As an HO model train enthusiast here in the United States, I really how you made the tracks look authentic. For a junction, I had to make my own switch tracks for the tracks to fit right in a small area. I soldered the frogs and guard rails, and used a piece of hacksaw blade to cut out enough for the wheel flanges pass through.
Ron, did you base your weather and ballast video on this? I just watched yours and it seems we were both inspired! About to do the same for the first time and want to get it right.
Hi Alex, 2024 and this is still the best scale ballast laying method, since you originally presented this episode back in 2018. Since then I’ve looked at and thought about different options, but the result is sub standard, so I’m here again looking how it needs to be done if you want the prototypical finish. Creating the correct ballast, in your other episode, underpins the perfect result. Best regards
Hello, This my first look at your videos and this trackwork is really superb. So realistic. Thanks for the good advice. I look forward to trying these techniques myself. Thanks again, Bob
Outstanding Tutorial. A standard of modelling I wish to aspire too. Have saved this for reference when I come to ballast my track. Thank you for the inspiration
Some really good ideras here - I like the brush substitute - the veloured wooden block - and that you use really fine ballast: for 0 gauge I use 00 ballast: it just looks far better in my eyes. there's nothing lie looking at colour photos of real track for guidance on this kind of thing.
Extremely well done. Proper ballast size, the colour of it all etc. And it's wonderful to see the completed thing. Looks very realistic. Congratulations. Looking forward for more videos from you. All the best, Rafael.
Thank you for sharing this video. It makes ballasting look so simple especially the technique you use. I'll be using your technique for my next ballasting episode on my layout.
Thank you very much for showing us your fantastic technique on this. I am going to do my first railway track diorama, I do learn a lot from you. Really appreciated.
Wonderbar! Beautiful workmanship, very realistic. I just can't get the ambition to do all that tie painting, etc. My layout will be on a 5' x 16' train board, with over 200' of track. I'm 73 so I don't think I would live to see it. LOL Cheers, Bob
Thanks, Rolf Weinert did definitely a great job by creating the "Mein Gleis" track system I´m using. In this video I missed to say my name: Alex. Thanks Cameron!
A really interesting and well presented tutorial, thank you very much for sharing your expertise with us. Your track and ballast looks excellent, I will try your methods soon as I am in the process of rebuilding my layout. Thank you. I have subscribed to your channel. Vivian.
great video, great suggestions/tools, beautiful craftsmanship, never heard of that track supplier... very precise and high quality... wish they made north american track... thank you
Thanks! I used N scale ballast 0,2-0,6mm grain size from www.gleisschotterschmiede.de „Gleisschotter Basalt Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ and „Gleisschotter erdbraun Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ I colored, see my video: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html
Wow looks amazing Great informative video keep up the great videos as they’re helpful even tho I have 20+ years of modelling skills and it’s always good to learn new techniques 👍🏻😊😊
Thanks Panos! I didn't notice any difference on how good the airbrushed paint sticks to the rails with or without a primer, maybe the one I used was not good enough. In both cases you can scratch the paint off the rail with a sharp or hard tool.
@@BBM1930sI also noticed that you are using acrylics versus enamel paints. I see the opinions here are divided. Half of the well known modellers use Acrylics, the other half use Enamels (better coating, firmly).
Absolutely, I use the excellent, almost dustfree and unexpensive fine ballast of gleisschotterschmiede.de. Have a look at my video about ballast: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html
Hi! well done :-) Unfortunatelly I can not find good reviews of H0 locomotives from Roco, Fleichmann, Trix. I am espetially interested in steam engines, but good reviews I saw for 00 gauge: for example sams trains, jennifer e kirk and so on. Mayby you know where I can find so good reviews of H0 locomotivs? to see how well its runs on slow speed, how loud it is, how well detailed, build quality... Best regards
Hello. This is the best tutorial on track painting I have seen. I am sorry to repeat almost the same questions that Riccardo Saverri and Jan Kochanowski asked. When airbrushing the track, I have the Vallejo Leather Brown and only have craft paints. If I do not use the pigments and powder, what do you suggest for additional craft paints to add to the Vallejo? Were you trying to lighten or darken the Vallejo? Adding acrylic Burnt Umber would make it darker. Burnt Sienna would make it lighter. Would you use a 50-50 mix? Or just a little to slightly change the Vallejo? Thank you.
