Great advice. I do something similar but for longer periods of time. I agree that the first few minutes into the first couple hours are the most critical for heat cycling the rings. I actually use 2 wifi smart outlets, and depending on the size of the gen, I will setup 2 space heaters (more or less depending on the gen KW) and from my phone, I will toggle the loads from 0-50-100% allowing time to cool with 0 load, and holding each load for maybe 10 minutes. I try to vary the loads as much as possible the first hour, and then hold the loads a little longer for hours 2-3-4. Oil change after the first hour. Generally I want to get in 3 oil changes before 10 hours. After 5 hours, I don't go crazy with varying loads.
Thank you for actually writing down your instructions. I took notes while watching the video 2 or 3 times. Then I found your instructions…and my notes were not quite the same…lol. I’m an idiot!
Yup, that's the proper way to break in these engines, just bring up your loads on it, slowly, change the oil, repeat and done. I see too many folks recommend breaking them in with no load. What's that solve? Nothing. lol. Sure you'll get a little shavings etc. but you're not really seating the pistons properly by not putting it under "some" load. And don't run synthetic for the first 50 hours or so, because that will also cause it to resist piston break in.
Good video, from a new generator out of the box should i go straight to step one or a little runtime no load flush oil then go to step 1 or juat atep 1/2/3 from uncrating it Thanks
I just normally do step one,two, three then change oil. The. Change after 5 hrs. Hold each load for 5-6 mins then bring back down and let sit for 20 minutes ish. I used to do a pre flush before the break in heat cycles, but it doesn’t have any load and minimal oil and crank pressure so I feel the added pressure helps wash the engine a little better. All in theory really. Again it’s a lawn mower engine or small out door engine that most people never break in. Heck some books don’t even have a break in procedure. It’s supposed to help the generator coils and windings as well, since they will heat and cool as well. Hope this helps
great video - thank you for that; I´m from Germany and just bought the same Generator (different brand, same product) ; my question: do you also pre-oil the cylinder before the very first start ?! Or maybe pre-oil by using the pullstart without ignition ?! thank U !
I don’t normally pre oil because the cylinder has assembly oil in it. Hence the smoke you see at first when you start it up. Just assembly oil burning of. But I do pull the cord slow a few time to start oil circulating on everything.
Great Video, I'm waiting for my Genmax 5500i Inv. Generator to arrive.. preparing for the Hurricane Season and whatever comes our way here in Central Florida. What generator oil do recommend for this Genmax.? Thanks
So it’s a age old question. Synthetic or non…. For basically lawn mower engines. Some believe synthetic is to thing for cheaper made engines verses car engines with a tighter tolerance. A semi synthetic may be a good option. I tend to use Walmart super tech now after the years of reading, video watching and talking with oil distributors I find that super tech or Kirkland from Costco is made by one of the major oil manufacturers. So why not take advantage of the price difference. So weight is easy a 10-30 or if it’s really cold where you are a 5-30 could be used. Now for type. I have really never seen a lawn mower engine die from oil viscosity break down or type. Mainly it’s neglect or abuse. So regular oil, semi, or full synthetic? These days I go for what’s on sale. And regular maintenance. For these generators and lawn mowers I’m going back to semi synthetic I think as regular oil seems to be harder to find now a days.
Can I break in with 10w 40 oil then put in the 10w 30 synthetic after? Just asking cause I have a few 10 40 sitting around if I can use it to break in that would be great..
I really enjoy you videos. Living off grid I’ve had several generators from Honda to champion, ryobi, energizer, with mixed results for each. Any recommendations on a dual fuel with remote start and I would really like to find one with auto gen start feature but so far I have found only the Aims unit which is very pricey for an off brand. I need 6-9kw but for fuel savings I’m leaning more toward the 6. I run it everyday day to either charge batteries or do laundry. Thanks fir ur reviews!
With all the money you have spent for the small units maybe a home unit could be a better option which will last thousands of hours and have a auto start feature. Or even a onan Rv generator would be a great option. Like the one in my trailer which I posted a video of. You can find those lightly used how ever not super fuel efficient from a gen that idles up and down like a inverter type with throttle control, but it will last a long time and has a low voltage auto start function on some of them. Or a champion home unit or kolher or generac? Only problem is you need only 6k. How many amps you running ? Only running 120volt ?
