@@aurimazas001 I have just brought 2x 400w panels that are 36v 13a each so in need of an MTTP controller that can handle around 80v 15a or 40v 30a, and my inverter and battery bank are 24v also. This look charge controller looks like the best way to go for me, and I am glad to hear it's still working for you. Thank you.
I recommend you repeat this test but use a external current meter, I've seen a lot of people complain about this specific MPPT controller being purposely misscalibrated to show 60 amps while in reality is about 40 That might be the reason your BMS handled the charge just fine, it wasn't actually being driven to the max
Absolutely right. I own one, and I am using an external wattmeter. This MPTT charger never goes beyond 40 A (around 1140 W). its measurements are 25% off.
Good to hear Darren! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
As long as the battery bank can handle it sure. Lithium will take higher amps no problem and discharge at a higher amp rating. I always set my parameters 10% less then Max when using Lithium batteries to preserve them. Better safe then sorry. You can cook Lead batteries but you cannot exceed any Max state of charge with Lithium as a rule. Again 10% less for safety measure when using Lithium for exceptional long term use ( 5/10/15 years or more!) Lead dies between 3-4 years with sulfating.
@@TheWickerShireProject the charge controller won't let it cook the batteries. You can have more then 100amps to come into batteries lead acid because soon as it sees the high voltage from batteries it steps down.
really happy with my pow mr 40a, been in use for a couple years now and gets the full rated output of my panels most of the time. more on cool sunny days. recommended!!
I've been stuffing around with solar for years and the best system of you are still grid connected is to get a second grid connect inverter like a 4 or 5kw sma sunny boy and just plug it into a PowerPoint. Then use a high power AC battery charger to charge your batteries. Then run what you need in your house on a separate system. Have a timer or light sensing switch on the charger so it doesn't draw current at night. This is probably more efficient and cost effective for a large system. Just one solar inverter and a huge panel array. I know it's illegal to play with mains power but it's really not that bad if you know what your doing.. This way you can get way better quality equipment that will last a longer too..
Thanks for the great video. I had this on a rv I bought with no manual or instructions. I replaced the house batteries with 2 6v golf cart batteries in series and this heped me set it up properly.
Glad it helped Doug! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
A suggestion.... No YTer shows their full system working. How many amps they draw during the night and how long it will take the solar controller to replace those amps. In a real battery bank of over 500 amp hours. And no body shows systems that are a year old and how they survive time. It is a niche.
Yes, you could put a light bulb on the load of the charge controller, but this is a better use for it. For on-grid, the cheap Amazon type of charge controller is better. Everything is cheaper to buy except for the batteries. The Charge Controller was about $15, the 1000W Grid Tie Inverters $107.84, a lead-acid battery $103.52 each, and 24 PVs at $63.00 each. You can stack the Charge Controllers and GTIs. Use the load side of the charge controller to power/operate an automotive relay that controls an outlet strip that your grid tie inverters are plugged into. The outlet strip is then plugged into grid power. Without grid power, a GTI does not come on. The cord to the outlet strip is cut open about 3 inches from the strip and only the black wire is cut and connected to the switch contacts of the relay with crimp connectors. The charge controller load is programmed to turn off the load at 12v and to come back on at 13.8V. This rig protects your battery and allows the battery to recharge before automatically turning the GTIs back on. If you have enough PV, the relay will stay on most of the day. I have 24- 100W PVs, 3 Charge Controllers, 4 Batteries and 2 GTIs. 1- 1000W GTI gives you about 3-6 Amps back to the grid. My setup won't power a whole house, but it will lessen my electric bill for a lot less than $60,000.
One big problem with this is if the inverter in connected directly to the AGM lead acid battery no battery manager, as it shows in connection diagram, the battery under voltage will NOT disconnect the battery from the inverter, this only works on the useless shed light dc output, with a useless 5A max. An even BIGGER problem is the battery charger has no way of determining when to terminate bulk or absorption charge stages as since it has a load directly on battery terminals all the time, it will stay at this state for ever and eventually over charge the batteries if load is less than available solar power. The only fix I can see is to lower the bulk and absorption max voltage down to the same as float and only float charge the battery. This means the battery may never reach full SOC. The battery really needs to be connected to a proper battery manager to maintain battery and switch to float, while also proving full power to loads, when solar supply exceeds demand. This was never discussed and is critical.
Congratulations on the completeness of the video, but I would like to ask you that given the double input of photovoltaic panels, it is possible to use them of different powers.
Great review! However, you forgot to verify if the voltage and current readings in the controller are accurate using a meter. It's important to protect the batteries. And also if the solar MPP tracking is fast and accurate. Thanks.
Hi there. Glad you liked the video. It's hard to include every little thing in the video. If I did, it would be way too long and not that many people would watch. The voltage is very close to my DMM reading. Current I didn't verify. Thanks for watching!
That is a big deal and it should be checked out the one I got over charges and will not charge when it gets down to 48v. And the current draw over night is bad
What are the settings for a Lifepo4 battery, D01 will not work if is set in D04 as Lithium (01) so D02 can be 14.00v to 14.4v? Is D01 bypassed or not working?
It's amazing how compact, efficient, and automated these solar systems have gotten. Great review. Maybe reversing the battery wires would have given the manufacturer an upgrade idea, and given you another repair video. 😄
No one ever mentions that the output terminals have a current limitation of a few amps. However, if you need to control a bigger load you can use a relay on those terminals to control a bigger load. The size of the light is very small and with this model of controller the output changes based on the voltage of the battery. So it isn't reliable lighting. Not sure what purpose other than what's happening with the charge controller the output is good for.
