Simple Device. I recommend Max 120 VOC 40 amps for the 60amp version. Always use 2x 10 gauge wire to the battery and from the PV. The Solar side needs DC breakers and the Battery also needs a Bigger DC Breaker. Not much going on inside. Never max this controller out it will fry. The reason I say 120VOC is to keep the internal temps down. Flip the fan around to blow cool air on the components. You would never fan a fan away from you to cool down right? Do NOT use solid copper wire. That is for AC application Only! Always use multi braided strand copper to allow better power travel. If you mount this controller to a wall You will need a spacer behind it to allow for max heat dissipation. This controllers simple build will last for 2 to 5 years before it quits. Again always treat the 60 Amp model like a 40 amp. As for 150 VOC incoming and forcing the MPPT side to bring it down to a lower voltage your going to create a ton of heat. Reducing how you series your Panels will benefit. For those that operate this under 120 VOC expect a longer life span and less problems down the road. This has PV reverse polarity 100% but, it does NOT have reverse battery polarity and may severely damage the unit. This charge controller will melt in a ball of fire and never shut it self off if it over heats.
Yeah fanning a fan away is a thing, especially in electronic components in close compartments: heat sinks, vents, etc. Pulls hot air away and blows it out, creating a vacuum that pulls cool air in. Cars and house roofs also do this.
@@MuhammadWaqas-bs2xw DC Breaker from Pv1,100 watts to solar charger @80 vlts = 13.88amps so 20 amp PV breakers will work. Breaker for batteries is a lot more. Here are battery voltage calculations if they apply to your setup. 1,100 watts PV to 12 volt dc battery 91.67 amps thus would would need 100 amp fuse. For 24 volt batteries it would be 45.83 amps so a 60 amp fuse. For 48 volt battery setup 22.92 amps would need 30 amp fuse DC.
My setup is 4,000w PV to a 48v lithium battery. I use 80 amp fuse on the hot wire to battery. Yes the calculations would be 83.33 amps but, I never pull in more than 3,800 watts = 79.17 amps. My Mppt is set to cut off at 60 amps. Flexmax FM 80 outback has this feature. I have 6 cells. Each 12s cellpack is further redundant protected by (6) 100 amp BMS
I like the hardware and it's the cheapest 60amp MPPT I've seen. Uses 2 separate buck converters 180 phase difference, smartest way I know. Installing a sync. rect. circuit would make it perfect energywise. I discovered solar cells are 200% efficient at charging as compared to Line powered 95% switching charger. 200v .09 ohm fets and 4 Schottkey diodes on each phase. fets diodes have special/fake markings. TO247 style on both
Hello. Whith LIFEPO4 batteries? And have you managed to set a limit in charging?? Because if you cannot set up a limit in charging it is a big problem((
@@nikowingchun1351 IT DOES NOT WORK; you set the limit, do all as per the Manual, and it IGNORES it, and goes on charging; have one for a year now, i repair inverters, and it DOES NOT WORK; the only thing that saves the batteries is the BMS; what a shame
I cite someone who knows how it works which is also in the instructions. "Important: For programming information to be retained by the controller you must disconnect the Solar power input from the controller. Once the unit has been programmed confirm that it has the information stored by disconnecting the battery connection. The controller will always boot up by running the fan momentarily, finally check to ensure the parameters you set have been retained."
Programming change procedure: 1. Edit Prog values. 2. Solar breaker on/off, leave off 3. Battery breaker off, wait 5 seconds to display off, then battery breaker back on. 4. Check prog are still changed. 5. Solar breaker ON.
@@thedavesofourlives1 you are absolutely right. Someone has used it for years. I only used it for a short time, never applied to high power situations (340w charging at 60v from pv). The fan never started once. I even forgot about it and left it in light rain for one night. It still works. I was told that this is an older version of the makeskyblue model. But that model is almost twice as expensive (still cheap compared with others). I also bought a makeskyblue model 118. I will make a video comparing the two when I have a chance.
@@josephdewuhan to summarize, it will not take the changes until the unit is shut down completely, but it is always safest to disconnect the panels first before the battery.
I have been using this charge controller for 2 years and ive had no problems it heats up and fan comes on it cools down its had no problems never skipped at beat in hot or cold , I even bought another one for another setup this time 24v not 12v i have every faith in this product and there is nothing dangerous about it.
Find 12vdc or preferably 6-7vdc in the device. Buy a suitable 12vdc pc fan. Piggyback source, replace the original crappy fan. If at 12vdc add a resistor to make it silent like at 6vdc. Noctua the expensive range has all you need. This will stop the annoying on-off and minimize temp fluctuations. Also extend fan operation.
The design of the unit fan could be better if they made fan slowly turn on according to temperature via thermistor, rather than strict ON/OFF (40C/35C) Also the unit does not have an Equalization mode, only bulk and float. BUT it is real MPPT, so that makes up for design flaws.
