How an Evinrude gearbox works - outboard gear shifting - forward / reverse
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- --Part 2: a closer look at the gears - • How an Evinrude gearbo...
-update: I recently replaced the control cables on both of my motors, thus having to tune them. I noticed that if you have a very tough, or loud sounding connection when changing gears, this may be due to overly high rpm at idle. To fix this turn the control cable adjustment so that at idle, when switching forward / reverse its smoother. You do not want the motor switching at too high speed as it can the damage gears. You will need to find the exact balance, if idle is too slow the engine may die when shifting into gear.
This gearbox is from a 1967 Johnson 33HP Seahorse motor. That may seem old, however this part of the engine has pretty much not changed since; at least in medium to small HP motors.
General information on how outboard motor gearboxes work
--The lower unit houses the gearcase / gearbox / transmission / propeller on most engines.
Clear, concise, no music, no video or audio effects, reasonably steady camera, and best of all, no selfi-cam. Thank you.
What, you think professional TV shows with that stuff in it are "crap"? What would have been "wrong" with the narrator showing himself? What's the matter with a little music if it doesn't get in the way of anything? What would be so "bad" about a video effect if it helped illustrate the point? Duhhhhrrr...
@@HelloKittyFanMan it would waste my time
@@KekusMagnus: No it wouldn't. Music at a low volume under the narration doesn't take extra time to listen to. If there was an occasional dissolve or other type of transition from one setup or scene to the next, any little bit of extra time to do that over a cut is negligible. And if there was a 3D graphic of this gearbox setup that served as an exploded view or a cutaway, etc., that could only make it even more clear. But besides that, you're not the person I was asking, so I'm really looking to see what the OP says in response.
💯
GREAT TEACHER!
This video was so well done that I feel like an expert on something I have never seen or heard of before until now.
What you describe makes total sense and after reading through comments you have helped several.
Nicely done! Subbed because this was so very informative!
I almost (ALMOST) feel like I could explain it to someone else now, and as the old saying goes, that's when you really understand something: when you can teach the concept to another person.
I installed a 1988 40 hp Johnson myself, cables, everything. I had forward drive issues and was going to tear into. Thank God I watched your video. You were 100% right. I heard a clunk and it wouldn't engage, but reverse was fine. I ended up adjusting the cables over the course of a few trial runs and now it's perfect. Thank you man!!!
I was an OMC/Evinrude/Johnson Master Technician. You're right that people don't understand this. But you really didn't explain half of it. First, the "clutch" as you call it has teeth ("dogs") that interlock with teeth on the gears to lock one or the other gear to the center splined shaft. And second that failure to engage those fully (bad adjustment) and with some firmness creates that "clunking" sound going into gear and can wear the dogs until their mating edges become rounded, and then the engine easily jumps OUT of gear. Glad you added "part 2" so people can see the faces of the clutch and gears!
Thanks for adding additional info; yes "Part 2" goes more in-depth and I have a few other videos I recommend checking out showing the driveshaft / props haft / etc. very clearly.
Looks like you need a prop repair just sayin
Is that all you got out of this, was noticing the broken prop used for a demonstration? Well, you need a brain repair.
The video is great, I had no idea how the gear shift works. Without music and without noise, work that has cleared many of us who are here of many doubts. Thank you !!
this image brings back many memories. My father had a side business doing outboard motor repair during the 60's through 80's. I was in grade school when I was taught how to "Split the Lower Unit", and replace the rubber tubular gasket and rear seal. It is a good idea to check the condition of the lower unit lube when considering a used outboard or even inboard I/O Drive. if fishing line gets wrapped around the prop shaft between the seal and prop it can destroy the seal, also early OMC "Split Case" lower units can have dried out gasket between the upper and lower halves. In either case the lower unit will have water penetration turning the heavy weight lube to a "Thin Milky Consistency". Unfortunately if kept in this condition for an extended period of time the internal bearings, gears, drive shaft, shift fork, and clutch cog will become rusted, sometimes seriously pitting the metal, and locking the lower unit in neutral/forward or reverse. it is always advisable to service the lower unit by checking the condition of the lube, draining by removing the upper and lower drain plugs allowing all the old lube to drain. Then using the recommended lower unit lube fill from the lower drain hole, until it comes up to/out the top drain hole. Then install the top plug with the tube or pump hose nozzle of the lube still in the lower hole, and quickly remove it and install the lower plug Installing the upper plug should create a "Vacuum" as the lube tries to drain when following up by installing the lower plug. There are also nylon or sometimes rubber washers or O-Rings on these plugs and should also be replaced when servicing. The key is to not allow any water to enter the lower unit which can cause serious damage.