Hi Gary, thanks a lot. The original Vallejo leather brown just needs to become flat because it isn't out of the jar. Frequently used rails are a bit darker und more brown, sidings with low traffic are more rust reddish. Powder pigments make the leather brown flat. Alternatively add mat varnish, maybe starting with 20% varnish. Best, Alex
Hi. You are not happy wit ready matt paints and you add some matting agend. But what it is? I make tests with Revell Aqua and I have the same observation: this matt is a little bit satin, but what kind of matting agend should I add?
Hi Jan, there are several options. As mentioned in the video, I create my own paint by mixing pigments (pouder) with a matt medium, e.g. vallejo matt varnish. I discovered that by adding some "Klucel E", see link below, it gets even more matt. If you use ready liquid paint, than add some "matting pouder, germ. Mattierungspulver", found at elita.de, see link below. Finally, a couple of weeks ago, I found "ak ultra matt varnish". Airbrush that varnish over finished models and everything become super flat. Links: shop.elita.de/epages/ElitaModelleShop.mobile/de_DE/?ObjectID=4457851 www.kremer-pigmente.com/de/klucel-e-63700.html
This was fantastic! Thank you so much. Would you say that the brown ballast is more prototypical for Bavaria? I have seen mixed of red ballast as well.
Thanks Craig, the region here in this modelled section is southern Baden at the swiss border at Basel. For the ballast color mix I followed color photos from the 1950s. The brown is basically old break dust. The new layed ballast back in 1914, when the new Badischer Bahnhof was opened, seems to be bright gray almost white on old b/w photos. I didn't research historical ballast for Bavaria, the current ballast is shades of bright to dark, warm grey.
@@BBM1930s thank you so much for your response! This kind of information is hard to find, especially here in the US. So glad I came across your channel!
Do the turnouts come with the tie plate detail? What manufacturer makes your track? Track in US does not have that kind of detail. I am trying to make this here in the states. Thank you
Yes, they do. The manufacturer is Weinert Modellbau, the track is called "Mein Gleis". For more details, have a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/HLbJxtjh8po/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I'll ask questions that no one has asked. Since the internet translator isn't very good at technical terms, my request is could you write what paints (colors) you used to paint the rail sleepers? You mentioned mixing your own ballast for the rails, but we didn't find out what types (brands) or sizes (it looks like 0.5 mm or less) you used?
@elvictorof Hi, at 1:25 you find the colors for the sleepers. Let me add that at the end of the day it's a mix of leather brown, umbra and if needed some flat black to make it a bit darker.
Thanks, grazie Claudio. I guess you are asking for the manufacturers of track and ballast: Track: www.mein-gleis.de/ Ballast: www.Gleisschotterschmiede.de Take a look at this videos: Track: th-cam.com/video/HLbJxtjh8po/w-d-xo.html Ballast: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html In case you mean the fabric of the broom it´s short fiber velours.
Ciao Fernando, esatto, i binari di Basilea Badense sono incollati direttamente alle tavole di listellare da 22mm. Berlino invece ha 3mm di gomma sotto, una parte della rampa non in vista ha 5mm di gomma. Ho fatto delle prove con molti materiali per attenuare il rumore. Fatto è che una volta incollato il pietrisco l'effetto isolante di tutti i materiali si riduce radicalmente. Solo nei tratti nascosti senza pietrisco l'effetto attenuante della gomma è eccezzionale, il sughero è molto meno efficace. Quando i treni si muovono lentamente come a Basilea, una volta messo il pietrisco, c'è poca differenza tra gomma, sughero e legno diretto, però la tonalità del rumore mi sembra un pò più piacevole con la gomma. Più veloci viaggiano i treni, più vale la pena metterci la gomma sotto, il sughero è molto meno efficace. Saluti Alex
Perfetto, Grazie della dettagliata spiegazione. Scusa per tutte queste domande, ma sto imparando un sacco di cose interessanti sul tuo canale che nessun altro ha mai spiegato fin ora. Saluti e grazie ancora!
