@@moparlover55Should be grounded to the pin on the switch that's the ground pin if possible. Most of the pins are small so trying to use a multi meters pins red + positive black - negative it's hard not to touch other small pins . What might make it easier on some ignition switches is to either buy the correct plug for the switch or get one from the same vehicle from a boneyard & cut the plug off & use the wires on that plug to touch the meters pins to them while moving the switch to see if the switch is bad or not . Another thing you could try is using small butt connector crimps for wiring and slip one over each pin then touch the multi meters pins to them providing you can find small enough butt connectors. I just had to change my ignition switch for my 09 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 because it wouldn't crank over with the new battery and I went & bought a aftermarket ignition switch & that lasted for about 3 weeks then it started to turn hard on the key and eventually when trying to start it it would crank over even after letting off of the key but the engine would not fire. So I go get another ignition switch & put that in & it starts & runs just fine but now my radio & heater control has no power so I'm thinking I got another new defective ignition switch. Someone I know that's in the same car club I'm in was telling me he was having the same issues I am having on a vehicle he was working on fixing it for someone & decided to buy 5 switches and sure enough one of the switches remedied the problem because it wasn't defective but the others were so he took the others back as defective and got his money back . Some people are by passing the starter switch & are using a push button switch wired up to start the engine - just use the key left in the on position so the engine gets spark to run but the problem is on a lot of newer vehicles the ignition switch also powers other things besides the ignition like certain modules and other stuff because the wiring system is complex with multiple computers and modules that run all kinds of stuff. On my truck I have some modules that shut completely off once the key is turned off while other modules slowly turn off & other modules turn off then come back to power back up for a bit then shut down again & this can happen multiple times through the day or night which can cause a parasitic voltage drain or drop in voltage enough if the module is bad that can cause a dead battery . Alternators can do the same thing if the diod goes bad because the diod acts like a switch only letting the voltage current to flow in 1 direction and if the diod goes bad it allows the voltage to drain the battery down until the battery is dead . I just had this happen on my old 82 Chevrolet K10 truck after putting in a new alternator back in 2018 and I would go out to start it and the battery was dead and thankfully when I bought that alternator new back then I bought it with a limited lifetime warranty so I got it replaced for free other than me having to do the work to take the old one off & installing the new one & it's fixed now and I've been using it to go get the parts needed for my 09 Chevrolet Silverado to try and fix it now lol . Funny thing is that old truck would start when it was - 20+ below out in the winter but the new truck wouldn't because the battery is much smaller than what the old truck uses plus the stupid auto on headlights come on while trying to crank it over to start it doesn't help at all because it's sucking power from the battery to the headlights which reduces cranking power to the starter .
2002 camry, 290k miles. Cut off while driving, no crank no start starter does not click, battery at full charge when car sut off and still is. Could it be ignition switch?. Dash lights and headlights on. No blown fuses, no visibly burnt relays. Any thoughts?
I have this EXACT problem. No click, no crank, but all electronics work and the battery is NEW and reading 12.4v at rest. Why do people keep saying alternator, when a car with a bad alternator can run briefly on the battery alone? This cannot be an alternator problem unless I completely misunderstand how a car works... I cannot find a straight answer to this anywhere.
@@sammysokosammysoko Common Causes Of The No Crank No Start No Click Issue: Faulty battery: A dead or weak battery is often the primary culprit behind this issue. It could be caused by a faulty battery, corroded terminals, or a drained battery due to leaving lights or accessories on for an extended period. Ignition switch failure: The ignition switch serves as the gateway for the electrical current to reach the starter motor. If the switch is faulty or damaged, it can prevent the engine from cranking. Starter motor issues: A malfunctioning starter motor can cause a no crank situation. It could be due to a worn-out solenoid, faulty electrical connections, or a burned-out motor. Faulty starter relay: The starter relay is responsible for transmitting electrical power from the battery to the starter motor. If it fails, the engine won’t crank. Loose or damaged wiring: Loose, damaged, or corroded wiring connections can disrupt the flow of electricity to the starter motor and prevent it from engaging.
