How-to short: Cleaning up sprue marks and mould lines on plastic Primaris Space Marines (WH40K)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- Have you ever had a sprue attachment point smack bang in the middle of a detail on a plastic model? These can be challenging to neatly remove and restore a good finish to the part. If so this video could be of assistance where I demonstrate how to carefully remove plastic parts from sprues and clean up the mould line using part of a Primaris Space Marine from the Dark Imperium boxed set.
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• Primaris Space Marine ...
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I know its an old video. But recently having getting into tabletop, and the annoyance I have with sprue chunks and mold lines, I greatly appreciate this video.
Thank you, that’s very kind and you are welcome :)
Some people love the painting, some love the gaming, but for me, THIS is the most therapeutic and enjoyable part of the hobby. Cleaning up, building and converting is my zen zone.
I come home from work and spend hours doing the same
Jsh Pk Very cool mate, and an interesting thought as well. We all need a way to find some headspace and model building is a good way of doing this. I spend my days at work on computers, the phone, presenting, driving etc. but I find that doing some building is a good way to wind down from a pressured job. I'll keep carefully placing videos in this little online Zen garden. Thanks for watching :)
Yup, its very therapeutic. Its the part of the hobby I enjoy most.
I know what you mean, and yeah, in a way it is, but I think of it as an unnecessary production flaw that I now have to fix, unlike painting/building which is actually creating something...sigh
@@leakycheese Can you help me I am building the new necron warriors and there are extremely ugly sprue bits right next to very fragile wires, because GW's sprue designing team does not seem to be very good at their job. I tried to use my mold line remover, tried to use the flat side of the Clippers, but still. Also by any chance how do I separate push fit necrons, I assembled one but I want to disassemble him but his stupid body does not get off, one of his arms is really flimsy too so I want to add a little glue where it connects but I need to take away the body. Overall quality of these warriors for me seems 3/10 sculpt is decent but the sprue bits and push fit is garbage.
Old but Gold. Learned a lot. Thanks for the video
I'm like this with my minis. Spend hours building each one 'just right', obsessing over details. The people at my club don't understand why it takes me so long to get things built! Great video, I subscribed because of it.
+Alec Denholm I hope you find good company here at this channel, thanks for subscribing!
If I could add one small suggestion: when sanding sprue nubs on curved surfaces, be sure to move the sand stick or paper in a circular motion, not just back and forth. Imagine you're polishing a glass dome with a terry cloth. Straight back and forth runs the risk of leaving a flat plane on the curved surface that shows up more easily after you paint it. A circular polishing motion that follows the curve avoids this.
Wicked video. Hard to find good videos on the subject, so VURY appreciate.
They really picked the perfect spot for that sprue attachment point... I've been really impressed with the molds you've detailed from this box set so far but wow... this one triggers me so bad :) Good work cleaning up that mess... it really is a pain to sort out on a curved surface like this.
+Harris Blankenship This one was particularly obnoxious, I hope this video takes you to a safe modelling space ;) Cheers mate and thanks for watching :)
Just started building 40K minis. This video is a lifesaver. Thank you!
You're most welcome Jeff, welcome to the 40K building hobby and I'm glad the video was helpful.
The parts of the Sprue are the Sprue itself which are the thicker usually square excess plastic that runs around the entire outside and to major sections of the sprue. The the thinner sections are called runners and go from the sprues to the actual parts. The section where the part is attached to the runners is called either a gate or gateway. When you cut the part from the sprue, you are cutting at the gate. Whats left on the part onces its been removed is commonly called a gate nub (gate mark or projection).
I nearly didn't watch this video thinking that it's not for me but, boy, I'm glad that I did! Thanks Mr Cheese. I had the pauldron problem of snipping as close as humanly possible to the pad - never thought about it being easier to clean up by leaving that little bit of frame on it
2:35 This never occurred to me but was super helpful. Thank you so much.
You're most welcome :)
I really really enjoy cleaning mold lines up sometimes I have a craving to do it and will just get into things in spare parts bins if I know it has a high probability of being used in the future. I find it almost therapeutic and I really enjoyed watching you do so. You have a fine attention to detail like myself and I appreciate it! Thanks for the satisfying watch!
