by the DIYer rather than the manufacturer which should be the whole purpose of Insofast.
Damn, I was excited for this product too, until I looked at my R-Value building codes for Washington State. InSoFast is a no go from what I understand. Let me know if I'm wrong or if there's a way to still use it and meet the R-value requirements as I want to build a shipping container house still.
Hi! Great. I've been researching about Insofast. I like your video, very helpful. Is there ny possibility of talking to you about my project? I have a Florida room that needs insulation, and I don't want to spend too much money. Thanks, Jar
We just ordered a couple of 20’ one trip containers to use as storage rooms. Not sure when they arrive. We live in Northern California where it can get pretty hot in the summer months. What would you recommend for a thin but effective insulation for storage use?
Since you are playing with Styrofoam, just use ICF blocks to build the house - about the same money you spend on container + insofast, but much better insulation and hurricane proof !
No. Just NO. You can't build a same size building for the same cost as ICF. And you can easily make a container hurricane RESISTANT, (no such thing as hurricane proof when it comes to houses) by pouring footers and bolting it to the footers. Don't get me wrong, ICF is great, it's just a different application.
way to go Bro!! I just bought a home in Arlington Tx. and am doing research on storm proofing my pad. Its about time us brothers show you alll white folks how to protect you home. I love it!!
@containing Luxury Long time subscriber, love your videos. Do you have any suggestions for exterior insulation for a container home trailer? I really like the idea of keeping the interior walls as metal (using magnets to hang pictures and not losing living space). The product your reviewing looks like it could fit the bill, but would maybe need a good exterior siding? Thanks in advance and keep up the good work!
Mott Hubris well thank you for supporting us! The beauty with insulating the exterior is you have a lot more options! You can actually wood frame a structure and fiberglass bath insulation if you want, but a lot of guys down here just frame the exterior with metal 3-5/8” studs and open cell spray foam then durrock (cement board) then stucco on the container homes that we can’t have look like container homes for local design restrictions... then you can keep the inside completely raw if you wanted!
@@ContainingLuxury thank you for your wonderful suggestions! Saving this for when I attempt my build! Keep up the amazing work and stay safe in these interesting times.
Also Higher R value means less heating an cooling cost over all. What you really mean to say is you didn’t wanna do the labor hours to benefit your customer
Can you frame a shipping container without making holes into the steel? Would it be possible to make metal frame that fit snug into every corner end to end so it doesn't shift about?
Yes. I'm building wood shelves inside a container. Shelves are attached to the strap rings in the container using J-Bolts to the 2x4 studs. No welding or drilling. I'll see if I can post some video of the way I did it.
Maria Clarissa Ramirez where do you live! Antarctica :). You may need to go closed cell on the inside then and just bike the bullet on expense.. and then add some exterior insulation as well, you can for sure get to those numbers
With today's technology and advancements in insulation, why is Insofast so stone age on the r values? They really should be looking at a better r value for owners in northern and southern climates. Very few places can settle for the r values u stated.
I am part of a project that uses stainless steel spray foam insulated containers made for refrigeration that cost $5k new. Seems to a better option than your used container plus all this material and labor.
$1400 for spray foam... uhh no, he was giving you friend price because its 2k setup price in most of the country. I got $6,500 to $12,200 quotes from sprayfoam places for a 40' highcube here in OK.
Why not put the insulation on the outside and then do conduit electrical and plumbing on the inside and under the container? I’ve always wondered why people frame a container since that kind of removes the advantage of the prebuilt box.
@@toddtempleton9321 sure. I assumed it would be more than just insofast but I just think adding that thickness on the outside makes more sense. I also think removing the inside framing element has to save time and money. Maybe just me
Would it make more sense to use this on the outside (if the system allows you to do so) - for instance, if you were going to put on a exterior siding material.
Run wires as you build the wall. I used this in my basement. I had inside and outside corners in my wall and I wired 20 amp circuits. No way I was running the Romex after I built the wall. I laid out the Romex along the wall before I built the wall. I then installed the first course, laid the Romex in the channel and fed it through my cut outs for the outlet boxes. Then I laid the second row and put network cables in this row. Then I finished out the rest of the courses. All very easy, just not the "normal" sequence.
Or run conduit as you build the wall
You were super nice and polite as to provide the cons in between. Thank you for this review. It helps a lot.
I can't express how happy I am you're reviewing this. I'm in Haiti. You probably heard of us. Earthquakes and Hurricanes? So I'm interested in alternatives homes to the traditional concrete. The issue? No contractor in the country is used to building like this and although we do have container buildings, they were installed by foreign NGOs who could fly in contractors.
