Thought to myself 67mm is the standard size people go for.. most of the time you'd be having some form of cam, so it should be fine. Depends how aggressive the cam is i guess, and if you've got the other supporting mods. A popular cam choice is the drag cartel 2.2's. I'm sure you have a built or semi built head, so you should be good. It makes vtec scream and is the best middle ground cam available from what I've seen.
So 67 is a very strange size, 70mm would be 2 and 3quarters but the common size is 3inch/76mm I ran 76mm with the stock cams and head and it was lovely I wouldn’t waste my time with a smaller tube… the head was built completely but now I’ve sold the head as I felt the cams were aggressive enough, they were basically equivalent to the dc2.2 I’ve now gone from a from skunk valve train to dc004 cams and full super tech valve train this time round as I wanted more aggressive , so we shall see now hopefully it isn’t too aggressive… A few of the guys on forums and guys who have had the 3.2 went to the 004 and they say the 004 is very useable and streetable , they compare it to the 3.2 just better?? I guess with the high comp 2.4 bottom end, it should in essence be good for maybe 10 more kw than before
@@philip198310 broooooooo the sound is all I care about with this, cause it doesn’t make thaaaaaat much more power but it does make power , but for the same price and a turbo conversion it makes no power in comparison
52mm tb's are good for over 300 real no BS HP, no need to go any bigger with your setup IMO. I mentioned this before on one of your over vids, the outlet side of those TB's is smaller than the intake port on the cylinder head so although they are 52mm the area after the throttle tapers down much smaller. If you have a look you'll see there's enough material on the flange to open it up quite a bit, it would be interesting to see if it makes a difference to the performance.
That’s amazing news to hear bro!!! I quite like my itbs and don’t wanna change them What do you think though about the cam setup? So when the motor broke and I had the itbs out I match ported all that stuff to try get the most out of it.. the car currently makes somewhere in the region of 290bhp to 300bhp at altitude which I think is quite impressive but I would like a more aggressive delivery and I feel maybe cams would help with that?
@@the_JDM_fanatic How much did you enlarge the TB's? The width is already okay, it looks like the height can go from about 32mm to 38-39mm which is a match for the intake port. If you data log your map sensor you might see if there's a restriction if the pressure drops at high rpm. Sorry, no Idea about those cams, Not sure what you mean about more aggressive? It should pull real hard so I would guess 300 with low pressure is a bit optimistic, dyno's probably a bit happy . Everything would have to be working really well to make those numbers for real, Its all about making the intake, cams & exhaust manifold work together. Big bore 4-2-1 with the correct lengths & play with the intake length on the dyno to find the best compromise might find a bit more.
@@46M111 well it’s 290bhp at the fly not the wheels . It does pull real hard , I guess I’m just a hp junkie, and want more or want to get the most out of it that’s why I wanna get a hole in the hood for direct fresh air… That’s a good idea I’ll do a log to check up on the map sensor and also air intake temps …. That was the first thing I was gonna play with in the runner lengths, longer worked better when it was k20 so maybe shorter better with 24, but like you say, the Dyno will tell everything best
I run a velocity stack on my k20z1 it’s fbo tune but no rbc yet fresh air is the best air! I would def cut the hood for the extra hp for n/an any hp counts.
You have a fn2? Yeah man I’m over the carbon hood, got it to save weight but now with the k24 it’s got torque soooooo who cares right??? Hahahahahahaha Plus I still got the og hood
70 is huge dude!!!! For most peak power I have to agree though I have been doing a lot of research bigger isn’t always better, I say that but I want more out of the car and considering different options so that’s a good contender
@@philip198310 but then again for the same price as a engine swap you could literally just buy a Honda with a k for that price and the sale of the vehicle
Definitely dont cut the bonnet for a couple bhp haha. I think its goof power wise. Cams might make a difference but will it be noticeable spending lotsa Rands for not much gain. N/a for me is the most honda way so if you were chasing punch and numbers then forced induction would have been the way. But as you say you lose a bit of that honda fuzzy feeling you get haha
I got the original hood still soooooo I might just toy with a nice little hole, definitely no scoops or anything of that nature Is it worth the money spent, on the Dyno and numbers wise probably not but the feeling of the extra 10wkw !!!! Oh yesssssssssssss
Revvvvvvvv machine!!! Would have loved to rev to 9000 but the cams don’t allow so it’s kinda pointless in a sense so 8500 is where she lives tiiiiilllllllllll new cams maybe 😄
50 deg wheel with about 40deg vtc from 5500 to about 8k if I remember correct, we played with all different angles and the more we gave higher up the more it was loving it
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thought to myself 67mm is the standard size people go for.. most of the time you'd be having some form of cam, so it should be fine. Depends how aggressive the cam is i guess, and if you've got the other supporting mods. A popular cam choice is the drag cartel 2.2's. I'm sure you have a built or semi built head, so you should be good. It makes vtec scream and is the best middle ground cam available from what I've seen.
So 67 is a very strange size, 70mm would be 2 and 3quarters but the common size is 3inch/76mm
I ran 76mm with the stock cams and head and it was lovely I wouldn’t waste my time with a smaller tube… the head was built completely but now I’ve sold the head as I felt the cams were aggressive enough, they were basically equivalent to the dc2.2
I’ve now gone from a from skunk valve train to dc004 cams and full super tech valve train this time round as I wanted more aggressive , so we shall see now hopefully it isn’t too aggressive…
A few of the guys on forums and guys who have had the 3.2 went to the 004 and they say the 004 is very useable and streetable , they compare it to the 3.2 just better??