Honestly I have 0 problems so far with it and even used it as a car jump started by feeding 84v at 10A on solar side to give the 12v car battery a head start and well been using it as a solar charge controller and as my UPS for 24v system it's been working no problem
my PowMr also overload the battery compared to the settings, but only a little. I have Li-Ion. My settings are: d01=d02=12.2, d04=01 It loads my battery to 49.2V (should only load to 12.2*4=48.8V) then the mode goes from 3(mppt) -> 7(float) and charge current goes down. I believe the voltage reading is not calibrated. Like you see: PowMr displays 10A load current, gauge says 9A load. A 10% mismatch. On my PowMr I see the same mismatch. 10-20% more amps are displayed than actually loaded. But overall this device is very good (for only 120€ shipped). I can charge at nearly full 60A. Heat is a problem, for this I added a CPU heatpipe cooler to the back with a separate 120mm fan.
I have 2x PowMR units, and each has a variation in voltage accuracy of between 0.3 and 0.6 volts on the same length of wire to batteries. The better controllers seem to have a "sense" wire that more accurately reads battery voltage through a separate small wire that doesn't carry a load and thus has no voltage drop losses.
I added a heatsink on the back to reduce fan use and dust collection. also I added polypropylene caps in paralell to the electrolytics as these are not rated for the ripple current, even when operated in the 3phase interleaved mode. the 30 and 40A rated units only have 2 channels populated. the ripple current is minimal when operated at Vin=1.5x vout. so try to put that number of panels in series. I have the original makeskyblue version, but no-one knows who is actually designing/making this ..
Although each manufacturer claims the other copied their product, the PowerMr and Makeskyblue are very different inside. also their menu options are not identical.
@@MrVeryCranky The manufacturer of the metal enclosure may have sold that to several companies (I have seen at least 10 of the same box and display with different names) so the box is cheaper for them.
@@MrVeryCranky It's like MSB is complaining that Powmr copied their product, but really they copied only the look. I would never buy a MSB (if they are even sold anymore), but this Powmr 60A looks legit and I have one on the way to replace a Renogy Rover 40 (which looks like a Rich Solar, new model Powmr, etc).
Nice review. Yes it is a big problem if the charge controller doesn;t have a voltage limit in charging the batteries. But i just got this model and in my LIFEPO4 batteries, (i just tested it with 12v system) and the limit is working. I put the D02 at 13,7 and when it goes up to 13,7 it stops charging the batteries. (no matter that the manual says that it doesn't apply in LIFEPO4). Maybe in a 48v system you put a limit of D02 ---> 13.7v and it automatically cuts it of at 54,8v?? Maybe because you have the limit very low it just ignores it?
1 .Do not stack in the wall ... Use something to keep dinsttans like m10 Rusk .... 2 do not plug panel if first don setup first setup after connect the battery this happens to set up MOSFET... MOSFET its in the back thats i tell your keep dinstans from the walls... Manu profile its not setup correctly use flooded and setup the voltage and after conect hte pv panel.... Thenks for your time
After completing all setting changes you have to disconnect the solar, then disconnect the battery.. Then when you reconnect the battery the new settings will take effect.
I tried ALL that as per the Manual; DOES NOT WORK; very POORLY built, DOES NOT CUTOFF charging at the volts you programmed it!!!! IF the BMS does not cut OFF, IT MAY GET YOUR HOUSE ON FIRE.
Ok, I received my own unit of PowMr today. I tested this right away. I found that it does cut off at the set voltage at d02 when choosing lithium at d04. It cuts off slowly and stops at 0.2A which is not really charging. I know for sure because I was using a bike charger to serve as the solar panel. When it is charging the led is red when it stops charging the led turns green. It turns green at my own pre-set voltage of 13.8v. You were wrong saying that it did not work or your unit didn't work which is unlikely. Another youtuber confirmed this to me a while ago. He used it for several years now. This is indeed an older and cheaper version of it. The later versions 118 or later are better (still quite cheap though). Please visit th-cam.com/video/LLFYDVO9Wx8/w-d-xo.html
But you have LIFEPO4 batteries? Because i also tested it with 12v system and it does cutt off the charging. But what if the system is bigger? e.g. 48v? does it multiply it?
It depends on the type of lithium battery. If it is lithium ion (e.g. 18650) or Lipo, a fully charged cell could be at 4.2V (i.e. 4.2x16=67.2V). If it is LiFePo4, a fully charge cell could safely be at 3.6V (i.e. 3.6x16=57.6V). So, in any case, setting it at multiples of 12.5V is safe for all lithium batteries. However, if the cells are not balanced, individual cells can be charge to a voltage level higher than allowed. That is when danger can occur, especially for Lipo and Li-ion batteries. You might be smelling the burn of new paint/and or leftover oil on the surface of the unit?
Agree on MAX voltage, but I would expect charger to stop charging battery when it reached defined voltage.. BMS would still protect battery, but I do expect charger to do what it's suppose todo. Thanks for details!