So I'm doing crazy research and intend on hiring professionals at each stage and instruct them on what I want. There's no huge temperature variations in Haiti (Think of always summer) so spray foam insulation is unheard of. I needed something to avoid my container to turn into little oven or cost a leg to keep cold.
That looks like something I can do myself and the cost is reasonable.
Floreine-Jemima Joseph make sure to check out our install video on the channel, so you can determine if it’s the way you want to go!
There's a video of a man that built a container house I think in Haiti or Jamaica a few years ago. I think it was stacked. Try to search for it but he had definitely built it because of hurricane protection.
Using a high cube container gives you more height so ceiling insulation is not as much of a problem. Also putting a roof above the container of any type that creates an air space above will also help.
I'd also say that if you're using this stuff, ABSOLUTELY get a ONE TRIP container. You DO NOT want to have to screw around with a beat up rusty dented container.
Looks like I'm definitely going for Spray Foam insulation. Thanks for exploring this and sharing. Appreciate you brother
That helps a lot on what insulation I’m going to use on my shipping container house
Thanks for the information I plan on having a 40 ft delivered here soon to my land I am going to fit it out for a temporary cabin while I am building my cabin to live in permanently Good information thanks again
Appreciate how objective your videos are thanks.
Mario Escareno try to keep it real! Thanks for watching :)
@@ContainingLuxury My biggest concern would be that adhesive failing under load, especially if you're going to be hanging all sorts of different things from those walls.
Would this product work well for van/ camper build?
Glad i found this video, A friend of mine could'nt remember the name of this product ,Thanks bro.
Looking good. Be safe.
It’s looking good keep up the great work
Love the video and the comparison to other ways of doing this. As a newbie I’ve been leaning towards this system and your video was super helpful. Definitely mute that annoying watch from singing every 3 seconds from now on though 😂😂
Fabulous presentation. Some comments this time are really frustrating. It's like they haven't listened to a word you said. You're a patient man.
Great comparison.
you are the man!! I am building my first container home over in New Zealand this Summer and this has answered a lot of my questions. I am a builder so will be framing it myself and getting someone in to spray! Your R ratings are crazy compared to ours lol.....here we only need R3.2 to meet code!!
I will be watching all your videos over the next few weeks! Thanks again mate your a champ!!
Damo
One nice thing about imsofast os they contract with styrofoam plants across America so when you order they send the order to the closest plant to your location. That saves on shipping.
yeah looks like you will end up taking up some inches when getting ready to do the finished walling on the inside. Looking forward to seeing the future videos.
Wonderful video for sure !!!!
Well that was interesting.
Wish someone would a vid for foundation and insulation in the south where freeze happens once in a hundred years.
I’m also a DIYer.
The correct answer is certified and tested Closed Cell Sprayed foam insulation.
The reason why that’s the correct answer is because of temperature gradients causing the danger known as condensation on your metal walls specifically between the metal and the internal wall… where you erect your framing and insulation panels.
Cause metal and water doesn’t mix… cause you know… rust.
The solution is spraying closed cell spray foam on the metal to stop condensation in its tracks.
Then the framing of the floor and walls is done within the foam envelope you sprayed.
Condensation eliminated. Only standard problems remain that you have left to deal with would be stuff like air ventilation which is easy to move fresh air around your living space.
An alternative to sprayed foam insulation that is slightly less good but equally flame retardant and water proof and air tight would be Sprayed cork insulation. Cork is the stuff from wine bottles. Cork is green and sustainable to harvest.
I would say mold growing behind the foam panels.
I have a 20ft container converted to a work shop and mold is something I have to battle once a year or so.
Mold is always a potential issue within any structure, we recommend keeping an eye on humidity levels and our mini split AC units actually have a "dry" setting to help mitigate this risk. Great point!
Hearing that this product provides r13 and r9 for walls and ceiling I think you said... I’m wondering what you’d say to using them on a project in Thunder Bay Canada where it gets to -20°c (that’s -4°) and below every single winter. I love the idea but I think that cold, I’ll just spray foam.
Would it work better to use the InSoFast on the walls and frame the ceiling? That would allow you to run your wiring overhead and only using the raceways to go down the wall. It would also allow you to get a higher R value on the ceiling. And what are the plans for insulating the floor?
i cant get insofast in New Zealand so i just used polystyrene. it is better to run through the roof and down the walls in the gaps behind the flat sheets. everything needs to be sealed for condensation of course.