I guess with the high comp 2.4 bottom end, it should in essence be good for maybe 10 more kw than before
Man in love with this build.
Thank you kind sir 🙏🙏🙏
Keep the content coming on this car
Most definitely brother! Let me know what you wanna see
Side draughts ..itb i love it.. always a conversion i would have done on my civic if i ever had one❤❤❤
@@philip198310 broooooooo the sound is all I care about with this, cause it doesn’t make thaaaaaat much more power but it does make power , but for the same price and a turbo conversion it makes no power in comparison
52mm tb's are good for over 300 real no BS HP, no need to go any bigger with your setup IMO.
I mentioned this before on one of your over vids, the outlet side of those TB's is smaller than the intake port on the cylinder head so although they are 52mm the area after the throttle tapers down much smaller. If you have a look you'll see there's enough material on the flange to open it up quite a bit, it would be interesting to see if it makes a difference to the performance.
That’s amazing news to hear bro!!! I quite like my itbs and don’t wanna change them
What do you think though about the cam setup?
So when the motor broke and I had the itbs out I match ported all that stuff to try get the most out of it.. the car currently makes somewhere in the region of 290bhp to 300bhp at altitude which I think is quite impressive but I would like a more aggressive delivery and I feel maybe cams would help with that?
@@the_JDM_fanatic How much did you enlarge the TB's? The width is already okay, it looks like the height can go from about 32mm to 38-39mm which is a match for the intake port.
If you data log your map sensor you might see if there's a restriction if the pressure drops at high rpm.
Sorry, no Idea about those cams,
Not sure what you mean about more aggressive? It should pull real hard so I would guess 300 with low pressure is a bit optimistic, dyno's probably a bit happy . Everything would have to be working really well to make those numbers for real, Its all about making the intake, cams & exhaust manifold work together. Big bore 4-2-1 with the correct lengths & play with the intake length on the dyno to find the best compromise might find a bit more.
Also, what are your intake temps under load? Worth logging this if you getting hot air from the rad & the ecu is pulling timing.
@@46M111 well it’s 290bhp at the fly not the wheels . It does pull real hard , I guess I’m just a hp junkie, and want more or want to get the most out of it that’s why I wanna get a hole in the hood for direct fresh air…
That’s a good idea I’ll do a log to check up on the map sensor and also air intake temps …. That was the first thing I was gonna play with in the runner lengths, longer worked better when it was k20 so maybe shorter better with 24, but like you say, the Dyno will tell everything best
@@46M111 also very true so compensate the heat
I run a velocity stack on my k20z1 it’s fbo tune but no rbc yet fresh air is the best air! I would def cut the hood for the extra hp for n/an any hp counts.
You have a fn2?
Yeah man I’m over the carbon hood, got it to save weight but now with the k24 it’s got torque soooooo who cares right??? Hahahahahahaha
Plus I still got the og hood
@@the_JDM_fanaticyeah bro send and no I have a type s in the USA bro! And any hp counts fucking send it bro!
@@rackss5369 👊👊👊
Sounds perfect. But def. to loud for Daily :) Even mine is to loud and i dont have ITB's. Greetz from Holland!
Btw, no seatbelt? Why?
you know this is a very bad habit we have here in south africa man, i need to start using the seat belt all the time
@@the_JDM_fanatic you're on borrowed time, opt for walking if you can't even manage putting on a seatbelt.
@@xsct878 I can’t argue with that, bad habit not putting it on I know
Shaun zurich 70mm itbs will work the best for your set up
😂
70 is huge dude!!!! For most peak power I have to agree though I have been doing a lot of research bigger isn’t always better, I say that but I want more out of the car and considering different options so that’s a good contender
If I had the budget I'll k swop my huyndai accent tomorrow.. ❤❤
@@philip198310 but then again for the same price as a engine swap you could literally just buy a Honda with a k for that price and the sale of the vehicle
Definitely dont cut the bonnet for a couple bhp haha. I think its goof power wise. Cams might make a difference but will it be noticeable spending lotsa Rands for not much gain.
N/a for me is the most honda way so if you were chasing punch and numbers then forced induction would have been the way. But as you say you lose a bit of that honda fuzzy feeling you get haha
I got the original hood still soooooo I might just toy with a nice little hole, definitely no scoops or anything of that nature
Is it worth the money spent, on the Dyno and numbers wise probably not but the feeling of the extra 10wkw !!!! Oh yesssssssssssss
Smile machine 😊😊😊😊😊
Revvvvvvvv machine!!! Would have loved to rev to 9000 but the cams don’t allow so it’s kinda pointless in a sense so 8500 is where she lives tiiiiilllllllllll new cams maybe 😄
What vtc gear are you running, 25 or 50 degree and what is the max vtc are you running with those cams on your set up?
50 deg wheel with about 40deg vtc from 5500 to about 8k if I remember correct, we played with all different angles and the more we gave higher up the more it was loving it
First
First?
@the_JDM_fanatic it's this cliché thing ppl do all over TH-cam, making a point of being the first comment on a video