Hello. Voltage at Maximum Power (Vmpp)= 34.5 V Current at Maximum Power (Impp)= 9.59 A Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) = 40.2 V Short Circuit Current (Isc) = 10.1 A I have 2 monocrystalline solar panels worth 330W... How can you connect these 2 panels to this MPPT 60A solar controller? With serial connection or parallel connection? Because I looked at the device information, it is 12Volt. It says that the highest 80Volt input can be connected for the battery (VOC). So should I use it only with parallel connection? I was confused and wanted to get precise information... Thanks.
I decided to experiment a little with solar, I'm now living in the Philippines so there's generally no shortage of sun! I bought this exact SCC but it's doing a few things that confuse me, namely, the voltage amps and watts continually change and most confusing, when the voltage from the single 160W Jinko 12V panel goes up, the watts and amps drop sharply, put simply, the controller seems to perpetually mess with the parameters of the panels output, is this normal?
Glad you liked it, and you're welcome! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Great video. I’ve been using this charger in Australia for a while on a hobby style set up practising solar energy and I often wondered if I just bought the cheap piece of shit. Now I know i have a cheap good charge controller. I think with this controller it’s important to set it up just as u have shown here to not start any smoke. Thanku. 👍👍
I have one of these units.... What is the point of having two terminals for solar input? I I can't find any diagrams or videos or information about anyone using both these terminals. How are they used?
Thank you for the very good and deep explanations. My PowMr is consuming nearly 1 A during the night from the battery. In dark wintertimes in Germany, my battery is being discharged without any consumer attached. Can you confirm approx. 900mA as standby current?
I wouldn’t trust the Mr. Pow lcd display for accuracy. I had a Makeskyblue 60a controller, identical to the Mr pow that was 35% overstating my pv input. In my case it’s pretty hard to pull 680w from my solar panel, when I only have two 300w panel plugged in to it and it’s winter. I put a clamp meter on it and tested the voltage the old fashion way and it came out to be 440w instead of 680w it was displaying. I exchanged it with the same maker/model and it works fine now.
I am so pleased I found your video this evening by accident, because I bought I bought one this morning and didn't know whether or not I did the right thing. You put my mind to rest. Do you know whether this unit causes any RFI in the amateur radio HF bands?
I'm not positive about the RFI, but I'd say no. Thanks for watching! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Doug I am not too savvy on this stuff. I have a 36 volt golf cart.do u think I can use a100 watt solar panel to charge it? Or would I need a higher wattage solar panel. Thank you.
Hello Doug, Thank you for always posting informative, great reviews, with a good narative. Very thorough and detailed demo. Your very knowledgeable and credible, thus the long time sub. Happy Thanksgiving, best, C.
My pleasure Jason. Always nice to receive positive comments from viewers! You'll definitely like my battery testing and solar video playlists below. Please share. Thank you th-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU2G9fBmFeWCkxD7kEV2fzXF.html th-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU2CFaGRj9eB2I38yHnW5FQz.html
Very nice review, professionally presented. It's indeed a great entry point MPPT CC for people under budget restrictions. You did not mention if is has RS-485 communication with the computer.
I have a few of the make sky blue controllers like this, and a couple EPever controllers, I'm about to put four 270 watt panels on each 60 amp controller, around 72vmp, with 2series, 2parallel, charging a liion batt bank, to about 28.8v , my EPever controllers have 600 watts on each, with the pv at 42vmp, i went with higher voltage, because the pv is going to be up to 100' away, I hope to get a couple 100amp controllers to lessen the number of controllers in the system, I'm also adding more pv, about double the size now, 4400watts, I hope to have about 8-10 kw of pv,
wow i bought it after watching this amazing detailed video , this mppt works like a champ , only i wonder if i can add two 12 volts wind turbines to the PV+ and PV- to this mppt connections as the solar panels hits 80 Volts at max and this mppt can handle up to 160 volts or there would cause any problems to the PV panels or the mppt ??? is it possible to connect the wind turbines ? Thank you , all the best .
Thanks for watching Jack! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Hi, I have the same charge control and noticed it goes into night mode during the daytime with full sun?? Also my 24 volt battery pack never goes over 26.8volts after a full day of sun?
You'll find over time that the PowMr rip off of the MakeSkyBlue controller does not track the MPPT nearly as fast. Also in lead acid mode the PowMr 60a would randomly overshoot the maximum voltage. I've had the PowMr ruin a 200ah lead bank. Ever since going MakeSkyBlue all of my problems went way.
First complaint I heard, and I've read MANY reviews. For the money, it's a great deal. I have no way of knowing if you had a bad battery or a faulty unit. Maybe you work MakeSkyBlue.......many unknowns.
@@electronicsNmore I hear you, just sharing my experience. That was a few years ago so they may have fixed the issue by now. Glad to see it's working great on your lithium setup.
Great reviews! Thanks! I just ordered one of these controllers from Banggood using your link. FYI - the $40 coupon code still works. Can you verify something. Can I connect 24V or 48V panels to this controller and charge a 12V battery bank? It looks like yes but I want to be sure. Also, I just watched your Reliable Brand(WZRELB) 3000W inverter test. I have one of these that I have yet to put in service. I can't find your follow-up video that reveals what failed when the 110V output was shorted. Can you provide a link to that video? Thanks!
Hello again, I have a panel of 310 w, Luxor brand, and powmr 60 A. On a sunny day I only get 9 watts up to 22 watts, the voltage is at 38.7 V. What can be the problem of low watts? all new installation
Hey, I have PowMr MPPT 60A solar charge controller and 2 batteries solar battery 100Ah 12V EXACT DCS. Which values should I enter for parameters: d01 d02 and d03. Data from solar battery: Trickle charge: 13.6V - 13.8V Type: lead-acidMaximum end-of-charge voltage: 14.6-14.8V? Many greetings
Great video. Would the set-up you show here work for a Hurricane "kit" that would at least hold a household reef-er reasonable temperature at and maybe an hr worth of tv time? My suggestion for a show that would, demonstrate what could do the above an might optimize (and contain) these components in a storable way? Just an idea... Cheers from your S. Fl brother.
i hooked mine up this week, i dont know whats true for this, some say 1.5 x battery voltage. i did 146 volts for 48 volt battery. the charging watts on the controller jump around, but the new meter shunt i put in read like 1/3 of what the controller said. i have 14 panels on roof in two strings of 7. each 100 watt. ive only had 2 sunny days and controller said over 1kw then, unsure if things are all working correctly. how do i check?