That’s what I was thinking for next time, would have been a lot easier for all my electrical and Ac lines then I could have gotten that higher r value as well!
@@ContainingLuxury We can only learn by doing. Or plan ahead and ask ourselves, how can I do it better!.
Hi, newbie here. Can you tell me what you mean by raceway?
@@askme4418 The Insofast has conduits built in it to allow you to run your electical wires through it. You may even be able to run some pex pipe through it for your plumbing. It was these conduits, channels, or pathways that I was refering to as raceways. It wasn't exactly the correct term, so I understand your confusion.
I ddnt understand anything you said..i was focused on your cuteness 😊😉
Thank you!!!
keep it going
Is this video for contractors or for home DIYers. I love the pros and cons but I'd say most people watching are all home DIYers. Stay safe brother.
Travis Travis tried to make it for both! Thanks :)
Do you need worry much about condensation with Insofast? I am up in Michigan and worried about condensation from the high & low temps. Thanks for the info!
Thermal bridging is a really important pro in favor of insofast. With a framed and sprayfoamed wall all of your studs will transmit heat, effectively lowering the r value of your wall. Insofast has no bridging so while the r value is not huge, it may perform better than higher r value walls with studs.
is it mold resistant? bc moisture builds bwt container. thanks
How does it stand to condensation that seems to be a nice flaw with shipping containers
For some reason I'm not sold on this as I really doubt there aren't any air pockets left = which will give space for hidden condensation. Slight imperfection in the steel and you have air between teh insulation and the steel wall.
What is your experience ?
Is this stuff very flammable?
hello sir! it would be nice to hear your opinion on what kind of insulation you recommend for places that are very cold in the winter and hot in the summer...thanks :)
Falk Mattern I honestly don’t think you can beat closed cell spray foam... best r value for least amount of thickness :)
Containing Luxury thx! Appreciate the channel
EPS is R-3.8 vs R-7 for closed-cell spray foam.
InsoFast is R-4.6 per inch and doesn’t degrade over time. Closed cell is up to R-7 per inch and does degrade, and you still have to frame. Do the cost benefit for your project and decide. For me, it’s InsoFast interior and exterior insulation on containers. This mitigates thermal bridging, condensation and minimizes sound pollution.
A pity you didn’t show the electrical race-way’s you mentioned. Thinking of using Inso-fast with Sip’s on top to get a strong wall with the necesarry R value for my container.
Steven Loyens just wait, we will on the electrical video coming up!
“Framing” & insulation 🤔 can I wall mount anything to this “framing” or is it more like attempting to wall mount on Plaster?
Would loooooved to see more of the "work" with voice over instead of standing monologue. Missing the teaching moments. I know that involves more onsite filming and more effort editing. but other then that I love the in-depth breakdowns! I would TOTALLY HIRE YALL TO BUILD MY PLACE!
How can someone Insulate a container and keep moisture forming between the foam and metal leading to mold that you cant get to.
If you eliminate all the air space, there's no place for moisture to be. Just don't insulate on a day where it's so humid you have sweat on the inside of the container.
Hey! I am thinking about hemp wool insulation instead of foam spray and other types. Because it says that hemp is protected against moulds and bacteria, does not contain harmful substances and so on, so on. What is Your opinion about that?
Thank you!! Seems the topic of condensation never gets answered. this very well could be the best option I have come across. thanks for sharing!!!
What if you just used this on the roof and exterior? 🤔
I like the container wall look inside.
For exterior, ZipR makes more sense. Higher R value and combines insulation and vapor barrier in the same step.
First thing I said was , what happened to the beginning? lol. Great video , cool product but I’m guessing the biggest disappointment is R value. I would rather frame and spray instead of add other insulation on top or do outside as well. 🤷🏻♀️😐
Hello - Love your thoughts on this and would agree with it being more useful for a 40' build. Have you thought of running a RESCheck for UA Value with using continuous insulation like this? Great selling point and will allow you to use less R value when you have continuous insulation withouth thermal bridges of frames than insulation.
Really happy I found your channel. I am in the process of making a Retail clothing store out of 3 40ft containers. Would this Insulation work well with my idea?
You should have mentioned that this needs to be covered with a fire barrier like gwb, FRP panelling or painted with intumescent paint by code.
