Dayum, nice to see you again! Ltns lol. You had us in limbo there Angus you have to educate us amateurs , great video again ... Keep them coming, 1 to 2 a week would be great hehe...............also maybe some shooting and tips on aiming ect..... thx again Da best !
Sorry! 😂 I've been out of state and unable to put anything together! I'll try to get back on a schedule now that I'm back 🙂 We're all amateurs in here. students learn more than teachers. We can all learn something new from each other! 🙂 I would like to eventually put together something for shot set up, execution, and everything in-between. Haha I think that'll be the title. One of these days I'll get it right. 😆 Thanks for watching the Vid and the support! I appreciate you!
lancasterarchery.com/products/cdm-flitemate-hot-melt-glue-10-shop-stick That's the only hot melt that I use. it's worked so far so no point in switching. 🙂 God bless!
I thought that at one point also but the whole shear pin only weighs .9 grains. After you pull it through and cut off half you're only looking at about a half of a grain. I hope the video helped in some way! Thanks for watching! 🙂
Great video! Thanks for the entire process and explanation of each step. Question: 1. Do you ever place the arrow tip in a bowl of water after hot melt application to cool it off quicker? 2. When trying to achieve the same CTC length on all the shafts, what is your process? I sand by hand on a hard surface ( placing paper on table then lightly rub in a circle) then finish with squaring tool is that ok? 3. How do you check to make sure the ends are truly square?
Thank you and thanks for watching! To #1: Not to dry the tips inside the shafts! I do have a bowl of water that I use to cool the tips after I've removed them from shafts. I don't know if it's a good idea to mess with the hardening process of the hot melt so I just let it take it natural course. To #2 I'm assuming you're talking about when I cut all the arrows differently, how do I make all of the arrows the same length; The first thing I'll do is I'll cut all of the arrows that I only have to make one cut on. Then, for the arrows that need 2 cuts, I divide the length that I need to cut off into 2, Then make a mark on both sides of the arrow at that length (I usually subtract about a 16th of an inch from the length to account for the arrow saw blade width). Then I'll make my first cut on all the arrows that need 2 cuts. Now that I have my first cut made I will take one of the arrows that only needed 1 cut and put it in the saw (saw is off) and match the next cut to those first arrows that I cut the full length off of. To #3 As far as squaring goes, I just use an arrow squaring tool. I'm not exactly sure how to check the square though. Might be something to consider. I hope that helps 🙂 if not let me know and I'll see if I can explain it differently.
Really enjoy your videos man, great information, and I love how you involve God in them as well, that's awesome! Keep up the good work and God bless you and your family! ✝️🏹👍
Well, Angus. A really detailed arrow build for sure. So, why in the world would you use those goofy broadheads? If they can't even get the weight right you're gonna trust them to function??? Why not a great quality fixed head on Bear? Seriously, I am pulling your chain. I mean like you're probably gonna have like a 25 yard shot? 👍👍👀
No that's an awesome question. I use those broadheads because they are a neutral or zero profile head. That arrow was my "everything arrow" I wanted something that would perform well at any distance including at long distance. A fixed blade would be more durable but also adds "fletches", "wings", or "vanes" to the front of the arrow which gives the front of the arrow steering capabilities. When you add that type of steering to the front of the arrow (at longer distances especially) any mistake that you make is amplified at impact because the front "wings" on the arrow influence the arrow into the mistake instead of away from it. Since my plan is to hunt out west, I wanted something that could give me good results for any situation without having to change arrows and re-tune my whole setup.
Great video
Thanks, I appreciate it! 🙂
Dayum, nice to see you again! Ltns lol. You had us in limbo there Angus you have to educate us amateurs , great video again ... Keep them coming, 1 to 2 a week would be great hehe...............also maybe some shooting and tips on aiming ect..... thx again Da best !
Sorry! 😂 I've been out of state and unable to put anything together! I'll try to get back on a schedule now that I'm back 🙂
We're all amateurs in here. students learn more than teachers. We can all learn something new from each other! 🙂
I would like to eventually put together something for shot set up, execution, and everything in-between. Haha I think that'll be the title. One of these days I'll get it right. 😆 Thanks for watching the Vid and the support! I appreciate you!
If you throw a shear pin on the grain scale with the broadhead does that bring it to 120 grains?
Guess I should have read all the comments first.
No problem! I thought that at first but the shear pin only weighs about .5 grains.
What’s the best hot melt you’ve found?
lancasterarchery.com/products/cdm-flitemate-hot-melt-glue-10-shop-stick
That's the only hot melt that I use. it's worked so far so no point in switching. 🙂
God bless!
How much does a practice clip weigh?
0.5 grains on average
I guess you have to weight the BHs with the sheer pin to get to the 120 gn...
I thought that at one point also but the whole shear pin only weighs .9 grains. After you pull it through and cut off half you're only looking at about a half of a grain.
I hope the video helped in some way! Thanks for watching! 🙂
Great video! Thanks for the entire process and explanation of each step.
Question:
1. Do you ever place the arrow tip in a bowl of water after hot melt application to cool it off quicker?
2. When trying to achieve the same CTC length on all the shafts, what is your process?
I sand by hand on a hard surface ( placing paper on table then lightly rub in a circle) then finish with squaring tool is that ok?
3. How do you check to make sure the ends are truly square?
Thank you and thanks for watching!
To #1:
Not to dry the tips inside the shafts! I do have a bowl of water that I use to cool the tips after I've removed them from shafts. I don't know if it's a good idea to mess with the hardening process of the hot melt so I just let it take it natural course.
To #2
I'm assuming you're talking about when I cut all the arrows differently, how do I make all of the arrows the same length; The first thing I'll do is I'll cut all of the arrows that I only have to make one cut on. Then, for the arrows that need 2 cuts, I divide the length that I need to cut off into 2, Then make a mark on both sides of the arrow at that length (I usually subtract about a 16th of an inch from the length to account for the arrow saw blade width). Then I'll make my first cut on all the arrows that need 2 cuts.
Now that I have my first cut made I will take one of the arrows that only needed 1 cut and put it in the saw (saw is off) and match the next cut to those first arrows that I cut the full length off of.
To #3
As far as squaring goes, I just use an arrow squaring tool. I'm not exactly sure how to check the square though. Might be something to consider.
I hope that helps 🙂 if not let me know and I'll see if I can explain it differently.
Really enjoy your videos man, great information, and I love how you involve God in them as well, that's awesome! Keep up the good work and God bless you and your family! ✝️🏹👍
Thank you man, I really appreciate it! Thanks for watching them!
God bless y'all as well! 🙂
What degree offset and which direction on these?
I got these set at a 2° offset and to the left. The was the natural spin of the arrow on these
Well, Angus. A really detailed arrow build for sure. So, why in the world would you use those goofy broadheads? If they can't even get the weight right you're gonna trust them to function??? Why not a great quality fixed head on Bear? Seriously, I am pulling your chain. I mean like you're probably gonna have like a 25 yard shot? 👍👍👀
No that's an awesome question.
I use those broadheads because they are a neutral or zero profile head.
That arrow was my "everything arrow" I wanted something that would perform well at any distance including at long distance. A fixed blade would be more durable but also adds "fletches", "wings", or "vanes" to the front of the arrow which gives the front of the arrow steering capabilities.
When you add that type of steering to the front of the arrow (at longer distances especially) any mistake that you make is amplified at impact because the front "wings" on the arrow influence the arrow into the mistake instead of
away from it.
Since my plan is to hunt out west, I wanted something that could give me good results for any situation without having to change arrows and re-tune my whole setup.