All The Best Ways to Convert Film to Digital
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- All The Ways to Convert Film to Digital
Here is the list of everything I used in making this video for converting 8mm Film and Super 8 Film to a digital format:
Personal Scanner:
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KODAK REELS 8mm & Super 8 Films Digitizer - amzn.to/3vuSzK5
- Handles 3", 4", 5", 7", and 9" Reels
- Produces 1080p digital videos
* I have seen this with a coupon at times so watch for that
Pro:
Wolverine 8mm & Super 8 Reels Digitizer - amzn.to/3TwUhCE
- Handles 3", 4", 5", 7", and 9" Reels
- Produces 1080p digital videos
Standard:
Wolverine 8mm and Super 8 Film Reel Converter - amzn.to/3TGlsuF
- Only does 3" and 5" reels:
- Produces 720p digital videos
Any Memory Card should work:
SanDisk 32GB 3-Pack - amzn.to/49mICvY
Camera Equipment:
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(what I used)
Sony a7 IV Mirrorless 4k - amzn.to/49iv4lj
Dolica GX650B204 Tripod - amzn.to/3Igbtqu
Cardboard Box Screen - Free with the purchase of any Amazon Product of appropriate size
Other Good Cameras:
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Sony Alpha ZV-E10 - APS-C Mirrorless - amzn.to/3J17DlE
Sony Alpha a6400 Mirrorless Camera - amzn.to/3IZOnFm
As an Amazon Affiliate I earn a commission on qualifying purchases at no cost to you
iPhone Software:
ProCam 8 - Manual Camera + Raw
Reel diameter | Feet length | Play Time Length | Digitize Time
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3” reel 50 feet 2-3 minutes 30 Min
4” reel 100 feet 5-6 minutes 60 Min
5” reel 200 feet 12-14 minutes 120 Min
6” reel 300 feet 19-22 minutes 180 Min
7” reel 400 feet 26-29 minutes 240 Min
Televideo Video Transfer Device
Optex VS612 = ebay.us/d9kRum
Different Kodak Projectors to Look for:
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Kodak Projectors w/Sound: = ebay.us/URw3N4
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Kodak Ektasound Moviedeck 285 Projector (This is the projector I used)
Kodak Ektasound Moviedeck 265 Projector
Kodak Ektasound Moviedeck 275 Projector
Kodak Projectors No Sound: = ebay.us/w9NvII
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Kodak Moviedeck 425 Projector
Kodak Moviedeck 435 Projector
Kodak Moviedeck 445 Projector
Kodak Moviedeck 455 Projector
Kodak Moviedeck 457 Projector
Kodak Moviedeck 475 Projector
I am an ebay Affiliate and I earn a commission on qualifying purchases
Review of the Projector by databits:
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• 70s Projector Kodak Mo...
Chapters:
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00:00 Start
00:51 Introduction
01:36 Going Professional - Outside Processing
02:40 What processing companies offer
04:29 Buying Professional - Equipment
05:28 Buying Personal - Equipment
06:45 Digitizing Process
07:45 Digitizing Output
09:39 Digitizer Issues
11:23 Digitizer Summary
11:58 Going Old School
13:20 Old School Process
14:03 The Camera Equipment
15:20 Old School Issues
17:56 Projector Samples
18:10 Projector vs Digitizer
Check out my other videos on VHS to Digital Conversion using Hardware Upscaler and also Convert VHS to Digital - How To Convert Your VHS Tapes.. Thank you.
Reference:
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www.fiafnet.org/pages/E-Resou...
www.filmkorn.org/super8data/d...
thetelecinema.com/super8-8mm-...
www.moviestuff.tv/moviestuff_... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks for this video. Very helpful and much appreciated.
The bluish color on film is normal for a Daylight film (Kodak) you should color correct, but you might check which Kodak film was used because if it was a color corrected D (D=Daylight) it will be bluish, or T (T=Tungsten) Tungsten will be orange and it depends how the DP (Director of Photography, cameramen) shoot it it will shift colors with filters on camera and there are several that shifts a bit the image, with the post process you must think on a Color a correction Software I recommend Davinci (on blackmagic page the simple version is free) - Also if the cameramen did not use any filter you must correct it in post but sometimes no filter on camera is good depends the use and where it was shot (to know where the fils stock is some times on the edge of the film and some times in the white strip before the positive was written)
Thank you for pointing this video out on a reply to a question I posted on another of your videos. Old school it will be as I already own most of the equipment you suggest, the only exception is the Optex viewer. Thanks again.
