Is THIS the right screw size for your subwoofer?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- When I build a custom car audio subwoofer enclosure I like to use threaded inserts as they allow me to service the subwoofer, and take it in and out of the box without degrading the quality of the hole. But what size screw do we need to use? 8-32? 10-24? 1/4-20? What type of screw do we use and how long? Let's discuss!
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Great video, can’t believe you guys are still working in inches! Most confusing method!
The video ive needed in my life!
Please recommend a sound quality sub, using sealed enclosure that rivals JL audio. Max box size that will fit in Camaro 6th generation Camaro. I can't afford JL Audio quite yet.
It's a great video as we often don't think about it till it pops up and bites you, then you're running all over the place trying to find screw's. Big props Mark, thanks for helping our industry keep moving!
Mark I love your videos. I just posted a review and recommended you for the ferrules in there. By any chance can you help me figure out exactly what size insert and screw to get for my system? It’s really confusing. 😅
Which size of screw will best fit DB SA-302D2, 12" inch sub-woofer between M5 & M6 ? Plz reply
What size wood screw would you use for a 50lb 12" sub?
Stainless doesn't mean stain/rust proof, it means stains/rusts less. Yes, it takes longer for SS to rust and when it does it's a slower process, but it certainly can/will rust.
You're right in terms of some extreme conditions, but I think Mark's point was they will never corrode while securing the sub in your car
So what you're saying is I'll be ok with my Sheetrock screws?.. 😂😮
I'm just curious:
What periodical maintenance would a subwoofer need?
I have a question i see you always used truck suv or 4 door cars but i never see you doing a really sport car like my 1991 1993 toyota mr2 can you make something for that car ?
Hey mate can you review the memphis viv14? especially for sq considering its got 7.5" vc.
Can you do a video on Powered Subs I just recently bought a Powered Subwoofer Kicker PS250 from Walmart and am having it professionally installed on Dec 7 by a company here in Brewer, Maine called Sound Shapers
Mark, you should mention the importance of having a mounting screw of proper maximum length. Have you ever experienced the threads of a long screw getting tangled up in the damping material when trying to remove the screw? You’ll only make that mistake one in your life. Ask me how I know. Hahaha
Ok. Whose done this for a kicker comp Q class 15” ???? Gimme the details.
I got your sponsors 4g amp kit. Oxygen free. Great price point.
I've just had to rip out one of the rear mounted T-nuts because the screw may have crossthreaded due to a discrepency in the hole placement or a glue remnant. It's been in and out a few times and this once just got stuck.
To then get this out I had to lift the driver at the other side and rip the stuck screw through the MDF edge between the driver hole and bolt hole.
Threaded inserts can begin to turn in place too... however at least will drill themselves out at that point and you can remove the driver but need to then repair the mess it left behind.
If you use a typical wood screw you can rotate the driver and start new holes if you need to. At some future point if you need to "renew" a hole you can fill it , predrill then use it again.
Mark, some take these videos for granted, but those who are learning do not. Using threaded fasteners and inserts is far superior than using corse thread fasteners especially in wood products. In high end cabinet grade work this is particularly prominent. You don’t see it in lower grade cabinets, but it is impressive in high end use. Being able to remove and replace components easily and quickly is essential using threaded fasteners. The use of Titebond 3 on the threads of the insert also helps in keeping the fasteners secure in the wood. Since you don’t want to damage the MDF by over torquing the inserts, using a torque wrench to yield consistent torques is essential. Once the material resists when the flange addresses the surface, the torque wrench is used to prevent overtorquing of the fastener. It works on metal materials and it also applies to wood and plastics only at lower settings. Experimenting to find the correct setting for the material is essential to achieve optimal results. You can use scrap pieces for this and this saves ruining a much more valuable piece as that would be disastrous and stupid. This may help the pros on their builds. I doubt if any beginners would go to this extreme. High end work requires greater attention to detail. It is up to the individual as to the level of involvement they are willing to go. The time at this writing is 2:13am Central US.
Well spoken. I agree. When I was 16 I didn’t know to go this far into detail. But my system also “only” cost a few hundred.
Now, over two decades later….my first system in 15 years…I’m being very detail oriented since my system is upwards of $1000, which for some is still low cost. Haha.
@@americandude3825, the money you spend matters, but the quality of the components matters most in the long run. You don’t have to go into debt to achieve great things and it is your ears that have to be satisfied in the end. The key is spending the money on high quality parts. This makes the work you do worthwhile in the long run. Few have the money to spend in their teens.
A no. 10 screw has a diameter of .190. .216 is the diameter for a no. 12 screw. You just read the number off the wrong line. Happens to me as well.
What insert would you use for mounting subs in acrylic/plexiglass?
Where did you buy the screws kits
I use these for a zv5 and zv6. Them weighing every bit of 95 pounds a piece… believe me they work.