@@acolytes777 yeah or the alternator. An electrician told me the alternator may not be working properly and is causing these issues where the battery doesn't charge enough and other electrical issues like the gauges light and gages not working the other day when I turned on the car. So I'm going to do test on alternator first
@@tchrisou812 Hello Friend. Well.. this problem went away but then came back recently 2 months later. The backstory: When i was in orlando a few years ago and was broke and had a bad starter and bad distributor and cables, i manged to scrunge up some cash to pay a homeless guy who by the grace of God had starter installation experience because his dad did that for a living when the homelss man was a kid. I didnt have money for all the repairs, the wires were lose because another mobile mech took it appart and didn't finish the job because he was charging me way more than he let on. So long story short, the homeless man jerry rigged it with jumper cables, long enough for me to drive back to Miami and get my old job back there and fix it. But the guy who fixed it another mobile mech didn't do a good job, he put some kind of clamp in the wire that eventually would give out ( cables burned and middle clamp was causing resistance according to my current mechanic. Turns out, not only did the no crank no start issue go away, but the issue with starting the car after it warmed up (2nd start once it gets warmed after i turned it off and on again, caused it to barely start and struggle. So that issue also went away. Another issue, the third was the gauge that shows the battery/alternator boltage thats supposed to be at 14 or over was fluctuating after driving it for a little while between 10 and 12 looked like it was almost half way lower than it was supposed to. That issue also went away and the fourth issue that went away was the flickering dash pannel lights that were dimmer than usual for a year also regained their power. One little cable caused that many issues. Thankfully problem solved :)
Where does the black wire from the multimeter go to when checking the current from the ignition switch ?? And shouldn't the battery be unhooked when doing this ?
@Top5AutoRepairs Gotcha ! But, couldn't you also hook up the multi meter to the crank fuse & see if there's voltage when turning the ignition to crank. And if there's no voltage reading, bad switch, right ??
Hey so my truck starts then stalls immediately, no fuss, just dies. I have plenty of fuel, timing is right, Spark should be strong, no vacuum leaks, but it started brief grinding when trying to start but failing to do so. What's confusing is it would run on occasion until put in gear or the steering wheel gets turned at all. Any load at all aside from revving to 2k rpm. It currently will not run for more than about 2 seconds so hard to diagnose
@acolytes777 hey appreciate the reply but I blew $5k trying to get it running again. I sold it shortly after that comment. But I did reach out to the guy who bought. Apparently timing was off. And a bad starter. Old starter went bad, and new one went bad after a couple starts. And even though myself, my uncle and my grandfather worked on it, the timing was still off haha
I recently changed my alternator and battery and the car sometimes doesn't start, this morning I put it in on position and looked like the whole car died, but when I went to crank to start the whole thing lit up and started, would it be the ignition switch?
What if I can't get the engine to crank at the start position? My radio and lights come on fine, but no engine crank. I don't have an orginal key and I have a copy. I'm wondering if that may be the problem or the ignition switch.
@@jamesrayson4478if it clicks.. isn't that the relay clinking which tells you the ignition switch is working. If you didn't hear the click, would mean the ignition switch or relay is bad.
It's very tough turning my keys..almost always when my car is elevated from the front (hill). I have to repeatedly keep turning it until my car turns on. It's so annoying.
@marvinmurakami8828 I figured it out. It's a loose piece of plastic on the left side of the steering wheel. I tied it back and it works now. It's getting loose again though. I usually have to stick a screw driver to push the plastic back in
Do you happen to know much about Yamaha Rhinos, me an a guy from my church bought to use around the church and on camping trips but it's having issues. He replaced the battery, I replaced the starter relay, and the ignition switch was replaced a year ago, give or take a few months. I've subbed as watching auto repair videos, especially ones that are actually helpful and not just a summary, just make me feel like I'm productive in my downtime. So thanks for the videos.
In the Haynes manual I notice they say I need to disconnect the battery when working around the steering column to disarm the airbags. Should I try to test the switch for continuity without power in that case?
Hey!!! I know you. You've worked on my cars before haha. Do you remember the buick with the bad ac. Took forever to take it off then the part didn't fit haha
One off tools? It's very important to have tools. The more, the better. You'll never regret buying tools, and You can always sell them when You no longer use them or get better ones.
I absolutely love ur helpful and knowledgeable videos. Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom ❤
So the 6 DC volts at the end when cranking meant bad switch?
Exactly! He never said anything about that.
@b-dub6865, where does he have the black wire running to from the multimeter ?