Please sir, mine shows 00 W meanwhile it is connected to the solar panels and the batteries are connected as well, it does not shoots electricity to the house, the power inverter makes a shriek sound when trying to power it on. Please help
hey would you recommend this charge controller for beginners, I only plan to use this to charge lithium batteries I have a 4S and a 7S (18650 battery is only)
This unit does a great job for the low cost. It won't be ideal for every solar installation, but it will definitely be good for many. Thanks for watching!
Good day,how are you doing?Hope all is well.I would love if you could assist me;A technician lost a parts for this charge controller that you have in this video,you see the screen plug that goes down into the motherboard there is a little black parts above that male plug that has a writing on it which starts with S and ending with a C.I dont know if you could just look on that parts number and let me get it please,I really appreciate it.
I’ve had it for 2 years and just checked. The display shows 50-55 amps but my amp meter shows around 40 amps to the battery. In the video he said his BMS max current was 50 amps and never shut off even though the display was over 60. Should check actual amps coming out from this unit.
This POWMR is a kock off of the "MakeSkyBlue" charger (30A-V118) $80.00; 12V/24V/36V/48V; which means PowMr does not receive the same hardware or software updates.
Great as usual. I would like to get started experimenting with lifepo4 but I only have like $200 any suggestions. So doggone much fake stuff out there.
Glad you enjoyed it Steve! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, use supplied Amazon links to support my channel when making purchases(No additional cost to you), and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks
The main thing wrong with it, (apart from small terminals & 5Amp load output) is no battery temperature sensor. More important in cold climate, but, depending on battery chemistry, a SCC should de-rate the output current as battery temperature rises; not just protect the SCC. These PowMr are copies of “Make Sky Blue” OEM. The 40A & 60A have same circuit board; the 60A fakes the current.
Charge controllers deal with variable voltage power sources and convert it to a stable constant voltage & current. Therefore any power supply that is variable and within the specs of the input voltage that this unit accepts then it will work just the same as with a solar array. In this case they only labeled as PV - Photo Voltaic, but many charge controllers MPPT/PWN do carry labeling for Wind/PV power sources and they are all connected to the same +/- terminals on the charge controllers.
@get real I should've worded my response better. Out of the box for wind, no, but I do know a guy that modified either the unit of the wind generator so he was able to use the MPPT shown in this video. I need to find out what he did.
I heard you mentioned the solar panel is 400watt. 40v 10a . Connected in parallel. However, on the MPPT, i can see the voltage is 13v and 62a. The calculation seems mismatch.
Just found your channel today and you are great! Question the description of the MPPT controller states that it can be used with Lithium batteries and you demonstrated Lithium Iron Phosphate....what about batteries built with Lithium Ion 18650'S??
Мав цей контролер, лайно. На 30% приблизно завищує показник амперажу, але це не основна проблема. Коли заряд акумулятора наближається до повного, контролер лавинно обвалює напругу на панелях до рівня акумулятора і назад не підніме навіть, як сяде до нуля, поки не перезагрузиш контролер, чи не перетикнеш панелі.
Could you add a video showing how the PV voltage changes while charging a low battery? I found MPPT controllers are slow at reacting to solar power changes and waste power because the PV will be out of max eff. volt range as it should keep PV at 34, for a 44v open circuit panel as an example. My EPSOLAR 40A controller hangs at 14v as sun rises and later it will go to 44 and then slowly track down to the ideal 34v. Nobody has done a video addressing this, I have been searching for. Thanks good video.
Try one from makeskyblue_usa. Mine are very rapid in their response time. Sean is not only a dealer on Ebay, he is also the factory repair place for the US. PowMr is a knockoff of the older version of MSB units.
Problem is the sun is not perfect. Clouds, shading, temperature. Its 100% going to fluctuate. If the voltage on the PV side changes on the LCD panel it means its adjusting and sweeping to max the MPPT. Note this charger is a light weight MPPT solar charger. I would always buy the 60 amp version and Never max it out. It should last a very long time 3 to 5 years. If you get over 5 years your blessed! Our Beast Out Back FM 80amp Just bit the dust at the 3 year marker. It shut down. a few huge sparks. Some power Mosfets Blew up and it started working again!
Warning:- When battery is being bulk charged at say 14.4Volts for a12V agm battery the charger measures the amount of current drawn by the battery and when current drop off the charger enters float mode say 13.5~13.8V BUT!! if the inverter is connected across the battery running all the time, the charger has no way no knowing if battery is still drawing current or its just driving the load, hence it will stay locked in the state and if solar supply is larger than demand from inverter it will eventually overcharge and destroy the battery! This means you cannot use absorption or bulk charger stages when a load is connected across the battery. Need to adjust voltages so it only float charges at 13.8V max. Not the best as battery may never reach full charge.
Yes, you can read through comments in the video description area, some viewers have been using them for a 2-3 years. Thanks for watching! Check out my "Solar" video playlist below and most importantly share the link to my channel with others. th-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU2G9fBmFeWCkxD7kEV2fzXF.html
I am new to PV, but is the breaker on the PV side really needed if it is just one single array? PV modules operate near their short circuit rating from what i read, so if it is more than one array i can see a use case.