A beautiful job and well done. I like the idea of the latex glue. Also after I've painted and scraped the rail tops I then scrape the rounded insides on top of the rail. Just makes electrical contact a little better on the root radius of the wheels. Did you use N scale ballast? Also, the track looks like that made by Tillig is that so? The turnouts are very nice indeed!
Thanks, Peter. Yes, I used N scale ballast 0,2-0,6mm grain size from www.gleisschotterschmiede.de „Gleisschotter Basalt Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ and „Gleisschotter erdbraun Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ I colored, see my video: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html It's all track and turnouts from Weinert Modellbau, Germany, named "Mein Gleis": www.mein-gleis.de. See also my video: th-cam.com/video/HLbJxtjh8po/w-d-xo.html
Das Gleis sieht aus wie echt. Aber warum 2 Grenzzeichen? Ich kenne das nur mit einem Grenzzeichen in der Mitte. Sind die Weichenlaternen eigentlich angeklebt? Falls ja, warum nicht beweglich?
Meine Anlage spielt Anfang der Dreißigerjahre, Epoche II. Bei den Gleisanlagen der Deutschen Reichsbahngesellschaft DRG waren standardmäßig - wie gezeigt - zwei Grenzzeichen platziert. Erst später in der Nachkriegszeit ging die DB und DR zum einzelnen, mittigen Grenzzeichen über. Allerdings sieht man auf Fotos vereinzelt auch schon in den Dreißigern mittige. Die Weichenlaternen drehen nicht mit, nur für Fotos kann man sie von Hand zurechtdrehen. Der Zusammenbau der Weinert-Laternen und das Justieren ist sehr fummelig, ein enormer Zeitverlust, über 2h pro Weiche, sehr hohe Kosten. Ich habe mich dagegen entschieden, auch wenn mitdrehende Laternen zweifellos schöner wären. 86 Weichen sind verlegt, am Ende werden es über 200 sein, auch deshalb dieser Kompromiss... Liebe Grüße, Alex.
A beautiful result, well worth all the time it must have taken. The trackwork looks extremely realistic. Do your point lanterns rotate as the points change?
No, they don't. For two reasons: I found it is just too intricate and excessively time consuming to adjust them to align exactly 0°-90°. Furthermore turning laterns are only available as quite expensive kits. So to my regret I decided to have static laterns.
@@BBM1930s Hi again, Alex. Your reply here answers the question that I was about to ask. Thank you. Which manufacturers offer the turning lantern kits? Steve.
Hi Steve, the lanterns are made by german Auhagen, „Weichenlaternenattrappen“ or „Signal point indicators“ part no. 41618, pack of 6. They are dummy, but ready to install, in perfect scale and nicely sharp edged. I realise now Auhagen has rised the price, too bad. Best, Alex.
@@WaveMaker124 Weinert make moving ones, as well as illuminated ones. They are expensive. In the past you used to be able to get dummy point lanterns from Arnold: despite being for N gauge, they were about right for HO. I think they were made to fit into Arnold point motors, but I put them into small lengths of tube in the baseboard, so they could be turned to the right direction for photographs. The Arnold ones weren't as detailed as the Auhagen ones that Alex mentions, but were good enough. I imagine it would be relatively easy to 3D print them.
@@WaveMaker124 I once built one of these Weinert Gleissperre and lantern: it was probably the fiddliest kit I ever built, but I got it working, though it didn't work as nicely as this: th-cam.com/video/ROrV54E29_k/w-d-xo.html (in case the link doesn't post, that's youtu . be / ROrV54E29_k).
