Jonas, I feel like I'm late to your video you having made and posted this over 3 years ago. I do hope you are still carving and maintaining this channel since you have produced an excellent tutorial on curved blade sharpening. I have several curved spoon blades in need of sharpening and I've acquired everything you mention in the video to give it a go myself. I have a question about the material you have used to cover the round dowel that you used to remove the wire edge on the inside of the blade at about 19:30 in your video. Is that also smooth leather with a polishing compound applied? I would appreciate any replies from you or your community if anyone is so inclined and has the time to entertain a very old man trying to make use of his spare time in retirement. Thank you!
Hi, on that dowel he has a very thin suede leather coated in polishing compound. I find that a firm leather without much give in it works best, such as kangaroo leather.
Thank you very much Joey and Macka! It means a lot and I feel so happy and fortunate that you find this video helpful. Many things have happened since this video: we brought another kid to the world (5 in total), changed job a few times and ended up with my dream job. Making spoons and woodturning was fun, but not possible regarding income. So now I just carve now and then and hopefully one day, I find the time and energy to make videos again ❤️🤞🏻
@@formgjortbyJonasAls Congratulations on the new child! (And the dream job) omg, 5 kids… I hope your dream job pays handsomely 😂👍 All the best and thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos, I’m sure they were very helpful to many of us 🍻
Nice video, thanks for all the information. What sort of bevel angle to you aim for on these knives? I know it is convex and you are doing it by hand, but I’m worried when I sharpen hook knives that I am rounding it a bit too much. Knowing approximately how much to angle the sandpaper would be a great help! Thanks !
You said about doing this in my living room. If I did this, my wife would shove that knife where the sun doesn't shine and I would definitely have tears in my eyes.
Bonjour et merci de cette vidéo instructive et très utile. Ôter le biseau est assez convaincant. Les copeaux sont plus grands et en effet plus lisses. Pourquoi alors Mora vend-il des couteaux croche biseauté, ainsi que les couteaux droits de sculpture biseautés ? Il est assez compliqué d’affûter un couteau croche à la pierre. Votre technique paraît préférable. Merci pour vos retours et pour le partage. Michèle
Thanks for sharing. I think you should try some water or other wet moisture. You sand paper will work much better and for a much longer time. Or is there a special reason why you use it dry? Kind regards
Hey Albert It’s sandpaper for metal. For polishing cars for example. You can find it in hardware stores, but mostly up to 1000 grit. You should as a minimum get 2500, and 5000 is best, followed by a leather stroping :)
If you have unsteady hands, how can you compensate for that? My spoon carving set is only factory sharp. My standard chisel/gouge set and mini set I got from yard sales. I don't want to end up rounding the edge.
You can compensate with practice, jigs, or use/develop sharpening techniques that work just for you ;). It's not a end of the world if your edges are rounded. Nothing ventured - nothing gained ;)
I was actually at Tormek for a demonstration and meeting, when they were looking more into it. Well.. for the Mora 164 it’s okay.. for sure. For a lot of other tools the T8 does the job. But for spoonknives I ALWAYS recommend that you sharpen by hand. I work as an ambassador for both Morakniv and Tormek so I know their tools and machines pretty good 😉
I am guilty of using 400 wet/dry and then going to 2000 wet/dry. (sad face) It is all I have to sharpen my Beavercraft knives with. Of course I think my strop leather is too thick also. This was very informative, thank you.
Hello sarah That's a big gap for sure. Well, follow my lead on the grit steps, and you'll get nice results for sure. I also recommend you to buy Moraknives instead of Beavercraft.. They are really bad quality tools, and the design is bad. Mora aren't expensive, nor the best but they are so much better. After that, buy Robin Woods open and compound spoonknives.. And are you looking for better ones, go for Hans karlsson or Nic Westerman. All the best!
@@formgjortbyJonasAls, I am a blade smith, and instead to forge my tool, I ordered and got one from the Beaver Craft. After inspection, I found that blade is forged and quenched properly (around 55HRC). Handle is ergonomic and sturdy. It could cost me more to make it. What did you mean by mentioning: "they are really bad quality tools?"
@@namentatic4978 The Beaver Craft Hook Knife has an incorrectly ground bevel, making the tool hard to use. Instead of a smooth slightly convex bevel, as you see in the better quality hand forged spoon knives in this video like the Hans Karlsson, the Beaver Craft is hollow ground with a sharp ridge running down the center of the blade. This presents the edge at the wrong angle to the work. Grinding off that ridge and correcting the concave bevel to slightly convex is difficult and a lot of work for someone who isn't a tool maker. Better to spend the money on a properly made tool.