@@johnnysweekends thanks for the reply. I have considered the smaller champion home units but couldn’t get a distributor to reply also are the pure sine wave? That’s what I need to run the inverter charger and yes I need 220 to backup when I add a mini split. Thanks again
@@johnnysweekends have it in my shopping cart on Amazon but debating since no historical data or long term review. It may be what I go with but I’m concerned since seeing you Vidoe on the 5500 that I will only see 1/2 the watts on 110 just purchased a 6500 watt inverter and will be using my new generator to charge battery when needed as I have no grid. The 6000 is not parallel capable or I would pull the trigger today. Thanks again!
You could wait for some of the other units coming in the next couple months..? More options and switch’s to select 120 or 240 so then you get a rated 30+ amps I believe and then full 240 power. But not sure when the new unit is coming. Should be soon hopefully.
No. Remember these are not much more then outdoor power equipment engines. Weed chippers, water pumps, lawn mowers and more. How often have you seen anyone break those in. Normally never and most these manuals don’t even have a break in. Some do, most don’t. I do heat cycles and I’m done. I will change the oil in the first 30 minutes then again in one hour and then after 10-20 depending how it looks then normal.
@@johnnysweekends There are a few youtube "how to do's' that advise using cylinder lubrication oil . I would agree as it may only be just a small engine but even 2 stroke engines advise to add more oil so the cylinders get well lubed and break in nicely. Im going to do it this way but might also take some tips from your vid on % of load used . Autoparts service rep advised to put the engine under load when breaking it in as he was going on about there being a risk that the cylinder might stick if you leave on idle for an hour. The other videos that use the cylinder lube oil advise to leave the engine on idle for an hour before empty and refill.
After building several dirt bikes I used to race along with big triple cylinder jet ski engines that cost several thousand dollars It was rare we ever broke in a machine like it was supposed to be. It could be a stock class race ski or full mod and most were broke in with in 30 mins or less. Sometimes 2 mins if something happened and you were jamming to the line. Sometimes those ran the best and when torn down they looked so good. Minimal piston blow by and cross hatch on cylinder still looked great. I have read all the technicals about break in oils and more and so far I don’t think a long break in period is beneficial. Heat cycles heat seat the piston rings and varies loads help break in the bearings as they get hold and cool. After several cycles these little engines are ready. Honda doesn’t even have a break in procedure for there generator the new eu3200i I don’t think my eu2200 as well
Very first one …20-30 mins then a couple hours then 50 hrs depending on conditions. So if you run at 80% load and it’s 90+ degrees you may wanna drop to 25-30 hrs depending if it’s consistent load and dirty conditions. Normal use 50 is fine. 1/3 load and 60 degrees could probably extend to a little over 50… Hope this helps 👍🏼
It's carbon in the oil, not metal shavings. There is some very small wear product there, but the oil will look dark after a few minutes after every oil change, you will never have clean oil after running even a few minutes with any engine. The only engine I have ever seen with a months worth of running was a Porsche 914 four cylinder. I would drain it after a month or two and it looked perfectly new still. Crazy. No other engine I built was that perfect. German engineering.
Can you do a video explaining what everything on the front panel does? I bought three of these and I don’t really know what the numbers on the front mean. I understand watts and amps. But this isn’t clear. And the manual for these doesn’t explain anything.
If you haven’t watched this video, this is what I am going to verify soon. Sometimes the fuel valve will stay on just enough to where it will drip in the carb… Verification is best.
Well Genmax has been building generators for allot of other companies for a long time. They decided to make there own. I don’t think any companies want to make product that are gonna be unreliable as most companies want to make money. Bad reputation makes companies fail. Which eventually then they go out of business. The engines are made from a company that has been around a long time as well. So overall I can’t see the reliability be any different then champion, Aipower, DuroMax predator and more. Since so many come from the same couple of companies. I always advise when buying from a big box store or Amazon, just buy the warranty. Most generators fail in the first year if there is a manufacturer problem. After that it’s the owner who normally neglects or abused the generator. Hope this helps
Yup some say that and some say nothing at all. Most the time I don’t know anyone who breaks in lawn mower engines. But I have been doing heat cycles for over 20 years on much more expensive engines then this little things. But I encourage everyone to do what they feel comfortable with.
Hmm I’m not sure exactly what part. But the whole process is broke into 3rds. 1/3rd load, 2/3 load ,full load , off. All done. Remember it’s a lawn mower engine basically and no one breaks those in. Just change the oil after step one or two. It will be real dirty by then.
Yup, after years of reading and watching endless project farm videos of so many oil tests and looking at the chemical data sheets, I have realized what advertising can really do and in the end what is really needed. I buy Amazon oil or Walmart super tech or Kirkland brand as they are all relabeled from one of the big manufacturers like mobile one and the like. I have used diesel oils several times for generator or small motor break but I don’t run the last high load cycle due to weight of oil is normally 15-40 so I’ll switch it before the last heat cycle and go. But diesel oils have tons of detergents… But now I just use synthetic or semi synthetic. What ever I can get, because after all they are just small lawn mower engines that haven’t changed much in years except with the addition of some emissions junk.