I do it without sometimes, but you can always use an inexpensive BUSS fuse and holder. Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks Max th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
In USA it’s a legal requirement to have double pole disconnect on residential property. You have to disconnect solar before doing and work on wiring, or disconnecting the battery.
Is there no switch on the 5 Amp load output? Also then no LVD / LVR settings? Separate battery protect circuit required. If there was LVD I could use a solid state relay
Temp sensor is a joke. It only reads what's inside the unit. this runs the fan only. It will not help shut the unit down if it over heats =P So many test video's show this.
thank you so much for this video,i have a question,i have the pow mr 60amp controller with two 12v lithium iron 200ah batteries set in parallel,operating voltage 12.8 v and charging voltage is 14.6, confused on step 2 D01 and step 3 D02 could you please help with the propper setting.thank you very much
Hey thanks for this video. I just ordered this one and received it today. I got it to replace a Renogy 40a because it seemed like my Renogy was not charging very well. But when I hook this PowMr up, it is getting more or less the same: only about 5a charge, with 60+ volts from the panels. I have 2x 320 watt panels in series. Why do you get 60a and I only get 5a?? Something is off. Again, the Renogy was getting basically the same numbers. I have an almost identical setup, though I have 2x 12v 200 ah batteries in parallel, for 12v/400ah. Please help!!
I also have this charge control but it's not currently in use. What I also read about this specific CC is that it also have mppt (max power point tracking) flaw in design. It get stuck sometimes. Turning on/off resets mppt function and it starts working properly again... Please leave me a note is it the same case with your CC ?
Hello i really like your review on this controller, am most likely buying this through link! I have just 1 question, what does the controller do with the power the solar panels keep generating after the battery bank is full?
@@gabaradama144k9 yea I think it slows the flow and it seems so be doing fine have had it now for as long as my original comment is and it been very good
I need some help, I have a 7S 100P 18650 battery pack, 29v lithium battery,, what would be the best setting for this. If D04 is set to 01 does it all other setting become invalid ?
Great video! I've been searching for the right info as to what fuses to use for my 3000 watt inverter and now I know that I need a 350 amp fuse. Thank you! currently I am using 2 VALENCE LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Magnesium Phosphate Batteries 12v 40Ah U1-12RT wired in parallel, If I add 4 more batteries in parallel, will the fuse stay the same (350 amps)?
I use the same MPPT for two years and having zero problems so far. For its price, it's a very good unit.
Great to hear!
Can you tell us what solar input volt and amps and what battery voltage you are seeing using, please?
@@hardergamer batteries - 24 volts. Solar - 80 volts, 20 amps.
@@aurimazas001 I have just brought 2x 400w panels that are 36v 13a each so in need of an MTTP controller that can handle around 80v 15a or 40v 30a, and my inverter and battery bank are 24v also.
This look charge controller looks like the best way to go for me, and I am glad to hear it's still working for you.
Thank you.
@@hardergamer make sure you use both output ports to batteries to get more amps and watts. Thats why it has 2 positives and 2 negative
I recommend you repeat this test but use a external current meter, I've seen a lot of people complain about this specific MPPT controller being purposely misscalibrated to show 60 amps while in reality is about 40
That might be the reason your BMS handled the charge just fine, it wasn't actually being driven to the max
Nice video by the way
Absolutely right. I own one, and I am using an external wattmeter. This MPTT charger never goes beyond 40 A (around 1140 W). its measurements are 25% off.
I have 3 of them. They have been working fine for over 2 years. I have had no problems with them. Thanks for the look inside!
Good to hear Darren! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
do you have more than one connected to the same battery bank by chance?
@@jasonbrown467 yes, all 3 are connected to 4200 (18650) cells. My battery bank is full by 11:00 am most days.
I bought it. Good to hear see reviews and good reviews to this purchase. I installed it and observing. Good to hear this.Thanks
Fantastic video! Always a thumbs up 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
I wish someone can do an full indepth review and programing of the Makeskyblue, like what you just did, thanks again
Project farm liked your video!? What an honor!
Your channel is worth every commercial break. Great work.
Thank you! I appreciate that comment.
Excellent. You can put two pieces 60A in parallel , So total is MPPT 120A. Nice find, thanks a million.
As long as the battery bank can handle it sure. Lithium will take higher amps no problem and discharge at a higher amp rating. I always set my parameters 10% less then Max when using Lithium batteries to preserve them. Better safe then sorry. You can cook Lead batteries but you cannot exceed any Max state of charge with Lithium as a rule. Again 10% less for safety measure when using Lithium for exceptional long term use ( 5/10/15 years or more!) Lead dies between 3-4 years with sulfating.
@@TheWickerShireProject the charge controller won't let it cook the batteries. You can have more then 100amps to come into batteries lead acid because soon as it sees the high voltage from batteries it steps down.
Fantastic Video !!! I learned more in 20 minutes from you than hours of other vids! Thank you !!!
Great to hear! Be sure to watch and share my solar video playlist. Thank you
really happy with my pow mr 40a, been in use for a couple years now and gets the full rated output of my panels most of the time. more on cool sunny days.
recommended!!
ive got 4 of these now. 2 are brilliant
2 are awful
the bad ones have a decimal point in the wattage readout and are awful at tracking
I've been stuffing around with solar for years and the best system of you are still grid connected is to get a second grid connect inverter like a 4 or 5kw sma sunny boy and just plug it into a PowerPoint. Then use a high power AC battery charger to charge your batteries. Then run what you need in your house on a separate system. Have a timer or light sensing switch on the charger so it doesn't draw current at night.
This is probably more efficient and cost effective for a large system. Just one solar inverter and a huge panel array.
I know it's illegal to play with mains power but it's really not that bad if you know what your doing..
