Many thanks Juan Alberto ! Be careful as I made a mistake with the white decals on the bow. As suggested in a comment they shoud be fitted below the dive bars 🤗 Thanks for your interest and comment 🙂
Outrageous! I love this...even a framed picture but I will order this and keep checking this video to build One for Myself. Thank you from the Philippines !
Many thanks Eric, glad to know that you will build one by yourself 🙂 Pay attention to the decal under the front dive bars, they must be positioned below and not above, I did a mistake. Cheers from France ! 😉
There are some big mistakes as the misplaced decal on the bow, but she cames out not so bad at the end. Once again many thanks for your comment and interest 😉🙂
Wonderful! That's great! Still, there is one inaccuracy. Rust stains can not be located on the underwater part of the hull, below the waterline, as they are simply washed off by sea water. However, they can take place when the submarine is in the dock.
Thanks for your interest, you are totally right for rust stains. Plus, even if the sub was in drydock, they should habe been done at the end of the weathering... 🤔
Nose, pero el efecto de suciedad bajo la lnea de flotacion, color ocre, no me convence...pero el enmascarado con esa rejilla plastica para el efecto de las baldosas aneoicas, muy bueno, felicitaciones
Many thanks for your interest. For the grid, it's a metallic one, so it can be bended for the model, and it keeps its shape. Sorry to ear that you dislike the occre colour 🤗
Thanks for your comment, it's a nice and cheap kit but be aware of the following "issues" : - no PE for the proppeller, - decals issue (for 2 of them on the bow), - some missing panel lines on the conning tower. And maybe some other stuff I failed to see. Anyway, have a good build 😉
Why do you put the decals on after the pigment and sometimes weathering? Seems like in the real world that stuff would go on top of the paint that the decals represent
Very goog point ! Sometimes I'm so focused on weathering I forget decals... I now try to apply them as soon as I can, but as weathering starts with the paint, it's not ideal... By the way thanks foe your interest ! 🙂
The military gives more frequent attention to a ship's markings than the boat's hull paint as a whole. I don't know about other Navies, but US submarines do not have painted markings at all except in port we put florescent orange rectangles near the waterline fore and aft as a tell that we're too low in the water if it rises above them. All other identification on the "sail" is hung on it as signage and is stored in a ventilation compartment before getting underway. The brow banner is also rolled up stored the same.
Very nice built, the painting and weathering is amazing, very realistic, I like how you build up the layers gradually. What mask did you use after the first black primer, when you were spraying with white, to create the illusion of the sound-proofing tiles? It looks like a plastic grid type of thing but was on screen for fractions of a second and your hand covered most of it. That was a brilliant idea, for this scale. You did the same on the PLA Kilo class, but there the mask seemed like a piece of metal grid. Again almost invisible in the video. Can you enlighten us? :-)
Thanks for your interest Manos. My apologies for the forgotten titles for tools / products. I'm not a real TH-camr as everyone can see in my videos... 🤗 Here is the reference I'm using in both videos (Yasen and Kilo class, both are metallic 😉) : www.ebay.com/itm/Maquett-801-02-Metal-Sheet-Galvanised-Steel-Grid-Grating-Mesh-0-6mm-/223466353440 You can also find some similar references of Photo Etched grids from Hauler, Aber and Eduard. You can achieve this process with maskink tape, but it's so long and hard to get it slim enough. Hope this helps, thanks again for your interest, and you're welcomed for any other question 😀
@@ghkmodels Many thanks! appreciate your rely. Yes this makes sense, 0.6mm grid I guess is very appropriate for 1:350 tiles and the fact that it's metal, makes it perfect for curving around the sub hulls. From I see there are also available with different apertures, anything from 0.038 mm - 4.5 mm, so you can do all kinds of effects in different scales too. Again many thanks for the idea! By the way, your videos are great and you can always improve with time, even the "pro-youtubers" 😀 started small and developed with time. How about doing more scales for subs in the future? (1:144, 1:72?) Best regards!