Seems so strange not to have a micro bevel along the edge at least from an edge retention stand point. But I guess I could be wrong. Time to give it a try I guess
When the pro does it, it seems easy. Then I try it, and it's still dull :( I may have gone over the edge too much, rounding it off (like a micro bevel on the outside). Now what? Just re-creating only a secondary bevel first with a rough grit trying to hold it as flat as possible? Or is that too much work for a beginner who has a hard time keeping consistent angles? It's quite a leap to go from just having a spoon knife to having to be able to keep it sharp: needing a bunch of sandpaper, needing a flat AND rounded strop, jeez. Does it take other people a long time to learn this too? Any advice?
Carve wet wood. It’s like carving soap. Any knife edge will work. That’s my plan so far! I also plan on finding someone to sharpen my knives for me. There is a guy in town who does knives and scissors in the back of his sewing machine store. He doesn’t charge a lot. If we hone our knive a few strops every fifteen minutes while carving they almost never need sharpening.
That was very helpful, thanks for your video!
Excellent video discussing and demonstrating what and how of sharpening hook knives. Thank you Jonas.
Jonas, I feel like I'm late to your video you having made and posted this over 3 years ago. I do hope you are still carving and maintaining this channel since you have produced an excellent tutorial on curved blade sharpening. I have several curved spoon blades in need of sharpening and I've acquired everything you mention in the video to give it a go myself. I have a question about the material you have used to cover the round dowel that you used to remove the wire edge on the inside of the blade at about 19:30 in your video. Is that also smooth leather with a polishing compound applied? I would appreciate any replies from you or your community if anyone is so inclined and has the time to entertain a very old man trying to make use of his spare time in retirement. Thank you!
Hi, on that dowel he has a very thin suede leather coated in polishing compound.
I find that a firm leather without much give in it works best, such as kangaroo leather.
Thank you very much Joey and Macka!
It means a lot and I feel so happy and fortunate that you find this video helpful.
Many things have happened since this video: we brought another kid to the world (5 in total), changed job a few times and ended up with my dream job. Making spoons and woodturning was fun, but not possible regarding income. So now I just carve now and then and hopefully one day, I find the time and energy to make videos again ❤️🤞🏻
@@formgjortbyJonasAls
Congratulations on the new child! (And the dream job) omg, 5 kids… I hope your dream job pays handsomely 😂👍 All the best and thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos, I’m sure they were very helpful to many of us 🍻
LOVE the Tormec paste! I've been using it for 18+ years
Thank you Jonas for showing.
Fantastic video!! I can’t wait to see if I can do it. My spoon knife feels like I’m trying to carve a spoon 🥄 with a spoon 🥄!! Thank you 🙏🏼
😂
Good Show, cheers Jonas!
Thanks a lot ;)
You give an excellent and detailed explanation of edge geometry principles that can be applied to most/all other knives as well. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thankyou for showing me how to upgrade my mora spoon knife.
You’re welcome Granma Bern :)
Best video on the subject I have ever seen! Thank you ! I am a old school person thanks
Nice video, thanks for all the information. What sort of bevel angle to you aim for on these knives? I know it is convex and you are doing it by hand, but I’m worried when I sharpen hook knives that I am rounding it a bit too much. Knowing approximately how much to angle the sandpaper would be a great help! Thanks !
You said about doing this in my living room. If I did this, my wife would shove that knife where the sun doesn't shine and I would definitely have tears in my eyes.
Thank you Jonas, i'm beginner & your's lessons for sharpenning is best for me on TH-cam
thank you for explaining it in a way i understand .thank you .
Thanks for showing us. Take care.
You're welcome Quinn :)
What type of leather do you wrap around the dowel for finishing the inside
You sharpened the mora on the outside bevel, how would you sharpen the Hans Karlsen spoon knife?
Thank you! Subscribed.
Bonjour et merci de cette vidéo instructive et très utile. Ôter le biseau est assez convaincant. Les copeaux sont plus grands et en effet plus lisses. Pourquoi alors Mora vend-il des couteaux croche biseauté, ainsi que les couteaux droits de sculpture biseautés ?
Il est assez compliqué d’affûter un couteau croche à la pierre. Votre technique paraît préférable. Merci pour vos retours et pour le partage.
Michèle
Thank you for sharing 👌. Totally off topic, but your beard looks great 👍
Sure buddy! Haha, thanks! I look super hobo now, because of the lockdown! :D
@Maurice Westerlaan +1
No homo
Would you suggest a more open hook knife for a beginner? Ive got one like the one shown around the 3 min mark.
Danke für die Demonstration.
Haben Sie auch ein Video in dem Sie Beavercraft, Mora, Robin Wood und Nick Westermann vergleichen
Very clear and precise advice. I’ll keep your video for reference. Many thanks. 8-)
Thank you, Tack så mycket. Merry Christmas.