Ciao Alex, sto seguendo i tuoi lavori con molto interesse che trovo magnifici. Mi sto accingendo a comprare l’aerografo per colorare i binari in primo step come fai tu. Vedo che nel video inizi a dare la prima mano di colore con aerografo con : Vallejo leather brown + umbra colour pigmenti + matting powder + acqua per diluizione. Se possibile posso chiederti 4 delucidazioni: 1) l’umbra colour pigment e il matting powder sono polveri, possono essere usati con l’aerografo senza avere problemi? Ho letto che con l’aerografo è preferibile utilizzare colori con bassa granulometria. 2) Che percentuale di pigmenti utilizzi nel mix con il colore acrilico? 3) che colore sono i pigmenti in polvere umbra che utilizzi? 4) Perché aggiungi il matting powder se già il vallejo leather brown è un colore opaco? Credo.. Grazie come sempre per la tua cortese disponibilità. Saluti🤚
Ciao Fernando, rispondo molto volentieri alle tue domande: Infatti ci sono problemi con i pigmenti in polvere nel aerografo… bisogna utilizzare un´ugello grosso e tenere il serbatoio del colore dell´ aerografo un po´ inclinato in modo che i pigmenti che dopo qualche decina di secondi iniziano a depositarsi sul fondo non vengano aspirati direttamente. Devono rimanere ben diluiti, altrimenti oturano l´ugello. Quindi ogni 30-45 secondi occorre mescolare il colore nel serbatoio. Utilizzare colori opachi senza pigmenti in polvere è molto più pratico. Però per me non tutti i colori „opachi“ lo sono veramente, tra loro il leather brown della Vallejo. Per ottenere un opaco al 100% come al vero ho notato che ci vuole una certa ruvidità della superficie finita che si ottiene soltanto con l´aggiunta di pigmenti in polvere oppure aggiungendo il „matting powder“ della Elita. La percentuale di pigmenti è meno del 25%, bisogna provare a secondo dell´ugello. Il matting powder ancora meno, ca. 10%. Il colore è „burned umbra“ chiaro. Saluti Alex
Thanks Joseph. I used N scale ballast 0,2-0,6mm grain size from www.gleisschotterschmiede.de „Gleisschotter Basalt Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ and „Gleisschotter erdbraun Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ I colored, see my video: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html
This is the best weathering and ballasting work I have ever seen
This is among the most realistic model railway track I've ever seen. Great job
Excellent modeling tutorial!
The texture and the color of both the trackwork and ballast is exquisite!
Thank you for all your great modeling work!
Realy pretty track and ballast work! Happy to have discovered your TH-cam channel.
This is by far the most realistic ballast I have seen! what a great job! thank you
As an HO model train enthusiast here in the United States, I really how you made the tracks look authentic. For a junction, I had to make my own switch tracks for the tracks to fit right in a small area. I soldered the frogs and guard rails, and used a piece of hacksaw blade to cut out enough for the wheel flanges pass through.
The best track weathering on TH-cam!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and share your technique with everyone. Great job!
Superb. When you showed some track at the beginning I thought you were going to say "Here is the real thing that we are going to try to model".
EXACTLY what I thought too! Most realistic model track I've ever seen!
So muss das!
Those pics at the end looked real.
Amazing.
Beautiful work. Thank you for sharing.
Ron, did you base your weather and ballast video on this? I just watched yours and it seems we were both inspired!
About to do the same for the first time and want to get it right.
thats some dam good looking track boss!
Gasp! Stunning track....why don't I see these videos until after I've ballasted my own track! Curses!
You are so talented... and patient!!!! Great work!!!
Hi Alex, 2024 and this is still the best scale ballast laying method, since you originally presented this episode back in 2018.
Since then I’ve looked at and thought about different options, but the result is sub standard, so I’m here again looking how it needs to be done if you want the prototypical finish.
Creating the correct ballast, in your other episode, underpins the perfect result.
Best regards
I really enjoyed that. The finished effect you achieved was excellent. Thank you for showing us how you did it.
Now that's some of the best track weathering and ballasting I've ever seen.
Hello,
This my first look at your videos and this trackwork is really superb. So realistic. Thanks for the good advice. I look forward to trying these techniques myself.
Thanks again,
Bob
I too thought the first shot was of real track. Best I've seen. Rail colour and ballast mix the most convincing.
Tidiest ballasting I’ve ever seen. Well done.
Outstanding Tutorial. A standard of modelling I wish to aspire too. Have saved this for reference when I come to ballast my track. Thank you for the inspiration
Beautifully narrated and some excellent tips thank you. The end result Is magnificent!
Very good, most realistic, by far the best I've seen. Love the texture colours in the ballast. Thank you.
Some really good ideras here - I like the brush substitute - the veloured wooden block - and that you use really fine ballast: for 0 gauge I use 00 ballast: it just looks far better in my eyes. there's nothing lie looking at colour photos of real track for guidance on this kind of thing.
The best ballasting video that I’ve seen.
From Australia. Thanks for the idea to make individual brushes for evening out balast.
