I've done exactly this, on my bike and together with the rough intake and smooth exhaust, plus increasing the throttle plate diameter (with a lathe, from 26mm to 28), and a Teflon thicker gasket perfectly matched. I have no idea what power or flow it has now, but the engine now it's capable to rev up to 11500 rpm, from 10500 previously. The intake valve wasn't perpendicular to the seat tho, so I've got it done professionally and they told me I've done a wonderful job!
Everyday i learn something new about racing engine work, this seems extremely sketchy but if it works it works. Also title says simple, but this seems pretty advanced
Another great vid...thank you! One takeaway from this vid is how disappointing the castings are on these heads! I would have been quite upset to have unboxed these after laying down some hard-earned cash! Your upgrades are an absolute must!
Great video brother! 👍 And about the hat causing baldness, it doesn't cause it but it helps it by boiling the roots of the hair and also not letting them breathe fresh air. Im a scalp Dr.
Thanks for recommending CHA! Their prices are a lot better that anything I've seen out there, and they look like quality products! Merry Christmas, Eric! And Merry Christmas, everyone! o7
Love your explanations. What I'd love to see is, you actually porting and making the changes and not just the before/after. Maybe you have one and I just haven't seen it, but it'd be really cool to see the changes taking place as you port them. Then we could see the different angles you're doing it from and maybe get a feel for how much pressure you're putting on it and the speed of the bit. Just a thought, Merry Christmas!
Hats don't cause baldness. I very rarely wore a hat throughout my life. I started balding at 21. My old boss wore a hat every day of his life and has a thick mop on top of his head. He's 25 years older than me. I'm 38.
Eric, I typically use a 1.8 factor for flat tappet medium performance engines for HP per cfm. In a mild performance engine I would hope for something over 1.2. That would make these heads worth around 36 HP. Like you said though, only the dyno will tell. Great video, thanks for the tips.
Something I like to do is shape out Carbide tools to go at the end of a scraper and do the blending of the chamber near the valve seat by hand so there's no chance that I can harm it
Kickass content again, Eric 😎. 6 CFM @ 500 4 CFM @ 600 means nothing when your gaining 20% at lifts below that! Huge! Prices to expect per valve back cut is that 30-60# you mentioned?
Doesn’t doing this lower compression? Also if that is true is it worth doing to remove and smooth ledge? Do you think it’s pointless if it’s just a mild street engine? The reason I ask is I did some bowl blending and port matching with a burr and smoothed out any casting flash on some iron heads that I read had a decent flow rate. I bumped the compression with pistons but didn’t want to go backwards after doing so. Thanks
Is that an "accidents happen" in the top left corner @ 5:00? 😆 Eric only kidding....personally, I knock down all the sharp edges then lay down some 3M YELLOW painter's tape to the deck surface, intake runner inlet, and exhaust runner outlets. Non-ferrous bits grab at anything and.....ugh. some of the things I've I've had to pay for. Btw thanks for the CHA info
Do you find if you use flap wheels that you just go through too many consumables? Definitely a more forgiving method to than a bur but for sure more appropriate for a diy person than a pro
I was wondering. Don't you change the displacement of the cylinder head when you do all that grinding? How do you keep each one balanced with the others?
When you port and polish a head like that you remove a lot metal from the head and you loss compression so you would also need to skim the head to bring up the compression again assuming there's room for the valve to open and close without hitting the pistons otherwise you have a nice smooth and fast reving engine but maybe less power
If you flow more air into the cylinder due to blending and the back-cut then you don't lose power. If you flow more exhaust out of the cylinder you then can fill it with more charge. It's a win-win.
@peterdarr7267 it's a win win to port and polish the inlets and outlet your gaining but also losing on compression, compression is more important otherwise you have fast reving smooth engine but not as powerful
When you grind any material on the head below the valves that reduces compression and incresses capacity cc, you can shape the area around the valves to flow better but you would still need to skim the head ideally
The heart shape combustion chamber is the most efficient design for a over head 4 stroke engine patented by harry weslake in the 50s for the British motor car company it was used on the BMC A series mini engine and the B series MGB engine and how perfected by General Motors on their Ls and Lt engines
On a 06 5.9 Cummins how much power do you think port matching both the exhaust side to manifold and the manifold to turbo is worth? I took out a ton of metal. About a quarter inch, and flareback about an inch and a half. Due to how the intake shelf is I could not do any port smoothing of any sort. I am just a noob with a bit of common sense. This truck has a ton of upgrades, but curious how the free ones helped. If its apart I am gonna do all I can before putting it back.