This appears to be a very old (1960's) OMC (Outboard Marine Company: Johnson/Evinrude) "Spit-case" lower unit. Later Outboard motors and Inboard I/O Drives are "One Piece" and not split. The internals must be serviced/repaired by removing the prop and rear bearing carrier. Mercury/Mariner Outboard Motors and Outdrives require specialized tools to disassemble/reassemble. Also Bearing preloads must be set to specific values.
Motors used seasonally or in salt water should be flushed with a hose/fresh water and a "cupped headset" type attachment or bolt-on water intake plate on some models. To "winterize" this should be accomplished and the motor ran until all the gas is run out of the carb(s) there is also a "Spray Fogger" which can be sprayed in the throat(s) of the carbs during this process. Also fuel stabilizer should be added during this process to protect the fuel system from corrosion. Run the motor with the fuel line disconnected until all the fuel is ran through. Also either add the proper amount for fuel stabilizer to the tank, or drain completely if it will be unused for a longer period of time. This 'Prevention" can save on serious fuel system issues later on when the motor is returned to operation.
Another common problem is the "Water Pump Impeller". a rubber bladed/spoked component which is contained in the Water Pump Housing at the top of the lower unit, driven by the drive shaft. it is "Offset" in the housing creating voids between the blades which cycle from larger to small during rotation causing the water to be pressurized and pumped up through the powerhead or inboard motor. these become dried and brittle especially in stored in hot environments, and degrade over time. If the motor no longer pumps cooling water upwards the the Impeller blades are worn, or may even be separated completely. These require a tight seal within the Impeller Housing (Sides/Top & Bottom), to operate properly. Also if they are removed to check the condition and reused then they MUST BE REINSTALLED the same orientation as they came out of prior or the blades will be bent in the opposite direction causing complete failure when they are turned by the drive shaft. They must all bend in the same direction as determined by the powerheads driveshaft direction.
On motors of this vintage and even newer, generally to replace them a new "Impeller Kit" needs to be purchased which generally included the impeller, top and bottom plates, and a "Half Moon" or other type of key to drive the Impeller with the driveshaft. Generically you must access the shift rod coupler (typically located on the upper part of the lower unit leg below the powerhead, and behind an access plate on the side) This connection couples the Shift Lever to the Shift Rod going down to the lower unit. then all the bolts are removed which attach the Lower Unit to The Leg. Generally the drive shaft is splined and will come out of the bottom of the Crank Shaft in the Power Head. With all the lower unit bolts removed, Shift Rod Coupler disconnected the Lower unit should "Drop" down and can be removed. Typically the outboard motor must be tilted up to allow clearance to get the Drive Shaft and Shift Rod out of the Leg Housing. Once removed the Impeller Housing should be visible on the top of the Lower Unit allowing removal of the bolts securing the Water Pump/Impeller Housing and the housing itself. The new "Impeller Kit" can then be installed replacing the worn or damaged components. The Impeller should be lubricated as directed in the included instructions, or Motor's Service Manual during installation. It's typically best to replace the Impeller Components even if they look serviceable as it is now all accessible. This small price of prevention can save on catastrophic power head failure if the Impeller fails and the Power Head overheats. The reassembly is just a reverse process of removal, but care should be taken to not damage the top splines of the drive shaft or powerhead crank shaft. feeding the drive shaft and shift rod up the leg and into place can be challenging sometimes, and may require moving the shift lever forward or reverse to get the coupler connected DONT DROP THE BOLT! Also you may need to rotate the flywheel on the powerhead to get the splines to line up. Patience here can save many headaches. Never rotate the drive shaft from the power head in the reverse direction as this can cause some or all of the blades on the impeller to bend the wrong direction.