@@moparlover55Should be grounded to the pin on the switch that's the ground pin if possible. Most of the pins are small so trying to use a multi meters pins red + positive black - negative it's hard not to touch other small pins . What might make it easier on some ignition switches is to either buy the correct plug for the switch or get one from the same vehicle from a boneyard & cut the plug off & use the wires on that plug to touch the meters pins to them while moving the switch to see if the switch is bad or not . Another thing you could try is using small butt connector crimps for wiring and slip one over each pin then touch the multi meters pins to them providing you can find small enough butt connectors. I just had to change my ignition switch for my 09 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 because it wouldn't crank over with the new battery and I went & bought a aftermarket ignition switch & that lasted for about 3 weeks then it started to turn hard on the key and eventually when trying to start it it would crank over even after letting off of the key but the engine would not fire. So I go get another ignition switch & put that in & it starts & runs just fine but now my radio & heater control has no power so I'm thinking I got another new defective ignition switch. Someone I know that's in the same car club I'm in was telling me he was having the same issues I am having on a vehicle he was working on fixing it for someone & decided to buy 5 switches and sure enough one of the switches remedied the problem because it wasn't defective but the others were so he took the others back as defective and got his money back . Some people are by passing the starter switch & are using a push button switch wired up to start the engine - just use the key left in the on position so the engine gets spark to run but the problem is on a lot of newer vehicles the ignition switch also powers other things besides the ignition like certain modules and other stuff because the wiring system is complex with multiple computers and modules that run all kinds of stuff. On my truck I have some modules that shut completely off once the key is turned off while other modules slowly turn off & other modules turn off then come back to power back up for a bit then shut down again & this can happen multiple times through the day or night which can cause a parasitic voltage drain or drop in voltage enough if the module is bad that can cause a dead battery . Alternators can do the same thing if the diod goes bad because the diod acts like a switch only letting the voltage current to flow in 1 direction and if the diod goes bad it allows the voltage to drain the battery down until the battery is dead . I just had this happen on my old 82 Chevrolet K10 truck after putting in a new alternator back in 2018 and I would go out to start it and the battery was dead and thankfully when I bought that alternator new back then I bought it with a limited lifetime warranty so I got it replaced for free other than me having to do the work to take the old one off & installing the new one & it's fixed now and I've been using it to go get the parts needed for my 09 Chevrolet Silverado to try and fix it now lol . Funny thing is that old truck would start when it was - 20+ below out in the winter but the new truck wouldn't because the battery is much smaller than what the old truck uses plus the stupid auto on headlights come on while trying to crank it over to start it doesn't help at all because it's sucking power from the battery to the headlights which reduces cranking power to the starter .
2002 camry, 290k miles. Cut off while driving, no crank no start starter does not click, battery at full charge when car sut off and still is. Could it be ignition switch?. Dash lights and headlights on. No blown fuses, no visibly burnt relays. Any thoughts?
Alternator...there's only a couple reasons why a car shuts off WHILE DRIVING. It's either the alternator..or it's fuel related.
@@ChristopherLee1002 Could an alternator cause a no crank no start?
I have this EXACT problem. No click, no crank, but all electronics work and the battery is NEW and reading 12.4v at rest.
Why do people keep saying alternator, when a car with a bad alternator can run briefly on the battery alone? This cannot be an alternator problem unless I completely misunderstand how a car works...
I cannot find a straight answer to this anywhere.
@@sammysokosammysoko Common Causes Of The No Crank No Start No Click Issue:
Faulty battery: A dead or weak battery is often the primary culprit behind this issue. It could be caused by a faulty battery, corroded terminals, or a drained battery due to leaving lights or accessories on for an extended period.
Ignition switch failure: The ignition switch serves as the gateway for the electrical current to reach the starter motor. If the switch is faulty or damaged, it can prevent the engine from cranking.
Starter motor issues: A malfunctioning starter motor can cause a no crank situation. It could be due to a worn-out solenoid, faulty electrical connections, or a burned-out motor.
Faulty starter relay: The starter relay is responsible for transmitting electrical power from the battery to the starter motor. If it fails, the engine won’t crank.
Loose or damaged wiring: Loose, damaged, or corroded wiring connections can disrupt the flow of electricity to the starter motor and prevent it from engaging.
@@sammysokosammysoko neither can I. Every response I have got about this hasnt worked.
How to start your KILLDOZER ignition switch
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
im thinking its my starter now because i have wipers radio fuel pump buzzing lights ect. have you got a video.?
You earned a sub with this one. Thanks man.
I have no power in my car at all not even the lock switch works but I tested my battery and it tested good so idk what to do
I get a click but no crank no start. If its not the starter can it still be this issue?(ignition switch)
Yes
@@acolytes777 yeah or the alternator. An electrician told me the alternator may not be working properly and is causing these issues where the battery doesn't charge enough and other electrical issues like the gauges light and gages not working the other day when I turned on the car. So I'm going to do test on alternator first
@@DarkCode What was the problem?
@@tchrisou812 Hello Friend. Well.. this problem went away but then came back recently 2 months later. The backstory: When i was in orlando a few years ago and was broke and had a bad starter and bad distributor and cables, i manged to scrunge up some cash to pay a homeless guy who by the grace of God had starter installation experience because his dad did that for a living when the homelss man was a kid. I didnt have money for all the repairs, the wires were lose because another mobile mech took it appart and didn't finish the job because he was charging me way more than he let on. So long story short, the homeless man jerry rigged it with jumper cables, long enough for me to drive back to Miami and get my old job back there and fix it. But the guy who fixed it another mobile mech didn't do a good job, he put some kind of clamp in the wire that eventually would give out ( cables burned and middle clamp was causing resistance according to my current mechanic. Turns out, not only did the no crank no start issue go away, but the issue with starting the car after it warmed up (2nd start once it gets warmed after i turned it off and on again, caused it to barely start and struggle. So that issue also went away. Another issue, the third was the gauge that shows the battery/alternator boltage thats supposed to be at 14 or over was fluctuating after driving it for a little while between 10 and 12 looked like it was almost half way lower than it was supposed to. That issue also went away and the fourth issue that went away was the flickering dash pannel lights that were dimmer than usual for a year also regained their power. One little cable caused that many issues. Thankfully problem solved :)
I rate jobs on a MF scale... if I MF more than 4 times or throw shit.... A Professional NEEDS to be doing it!