@@SolarEngineering You have to REBOOT after each change in settings! i.e. disconnect batter. make sure u disc panels first then battery then reconnect battery and setting works
I am testing a 60A POWMr... Looking at the cell charge settings... The controller settings range only displays 11v to 17v. So if using li-ion pack in a 7s config and ideally wanting a max charge of 4.1v per cell (28.7V battery) Seems like I can't use this controller? Not sure if I am misunderstanding the maxV setting. I guess I could change the battery to a 4S2P config and use a cell setting of 16.8v My battery is built with 3.6v 120ah li-ion modules. I already have a 7S BMS and a 24v inverter so was hoping to be able to stay in the 7S config.
@@TuCarb Yes, you can only set the value between 11 to 17v. But for 24v batteries, the actual setting should be the doubled value. For 7s li-ion batteries , the max value is 14.7v which is 29.4v for 24v batteries. But I usually set it at 14.5v. PowMr is an older and much less expensive version (about $75 on aliexpress). The other one called MakeSkyBlue is an improved product (about $120?) on which you directly set 29v for a 7s battery. I have both and like both of them for their price and flexibility in applying to different situations.They are both made cheap but both work fine in my opinion.
@@josephdewuhan Thanks for that info. Ive read the manual several times but never saw anything about (24v double the value). I will try it at 14.2v and keep a monitor on the power exchange and cutoff.
Is it possible to tune this Solarcharger? It doesn´t charge my 24V Lifepo4. I connected 2 JaSolar in parallel and 35,2 V are obviosly not enough to start MPPT. Connecting the PV-modules in serial works. Any idea?
Подскажите пожалуйста, показывает только входной вольтаж и сколько есть на акб. Индикация заряда вроде идёт но не заряжает и не показывает колличество ватт и ампер которые приходят, скачет вольтаж 27-60 система собрана на 24в и два акб по12. Контакты паяные норм, показывает 4 режим работы.
I don't waste time or money on these cheap things anymore.. you get what you pay for. I know some of of the other brands like victron are way over priced but in the long run it may be worth it
Both the PowMr and the MakeSkyBlue units should be mounted off of the surface behind them. 2 or three washers under the screws holding it to the surface will help with the air circulation under the units. The Al case serves as part of the heatsink.
nice review, however may I ask what batteries you were using please (chemistry and configuration) as I didn't see that mentioned? I really like your independent BMS that featured quickly in the video, is there another video which explores that and the battery it is working with?
@@SolarEngineering th-cam.com/video/UBITt7vrn3k/w-d-xo.html please watch this video and talk to the 1st commentator of that video. I'm curious about it because I ordered the same unit which is still on its way to me.
Hey, I have PowMr MPPT 60A solar charge controller and 2 batteries solar battery 100Ah 12V EXACT DCS. Which values should I enter for parameters: d01 d02 and d03. Data from solar battery: Trickle charge: 13.6V - 13.8V Type: lead-acid Maximum end-of-charge voltage: 14.6-14.8V? Many greetings
in my research i learned lead acid batterys do the boil thing at 14.3 volts. they love 13,2 trickle charge to maintain them. i like the 14.6 for absortion charge too
Savings on buying a PowMr will turn into a huge loss for you when you sort out the smoking wreckage of your burnt house. I miraculously avoided it. My inverter only lasted 2 weeks. Yours may last a year or two, but do you want to live on a powder keg?
You could say that about any product. For instance the Outback controllers could burn your house down for $450 whereas it would only cost you $85 to burn your house down with a PowMr.
@@MrDoingEverything I just tested it for a few hours. Few people reported here in comments that it works well for 2+ years and counting. I'm going to perform a more detailed test in the future.
One question, the load disconnects after the battery gets bellow the pre defined voltage on D03 setting. Do you know when it reconnects? It needs to be a manual thing? Is it when the battery is full again?
Load side is set for 12v and should be used for resistive load of 100watts only( generally for lights and no inductive load) and it's independent of battery voltage 12/24/36/48v
Hi, .i have 24 system,but dicharge low voltage not working on this mppt,setup on 11,5v,and should stop when 23v ,but this not happend!this happend also for overcharge,but after i read i need disconnect battery so setting get effects!but low voltage still not working ,discharge battery on 19v,!could be batery problem,because are different voltage?for exemple one is 12v and other is 10,8v?
@@SolarEngineering but OU+- do not work with high Amps,!i think work until 5A!Also supplier recommend to use on battery wire!So all this things make the mppt unusable for the performance they say to do if you say work only in outputs!tested also on OUtputs but make the same!Unfortunately i don't know it work only with low Amps and i broke Ouputs ports using high Amps!Then high voltage setting work well!,just low not working,so this mean could not be t this the problem!
@@unCHILIPIR OU needs to control the relay, and the relay will power all your loads. Relay consumes only about 20W. Let me know if you still have questions about connecting loads to OU using relay.