Though this is generalized many outboards use a similar water pump system. Larger Inboard/Outboard motors may be much more involved to access the Water Pump Housing and components as the Outdrive must pivot to raise and lower the Outdrive, and are driven horizontally from the Inboard motor to the pivot point and then down to the Lower Unit Housing. And like I said may require very specialized tools sold by Mercury and OMC or other manufacturers, specific for the application used.
I know this was a long winded Comment, but hopefully someone may get some use out of it, especially if the water pump stops pumping and you may wonder why. Blockage is also a possibility within the Water Passages, especially if the motor operates in a salt water environment and isn't properly flushed after operation. Also NEVER RUN THE MOTOR WITHOUT A WATER SUPPLY! Serious damage to the Impeller, or over heating the power head likely will occur... Also these steps should be done "On Land", Watching a bolt or other component sink to the bottom of the lake can be horrifying!
The Key here is that there is actually NO friction material, it is a solid metal dog on a solid metal gear and THAT is why you never slowly ease a boat into gear, you just pop it in or out as fast as possible so you are not banging the dogs on the gear and beating them to death.
Absolutely 101% correct.
Excellent video. It clearly shows how things work without excessive talk or music. Well done sir !
th-cam.com/video/3tkAohXvmq0/w-d-xo.html
Yes, yapping and music, so irritating. I like this guy.
@@renegademind1833: You think professional TV shows are so "bad"?
@@HelloKittyFanMan Most are too yappy dumb stuff.
@@renegademind1833: No they're not. You don't know what you're talking about. You've never seen any show like How It's Made or MythBusters or This Old House that get their demonstration points across even though they have music and plenty of talking, which talking they need to have in order to make their points?
We are here to learn not to watch cartoons
Even as a kid this was not hard to figure out. What did baffle me is how you can suddenly engage the gears--teeth to teeth--at high speeds without complete mayhem.
At idle its not that fast... but still. It is a very rugged mechanism. You could literally call it stone age.
Plus as described above the prop allows for "Slippage" in the water, and you would never want to shift into gear above idle.
I do videos on my channel to try and help people with certain things. Kind of a "pay it forward" type deal. Thanks for posting this. Excellent visual and explanation of this! On point, clear and concise. 5 years later people like me are just finding your video!
When putting drive shaft back in the lower unit on my 35hp Johnson do I need to release the oil pressure because it feels as if something is pushing it back up.
When we raced outboards,we removed the reverse gear for better holeshot.Seemed to help,need every advantage you can think of when racing.😉
Excellent video,thanks for your time.
This is how stern drives work as well. Very simple, effective design
I knew nothing about this before starting this video. Now I know a little more. Thanks
How i ended up here. TH-cam is a weird place.
you are not alone
Yes it is, but at least now we know to callibrate our shift rods if we are having trouble shifting into forward or reverse with our outboard boat motors 👍
good vid, well done thanks for not talking about your family or some stuff for a few minutes before you got to the point.
Lol I hate videos where people just ramble about useless stuff, this was great & I'm amazing by how this works. Thinking about it in m yhead I thought it would be some complex difficult to understand mechanism but this is genius.
th-cam.com/channels/898pjuEMs2ZpnxSTYmQONA.html
I have a Johnson 2 horse 2 stroke forward only Moyer and I popped out the drive shaft is it easy to put back in. Thanks for all the help. How it popped out was I was an idiot and put in oil in the propeller and did not put the shaft back together in the motor lol. Ps please be easy on me I'm learning
Thank you for the hard work and easy to understand demonstration.
Very simular to a motorcycle gearbox but on a much smaller scale but same concept.
A long time ago my dad's boat with an Evinrude motor would not reverse in the water. Took it to a boat shop and the guy told him he needed a new transmission. Wanting to charge a few grand.