What if you do Romex as you install the panels
How well would this work in Wisconsin with all 4 seasons?
have you used Prodex on a shipping container or any other build to give pros and cons between Prodex and in-so-fast. thanks
Here's a Con you did not mention w/Insofast. In the air gap space between metal skin and insulation (in humid climates and particularly in Winter) condensate water will form on inside walls and ceiling. The same water will run down walls to the floor. To avoid this, suppose you could run a dehumidifier.
Code min of continuous (thermally broken) insulation levels vs between the bridges. Maybe it'll pass somewhere.
But applied exterior with commercial taper and membrane on top and an eifs, this could fulfill someone's aesthetic
Maybe put the foam insulation in before the windows are installed.
Can just cut out the windows with the foam attached.
Dont have to cut down all those panels before installing then.
I'm a lead builder of container houses. We have been using insofast for a few months. Do you have any feedback on the longevity of the PL over time and high outside temps? We build in Las Vegas
Jami De Sena good question, no clue but they have all the engineering specs showing the stuff grabs like no other... with that being said I still have my doubts
Удачи тебе, привет из Украины=)
Hey! Great info here thanks! Are you planning on getting air change test? 'Blower door' test? I'm curious on how air tight the system can be.
Ty Hunter well essentially it should be super tight, we never punctured the container except for the electrical lines and the ac lines which went through 2 wholes that were spray foamed and sleeved. I wasn’t going to go through the extra work since I am just trying to get her finished! But that would be a cool test to do one day!
Great system but what exactly is the space left internally after installed? Most container internal widths seem to be 7' 8.5" (2350mm) so taking away 2" either side leaves 7' 4.5" but how much does the 3/8" adhesive squeeze down to?
If I were building a bigger container setup such as a few 40 footers attached together, would you recommend this system? There will be numerous cutouts and need for structural supports and this would be in northern GA.
So the weight of the drywall is solely dependent on the adhesive holding the Insofast to the deck?
Could you use them on the exterior?
Is this good for a 40ft container if I want to do a cafe from it
This was 4 years ago. Just looked at their website. The stuff costs now more than the container, if you have a 40'. At least 5,000.
How much did u need to complete the container and how big was the container?
Is insofast better than spray foam when it comes to condensation?
50_Cal nope spray foam wins that one for sure
Moisture issues between foam and container sides?
Me gusta MUCHO. PERO HABLAS TAMBIÉN MUCHO....👍👍👍
In a cold or damp environment wouldn't spray foam need to be the default method? I was looking into diy spray foam- choked on the cost! Rethinking if I should even try this project. Is it possible to find a hybrid approach to be less expensive with a higher R value for snow country? Thinner spray foam layer, adding foam board over? Perhaps with 2x6 studs?
Stu Bryant so the other option is to use this system M which is a great seal, and solid base level and add in one more 1” rigid foam board before your wall panel, that would add about R5.5 to each of the roof and ceiling and be sufficient for most climate zones, keep in mind if you use ship lap and do something to the outside all of those products have natural insulating factors as well :) hope that helps! Closed cell Spray foam kits are super expensive to get the thickness you need or want, but spray foam companies are sometimes cheaper than the kits so check that out too... this is the best alternative solution I can think of from that though!
you just became in so fast public enemy # 1 ....😲🤣🤣🤣
With pets how does acoustic (sound proofing) rubber work with foam? Pets can be loud. I saw foam wrap on outside for underground. Still curious...
How do you move a finished single container house? People tell me it has to be empty to move my container. Any ideas?
It looks like they could improve by making specific 20ft and 40ft precut insulation kits.
Would avoid a lot of time by the DIYer rather than the manufacturer which should be the whole purpose of Insofast.
K H for sure! That was my thinking
Damn, I was excited for this product too, until I looked at my R-Value building codes for Washington State. InSoFast is a no go from what I understand. Let me know if I'm wrong or if there's a way to still use it and meet the R-value requirements as I want to build a shipping container house still.
Hi! Great. I've been researching about Insofast. I like your video, very helpful. Is there ny possibility of talking to you about my project? I have a Florida room that needs insulation, and I don't want to spend too much money. Thanks, Jar
We just ordered a couple of 20’ one trip containers to use as storage rooms. Not sure when they arrive. We live in Northern California where it can get pretty hot in the summer months. What would you recommend for a thin but effective insulation for storage use?
Since you are playing with Styrofoam, just use ICF blocks to build the house - about the same money you spend on container + insofast, but much better insulation and hurricane proof !
No. Just NO. You can't build a same size building for the same cost as ICF. And you can easily make a container hurricane RESISTANT, (no such thing as hurricane proof when it comes to houses) by pouring footers and bolting it to the footers.