Tack som fan Anders! ;) God jul til dig!
Thanks ❤🎉
WOW, tack så mycket🙏👍
Varsågod Mats, hoppasdet var användbart 😉
Great vid. Many thanks
Tak ven ;)
perfect video for me as a rookie!
Thanks for sharing. I think you should try some water or other wet moisture. You sand paper will work much better and for a much longer time.
Or is there a special reason why you use it dry?
Kind regards
I have whetstones.
May this would work as well?
briliant!
Thanks I needed to see that.
Glad to hear Mickey!
Are the grit paper just sandpaper? Or are they special knife sharpening grit paper?
Hey Albert
It’s sandpaper for metal. For polishing cars for example. You can find it in hardware stores, but mostly up to 1000 grit. You should as a minimum get 2500, and 5000 is best, followed by a leather stroping :)
If you have unsteady hands, how can you compensate for that? My spoon carving set is only factory sharp. My standard chisel/gouge set and mini set I got from yard sales. I don't want to end up rounding the edge.
You can compensate with practice, jigs, or use/develop sharpening techniques that work just for you ;). It's not a end of the world if your edges are rounded. Nothing ventured - nothing gained ;)
In one of their long instructional videos this summer, the Tormek guys sharpened a Mora spoon knife on the T-8. Have you done this, do you recommend?
I was actually at Tormek for a demonstration and meeting, when they were looking more into it. Well.. for the Mora 164 it’s okay.. for sure. For a lot of other tools the T8 does the job. But for spoonknives I ALWAYS recommend that you sharpen by hand.
I work as an ambassador for both Morakniv and Tormek so I know their tools and machines pretty good 😉
@@formgjortbyJonasAls Thanks! I have an early style Mora curved blade (the one with the sharp tip), that will make a good one for practice.
@@formgjortbyJonasAls and yes, I really like your Tormek videos. They are very helpful.
Where do you buy the sandpaper
Hewn&hone is the best place to buy ;)
Thanks
I am guilty of using 400 wet/dry and then going to 2000 wet/dry. (sad face) It is all I have to sharpen my Beavercraft knives with. Of course I think my strop leather is too thick also. This was very informative, thank you.
Hello sarah
That's a big gap for sure. Well, follow my lead on the grit steps, and you'll get nice results for sure.
I also recommend you to buy Moraknives instead of Beavercraft.. They are really bad quality tools, and the design is bad. Mora aren't expensive, nor the best but they are so much better.
After that, buy Robin Woods open and compound spoonknives.. And are you looking for better ones, go for Hans karlsson or Nic Westerman.
All the best!
@@formgjortbyJonasAls, I am a blade smith, and instead to forge my tool, I ordered and got one from the Beaver Craft.
After inspection, I found that blade is forged and quenched properly (around 55HRC). Handle is ergonomic and sturdy. It could cost me more to make it.
What did you mean by mentioning: "they are really bad quality tools?"
@@namentatic4978 The Beaver Craft Hook Knife has an incorrectly ground bevel, making the tool hard to use. Instead of a smooth slightly convex bevel, as you see in the better quality hand forged spoon knives in this video like the Hans Karlsson, the Beaver Craft is hollow ground with a sharp ridge running down the center of the blade. This presents the edge at the wrong angle to the work. Grinding off that ridge and correcting the concave bevel to slightly convex is difficult and a lot of work for someone who isn't a tool maker.
Better to spend the money on a properly made tool.
@stringworks1861
That makes sense. Lol not me, with my spoon carving kit from BC trying to find out how to make it good and sharp 😅
@@namentatic4978das würde mich auch interessieren
Seems so strange not to have a micro bevel along the edge at least from an edge retention stand point. But I guess I could be wrong. Time to give it a try I guess
When the pro does it, it seems easy. Then I try it, and it's still dull :( I may have gone over the edge too much, rounding it off (like a micro bevel on the outside). Now what? Just re-creating only a secondary bevel first with a rough grit trying to hold it as flat as possible? Or is that too much work for a beginner who has a hard time keeping consistent angles? It's quite a leap to go from just having a spoon knife to having to be able to keep it sharp: needing a bunch of sandpaper, needing a flat AND rounded strop, jeez. Does it take other people a long time to learn this too? Any advice?
Carve wet wood. It’s like carving soap. Any knife edge will work. That’s my plan so far! I also plan on finding someone to sharpen my knives for me. There is a guy in town who does knives and scissors in the back of his sewing machine store. He doesn’t charge a lot. If we hone our knive a few strops every fifteen minutes while carving they almost never need sharpening.
❤
👍👍🤠🤠
🤠👍
He bought a new one when he should have washed it in Champagne