Cheers
Liam
Excellent work, really neat work
Great product the fish plate from Weinert. Will be looking into those.
Extremely well done. Proper ballast size, the colour of it all etc. And it's wonderful to see the completed thing. Looks very realistic. Congratulations. Looking forward for more videos from you. All the best, Rafael.
Thank you for sharing this video. It makes ballasting look so simple especially the technique you use. I'll be using your technique for my next ballasting episode on my layout.
Thank you very much for showing us your fantastic technique on this. I am going to do my first railway track diorama, I do learn a lot from you. Really appreciated.
Thank you for sharing, this looks great.
Looks like the real thing. Perfect!
On a par with special cinema effects!
That's the best video on ballasting I've ever seen. Excellent sir...!!!
This is brilliant modeling.
Incredible work. It looks..... real !!
Excellent work sir !!!!!!!!.
very proffesional film. thank you. it looks great.
Thank you very much for doing this channel and sharing your experience.
The best video I have seen so far on how to ballast track. Well done and thanks for the tips.
A true legend wow. Best I ever saw. Thank you :)
Just found your video. Perfect... thank you!👍
Loved the video
Great job! Amazing results! Keep posting!
Beautiful job !
Thanks for sharing your use of velour is a technique I'll be taking up
Your talent is amazing! Wondrous!
Thanks for uploading! This is fantastic craftsmanship with a tremendous result.
Wow. Such an amazing result. Nice work!
Wonderbar! Beautiful workmanship, very realistic. I just can't get the ambition to do all that tie painting, etc. My layout will be on a 5' x 16' train board, with over 200' of track. I'm 73 so I don't think I would live to see it. LOL Cheers, Bob
Wonderful work !
Nice job Rolf...!
Thanks, Rolf Weinert did definitely a great job by creating the "Mein Gleis" track system I´m using. In this video I missed to say my name: Alex. Thanks Cameron!
Sorry Alex... Great job...!
@@BBM1930s
Outstanding!
Very nice, thank you.
Superb.
Bob (UK)
A really interesting and well presented tutorial, thank you very much for sharing your expertise with us. Your track and ballast looks excellent, I will try your methods soon as I am in the process of rebuilding my layout. Thank you. I have subscribed to your channel. Vivian.
Wow great job
Its so good it makes one feel inferior by comparison!
Very good video! Thanks!
very good
great, very interesting, my contrats
great video, great suggestions/tools, beautiful craftsmanship, never heard of that track supplier... very precise and high quality... wish they made north american track... thank you
Superb!
Great work
Excellent video, thank you
All N the detail 👍thx
What brand of track is that?! It looks incredible!
That's german model maker Weinert Modellbau, "Mein Gleis", see also my other video: th-cam.com/video/HLbJxtjh8po/w-d-xo.html
I really enjoyed this. Very good results
Wow that’s some awesome looking track you have there. Thanks for sharing I liked and subbed to your channel
Thanks for the video and now you can come and do my ballast!! lol!!
Nice effect. I shall try your broom tool for sure
WOW!!! thank's for sharing :o)
What brand of tracks did you use?
It's all "Mein Gleis" from Weinert Modellbau, take a look at the video here to learn more: th-cam.com/video/HLbJxtjh8po/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
Brilliant! What's the reference of the ballast?
Thanks! I used N scale ballast 0,2-0,6mm grain size from www.gleisschotterschmiede.de „Gleisschotter Basalt Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ and „Gleisschotter erdbraun Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ I colored, see my video: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html
Veramente stupendo! Complimenti ancora! Ciao Angelo
Che dire, tutto perfettamente realizzato, promette bene.
Penso che ne uscirà un capolavoro.
Ciao
Massimo
Wow looks amazing
Great informative video keep up the great videos as they’re helpful even tho I have 20+ years of modelling skills and it’s always good to learn new techniques
👍🏻😊😊
Great technique!
Really impressive but it doesn't requires a primer before airbrusing the rails in 1:25
Thanks Panos! I didn't notice any difference on how good the airbrushed paint sticks to the rails with or without a primer, maybe the one I used was not good enough. In both cases you can scratch the paint off the rail with a sharp or hard tool.
@@BBM1930sI also noticed that you are using acrylics versus enamel paints. I see the opinions here are divided. Half of the well known modellers use Acrylics, the other half use Enamels (better coating, firmly).