Don't get me wrong, ICF is great, it's just a different application.
Me after watching this video:
"Okay In So Fast.....it's a no from me"
And very expensive
way to go Bro!! I just bought a home in Arlington Tx. and am doing research on storm proofing my pad. Its about time us brothers show you alll white folks how to protect you home. I love it!!
@containing Luxury Long time subscriber, love your videos. Do you have any suggestions for exterior insulation for a container home trailer? I really like the idea of keeping the interior walls as metal (using magnets to hang pictures and not losing living space). The product your reviewing looks like it could fit the bill, but would maybe need a good exterior siding? Thanks in advance and keep up the good work!
Mott Hubris well thank you for supporting us! The beauty with insulating the exterior is you have a lot more options! You can actually wood frame a structure and fiberglass bath insulation if you want, but a lot of guys down here just frame the exterior with metal 3-5/8” studs and open cell spray foam then durrock (cement board) then stucco on the container homes that we can’t have look like container homes for local design restrictions... then you can keep the inside completely raw if you wanted!
But you can do any siding you want over that system it doesn’t have to be stucco
@@ContainingLuxury thank you for your wonderful suggestions! Saving this for when I attempt my build! Keep up the amazing work and stay safe in these interesting times.
How can I link you up
Just turn your damn phone off before you start shooting a video. If you forget, edit it out.
I used these at work last week. Why did they space the vertical "studs" at 22" but the ceiling studs are 16 on center? It makes no sense
Price and system make more sense if you don't have to panel or drywall over it.
Also Higher R value means less heating an cooling cost over all. What you really mean to say is you didn’t wanna do the labor hours to benefit your customer
Thanks again! #MyFavChannel
When is the next one
Tray P a couple days!
I called to talk to them and the lady on the phone was extremely RUDE ... decided to frame and spray foam
Can you frame a shipping container without making holes into the steel? Would it be possible to make metal frame that fit snug into every corner end to end so it doesn't shift about?
Yes. I'm building wood shelves inside a container. Shelves are attached to the strap rings in the container using J-Bolts to the 2x4 studs. No welding or drilling.
I'll see if I can post some video of the way I did it.
Whats the r value of this kind of isolation?
Maria Clarissa Ramirez if ranges between R11-R13 so adding another sheet or a roof and siding would help increase that
@@ContainingLuxury oh ok.. thanks a lot.. cause ill be needing a total of 41 to 60
Maria Clarissa Ramirez where do you live! Antarctica :). You may need to go closed cell on the inside then and just bike the bullet on expense.. and then add some exterior insulation as well, you can for sure get to those numbers
Hahahaha.. quebec, thats what the building code requires,so.. no choice
Shipping container ... what is the width of the average prison cell?
With today's technology and advancements in insulation, why is Insofast so stone age on the r values? They really should be looking at a better r value for owners in northern and southern climates. Very few places can settle for the r values u stated.
I am part of a project that uses stainless steel spray foam insulated containers made for refrigeration that cost $5k new. Seems to a better option than your used container plus all this material and labor.
$1400 for spray foam... uhh no, he was giving you friend price because its 2k setup price in most of the country. I got $6,500 to $12,200 quotes from sprayfoam places for a 40' highcube here in OK.
Why not put the insulation on the outside and then do conduit electrical and plumbing on the inside and under the container? I’ve always wondered why people frame a container since that kind of removes the advantage of the prebuilt box.
you will need another layer on the outside + siding to achieve a high enough R value. Insofast is only R11 + the container wall you get R13 total .
@@toddtempleton9321 sure. I assumed it would be more than just insofast but I just think adding that thickness on the outside makes more sense. I also think removing the inside framing element has to save time and money. Maybe just me
Would it be smarter to have the electrician come in first before you lay the panels down for a do it yourselfer?
Would it make more sense to use this on the outside (if the system allows you to do so) - for instance, if you were going to put on a exterior siding material.
Get the BEST freakin stove/oven you can get your hands on and install it in that unit! Do it please por favor
Alex Arreola hahaha
Put it on outside it would will work save room if ur the carpenter u claim you’ll figure out how to finish inside
Spray foam would be cheaper.
The problem with spray foam and Polystyrene is that they are both very toxic.
You forgot another con. It's not closed cell foam.
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Is it me or does it look and feel a bit claustrophobic?
It's not you it's the container. Have you ever worked in/loaded/unloaded a '40 box or '53 trailer?
It's worse 😇