Can I put valves large enough to just about touch like these are, If I have plenty of room (kinda plenty) on my 7.3 Powerstroke diesel heads if the valves are 1.675” and where the seats sit there is 1.94” across? There is even more room to cut out for larger custom seats, even a middle hump that looks horrifically clogging for air to pass during overlap, that is another .12”, so theoretically it looks very easy to reach 2” OD seats if machining can cut through the integrated valve seats (intake valves are integrated but looks like the exhaust valve seat can be pressed out) I have found it very difficult finding anyone with in depth knowledge on 7.3 diesel heads, or anyone that has any videos about anything to do with helical ports in these types of diesel heads. For reference I chose to stay with a Stage 1 Cam for my dedicated tow rig but here are the numbers: intake lift .430” exhaust lift .433” intake duration 186/exhaust duration 195 Lobe Centerline 107. I Hope that is informative. I changed the name of my previous channel to Coast to Coast Diesel Enthusiasts about a week ago, and started with a few rough and unrehearsed videos I fumble through but I’m trying to help the diesel community to understand there is more room for efficiency and flow, especially compressed air from the turbo and being a boosted induction application, that’s left on the table when folks only increase fuel from injector size, and that sorta goes into outer space levels of fuel real quick but also brings excessive heat with it. What are your thoughts and do you have any ideas about how to improve the 2 valve design with a stock flow that is very dismal compared to Cummins design. I like Powerstroke and Cummins both and respect both platforms, although I do not know much about Duramax engines yet, I am willing to learn about their platform as well as I develop my experience further into the diesel design and engineering. Although the RPM ranges are much lower, Boost plays a crucial role in the low end torque development and I am confident I can Pioneer a formula to enhance these products performance and even help drop EGTs during load with more airflow through the heads. Any suggestions or recommendations would certainly be appreciated. Thank You in Advance if you have taken the time to read this and have a quick moment for an experienced response and recommendations.
So after you open up the combustion chamber you need to mill the head down to get your compression back I've read you can mill 80 thousands off a small block head before the intake has to be cut is that true ?
I would like to see you take a factory gm 990 head and see what kind of flow numbers you could get I wander could they be ported bigger valves 2.250-1.940 valves would feed a 605 bbc budget build
Any interest in doing a set of Big Block Chevy heads from Blueprint Engines? They're supposedly 119 cc Chamber, 358 cc Intake runners 125 cc Exhaust runners with 2.300 in. intake valves and 1.880 in. Exhaust valves. I'm running a hydraulic roller w/ .647 in. Intake and Exhaust 258 degree intake and 266 degree exhaust @ .050 with a 112 degree lobe separation. Dyno says its making 742 hp @ 5,850rpm after that it dives off a cliff though. They're on a 598 cu. in. BBC right now, but if I had to do it all over I think I'd go down to a 555-560 cu. in. Just to have more area on the sides of those pistons. That bottom ring is just about where the pin is on those H-Beam rods with a 6.480 length, and a 4.500 stroke. Its a standard deck height block with a 4.600 bore. It sounded great at the time when I bought it, but now I've learned so much more over the last two and a half years, only nice part is now they've lowered the HP by about 20-25, and when I asked them what they'd changed, they told me they didn't have records of what they used in 2020! Can you believe that? Anyhow, if you have any interest, about how much would it cost to get those heads worked over, and how long of a back log are you running right now? Its almost the end of the season here in Wisconsin, so with winter, unfortunately, right around the corner, it'll be time to pull some things apart and prepare for next year. Thank you in advance.
Changing the chamber size does not this change the compression ratio and do you make the chamber sizes the same and skim the head to correct the compression ratio?
Erice - EPSON ET-3750 Printer. Print quality is excellent, but you'll like the cost of ink (savings). Got mine at Costco, probably get it on Amazon too.
You aren't unshrouding the valves, your just making it look good. Try running the valve out .100 at a time and measure the distance between the valve and edge of the chamber. How much clearance at what point depends on a lot of things. From the little of the work I can see you've done you have left some flow on the table.
The flowbench would disagree with you. The small amount of flow gained from the small areas you could unshroud would be a loss of horsepower from the decrease in compression ratio.
This is what I did to my 862 ls heads. Have you flowed them before and do you think they picked up much? I couldn't find anyone local with a flow bench I would have loved to do a before and after.