You are using the wrong wire for a battery connection you are using AC wiring solid wire looks like what 14 maybe 12 gauge solid? You need to use at least 10 gage stranded wire. And the same with the solar connecting wires or you will not have full amp flow capability
@@qwertyui90qwertyui90 I have mixed feeling. One side I see that many people successfully using this controllers in solar systems. Price/value is great. Other side it could be dangerous because of cheap components.. If you are planning to use it, just keep in mind when you are mounting this, keep it far from flammable materials, or install it in additional enclosure. I personally bought OutBack Flexmax, much more expensive, but I can leave my house with peace in mind.
@@qwertyui90qwertyui90 the make sky blue version supose to be alot better, I know a few ppl. Using a few, one guy has about 12 on his system, with nearly 40 kw of solar! I use EPever tracer AN controllers myself, haven't had any issues, I have heard the powMR versions can overcharge, not too bad if you use FLA batts, and catch it before damage, but lithium, you will likely have a fire!
@@SolarEngineering agreed, just like sketchy lithium packs/BMS's if I could afford a good controller like an Outback I would use that in a heartbeat. In my case, I mount smoke detector near PowMR units.
The United need more wire you are connect incorrect I have 4 mrpow for 4 years and no problem it is nothe charger controller problem if the installer can't read the instructions
You are right, i tried ALL that, panels off, program, battery off and on, etc etc etc, as per the Manual; DOES NOT WORK; PowMr very POORLY built, DOES NOT CUTOFF charging at the volts you programmed it!!!! and IF the BMS does not cut OFF, IT MAY GET YOUR HOUSE ON FIRE, the Lifepo4 batteries will SWELL baddly on overcharge with full Sun, and may catch fire; DO NOT BUY ; -- i do not know which ones do what you program them to do, anyone can say a good brand of MPPT?
This controller is total junk, DO NOT BUY/USE this unless you want to burn down your house, trailer, motor home. It is very cheap for a reason. I bought one, installed it on my work shed and it almost burned it down.
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Simple Device. I recommend Max 120 VOC 40 amps for the 60amp version. Always use 2x 10 gauge wire to the battery and from the PV. The Solar side needs DC breakers and the Battery also needs a Bigger DC Breaker. Not much going on inside. Never max this controller out it will fry. The reason I say 120VOC is to keep the internal temps down. Flip the fan around to blow cool air on the components. You would never fan a fan away from you to cool down right? Do NOT use solid copper wire. That is for AC application Only! Always use multi braided strand copper to allow better power travel. If you mount this controller to a wall You will need a spacer behind it to allow for max heat dissipation. This controllers simple build will last for 2 to 5 years before it quits. Again always treat the 60 Amp model like a 40 amp. As for 150 VOC incoming and forcing the MPPT side to bring it down to a lower voltage your going to create a ton of heat. Reducing how you series your Panels will benefit. For those that operate this under 120 VOC expect a longer life span and less problems down the road. This has PV reverse polarity 100% but, it does NOT have reverse battery polarity and may severely damage the unit. This charge controller will melt in a ball of fire and never shut it self off if it over heats.
Great info, How much Amp of DC breaker should i use with PV if it has 1100w , 80v and around 27 amp and with batteries if i have 180AX2 batteries ?
Supposedly these can be paralleled, though without battery temp sensors on board not a good recommendation.
Yeah fanning a fan away is a thing, especially in electronic components in close compartments: heat sinks, vents, etc. Pulls hot air away and blows it out, creating a vacuum that pulls cool air in. Cars and house roofs also do this.
@@MuhammadWaqas-bs2xw DC Breaker from Pv1,100 watts to solar charger @80 vlts = 13.88amps so 20 amp PV breakers will work. Breaker for batteries is a lot more. Here are battery voltage calculations if they apply to your setup.
1,100 watts PV to 12 volt dc battery 91.67 amps thus would would need 100 amp fuse.
For 24 volt batteries it would be 45.83 amps so a 60 amp fuse.
For 48 volt battery setup 22.92 amps would need 30 amp fuse DC.
My setup is 4,000w PV to a 48v lithium battery. I use 80 amp fuse on the hot wire to battery. Yes the calculations would be 83.33 amps but, I never pull in more than 3,800 watts = 79.17 amps. My Mppt is set to cut off at 60 amps. Flexmax FM 80 outback has this feature. I have 6 cells. Each 12s cellpack is further redundant protected by (6) 100 amp BMS
I found on mine after change programming, have to disconnect battery to effect any change in programming.
I like the hardware and it's the cheapest 60amp MPPT I've seen. Uses 2 separate buck converters 180 phase difference, smartest way I know. Installing a sync. rect. circuit would make it perfect energywise.
I discovered solar cells are 200% efficient at charging as compared to Line powered 95% switching charger. 200v .09 ohm fets and 4 Schottkey diodes on each phase. fets diodes have special/fake markings. TO247 style on both
I ordered the PowMr 60A today and it's on the way. Do you still like yours? Still pulling power?
@@FathomlessJoy It's still untested after firmware upgrade. Plan on camping solar compressor icebox rig.
@@davegeorge7094 How can I tell if the one I get has the latest firmware?
@@FathomlessJoy If it works good, be fine.