Unbelievably thorough video! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice summary! Thanks!
Thank you wonderful video. It really helped! And thanks to the other viewer about Kodak/Wolverine.
Thank you for watching
Great advice! Now I know there are different options. I appreciate your video. 👍
thank you for taking the time to make this very informative video!
very well done sir.
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant video, which comes from a lot of experience. I am new to this and I feel I can tackle it now. Thanks very much!
Glad it was helpful!
Didn't mean to end there, this is good information and more than one method is offered!
Thank you
Awesome job. I was not sure what to do with my 8mm film. I totally liked the iso and frame rate information to reduce the flicker!!
Glad you found it helpful, thanks for watching
Man do I ever appreciate this. By far the best Ive found on TH-cam. Especially the projector model that has a sound output jack and camera model that has the matching input sound jack. Huge problem solved with the projector sound not ending up in the digitized result.
Glad you found it helpful, thanks for watching
Very detailed but easy to follow explanation of the different methodologies. I've been using the Wolverine Pro for over a year. Started having issues with 4th guide sticking, but a minor problem and fixable. However, a major issue just started, take up reel immediately starts turning as soon as AC power is applied. Can still "quickly" attach leader and still turn the power light on and get to the menu and record. Not easy, but doable. working on it. Thanks for the informative overview. Yes, I'm a DIY'r person. Any thoughts on my problem would be appreciated. Thanks
Very helpful. I bought the Pro Wolverine and have been very happy with it but plan to go old school as a second back-up. Great advice about frame rate adjustment.
Yea just had this conversation with my neighbor, and he asked me what way I ended up with, and I told him I did both.. which I did, because I figured why not while I was doing it.. right!
Thank you! I have that exact projector! Years ago, I recorded the film from the projector screen with the camera behind projector like you did, and although not too bad, it wasn't the best. I tried doing this for my dad's Vietnam War slides too. I'm glad I came across your video! I am going to try your ideas!
That is super.. I am glad I am not alone.. Good luck!
Nice presentation. I have been looking at the Kodak Reels device on Amazon and the $399 price tag along with the reviews had me pause. But after listening to you I may proceed.
Excellent video. I have an 8mm film of the 1964 24 hour Le Mans motor car race. There is a famous French film "Un Homme et Une femme" that was released in 1965. They used film from the same race that I filmed. Amazon here I come!!!
Great informative and helpful video.
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
Great video. I plan to try projecting 8mm movies onto a gray background and record them with our VHS-C camcorder, then input taped movies directly into the DVD side of my Funai combo VHS DVD recorder to record them to DVD's. I expect that there will be frame flicker and image quality won't be great, but wonder if this setup will give watchable results. Wish that those 8mm converters would record to DVD's directly.
Great video, very informative. I have tried a Wolverine device with some good results but i feel could be better. I have tried recording the projection directly via a mobile device and app which has been good but the suffer with hotspots, is there anything you can recommend to stop that? Also can you recommend a lower budget camera which would do a sufficient job of recording? One that allows manual changing of frame rate and ISO etc.? Many thanks
Fantastic Siggy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Sir!
Great work!
Great video, many thanks.
Thank you
Excellent video, thank you. Still considering going down the 'budget' digitizer option like Kodak 'Reels'. Might be worth buying one, digitizing all my old standard 8 movies (many!) and then re-selling the unit afterwards. Alas no option to hire one where we live. The old video camera I used before, Sony HDR-SR10, did a half-decent job using our old Eumig projector and a JVC 45 degree mirror device when I digitized a few old standard 8 movies. Alas that video camera now emits the hard-drive 'click of death' sound so not an option. I do have a Panasonic DMC-FZ1000 still/video camera. Not as posh as yours- i cannot adjust the frame rate to match that of the projector. According to my Google search I have 2 options of120 fps at 1080p and 25 fps at 4K. When I look at the current setting it is on some sort of AVCHD setting... I'm no techno-head, sorry! The projector has 2 options of 18 or 24 fps. can you suggest the settings that might be the best option? I tried one small reel and, although the result is not THAT flickery some of it has a line that keeps moving up the screen which is not on the original. Appreciate any help you can suggest.
