Wow just in case anyone is wondering, you should never ever be rubbing your winch cable against the frame of the trailer like that while winching a vehicle up. Not unless you have some kind of heavy duty roller there. This is a great way to snap the winch cable and have it whip your face in half.
@@Grasscentral4705 The simplest answer here would be to place another cinder block under the trailer jack. He put one under there and explains that he did it to prevent the cable from rubbing worse. Another couple inches would probably do the trick.
@@Grasscentral4705 Now, if you get the car halfway loaded and find that the undercarriage is about to rub at the rear edge of the ramp because the angle is too steep (happens more when you have a long vehicle with small tires or underinflated tires), then stop winching, back it off a tad, then place blocks in front of the front tires. That way when you resume winching it will raise the front end of the vehicle which is usually enough to provide a better "breakaway" angle under and allow it to clear the trailer's edge without snagging.
@@allmycarsisbroke oh okay that makes a lot of sense, i really appreciate the response man. Is there a certain kind of block that will work best with a skid steer? Feels like a stupid question, but figure its better safe than sorry. Really not trying to damage my truck
I use a 24v X1 winch rated at 2000 lbs and it doesn't strain nearly as much as yours. I've used it to load from a 2002 Explorer 4x4 to a Range Rover HSC. That's straight pulling....no pullies.
Bolt some extra metal in those ramps and use the center of your ramps...and a 20 dollar snatch block will double the pulling power of the winch. I carry 2 cheap jack stands for the rear corners of my trailer to stabilize it
I want to start a toe truck / car hauling business. I have a dodge Cummins, in thinking about getting a 20feet gooseneck trailer. So all i need is a wench and straps?
No, you also need to be properly licensed to do that kind of work, and to be insured to do that kind of work. Otherwise you're going to be damaging a lot of peoples' vehicles because you don't know what you're doing, and then your insurance will deny coverage because you weren't covered to operate as a business.
Not to discourage you from showing very decent emergency scenario type tech to show how to winch a car onto a trailer with no dedicated power installed for a winch, very good adaptation! However, I just wanted to caution anyone watching that whenever a winch is in use that has steel braided wire it is critical to pre-load the wire, always try to maintain center of cable length weight, with anything of weight (ie backpack, tow strap, even a front floor mat) draped over the cable in the event of a cable failure. Steel cable stores energy so standing next to it, or anywhere within a 360* angle of half the length of the wire, could end in severe injury or death. You were just outside the 20% safe zone of rate winch capacity so good on you, but I cringed watching you stand on the trailer deck while operating the winch. I do a lot of off road wheeling and extreme vehicle recovery and I always use a dead weight on my line. Just my recommendation ( and every reputable winch manufacturers safety tip as well). But again, good job showing simply tech solution (electrical supply) for a very simple recovery effort that can save people hundreds in towing $$'s. Be safe y'all!
@@watajob His message contains good advice but he's a little difficult to understand. What he's saying is just get any weight you can and place it so that gravity and that weight is pulling down somewhere around the middle of the extended section of cable. In this case that might be a little tricky because the cable is so low to the wood deck, but for example if you have a plank of wood a few feet long, you could hang some d-rings/shackles from the middle of the cable. The goal is just to make it so there's some directional force on the cable so that if it snaps, it doesn't snap back in a wild direction and hit you or someone else in the face. In situations where you have more clearance between the cable and the ground you can just drape a backpack or a bag of tools or something over the middle of the cable and let it hang there.
Exactly the way I load them. I loaded a 10000# one ton dually diesel yesterday with my 4500# winch and it straight line pulled it on.
Where do you attach the ca le to the car?
Wow just in case anyone is wondering, you should never ever be rubbing your winch cable against the frame of the trailer like that while winching a vehicle up. Not unless you have some kind of heavy duty roller there. This is a great way to snap the winch cable and have it whip your face in half.
Ya man fr. How do you not let it rub though?