I think version number on screen so check with your seller.
I got this charge controller almost 5 years ago and it's good until now it's working
glad to hear that
How about now? Still working? I have a 60A Powmr on the way, ordered today, and looking to set it up correctly and replace a Renogy.
Hello. Whith LIFEPO4 batteries? And have you managed to set a limit in charging?? Because if you cannot set up a limit in charging it is a big problem((
@@nikowingchun1351 IT DOES NOT WORK; you set the limit, do all as per the Manual, and it IGNORES it, and goes on charging; have one for a year now, i repair inverters, and it DOES NOT WORK; the only thing that saves the batteries is the BMS; what a shame
How is it going now? Still working?@@FathomlessJoy
I cite someone who knows how it works which is also in the instructions. "Important: For programming information to be retained by the controller you must disconnect the Solar power input from the controller. Once the unit has been programmed confirm that it has the information stored by disconnecting the battery connection. The controller will always boot up by running the fan momentarily, finally check to ensure the parameters you set have been retained."
yeah, I tried this as well, didn't help. I was seeing once it stopped charging, but was not able to reproduce it.
Programming change procedure: 1. Edit Prog values. 2. Solar breaker on/off, leave off 3. Battery breaker off, wait 5 seconds to display off, then battery breaker back on. 4. Check prog are still changed. 5. Solar breaker ON.
@@thedavesofourlives1 you are absolutely right. Someone has used it for years. I only used it for a short time, never applied to high power situations (340w charging at 60v from pv). The fan never started once. I even forgot about it and left it in light rain for one night. It still works. I was told that this is an older version of the makeskyblue model. But that model is almost twice as expensive (still cheap compared with others). I also bought a makeskyblue model 118. I will make a video comparing the two when I have a chance.
@@josephdewuhan to summarize, it will not take the changes until the unit is shut down completely, but it is always safest to disconnect the panels first before the battery.
@@SolarEngineering Same here, IT DOES NOT WORK; tried everything, it just does not work, amazingly bad design.
I have been using this charge controller for 2 years and ive had no problems it heats up and fan comes on it cools down its had no problems never skipped at beat in hot or cold , I even bought another one for another setup this time 24v not 12v i have every faith in this product and there is nothing dangerous about it.
Find 12vdc or preferably 6-7vdc in the device. Buy a suitable 12vdc pc fan. Piggyback source, replace the original crappy fan. If at 12vdc add a resistor to make it silent like at 6vdc. Noctua the expensive range has all you need. This will stop the annoying on-off and minimize temp fluctuations. Also extend fan operation.
With lifepo4? Did you manage to set a charging limit? or it overloads the batteries? I mean does the D02 work?
The design of the unit fan could be better if they made fan slowly turn on according to temperature via thermistor, rather than strict ON/OFF (40C/35C)
Also the unit does not have an Equalization mode, only bulk and float.
BUT it is real MPPT, so that makes up for design flaws.
The battery pack(s) will need a BMS to handle the balancing/equalization.
The real one, makeskyblue is slightly better but not by much
@@cgwworldministries83 Make sky Blue is understandable and user friendly setting up for sure.
Thanks for the information, I just ordered one but was getting a bit concern since some posters were saying things like it goes into pwm mode
@@dantronics1682but most posters are idiots and haven’t any clue how stuff works.
Honestly I have 0 problems so far with it and even used it as a car jump started by feeding 84v at 10A on solar side to give the 12v car battery a head start and well been using it as a solar charge controller and as my UPS for 24v system it's been working no problem
my PowMr also overload the battery compared to the settings, but only a little. I have Li-Ion. My settings are: d01=d02=12.2, d04=01
It loads my battery to 49.2V (should only load to 12.2*4=48.8V) then the mode goes from 3(mppt) -> 7(float) and charge current goes down. I believe the voltage reading is not calibrated. Like you see: PowMr displays 10A load current, gauge says 9A load. A 10% mismatch. On my PowMr I see the same mismatch. 10-20% more amps are displayed than actually loaded. But overall this device is very good (for only 120€ shipped). I can charge at nearly full 60A. Heat is a problem, for this I added a CPU heatpipe cooler to the back with a separate 120mm fan.
I have 2x PowMR units, and each has a variation in voltage accuracy of between 0.3 and 0.6 volts on the same length of wire to batteries.
The better controllers seem to have a "sense" wire that more accurately reads battery voltage through a separate small wire that doesn't carry a load and thus has no voltage drop losses.
@@thedavesofourlives1 Thanks, good to know.
I added a heatsink on the back to reduce fan use and dust collection. also I added polypropylene caps in paralell to the electrolytics as these are not rated for the ripple current, even when operated in the 3phase interleaved mode. the 30 and 40A rated units only have 2 channels populated. the ripple current is minimal when operated at Vin=1.5x vout. so try to put that number of panels in series. I have the original makeskyblue version, but no-one knows who is actually designing/making this ..
Although each manufacturer claims the other copied their product, the PowerMr and Makeskyblue are very different inside. also their menu options are not identical.
