Awesome video! Have a few questions. 1. CJ pony says the hardware for the dynacorn bracket is for 65-66. Does this matter if my motor is from a 67? 2. I’m new to all this stuff, how difficult was it to connect the wire from the breaker? Can I use any wire and where exactly do I connect it?
That bracket should be 65-68. You should be good from my understanding. Running the new harness and wiring was really simple. I would recommend getting all the pre-built harnesses. That made it really simple. Looks really original that way also.
Thanks for this - it's really helpful. Is there a reason you didn't route the hoses behind the bracing panel for the seat and have them coming out of one of the larger holes closer to the cylinders?
How do you bleed the lines? Do you just fill up the motor with atf and run the top both ways (up and down) or is there some time of bleeder as there is with brakes or a clutch?
The first one. Add atf and run the pump. Keep adding until you do not see or hear air in the lines. End with filling the pump to the bottom of the fill port.
Sorry about that. I do have a leak in the passenger cylinder. That means there will be some new content coming out that I will definitely show how to do that. Soon hopefully...
You could pull the pins on the pistons to release the top, but I would recommend replacing the pump/motor unit. Those pins are pain to get back in. Without pistons connected, the top is heavy in both directions. Definitely use two people and watch your fingers.
6:27 *Motor
Awesome video! Have a few questions.
1. CJ pony says the hardware for the dynacorn bracket is for 65-66. Does this matter if my motor is from a 67?
2. I’m new to all this stuff, how difficult was it to connect the wire from the breaker? Can I use any wire and where exactly do I connect it?
That bracket should be 65-68. You should be good from my understanding. Running the new harness and wiring was really simple. I would recommend getting all the pre-built harnesses. That made it really simple. Looks really original that way also.
Thanks for this - it's really helpful. Is there a reason you didn't route the hoses behind the bracing panel for the seat and have them coming out of one of the larger holes closer to the cylinders?
Nope. I routed it the way I understood it be from the factory, that may not be correct though. This is the way I saw others do it as well.
How do you bleed the lines? Do you just fill up the motor with atf and run the top both ways (up and down) or is there some time of bleeder as there is with brakes or a clutch?
The first one. Add atf and run the pump. Keep adding until you do not see or hear air in the lines. End with filling the pump to the bottom of the fill port.
@@WhitetailGarage awesome, thank you for the reply!
You didn't show how the cylinders went back in, and that's the only reason I tuned in.
Sorry about that. I do have a leak in the passenger cylinder. That means there will be some new content coming out that I will definitely show how to do that. Soon hopefully...
@WhitetailGarage , I'm done, wasn't as hard as I thought, just came back to me.
How to get a power top back if the motor goes bad?
You could pull the pins on the pistons to release the top, but I would recommend replacing the pump/motor unit. Those pins are pain to get back in. Without pistons connected, the top is heavy in both directions. Definitely use two people and watch your fingers.