Mark what are your thoughts on hanger bolts for mounting? 🤔
Bought a drill block (awesome tool!) for the pilot holes to get them square to the baffle
That's what i'm using on the box for a Zv6 12 you designed for me almost a year ago 😅
What size did you use I have sundown nsv 5 12s
@@OnlySubzz i had to ream some glue out from the holes on the frame did that from the backside with a 1/4" bit and i'm using 3/16" fasteners
@@markwentz8332 Thank much appreciated 🙏
Phew, I love the idea and cleanliness of using inserts, but don’t they ever pull out of the wood? That’s my only fear. Really glad you went over this. Great topic. Soooo many people swear by dry wall screws.
I use inserts inserted from the back of the subwoofer mounting surface so the flange on the insert takes some of the clamping force
I often seal my MDF enclosures with fiberglass resin to help ensure there's no water damage of the customer develops any leaks around the trunk/hatch seal. This added reason also helps "lock" the inserts into the MDF
Rarely unless you oversized the pilot hole. You can always add a little CA glue when you're driving them in if you're worried
@@bassjasinski Agree, & adding some adhesive around them will further stiffen the material, especially if it's MDF, grainy-plywood, or particle-board (though I'm not much of a fan of this last option)!
What's funny about this is that even though I love car audio it's been literal years since I genuinely installed a new system (although I do mess around with what I got). Anyways there is so much I've learned and things I've never considered precisely like those fasteners inserts. 😅😅
Just this week I was searching on eBay for those types of fastener to remount a 12" subwoofer back into its enclosure as the holes can accept larger screws. However, still haven't decided whether to go with the more expensive stainless/steel option or not!
I just wanted to say if you’re new to DIY car audio this channel is the only resource you really need, other than a good forum for any issues you may encounter. There’s a good video on everything you will ever need to know here (at least for installs).
This channel was almost solely responsible for my learning everything I needed to know to work my way up to doing a complete system in my car. From working up the nerve to pull everything apart to properly choosing and installing/tuning all equipment. Without this channel I’m not sure I’d have ended up getting into DIY car audio as much as I did; you can find everything you need to know elsewhere but this is hands down the best place for all that. Car audio is my single “favorite” hobby, without this channel I’m not sure I’d have got to the point where doing an installation is just as much fun as the end product.
Dude I love your videos. I have learned so much from you and your videos are truly my go to whenever I have a question, because you cover everything! Keep it up man, you’re amazing at what you do!
What if the manufacture recommends a beveled head?
Liked before I hit play. I already know
Same,lol
I use rivet T-nuts but I epoxy them in. I also use stainless screws with thread sealant
Question where can I get 1" long or deep inserts
Wood inserts are great if you service your subs periodically.
"T" nuts work perfectly fine and can even outperform knife thread inserts. All you have to do is install 2 small wood screws in opposite "valleys" of the T nut. For the knife thread inserts I put the smallest drop of gorilla expanding glue on the top edge of the hole. So even if the threads are crossed the insert will not come out.
As for stainless screws, if you repeatedly put in and take them out, they will work harden, gall then snap.
Thanks for the screw tip on the T nuts. I used M6 t nuts on my first box but didn't glue them in, or any on the back so when it came to mounting the subs 2 popped out when I went to line up the machine screw. Going to go with inserts and some glue on the next 2 boxes.
These won't vibrate loose
What size screws should upgraded 6.5 door speakers use?
Depends on the speaker. Follow the guide in the video to measure
thank you super useful info !
Like #1, view #1
You can check the hole space by turning the sun upside and measuring from the bottom
How do we turn the sun? It's so hot
@@JWard2 and isn't it just a big ball? And the sun has Holes wtf?
Don't forget your eye and hand protection, sunblock (especially my ginger ass) when you get that close to the sun!
Meanwhile, back at headquarters the super friends were trying to figure out how turn over the SUN?
*scratches head*
Great info useful 👍🏽
Great info as always
I learned pretty quickly that threaded inserts don't work very well in birch plywood.
I just use a wood screw through the box....but this seems better.
My cars' systems are still not done between your channel, 5-Star, and a few others really pushing me to make nice, professional installs.
Learning day by day
Top notch as always!
woot!
I always have a hard time figuring what size drill but to use for the inserts
Usually the little baggies they come in identify what drill bit size to use 👍
@CarAudioFabrication maybe I'm not getting mine the same place as you are but mine never do
If you know the size of the threaded inserts you might be able to find a recommendation by google search but if not I will usually see which drill bit I have is closest, or just barely smaller than, the diameter of the insert (without counting the threads/teeth) and use that
got my first subwoofer in my first car ever recently :D. got myself a sundown SA15v2 (2ohm), in a 80L box with 1650W Hammer tech power supply. what should i use as speakers to compensate for the heavier bass? im currently looking at the focal IS165toy plugNplay..... cuz i have a toyota lol :D
My wife always telling me you used the wrong size.. she keeps yelling at least put in the right hole it's don't Cummings loose over time.. like your FORD pickup truck... it's shaking all the time... please get Dodge Cummings pickup truck.. she always right the Dodge Cummings pickup truck doesn't shaking only vibration from under the seat she loves it every time we're driving on highway ahhhhhh
Is this a dirty joke or a true story? Lol
@@tylerkrug7719
It's true stories
It’s Cummins….absolutely no G in the name.
Could you please contact me I have a custom box I'm looking to get done
it works the other way around
@@markwentz8332 looking at the name, probably an ESL but you're right