Thanks for posting this clinic! I was surprised to see Jeremy going back and forth with the steel roto brush. I always thought even roto brushes should go only from tip to tail. I can see my roto brushes do have one directional lean and I'm worried that if I brush back from tail to tip, I may do some damage to the base due to it. Any thoughts please?
Unless you move the drill back faster than it is spinning (unlikely), the bristles are still moving tip to tail. Now, if you get the drill rotation direction backwards with a metal brush, your skis are going to have a very bad day....
It always tests well for us. It is a very good option for the Birkie. It does very well in the 10-25F range. Below 10F, straight green waxes can do better and above 25F we cover it with a liquid wax like Rex G21, G11 or Swix TS7.
I learned a lot about ski tools for ski structures, thanks.
Thanks for this. My iron technique is way different than Jeremy's. Hope my bases aren't too burned. Powders are not that intimidating now.
Thanks for posting this clinic! I was surprised to see Jeremy going back and forth with the steel roto brush. I always thought even roto brushes should go only from tip to tail. I can see my roto brushes do have one directional lean and I'm worried that if I brush back from tail to tip, I may do some damage to the base due to it. Any thoughts please?
Unless you move the drill back faster than it is spinning (unlikely), the bristles are still moving tip to tail. Now, if you get the drill rotation direction backwards with a metal brush, your skis are going to have a very bad day....
@@ryanjcampbell Makes sense! Thanks for the reply!
Under what conditions do you like to use the marathon pro powder? Do you expect it to work well for birkie this year?
It always tests well for us. It is a very good option for the Birkie. It does very well in the 10-25F range. Below 10F, straight green waxes can do better and above 25F we cover it with a liquid wax like Rex G21, G11 or Swix TS7.