This way you can get way better quality equipment that will last a longer too..
Thanks for the great video. I had this on a rv I bought with no manual or instructions. I replaced the house batteries with 2 6v golf cart batteries in series and this heped me set it up properly.
Glad it helped Doug! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
A suggestion.... No YTer shows their full system working. How many amps they draw during the night and how long it will take the solar controller to replace those amps. In a real battery bank of over 500 amp hours.
And no body shows systems that are a year old and how they survive time.
It is a niche.
Yes, you could put a light bulb on the load of the charge controller, but this is a better use for it.
For on-grid, the cheap Amazon type of charge controller is better.
Everything is cheaper to buy except for the batteries.
The Charge Controller was about $15, the 1000W Grid Tie Inverters $107.84, a lead-acid battery $103.52 each, and 24 PVs at $63.00 each.
You can stack the Charge Controllers and GTIs.
Use the load side of the charge controller to power/operate an automotive relay that controls an outlet strip that your grid tie inverters are plugged into.
The outlet strip is then plugged into grid power.
Without grid power, a GTI does not come on.
The cord to the outlet strip is cut open about 3 inches from the strip and only the black wire is cut and connected to the switch contacts of the relay with crimp connectors.
The charge controller load is programmed to turn off the load at 12v and to come back on at 13.8V.
This rig protects your battery and allows the battery to recharge before automatically turning the GTIs back on.
If you have enough PV, the relay will stay on most of the day.
I have 24- 100W PVs, 3 Charge Controllers, 4 Batteries and 2 GTIs.
1- 1000W GTI gives you about 3-6 Amps back to the grid.
My setup won't power a whole house, but it will lessen my electric bill for a lot less than $60,000.
After 2 years , will you recommend it or not ? Please reply
Thanks for this. Helped my decision to pull the trigger on buying these for my portable solar generators.
Great video, I am currently using 2 of these controllers, 2 plus year's, they can be parallel , highly recommend for budget minded DIY 😁
For the price, it's a good deal.
Howdy neighbor, whereabouts are you in the Philippines?
@@brendandoherty2159 Negros Oriental, Bagawines Vallehermoso , Cabulihan
One big problem with this is if the inverter in connected directly to the AGM lead acid battery no battery manager, as it shows in connection diagram, the battery under voltage will NOT disconnect the battery from the inverter, this only works on the useless shed light dc output, with a useless 5A max. An even BIGGER problem is the battery charger has no way of determining when to terminate bulk or absorption charge stages as since it has a load directly on battery terminals all the time, it will stay at this state for ever and eventually over charge the batteries if load is less than available solar power. The only fix I can see is to lower the bulk and absorption max voltage down to the same as float and only float charge the battery. This means the battery may never reach full SOC. The battery really needs to be connected to a proper battery manager to maintain battery and switch to float, while also proving full power to loads, when solar supply exceeds demand. This was never discussed and is critical.
Congratulations on the completeness of the video, but I would like to ask you that given the double input of photovoltaic panels, it is possible to use them of different powers.
wow !! best explanation i have eared so far in my DIY experience . Two thumbs up. im subscribing to anything you post. thanks
Great to hear Joe! Thanks for watching
Great review! However, you forgot to verify if the voltage and current readings in the controller are accurate using a meter. It's important to protect the batteries. And also if the solar MPP tracking is fast and accurate. Thanks.
Hi there. Glad you liked the video. It's hard to include every little thing in the video. If I did, it would be way too long and not that many people would watch. The voltage is very close to my DMM reading. Current I didn't verify. Thanks for watching!
That is a big deal and it should be checked out the one I got over charges and will not charge when it gets down to 48v. And the current draw over night is bad
What are the settings for a Lifepo4 battery, D01 will not work if is set in D04 as Lithium (01) so D02 can be 14.00v to 14.4v?
Is D01 bypassed or not working?
I have the same questions?
Good quality I use it from 2years it is support both lead acid and lithium battery
YOU JUST CLEARED THE SHITS OFF MY HEAD, KEEP IT UP... THUMB UP FROM ME...
One of the best video for this unit ,good job
It's amazing how compact, efficient, and automated these solar systems have gotten. Great review. Maybe reversing the battery wires would have given the manufacturer an upgrade idea, and given you another repair video. 😄
Years ago I only used PWM, but the MPPT's are great. Thanks for watching!
The circuit boards are available retail
No one ever mentions that the output terminals have a current limitation of a few amps. However, if you need to control a bigger load you can use a relay on those terminals to control a bigger load. The size of the light is very small and with this model of controller the output changes based on the voltage of the battery. So it isn't reliable lighting. Not sure what purpose other than what's happening with the charge controller the output is good for.
Can you test the standby consumption? I'm sure it's not much, but it adds up!! I'll have atleast 3, 60 amp controllers, possibly 6,
Very low. Using a 12V panel, 86mA, and with the fan on 190mA.
You may have mentioned max voltage input but I didn't hear it?
MAX PV input is 190 VDC
I believe you're correct.
Hello.
Voltage at Maximum Power (Vmpp)= 34.5 V
Current at Maximum Power (Impp)= 9.59 A
Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) = 40.2 V
Short Circuit Current (Isc) = 10.1 A
I have 2 monocrystalline solar panels worth 330W...
How can you connect these 2 panels to this MPPT 60A solar controller? With serial connection or parallel connection?
Because I looked at the device information, it is 12Volt. It says that the highest 80Volt input can be connected for the battery (VOC).
So should I use it only with parallel connection?
I was confused and wanted to get precise information...
Thanks.
My PowMr incorrectly displays amperage and wattage - about 1.5 times more than real values.