Beautiful track work and finishing. Is there a specific brand of ballast you prefer?
Absolutely, I use the excellent, almost dustfree and unexpensive fine ballast of gleisschotterschmiede.de. Have a look at my video about ballast: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html
Hi! well done :-) Unfortunatelly I can not find good reviews of H0 locomotives from Roco, Fleichmann, Trix. I am espetially interested in steam engines, but good reviews I saw for 00 gauge: for example sams trains, jennifer e kirk and so on. Mayby you know where I can find so good reviews of H0 locomotivs? to see how well its runs on slow speed, how loud it is, how well detailed, build quality... Best regards
Thanks! There some reviews here (in german, but a lot of footage: MSL-TV Testberichte: th-cam.com/play/PLcAzWtkyH6Ha9Oe7MesA5AY-JJrQCnyzU.html
Terrific !
Hello. This is the best tutorial on track painting I have seen. I am sorry to repeat almost the same questions that Riccardo Saverri and Jan Kochanowski asked. When airbrushing the track, I have the Vallejo Leather Brown and only have craft paints. If I do not use the pigments and powder, what do you suggest for additional craft paints to add to the Vallejo? Were you trying to lighten or darken the Vallejo? Adding acrylic Burnt Umber would make it darker. Burnt Sienna would make it lighter. Would you use a 50-50 mix? Or just a little to slightly change the Vallejo? Thank you.
Hi Gary, thanks a lot. The original Vallejo leather brown just needs to become flat because it isn't out of the jar. Frequently used rails are a bit darker und more brown, sidings with low traffic are more rust reddish. Powder pigments make the leather brown flat. Alternatively add mat varnish, maybe starting with 20% varnish.
Best, Alex
Hi. You are not happy wit ready matt paints and you add some matting agend. But what it is? I make tests with Revell Aqua and I have the same observation: this matt is a little bit satin, but what kind of matting agend should I add?
Hi Jan,
there are several options. As mentioned in the video, I create my own paint by mixing pigments (pouder) with a matt medium, e.g. vallejo matt varnish. I discovered that by adding some "Klucel E", see link below, it gets even more matt.
If you use ready liquid paint, than add some "matting pouder, germ. Mattierungspulver", found at elita.de, see link below. Finally, a couple of weeks ago, I found "ak ultra matt varnish". Airbrush that varnish over finished models and everything become super flat.
Links:
shop.elita.de/epages/ElitaModelleShop.mobile/de_DE/?ObjectID=4457851
www.kremer-pigmente.com/de/klucel-e-63700.html
This was fantastic! Thank you so much. Would you say that the brown ballast is more prototypical for Bavaria? I have seen mixed of red ballast as well.
Thanks Craig, the region here in this modelled section is southern Baden at the swiss border at Basel. For the ballast color mix I followed color photos from the 1950s. The brown is basically old break dust. The new layed ballast back in 1914, when the new Badischer Bahnhof was opened, seems to be bright gray almost white on old b/w photos. I didn't research historical ballast for Bavaria, the current ballast is shades of bright to dark, warm grey.
@@BBM1930s thank you so much for your response! This kind of information is hard to find, especially here in the US. So glad I came across your channel!
Do the turnouts come with the tie plate detail? What manufacturer makes your track? Track in US does not have that kind of detail. I am trying to make this here in the states. Thank you
Yes, they do. The manufacturer is Weinert Modellbau, the track is called "Mein Gleis". For more details, have a look at this video:
th-cam.com/video/HLbJxtjh8po/w-d-xo.html
Awsome job congats!
Hello, I'll ask questions that no one has asked. Since the internet translator isn't very good at technical terms, my request is could you write what paints (colors) you used to paint the rail sleepers? You mentioned mixing your own ballast for the rails, but we didn't find out what types (brands) or sizes (it looks like 0.5 mm or less) you used?
@elvictorof Hi, at 1:25 you find the colors for the sleepers. Let me add that at the end of the day it's a mix of leather brown, umbra and if needed some flat black to make it a bit darker.
@elvictorof For the ballast have a look here: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
It's fine ballast starting 0.2mm.
The small switch stands, please where did you get them or did you make them???