@@MrVeryCranky The manufacturer of the metal enclosure may have sold that to several companies (I have seen at least 10 of the same box and display with different names) so the box is cheaper for them.
@@MrVeryCranky It's like MSB is complaining that Powmr copied their product, but really they copied only the look. I would never buy a MSB (if they are even sold anymore), but this Powmr 60A looks legit and I have one on the way to replace a Renogy Rover 40 (which looks like a Rich Solar, new model Powmr, etc).
Nice review. Yes it is a big problem if the charge controller doesn;t have a voltage limit in charging the batteries. But i just got this model and in my LIFEPO4 batteries, (i just tested it with 12v system) and the limit is working. I put the D02 at 13,7 and when it goes up to 13,7 it stops charging the batteries. (no matter that the manual says that it doesn't apply in LIFEPO4). Maybe in a 48v system you put a limit of D02 ---> 13.7v and it automatically cuts it of at 54,8v?? Maybe because you have the limit very low it just ignores it?
1 .Do not stack in the wall ... Use something to keep dinsttans like m10 Rusk .... 2 do not plug panel if first don setup first setup after connect the battery this happens to set up MOSFET... MOSFET its in the back thats i tell your keep dinstans from the walls... Manu profile its not setup correctly use flooded and setup the voltage and after conect hte pv panel.... Thenks for your time
After completing all setting changes you have to disconnect the solar, then disconnect the battery.. Then when you reconnect the battery the new settings will take effect.
I tried ALL that as per the Manual; DOES NOT WORK; very POORLY built, DOES NOT CUTOFF charging at the volts you programmed it!!!! IF the BMS does not cut OFF, IT MAY GET YOUR HOUSE ON FIRE.
@@josepeixoto3384mine arr working well, they stop once the battery reach the absorption voltage. I have three of these
Ok, I received my own unit of PowMr today. I tested this right away. I found that it does cut off at the set voltage at d02 when choosing lithium at d04. It cuts off slowly and stops at 0.2A which is not really charging. I know for sure because I was using a bike charger to serve as the solar panel. When it is charging the led is red when it stops charging the led turns green. It turns green at my own pre-set voltage of 13.8v. You were wrong saying that it did not work or your unit didn't work which is unlikely. Another youtuber confirmed this to me a while ago. He used it for several years now. This is indeed an older and cheaper version of it. The later versions 118 or later are better (still quite cheap though). Please visit th-cam.com/video/LLFYDVO9Wx8/w-d-xo.html
I'm glad that device works for you, I decided to go with outback charge controller..
But you have LIFEPO4 batteries? Because i also tested it with 12v system and it does cutt off the charging. But what if the system is bigger? e.g. 48v? does it multiply it?
Returned this unit also like many who found the Amazon description grossly fraudulent
Checkout PowMr & MakeSkyBlue side-to-side comparison:
th-cam.com/video/7lUPhcT6oPw/w-d-xo.html
It depends on the type of lithium battery. If it is lithium ion (e.g. 18650) or Lipo, a fully charged cell could be at 4.2V (i.e. 4.2x16=67.2V). If it is LiFePo4, a fully charge cell could safely be at 3.6V (i.e. 3.6x16=57.6V). So, in any case, setting it at multiples of 12.5V is safe for all lithium batteries. However, if the cells are not balanced, individual cells can be charge to a voltage level higher than allowed. That is when danger can occur, especially for Lipo and Li-ion batteries. You might be smelling the burn of new paint/and or leftover oil on the surface of the unit?
Agree on MAX voltage, but I would expect charger to stop charging battery when it reached defined voltage.. BMS would still protect battery, but I do expect charger to do what it's suppose todo. Thanks for details!
@@SolarEngineering You have to REBOOT after each change in settings! i.e. disconnect batter. make sure u disc panels first then battery then reconnect battery and setting works
I am testing a 60A POWMr... Looking at the cell charge settings... The controller settings range only displays 11v to 17v.
So if using li-ion pack in a 7s config and ideally wanting a max charge of 4.1v per cell (28.7V battery) Seems like I can't use this controller?
Not sure if I am misunderstanding the maxV setting.
I guess I could change the battery to a 4S2P config and use a cell setting of 16.8v
My battery is built with 3.6v 120ah li-ion modules. I already have a 7S BMS and a 24v inverter so was hoping to be able to stay in the 7S config.
@@TuCarb Yes, you can only set the value between 11 to 17v. But for 24v batteries, the actual setting should be the doubled value. For 7s li-ion batteries , the max value is 14.7v which is 29.4v for 24v batteries. But I usually set it at 14.5v. PowMr is an older and much less expensive version (about $75 on aliexpress). The other one called MakeSkyBlue is an improved product (about $120?) on which you directly set 29v for a 7s battery. I have both and like both of them for their price and flexibility in applying to different situations.They are both made cheap but both work fine in my opinion.
@@josephdewuhan Thanks for that info. Ive read the manual several times but never saw anything about (24v double the value).