Great Work that will save me an abundance of time. Many thanks, -Rich
I used my mobile phone on a tripod to record from projector and it worked great
Great idea😊
Some years ago, we modified a Eumig 'single shot! projector with a microswitch on the takeup spool. This was wired to a computer mouse. The projector was pointed toward a large condenser lens built into a dark box. Adjust the distance to get a 'floating' image in the lens.
Using Cine Cap free software and the mouse pointer set over the 'shot button' the take up spool catches the microswitch and 'captures' a single frame at a time. You need a camera and a video capture USB connector to get the film into your PC. I used an old colour CCTV camera ( which can also reverse the image back the right way!)
All a bit technical, but as I had nearly all the parts was an inexpensive solution.
That is very cool.. I whish I had the time to create something like that. thank you for sharing.
Good job on this video. Very helpful. I purchased the Pro Wolverine back a couple years ago and have done maybe 2000 foot of 8 and Super 8 film with it. I found that the quality of the scan is highly dependent on the quality of the original. But my experience is I always had to use noise reduction software on the finished scan. Some scans are totally unusable. but overall I like the Wolverine and would buy another if this one ever wears out.
I did play with the Wolverine Pro before my TH-cam days.. and yes that or the Kodak I think are both worth the money. I would probably avoid the Wolverine Standard just because it is converting thins to a 720p and I just don't see the lower resolution standing up to time as we move into the 4k and 8k worlds... Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video. You mentioned the Wolverine Pro but did not speak of how it compares to the Kodak as you did with standard Wolverine. How does it compare?
THANKS FOOR ALL THE INFO MIDDLESIGGY
You are welcome
Hi, great video. Can you give me a little more info on the sound output jack on the moviedeck 285? I see what appears to be 3 different jacks where you plugged in. I'm guessing maybe one is speaker output, one maybe headphone and not sure what the third woud be? What exactly did you use, And is it line level or pre-amp? Just wondering if the sound gets blown out or how soft or loud they are coming out. Thanks!
Great video!
Thanks!
Great vid. Do all projectors in your description have variable speed adjustment? Hard to find a decent projector here in Europe. Thanks
I don't know if all of them do.. I just listed all of the Kodak models that I could find, that were similar to the one I own. Sorry Hope that helps
I have a Canon, I’ll
Give it a go. Many thanks
A problem with the pro Wolverine scanner is that occasionally the frame capture will happen before the film stops to be captured and it will look like a bouncy jell-o top, but also, the frames do bounce around a bit.. the pro Wolverine scanner also only has a 3MP sensor compared to the Kodak’s 8MP sensor.
I ended up using a Kalart editor/viewer paired up to a drill on low speed (the viewer has a hand crank since it’s also an editor) and I just record its screen with one of my broadcast cameras.
Thank you for the comment
Thank you so verra much for your intuitive and extremely helpful video. Your take on this subject was by far the most concise and informative that I have found. Have you b y any chance had good results cleaning older 8mm and Super 8 mm film please?
I have never done any form of cleaning other than a micro fiber cloth and sort of running the film through it, to try and just get rid of the dirt that collected on it
@@MiddleSiggyHomestead Thank you for your kind response. The 8mm film that I have is quite old and not in the best repair :) I believe that I need to wash the film using a rewinder hand crank rig and something like the Film Guard product in order to garner the best result possible. I also tried the Wolverine Pro digitizer, it did ok. I have ordered the Kodak version to try, as it has a better camera and seems, as you mentioned a bit better option. Once that is complete your recomendations have greatly helped me winnow down next editing steps. Thank you so verra much for your approach to these topics, your cndor and professionalism with heart. I greatly appreciate your insight and time responding.
