Thanks for the upload Cris. To all YT viewers, if this is your first time seeing Cris' content - check out his other vids for THE BEST training and coaching content on the interwebz. No lies, this dude knows his surf physics as well as a remarkable degree of totally applicable kinesiology. His videos have been 100% transferrable to the betterment of my surfing. Best surf coach content on YT 🏆
I'm glad that you mentioned used boards because I would rather buy second hand while I figure out exactly what I am seeking in a board rather then committing to a really expensive board that I might not be happy with after a few sessions. I have five boards, and four of them are used.
Great breakdown, Cris. One thing I'd add, as you start to age past 50, those little potato chips get harder and harder to surf. You start to fight your loss of flexibility and strength, which the Surf Athlete app helps with, but your body just ain't what it was when you were in your 20s. Being honest with your abilities and where your fitness is will keep you surfing more waves and less frustrated. Don't be afraid to add length and volume to increase your wave count. It's not about how short of boards you can ride, it's about catching waves and having a fun time. Thanks, Cris.
Of course, as I mention in many of my board videos (I believe this one included, and if not, for certain in my new Mentawais quiver board), a "shortboard" is simply a discussion of outline and rocker, NOT length necessarily. A shortboard for me may be a 5 10', while for someone else it may be a 6 6" or 6 10". it's the outline, rocker, and shape that in my mind determines a "shortboard", or a board intended for use in quality waves and that can handle speed and power. Simply adjust all of those metrics to suit a persons needs. I'd also point out, after running MANY MANY surf coaching camps, with MANY surfers over 60yrs old, there's often a true lack of proper fitness. that's a whole other conversation! thanks for watching my videos, I appreciate it, and appreciate you taking the time to comment
Thanks for explaining that so eloquently. Many a time I’ve dozed off in confusion as a board nerd (extremely knowledgeable) person has gone down the board progression route.
Thank you, brilliant video! I'm 5"7 and 146lbs, and have progressed in 3-4 years from 8"0 foamies to 7"6 and 7"2 longboards and then 6"4 and 6"1 (35-32 litre) shortboard shapes. I was ok taking off and turning but kept going lower because I was struggling to make it out the back on even slightly bigger days. Duck diving feels like my biggest weakness, so I went down to a 5"10, (about 26-28 litre, it doesn't say!) performance board and now while I'm making it out back consistently I'm struggling to take off probably as my positioning isn't great and I'm not used to surfing the pocket. It's clear I need to go back to something bigger, but I feel stuck between needing something I can duck dive to make it out consistently, and something I'm more ready for...I'll probably go back to a 6"0-6"2 shortboard shape around 30-32 litres (surfing mostly beach breaks in Costa Rica). Any suggestions? Hugely appreciated.
26-28 is a VAST and CONSIDERABLE difference. You need to work out what the volume is and what volume suits YOU. You may fall into the category of needing custom dimensions for your 6 0” - 6 2”. You could even get one of those with lower volume (easier duck diving). But again, you have to determine what you’re actually surfing. Just guessing 26-28 isn’t doing you any favors. It’s a vast difference when you’re sub-30 in volume.
Most times I see people struggling to paddling in they are deffinately in the wrong position, but also they are taking short really quick strokes which is actually slower then taking big deep long strokes. Also usually they are too far back. You should feel the wave pick you up from the tail and be in a spot were you're close to pearling but the rocker will lift you nose up as you gain speed it's a real "feel" thing where you have to do it and feel it to understand what I'm saying. But on your paddle outs (as long as its not too shallow take long deep strokes with power, keep your arms straight and cup your hands just slightly after they enter the water. Paddling faster doesn't do anything if you aren't moving as much water as you should be. If positioned right I can spin my board to the beach step on the tail and get my board almost completely underwater then let it push me forward and take 1 long stroke and stand. If you watch the pros they aren't paddling fast (most of them) but they are moving ALOT of water with each stroke. Just for reference I'm 6'1 180 +-5lb ride 29.5 -31.5L for my everyday boards
Hey! Been doing the surf workouts on the app and progressed really well. Looking to move on from my 7'6 midlength to a smallwr hybrid fish so this was perfect. Thinking of going for a 6'10 - 7' as the intial jump! Thanks again!
I tried to go from a 9’2” to a 7’6” and it was rough. I went to a 8’3” long fish and it was way better. I’ll go down to the mid length again, but being more patient is working for me.
Yew sick video, thanks Cris! Can you elaborate more on why a Pyzel Ghost in bigger sizes is good for someone sizing down from bigger boards, and in the Ments? Cheers
its got length and volume in the right places for people that cant' handle low volume potato chip thin surfboards that are extreme rocker / high performance.