Of course, yep. You'd want to make sure the top cut of the valve job blended nicely into your work though, so you might still need to come back and lightly touch up the blend w abrasive rolls.
Hats causing baldness is an old wives' tale - its all genetics. You have a bad habit of mumbling at the end of your sentences/statements - your voice trails off. FYI
As a fellow in the "about bald club" I attest my thinning is 100% genetic. Yes I have hair envy lol! Thanks for another great video Eric.
Great video. Thank you for sharing all of your knowledge and wisdom with us DIY guys.
I've done exactly this, on my bike and together with the rough intake and smooth exhaust, plus increasing the throttle plate diameter (with a lathe, from 26mm to 28), and a Teflon thicker gasket perfectly matched.
I have no idea what power or flow it has now, but the engine now it's capable to rev up to 11500 rpm, from 10500 previously.
The intake valve wasn't perpendicular to the seat tho, so I've got it done professionally and they told me I've done a wonderful job!
Everyday i learn something new about racing engine work, this seems extremely sketchy but if it works it works. Also title says simple, but this seems pretty advanced
In the world of cylinder heads, this is simple, rule of thumb type stuff.
Another great vid...thank you! One takeaway from this vid is how disappointing the castings are on these heads! I would have been quite upset to have unboxed these after laying down some hard-earned cash! Your upgrades are an absolute must!
Great video brother! 👍 And about the hat causing baldness, it doesn't cause it but it helps it by boiling the roots of the hair and also not letting them breathe fresh air. Im a scalp Dr.
You could always use a cheap or used headgasket to keep from scratching up the gasket surface if you are real worried
Thanks for recommending CHA! Their prices are a lot better that anything I've seen out there, and they look like quality products!
Merry Christmas, Eric! And Merry Christmas, everyone! o7
You can get rid of the margin on the valve by using a drill press and a cartridge roll on a die grinder if you’re a DIY type .
Pretty amazing gains just for something that simple 💪 that's why you're the expert
Other thing to keep in mind is the valve hits max lift once, all the others it hits twice.
yes
Love your explanations. What I'd love to see is, you actually porting and making the changes and not just the before/after. Maybe you have one and I just haven't seen it, but it'd be really cool to see the changes taking place as you port them. Then we could see the different angles you're doing it from and maybe get a feel for how much pressure you're putting on it and the speed of the bit.
Just a thought, Merry Christmas!
Awesome content as usual looking forward to implementing these concepts on our project Ranger and MGB then getting on a flow bench.
Hats don't cause baldness. I very rarely wore a hat throughout my life. I started balding at 21. My old boss wore a hat every day of his life and has a thick mop on top of his head. He's 25 years older than me. I'm 38.
It's all in the genetics.
When I wear a hat my hair falls out a lot more
@@danielleyva2235 unless you have razor blades concealed in the brim, it's all in your head.
A hat will just pull the already loose hair out faster, not causing the baldness
That was worth more than I would have thought. Thanks for the knowledge
Eric, I typically use a 1.8 factor for flat tappet medium performance engines for HP per cfm. In a mild performance engine I would hope for something over 1.2. That would make these heads worth around 36 HP. Like you said though, only the dyno will tell. Great video, thanks for the tips.
Something I like to do is shape out Carbide tools to go at the end of a scraper and do the blending of the chamber near the valve seat by hand so there's no chance that I can harm it
Hello Eric thanks for the videos. Doing these chamber mods what will the chamber size go up to? Thanks
Kickass content again, Eric 😎.
6 CFM @ 500
4 CFM @ 600 means nothing when your gaining 20% at lifts below that!
Huge!
Prices to expect per valve back cut is that 30-60# you mentioned?
But it’s pretty lol,seriously though biggest pro iv seen is that it resists carbon buildup.
Thanks Eric! Great video!
Doesn’t doing this lower compression? Also if that is true is it worth doing to remove and smooth ledge? Do you think it’s pointless if it’s just a mild street engine? The reason I ask is I did some bowl blending and port matching with a burr and smoothed out any casting flash on some iron heads that I read had a decent flow rate. I bumped the compression with pistons but didn’t want to go backwards after doing so. Thanks
Is that an "accidents happen" in the top left corner @ 5:00?
😆
Eric only kidding....personally, I knock down all the sharp edges then lay down some 3M YELLOW painter's tape to the deck surface, intake runner inlet, and exhaust runner outlets. Non-ferrous bits grab at anything and.....ugh. some of the things I've I've had to pay for.