Superb video! I Have loads of old cini films my dad recorded in the 70s and 80s. I Did send some off several years ago to be digitalised but it was quite expensive, I have put some of the results on my channel. The results you got from the kodak look superb in my opinion, I might purchase one of those machines and have a go myself. Can you tell me what editing software you used after? I Used to use PowerDirector to make films. Also do you know if cini cameras actually recorded sound or not? I Dont think any of my dads had sound when he was playing them back on a projector years ago but maybe that was because the projector didnt have sound???
I use Sony Vegas for all of my video editing. As for sound, I used my Kodak projector that I shared in the video.
Yes I was very impressed in the video quality of the Kodak scanner. (Other than the color issues at times)
Good luck glad it helped
Southpro at 10 reels on 1 ( provided ) thumb drive costs 144 dollars. Multiply that by 7,2 ( your total number times 10 ) and that is 1,036.80 dollars. And each of your reels can be up to 10.5 inches and still be charged for just 1 item.
Your high street shop uses a wolverine type machine . I found a professional company in Germany that can do film cleaning as it should and a 2k transfer but that's 350 euros per 10 minutes. I've been inherited hundreds of hours of footage. I'm just going to film what I can project with my iPhone and that will be good enough I'm afraid. It's rather interesting that in 2024 we still don't have a proper solution for this problem
Hi, is it just the 285 that has the flip out screen or does the 265 and 275 have it also? Can you suggest an alternative projector with a flip out screen?
Any thoughts on the 16mm film?
I just have 2 movies I made in high school. Who do you recommend to convert these for me?
Im not sure if you're still active but getting into shooting on super 8 and was seeing if you could answer a question. On newer carts of super 8 film, whats the best way to remove so you can load it to a reel? Appreciate it and hope you start making videos again!
I never actually shot in 8mm I had my family film and just converted it.. sorry
Question is, did you like the Kodiak results or filming the side screen result better?
Honestly, I like them both but for different reasons. The Kodak did a great job of making a High resolution video and on the softer settings it looked great.. But doing the side projector, I was able to convert the film very quickly... Truly I liked them both so much I actually did the same conversion on both devices and kept both versions... great question.. thanks!
QUESTION: I only found 1080 Rez for the Kodak online. Is there a model that does 1728x1296? Grrreat job, you read all the questions In my mind, concise, + super video presentation.
So they say 1080 online because that is the standard. Because film is not in the same aspect ratio it end up being a slightly different pixel resolution but equivalently 1080.. I think marketing people do that because people would get even more confused .
Thanx SO MUCH 4 getting back with me so promptly!@@MiddleSiggyHomestead
You caught me on a good day... This is my hobby :)
Is there a cheap 16mm version of this same device out there anywhere?
Do you have any experience with having to clean your old tapes of mildew? I have a bunch of tapes from the 1960's that have a lot of dry white mildew that's not just on the edges but also a bit on the surface of the film.
No but I have seen a few guys do videos on that.. wish I knew where the links were, but they should be easy to find.. sorry..
What software did you use to crop the video after digitizing?
I personally used Vegas. But there are quite a few out there. Hope that helps
Does anyone know where I can get a projector that will work with 240 VAC and 50 Hz? I have an old Kodak projector but can't use it because of the voltage here.
What focal length is best for filming on your a74
In looking at the specs the a7Iv has a focal length multiplier of 1.0x, but you are getting out of my knowledge level real quick. I did do some research and found that I needed to be about 1.5 feet from the screen.
I was using a scanner digitizer and found out it was tearing film pre 1950.. tearing through the slots..i might need to do profesionally copied..but not locally as the local told me he could not scan the tail end..
On the offhand chance you don't know, it's not made or designed by Kodak, it's a Wolverine.
So buy a wolverine, or a Kodak.. they are both made by the same Company.. interesting. Thanks for watching
I’m never keen with having this kind of stuff done by a company. I don’t care how good they do the job. My biggest concern is they will surely have made a backup of all your films. Whose to say (given the times we live in) that they won’t use your footage in some capacity?
I knew a guy that found out that some of his film was used (without permission or compensation in any way) for a documentary. It was a small clip but even still.
No, so, I am all for doing this myself.
