This system needs a G shade sealer or G shade base to achieve the correct result. That base works best around 27 psi. 2/3 medium coats. No control coats are necessary in this application. When spraying the tinted clear apply it as you would a finish coat of clear. Nice to see someone trying things out like this. Always like to explore new products. 👍 This water system is translucent so the sealer color or ground color is absolutely necessary because with this you don't spray to hide you spray to achieve correct color result.
Thank you Duane. I did learn a lot from these experiments. Here is the final paint if you want to see how it came out. th-cam.com/video/K83ULbCLelY/w-d-xo.html
Thumbs up asicerik, for the first time using materials new to you I think that you did a great job. Something that I have noticed about the way people are painting now days is that everyone does the same spray pattern over and over. I taught myself to paint cars back when I was younger and still in junior high in the 50's. I read every piece of information I could lay my hands on about how to paint a car. One of the main points that came to my attention was that each coat should be layed down perpendicular to the last coat and thats how I have always layed the paint down when painting and I have never had the problem of tiger striping my paint jobs. I am not saying that its necessary to get a good paint job but it has never failed me to get nice looking metallic paint finishes. I have had many people over the years ask me how I was able to get such uniform, even looking finishes and that how I lay my paints down. I wish you a lot of success in your paint job. Cheers OLDDUDE
Thisoldcar Thanks Old Dude. That is an interesting area for debate, that is for sure. I have heard both arguments. For metallics, I have heard that is NOT a good idea. I think that might be wise for the mid coat. I am not sure how to do that for fenders and narrow panels. You would be making a lot more (smaller) passes. Wouldn't that promote more errors? I can see how to do it on big panels, like the hood/trunk, etc.
asicerik The main reason for debate is that people feel doing the same things don't necessarily work for themselves the same way they do for others. I feel that there are some basic principles to spray painting a car but I also feel that how a person administers those principles can be approached in many different ways. What works for you or someone else may not be the what works for me so I am doing to try different methods and ways to get the result that suits the end result that I am wanting to achieve. The Paint product, the equipment I use and the end result that I want to achieve may be very different from that same scenario that others want to achieve. If you are not comfortable doing things the way that I do them there is no way that you will get the same end result that I do and visa versa. The bottom line is that you need to get acquainted with your materials, equipment and the end result that you want and to do that you will need to do some experimenting to find how you need to get the job done and thats what I see you doing in your video. The thing to remember however is that any certain way if not the only way that the job can get to the final result. Cheers OLDDUDE
It's good to have a little practice...Good effort for the first time..I watched the passes for all the coates and thought I mite have slowed down just a little ( No pro remember) Otherwise a great look into what goes on with the paint..Looks like you'll need a very uniform primer finish to lay the base on...Colour is real nice...Good stuff Erik.
Erik I enjoyed watching you spray for the first time I felt like I was in there with you....I can tell you did your homework before jumping right on it and it paid off....I like your gun control and technique ...don't worry I think you did a nice job and you'll pick up more as you get the feel of the gun and control settings....also paint is real expensive but it's a pretty color
SprayWayCustoms Thanks a lot. That means a lot coming from you. You are my painting hero you know! I will try again soon with a better sealer and see how it goes.
love the color my suggestion is to use all the products from start to finish on your next test panel that way you know if you will have any problems. but all and all it really came out nice
265chevy Thanks Hanson. Problem was they guessed the shelf life on the clear was 6 months or something after I opened it. There is no way I will be painting the car by then. But yeah, I will do that when the time comes. I have enough paint to try this test again. I will probably sand this down and give it another go soon.
That's a very cool color Erik. I'm getting ready to spray some base and clear for the first time as well. I've got the solvent type base. Would like to try the water but I'm afraid I don't have enough air flow.
Double R Restorations Cool! Can't wait to see how it goes. I think the air flow is not so bad for this base. It dried pretty fast for me. Of course, I have low humidity and pretty warm temps, so it may be ok for me here.
To get rid of the streaks do a cross hatch coat it’ll hid a lot of stuff man! I’ve noticed painting that your basic technique will make or break your paint job. You’re way ahead of most people who are just starting painting
Very pretty color, I was considering the fl4 gun when I bought mine but after seeing several videos it seemed most liked the Plus better. I do believe a lot of having a succesful paint job is in the Gun. I really wished I could buy a Techna, It seem s llike it would be beautiful to use. I think you did good, I think the stripes was because of the primer, you will prob paint Polyester Primer to sand on the whole car first and sand it down? I just think you needed a good sealer. Good Job Eric!