@@SurfStrengthCoach yew thanks mate. I was on one of your coaching camps with clay in 2020 just before COVID, so keen to get on another one. Will keep this in mind re: boards
Do you think that starting out on a short board would be a good idea for someone who is very good at skateboarding, snowboarding, and wakeboarding but wants to try and learn to surf? I live in Minnesota and have been thinking about buying a board to try surfing lake superior as there are people who surf it in the winter when the waves get big and it looks like fun. I tried surfing once as a young kid but couldn't get the hang of it. I had no issues getting up on the board but feel like I just couldn't seem to control the longboard once I got up because it was so massive heavy and hard to turn not like my wakeboard that I am used to.
For sure. On our Indonesian coaching camps (which everyone should try and join), we often put people on longer boards (I didn’t say LONGboard, I just said longer), in an effort to break various bad habits and learn to slow down / control their movement and postures.
Did you watch the video. We answer this question multiple times, or give our “advice” to a more efficient step down process. As you would have heard me say in the video, that’s a really big jump, changing too many variables at a time.
Man, good vid, I wish I saw it before buying my first board :D Got a 5'8, im about 183 cm myself. About 5 days trying to surf, I've been smashed and humbled by the ocean , drinking water and broke my wetsuit already . Its been like 2m winter waves but tomorrow finally it shows 0.9m waves. I have some hope :D Thanks for relieving me of feeling totally retarded mate !
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
This guy is one of the few surf coaches I fully trust and listen to. Knows his stuff 100%
Black powah to that
Thanks for the upload Cris. To all YT viewers, if this is your first time seeing Cris' content - check out his other vids for THE BEST training and coaching content on the interwebz. No lies, this dude knows his surf physics as well as a remarkable degree of totally applicable kinesiology. His videos have been 100% transferrable to the betterment of my surfing. Best surf coach content on YT 🏆
I'm glad that you mentioned used boards because I would rather buy second hand while I figure out exactly what I am seeking in a board rather then committing to a really expensive board that I might not be happy with after a few sessions. I have five boards, and four of them are used.
Great breakdown, Cris.
One thing I'd add, as you start to age past 50, those little potato chips get harder and harder to surf. You start to fight your loss of flexibility and strength, which the Surf Athlete app helps with, but your body just ain't what it was when you were in your 20s. Being honest with your abilities and where your fitness is will keep you surfing more waves and less frustrated. Don't be afraid to add length and volume to increase your wave count. It's not about how short of boards you can ride, it's about catching waves and having a fun time.
Thanks, Cris.
Of course, as I mention in many of my board videos (I believe this one included, and if not, for certain in my new Mentawais quiver board), a "shortboard" is simply a discussion of outline and rocker, NOT length necessarily. A shortboard for me may be a 5 10', while for someone else it may be a 6 6" or 6 10". it's the outline, rocker, and shape that in my mind determines a "shortboard", or a board intended for use in quality waves and that can handle speed and power. Simply adjust all of those metrics to suit a persons needs. I'd also point out, after running MANY MANY surf coaching camps, with MANY surfers over 60yrs old, there's often a true lack of proper fitness. that's a whole other conversation!
thanks for watching my videos, I appreciate it, and appreciate you taking the time to comment
Thanks for explaining that so eloquently. Many a time I’ve dozed off in confusion as a board nerd (extremely knowledgeable) person has gone down the board progression route.
Thank you, brilliant video! I'm 5"7 and 146lbs, and have progressed in 3-4 years from 8"0 foamies to 7"6 and 7"2 longboards and then 6"4 and 6"1 (35-32 litre) shortboard shapes. I was ok taking off and turning but kept going lower because I was struggling to make it out the back on even slightly bigger days. Duck diving feels like my biggest weakness, so I went down to a 5"10, (about 26-28 litre, it doesn't say!) performance board and now while I'm making it out back consistently I'm struggling to take off probably as my positioning isn't great and I'm not used to surfing the pocket. It's clear I need to go back to something bigger, but I feel stuck between needing something I can duck dive to make it out consistently, and something I'm more ready for...I'll probably go back to a 6"0-6"2 shortboard shape around 30-32 litres (surfing mostly beach breaks in Costa Rica). Any suggestions? Hugely appreciated.
26-28 is a VAST and CONSIDERABLE difference. You need to work out what the volume is and what volume suits YOU. You may fall into the category of needing custom dimensions for your 6 0” - 6 2”. You could even get one of those with lower volume (easier duck diving). But again, you have to determine what you’re actually surfing. Just guessing 26-28 isn’t doing you any favors. It’s a vast difference when you’re sub-30 in volume.