I’m not really sold on full synthetic for these generators in my use the synthetic seems to leak and gets used and needs to be added too much. I haven’t tried semi synthetic which may be the best of both. Right now I’m gonna run straight 30w Dino in this new one I have now and see how it works. I run them 12 hours a day so we will see.
Yea I often wonder as well. But you run generators way more then I do so you have the edge there for sure. Be interesting to see 500 hr tear down on the pistons of two different gens one with full synthetic and the other with semi or a Dino oil.. See the wear and blow by on cylinder and pistons
Keep it simple man... magnetic dipstick, spark plug out, lucas oil in it... Mineral oil max level, run at ECO MODE ON, 10 minutes with no LOAD! ... drain the oil... repeat with ECO OFF 10 more minutes, drain the oil... THEN, fully synthetic oil, 15% load 1 hour no cooldown... DRAIN the oil. It's ready to fly at full load. These engines, arcaic design... theres no much to do. Thats it.
![[Part 1] รักมาไม่ทันตั้งตัว❤ หนุ่มสาวโสดถูกจับมาแต่งงานกันกะทันหัน แถมเธอยังเป็นหัวหน้าของเขา?!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y2pOOMkuFI0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great advice. I do something similar but for longer periods of time. I agree that the first few minutes into the first couple hours are the most critical for heat cycling the rings. I actually use 2 wifi smart outlets, and depending on the size of the gen, I will setup 2 space heaters (more or less depending on the gen KW) and from my phone, I will toggle the loads from 0-50-100% allowing time to cool with 0 load, and holding each load for maybe 10 minutes. I try to vary the loads as much as possible the first hour, and then hold the loads a little longer for hours 2-3-4. Oil change after the first hour. Generally I want to get in 3 oil changes before 10 hours. After 5 hours, I don't go crazy with varying loads.
Thank you for actually writing down your instructions. I took notes while watching the video 2 or 3 times. Then I found your instructions…and my notes were not quite the same…lol. I’m an idiot!
Nice! Keeping it simple. Thanks.
You’re welcome 😀👍🏼
Yup, that's the proper way to break in these engines, just bring up your loads on it, slowly, change the oil, repeat and done. I see too many folks recommend breaking them in with no load. What's that solve? Nothing. lol. Sure you'll get a little shavings etc. but you're not really seating the pistons properly by not putting it under "some" load. And don't run synthetic for the first 50 hours or so, because that will also cause it to resist piston break in.
How should the dipstick look on the magnet? Should there be any black on it?
Good video, from a new generator out of the box should i go straight to step one or a little runtime no load flush oil then go to step 1 or juat atep 1/2/3 from uncrating it
Thanks
I just normally do step one,two, three then change oil. The. Change after 5 hrs.
Hold each load for 5-6 mins then bring back down and let sit for 20 minutes ish.
I used to do a pre flush before the break in heat cycles, but it doesn’t have any load and minimal oil and crank pressure so I feel the added pressure helps wash the engine a little better. All in theory really.
Again it’s a lawn mower engine or small out door engine that most people never break in. Heck some books don’t even have a break in procedure.
It’s supposed to help the generator coils and windings as well, since they will heat and cool as well.
Hope this helps
Nice. I’m on it!
With a dual fuel invertor generator break in, do you recommend using gas or LP? Thanks for all you great videos!
Does matter just vary the load up and down to build heat and seat the rings.
great video - thank you for that; I´m from Germany and just bought the same Generator (different brand, same product) ; my question: do you also pre-oil the cylinder before the very first start ?! Or maybe pre-oil by using the pullstart without ignition ?! thank U !
I don’t normally pre oil because the cylinder has assembly oil in it. Hence the smoke you see at first when you start it up. Just assembly oil burning of.
But I do pull the cord slow a few time to start oil circulating on everything.
Why does Champion state not to exceed 50% load during break in if you’re suggesting to bring load all the way from low to 90%?
Tks as always JW.
Great Video, I'm waiting for my Genmax 5500i Inv. Generator to arrive.. preparing for the Hurricane Season and whatever comes our way here in Central Florida. What generator oil do recommend for this Genmax.? Thanks
So it’s a age old question. Synthetic or non…. For basically lawn mower engines.