I will try it at 14.2v and keep a monitor on the power exchange and cutoff.
Thank you.
Is it possible to tune this Solarcharger? It doesn´t charge my 24V Lifepo4. I connected 2 JaSolar in parallel and 35,2 V are obviosly not enough to start MPPT. Connecting the PV-modules in serial works. Any idea?
Can I connect 2 pieces of 550watt solar panel (24volt)with a 12 volt 80ampere lead acid battery?
Good report thanks.
Charge cap/ peak voltage for a 48V LiPo SHOULD be ~54.4V
4.2V a cell x 13 cells (Nominal 3.7V x 13 = 48,1V ) 54,6
Good video.
Que dois je faire pour s'allumer l' écran quand il a éteint ?
and what are d05 and d06 settings??????????
omg will my powmr burnin? i have fear now lol
so what's happend?
How did you connect ya panels
Подскажите пожалуйста, показывает только входной вольтаж и сколько есть на акб. Индикация заряда вроде идёт но не заряжает и не показывает колличество ватт и ампер которые приходят, скачет вольтаж 27-60 система собрана на 24в и два акб по12. Контакты паяные норм, показывает 4 режим работы.
I don't waste time or money on these cheap things anymore.. you get what you pay for. I know some of of the other brands like victron are way over priced but in the long run it may be worth it
yeah, agree 100%
great. i bought this about a month ago and havent had a chance to test yet. now i have to worry about this burning the house down?
not necessary, just don't install it close to flammable materials
Both the PowMr and the MakeSkyBlue units should be mounted off of the surface behind them. 2 or three washers under the screws holding it to the surface will help with the air circulation under the units. The Al case serves as part of the heatsink.
Keep the receipt at a neighbour's house, 😉.
After it reaches the charging voltage, does the controller keep a float voltage or it just stops charging?
yes, it should keep floating voltage.
Nice review - thanks. Do you have a link to the bms you are using, and is it any good?
I'm using chargery BMS, it has some issues..
Also recently got another BMS (check the latest video) this BMS looks promising, going to test it soon.
nice review, however may I ask what batteries you were using please (chemistry and configuration) as I didn't see that mentioned?
I really like your independent BMS that featured quickly in the video, is there another video which explores that and the battery it is working with?
Hi, it was connected to 48V 150Ah LiFePo4 bank + Chargery BMS.
I'm not using this system anymore, upgraded to SolArk inverter (all-in-one) and JK BMS.
Will this work with 18650 lithium ion battery?
yes
What happens if you set D02 at 14 V a value that is closer to a full charge?
didn't help as well.
I've ordered another controller, will do review soon
@@SolarEngineering th-cam.com/video/UBITt7vrn3k/w-d-xo.html please watch this video and talk to the 1st commentator of that video. I'm curious about it because I ordered the same unit which is still on its way to me.
Hey, I have PowMr MPPT 60A solar charge controller and 2 batteries solar battery 100Ah 12V EXACT DCS. Which values should I enter for parameters: d01 d02 and d03. Data from solar battery: Trickle charge: 13.6V - 13.8V Type: lead-acid Maximum end-of-charge voltage: 14.6-14.8V? Many greetings
It's in your manual
in my research i learned lead acid batterys do the boil thing at 14.3 volts. they love 13,2 trickle charge to maintain them. i like the 14.6 for absortion charge too
can it be used with agm batteries?
yes
@@SolarEngineering the regulator to a dedicated option with just the scrtta agm? or do you have to manually set the values?
Savings on buying a PowMr will turn into a huge loss for you when you sort out the smoking wreckage of your burnt house. I miraculously avoided it. My inverter only lasted 2 weeks. Yours may last a year or two, but do you want to live on a powder keg?
You could say that about any product. For instance the Outback controllers could burn your house down for $450 whereas it would only cost you $85 to burn your house down with a PowMr.
Is the powmr mppt still working good.
I'm not using it, switched to Outback Flex
@@SolarEngineering Did it work okay while you did use it. I have a few not in use yet.
@@MrDoingEverything I just tested it for a few hours. Few people reported here in comments that it works well for 2+ years and counting. I'm going to perform a more detailed test in the future.
@@SolarEngineering If I pay postage can I have it?
One question, the load disconnects after the battery gets bellow the pre defined voltage on D03 setting. Do you know when it reconnects? It needs to be a manual thing? Is it when the battery is full again?
I haven't tested it, it would disconnect power from OV- OV+ terminals, so you need to connect load using these terminals.
@@SolarEngineering but if I keep the terminals connected will the load turn back on?
@@GoncaloRijo yes it will, not sure what is release voltage (you cannot control it in settings)
@@SolarEngineering do you have any suggestion on how can I find that release voltage?