Can imagine why you enjoy it. It can become hypnotic.
Personally, I find it a huge pain, especially on very soft plastic. I cut off the immediate flash but it just ‘fuzzes up’, creating something worse than the flash itself! Aside from exceptionally laboured trimming with the Exacto blade the only way to remove this seems to be with a heated needle.
I've found great success using a dental pick for cleaning away mould lines. My hands tend to getting a bit jittery sometimes, and I either worry about cutting myself, or get chatter-marks when using the backside of the blade. Although it's safer, it's considerably slowwer.
The other advantage I've found is that it's easier to get into nooks and crannies, like the back spine protrusions on genestealers. So, even if you prefer using a hobby knife most of the time, I'd still suggest adding one to your toolkit.
+Skipper Bruhn That's a great idea I appreciate that you shared this. I'm going to go and pick up a pick for my modelling kit now! Thanks for watching :)
you must have patience of a saint
Many have observed so.... perhaps there is truth in the statement.
I never thought to go into the shoulder pad outline. Ya with the slightly bigger models it is even easyer to do that. I just love 40k. I have for years. Thanks for sharing something I thought I knew lol.
I’m starting the “Dusty Brush Fan Club”!
This guide was great. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
+cordial001 You're welcome mate, if have any other ideas for a short like this let me know and I'll what I can do. Thanks for watching :)
Thanks for this
Excellent video fella. These models have needed A LOT of clean-up before they look respectable.
One thing I'd recommend having in your arsenal (especially if you've been putting together Gunpla kits) is a nail block. Those little foam blocks you see in the likes of Superdrug or Boots. They're cheap and give you a coarse file, fine file, polish & buff in one neat package. As they're designed for nails they're not overly harsh on plastic and they're flexible enough to do awkward surfaces.
One thing I've learned when prepping plastic as opposed to resin is that plastic is far less forgiving than resin when it comes to texture. It might fly in the face of logic, but polishing the larger/smoother surfaces works wonders after they've been filed. Even the finest of files still leave abrasions, which even when painted can stick out like a sore prick at a wedding on larger areas. A nail block will make short work of this.
+chikhai Cheers mate, agreed 100% that these are demanding from a clean up perspective and I completely agree with you about plastic vs. resin. Resin is far easier and more forgiving on the clean-up front, plastic is like the special snowflake of the wargaming miniature materials in this regard.
That's a good tip on the nail block, that's a nice accessible way of getting a good quality tool for plastic polishing. I did get something similar in a set of Flexi-file sanding pads I bought, but these are harder to get and have to be bought in a more expensive set.
Thanks for the top-tip and watching :)
Roughly the same as I do, nice video
You Sir are a bloody godsend 👍
It's Nice Tutorial. Thanks.
Good stuff mate😉
+Jan Gunnar Cheers buddy, got another one ready for tomorrow ;)
leakycheese sorry for asking this here: i have decided to buy the Atrapos, but want do you think about ACASTUS KNIGHT PORPHYRION? I wonder if i should order them both or something else. i always buy for at least 250, so if you have a better "get experience for the ultimate warlord titan challenge"-practice, i gladly buy what you say are good training😉 sorry if this are wrong place to ask but had to ask😊 look forward to your next "mr. myagi class"....so get ready to wax on and off people😅
+Jan Gunnar The Knight Porphyrion is an incredible model but I'd still recommend the Atrapos as a better learning kit for the Warlord as the arm assemblies are quite different to the big beast. If you have the cash then why not! Another thing worth considering is FW are currently doing a couple of bundle deals on knight titans, a 10% discount if buy one of each of the Mechanicum Knights (I'd buy the Knight Magaera off you if you didn't want it lol). Just one thing, I almost missed this comment, might be better to send me an email rather than replying to a reply as the notification system doesn't always feed them through to me :)
you spend so much time cleaning up those mold lines. XD would take eons to do a whole army with that precise level of mold removal. heehee
Each to their own, for me nothing ruins the look of a well painted model than a dirty big mould line slicing through the detail.
