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mdw6679
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2008
วีดีโอ
Whirligig Gatling Gun Part 2
มุมมอง 502 หลายเดือนก่อน
This video is about how I made the back half of the Whirligig.
Whirligig Gatling Gun Part 1
มุมมอง 1132 หลายเดือนก่อน
How I made a Gatling Gun Whirligig. Part 1 of 2 Part Video.
PM1236T Setting the Tool height with the Centering Scope
มุมมอง 2.7K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Viewer suggested using the Centering Scope for the Tool height adjustment.
Precision Matthews 1236T Tool Post Nut Handle
มุมมอง 1.6K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
I got tired of using a wrench on the quick change tool post.
Precision Matthews 1236T Tool Holder Storage Rack
มุมมอง 1.1K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Made a tool storage rack for my lathe
Precision Matthews 1236T Follower Rest Cross Slide Lock
มุมมอง 4.8K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Precision Matthews 1236T Follower Rest Cross Slide Lock
Precision Matthews 1236T Cross slide lock
มุมมอง 2.4K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
DRO scale blocks the cross slide lock. Found a solution.
Lincoln (Walker) 10 Ton Porta Power
มุมมอง 1025 หลายเดือนก่อน
Lincoln (Walker) 10 Ton Porta Power Rebuild
Precision Matthews 1236T Lathe Oil Change
มุมมอง 1.2K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
PM 1236T Oil change after 10 hour break in run time.
Portable Air Tank
มุมมอง 926 หลายเดือนก่อน
Replaced the broken plastic valve knob on my portable air tank
Bench Grinder Tool Rest and CBN Grinding Wheel
มุมมอง 3817 หลายเดือนก่อน
Bench Grinder Tool Rest and CBN Grinding Wheel
Great speed handle build. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
@@homemadetools Thank You
Very good job I enjoyed watching the video thanks
Thanks
Beautiful work
Thank You. I needed the spindle lock to be able to scribe increment lines on a dial, without the spindle moving. Here is the link to how I used it. th-cam.com/video/W50zUfr9sWA/w-d-xo.html
Very nice work, sir!
Thanks
Exellent Nuff Said
Schöne Lösung! Stehe vor genau dem gleichen Problem.
Great work. Enjoyed the machining. Cheers Tony
Thank You
Mouse click central. Lol. Nice project for mill beginners.
Give this lever anodizing.
I have the same machine and it is a joy to use. Super smooth, very precise, and just the right size for my shop.
I've been using it for a few days now. It replaced my round column mill. Big difference between the two. So many more options now with this new mill. Thanks for the comment.
I have the same machine. Had it for about 7 years and still love it. Congratulations
Thanks
Fancy, I hope it gives you many years of trouble free service. Congratulations.
Thanks
Very pleased for you. Looking forward to your future milling videos. I love the way you can have a fork lift on hand to aid delivery unlike the UK with all the red tape. Good stuff...Cheers Tony
I am very lucky. My good friend has his own maintenance business and has several forklifts. He is about 20 minutes away. And delivers it to me when I need it. Thanks for the comment. Working on a milling project now. I should have a video out soon.
Nice well made Taiwanese quality lathe 👍
Speed it up. We do not need to see every rotation of every cut
How did I ever miss this awesome informational video???? Truly magnificent!! Thank you for sharing the great information....
I also would like to know who makes the centering scope. Please let us know.
You found the distance off the support to be 1/16" where I recommended it to be about 1/8" so it may not be all that critical? What is important is the leading/cutting edge be vertical on the finished pass and it may not be allowed to be anything else by virtue of the design of the sharpener. I'm doing this from memory from a few years back, so forgive me if I'm mistaken. I still use the sharpener without the lip stop with good results, and maybe that's just my method, that works best for me?
I gave you an undeserved thumbs up for showing what not to do! Why did you grind the hell out of that bit that was obviously extended too far?? Had the Craftsman version almost 60 years ago.
I ground the hell out of the drill bit to show people what happens if they purchased this sharpener and follow the new version instructions that are incorrect on the drill bit extension past the lip rest. The old Craftsman and Snap-On (Blue Point) Version of the sharpener had the correct instructions as mentioned in the video.
Great solution thanks for posting!
Well, you cannot train monkeys...Gently mate...you rammed it into the grinding face...gentle minimal grinding...Why would you reference an engineers handbook...when you clearly have no idea...and post videos, and not 36 grit!!!
Maybe you forgot to read the description on what the video was about.
Beautiful job! Looks very functional indeed...
Thank you for making this video - as no one else has taken the time to do so. Mine got jammed in the down position while fishing. I knew i could fix it, but this made it a lot easier to do.
You're welcome!
Very nice and very accurate, but you need a laptop A more simple way to go ….. put a mini laser with a narrow point in your nice collet set up and see the laser light on the working top of your insert to see the right center height. Also easy on tools mounted upside down for safe parting with reverse spindle rotation. insert
you do nice work, thanks for sharing :)
Pushing on the left side of the slide to apply the clamp disengages the gib of the opposite side. An alternative is to mod the existing lock screw location. Put a ball brg in the screw hole that can be pushed onto the gib, drill & tap a hole in the top of the slide that will intersect with the ball just behind centre, put a point on a screw to push on the ball brg. Plug the original hole
Keep your desk job! Wonder what them knobby things are for😅
Sony boy 😂 the adjustment dood ,! Behind the end of the bit, w t f !