@@GoncaloRijo if you have this unit it's easy to test. Or you could reach out to sellers.
is the output voltage on load side, always 12v or adjusted beyond to installed battery ?
it's adjusted for battery (12/24/48V)
check more detailed review here: th-cam.com/video/7lUPhcT6oPw/w-d-xo.html
Load side is set for 12v and should be used for resistive load of 100watts only( generally for lights and no inductive load) and it's independent of battery voltage 12/24/36/48v
Yo tengo uno de esta marca y tengo 4 celdas de 160w cada una y la pantalla siempre indica en modo de noche
Hi, .i have 24 system,but dicharge low voltage not working on this mppt,setup on 11,5v,and should stop when 23v ,but this not happend!this happend also for overcharge,but after i read i need disconnect battery so setting get effects!but low voltage still not working ,discharge battery on 19v,!could be batery problem,because are different voltage?for exemple one is 12v and other is 10,8v?
Hi, are you powering loads from OU+ OU- terminals from MPPT?
@@SolarEngineering first time yes!but now they are on the battery cable! thankx for reply
@@unCHILIPIR if you want this MPPT to control low voltage disconnect, then you need to use OU+- outputs, trough relay.
@@SolarEngineering but OU+- do not work with high Amps,!i think work until 5A!Also supplier recommend to use on battery wire!So all this things make the mppt unusable for the performance they say to do if you say work only in outputs!tested also on OUtputs but make the same!Unfortunately i don't know it work only with low Amps and i broke Ouputs ports using high Amps!Then high voltage setting work well!,just low not working,so this mean could not be t this the problem!
@@unCHILIPIR OU needs to control the relay, and the relay will power all your loads. Relay consumes only about 20W.
Let me know if you still have questions about connecting loads to OU using relay.
I am just coming from Banggood. Is this a good MPPT?
yeah, it's real mppt. check latest video on channel. I like more MakeSkyBlue after reviewing both of them.
What happened at 5:03 did you overload it?
not mine picture, found somewhere on forum.
You are using the wrong wire for a battery connection you are using AC wiring solid wire looks like what 14 maybe 12 gauge solid? You need to use at least 10 gage stranded wire. And the same with the solar connecting wires or you will not have full amp flow capability
@rmendes - We do *NOT* need stranded wire for DC. Where did you read such nonsense?
So any update on what happened with this ?
purchased outback flexmax:
th-cam.com/video/wY6eZK0Wcdg/w-d-xo.html
@@SolarEngineering Oh damn. So you wouldn't recommend these solar MPPT charge controllers ?
@@qwertyui90qwertyui90 I have mixed feeling. One side I see that many people successfully using this controllers in solar systems. Price/value is great.
Other side it could be dangerous because of cheap components..
If you are planning to use it, just keep in mind when you are mounting this, keep it far from flammable materials, or install it in additional enclosure.
I personally bought OutBack Flexmax, much more expensive, but I can leave my house with peace in mind.
@@qwertyui90qwertyui90 the make sky blue version supose to be alot better, I know a few ppl. Using a few, one guy has about 12 on his system, with nearly 40 kw of solar! I use EPever tracer AN controllers myself, haven't had any issues, I have heard the powMR versions can overcharge, not too bad if you use FLA batts, and catch it before damage, but lithium, you will likely have a fire!
@@SolarEngineering agreed, just like sketchy lithium packs/BMS's if I could afford a good controller like an Outback I would use that in a heartbeat.
In my case, I mount smoke detector near PowMR units.
The United need more wire you are connect incorrect I have 4 mrpow for 4 years and no problem it is nothe charger controller problem if the installer can't read the instructions
Your wires are way too thin
thanks
You are using the incorrect wire mine's are 3 years old never had a problem with them I used the correct wires
thanks for the info
me too
can you please indicate here, the type of wires to be used? is it 14 awg 2.5m PV cable?
10awg stranded but I'm using all the conector because is to mucho amperes for one conector
You are right, i tried ALL that, panels off, program, battery off and on, etc etc etc, as per the Manual; DOES NOT WORK; PowMr very POORLY built, DOES NOT CUTOFF charging at the volts you programmed it!!!!
and IF the BMS does not cut OFF, IT MAY GET YOUR HOUSE ON FIRE, the Lifepo4 batteries will SWELL baddly on overcharge with full Sun, and may catch fire; DO NOT BUY ;
-- i do not know which ones do what you program them to do, anyone can say a good brand of MPPT?
If I see your very Fat Cable that you use for this Ampere - I know's all !! 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
it's 14 gauge wire, rated up to 15A. solar panels at that time were only 810W (in specs). so we good here
@@SolarEngineering So not true. AC & DC travel differant on wire.
@@MikePowlas Is that right?
This controller is total junk, DO NOT BUY/USE this unless you want to burn down your house, trailer, motor home. It is very cheap for a reason. I bought one, installed it on my work shed and it almost burned it down.
I have 3 makeskyblue controllers, never used abovr 70% of rating, now 3 years happily operating
Chất lượng sạc này rất tệ
Thông số ảo, hiển thị 60A thực chất đo chỉ được cao nhất 43A.
Vee see how many vatts vee have. I vill break you if you mess vith my controller..lol
First : learn electricity
thanks