Where did you get the red base coat from? i've looked on ppg's site but couldn't find base color for ruby red on there. Or did you have to mix toner in on your own?
That color is great Erik. I think a tip change makes a huge difference on those guns. I was spraying stripes with mine and Tomswonderful world said his was the same and he went up a tip size (can't remember what he said the size was) and the gun quit doing the stripes.
***** Thanks Jerry. I checked the tip today, and it was the 1.3. The tech sheet calls for 1.2 -1.4, so that should have been good. I think it may have been over-reduced. I think they gave me too much reducer. Not sure.
Remember a good rule about painting they say, how fast to move the gun across a panel is about 1 second per foot . Rattle can primer is no good ... as you have found out
TheFrameoff Every time I have sprayed primer, I have gotten runs, so I sped up a little. I used 8 oz. of base coat for the deck lid and panels, which is pretty close to right (I think). It did look too fast in the video though.
what kind of air pressure were you running sounded little high.may have been dry by the time it hit the panel.im still learning to tahoe doors came out ok.now i have another car to paint see how i do on that lol.
tlcbear2 You know that was interesting. I had the H.F. gun at 25 psi. When I switched to the FLG4, the gauge register 0 when I opened up the gun. So, I had to crank up the pressure at the wall to get it. I still ran it around 25 psi (at the input). I think I had the fan too open for the first two coats. I will try again soon.
what pressure were your spraying at? most the time what causes the light spot in the middle is pressure being to high or gun just not spring right. Also you should tighten up on your overlap and paint the trunk lid the shorter part and not long ways.
came out decent for the first time that color. also you should put that mid super wet like clear coat.when I paint this color pretty much the first cost of mid costs it's covered usually I put costs
+Mike Mckay Hmm, I can't remember now, but I think I usually have it around 25 psi. Why would you go the short way? Because it will be that way on the car?
asicerik I always go the short way because less chance of having long strip marks across the whole trunk. Your going to get the paint more evan because it takes more passes to go that way. My drop coat I will go the long way. I have allot of paint vids on my channel you should check them out. I noticed the vids were old after I commented
asicerik Yeah the mid coat you put in the clear coat if I'm correct right? If so you put it on wet. Clear goes on the way you want it to look right from the start. But striping can be caused by so many factors,to high pressure,paint to thin,sometimes gun adjusted wrong. If you need help in the future let me know I've been painting 15 years
@@asicerik good afternoon! I'm sorry, I wanted to know if you knew how to tell me the color of my car chevelle malibu 1968, I already discovered the color of it ... thanks! bye
I REALLY like that color! I've always heard that the prep work will make or break the paint job and the fact that you sprayed that directly over un-prepared rattle can primer and it still came out looking decent is, I think, a pretty good indicator that it should lay down pretty good. In the video I could see a difference in the test with 4 midcoats versus one and none so I bet it really showed up live and in person. Did you use the DeVilbiss on all of the coats or just the clear? That's gotta be exciting! Except for the money part. We have expensive hobbies LOL
What does that mean? You can't really get full coverage (to opaque) with this red. It is way too transparent I think. And how do you do a heavy dry coat anyway? Wouldn't that be a wet coat?
I thought your technique was cool..just the surface you sparyed on wouldnt really show you how you truly layed it down..but I like how you are spraying
This system needs a G shade sealer or G shade base to achieve the correct result. That base works best around 27 psi. 2/3 medium coats. No control coats are necessary in this application.
When spraying the tinted clear apply it as you would a finish coat of clear.
Nice to see someone trying things out like this. Always like to explore new products. 👍
This water system is translucent so the sealer color or ground color is absolutely necessary because with this you don't spray to hide you spray to achieve correct color result.
Thank you Duane. I did learn a lot from these experiments. Here is the final paint if you want to see how it came out. th-cam.com/video/K83ULbCLelY/w-d-xo.html
👍 good painting ghost images😁
Ha! That's a good one.
