I have a 30yo 225G that had the same problem as yours, but instead of replacing the range selector switch I cleaned up the terminals. I then put electric contact grease on it and it worked a hell of a lot better. Good luck.
We handle some of these switches like that. Sometimes it gets so melted and embedded into the plastic that the new part becomes a better option. We also take the customers wants and the reliability of the repair into consideration. Some people just want it working for today, and some want it like it should be. A case by case basis I guess you could say. I appreciate the comment!
@@TealArcAutoI have this exact machine with 279 hours and won't weld in that position. My switch and contractors are in great shape, cleaned them. Went thru it. Any ideas? Thanks
@ragefilledvergin does it weld in the other switch positions? If so the switch is bad and the contacts that are bad are under the wiper.. not the square ones you can see but the round contact pad under the wiper. To see the bad spot you have to compress the spring on the switch and push the roll pin out to completely disassemble the switch then you’ll see the bad contact. If it does not weld in any other switch position then the problem is most likely not the switch. Does it have auxiliary power at the plugs?
New subscriber here!!! ...I just bought a Miller Bobcat 225 with an opposed twin that I have no idea if it even starts. I do like those old opposed twin engines though. A lot of people do not but I have to dive into it some time soon. Those contacts look like they should be able to be replaced without replacing the whole dial...
I wish it were so. The contacts are molded into the plastic. Miller did it on purpose. They want you to spend more with them. A lot of times you can get by in a pinch just cleaning em but once they start to go, its inevitable you need the whole switch.
@@TealArcAuto Thank you for getting back to me. I have an idea that may or may not work so well. The learning curve on my new to me 1967 Atlas Lathe and my new reality 3D printer may be of use for making pieces that would be better for replacing terminals. Especially in dusty and dirt ridden places like Texas. I am in Pa but I have seen so many problems that I would love to repair or replace. I will keep you in the loop . I will look for an email so we might be able to come up with some great solutions for things...if you would be so interested....-John
No problem! Definitely interested! You can always use the “Contact Us” page on our website at www.TealArcAuto.com or send us an email to Info@TealArcAuto.com.
I could make another video showing that, but it would be a while before it got uploaded. I have hundreds of hours of footage that still needs to be edited and uploaded. On the plus side, the diagram on the door of the machine shows which wire goes to which terminal or the owners manual does as well. You can download it from miller's website.
Through Miller, but these switches have been on and off of back order ever since covid. I might actually have one sitting on the shelf due to them constantly being on backorder. I find that that is one of the most challenging things about owning a welder repair business is having to stock all the repair items yourself welding supply stores do not stock welder repair parts. They also do not fix your machines. They want to sell you a machine and wash their hands of you until you need to buy something else. We try very very hard to break that mentality at our store and repair facility. As far as the automotive side of the business goes every parts store has every part we could ever need for every vehicle that we ever work on and if they don’t, it’s usually only a couple days out. If you have the serial number for your machine, let me have it. I’ll check the part number and see if I do have one on the shelf. Thank you for the comment and have a great day!
I plugged in the 12vs X-treme suitcase welder. For the wire settings I was only getting 13 volts. I should be getting 17--28 volts. With getting lower voltage could it be the switch or could there be another underlying problem? I cant look at it now, Its getting looked at by my dad who's an electrician.
Are you getting 13v regardless where the rheostat is set? Is the voltage higher at high idle? The suitcase won’t adjust the voltage higher? With the suitcase I wanna say you dont need it in the wire setting. You need it in a stick setting. If you had a 70 series feeder then you would put it in the wire setting and plug the control cable into the remote receptacle. The suitcase used constant current to power and weld itself I believe. The 70 series uses ac voltage from the remote receptacle to power itself but needs constant voltage to weld so you would keep it in the wire setting for that feeder. But like I said that X-treme should be in a stick (cc) setting I believe
So we tried every setting we could play with in the 225G. Stuck/tig we played with all those settings, we changed the polarity on the Leads. When we adjusted the course adjustment the volts did change but each result was the same. The wire would glow red when it made contact but no arc.
I have a 30yo 225G that had the same problem as yours, but instead of replacing the range selector switch I cleaned up the terminals. I then put electric contact grease on it and it worked a hell of a lot better. Good luck.
We handle some of these switches like that. Sometimes it gets so melted and embedded into the plastic that the new part becomes a better option. We also take the customers wants and the reliability of the repair into consideration. Some people just want it working for today, and some want it like it should be. A case by case basis I guess you could say. I appreciate the comment!
