HOW-TO: 2010-2015 Toyota Prius ICE Water Pump Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ส.ค. 2023
- Are you struggling with a persistent loss of power, hybrid system warning and/or P261B DTC being thrown on your 2010-2015 Toyota Prius? Well in this video, I show you how to fix it for a fraction of the cost of a dealership and less than 2 hours of your time.
Enjoy the video! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I appreciate you playing The sound of the pump operating while you were doing Purge process. I don't think I've seen that in another video. I'll be tackling this job the next couple days so I appreciate all the information I can get. Well done!
Incredible video, very educated
Thank you. You exactly described my problem and the solution I settled for after wasting so much time
And money. Wish I had seen this before going to the dealer and wasting thousands replacing the intake manifold and the catalytic converter only to see the same hybrid battery warning coupled with check engine and overheating indicator. Went back to the dealer who says “now since the last time you came you have a new code for the water pump”….got me super angry why they didn’t begin with the water pump but instead sent me to spend so much on things that weren’t broken.
Well, it sounds like there wasn’t a code for the water pump when you initially took it in for diagnostics. It’s very possible you had multiple problems happening. But who knows, some dealers are gonna screw you any way they can. Others are doing what’s best for the customer - the trick is to weed out the good dealers/shops from the bad.
Of the dozen or so videos about this job this one is the best. Job went exactly the same as yours. 👍🏻
Charging 800+ to do this is robbery 😡
Thank you for the kind words! I’m glad the repair went smoothly for you.
Excellent video. Really helped to see how to run with airboxes out so i can access hoses and pump while running.
2 months ago i replaced head gasket. All ok for a while, but a couple weeks ago, I got temp light and P0117 (? From memory) and replaced temp sensor. Soon after getting intermittant temp light and loss of fluid from the reservoir cap/vent. Replaced cap. Seemed ok and wife said no lights after long trip. Hard to believe as I got light whenever i was at 65 mph for a few minutes the day after she came back... on blinking, solid, blinking, then off. I dont think she saw the light if it was on for short time .
Realized i hadn't purged air when i replaced the sensor, so i refilled and ran in maintenance mode with cap off. 41 deg F and fan came on once in about 20 minutes, no coolant level change.
On test drive on same route i got temp light on same place where 4th instance the day before... seemed to last longer without overheating.
Wonder if it's thermostat (new with head gasket) or pump... want to run with air boxes off so i can check flow. I dont have scan tool for anything but basic codes... no engine light since sensor replace.
Wondering if I'm missing something or just not getting all air out of the system... thoughts?
I don't normally reply to videos, but this one was really thorough and well done. Thanks.
Do you have access to a vacuum filler for your cooling system? That’s the best way I’ve found to make sure your cooling system is bled and filled with no air bubbles. Other option is to put the car on jack stands in the front so the fill is the highest part of the cooling system as air wants to travel to the highest point in a trapped system. Could be a thermostat, could be an intermittent electric water pump issue like in my video.
Thanks, you LEGEND!
Thank you for your video❤
Thanks for watching!
High pitched whine from mine and sloshing sound from behind dash when I start engine first. Not losing coolant but can't afford a mechanic so thinking it's the pump. What were the issues with this car before? Cheers.
Sounds like you’ve got air in your cooling system, specifically the heater core. Only symptom with mine is it would randomly go into limp mode and say it was overheating when it wasn’t. Cycle the key and clear the code and you’d be fine for hours to weeks before it happened again.
Is it necessary to bleed the coolant if I'm just inspecting the pump?
I want to get a better idea on if I should replace the whole pump or just the rotor, but don't want to bleed twice if it's not necessary.
Happen to know?
If you remove the pump it’ll allow air into the cooling system and it’ll need to be bled. From what I’ve seen, I haven’t seen just the impeller part of the water pump for sale anywhere. I’d recommend just replacing the entire pump as the electric motor and internal seals can fail. If you replace just the impeller, you’re putting in the same amount of work and you’ll probably be there again next year having to replace the whole pump anyway.
just replace the pump with a Toyota/Aisin one. Don't buy the cheap pumps, they will fail in a week
Could you please list the all the tools you used? And how to toque them to spec?
All the tools I used are shown and mentioned in the video. As far as torque specs go, I used my built in torque wrench in my elbow. (I don’t know what the factory torque spec is, but I’ve been working on cars so long I know when torqued is torqued.) I’m sure you can look it up online. My guess would be 15-20 lb/ft torque which would be around 25Nm
I didn't really bother draining the coolant, I just unbolted the pump and had a big drain pan ready
That works too.
Why not show video of taking off the hard to reach bolts? That would be helpful.
I showed where the bolts were in the video.
He’s talking about how to actually remove them. that’s really the hardest part imo. I was actually thinking of making a video to show how I did that in my case. Some of these bolts are not very easy to reach with tools. Pretty tight spaces for your hands and/or tools at the same time. Different people will solve this problem differently. I removed the passenger tire and the mud covers to reach the bottom bolt. I used an extension for the 10mm and 12 mm sockets. Don’t know yet if this will solve my car issue. But I feel like it might.
In my Auris 2 hybrid (same drivetrain as the Prius), I took off the right front wheel and plastic wheel well, to be able to easy acces the bolts. Easy job to do. Torque settings: 25 Nm for the two long bolts, 20 Nm for the three short ones. Remember that it saves you about 1.000 Euro's, if done by yourself! A little struggling is well paid ;)
The hardest part of the job is reaching and loosening those nuts, especially the one at the bottom, because there is not enough room to move. You didn't show how you did that part.
I tried using a wrench, but it didn't work. Then I bought an electric ratchet with a long extension, like I saw in the videos. Guess what? That thing is way too weak to loosen them. For the love of God, can someone give me a solution?
Just used a 1/4” drive hand ratchet and socket. I can’t remember if they were 8mm or 10mm heads but you can get the bottom one off easily enough.
@@EnginesandElbowGrease They are 12mm. Did you use a long socket ?
@@user-pf8jj1uu1f nope, just the 12mm short socket, 3” extension, and 3/8” ratchet as seen in the video
I also had a difficult time unscrewing the bolts. Proper sized tools are the key. Also, for some reason, taking out the water pump itself was challenging. It didn't come out easily as in the video.