I just want to say that I look forward to these Torch Talks! Thanks Cheule and Artie. Big thanks to Joshua Dawson for making amazing lights readily AVAILABLE to all. A fact that’s commonly overlooked. Also, it looks like I’ll need that dedomed 519a in my microclick, Artie😂.
I can't agree with the lube part. Most of the decent flashlights (maybe excluding ones with electronic tail switch) will make contact with the PCB with the tube face, not the thread. And even when the contact is made with the thread you're going to squeeze the lube out when tightening the flashlight and it shouldn't cause any problems. Besides, lubing electrical contacts is widely used for preventing moisture buildup and corrosion which are far worse than some lube.
Agreed. Nyogel is specifically *for* electrical connectors. I wouldn't use Super Lube on electrical contact threads, but I also wouldn't use Super Lube in general.
I'm glad you touched on the different clip that can be purchased from Charles for the MC, for me, that milled clip totally changed the light for me, it so much better than the stock clip for in and out of pocket use. And, it has a much better, finished overall look for the light.
I love my Reylights, a simple tail clicky with a nice emitter and reflector is what I want, but I agree that the switches aren't great, particularly on my penlight where it will often not do what I want it to. It gets hot too at 400lm to the point where I'm surprised that the titanium hasn't been a little discoloured. 10440 is not a size which I use much though, paying full price for either of the other two is way out of the question as tiny pocket lights.
The 101/modder segments and permanent co-host. Fun to watch this evolve. - Posting the segments as standalone would bring additional views to be sure. Max that out!
A little bit of silicone grease on the o-ring of a larger torch light a Lumintop Mach can make it so much easier. There's way too much friction from the o-ring when there's no lube. I don't really have any lube on my aluminium Hank lights. If the tailcap turns smoothly without it, I don't feel the need to add more lube. I usually spray the threads and/or a paper towel with isopropyl alcohol and give really gritty threads (ArmyTek) a quick wipe, and then I'll use some q-tips to clean the threads properly. Menda 35278 dispensers are great for loading q-tips up with some isopropyl alcohol. I'll take a toothbrush to some threads when trying to scratch glue off. Sometimes a toothpick or something a bit stronger than a toothbrush is necessary to get the glue out.
@23:15 great video as always. Do you mind diving deeper into the technicalities of how boost is inefficient; only about 40% efficiency? Is this compared to a linear driver?
You absolutely should lube head threads, and dielectric grease is used on electrical connections all the time. You should be able to FILL the threads. There are 2 types of superlube. One is 'synthetic' general purpose lube, and the other is silicone- Most o-rings on cheaper flashlights are black nitrile rubber, not silicone. Avoid using silicone grease on silicone o-rings. You should use "general purpose" or synthetic on silicone o-rings. Never use the same base lube as the o-ring material, which is easily avoided by only using "general purpose" or synthetic greases on flashlights. There are 4 basic types of lubes: petro, synthetic, silicone, and PFPE. What I would recommend is that people buy a smaller tube, like a 1/2 oz at a time so that they don't have to use their finger to apply it.
These threads aren’t load bearing, nor do these go through a lot of revolutions. Most makers I talk to are either leaving the threads unlubed or lightly so for the reasons I discussed in the video. Your information is solid, thanks.
Nyogel 760G is specifically for electrical connectors. I've used it on threads that are the current path many times and never had any problems, I always lubricate both ends.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA Finals D1 | Fall | ยิงต้องโหด ให้เหมือนโกรธกันมาก่อน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OnTdfGySmds/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm so happy I managed to get the datalogging addition to happen. We just passed 10 orders this evening, so production is confirmed.
I just want to say that I look forward to these Torch Talks! Thanks Cheule and Artie. Big thanks to Joshua Dawson for making amazing lights readily AVAILABLE to all. A fact that’s commonly overlooked. Also, it looks like I’ll need that dedomed 519a in my microclick, Artie😂.
I can't agree with the lube part. Most of the decent flashlights (maybe excluding ones with electronic tail switch) will make contact with the PCB with the tube face, not the thread. And even when the contact is made with the thread you're going to squeeze the lube out when tightening the flashlight and it shouldn't cause any problems. Besides, lubing electrical contacts is widely used for preventing moisture buildup and corrosion which are far worse than some lube.
Thanks for your feedback!
Agreed. Nyogel is specifically *for* electrical connectors. I wouldn't use Super Lube on electrical contact threads, but I also wouldn't use Super Lube in general.
The X1S is a great floody thrower too, XHP50.3HI works really well with the optic. It doesn't quite reach spec, but it's close.
Thanks. This TT's have been a great new source of interesting topics a,d insights to me as a noob.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm glad you touched on the different clip that can be purchased from Charles for the MC, for me, that milled clip totally changed the light for me, it so much better than the stock clip for in and out of pocket use. And, it has a much better, finished overall look for the light.
I agree 100%
Kapton tape, also known as polyimide tape 🙂
I love my Reylights, a simple tail clicky with a nice emitter and reflector is what I want, but I agree that the switches aren't great, particularly on my penlight where it will often not do what I want it to. It gets hot too at 400lm to the point where I'm surprised that the titanium hasn't been a little discoloured.
10440 is not a size which I use much though, paying full price for either of the other two is way out of the question as tiny pocket lights.
The 101/modder segments and permanent co-host. Fun to watch this evolve. - Posting the segments as standalone would bring additional views to be sure. Max that out!
A little bit of silicone grease on the o-ring of a larger torch light a Lumintop Mach can make it so much easier. There's way too much friction from the o-ring when there's no lube.
I don't really have any lube on my aluminium Hank lights. If the tailcap turns smoothly without it, I don't feel the need to add more lube.
I usually spray the threads and/or a paper towel with isopropyl alcohol and give really gritty threads (ArmyTek) a quick wipe, and then I'll use some q-tips to clean the threads properly.
Menda 35278 dispensers are great for loading q-tips up with some isopropyl alcohol.
I'll take a toothbrush to some threads when trying to scratch glue off. Sometimes a toothpick or something a bit stronger than a toothbrush is necessary to get the glue out.
Good info!
@23:15 great video as always. Do you mind diving deeper into the technicalities of how boost is inefficient; only about 40% efficiency? Is this compared to a linear driver?
Ok that Star-fall is rather sci-fi wow. If Fabergé made customs.
You absolutely should lube head threads, and dielectric grease is used on electrical connections all the time. You should be able to FILL the threads.
There are 2 types of superlube. One is 'synthetic' general purpose lube, and the other is silicone-
Most o-rings on cheaper flashlights are black nitrile rubber, not silicone. Avoid using silicone grease on silicone o-rings. You should use "general purpose" or synthetic on silicone o-rings. Never use the same base lube as the o-ring material, which is easily avoided by only using "general purpose" or synthetic greases on flashlights.
There are 4 basic types of lubes: petro, synthetic, silicone, and PFPE.
What I would recommend is that people buy a smaller tube, like a 1/2 oz at a time so that they don't have to use their finger to apply it.
These threads aren’t load bearing, nor do these go through a lot of revolutions. Most makers I talk to are either leaving the threads unlubed or lightly so for the reasons I discussed in the video.
Your information is solid, thanks.
Nyogel 760G is specifically for electrical connectors. I've used it on threads that are the current path many times and never had any problems, I always lubricate both ends.
0:10 ReyLight Pineapple Mini 😛
Hi, love the podcast. Any plans to make it available on other platforms eg. Spotify? Cheers!
Watching torch manufacturers paint on red Loctite with a brush. 🫠
💀