Yes, boat repair costs are no joke. If you know absolutely NOTHING about the motors, you can easily spend $$$$ to fix something that costs 5 bux.
This was a long time ago,mid 90's. Before Google and TH-cam,lol.
Yes, times sure have changed. I don't think I could do all the stuff I do now without TH-cam and forums.
Thanks for posting this up. Now I know what was the issue with that motor. It has stayed in the back of my head all these years. I will show this vid to my dad.
I had a friend who bought a boat years back and I believe reverse gear quit working. She took it to a shop and they wanted to rebuild the entire gearbox. I told her have someone who knows what they're doing check and make sure the linkage is adjusted properly. Linkage adjustment from the remote control as well as adjustment on the motor itself. It turns out that was the only thing that was wrong with it. It probably took no more than 20 minutes to adjust it.
Now all we need is a company that makes Evinrudes.
It's as fascinating as simple! Thank you
Very good No nonsense bull shit music or anything else video. 🎉
Very interesting. Just one small point, that part is not a clutch, it's a gear selector. In this case a forward and reverse gear selector. Thanks for posting.
Nobody seems to specify ratio of the driving shaft gear versus the prop shat gear. Why?
If someone has this info that would be good to know.
Learn something new everyday.... everyday I'm not sleeping.😁 Thanks.
I'm not a boat guy but always interested in learning.
Ha that’s identical to my ATVs drivetrain. Stupid simple. Had no idea. Great vid.
th-cam.com/video/3tkAohXvmq0/w-d-xo.html
@@amit8690 mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Well done, a very clear, crisp explanation. Yes, it does not look difficult, but man, those gear parts are horrifically expensive. Much more than an entire good used power head or complete lower unit, for most engines.
Yes I recommend buying old parts and taking them apart.
Great explanation of what has always been a mysterious mechanical system to me. I appreciate the brevity of the video and the simplicity of your model. Very, very well done! Cheers. 😎
It's literally a DIFFERENTIAL!!! Holy shit! 😆😆😆
not really
When I shift someone told me to shift fast to avoid "grinding" I dont like hearing the grinding sound when I go into reverse or fwd. Can you explain what that sound is, is it harmful, can it hurt the engine if I shift slow or is it best practice to shift into gear fast? thank you
You definitely want to shift quicker the sound is basically the two pieces of metal banging together and connecting. The reason you don't want to shift slow is because there's no in between they're either disconnected or connected. If you shift slow you'll be banging up the teeth on the mechanism. It's not like a car transmission that connects slowly. Also you don't need to shift super fast, you just need to do it in a decisive motion. Also if you're going from forward to reverse give the motor a few seconds to slow down especially if you're slowing down from a high speed and getting ready to reverse. This way you will avoid accidentally switching at too high of a RPM.
@@cenkaetaya OK Awesome, well since I've got your ear... On another subject, how high should the RPM be when trying to achieve top speed? My first time out I noticed when I was pulling a tube I was trying to go top speed but I had to play with the trim. When I had the boat at zero trim, wasn't achieving top speed, so I would adjust up with the trim but either I was overtrimming or going too fast (idk) I would see a huge spike in RPM, and then the boat felt gutless. Don't know what I'm doing right or wrong. I own a 2019 party barge sun tracker. THANK YOU AGAIN!!!
Good info, I always wondered how this worked. Thanks for taking the time and effort in making this video.
Excellent video well described thanks
He kind of sounds like Jamie from MYTHBUSTERS... I can't be the only one who hears it.
bueno, esta bien la explicación, se entendió muy bien el funcionamiento de esa transmision
Respect from Russia. Available and useful video.
Awesome explanation thank you 🙏
This is exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!!!
How to run a gear box. First step don't switch gears unless absolutely required. Usually look the traffic and terrains and curves to make decisions forehand. Neutral is a necessary before stop to gauge slopes.
Very similar to synchronizer rings in an automotive gearbox. Cool!