@@Grasscentral4705 The simplest answer here would be to place another cinder block under the trailer jack. He put one under there and explains that he did it to prevent the cable from rubbing worse. Another couple inches would probably do the trick.
@@Grasscentral4705 Now, if you get the car halfway loaded and find that the undercarriage is about to rub at the rear edge of the ramp because the angle is too steep (happens more when you have a long vehicle with small tires or underinflated tires), then stop winching, back it off a tad, then place blocks in front of the front tires. That way when you resume winching it will raise the front end of the vehicle which is usually enough to provide a better "breakaway" angle under and allow it to clear the trailer's edge without snagging.
@@allmycarsisbroke oh okay that makes a lot of sense, i really appreciate the response man. Is there a certain kind of block that will work best with a skid steer? Feels like a stupid question, but figure its better safe than sorry. Really not trying to damage my truck
Oh also do you think the cinder block is necessary?@@allmycarsisbroke
Where did your hook up on the car?
I just bought a trailer with the same exact winch but I can’t figure out how to operate it. What’s the brand? I need to look up a manual.
I use a 24v X1 winch rated at 2000 lbs and it doesn't strain nearly as much as yours. I've used it to load from a 2002 Explorer 4x4 to a Range Rover HSC. That's straight pulling....no pullies.
What makes you think his winch is straining?
Bolt some extra metal in those ramps and use the center of your ramps...and a 20 dollar snatch block will double the pulling power of the winch. I carry 2 cheap jack stands for the rear corners of my trailer to stabilize it
The problem is how would u unload it????
Leave the trailer connected to the pickup, raise the trailer up a bit, then run the winch in reverse.
I want to start a toe truck / car hauling business. I have a dodge Cummins, in thinking about getting a 20feet gooseneck trailer. So all i need is a wench and straps?
No, you also need to be properly licensed to do that kind of work, and to be insured to do that kind of work. Otherwise you're going to be damaging a lot of peoples' vehicles because you don't know what you're doing, and then your insurance will deny coverage because you weren't covered to operate as a business.
Not to discourage you from showing very decent emergency scenario type tech to show how to winch a car onto a trailer with no dedicated power installed for a winch, very good adaptation! However, I just wanted to caution anyone watching that whenever a winch is in use that has steel braided wire it is critical to pre-load the wire, always try to maintain center of cable length weight, with anything of weight (ie backpack, tow strap, even a front floor mat) draped over the cable in the event of a cable failure. Steel cable stores energy so standing next to it, or anywhere within a 360* angle of half the length of the wire, could end in severe injury or death. You were just outside the 20% safe zone of rate winch capacity so good on you, but I cringed watching you stand on the trailer deck while operating the winch. I do a lot of off road wheeling and extreme vehicle recovery and I always use a dead weight on my line. Just my recommendation ( and every reputable winch manufacturers safety tip as well). But again, good job showing simply tech solution (electrical supply) for a very simple recovery effort that can save people hundreds in towing $$'s. Be safe y'all!
Where would the weight object be placed?
@@watajob His message contains good advice but he's a little difficult to understand. What he's saying is just get any weight you can and place it so that gravity and that weight is pulling down somewhere around the middle of the extended section of cable. In this case that might be a little tricky because the cable is so low to the wood deck, but for example if you have a plank of wood a few feet long, you could hang some d-rings/shackles from the middle of the cable.
The goal is just to make it so there's some directional force on the cable so that if it snaps, it doesn't snap back in a wild direction and hit you or someone else in the face.
In situations where you have more clearance between the cable and the ground you can just drape a backpack or a bag of tools or something over the middle of the cable and let it hang there.
What about unloading the car from the trailer? Do you push it off? How do you control the descent?
Good question I need to know that too
Amazing
do you do this as a bussiness
Nice. Did u build the trailer yourself?
nice flatbed
Serious inquiry,now how to get it off.
Scrap yards unload them with machines like a big ass fork lift, or an excavator with a claw.
I thought Toyota's lasted forever.....at least that is what everyone says. I'm j/k...just being a smart a#$.
O
awesome!
O