@@SurfStrengthCoach thank you no it isn't! Much appreciated 🙏🏼🤙🏼
Most times I see people struggling to paddling in they are deffinately in the wrong position, but also they are taking short really quick strokes which is actually slower then taking big deep long strokes. Also usually they are too far back. You should feel the wave pick you up from the tail and be in a spot were you're close to pearling but the rocker will lift you nose up as you gain speed it's a real "feel" thing where you have to do it and feel it to understand what I'm saying. But on your paddle outs (as long as its not too shallow take long deep strokes with power, keep your arms straight and cup your hands just slightly after they enter the water. Paddling faster doesn't do anything if you aren't moving as much water as you should be. If positioned right I can spin my board to the beach step on the tail and get my board almost completely underwater then let it push me forward and take 1 long stroke and stand. If you watch the pros they aren't paddling fast (most of them) but they are moving ALOT of water with each stroke. Just for reference I'm 6'1 180 +-5lb ride 29.5 -31.5L for my everyday boards
Hey! Been doing the surf workouts on the app and progressed really well. Looking to move on from my 7'6 midlength to a smallwr hybrid fish so this was perfect. Thinking of going for a 6'10 - 7' as the intial jump! Thanks again!
I tried to go from a 9’2” to a 7’6” and it was rough. I went to a 8’3” long fish and it was way better. I’ll go down to the mid length again, but being more patient is working for me.
Way too big of a jump, unless there is a lot of inherent skill / natural talent. Too many variables changing!
volumous is not a word, it is voluminous!!!
This was SOOO dang insightful!
Great content as always Chris. Was awesome meeting you and your crew in the water at Maccas earlier this year. Such a great vibe in the line up.
Great content, just signed up for the ap
Thank you for the explanation of board transition so helpful!! 🙏
Keep the content rolling!
Very good, thank you! This is just what I needed!
Twiggy knows how to put on a show!
Great content Chris!
Yew sick video, thanks Cris! Can you elaborate more on why a Pyzel Ghost in bigger sizes is good for someone sizing down from bigger boards, and in the Ments? Cheers
its got length and volume in the right places for people that cant' handle low volume potato chip thin surfboards that are extreme rocker / high performance.
@@SurfStrengthCoach yew thanks mate. I was on one of your coaching camps with clay in 2020 just before COVID, so keen to get on another one. Will keep this in mind re: boards
Great explanation
Haha Go twiggy the Froth Lord.!!! Great Info Cris...!!! 🤙🤙
Great discussion!
Do you think that starting out on a short board would be a good idea for someone who is very good at skateboarding, snowboarding, and wakeboarding but wants to try and learn to surf? I live in Minnesota and have been thinking about buying a board to try surfing lake superior as there are people who surf it in the winter when the waves get big and it looks like fun. I tried surfing once as a young kid but couldn't get the hang of it. I had no issues getting up on the board but feel like I just couldn't seem to control the longboard once I got up because it was so massive heavy and hard to turn not like my wakeboard that I am used to.
thank you
wicth rigth waves is that? nice explanation
Would you say a 7'0 with 47 liters, to a 6'2 with 39.5 liters is to much of a gap? Thats from a All merrick M-23 7'0 to a All merrick Pod-mod Lite 6'2
Stay longer for longer. You’ll catch more waves.
What do you think about sizing up to break bad habits you developed on a short board?
For sure. On our Indonesian coaching camps (which everyone should try and join), we often put people on longer boards (I didn’t say LONGboard, I just said longer), in an effort to break various bad habits and learn to slow down / control their movement and postures.
is dropping from 8ft foamy to 5'7 fiberglass to big of a jump
I am 5'7 feet tall
Did you watch the video. We answer this question multiple times, or give our “advice” to a more efficient step down process. As you would have heard me say in the video, that’s a really big jump, changing too many variables at a time.
10:30 interesting idea. First time I heard someone say the Quiver Killer is a progression/transition board.
How do you know when to go for a shorter board? What are the clues in your surfing that it’s time to change?
Fact is u should surf whatever u enjoy. U don t have to go to a shorter board. Just enjoy , life is fast
Man, good vid, I wish I saw it before buying my first board :D Got a 5'8, im about 183 cm myself. About 5 days trying to surf, I've been smashed and humbled by the ocean , drinking water and broke my wetsuit already . Its been like 2m winter waves but tomorrow finally it shows 0.9m waves. I have some hope :D Thanks for relieving me of feeling totally retarded mate !