Where does the black wire from the multimeter go to when checking the current from the ignition switch ?? And shouldn't the battery be unhooked when doing this ?
Black goes to ground and battery connection is not disconnected
@Top5AutoRepairs Gotcha ! But, couldn't you also hook up the multi meter to the crank fuse & see if there's voltage when turning the ignition to crank. And if there's no voltage reading, bad switch, right ??
You didn't show where you put the Multimeter Probes. Can't replicate a test if you don't show everything.
Code P 2534 ignition on start switch circuit low voltage does that mean the ignition switch is bad
Why my ignition is so hot? My car crank but no start
Hey so my truck starts then stalls immediately, no fuss, just dies. I have plenty of fuel, timing is right, Spark should be strong, no vacuum leaks, but it started brief grinding when trying to start but failing to do so. What's confusing is it would run on occasion until put in gear or the steering wheel gets turned at all. Any load at all aside from revving to 2k rpm.
It currently will not run for more than about 2 seconds so hard to diagnose
You might be having issues with your alternator
@acolytes777 hey appreciate the reply but I blew $5k trying to get it running again. I sold it shortly after that comment. But I did reach out to the guy who bought. Apparently timing was off. And a bad starter. Old starter went bad, and new one went bad after a couple starts. And even though myself, my uncle and my grandfather worked on it, the timing was still off haha
I recently changed my alternator and battery and the car sometimes doesn't start, this morning I put it in on position and looked like the whole car died, but when I went to crank to start the whole thing lit up and started, would it be the ignition switch?
I have a weak and intermittent spark in most coil packs and no spark on no. 4 coil. That's not timing; is it? I have a 1995 Maxima(6 cylinders).
Liked your video but could you please tell where did you hook the other end of the light tester or how and where you connected the multimeter?
What if I can't get the engine to crank at the start position? My radio and lights come on fine, but no engine crank. I don't have an orginal key and I have a copy. I'm wondering if that may be the problem or the ignition switch.
Same. You ever figure it out?
A car without any crank just clicks when battery is good, in most cases is either egnition switch or starter motor
@@jamesrayson4478if it clicks.. isn't that the relay clinking which tells you the ignition switch is working. If you didn't hear the click, would mean the ignition switch or relay is bad.
I’m having the same issue
@@Lizzyreeder my problem turned out to be broken wire that leads to ignition switch...12v
It's very tough turning my keys..almost always when my car is elevated from the front (hill). I have to repeatedly keep turning it until my car turns on. It's so annoying.
Try turning the steering wheel right and left slightly while at the same time turning the key.
@marvinmurakami8828 I figured it out. It's a loose piece of plastic on the left side of the steering wheel. I tied it back and it works now. It's getting loose again though. I usually have to stick a screw driver to push the plastic back in
What if your key is damaged and the green key light flashes
Do you happen to know much about Yamaha Rhinos, me an a guy from my church bought to use around the church and on camping trips but it's having issues. He replaced the battery, I replaced the starter relay, and the ignition switch was replaced a year ago, give or take a few months. I've subbed as watching auto repair videos, especially ones that are actually helpful and not just a summary, just make me feel like I'm productive in my downtime. So thanks for the videos.
In the Haynes manual I notice they say I need to disconnect the battery when working around the steering column to disarm the airbags. Should I try to test the switch for continuity without power in that case?
Hey!!! I know you. You've worked on my cars before haha. Do you remember the buick with the bad ac. Took forever to take it off then the part didn't fit haha
I remember now it was the blower motor
Thsnks...
So informative mostly the videos and actual.
New subscriber! Nice video. I’m going to test this out this weekend! My truck has a no crank no start after an engine swap.
Did it work?
Thank you very and very nice
👍
Can I send u a video?
I have headlights, interior lights and horn. No accessories, no fuel pump, no crank 😢
Did you ever figure it out I’m have the same issue rn
@@MiyaneKeile yes, my ignition switch went bad
All those one off tools is EXACTLY why it pays to take it to a trusted mechanic!
One off tools? It's very important to have tools. The more, the better. You'll never regret buying tools, and You can always sell them when You no longer use them or get better ones.
Very helpful! Thank you for your simplicity!
Short, informative and straight to the point. Thank you sir!