Factual, useful. Thank you. The tool history was interesting. The delivery was great. Not even trying to entertain me with banter and jokes. Just the facts, ma'am. Thank you for that too.
I bought mine several years ago for a project drilling out broken exhaust manifold bolts. I used the old directions for the over hang distance. It places the cutting edge perpendicular. What I discovered is the heal was not low enough to the cutting edge and would not chip out well and soon dulled and overheated. The heal needed a steeper bevel, so after grinding the first pass on both sides the second pass I advanced the bit and only ground to the first edge of the point on both sides. Creating a double facet/bevel. What a difference that made! I just had to relearn how to grind the bit on that jig for a current project. Kept burning the bit until I figured it out again. It is a great jig, it just takes a bit of learning curve. There is more to it than what the directions provide to make the bit cut to its fullest. A pilot hole for large bits helps too.
I set up the bit for metal 118 degree with 50% of drill diameter overhang. I then use the adjustment on the base to gently kiss the grinding wheel for the first pass. I rotate bit keeping all settings same, grind again, then i use the adjustment knobs at the back to move the drill forward, grind the flute that i ended with, rotate, adjust again when required etc etc. this ensures even grind with minimal heat. Also the 50% diameter rule ensures sufficient relief from the cutting edges to prevent friction heat build up during drilling. This works just fine for me this way. I have a dedicated grinding wheel that a dress regularly with a diamond to maintain the surface. I just love this tool, cheap and does the job very well.
I downloaded the instructions from General Tool. It says, 118 degree point (59 degrees on the angle setting), the drill should protrude 50 % of the diameter of the drill bit, not 100%.
Thanks for creating these videos. Please don't stop. The amount of non-sense, comedy sketch second rate acting that goes into a lot of DIY videos today is infuriating. Your videos are thorough and straight forward. more importantly, the knowledge you've gathered through years of hands on, hard work is reflected in the high quality work you do. Thank you again.
In the first three sharpening attempts you've got the point angle setting set to 88 deg and the 4th attempt you've got the point angle setting set to 59 deg. The 88 deg setting puts the drill tip a lot closer to the grinding surface which is why you were grinding so much material from the drill bit. In such settings you need to move the attachment mounting point further away from the grinding wheel. Throughout the video the point angle changes from 88 to 59 and back and forwards multiple times.
In the video, I never used the 88 degree angle. I tried the 2 most common drill angles 68 and 59 degrees with the same result. There are 3 different instructions for the same sharpener as I explained in the Video. All say to Drill the mounting hole 2-1/4 inches away from the grinding surface. The difference in the instructions is the stick out distance of the drill bit past the drill lip rest on the sharpener. In the first set of instructions at 1:52 on the video, it states the drill should be the distance of its diameter past the lip edge. The problem is with the mounting hole 2-1/4 inches from the grinding edge, you cant move the sharpener far enough back as explained at 2:26 on the video. The second set of instructions at 5:22 said to refer to the chart for the drill angle stick out. At 5:29 the chart states the stick out should be 1/2 the diameter of the drill bit for both 68 and 59 degrees. Had the same result. The drill bit sharpener will not move back far enough to do a touch off with the drill bit no matter which angle you use. The proper instructions are the oldest instruction 6:53 on the video. The drill stick out should be 1/16 of an inch past the sharpener lip edge. At 1/16 of an inch stick out you can adjust the sharpener at any angle and still have room to adjust the sharpener up to the grinder. The point of the video was that the grinder has always been the same but the instruction have been changed. 9:38 on the video.
You found the distance off the support to be 1/16" where I recommended it to be about 1/8" so it may not be all that critical? What is important is the leading/cutting edge be vertical on the finished pass and it may not be allowed to be anything else by virtue of the design of the sharpener. I'm doing this from memory from a few years back, so forgive me if I'm mistaken. I still use the sharpener without the lip stop with good results, and maybe that's just my method, that works best for me?
Yes it is 2-1/4 inches from the grinding surface. I found 3 different sets of instructions on the internet for the sharpener as it progressed through the years from about the 1950s to the present day. The instructions that came with my sharpener did not say how far away to drill the mounting hole. After doing some research on the internet I finally found the correct instructions. The problem is the newer version of the instructions show the stick out past the lip rest is too far. The older original instructions are the correct instructions with the drill bit 1/16th of an inch past the lip rest.
great vid. i have problems as to where set drill on lip & at what distance. this clarifies it. where could i get a pdf of blue point dg-825 instructions ?