You said all about the grid(s) 👍I only use it on subs as it was really thought for this purpose. And it's also a bit new for me 😅 Thanks for your kind words about my videos, just trying to share, even if I'm far from making top notch models. Just enjoying the hobby 👍😀 To answer your last question : at this moment, I own three 1/144 sub kits and three at 1/72 scale, waiting in my stash... For sure one day I'll build a "big one" (I've already built a 1/144 214 Type U-Boot from Revell), but not yet, I'm still working on the 1/350 Typhoon from HobbyBoss (a big one for its scale 😄), and I will probably build a plane or a ship for the next model. But who knows... 🤔
![[Full build] SSBN Typhoon class - HobbyBoss 1/350 (Part I)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yrVEdIAsY9M/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Full build] SSBN Typhoon class - HobbyBoss 1/350 (Part I)](/img/tr.png)
Thank you kindly for these videos!! I'm about to tackle a typhoon class. And looking forward to applying your techniques.
Thanks for your interest John and have a great build with the Typhoon 😉
Impressive!!!
Many thanks Juan Alberto ! Be careful as I made a mistake with the white decals on the bow. As suggested in a comment they shoud be fitted below the dive bars 🤗 Thanks for your interest and comment 🙂
great job , really liking your subs ! I had a real obsession during my younger years . best wishes from Wales 😍😍
Many thanks Fred 😊
Great job
Many thanks for your interest and comment Kevin 🙂
Nice build!.. thanks from NZ 👍🇳🇿
Many thanks for your interest and comment ! 🙂
Outrageous! I love this...even a framed picture but I will order this and keep checking this video to build One for Myself.
Thank you from the Philippines !
Many thanks Eric, glad to know that you will build one by yourself 🙂 Pay attention to the decal under the front dive bars, they must be positioned below and not above, I did a mistake.
Cheers from France ! 😉
Another great sub.... well done
There are some big mistakes as the misplaced decal on the bow, but she cames out not so bad at the end. Once again many thanks for your comment and interest 😉🙂
THE ARTIST 😁👌
😊 Many thanks for your interest and comment ! I'm definitly not an artist but I'm glad if you liked the model, thanks again ! 😀
Very beautiful & beautiful job with all many details (sorry for my english, i am from France)
Ça tombe bien je suis français moi aussi 😉 Merci pour ton intérêt et ton sympathique commentaire 🙂
Great video...well done. Thank you.
You're welcome, many thanks for your interestand comment, appreciated 😀
Amazing hull plating effect. What kind of stencil-mesh did you use? What size of the holes?
I'm using a steel grating mesh from "Maquett - Profiles & Sheets" (ref 801-02) 😉 Thanks for your interest and comment 🙂
Moin, eine schöne Version einer Yasen-Klasse. Gruß condock24
Danke sehr schön Condock24 🙂
Nagyon szép.. Very Nice!
Thanks for your interest Ádám 😀
Wonderful! That's great! Still, there is one inaccuracy. Rust stains can not be located on the underwater part of the hull, below the waterline, as they are simply washed off by sea water. However, they can take place when the submarine is in the dock.
Thanks for your interest, you are totally right for rust stains. Plus, even if the sub was in drydock, they should habe been done at the end of the weathering... 🤔
Nicely done 👍
Thanks for your interest and comment Chris ! 😀
I'm interested to know what you used as a stencil for the rubber tiles?
"Maquett Profiles and Sheets" réf. 801-02 Steel Grating Mesh 0,6mm (140x200mm) www.maquett.nl
Hope this helps, thanks for your interest 😊
@@ghkmodels Thanks! I picked up some square 0.75mm mesh myself as I think it scales a bit better for British subs, but on the same train of thought!
Wow..
Many thanks Roy 😃
Nose, pero el efecto de suciedad bajo la lnea de flotacion, color ocre, no me convence...pero el enmascarado con esa rejilla plastica para el efecto de las baldosas aneoicas, muy bueno, felicitaciones
Many thanks for your interest. For the grid, it's a metallic one, so it can be bended for the model, and it keeps its shape. Sorry to ear that you dislike the occre colour 🤗
Really nice model, I just posted a video for build the trumpeter 1/72 BTR-80 and am thinking about getting this kit next to build for a video.