The two piece cases are Weinert no.7212 Weichenantriebsattrappen and the lanterns are Auhagen no.41618 Weichenlaternenattrappen.
Great JOB!!! What kind of fabric do you use? Regards
Thanks, grazie Claudio. I guess you are asking for the manufacturers of track and ballast:
Track: www.mein-gleis.de/
Ballast: www.Gleisschotterschmiede.de
Take a look at this videos:
Track: th-cam.com/video/HLbJxtjh8po/w-d-xo.html
Ballast: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html
In case you mean the fabric of the broom it´s short fiber velours.
Ciao Alex, mi sembra di vedere che posi direttamente i binari sul compensato senza usare i fogli di sughero. C’è un motivo? Grazie
Ciao Fernando, esatto, i binari di Basilea Badense sono incollati direttamente alle tavole di listellare da 22mm. Berlino invece ha 3mm di gomma sotto, una parte della rampa non in vista ha 5mm di gomma. Ho fatto delle prove con molti materiali per attenuare il rumore. Fatto è che una volta incollato il pietrisco l'effetto isolante di tutti i materiali si riduce radicalmente. Solo nei tratti nascosti senza pietrisco l'effetto attenuante della gomma è eccezzionale, il sughero è molto meno efficace. Quando i treni si muovono lentamente come a Basilea, una volta messo il pietrisco, c'è poca differenza tra gomma, sughero e legno diretto, però la tonalità del rumore mi sembra un pò più piacevole con la gomma. Più veloci viaggiano i treni, più vale la pena metterci la gomma sotto, il sughero è molto meno efficace.
Saluti
Alex
Perfetto, Grazie della dettagliata spiegazione. Scusa per tutte queste domande, ma sto imparando un sacco di cose interessanti sul tuo canale che nessun altro ha mai spiegato fin ora. Saluti e grazie ancora!
Perfect
A beautiful job and well done. I like the idea of the latex glue. Also after I've painted and scraped the rail tops I then scrape the rounded insides on top of the rail. Just makes electrical contact a little better on the root radius of the wheels.
Did you use N scale ballast? Also, the track looks like that made by Tillig is that so? The turnouts are very nice indeed!
Thanks, Peter. Yes, I used N scale ballast 0,2-0,6mm grain size from www.gleisschotterschmiede.de „Gleisschotter Basalt Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ and „Gleisschotter erdbraun Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ I colored, see my video: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html
It's all track and turnouts from Weinert Modellbau, Germany, named "Mein Gleis": www.mein-gleis.de. See also my video: th-cam.com/video/HLbJxtjh8po/w-d-xo.html
Das Gleis sieht aus wie echt. Aber warum 2 Grenzzeichen? Ich kenne das nur mit einem Grenzzeichen in der Mitte.
Sind die Weichenlaternen eigentlich angeklebt? Falls ja, warum nicht beweglich?
Meine Anlage spielt Anfang der Dreißigerjahre, Epoche II. Bei den Gleisanlagen der Deutschen Reichsbahngesellschaft DRG waren standardmäßig - wie gezeigt - zwei Grenzzeichen platziert. Erst später in der Nachkriegszeit ging die DB und DR zum einzelnen, mittigen Grenzzeichen über. Allerdings sieht man auf Fotos vereinzelt auch schon in den Dreißigern mittige.
Die Weichenlaternen drehen nicht mit, nur für Fotos kann man sie von Hand zurechtdrehen. Der Zusammenbau der Weinert-Laternen und das Justieren ist sehr fummelig, ein enormer Zeitverlust, über 2h pro Weiche, sehr hohe Kosten. Ich habe mich dagegen entschieden, auch wenn mitdrehende Laternen zweifellos schöner wären. 86 Weichen sind verlegt, am Ende werden es über 200 sein, auch deshalb dieser Kompromiss...
Liebe Grüße, Alex.
A beautiful result, well worth all the time it must have taken. The trackwork looks extremely realistic. Do your point lanterns rotate as the points change?
No, they don't. For two reasons: I found it is just too intricate and excessively time consuming to adjust them to align exactly 0°-90°. Furthermore turning laterns are only available as quite expensive kits. So to my regret I decided to have static laterns.
@@BBM1930s Hi again, Alex.