I decided to experiment a little with solar, I'm now living in the Philippines so there's generally no shortage of sun! I bought this exact SCC but it's doing a few things that confuse me, namely, the voltage amps and watts continually change and most confusing, when the voltage from the single 160W Jinko 12V panel goes up, the watts and amps drop sharply, put simply, the controller seems to perpetually mess with the parameters of the panels output, is this normal?
Great video, thanks for opening.
Glad you liked it, and you're welcome! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you
th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Great video.
I’ve been using this charger in Australia for a while on a hobby style set up practising solar energy and I often wondered if I just bought the cheap piece of shit. Now I know i have a cheap good charge controller. I think with this controller it’s important to set it up just as u have shown here to not start any smoke.
Thanku. 👍👍
For the sale price, it's worth it.
I have one of these units.... What is the point of having two terminals for solar input? I I can't find any diagrams or videos or information about anyone using both these terminals. How are they used?
Thank you for the very good and deep explanations. My PowMr is consuming nearly 1 A during the night from the battery. In dark wintertimes in Germany, my battery is being discharged without any consumer attached. Can you confirm approx. 900mA as standby current?
That sounds way to high for a SCC. Maybe my inverter consumes that, but not my SCC!
I wouldn’t trust the Mr. Pow lcd display for accuracy. I had a Makeskyblue 60a controller, identical to the Mr pow that was 35% overstating my pv input. In my case it’s pretty hard to pull 680w from my solar panel, when I only have two 300w panel plugged in to it and it’s winter. I put a clamp meter on it and tested the voltage the old fashion way and it came out to be 440w instead of 680w it was displaying. I exchanged it with the same maker/model and it works fine now.
Cold panels with sun on them produce more power then rated only for little bit until warm
I am so pleased I found your video this evening by accident, because I bought I bought one this morning and didn't know whether or not I did the right thing. You put my mind to rest. Do you know whether this unit causes any RFI in the amateur radio HF bands?
I'm not positive about the RFI, but I'd say no. Thanks for watching! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated.
th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Doug I am not too savvy on this stuff. I have a 36 volt golf cart.do u think I can use a100 watt solar panel to charge it? Or would I need a higher wattage solar panel. Thank you.
Hello Doug, Thank you for always posting informative, great reviews, with a good narative. Very thorough and detailed demo. Your very knowledgeable and credible, thus the long time sub. Happy Thanksgiving, best, C.
Glad you enjoyed the video Cass! Happy Thanksgiving to you too!
i very much want to thank you for such a solid review, thank you.
My pleasure Jason. Always nice to receive positive comments from viewers! You'll definitely like my battery testing and solar video playlists below. Please share. Thank you
th-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU2G9fBmFeWCkxD7kEV2fzXF.html
th-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU2CFaGRj9eB2I38yHnW5FQz.html
load dc jarang di bahas.ngak boleh pakai ini itu.untuk apa di sediakan bang
if we add two batteries, will there be two batteries indicating on the display?
You are a man like me i always experiment with solar items😅
Very nice review, professionally presented. It's indeed a great entry point MPPT CC for people under budget restrictions. You did not mention if is has RS-485 communication with the computer.
I have a few of the make sky blue controllers like this, and a couple EPever controllers, I'm about to put four 270 watt panels on each 60 amp controller, around 72vmp, with 2series, 2parallel, charging a liion batt bank, to about 28.8v , my EPever controllers have 600 watts on each, with the pv at 42vmp, i went with higher voltage, because the pv is going to be up to 100' away, I hope to get a couple 100amp controllers to lessen the number of controllers in the system, I'm also adding more pv, about double the size now, 4400watts, I hope to have about 8-10 kw of pv,
Not a bad serving of alphabet soup, Kirk. One of my favorites. Haha.
wow i bought it after watching this amazing detailed video , this mppt works like a champ , only i wonder if i can add two 12 volts wind turbines to the PV+ and PV- to this mppt connections as the solar panels hits 80 Volts at max and this mppt can handle up to 160 volts or there would cause any problems to the PV panels or the mppt ??? is it possible to connect the wind turbines ? Thank you , all the best .
Thanks for sharing, it's the best set of information for these charge controller
You're welcome Errol! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share my video with others. Thank you
This video is great! I have the same solar charge controller. Thank you for making this informative vid.
So can I run my inverter while batteries are connected to solar charge controller? Please answer lol I've asked sooo many times and no one tells me 😬🤞
@@electronicsNmore Thank you so much.
Very good and understandable review! Great thanks.
Thanks for watching Jack! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated.
th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Hi, I have the same charge control and noticed it goes into night mode during the daytime with full sun?? Also my 24 volt battery pack never goes over 26.8volts after a full day of sun?
Yes.👍 LiFePo4 battery!
You'll find over time that the PowMr rip off of the MakeSkyBlue controller does not track the MPPT nearly as fast. Also in lead acid mode the PowMr 60a would randomly overshoot the maximum voltage. I've had the PowMr ruin a 200ah lead bank. Ever since going MakeSkyBlue all of my problems went way.
First complaint I heard, and I've read MANY reviews. For the money, it's a great deal. I have no way of knowing if you had a bad battery or a faulty unit. Maybe you work MakeSkyBlue.......many unknowns.
@@electronicsNmore I hear you, just sharing my experience. That was a few years ago so they may have fixed the issue by now. Glad to see it's working great on your lithium setup.
Great reviews! Thanks! I just ordered one of these controllers from Banggood using your link. FYI - the $40 coupon code still works. Can you verify something. Can I connect 24V or 48V panels to this controller and charge a 12V battery bank? It looks like yes but I want to be sure. Also, I just watched your Reliable Brand(WZRELB) 3000W inverter test. I have one of these that I have yet to put in service. I can't find your follow-up video that reveals what failed when the 110V output was shorted. Can you provide a link to that video? Thanks!
