A few clarifications. The grayscale depth map gives you a possible 256 shades of gray. 3D slice mode assigns each shade a slice. Your image may or may not contain every shade, but generally speaking, cutting the number of passes down under 256 could result in you missing some "slices" which could affect your image quality. If you didn't want as deep an image, you could increase the speed or decrease the power instead of decreasing the passes. Increasing the passes beyond 256 means that some layers may be duplicated which will also increase your depth but may affect your image quality. Knowing the beam dot size of the lens you are using is also very important. Your beam dot size obviously affects your line interval. There are beam dot size calculators on the web. Lenses that can do large areas (150x150) also have a greater focus sweet spot for deeper images, but will produce less DPI because of their larger spot size, and will take longer removing material because of their decreased energy density. Lenses that have small (70x70) area will produce higher DPI with a smaller spot size, the smaller spot energy density is also more powerful and will remove material faster, however, the smaller line interval will take more time to engrave. There is always a series of practice runs necessary for every image, but you will get better at guestimating. You CAN do coin dies simply by mirroring the image and inverting the color. I have successfully made 2 sided penny restamping dies that work under a 20 ton Harbor Freight shop press.
Neo Thank you for taking the time to do all of the leg work and sharing the experimental data regarding the process. You have helped me in understanding some of the nuances and variables to contend with in creating such detailed pieces with a 20W. I look forward to learning more from you as you are patient enough to explain the important items necessary to comprehend the processes to reach the desired results. Much Respect!!
Thank you for taking the time to do this. I do not have a fiber, actually looking at the ComM B4 30W and I just started getting into affinity designer. I cannot tell you how nice it is to see someone use almost exactly what I plan to. Almost "everyone" shows off with Illustrator.
Excellent video. Tangible proof that you don’t need a 60W MOPA laser to make a great coin. This information is very rarely (if ever) shown with a modestly powered fiber machine. It is usually further obfuscated with 2d, 2.5d and 3d symantecs. I would love to have a big MOPA laser for sure but since I don’t need a big color range, there is no need. Saves thousands of dollars.
Finally, a simple, easy to understand explanation of how this whole process works! I had no idea that 20W laser could do 15K speed, or, you could actually get deep carvings with those other settings. Many thanks for making this video (+1 sub/thumb).
This is an excellent tutorial. I can see this process being used to creat "Challenge Coins". I am about to pull the trigger on a ComMarker B4, but now after seeing what you have done here, I am thinking about getting the heavier duty 30 Watt ( or even 50 Watt) version so I could make these in fewer passes.
Thank you is all I can say. I just bought a 100w Fiber Laser to do Cold Rolled Steel (overkill, I know) and have had no luck with anything I tried yet. But, this video will help with my getting the setting down for practice.
I have several machines and can tell you no matter the wattage, it takes a while to fine tune a project. I have pages and pages of settings for different projects. It definitely takes patience, but the result is worth every penny spent.
so if I wanted to do this with silver... I know the vacuum is taking the particles away, do you think there is a way to recover the silver? Brass, copper, not a big deal, but when you start getting into etching silver probably losing a fair amount of "coin" there. 🙂 Great video!
If you are goign to do enough silver or even gold dust that recovery could pay off you should get a specific vaccuum for each metal. There are a variety of small ones for metal recovery but they are not inexpensive. when you have enough recovered dust you smelt it back to a usable ingot. I have a cnc machine for circuit boards that has one of these vaccuums
Hello! I’m using a ComMarker B4 20W engraver with Lightburn, and recently I encountered a connection error while engraving in 3D on brass. The issue occurred while engraving a 3D relief pattern with the following settings: speed 6000, frequency 45kHz, power 90%, line spacing 0.0254, image mode set to 3D Sliced, and 150 passes. After about 6 hours of engraving, a connection error occurred. I paused for a while and resumed engraving, but the previously engraved pattern disappeared. Then, after about 1 hour, the connection error happened again. Is there any solution to this problem? And is there a way to resume the engraving from where it stopped? I would greatly appreciate your help in finding a solution. If you need further assistance with refining the details or want to send this in a specific context, feel free to ask!
@@Neo7CNCHello my dear brother, I want to make a mold of stainless steel. Do the accessories activate fiber laser? Does laser reduce the strength of steel?
I scrubbed Adobe off my computers after they released their latest terms of service giving them permission to steal your work and use it to train their A.I.
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A few clarifications. The grayscale depth map gives you a possible 256 shades of gray. 3D slice mode assigns each shade a slice. Your image may or may not contain every shade, but generally speaking, cutting the number of passes down under 256 could result in you missing some "slices" which could affect your image quality. If you didn't want as deep an image, you could increase the speed or decrease the power instead of decreasing the passes. Increasing the passes beyond 256 means that some layers may be duplicated which will also increase your depth but may affect your image quality. Knowing the beam dot size of the lens you are using is also very important. Your beam dot size obviously affects your line interval. There are beam dot size calculators on the web. Lenses that can do large areas (150x150) also have a greater focus sweet spot for deeper images, but will produce less DPI because of their larger spot size, and will take longer removing material because of their decreased energy density. Lenses that have small (70x70) area will produce higher DPI with a smaller spot size, the smaller spot energy density is also more powerful and will remove material faster, however, the smaller line interval will take more time to engrave. There is always a series of practice runs necessary for every image, but you will get better at guestimating. You CAN do coin dies simply by mirroring the image and inverting the color. I have successfully made 2 sided penny restamping dies that work under a 20 ton Harbor Freight shop press.
