[MTB maintenance] Oil change attempt on a cable-pull hydraulic brake caliper
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มิ.ย. 2021
- I have tried to completely change old brake oil with new one on a cable-pull or cable-actuated hydraulic brake caliper. You have likely seen the same calipers with different brand names. This type of calipers are recommended only as upgrade from V-brakes and should not be considered as cheap alternative to a proper hydraulic brake system with dedicated calipers and levers.
If you know an easier way to completely flush old brake oil on this type of calipers, then let me know in the comment section of this video. Thanks. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
You made this way more complicated than it actually needs to be
Wow, amazing informative video! I liked it how you did not just show the tutorial, but even made an example about why its difficult to bleed this system. Great work!
Glad you find this video informative :)
Thanks a lot for watching!
But do you find these superior to just cable actuated brakes? Thank you for the detailed video and your explanations and diagrams go to a extra level
Well, yes these brakes are far better than mechanical disc brake calipers like BB7 both in stopping power and lever touch. These are far less noisy too. But these are still not even close to fully hydraulic disc brake systems.
wouldnt it just be easier to use a regular hydraulic bleeding kit. just open the bleeder and fill screw and flush with the kit.
If there are two ports to the oil chamber behind the piston and the oil chamber is linearly connected to the oil line, it would be easy to flush with the bleeding kit, yes. But this caliper's oil chamber behind the piston has only one opening, so the bleeding kit would leave the oil in the chamber mostly unchanged. And we want to change oil in this very chamber when flushing.
@MindDesignFactory i disagree with these added steps/using a needle or opening side panel, you can flush using the pistons action itself, i service mine inspecting every 6 months and fully replacing oil every 1000 miles just to be safe and use a regular bleeding kit, i pump the piston as i bleed and it empties and refills the chamber it takes about x2 the amount of oil then a regular bleed because you dont get lines and a linear system as with the handlebar hydralic brake piston chambered ones. The workaround i use is i repeat it until you see the oil is all the same color pumping and depressing the pistons manually, never had any issues and i have almost 6k miles so far on my ebike. Maybe its my bias against needles lol but i found this to be a pretty over the top method.
Very informative video! I was contemplating getting a cable pull hydraulic, but seeing maintenance could be so tedious, I should just get those full on hydraulic ones instead. Thank you! Cheers!
Hi, this video is meant for those who already own these kind of brake calipers. If you are looking for a new hydraulic brake set, then go for fully hydraulic brakes by any means :)
Thanks for watching!
@@MindDesignFactory yes, I understand. Thank you very much!
Can we use dot 4 or 5.1 instead mineral oil in these?
Well, mineral oil and DOT are completely different in chemical composition and characteristics. They are not interchangeable in the strictest sense. Especially DOT must not be used in the mineral oil specific braking system, because it may cause damage to seals and other parts, resulting in brake system disorder.
I genuinely do not see what he is trying to show. Those callipers are easy to bleed or replace the fluid with the correct bleed kit. It is, without doubt, possible to bleed them without the correct kit but for a few pounds, the job is made so much more easy.
So, then...which is "the correct kit" for this pull cable hydraulic caliper?
I would like to know because I need to do this.
you can't get hydraulic brake levers with a motor cutoff switch for ebikes without spending almost $200... which is why this style of caliper was created-- to allow hydraulic braking using the ubiquitous common mechanical ebike brakes levers with built in motor cutoff switches
I've seen videos of good results using a standard bleed / fill method involving pumping the plunger with the lever arm to expel oil/air mixtur but this is good information if I need to go deep, thank you.
I think that this cable-pull hydraulic caliper is not meant to be serviced at user end in the first place. You can fill the caliper with oil but it is almost impossible to completely flush it. Normal bleeding methods appear to work, but even after a seemingly successful bleeding, dirty old oil still remains in the chamber behind the piston. You can confirm it when you open the red cap on the side of the caliper.
Thanks for watching!