Its crazy how different yet so similar. Autos, Boats, planes. They have all adopted something from the others. Even if its just simple rivets, to engine tech. ENGINEERING=❤😍
Um No Because that is Not a transmission there aren't any synchronizers Also it's a boat not a car You have alot to learn about mechanical engineering
Wolf Firewalker I said similar, not identical. You have a lot to learn about the English Language.
I finally get it !!!! You are awesome!!!!!!!!!
I don't own a boat but pretty cool to know
Hey Thanks, that was = EASY!
I'll be damn, l never own a outboard motor but if l ever do this is good to know, Thanks
Looks like that prop hit a few rocks.
So COOL! Thanks!
not sure why I'm watching this, been in a boat only once in my life lol but nice explanation!
У меня славные воспоминания о лм вихрь-30!
Евгений Царапкин yes
а Стрела Ветерок
@@MrStrocko по молодости лет, не застал)))). Сейчас на ямахе хожу... но старожилы рассказывали!
Москва 25, Нептун 20, Меркурий, Ветерок 8, 12 были. Вихрь 30 это зверь.
Informative mechanical engineering content
Не знаю, что он говорит, про что он говорит, но почему-то я это смотрю в 3 часа ночи.
Рома Бетехтин yes
Ucis ciuvak panimat. Atkrojitsa mir pa bolse
Я тоже
@@venturii29 пусть они нас понимают)
И откроится им мир намного больше их местечковости)
th-cam.com/video/fRgXQn6USPk/w-d-xo.html
My man, thank you for this!
Well done, thank you Sir.
Grinded my gear for years on that one.
This is just a differential gear
Great Video Explanation with Simple way
Interesting. Never saw it like that 👍
Thanks
Ray
And that's everyone is how you do a "how it works" video. I found that so amazing! Liked and subscribed.
Вот у нас бы в техникуме так объясняли дохододчиво, так я бы анженером сейчас стал.
Вряд-ли
Awesome thanks for this video
Like a basic version of a motorcycle gearbox. That's also a constant mesh system with 'floating' output gears shifted by a fork.
Thank you for this illustration. It is one thing to know how it probably works and quite a nice thing to actually see it. Cheers.
Really cool to see/know what is actually going on. Great video! Thanks!
ttteyus
wdc
How does the outboard motor draw water into the cooling system?
It has a propeller pump at the base and forces the water up the leg and into the cooling jacket. It's called an impeller. Generally pretty easy to replace and should be checked especially on an older motor as obviously if it fails the motor can overheat very quickly.
@@cenkaetaya Thank you!
That prop has been plowing the lake bottom
More than perfect , thanks .
So it’s similar to a rear wheel drive axle combined with a manual transmission. Interesting
Hi I amlooking for this kind of video for a long years. I am trying a build a similar kind of gearbox for my fishing hauler. Can you build that. I am willing to pay. If it is ok I can share the requirements
Low tech system, easy to understand.
I knew how it worked off the thumbnail
It’s a egg beater almost the same as a fishing reel but the prop would have drag washers for it to slip
th-cam.com/video/fRgXQn6USPk/w-d-xo.html
@@trexmidnite h6jy
Well, easy straight forward gear, i love simple solutions.
Thank you this is help alot for me finding a part to make my project ....
One question .... those this gear require clutch also
The centre selector is permanently engaged to the propeller shaft which is in neutral when in the middle , when shifted either left or right , those knobs on the selector lock into the gear on either the right or left within about half a turn , i think in the old days this style of engagement would have been called a dog clutch in that it has no smooth engagement , once the locating teeth/pins on the selector have meshed , it is locked into gear with a bang , however because the prop is in water for the engagement , wear is minimal .
It essentially has no soft engagement friction clutch as you would find in your car or bike .
That is the best i can describe it , hope that helps .
Mygod...outboard gearbox much easier than motorcycle gearbox..
Really appreciate your hard work to make me understand, thank so much
Hafiz Azmi
Hafiz Azmi Thank you. This is Poppy Harlow from Pew News, the most reliable news in TH-cam.
Great video! Thank u !
Similar to sleeves on a manual trans
Not only evinrude use this patent. This very old method use as i know all outboards engines.