I tried a Wolverine, but found that the resulting video had about half of the visual resolution of the result I got by projecting onto cardstock on the wall and capturing it with a standard definition miniDV camcorder. That is, there was about half the level of detail in the resulting footage on the Wolverine compared to the camcorder approach. I wish someone would make something like the wolverine products that had better optics for twice the cost--or let you use your iPhone's camera with a synchronized bluetooth app for perhaps the same cost. I see that there are $11,000 Moviestuff scanners that will scan each frame at 4k, but there has got to be a way to build a product for less that would let you take advantage of a nice camera you already have to get 4K scans of each frame. I also tried one of those frosted glass things, but I found it too bright in the center and dark on the edges when I did it. So for me, (a) pros were ridiculously expensive; (b) Wolverine was unacceptable quality; (c) projecting onto cardstock on the wall was ok; and (d) I wish there was a good-quality frame-by-frame scanner for under $1000.
Did you get the standard or the pro version, the standard is only 720p the pro does 1080p
Very good description of how to record a video of an 8 mm or super 8 film. I learned the hard way, showing the movie onto a white sheet of paper and recording it with my video camcorder. Flicker and keystone effect were the main problems. ( Surprisingly an older camcorder produced a picture without flicker- still don’t know why but great). Finally got a Wolverine from Amazon ( or something similar from Amazon), allowed to use a larger roll of film. All in all this gave acceptable quality videos. I still wonder how my Channel 5 (or six or whatever) can seemingly convert film to video in real time.
One additional item. I recorded sound with my tape recorder and saved it with the hopes of connecting the two together, which I have done. Very, very difficult to synchronize sound with picture, but with an eight-year- old birthday party who cares?
Can you say impossible?
How do I handle old splices that might come apart during this process?
I had some older tape that you can use to redo the connections. You can still order the tape on Amazon. Worst case I used scotch tape, and punched the holes out on the track.. (Had to edit.. must have been half asleep when I replied. )
Thank you! Great idea!
I have been searching th e internet for help with my Kodak 455 that I purchased to view and convert (filming it using my iPad) my family home movies. The problem is every movie I play appears blurry on the pop out screen. No matter how much I adjust the focus, it never focuses. It plays fine on the wall. Any suggestions? Thank you
Are you using the pop out screen like mine? On the 2 units I have I have found a slight difference in the clarity due to some misalignment of the plastic. But like you said when you play it on the wall you don’t have the mirror and other things to complicate the picture. You could just record it off the wall or a good projector screen I have done that in the past also
Was wondering if I could ask you one more thing. I’m recording using a good digital camera right up close to the pop out screen, but I’m getting these burst of bright overexposed light over the digitally recorded footage. The original footage plays fine, but when I record it, it contains these “sunbursts” that pulse over the footage every second or so. Any idea how I can fix this?
Yea I did see that when I recorded with my iPhone, I don't think the iPhone had the ability to adapt to the bright light when the light would shine through,.. I did not get the problem with my Sony Camera.. Maybe (and this is just a guess) I don't know if you can play with any settings on the camera like ISO or its auto white balance and maybe get it to sort of normalize the recording. so you have a sample you could upload and share?
From what you have said.......They are not worth owning....
Going professional doesnt mean actually going professional
Yea I just wanted a fun term or category
Hello and thank you for your video!
I shoot and develop my N8 and S8 mm films.
When i needed to digitalize them i tried all the methods you have show.
At the end i i have converted 2 projectors, one N8, the second S8 (but i could convert one double gauge projectors only).
With no the Lens on, a TV sensor upside down in the place of the original lamp and a 3W dimmerable led light chip in the place of the projector lens face inside.
The Sony TV sensor has a controller as a little joystick by the way i can control WB, gain and, overall the shutter speed step by step.
You need to mount the TV sensor good in place to have ha good fixed focus and a little lens to get closer to the film gate and 'fill' the image.
After this you can get a real time 600 TV lines output and see It on a monitor or capture It by a PC video capture device.
I use an old TC Hollywood 9SE that can capture an Avi or a MP2 after all the digital adjustments in preview as sharpness, color balance, hue, saturation, and other.
It's not a 4k result but i can get nice 560x720 PAL footages.
On my IG 2M_foto or pppc1978 you can take a brief look to the results.
Thank you!
Regards,
Max