Using an MPPT, it should not be a problem. Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
th-cam.com/video/K1aUsmZRYRQ/w-d-xo.html
Hello again, I have a panel of 310 w, Luxor brand, and powmr 60 A. On a sunny day I only get 9 watts up to 22 watts, the voltage is at 38.7 V. What can be the problem of low watts? all new installation
Hey, I have PowMr MPPT 60A solar charge controller and 2 batteries solar battery 100Ah 12V EXACT DCS. Which values should I enter for parameters: d01 d02 and d03. Data from solar battery: Trickle charge: 13.6V - 13.8V Type: lead-acidMaximum end-of-charge voltage: 14.6-14.8V? Many greetings
Great video.
Would the set-up you show here work for a Hurricane "kit"
that would at least hold a household reef-er reasonable temperature at and maybe an hr worth of tv time?
My suggestion for a show that would, demonstrate what could do the above an might optimize (and contain) these components in a storable way?
Just an idea...
Cheers from your S. Fl brother.
Go on offerup, buy 2 or 3 solar modules like I have, buy the mppt, connect up your high capacity battery and inverter, and you should be fine.
i hooked mine up this week, i dont know whats true for this, some say 1.5 x battery voltage. i did 146 volts for 48 volt battery. the charging watts on the controller jump around, but the new meter shunt i put in read like 1/3 of what the controller said. i have 14 panels on roof in two strings of 7. each 100 watt. ive only had 2 sunny days and controller said over 1kw then, unsure if things are all working correctly. how do i check?
Please sir, mine shows 00 W meanwhile it is connected to the solar panels and the batteries are connected as well, it does not shoots electricity to the house, the power inverter makes a shriek sound when trying to power it on. Please help
hey would you recommend this charge controller for beginners, I only plan to use this to charge lithium batteries I have a 4S and a 7S (18650 battery is only)
Because of the low price, I would use it. All others are expensive.
bahas dulu load nya bang.apakah tahan 100 watt bolam dc continus 10 hours
In any system involving solar and batteries, efficiency should be close to number 1
This unit does a great job for the low cost. It won't be ideal for every solar installation, but it will definitely be good for many. Thanks for watching!
ce se intimla daca e adag la cele 5panouri de 37v 40a o eoliana de 100w. curentu de la eoliana vine dela reg eolian ,de la 40m?
Mine is pushing 15 volts or more to a 12 volts battery bank. Dont't know what is wrong with it. Settings D01: 13.8 , D02: 14.5.
Can you make one video on block diagram of what is there inside MPPT charge controller?
it works with 2 panels 350w in paralel with 2 bateries 12v 100ah in paralel?
So if I wanted to charge my battery from the wall, could I use an ac to dc converter and plug it into the charge controllers solar input?
Good day,how are you doing?Hope all is well.I would love if you could assist me;A technician lost a parts for this charge controller that you have in this video,you see the screen plug that goes down into the motherboard there is a little black parts above that male plug that has a writing on it which starts with S and ending with a C.I dont know if you could just look on that parts number and let me get it please,I really appreciate it.
Does it actually do 60 amps? Check with meter? I think 60 is more 40amps
I’ve had it for 2 years and just checked. The display shows 50-55 amps but my amp meter shows around 40 amps to the battery. In the video he said his BMS max current was 50 amps and never shut off even though the display was over 60. Should check actual amps coming out from this unit.
This POWMR is a kock off of the "MakeSkyBlue" charger (30A-V118) $80.00; 12V/24V/36V/48V; which means PowMr does not receive the same hardware or software updates.
It's identical to the MakeSkyBlue.
@@electronicsNmore except for the current 119 SkyBlue
Great as usual. I would like to get started experimenting with lifepo4 but I only have like $200 any suggestions. So doggone much fake stuff out there.
Hi Tony. Unless the capacity you need is fairly low, you won't be able to buy too much.
Outstanding educational vid, thx for your skilled work
Glad you enjoyed it Steve! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, use supplied Amazon links to support my channel when making purchases(No additional cost to you), and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks
The main thing wrong with it, (apart from small terminals & 5Amp load output) is no battery temperature sensor. More important in cold climate, but, depending on battery chemistry, a SCC should de-rate the output current as battery temperature rises; not just protect the SCC. These PowMr are copies of “Make Sky Blue” OEM. The 40A & 60A have same circuit board; the 60A fakes the current.
Yes, there's no temp sensor.
I think that function is not the job of the solar charge controller. You are describing a function for a BMS. BMS have temp monitoring for each cell.
I love those batteries. I'm wondering if that controller could be used with a wind turbine.
It wasn't designed for wind use, but that doesn't mean it wouldn't work. Thanks for watching!
Charge controllers deal with variable voltage power sources and convert it to a stable constant voltage & current. Therefore any power supply that is variable and within the specs of the input voltage that this unit accepts then it will work just the same as with a solar array. In this case they only labeled as PV - Photo Voltaic, but many charge controllers MPPT/PWN do carry labeling for Wind/PV power sources and they are all connected to the same +/- terminals on the charge controllers.
no you can not use with wind. this charge controller does not switch fast enough for wind.
@get real I should've worded my response better. Out of the box for wind, no, but I do know a guy that modified either the unit of the wind generator so he was able to use the MPPT shown in this video. I need to find out what he did.
@@electronicsNmore I'm wondering about having a capacitor bank on the turbine to stabilize the voltage and/or the current.
Very good video, just what I needed. Keep it up
Glad it helped!
I heard you mentioned the solar panel is 400watt. 40v 10a . Connected in parallel.
However, on the MPPT, i can see the voltage is 13v and 62a.
The calculation seems mismatch.