@Peg Leg the title of video does not say that.
great video, simple, helpful and to the point
"я сдесь,звали.." -а не кажется ли вам..НАРОД- что пора,пора уже заканчивать эти игрушки!!-с механикой всякой..-в смысле сложной..!-ну так!..-например говорит мой товарищ..!-я с ним совершенно согласен!-,,что,пора переходить в следующую- плоскость,этап!- развития..!!-и начать.....с того что мотор ДВС имеет(!!) некоторые резервы повышения КПД- имеет!- а мы..всё играемся те же игры!?- ну XXI век ребятки!- игры,игрушки..-пора прекращать и как можно раньше!..- пока мы не доигрались до полного истребления друг друга из-за этих энергоносителей-углеводородов !!!!!!..-и.. скорость!!-передвижение в пространстве..!-(авто)100км/час(!?)- ну куда годится..?!
Merci, now i will visualize that each time i use the shifter!
I bought a 1976 Evinrude mounted on a 76 VIP. It's a stick steer. I have broken two plastic cables ends that are attached to the gear shift handle when putting in forward. Obviously, something needs to be calibrated. Learning as I go...
Винт в этой жизни повидал не мало.
Это с советского вентилятора)))
@@ИванТруш-й9х ... настольного...)))
6 million viewers and they don't leave a like. Gee.
Great and easy explanation. Thank you!
Struggled with an early 60’s Johnson 18 for half a year. Motor ran great but the brass bearings made it hell. Retrofitted it with actual bearings and the drive train still sucked.
Thank you, sir.
Very enlightening.
Great video thank you
DON'T LOOSE THE LITTLE BALLS THAT FALL OUT WHEN YOU TAKE THIS ASSEMBLY APART!
thank you for this simple explanation
Also; thanks for NOT making this ABOUT YOUR FACE ....like so many other channels that are run by narcissists!
Why Evin is rude?
Why not Evinpolite, Evinkind or Evinsmooth? :P
Thanks for the video . I have a tohatsu 40hp 2 stroke amd shifting makes some clunky sound when engaging specially on reverse. What needs to be done here? Do i bring down the gear box part of the outboard or is there a bolt that can be adjusted to pull the shift rod?
Thank you sir.
For many men like me this mechanical is hard to understand!🤔🤔👏👏👍
,so,omc ,or e-tec motors / outboard motors ,( ROTATE- CLOCKWISE)???? As car motors all do!/// Not counter clockwise as some twin marine motors do& older aeroplane engines,( as well,not to complicate!
Thanks for sharing.. I'vr learned a lot.. God bless..
Thank you for recording and posting this educational video.
1.3k dislikes because you have failed to explain how it works. Ok, moving the "clutch" forward or backwards changes the direction of the propeller but how does the internal mechanism work? Why does the propeller change direction? It is like explaining how lights work by saying "you flip the switch."
I added a part 2: th-cam.com/video/12dxb6d6pUk/w-d-xo.html
Bradley Bergsma, I beg your pardon shit for brains. I never said I didn't understand. I was merely pointing out that his instructions had holes in it which you must be to stupid to have seen. Further more you also failed to notice that he addressed the point by posting (or making note of a previous post) further explaining the mechanism. In the future please think before you call someone stupid exposing your own stupidity.
WoW, that is ridiculously simple.
Great video. Thank you for posting.
Simples e bem explicado adorei.
Brilliant information, my engine wasn’t going forward, just into neutral and reverse, took the gearbox apart n fixed what I thought was the problem but after assembling it back it now goes into neutral and forward but not reverse 😅
Any solution to why this may be happening??
Simple and smart... Thanks!
Это же надо с каким уным видом ржавый дифференциал крутит😄
Открылась ему тайна неведанная!!!
Теперь маску продаст систему коробки марсохода😅😅😅
Правда при испытании емеля маск и это умудрится раз пятнадцать взорвать😅😅😅
Но акционерам впарит😄😄😄
Thanks my friend, I was always curious how this shit worked...!