Thumbs up asicerik, for the first time using materials new to you I think that you did a great job. Something that I have noticed about the way people are painting now days is that everyone does the same spray pattern over and over. I taught myself to paint cars back when I was younger and still in junior high in the 50's. I read every piece of information I could lay my hands on about how to paint a car. One of the main points that came to my attention was that each coat should be layed down perpendicular to the last coat and thats how I have always layed the paint down when painting and I have never had the problem of tiger striping my paint jobs. I am not saying that its necessary to get a good paint job but it has never failed me to get nice looking metallic paint finishes. I have had many people over the years ask me how I was able to get such uniform, even looking finishes and that how I lay my paints down. I wish you a lot of success in your paint job. Cheers OLDDUDE
Thisoldcar Thanks Old Dude. That is an interesting area for debate, that is for sure. I have heard both arguments. For metallics, I have heard that is NOT a good idea. I think that might be wise for the mid coat. I am not sure how to do that for fenders and narrow panels. You would be making a lot more (smaller) passes. Wouldn't that promote more errors? I can see how to do it on big panels, like the hood/trunk, etc.
asicerik The main reason for debate is that people feel doing the same things don't necessarily work for themselves the same way they do for others. I feel that there are some basic principles to spray painting a car but I also feel that how a person administers those principles can be approached in many different ways. What works for you or someone else may not be the what works for me so I am doing to try different methods and ways to get the result that suits the end result that I am wanting to achieve. The Paint product, the equipment I use and the end result that I want to achieve may be very different from that same scenario that others want to achieve. If you are not comfortable doing things the way that I do them there is no way that you will get the same end result that I do and visa versa. The bottom line is that you need to get acquainted with your materials, equipment and the end result that you want and to do that you will need to do some experimenting to find how you need to get the job done and thats what I see you doing in your video. The thing to remember however is that any certain way if not the only way that the job can get to the final result. Cheers OLDDUDE
Thisoldcar Well said!
It's good to have a little practice...Good effort for the first time..I watched the passes for all the coates and thought I mite have slowed down just a little ( No pro remember)
Otherwise a great look into what goes on with the paint..Looks like you'll need a very uniform primer finish to lay the base on...Colour is real nice...Good stuff Erik.
Erik I enjoyed watching you spray for the first time I felt like I was in there with you....I can tell you did your homework before jumping right on it and it paid off....I like your gun control and technique ...don't worry I think you did a nice job and you'll pick up more as you get the feel of the gun and control settings....also paint is real expensive but it's a pretty color
SprayWayCustoms Thanks a lot. That means a lot coming from you. You are my painting hero you know! I will try again soon with a better sealer and see how it goes.
love the color my suggestion is to use all the products from start to finish on your next test panel that way you know if you will have any problems. but all and all it really came out nice
265chevy Thanks Hanson. Problem was they guessed the shelf life on the clear was 6 months or something after I opened it. There is no way I will be painting the car by then. But yeah, I will do that when the time comes. I have enough paint to try this test again. I will probably sand this down and give it another go soon.
That's a very cool color Erik. I'm getting ready to spray some base and clear for the first time as well. I've got the solvent type base. Would like to try the water but I'm afraid I don't have enough air flow.
Double R Restorations Cool! Can't wait to see how it goes. I think the air flow is not so bad for this base. It dried pretty fast for me. Of course, I have low humidity and pretty warm temps, so it may be ok for me here.
To get rid of the streaks do a cross hatch coat it’ll hid a lot of stuff man! I’ve noticed painting that your basic technique will make or break your paint job. You’re way ahead of most people who are just starting painting
Thank you Dylan!
Very pretty color, I was considering the fl4 gun when I bought mine but after seeing several videos it seemed most liked the Plus better. I do believe a lot of having a succesful paint job is in the Gun. I really wished I could buy a Techna, It seem s llike it would be beautiful to use. I think you did good, I think the stripes was because of the primer, you will prob paint Polyester Primer to sand on the whole car first and sand it down? I just think you needed a good sealer. Good Job Eric!
***** Thanks Cary. Yeah, next time I will try it with a good sealer of some sort, and do more spray tests to get the gun dialed in.
Where did you get the red base coat from? i've looked on ppg's site but couldn't find base color for ruby red on there. Or did you have to mix toner in on your own?
You should be able to get it at the paint store. It def needs to be mixed.
@@asicerik Do you have the product codes for the stuff you used?
That color is great Erik. I think a tip change makes a huge difference on those guns. I was spraying stripes with mine and Tomswonderful world said his was the same and he went up a tip size (can't remember what he said the size was) and the gun quit doing the stripes.
***** Thanks Jerry. I checked the tip today, and it was the 1.3. The tech sheet calls for 1.2 -1.4, so that should have been good. I think it may have been over-reduced. I think they gave me too much reducer. Not sure.
asicerik Seems to me that is the tip I was using and Tom suggested to change over to a 1.4 on the Finishline and he had to do the same.