Some believe synthetic is to thing for cheaper made engines verses car engines with a tighter tolerance.
A semi synthetic may be a good option.
I tend to use Walmart super tech now after the years of reading, video watching and talking with oil distributors I find that super tech or Kirkland from Costco is made by one of the major oil manufacturers. So why not take advantage of the price difference.
So weight is easy a 10-30 or if it’s really cold where you are a 5-30 could be used.
Now for type. I have really never seen a lawn mower engine die from oil viscosity break down or type. Mainly it’s neglect or abuse. So regular oil, semi, or full synthetic? These days I go for what’s on sale. And regular maintenance.
For these generators and lawn mowers I’m going back to semi synthetic I think as regular oil seems to be harder to find now a days.
@@johnnysweekends Thanks
Can I break in with 10w 40 oil then put in the 10w 30 synthetic after? Just asking cause I have a few 10 40 sitting around if I can use it to break in that would be great..
Yea it’s just a splash engine so it will be fine. Use it up. I use semi synthetic a lot after the conventional
I really enjoy you videos. Living off grid I’ve had several generators from Honda to champion, ryobi, energizer, with mixed results for each. Any recommendations on a dual fuel with remote start and I would really like to find one with auto gen start feature but so far I have found only the Aims unit which is very pricey for an off brand. I need 6-9kw but for fuel savings I’m leaning more toward the 6. I run it everyday day to either charge batteries or do laundry. Thanks fir ur reviews!
With all the money you have spent for the small units maybe a home unit could be a better option which will last thousands of hours and have a auto start feature.
Or even a onan Rv generator would be a great option. Like the one in my trailer which I posted a video of.
You can find those lightly used how ever not super fuel efficient from a gen that idles up and down like a inverter type with throttle control, but it will last a long time and has a low voltage auto start function on some of them.
Or a champion home unit or kolher or generac?
Only problem is you need only 6k.
How many amps you running ? Only running 120volt ?
@@johnnysweekends thanks for the reply. I have considered the smaller champion home units but couldn’t get a distributor to reply also are the pure sine wave? That’s what I need to run the inverter charger and yes I need 220 to backup when I add a mini split. Thanks again
So then maybe that new Genmax dual fuel with remote start would be a option. It’s 240 volt option so it could work for you. … thoughts ?
@@johnnysweekends have it in my shopping cart on Amazon but debating since no historical data or long term review. It may be what I go with but I’m concerned since seeing you Vidoe on the 5500 that I will only see 1/2 the watts on 110 just purchased a 6500 watt inverter and will be using my new generator to charge battery when needed as I have no grid. The 6000 is not parallel capable or I would pull the trigger today. Thanks again!
You could wait for some of the other units coming in the next couple months..?
More options and switch’s to select 120 or 240 so then you get a rated 30+ amps I believe and then full 240 power.
But not sure when the new unit is coming. Should be soon hopefully.
Do you use cylinder penetrating oil down the spark plug hole to break in the engine ?
No. Remember these are not much more then outdoor power equipment engines. Weed chippers, water pumps, lawn mowers and more.
How often have you seen anyone break those in.
Normally never and most these manuals don’t even have a break in. Some do, most don’t.
I do heat cycles and I’m done.
I will change the oil in the first 30 minutes then again in one hour and then after 10-20 depending how it looks then normal.
@@johnnysweekends There are a few youtube "how to do's' that advise using cylinder lubrication oil . I would agree as it may only be just a small engine but even 2 stroke engines advise to add more oil so the cylinders get well lubed and break in nicely. Im going to do it this way but might also take some tips from your vid on % of load used .
Autoparts service rep advised to put the engine under load when breaking it in as he was going on about there being a risk that the cylinder might stick if you leave on idle for an hour. The other videos that use the cylinder lube oil advise to leave the engine on idle for an hour before empty and refill.
After building several dirt bikes I used to race along with big triple cylinder jet ski engines that cost several thousand dollars
It was rare we ever broke in a machine like it was supposed to be. It could be a stock class race ski or full mod and most were broke in with in 30 mins or less. Sometimes 2 mins if something happened and you were jamming to the line.
Sometimes those ran the best and when torn down they looked so good. Minimal piston blow by and cross hatch on cylinder still looked great.
I have read all the technicals about break in oils and more and so far I don’t think a long break in period is beneficial. Heat cycles heat seat the piston rings and varies loads help break in the bearings as they get hold and cool.
After several cycles these little engines are ready.
Honda doesn’t even have a break in procedure for there generator the new eu3200i
I don’t think my eu2200 as well
@johnnysweekends Dude! That's totally different than what you Said in the video and have in the description
What are regular intervals for oil change
Very first one …20-30 mins then a couple hours then 50 hrs depending on conditions.