Thank you for the great info
Neo
Thank you for taking the time to do all of the leg work and sharing the experimental data regarding the process. You have helped me in understanding some of the nuances and variables to contend with in creating such detailed pieces with a 20W. I look forward to learning more from you as you are patient enough to explain the important items necessary to comprehend the processes to reach the desired results. Much Respect!!
Thank you! Glad to do it.
Thank you for taking the time to do this. I do not have a fiber, actually looking at the ComM B4 30W and I just started getting into affinity designer. I cannot tell you how nice it is to see someone use almost exactly what I plan to. Almost "everyone" shows off with Illustrator.
Excellent video. Tangible proof that you don’t need a 60W MOPA laser to make a great coin. This information is very rarely (if ever) shown with a modestly powered fiber machine. It is usually further obfuscated with 2d, 2.5d and 3d symantecs. I would love to have a big MOPA laser for sure but since I don’t need a big color range, there is no need. Saves thousands of dollars.
That was awesome info for 20W machines and coins! Your work here shows the value of entry level machines to add production. Great work. Thanks!!
Finally, a simple, easy to understand explanation of how this whole process works! I had no idea that 20W laser could do 15K speed, or, you could actually get deep carvings with those other settings. Many thanks for making this video (+1 sub/thumb).
This is an excellent tutorial. I can see this process being used to creat "Challenge Coins". I am about to pull the trigger on a ComMarker B4, but now after seeing what you have done here, I am thinking about getting the heavier duty 30 Watt ( or even 50 Watt) version so I could make these in fewer passes.
Thank you! Glad you liked it. I’m a firm believer in more power is better. This tech would be great for challenge coins.
Thank you is all I can say. I just bought a 100w Fiber Laser to do Cold Rolled Steel (overkill, I know) and have had no luck with anything I tried yet. But, this video will help with my getting the setting down for practice.
I have several machines and can tell you no matter the wattage, it takes a while to fine tune a project. I have pages and pages of settings for different projects. It definitely takes patience, but the result is worth every penny spent.
Geez, what a helpful tutorial.
Thank you for making this video very helpful. Question: What settings are you using for metal? Stainless?
Fascinating !! Great presentation and explanation. What was the learning curve on that Software? Good job.
Wasn’t too bad. A good quality stl file to start with helps a lot.
Quick question, why not just import the image into lightburn and use a circle to mask the image?
so if I wanted to do this with silver... I know the vacuum is taking the particles away, do you think there is a way to recover the silver? Brass, copper, not a big deal, but when you start getting into etching silver probably losing a fair amount of "coin" there. 🙂
Great video!
If you are goign to do enough silver or even gold dust that recovery could pay off you should get a specific vaccuum for each metal. There are a variety of small ones for metal recovery but they are not inexpensive. when you have enough recovered dust you smelt it back to a usable ingot. I have a cnc machine for circuit boards that has one of these vaccuums
Hello! I’m using a ComMarker B4 20W engraver with Lightburn, and recently I encountered a connection error while engraving in 3D on brass.
The issue occurred while engraving a 3D relief pattern with the following settings: speed 6000, frequency 45kHz, power 90%, line spacing 0.0254,
image mode set to 3D Sliced, and 150 passes. After about 6 hours of engraving, a connection error occurred. I paused for a while and resumed engraving, but the previously engraved pattern disappeared. Then, after about 1 hour, the connection error happened again.
Is there any solution to this problem? And is there a way to resume the engraving from where it stopped?
I would greatly appreciate your help in finding a solution.
If you need further assistance with refining the details or want to send this in a specific context, feel free to ask!
You can snap to a circle in light burn
Keep up the great work!
Thank you for watching!
interesting, someone is referring to deep engraving in its correct term: 2.5D. that is only the least reason I subbed. Great info, easy to follow.
Thanks for sharing this video Neo
So how long does a detailed coin take to engrave on this machine?
how deep could you engrave in aluminium?
how long is 100 passes?
About 11 minutes for the face in the brass.
@@Neo7CNC thanks 👍
How long did it took to engrave it?
Right at 11 minutes for the face in the video thumbnail. Thanks for watching.
Wow. This is amazing
Thanks, Its a nice machine, What is the time for 100 passes
The face on the brass coin blank took right at 11 minutes.
hi sir this machine 20w or 60w?
This one is 20w
@@Neo7CNCHello my dear brother, I want to make a mold of stainless steel. Do the accessories activate fiber laser? Does laser reduce the strength of steel?
😎 nice
So You dont need super expensive "3D" lasercthat they want to sell me? Yiu can use normal 2.5D laser
Messaged them 12 hours ago, the response I got was hi..
I scrubbed Adobe off my computers after they released their latest terms of service giving them permission to steal your work and use it to train their A.I.