Thanks for the comment. I've looked everywhere for the old blue point instruction manual with no luck. Best I could do was looking an image screen shot on google images. Some of the older Craftsman sharpeners had the same instructions as blue point. th-cam.com/video/cc6g3Ah-BBA/w-d-xo.html Here is a link to a video I found. Its in Spanish. I don't speak Spanish but there are some good shots of the manual. Hope this helps.
Excellent video! I recently found on of these in my barn. I'm guessing it's rather old. In the process of cleaning it up and looking forward to using it. Hence my researching it online. I have yet to find any printed instructions. Would you mind terribly to share the link that you found the proper instructions?
Sorry for the delay. I've been trying to find a link to some good instructions. Most of the new instructions have missing or wrong Details. I think the problem is that the sharpener design has been copied by so many different manufacturers, the original instructions have been left behind. Most of what I found is just screen shots of what I could find while researching its history. When you watch my video you will see how wrong the modern day instructions are. If your not mounting it to a flat surface belt sander as I did. I would use the side grinding wheel method on a bench top grinder. Just be sure the grinding wheel is rated for side grinding. Watch all of my video again and I think you will be able to come up with something that works for you. Hope this helps.
I gave you an undeserved thumbs up for showing what not to do! Why did you grind the hell out of that bit that was obviously extended too far?? Had the Craftsman version almost 60 years ago.
I ground the hell out of the drill bit to show people what happens if they purchased this sharpener and follow the new version instructions that are incorrect on the drill bit extension past the lip rest. The old Craftsman and Snap-On (Blue Point) Version of the sharpener had the correct instructions as mentioned in the video.
I received one very similar from my father-in-law’s shop 20 years ago, and he had it for an unknown number of years. Mine doesn’t have a model or manufacturer; but it looks almost identical to yours. Mine also didn’t have a manual. Your video is great, as it showed me how it was used, and gives me some hints that I never had about it. Thanks for a very informative video. A while back, I did a “shorts” video on mine. th-cam.com/users/shortsvrEVGQQ6Dts?feature=share
Dude, throw those instructions away and remove the "lip stop." Set your bit distance to the belt to about 1/8" using the adjustable stop on the rest. Make the flute angles parallel as they come from the factory. Don't reivent the cutting edges, just duplicate what's there. I've done it this way for years. I use the same setup on my belt sander/grinder, a 6" X 48" Craftsman in the vertical orientation. It works great. Your tool rest is too narrow to get the jig back far enough to work correctly. Make a new wider one.
PATRICK, ciao Patrick ho acquistato questo utensile affilatoio(general 825) molto tempo fa senza mai utilizzarlo perché non c'erano le spiegazioni, ora ci sto prendendo confidenza e comincio a trovare le prime soddisfazioni, cosa che non riesco a capire quale è l'utilizzo di quel piccolo arpione uncinato che si trova sulla sinistra in punta sorretto da due viti . Potresti spiegarmi a cosa serve? te ne sarei grato. Un saluto e un abbraccio da ROMA.
@@alro2434 My "expert eye" can tell the position of the bit in the "V" trough. Start with the bit up against the grinding surface and make note of that position, then clamp it down, proceed to grind it, then advance the feed wheel a slight amount for the next grinds.
you should not be allowed around power tools at all this is made for a bench grinder . it can be used with a sander but you were way to close the tip of the bit should just barely skim the grinding surface. your bit is ruined you took the temper out of it with excessive grinding.
You are correct. I am well aware that I ruined the drill bit. That was the point of the video. The Video was about the incorrect instructions that came with drill bit sharpener and the history of the sharpener as the instructions have changed from the original instructions. If you watched the entire video you will see there are many different instructions that came with this sharpener throughout its history. At the end I show the correct way to use the sharpener with the correct instructions.
@@mdw66799 only later you found out how far away to mount it you weren't showing the incorrect way you just didn't know any better you said at the end of the 1st attempt it did a pretty good job cause it was even. so i'm still calling bullshit you can fool some of the people some of the time but you ain't fooling me. the dead give away was when you said so they wouldn't have to go through what you went through. there's nothing wrong with not knowing something . i;m 65 and still learning things.
Factual, useful. Thank you. The tool history was interesting. The delivery was great. Not even trying to entertain me with banter and jokes. Just the facts, ma'am. Thank you for that too.
I bought mine several years ago for a project drilling out broken exhaust manifold bolts. I used the old directions for the over hang distance. It places the cutting edge perpendicular. What I discovered is the heal was not low enough to the cutting edge and would not chip out well and soon dulled and overheated.
The heal needed a steeper bevel, so after grinding the first pass on both sides the second pass I advanced the bit and only ground to the first edge of the point on both sides. Creating a double facet/bevel. What a difference that made!
I just had to relearn how to grind the bit on that jig for a current project. Kept burning the bit until I figured it out again.