So if you run at 80% load and it’s 90+ degrees you may wanna drop to 25-30 hrs depending if it’s consistent load and dirty conditions.
Normal use 50 is fine.
1/3 load and 60 degrees could probably extend to a little over 50…
Hope this helps 👍🏼
It's carbon in the oil, not metal shavings. There is some very small wear product there, but the oil will look dark after a few minutes after every oil change, you will never have clean oil after running even a few minutes with any engine. The only engine I have ever seen with a months worth of running was a Porsche 914 four cylinder. I would drain it after a month or two and it looked perfectly new still. Crazy. No other engine I built was that perfect. German engineering.
No amount shavings I got lot! not so much Since motors
Can you do a video explaining what everything on the front panel does? I bought three of these and I don’t really know what the numbers on the front mean. I understand watts and amps. But this isn’t clear. And the manual for these doesn’t explain anything.
What generator?
How do you shut fuel off while motor runs its out of gas on this Genmax?
If you haven’t watched this video, this is what I am going to verify soon.
Sometimes the fuel valve will stay on just enough to where it will drip in the carb…
Verification is best.
GENERATOR SECRET Fuel shut off valve built in!!
th-cam.com/video/9KLrEqDG1nA/w-d-xo.html
How reliable would you rate the Genmax 5500 ?
Well Genmax has been building generators for allot of other companies for a long time. They decided to make there own. I don’t think any companies want to make product that are gonna be unreliable as most companies want to make money. Bad reputation makes companies fail. Which eventually then they go out of business.
The engines are made from a company that has been around a long time as well.
So overall I can’t see the reliability be any different then champion, Aipower, DuroMax predator and more. Since so many come from the same couple of companies.
I always advise when buying from a big box store or Amazon, just buy the warranty. Most generators fail in the first year if there is a manufacturer problem. After that it’s the owner who normally neglects or abused the generator.
Hope this helps
In the manual it says never above 75 percent for first 30 hrs
Yup some say that and some say nothing at all.
Most the time I don’t know anyone who breaks in lawn mower engines.
But I have been doing heat cycles for over 20 years on much more expensive engines then this little things.
But I encourage everyone to do what they feel comfortable with.
What is "step 2" of "step 3"? That makes no sense at all...
Hmm I’m not sure exactly what part.
But the whole process is broke into 3rds.
1/3rd load, 2/3 load ,full load , off.
All done. Remember it’s a lawn mower engine basically and no one breaks those in.
Just change the oil after step one or two.
It will be real dirty by then.
What's your oil of choice? Full synthetic?
Yup, after years of reading and watching endless project farm videos of so many oil tests and looking at the chemical data sheets, I have realized what advertising can really do and in the end what is really needed.
I buy Amazon oil or Walmart super tech or Kirkland brand as they are all relabeled from one of the big manufacturers like mobile one and the like.
I have used diesel oils several times for generator or small motor break but I don’t run the last high load cycle due to weight of oil is normally 15-40 so I’ll switch it before the last heat cycle and go.
But diesel oils have tons of detergents…
But now I just use synthetic or semi synthetic. What ever I can get, because after all they are just small lawn mower engines that haven’t changed much in years except with the addition of some emissions junk.
I’m not really sold on full synthetic for these generators in my use the synthetic seems to leak and gets used and needs to be added too much. I haven’t tried semi synthetic which may be the best of both. Right now I’m gonna run straight 30w Dino in this new one I have now and see how it works. I run them 12 hours a day so we will see.
Yea I often wonder as well. But you run generators way more then I do so you have the edge there for sure. Be interesting to see 500 hr tear down on the pistons of two different gens one with full synthetic and the other with semi or a Dino oil..
See the wear and blow by on cylinder and pistons
@@johnnysweekends that sounds like a task for project farm 🤣
Lol I should send him a couple gens.. he probably has time ….😂
Keep it simple man... magnetic dipstick, spark plug out, lucas oil in it... Mineral oil max level, run at ECO MODE ON, 10 minutes with no LOAD! ... drain the oil... repeat with ECO OFF 10 more minutes, drain the oil... THEN, fully synthetic oil, 15% load 1 hour no cooldown... DRAIN the oil. It's ready to fly at full load. These engines, arcaic design... theres no much to do. Thats it.
Man that’s more than I do…..few heats cycles change oil. Couple more heat cycles, done. Let er rip, but yes very basic lawn mower engines lol 😂👍🏼