Very nice work sir
Thanks
nice job, thanks for sharing
WD on your drill
Very nice. That should bring a lot more confidence on setups.
The camera is extremely accurate. If you watch this video th-cam.com/video/BhR3Aw8YXvc/w-d-xo.html at about the 8:28 mark you can see the nose of the dead center. It is precision ground to sharp point. And its sharp. I know because I scraped the back of my hand against it and it cut like a razor blade. In the video you can see the camera is so sensitive it makes the tip of the dead center look flat when its zoomed in. I did some work after I used the camera to set the tool heights, and so far the ones I used are dead on. No more adjustments were needed. Thanks for the comment Jerome.
Very cool.
Love this! Please post information about the centering scope.
I was lucky enough to get a prototype. I will check with the developer to see when they might me available. Here is one of my earlier videos. th-cam.com/video/ChKWe_wzHoo/w-d-xo.html
@mdw66799 thanks for the reply. Man this guy will sell the heck out of those things if they get priced where us home shop guys can afford one. Fantastic idea.
Thanks for the video! Where do you buy kit like this?
Checking with the developer. I will post something when I get more information on availability.
That is a great tool for a quick but rough realignment of the tailstock. Once you have that wonderful camera set up, have you considered making a dedicated tool height reference cylinder that sits on the saddle to check tool height. Some people measure off the lathe bed but I figure the saddle is a better solution for accessability at any time. Where did you purchase the scope? Cheers
I'm thinking about that. I see a lot of videos where people have made a reference cylinder. Thanks for the comment.
This is an excellent lathe for the price. In Australia it sells as the AL 960B for $6700 AUD $4368 USD, sometimes up to 10 percent cheaper when on special. Plan to make it my next lathe.
Is the tool height the same while making chips? This seems like a lot of mincing round compared to just taking a facing cut and adjusting.
Agree, You only want it pretty on center for facing cuts that go all the way. Otherwise it's not that important. In fact in the old days (my days) the standard for optimum cutting was to keep the tool 5 degrees above center. The idea was to always have a positive load on the cross slide lead screw. You also want to keep it above center for boring bars, especially longer ones.
I’m really enjoying the 5C collet chuck I got with my lathe, you might want to consider getting one for your ER collets. In my enthusiasm and ignorance I ordered both the 5C collet chuck and the collet closer thinking I could use both but have decided that the closer isn’t necessary for hobby work and will probably get rid of it. It hasn’t even been installed. Also, the closer adds more length to the headstock end of my lathe and that space is at a premium in my shop.
The 5C collets are on my wish list. The ER32's aren't the greatest.
The centering scope could work for setting your toolholder heights.
That's a great idea. That might be my next video. Thanks for the comment.
Good job with that. I really need to get around to this...
I’ll think about doing this myself. I need to go back and re-watch Mr. Pete’s videos on using a shearing tool. I tried it on my last lathe but even with a very tiny cut it wasn’t rigid enough and protested too much. I’m also lucky to live 15 minutes from a Metal Supermarket so I don’t need to order materials online.
When you first started turning the stock on the lathe I noticed one of the handles on your quick change gearbox bouncing around quite a bit. My PM-1236T does exactly the same thing and I've often wondered if I had a bent shaft in the gearbox. I'll worry about it less now that I've seen yours doing it as well!
I was also concerned about the carriage feed gearbox handle movement. Its more noticeable on my videos when I put them in fast motion. Evidently we are not alone. I saw where someone else on a forum mentioned their 1236T lathe does the same thing. Doesn't seem to effect its performance. I may contact PM to see if this is an issue.
Mine does this as well.
I'm glad to see all this confirmation here. It prevented me from tearing into my gearbox to check for a bent shaft. Hopefully PM will have something to say as well.
What size pop rivets or does it matter
I used 1/8 diameter by 3/8 Long Stainless Steel pop rivets. I think that's the same size Minn Kota has on their parts list. I couldn't find that size at any of my local hardware stores in Stainless Steel.. So my choices were order them from McMaster-Carr part # 97550A515 or Order them from Minn Kota. I chose McMaster-Carr. On the bottom plate as seen near the end of my video, I used #8 by 3/8 long stainless steel screws. That's the only place you can use screws rather than pop rivets. I tried the pop rivets on the bottom plate by they wouldn't hold because their biting into a slot instead of a hole. Found the stainless steel screws at my local hardware store. Hope this helped with your question.
@@mdw66799 awesome thank you very much
I’ve been thinking about doing this as well but I have a workbench and a bank of drawers directly behind my lathe and I currently keep my holders in that. I’m not sure if a rack would be enough of an improvement for me. I may build a shorter rack for the same spot to hold my drill chuck and centres, they tend to roll around in a drawer.
Drawers would have been better, But with 2 lathes and the milling machine my space is limited. I keep the chuck and centers in their original boxes in the storage cabinet under the lathe. Kind of a hassle getting to them sometimes. Thinking about making a spot for them at the right side end of the lathe backboard where it 90 degrees down.
Well done sir, hope u get more subs soon. U make great content
Thanks
that is very decent work!!! thank you for sharing it!
I hear Fanny lying in the background 😂🤣
How funny you picked that up in the back ground. I do agree with your comment.
Man - that sir is very, very nice. I’ll add - your video and audio editing is very well done. 👍👍
Thanks
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very interesting. Nice lathe
Thanks