mould line removal is somthing i dont see discussed all that much in warhammer modelling videos for years i just used my knife and a brush to remove mould lines.. then i got into scale modelling and discovered a wealth of techniques and tools that dramatically improve the finish / look of your models this is how i know eavy metal has been lying for year about using different tools theres no way you can get the quality of finish you see on the boxes with just a knife mould line remover and a rough sanding stick i also use wet n dry sandpaper aswell and various types of sandable filler / primer which are better than green stuff any day of the week for gap filling sorry for the wall fo text but literally nobody in the warhammer community talks about this lol
same thing with undercoating the models the gw studio show you in tutorials im 99 percent sure theyre either always hand undercoated or done with an airbrush almost impossible to get the lovely smooth yet slightly textured undercoat in their vids with a rattle can i know for a fact that makes paint go on pretty much the way lord duncan shows us in their videos
+powerwolf1097 \m/ I think those are all good points regarding Warhammer TV. I think it is a good thing that Lord Duncan et. al. are doing demos to try share hobby skills with the gaming community. However, we all must remember that Warhammer TV is a paid media operation and they are part of business that has to return a commercial result on their financial investment.
Filling, painting etc. all these things are set up on WH TV to sell product. I can remember back in the late 80's White Dwarves reading an 'Evey Metal article on model prep and the article showed the use of Milliput to do the filling. Likewise on the painting, all the artists I see at open days doing demos are using airbrushes to do area work.
That's why the independent modelling community on YT and other social media is so valuable - content that shows it exactly how it is and realistic ways to work.
Thanks for taking your time to share those
Thoughts :)
thank you for replying to my rant lol i agree with the majority of what you said however i just think new hobbists should be told the truth straight away rather than (inevetablly) find out on the net when they start to be become intermediate- semi pro painters theres a simple soloution here that would serve gw well i think partner up with an established manufacturers of the products they dont sell and pay them a price to put the gw logo on it everybody would win that way gw the hobbist and whoever theyve contracted to supply the product id love to see a decent gw branded iwata airbrush in stores or online order youd pay more for it of course because its gw ..but im fairly certain the benefits to the hobby would outweigh those negatives - theyve done partnerships that nobody seems to know about before with paints and tools so it could deffinately happen :)
some examples coat d arms paints (almost ) vallejo paints which went on to become game colour instead after they changed their mind about that partnership fairly certain olfa hobby blades uses at one point in the citadel knife minus the logo and of course the recent out the open partnership with revell with the battle of vedros stuff those are the ones i know of .. probally alot more
+powerwolf1097 \m/ I don't disagree with you but as I say GW are a publicly owned UK business so are very focused on returning a good profit and therefore shareholder dividends. It is best to adjust one's expectations and not expect honesty from GW because that is not they are interested in doing.
One thing to understand is how businesses like GW work.... they actually make really good margins on selling paint, tools and accessories to their captive audience i.e. a person who goes into a shop to buy some figures. These margins are probably better in percentage terms than the miniatures offer and certainly require risk and investment and don't pose IP management legal challenges. Their staff are well trained on the upsell technique as well, Warhammer TV is a further extension of this approach.
I would always advise buying tools from independent and specialist suppliers as they are typically as good if not better quality, greater choice available and more cheaply priced. They will typically keep a whole range of tools that GW don't stock but are very useful.
Those Revell partnerships are interesting because few people in the WH community know about them. That is no accident because GW has seen a market sector that they did not have a presence in so did a collaboration to get into it, clearly they don't want regular WH40K gamers buying those models instead of the GW branded range.
How do you clean the little fins in plasma guns and the rails in the guns? I find it very difficult to clean guns and small part, maybe you could do a video about that, this one has helped me a lot.
Thank you!
+Evelio Mora Cool mate, glad it has helped you out. Great idea for another short - cleaning fins and picatinny rails, keep an eye for a video on that over the next few days. Thanks for watching :)
Great job, man! 👍🏻
Any tips on removing mold lines from parts that are smaller/straighter? Like the barrel of las guns, or between the black carapace (behind the knees).
I use a scalpel blade for mould lines in small l, hard to get to places. Use it to carefully scrape away the mould line, don't cut.