Remember a good rule about painting they say, how fast to move the gun across a panel is about 1 second per foot . Rattle can primer is no good ... as you have found out
TheFrameoff Every time I have sprayed primer, I have gotten runs, so I sped up a little. I used 8 oz. of base coat for the deck lid and panels, which is pretty close to right (I think). It did look too fast in the video though.
To spray envirobase you have to use the ecs sealer primer.. In the right color tone for color your spraying.
Aren't u supposed to mix it into the clear
I did mix it into the clear. That is what the Transtar was for.
what kind of air pressure were you running sounded little high.may have been dry by the time it hit the panel.im still learning to tahoe doors came out ok.now i have another car to paint see how i do on that lol.
tlcbear2 You know that was interesting. I had the H.F. gun at 25 psi. When I switched to the FLG4, the gauge register 0 when I opened up the gun. So, I had to crank up the pressure at the wall to get it. I still ran it around 25 psi (at the input). I think I had the fan too open for the first two coats. I will try again soon.
what pressure were your spraying at? most the time what causes the light spot in the middle is pressure being to high or gun just not spring right. Also you should tighten up on your overlap and paint the trunk lid the shorter part and not long ways.
came out decent for the first time that color. also you should put that mid super wet like clear coat.when I paint this color pretty much the first cost of mid costs it's covered usually I put costs
+Mike Mckay Hmm, I can't remember now, but I think I usually have it around 25 psi. Why would you go the short way? Because it will be that way on the car?
+Mike Mckay Yeah, not terrible. If you take a look at the stripe test video I did, I put the mid on heavier. Thanks!
asicerik I always go the short way because less chance of having long strip marks across the whole trunk. Your going to get the paint more evan because it takes more passes to go that way. My drop coat I will go the long way. I have allot of paint vids on my channel you should check them out. I noticed the vids were old after I commented
asicerik Yeah the mid coat you put in the clear coat if I'm correct right? If so you put it on wet. Clear goes on the way you want it to look right from the start. But striping can be caused by so many factors,to high pressure,paint to thin,sometimes gun adjusted wrong. If you need help in the future let me know I've been painting 15 years
which paint store did you buy it from?
curious if they can get another toner similar to this one, for a decent price.
I got it at FinishMaster. The toner price is pretty good considering it makes almost 4 gallons of mid coat.
Hi good afternoon! Can you tell me what the color of the 1968 chevelle is that it says Paint RR? grateful hug
Sorry?
@@asicerik good afternoon! I'm sorry, I wanted to know if you knew how to tell me the color of my car chevelle malibu 1968, I already discovered the color of it ... thanks! bye
Ah, ok. Thanks!
Did you forget to apply sealer
This was just a test, so I did not. DEF would have helped though. I used their G6 sealer for all the final paint I did.
I REALLY like that color! I've always heard that the prep work will make or break the paint job and the fact that you sprayed that directly over un-prepared rattle can primer and it still came out looking decent is, I think, a pretty good indicator that it should lay down pretty good. In the video I could see a difference in the test with 4 midcoats versus one and none so I bet it really showed up live and in person. Did you use the DeVilbiss on all of the coats or just the clear? That's gotta be exciting! Except for the money part. We have expensive hobbies LOL
Like the color. You'll get the gun right.
MrMach12004 Thanks a lot! I hope so.
I do that rr color Inn ppg solvent base it's allot cheaper and you don't need to buy the fancy mid coat.
y didnt u sand and re prime, y did u paint over those lines in the primer, i dont get it
It was an experiment. Clearly that is what I should have done
yes, that looks like a nice red
***** Thanks. I wish the panel had come out better to do it justice!
Your first coat should of been a 100% coverage dry coat, first coat is just to make the other coats stick. At least for water born
What does that mean? You can't really get full coverage (to opaque) with this red. It is way too transparent I think. And how do you do a heavy dry coat anyway? Wouldn't that be a wet coat?
Is that new ford color
64impalaSS Yup. Color code RR - Ruby Red Metallic.
+asicerik But ford doesn't use ruby red made by ppg.
I had to rewind video i thought you said $1200 i was like WHAT!!!! lol
64impalaSS Yeah - indeed! The cheapest stuff I can get out here in CA is around $600 (UreKem). Low V.O.C., good stuff, but pricey right now.
I thought your technique was cool..just the surface you sparyed on wouldnt really show you how you truly layed it down..but I like how you are spraying
CountrySideClub Thanks CJ! Yeah - too bad the base sucked. Can't fix a bad base.
Do more over lap 50 -70 % over lap is good
TheFrameoff I think I was doing 50%. I could try more overlap I suppose. Thanks man!