Thanks for your comment, it's a nice and cheap kit but be aware of the following "issues" :
- no PE for the proppeller,
- decals issue (for 2 of them on the bow),
- some missing panel lines on the conning tower.
And maybe some other stuff I failed to see.
Anyway, have a good build 😉
@@ghkmodels ok thanks!
Why do you put the decals on after the pigment and sometimes weathering? Seems like in the real world that stuff would go on top of the paint that the decals represent
Very goog point ! Sometimes I'm so focused on weathering I forget decals... I now try to apply them as soon as I can, but as weathering starts with the paint, it's not ideal... By the way thanks foe your interest ! 🙂
The military gives more frequent attention to a ship's markings than the boat's hull paint as a whole. I don't know about other Navies, but US submarines do not have painted markings at all except in port we put florescent orange rectangles near the waterline fore and aft as a tell that we're too low in the water if it rises above them. All other identification on the "sail" is hung on it as signage and is stored in a ventilation compartment before getting underway. The brow banner is also rolled up stored the same.
Very nice built, the painting and weathering is amazing, very realistic, I like how you build up the layers gradually. What mask did you use after the first black primer, when you were spraying with white, to create the illusion of the sound-proofing tiles? It looks like a plastic grid type of thing but was on screen for fractions of a second and your hand covered most of it. That was a brilliant idea, for this scale. You did the same on the PLA Kilo class, but there the mask seemed like a piece of metal grid. Again almost invisible in the video. Can you enlighten us? :-)
Thanks for your interest Manos.
My apologies for the forgotten titles for tools / products. I'm not a real TH-camr as everyone can see in my videos... 🤗
Here is the reference I'm using in both videos (Yasen and Kilo class, both are metallic 😉) :
www.ebay.com/itm/Maquett-801-02-Metal-Sheet-Galvanised-Steel-Grid-Grating-Mesh-0-6mm-/223466353440
You can also find some similar references of Photo Etched grids from Hauler, Aber and Eduard.
You can achieve this process with maskink tape, but it's so long and hard to get it slim enough.
Hope this helps, thanks again for your interest, and you're welcomed for any other question 😀
@@ghkmodels Many thanks! appreciate your rely. Yes this makes sense, 0.6mm grid I guess is very appropriate for 1:350 tiles and the fact that it's metal, makes it perfect for curving around the sub hulls. From I see there are also available with different apertures, anything from 0.038 mm - 4.5 mm, so you can do all kinds of effects in different scales too. Again many thanks for the idea!
By the way, your videos are great and you can always improve with time, even the "pro-youtubers" 😀 started small and developed with time. How about doing more scales for subs in the future? (1:144, 1:72?) Best regards!
You said all about the grid(s) 👍I only use it on subs as it was really thought for this purpose. And it's also a bit new for me 😅
Thanks for your kind words about my videos, just trying to share, even if I'm far from making top notch models. Just enjoying the hobby 👍😀
To answer your last question : at this moment, I own three 1/144 sub kits and three at 1/72 scale, waiting in my stash... For sure one day I'll build a "big one" (I've already built a 1/144 214 Type U-Boot from Revell), but not yet, I'm still working on the 1/350 Typhoon from HobbyBoss (a big one for its scale 😄), and I will probably build a plane or a ship for the next model. But who knows... 🤔
love video, but ther music is all wrong too loud and distracking
Sorry for that disappointment... 🤗 Thanks for your interest Wayne !
Please...1/700 Nimitz
Well... Let's see what's happening after the Typhoon's build 😉😅
0:06 ‘Aircrafts’ 🤦🏻♂️
0:10 ‘Armored Vehicules’ 🤦🏻♂️
You have probably missed some aircrafts builds ! 😉 I have to agree for the armored vehicules, it's been a while since I've build one 😮