Btw thanks for the CHA info
Do you find if you use flap wheels that you just go through too many consumables? Definitely a more forgiving method to than a bur but for sure more appropriate for a diy person than a pro
I was wondering. Don't you change the displacement of the cylinder head when you do all that grinding? How do you keep each one balanced with the others?
Number for lady that has burs
Aren't you increasing the chamber size too?
Dramatically
@WeingartnerRacing do you also work on four valve heads?
Isn't it kind of tacky for a cylinder head company to cnc port the intake runners yet leave that huge hump?
Hope the day comes sooner and you get a dyno. Very curious on when cfm translates to hp gain and when it does not.
Would this same concept work on my 781 cast iron BBC heads?
When you port and polish a head like that you remove a lot metal from the head and you loss compression so you would also need to skim the head to bring up the compression again assuming there's room for the valve to open and close without hitting the pistons otherwise you have a nice smooth and fast reving engine but maybe less power
If you flow more air into the cylinder due to blending and the back-cut then you don't lose power.
If you flow more exhaust out of the cylinder you then can fill it with more charge. It's a win-win.
@peterdarr7267 it's a win win to port and polish the inlets and outlet your gaining but also losing on compression, compression is more important otherwise you have fast reving smooth engine but not as powerful
When you grind any material on the head below the valves that reduces compression and incresses capacity cc, you can shape the area around the valves to flow better but you would still need to skim the head ideally
The heart shape combustion chamber is the most efficient design for a over head 4 stroke engine patented by harry weslake in the 50s for the British motor car company it was used on the BMC A series mini engine and the B series MGB engine and how perfected by General Motors on their Ls and Lt engines
i ve did this on my 4T stroke mopet head, does it improve the compression?
On a 06 5.9 Cummins how much power do you think port matching both the exhaust side to manifold and the manifold to turbo is worth? I took out a ton of metal. About a quarter inch, and flareback about an inch and a half. Due to how the intake shelf is I could not do any port smoothing of any sort.
I am just a noob with a bit of common sense. This truck has a ton of upgrades, but curious how the free ones helped. If its apart I am gonna do all I can before putting it back.
How much was the chamber worth vs the throat blend?
FYI: Cylinder Head Abrasives contact information at time stamp 7:04.
Can I put valves large enough to just about touch like these are, If I have plenty of room (kinda plenty) on my 7.3 Powerstroke diesel heads if the valves are 1.675” and where the seats sit there is 1.94” across? There is even more room to cut out for larger custom seats, even a middle hump that looks horrifically clogging for air to pass during overlap, that is another .12”, so theoretically it looks very easy to reach 2” OD seats if machining can cut through the integrated valve seats (intake valves are integrated but looks like the exhaust valve seat can be pressed out) I have found it very difficult finding anyone with in depth knowledge on 7.3 diesel heads, or anyone that has any videos about anything to do with helical ports in these types of diesel heads. For reference I chose to stay with a Stage 1 Cam for my dedicated tow rig but here are the numbers: intake lift .430” exhaust lift .433” intake duration 186/exhaust duration 195 Lobe Centerline 107. I Hope that is informative. I changed the name of my previous channel to Coast to Coast Diesel Enthusiasts about a week ago, and started with a few rough and unrehearsed videos I fumble through but I’m trying to help the diesel community to understand there is more room for efficiency and flow, especially compressed air from the turbo and being a boosted induction application, that’s left on the table when folks only increase fuel from injector size, and that sorta goes into outer space levels of fuel real quick but also brings excessive heat with it. What are your thoughts and do you have any ideas about how to improve the 2 valve design with a stock flow that is very dismal compared to Cummins design. I like Powerstroke and Cummins both and respect both platforms, although I do not know much about Duramax engines yet, I am willing to learn about their platform as well as I develop my experience further into the diesel design and engineering. Although the RPM ranges are much lower, Boost plays a crucial role in the low end torque development and I am confident I can Pioneer a formula to enhance these products performance and even help drop EGTs during load with more airflow through the heads. Any suggestions or recommendations would certainly be appreciated. Thank You in Advance if you have taken the time to read this and have a quick moment for an experienced response and recommendations.
So after you open up the combustion chamber you need to mill the head down to get your compression back I've read you can mill 80 thousands off a small block head before the intake has to be cut is that true ?
On a flat mill it depends on which intake.