Heck, I hate mould lines...I could spend so much more time painting if it wasn't for the damn lines...ribbed cables are THE WORST! ;(
I know you posted this a couple years ago and probally have it long figured out by now but when I’m doing ribbed stuff like cables or the back of the knee joints on space marines I use a dulled hobby knife pulling away with a little bit of pressure
Do you have a tricks or tips for cleaning up the bottoms of marine bolter magazines? Also i found this video really useful just to see some one else do it. Thanks
+Nathan Anderson I do a bit of filing but it is mainly knife work on the base of the bolter magazines. I've got a few more to do so will film a short for you doing a demo of the clean up. Thanks for watching :)
Necron heads are the friggin devil with mould mark removal
A sprue did one of my csm dirty.
I'm really scratching my head over this, can you buy non-sharp knife blades or would you have to blunt them yourself if you don't have any and if so, how? Really appreciate your content here, I'm just getting into the hobby and without your help I'd be completely lost. Cheers!
+K The knife started sharp and I used it until it got blunt (being careful not to break the tip). I used it for normal cleanup work on miniatures, nothing special really.
I'm not sure if you have seen it but I did a video on all the tools I have a few months, it might be interesting for you: th-cam.com/video/fmpoVuX1BOg/w-d-xo.html
Glad to hear you are finding the videos useful and thanks for watching :)
One thing I've used as a mould line remover was the blunt edge of the blade by just rotating the tool 180 degrees.
Hello @leaky cheese so when your cleaning up your model. And you make a Mistake. you leave little scrap marks or maybe you took I tiny to much of with your knife. I put liquid green stuff on the area and it let it set. Than just filed it away with a high grit sandpaper. And it left it prefect. Basically the green stuff filled the scratches and Small indentations. What’s your expert opinion
Liquid green stuff from GW? Or any specific brand?
If it works for you then go with the technique 👍
It’s not an issue I really come across... on resin models I’ll just sand it smooth. On plastic I’ll do the same and then use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to level the surface and melt away burrs.
LGS isn’t a product I’ve ever used. It was designed as a stop-gap solution for repairing faults in early Finecast models. I’ve watched a fair few demo videos and have noticed it suffers from shrinkage so I wouldn’t use it when Milliput, Kneadatite and even superglue don’t have these issues.
But as I say, if it works for you then go with it 😊
any tips for those that have senstive finger tips? i was doing this all day and my thumb tip is bruised
You could try a rubber thimble?
I've got to say, the moulding was pretty sub par on this kit
Luke Feeney I'm fine with it apart from Primaris sprue B which is demonstrably less well produced. Thanks for watching :)
+Red Sampler Fair point, to put my view in context my comparison is comparing against the models from the Burning of Prospero game.
You are right to point the mould lines running down the front of the legs but these seem to be consequence of the complex shape of these models which have been designed as easy-build with a low part count.
On the BoP sprues I felt there were comparable mould lines to Primaris sprues A & F but the kits had more parts which allowed each to have a more optimum orientation to hide mould lines along the edges of armour plates etc.
That said I think I won't get any further models from these sprues as they were slow builds if you do all the clean up. Thanks for watching :)
Not to be critical, but almost all of the gate nub and mould line can be removed with a single X-acto knife and a sharp #11 blade. I find files to be completely redundant with plastics, and really should only be used with metal minis. If you have good knife skills, a polishing stick isnt even needed on such small surfaces. It just seems like you are using far too many tools and steps that can all be done with a good hobby knife.
Please dont take my post here badly, having more videos like this is a good thing, and I think its the one area the hobby is lacking for in good tutorials. EVERYONE does things differently, I know I do. While there are no one "right way" to do things, there are definitely "better" ways. Learning is 70% of this hobby.
+Assembly_Language I don't find a knife sufficient to restore a smooth continuous surface on miniatures like these, any knife cut creates flat surface in at least one plane which isn't consistent with the form of the pauldron so hence the use of the file. The polishing stick is for a super-smart finish so a show of what can be done.
This is a technique I part picked up building Gundam where the aim is preserve the plastic colour so removing the mould lines and restoring the smooth finish is a challenge. I've seen guys way more experienced than I on such kits use various materials like medical dressings to polish out the finest scratches and create a perfect finish. Thanks for watching :)