@@TealArcAutoI have this exact machine with 279 hours and won't weld in that position. My switch and contractors are in great shape, cleaned them. Went thru it. Any ideas? Thanks
@ragefilledvergin does it weld in the other switch positions? If so the switch is bad and the contacts that are bad are under the wiper.. not the square ones you can see but the round contact pad under the wiper. To see the bad spot you have to compress the spring on the switch and push the roll pin out to completely disassemble the switch then you’ll see the bad contact. If it does not weld in any other switch position then the problem is most likely not the switch. Does it have auxiliary power at the plugs?
@@TealArcAuto it welds in the other positions yes, thank you. Is this a part u sell?
@ragefilledvergin yes but I would need your serial number on your machine to make sure I look up the correct one.
New subscriber here!!! ...I just bought a Miller Bobcat 225 with an opposed twin that I have no idea if it even starts. I do like those old opposed twin engines though. A lot of people do not but I have to dive into it some time soon. Those contacts look like they should be able to be replaced without replacing the whole dial...
I wish it were so. The contacts are molded into the plastic. Miller did it on purpose. They want you to spend more with them. A lot of times you can get by in a pinch just cleaning em but once they start to go, its inevitable you need the whole switch.
@@TealArcAuto Thank you for getting back to me. I have an idea that may or may not work so well. The learning curve on my new to me 1967 Atlas Lathe and my new reality 3D printer may be of use for making pieces that would be better for replacing terminals. Especially in dusty and dirt ridden places like Texas. I am in Pa but I have seen so many problems that I would love to repair or replace. I will keep you in the loop . I will look for an email so we might be able to come up with some great solutions for things...if you would be so interested....-John
No problem! Definitely interested! You can always use the “Contact Us” page on our website at www.TealArcAuto.com or send us an email to Info@TealArcAuto.com.
Can you show us or me how to set the 225g plus for power source only
For auxiliary power? Like grinder, lights, etc…?
Yes sir there's nothing on the internet I'm new to this rig 1994 225g plus
th-cam.com/users/shortsXLt1-Rl6PCo?si=BLf_fbYJGiYZwlBy
Can you make a video saying what the wire numbers are on the switch terminals that you replaced?
I could make another video showing that, but it would be a while before it got uploaded. I have hundreds of hours of footage that still needs to be edited and uploaded. On the plus side, the diagram on the door of the machine shows which wire goes to which terminal or the owners manual does as well. You can download it from miller's website.
Which number wire goes on which terminal.
Check the diagram and read it carefully while looking at the switch to determine which terminal is which.
Where did you find the switch?
Through Miller, but these switches have been on and off of back order ever since covid. I might actually have one sitting on the shelf due to them constantly being on backorder. I find that that is one of the most challenging things about owning a welder repair business is having to stock all the repair items yourself welding supply stores do not stock welder repair parts. They also do not fix your machines. They want to sell you a machine and wash their hands of you until you need to buy something else. We try very very hard to break that mentality at our store and repair facility. As far as the automotive side of the business goes every parts store has every part we could ever need for every vehicle that we ever work on and if they don’t, it’s usually only a couple days out. If you have the serial number for your machine, let me have it. I’ll check the part number and see if I do have one on the shelf. Thank you for the comment and have a great day!
I have problem with my miller 225 I put 7 voltage is to cold if I put 8 is to hot can you help me out thanks
I made a quick video. I’m going to be uploading it soon and I will tag you in it. Keep a lookout for it.
I plugged in the 12vs X-treme suitcase welder. For the wire settings I was only getting 13 volts. I should be getting 17--28 volts. With getting lower voltage could it be the switch or could there be another underlying problem? I cant look at it now, Its getting looked at by my dad who's an electrician.
Are you getting 13v regardless where the rheostat is set? Is the voltage higher at high idle? The suitcase won’t adjust the voltage higher? With the suitcase I wanna say you dont need it in the wire setting. You need it in a stick setting. If you had a 70 series feeder then you would put it in the wire setting and plug the control cable into the remote receptacle. The suitcase used constant current to power and weld itself I believe. The 70 series uses ac voltage from the remote receptacle to power itself but needs constant voltage to weld so you would keep it in the wire setting for that feeder. But like I said that X-treme should be in a stick (cc) setting I believe
So we tried every setting we could play with in the 225G. Stuck/tig we played with all those settings, we changed the polarity on the Leads. When we adjusted the course adjustment the volts did change but each result was the same. The wire would glow red when it made contact but no arc.