Post the link for the website on cylinder head abrasives.
the one that I found is out of Los Angeles California, I'm not sure if that's the right one?
🇦🇬
Thanks so much for the info.
🙇🏾♂️
Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
I would like to see you take a factory gm 990 head and see what kind of flow numbers you could get I wander could they be ported bigger valves 2.250-1.940 valves would feed a 605 bbc budget build
Great video, thank you for the simple explanations
Here's a fun fact. Baldness is hereditary not caused by wearing hats😅.
Thanks for this one buddy.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Very well explained, I might add.
Awesome video
Great vid as usual.. You ever do any work using flow balls??
Any interest in doing a set of Big Block Chevy heads from Blueprint Engines? They're supposedly 119 cc Chamber, 358 cc Intake runners 125 cc Exhaust runners with 2.300 in. intake valves and 1.880 in. Exhaust valves. I'm running a hydraulic roller w/ .647 in. Intake and Exhaust 258 degree intake and 266 degree exhaust @ .050 with a 112 degree lobe separation. Dyno says its making 742 hp @ 5,850rpm after that it dives off a cliff though. They're on a 598 cu. in. BBC right now, but if I had to do it all over I think I'd go down to a 555-560 cu. in. Just to have more area on the sides of those pistons. That bottom ring is just about where the pin is on those H-Beam rods with a 6.480 length, and a 4.500 stroke. Its a standard deck height block with a 4.600 bore. It sounded great at the time when I bought it, but now I've learned so much more over the last two and a half years, only nice part is now they've lowered the HP by about 20-25, and when I asked them what they'd changed, they told me they didn't have records of what they used in 2020! Can you believe that? Anyhow, if you have any interest, about how much would it cost to get those heads worked over, and how long of a back log are you running right now? Its almost the end of the season here in Wisconsin, so with winter, unfortunately, right around the corner, it'll be time to pull some things apart and prepare for next year.
Thank you in advance.
I don’t mind if you have the time.
@@WeingartnerRacing Living here in Wisconsin between the end of October, until the middle of April, all we have is time up here! Lol
Cool Information!
Thanks
How much would a job like that cost on a set of brodix heads. Labor it self.
Excellent informative video......thank you for doing it.
Do you offer porting for atv & motorcycle heads as well?
um the valve trick was cool, why dont you just lay an old metal gasket in to prevent gouging?!
Are you interested in doing a honda k20 type s head?
no
Changing the chamber size does not this change the compression ratio and do you make the chamber sizes the same and skim the head to correct the compression ratio?
If you increase chamber volume you lower compression ratio.
Erice - EPSON ET-3750 Printer. Print quality is excellent, but you'll like the cost of ink (savings). Got mine at Costco, probably get it on Amazon too.
The cheapest place for cartridge rolls is Amazon or Harbor Fright.
Awesome mate
Awesome video man
You aren't unshrouding the valves, your just making it look good. Try running the valve out .100 at a time and measure the distance between the valve and edge of the chamber. How much clearance at what point depends on a lot of things. From the little of the work I can see you've done you have left some flow on the table.
The flowbench would disagree with you. The small amount of flow gained from the small areas you could unshroud would be a loss of horsepower from the decrease in compression ratio.
@@WeingartnerRacing I just need to ask...is the valve spacing changed on these Brodix? If you mentioned it and I missed that info, I apologize.
Eric Your learning 😂
Eric, what's your thoughts on flow velocity quality on this head?
Also, what is min cross section area?
This is what I did to my 862 ls heads. Have you flowed them before and do you think they picked up much? I couldn't find anyone local with a flow bench I would have loved to do a before and after.
Lot easier to do your porting then finish up your valve job with 60 45 30 angle
You have to blend in the valve job so you have to do it first.
Balding causes hats.
Could you do this then get a valve job?
Of course, yep. You'd want to make sure the top cut of the valve job blended nicely into your work though, so you might still need to come back and lightly touch up the blend w abrasive rolls.
I don't like that carbide near that head
Baldness causes hats.
Testestorone does
👍🏼💪🏼
I thought I was the only weirdo that thinks hats make you bald
I'm not touching my AFR heads lol
Excellent work. Would be cool as hell if you had a dyno.
Hopefully soon.
It only seems that way because guys starting wearing hats because they where losing it.
Subscribed
120👍's up EW thanks
Hats causing baldness is an old wives' tale - its all genetics. You have a bad habit of mumbling at the end of your sentences/statements - your voice trails off. FYI