It's is covered in the 2019 manual. The second layer is the finish tape. We only specify a minimum width finish tape. In double cover we are using a 72" wide finish tape.
Yes, that is correct. On experimental you could also use 104 on both layers to save weight. On an airplane where you need ultimate strength you could use two layers of 102 like Mike Patey is doing. That is overkill for most applications though.
It depends. It can be done before the second layer. However, it is also possible to brush Ekobond through both layers. Just make sure they both get saturated. We have found that due to the quality of the fabric we are receiving from both Superflite and Ceconite that it may be necessary to glue the perimeter of the second layer and shrink it before gluing to the first layer to get the wrinkles out. In that scenario it's best if the bottom layer is not sealed with glue so the top layer does not try to stick to in when ironing. One ironed you can brush Ekobond through both layers.
I might try doing the double cover for my Ultimate 10-200 biplane. Hoping to start covering this winter. I'm assuming 102 followed by 104 covering would be proper for this aircraft (essentially like a Pitts S1)? I'm assuming the eko-fill would only get sprayed on once you get the lighter 104 fabric on?
I think you would be very pleased with it on that aircraft. I would recommend 102/104 for strength if you are doing aerobatics. You are correct, the EkoFill only goes on after the second layer of fabric is glued down.
@@kelvinrempel3 It looks like I missed this question earlier, sorry about that! If the fabric is wrinkle free you can glue it on unshrunk. If it has wrinkles as it often does, you may want to glue the perimeter and shrink to 250 before brushing glue through it.
I got to say…I would not use this Glue on a high G aerobatic like a Pitts. I got a Model 12 Pitts in my shop right now that a guy covered the wings with this same process and let me tell you..a 5 years old could have pulled two layers apart EASY. It didn’t take much for me to pull it apart. The inspection rings just popped right off. I am recovering the plane in AirTech and there is no pulling this stuff lose.
Whoever covered that airplane did something wrong. One error we see sometimes is when people wipe off the glue, they wipe aggressively and pull the majority of the glue out of the fabric. The correct way to wipe just enough so that any brush strokes are removed. The weave needs to stay saturated. Another error some people make is to thin the glue when gluing fabric joints. That is not allowed. In any case, something was done incorrectly. We have far higher performance aircraft with far more years with zero issues. Used properly, our glue is the best in the industry.
Hey, John! I didn't know you did YT videos! So cool!
Looks like the manual is still 2019, when should we expect a manual update to include this method?
It's is covered in the 2019 manual. The second layer is the finish tape. We only specify a minimum width finish tape. In double cover we are using a 72" wide finish tape.
Hi John ? So your first layer is 102 .Do you use 104 for the second layer ?
Yes, that is correct. On experimental you could also use 104 on both layers to save weight. On an airplane where you need ultimate strength you could use two layers of 102 like Mike Patey is doing. That is overkill for most applications though.
Love the overkill
Is there a manual on this
Two layers of 102 ...just Dacron?
Yep
So you fill the weave of the initial covering with Ekobond before putting the second layer on?
It depends. It can be done before the second layer. However, it is also possible to brush Ekobond through both layers. Just make sure they both get saturated. We have found that due to the quality of the fabric we are receiving from both Superflite and Ceconite that it may be necessary to glue the perimeter of the second layer and shrink it before gluing to the first layer to get the wrinkles out. In that scenario it's best if the bottom layer is not sealed with glue so the top layer does not try to stick to in when ironing. One ironed you can brush Ekobond through both layers.
I might try doing the double cover for my Ultimate 10-200 biplane. Hoping to start covering this winter. I'm assuming 102 followed by 104 covering would be proper for this aircraft (essentially like a Pitts S1)? I'm assuming the eko-fill would only get sprayed on once you get the lighter 104 fabric on?
I think you would be very pleased with it on that aircraft. I would recommend 102/104 for strength if you are doing aerobatics. You are correct, the EkoFill only goes on after the second layer of fabric is glued down.
@@StewartSystems does the second layer of fabric need to be shrunk with an iron or is it just glued down with the Stewarts EcoBond?
@@kelvinrempel3 It looks like I missed this question earlier, sorry about that! If the fabric is wrinkle free you can glue it on unshrunk. If it has wrinkles as it often does, you may want to glue the perimeter and shrink to 250 before brushing glue through it.
Do You cover both overside and underside of the wing?
Yes, it has a double layer on both top and bottom. We do it on control surfaces as well, and even the fuselage.
You feel like this is a very light/strong solution? would you recommend this for a Just Aircraft Highlander?
Yes, definitely light and strong. On a Highlander I would use two layers of 104. We can't do it on certified, but you certainly could on that.
How about a kitfox sti
Love the product
What happened to the iapplyufly girl?
I got to say…I would not use this Glue on a high G aerobatic like a Pitts. I got a Model 12 Pitts in my shop right now that a guy covered the wings with this same process and let me tell you..a 5 years old could have pulled two layers apart EASY. It didn’t take much for me to pull it apart. The inspection rings just popped right off. I am recovering the plane in AirTech and there is no pulling this stuff lose.
Whoever covered that airplane did something wrong. One error we see sometimes is when people wipe off the glue, they wipe aggressively and pull the majority of the glue out of the fabric. The correct way to wipe just enough so that any brush strokes are removed. The weave needs to stay saturated. Another error some people make is to thin the glue when gluing fabric joints. That is not allowed. In any case, something was done incorrectly. We have far higher performance aircraft with far more years with zero issues. Used properly, our glue is the best in the industry.