It is a great jig, it just takes a bit of learning curve. There is more to it than what the directions provide to make the bit cut to its fullest. A pilot hole for large bits helps too.
I set up the bit for metal 118 degree with 50% of drill diameter overhang. I then use the adjustment on the base to gently kiss the grinding wheel for the first pass. I rotate bit keeping all settings same, grind again, then i use the adjustment knobs at the back to move the drill forward, grind the flute that i ended with, rotate, adjust again when required etc etc. this ensures even grind with minimal heat. Also the 50% diameter rule ensures sufficient relief from the cutting edges to prevent friction heat build up during drilling. This works just fine for me this way. I have a dedicated grinding wheel that a dress regularly with a diamond to maintain the surface. I just love this tool, cheap and does the job very well.
Thank you for the research and for uploading this video.
Thank you, I had the same problem and also eventually found the 1/16" instruction as well.
I downloaded the instructions from General Tool. It says, 118 degree point (59 degrees on the angle setting), the drill should protrude 50 % of the diameter of the drill bit, not 100%.
thanks . i just bought one , and it came with the new style (worthless) instructions . this will help .
Thanks for creating these videos. Please don't stop. The amount of non-sense, comedy sketch second rate acting that goes into a lot of DIY videos today is infuriating. Your videos are thorough and straight forward. more importantly, the knowledge you've gathered through years of hands on, hard work is reflected in the high quality work you do. Thank you again.
The flute should be touching the "Lip Rest". This allows for exact alignment when you rotate the bit to do the other side.
Also, you don’t use a belt sander because the belt is not tight on the platum. The belt actually floats you need to use it on a grinder, period
Sony boy 😂 the adjustment dood ,! Behind the end of the bit, w t f !
In the first three sharpening attempts you've got the point angle setting set to 88 deg and the 4th attempt you've got the point angle setting set to 59 deg. The 88 deg setting puts the drill tip a lot closer to the grinding surface which is why you were grinding so much material from the drill bit. In such settings you need to move the attachment mounting point further away from the grinding wheel. Throughout the video the point angle changes from 88 to 59 and back and forwards multiple times.
In the video, I never used the 88 degree angle. I tried the 2 most common drill angles 68 and 59 degrees with the same result. There are 3 different instructions for the same sharpener as I explained in the Video. All say to Drill the mounting hole 2-1/4 inches away from the grinding surface. The difference in the instructions is the stick out distance of the drill bit past the drill lip rest on the sharpener. In the first set of instructions at 1:52 on the video, it states the drill should be the distance of its diameter past the lip edge. The problem is with the mounting hole 2-1/4 inches from the grinding edge, you cant move the sharpener far enough back as explained at 2:26 on the video. The second set of instructions at 5:22 said to refer to the chart for the drill angle stick out. At 5:29 the chart states the stick out should be 1/2 the diameter of the drill bit for both 68 and 59 degrees. Had the same result. The drill bit sharpener will not move back far enough to do a touch off with the drill bit no matter which angle you use. The proper instructions are the oldest instruction 6:53 on the video. The drill stick out should be 1/16 of an inch past the sharpener lip edge. At 1/16 of an inch stick out you can adjust the sharpener at any angle and still have room to adjust the sharpener up to the grinder. The point of the video was that the grinder has always been the same but the instruction have been changed. 9:38 on the video.
After reflexion, the distance 2 , 2 and half or 3 inches don't change anything because the drill is on the hypotenuse of a triangle.
You found the distance off the support to be 1/16" where I recommended it to be about 1/8" so it may not be all that critical?
What is important is the leading/cutting edge be vertical on the finished pass and it may not be allowed to be anything else by virtue of the design of the sharpener. I'm doing this from memory from a few years back, so forgive me if I'm mistaken.
I still use the sharpener without the lip stop with good results, and maybe that's just my method, that works best for me?
Hello,
Are you sure your fixing hole is 2-1/4 inches from the grinder wheel like is said in page 2 on the instructions for use ?
Yes it is 2-1/4 inches from the grinding surface. I found 3 different sets of instructions on the internet for the sharpener as it progressed through the years from about the 1950s to the present day. The instructions that came with my sharpener did not say how far away to drill the mounting hole. After doing some research on the internet I finally found the correct instructions. The problem is the newer version of the instructions show the stick out past the lip rest is too far. The older original instructions are the correct instructions with the drill bit 1/16th of an inch past the lip rest.
great vid. i have problems as to where set drill on lip & at what distance. this clarifies it. where could i get a pdf of blue point dg-825 instructions ?