Your reply here answers the question that I was about to ask. Thank you.
Which manufacturers offer the turning lantern kits?
Steve.
Hi Steve, the lanterns are made by german Auhagen, „Weichenlaternenattrappen“ or „Signal point indicators“ part no. 41618, pack of 6. They are dummy, but ready to install, in perfect scale and nicely sharp edged. I realise now Auhagen has rised the price, too bad.
Best, Alex.
@@WaveMaker124 Weinert make moving ones, as well as illuminated ones. They are expensive. In the past you used to be able to get dummy point lanterns from Arnold: despite being for N gauge, they were about right for HO. I think they were made to fit into Arnold point motors, but I put them into small lengths of tube in the baseboard, so they could be turned to the right direction for photographs. The Arnold ones weren't as detailed as the Auhagen ones that Alex mentions, but were good enough. I imagine it would be relatively easy to 3D print them.
@@WaveMaker124 I once built one of these Weinert Gleissperre and lantern: it was probably the fiddliest kit I ever built, but I got it working, though it didn't work as nicely as this: th-cam.com/video/ROrV54E29_k/w-d-xo.html (in case the link doesn't post, that's youtu . be / ROrV54E29_k).
Ciao Alex, sto seguendo i tuoi lavori con molto interesse che trovo magnifici. Mi sto accingendo a comprare l’aerografo per colorare i binari in primo step come fai tu. Vedo che nel video inizi a dare la prima mano di colore con aerografo con : Vallejo leather brown + umbra colour pigmenti + matting powder + acqua per diluizione.
Se possibile posso chiederti 4 delucidazioni:
1) l’umbra colour pigment e il matting powder sono polveri, possono essere usati con l’aerografo senza avere problemi? Ho letto che con l’aerografo è preferibile utilizzare colori con bassa granulometria.
2) Che percentuale di pigmenti utilizzi nel mix con il colore acrilico?
3) che colore sono i pigmenti in polvere umbra che utilizzi?
4) Perché aggiungi il matting powder se già il vallejo leather brown è un colore opaco? Credo..
Grazie come sempre per la tua cortese disponibilità. Saluti🤚
Ciao Fernando,
rispondo molto volentieri alle tue domande:
Infatti ci sono problemi con i pigmenti in polvere nel aerografo… bisogna utilizzare un´ugello grosso e tenere il serbatoio del colore dell´ aerografo un po´ inclinato in modo che i pigmenti che dopo qualche decina di secondi iniziano a depositarsi sul fondo non vengano aspirati direttamente. Devono rimanere ben diluiti, altrimenti oturano l´ugello. Quindi ogni 30-45 secondi occorre mescolare il colore nel serbatoio. Utilizzare colori opachi senza pigmenti in polvere è molto più pratico. Però per me non tutti i colori „opachi“ lo sono veramente, tra loro il leather brown della Vallejo. Per ottenere un opaco al 100% come al vero ho notato che ci vuole una certa ruvidità della superficie finita che si ottiene soltanto con l´aggiunta di pigmenti in polvere oppure aggiungendo il „matting powder“ della Elita. La percentuale di pigmenti è meno del 25%, bisogna provare a secondo dell´ugello. Il matting powder ancora meno, ca. 10%. Il colore è „burned umbra“ chiaro.
Saluti
Alex
Ciao Alex, proverò in questo modo. grazie 1000! Gentilissimo!
What did you use for ballast? It's a great color.
I colored fine grey ballast, see my video how to do it: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html
Super job applying your ballast. The most realistic looking result I’ve seen in a long time. What brand of ballast do you use?
Thanks Joseph. I used N scale ballast 0,2-0,6mm grain size from www.gleisschotterschmiede.de „Gleisschotter Basalt Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ and „Gleisschotter erdbraun Spur N/TT 0,2-0,6mm Koernung“ I colored, see my video: th-cam.com/video/YXN7jrZd8qI/w-d-xo.html
absolut top, nur ein kleiner Verbesserungsvorschlag: an den Herzstücken dürfen die nicht befahrbaren Schienen nicht blank sein...
Vielen Dank! Absolut richtig, inzwischen brüniere ich diese Oberflächen, denn ein Farbaufstrich wird beim nächsten Gleisputzen sofort abgewischt.