Thanks for the comment. I've looked everywhere for the old blue point instruction manual with no luck. Best I could do was looking an image screen shot on google images. Some of the older Craftsman sharpeners had the same instructions as blue point. th-cam.com/video/cc6g3Ah-BBA/w-d-xo.html Here is a link to a video I found. Its in Spanish. I don't speak Spanish but there are some good shots of the manual. Hope this helps.
Excellent video! I recently found on of these in my barn. I'm guessing it's rather old. In the process of cleaning it up and looking forward to using it. Hence my researching it online. I have yet to find any printed instructions. Would you mind terribly to share the link that you found the proper instructions?
Sorry for the delay. I've been trying to find a link to some good instructions. Most of the new instructions have missing or wrong Details. I think the problem is that the sharpener design has been copied by so many different manufacturers, the original instructions have been left behind. Most of what I found is just screen shots of what I could find while researching its history. When you watch my video you will see how wrong the modern day instructions are. If your not mounting it to a flat surface belt sander as I did. I would use the side grinding wheel method on a bench top grinder. Just be sure the grinding wheel is rated for side grinding. Watch all of my video again and I think you will be able to come up with something that works for you. Hope this helps.
I gave you an undeserved thumbs up for showing what not to do! Why did you grind the hell out of that bit that was obviously extended too far?? Had the Craftsman version almost 60 years ago.
I ground the hell out of the drill bit to show people what happens if they purchased this sharpener and follow the new version instructions that are incorrect on the drill bit extension past the lip rest. The old Craftsman and Snap-On (Blue Point) Version of the sharpener had the correct instructions as mentioned in the video.
Rotate your base to get the right clearance it does not have to be lined up straight with the grinder
Keep your desk job! Wonder what them knobby things are for😅
great video thank you
Спасибо за обзор! Приблуда хорошая, слов нет, но сверло охлаждать надо, хоть бы из пульверизатора.
"Sealey SMS01, General 825, Picador no 9 Drill bit sharpening jig. WHAT YOU MUST KNOW!"
I received one very similar from my father-in-law’s shop 20 years ago, and he had it for an unknown number of years. Mine doesn’t have a model or manufacturer; but it looks almost identical to yours. Mine also didn’t have a manual. Your video is great, as it showed me how it was used, and gives me some hints that I never had about it. Thanks for a very informative video.
A while back, I did a “shorts” video on mine. th-cam.com/users/shortsvrEVGQQ6Dts?feature=share
Dude, throw those instructions away and remove the "lip stop." Set your bit distance to the belt to about 1/8" using the adjustable stop on the rest.
Make the flute angles parallel as they come from the factory. Don't reivent the cutting edges, just duplicate what's there. I've done it this way for years.
I use the same setup on my belt sander/grinder, a 6" X 48" Craftsman in the vertical orientation. It works great. Your tool rest is too narrow to get the jig back far enough to work correctly. Make a new wider one.
I concur.
PATRICK, ciao Patrick ho acquistato questo utensile affilatoio(general 825) molto tempo fa senza mai utilizzarlo perché non c'erano le spiegazioni, ora ci sto prendendo confidenza e comincio a trovare le prime soddisfazioni, cosa che non riesco a capire quale è l'utilizzo di quel piccolo arpione uncinato che si trova sulla sinistra in punta sorretto da due viti . Potresti spiegarmi a cosa serve? te ne sarei grato. Un saluto e un abbraccio da ROMA.
Thumbs down for getting rid of the 'lip stop', else what positions it?
@@alro2434 My "expert eye" can tell the position of the bit in the "V" trough. Start with the bit up against the grinding surface and make note of that position, then clamp it down, proceed to grind it, then advance the feed wheel a slight amount for the next grinds.
O porcărie, am cumpărat așa ceva și sunt dezamăgit de acest dispozitiv!
you should not be allowed around power tools at all this is made for a bench grinder . it can be used with a sander but you were way to close the tip of the bit should just barely skim the grinding surface. your bit is ruined you took the temper out of it with excessive grinding.
You are correct. I am well aware that I ruined the drill bit. That was the point of the video. The Video was about the incorrect instructions that came with drill bit sharpener and the history of the sharpener as the instructions have changed from the original instructions. If you watched the entire video you will see there are many different instructions that came with this sharpener throughout its history. At the end I show the correct way to use the sharpener with the correct instructions.
@@mdw66799 only later you found out how far away to mount it you weren't showing the incorrect way you just didn't know any better you said at the end of the 1st attempt it did a pretty good job cause it was even. so i'm still calling bullshit you can fool some of the people some of the time but you ain't fooling me. the dead give away was when you said so they wouldn't have to go through what you went through. there's nothing wrong with not knowing something . i;m 65 and still learning things.