I was using (2) 400W panels in parallel. :-)
Just found your channel today and you are great! Question the description of the MPPT controller states that it can be used with Lithium batteries and you demonstrated Lithium Iron Phosphate....what about batteries built with Lithium Ion 18650'S??
Should work fine. A 12v lithium ion battery should have a BMS, all you have to do is set the charging parameters. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore quick follow up...what about a 24 v battery
@@andrewlidums2508 Same answer as above. 24 volt with bms. Can program this mppt with user settings for Lithium cells
Great job. !!!! Very impressed
Glad you liked it!
Interesting. Looking forward to this video. I haven't gotten into diy systems yet. I'm not quite ready. Ha
Thanks for watching!
So to bother you, but how are you showing 60amps with two panels that only max out at 10amps a piece?
Мав цей контролер, лайно. На 30% приблизно завищує показник амперажу, але це не основна проблема. Коли заряд акумулятора наближається до повного, контролер лавинно обвалює напругу на панелях до рівня акумулятора і назад не підніме навіть, як сяде до нуля, поки не перезагрузиш контролер, чи не перетикнеш панелі.
I'll buy one Tuesday! I hope their still on sale
Hello. Can I put 6 x 100 watt 12v panels in series on a 4 x 12v LiFePo4 100 ah batt system? Thank you and more power.
Could you add a video showing how the PV voltage changes while charging a low battery?
I found MPPT controllers are slow at reacting to solar power changes and waste power because the PV will be out of max eff. volt range as it should keep PV at 34, for a 44v open circuit panel as an example.
My EPSOLAR 40A controller hangs at 14v as sun rises and later it will go to 44 and then slowly track down to the ideal 34v.
Nobody has done a video addressing this, I have been searching for.
Thanks good video.
Try one from makeskyblue_usa. Mine are very rapid in their response time. Sean is not only a dealer on Ebay, he is also the factory repair place for the US. PowMr is a knockoff of the older version of MSB units.
Problem is the sun is not perfect. Clouds, shading, temperature. Its 100% going to fluctuate. If the voltage on the PV side changes on the LCD panel it means its adjusting and sweeping to max the MPPT. Note this charger is a light weight MPPT solar charger. I would always buy the 60 amp version and Never max it out. It should last a very long time 3 to 5 years. If you get over 5 years your blessed! Our Beast Out Back FM 80amp Just bit the dust at the 3 year marker. It shut down. a few huge sparks. Some power Mosfets Blew up and it started working again!
What means floating mood ?
Warning:- When battery is being bulk charged at say 14.4Volts for a12V agm battery the charger measures the amount of current drawn by the battery and when current drop off the charger enters float mode say 13.5~13.8V BUT!! if the inverter is connected across the battery running all the time, the charger has no way no knowing if battery is still drawing current or its just driving the load, hence it will stay locked in the state and if solar supply is larger than demand from inverter it will eventually overcharge and destroy the battery! This means you cannot use absorption or bulk charger stages when a load is connected across the battery. Need to adjust voltages so it only float charges at 13.8V max. Not the best as battery may never reach full charge.
Great video thanks! Is there a communication port or a way to get data out of the controller?
No, it's a basic MPPT charge controller. Thanks for watching!
Is powmr still working good
Yes, you can read through comments in the video description area, some viewers have been using them for a 2-3 years. Thanks for watching! Check out my "Solar" video playlist below and most importantly share the link to my channel with others.
th-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU2G9fBmFeWCkxD7kEV2fzXF.html
I am new to PV, but is the breaker on the PV side really needed if it is just one single array? PV modules operate near their short circuit rating from what i read, so if it is more than one array i can see a use case.
I do it without sometimes, but you can always use an inexpensive BUSS fuse and holder. Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks Max
th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
In USA it’s a legal requirement to have double pole disconnect on residential property. You have to disconnect solar before doing and work on wiring, or disconnecting the battery.
Is there no switch on the 5 Amp load output? Also then no LVD / LVR settings? Separate battery protect circuit required. If there was LVD I could use a solid state relay
The load output is a feed from the battery limited to 5 Amps. I have the output connected to a switch for the LED light in my shed.
Just curious, how does the temperature sensor work if you only connect battery polars to the unit?
Temp sensor is a joke. It only reads what's inside the unit. this runs the fan only. It will not help shut the unit down if it over heats =P So many test video's show this.
thank you so much for this video,i have a question,i have the pow mr 60amp controller with two 12v lithium iron 200ah batteries set in parallel,operating voltage 12.8 v and charging voltage is 14.6, confused on step 2 D01 and step 3 D02 could you please help with the propper setting.thank you very much
Hey thanks for this video. I just ordered this one and received it today. I got it to replace a Renogy 40a because it seemed like my Renogy was not charging very well. But when I hook this PowMr up, it is getting more or less the same: only about 5a charge, with 60+ volts from the panels. I have 2x 320 watt panels in series. Why do you get 60a and I only get 5a?? Something is off. Again, the Renogy was getting basically the same numbers. I have an almost identical setup, though I have 2x 12v 200 ah batteries in parallel, for 12v/400ah. Please help!!
I also have this charge control but it's not currently in use.
What I also read about this specific CC is that it also have mppt (max power point tracking) flaw in design.
It get stuck sometimes.
Turning on/off resets mppt function and it starts working properly again...
Please leave me a note is it the same case with your CC ?
Doesn't the high current shorten the battery life and spoil it in a short time, why can't the charge regulators regulate it?
Hello i really like your review on this controller, am most likely buying this through link! I have just 1 question, what does the controller do with the power the solar panels keep generating after the battery bank is full?
Nothing, the flow of current into the battery bank is a trickle when fully charged.
Correct it Hass to dump it somewhere. Where is it going?
@@gabaradama144k9 yea I think it slows the flow and it seems so be doing fine have had it now for as long as my original comment is and it been very good
I need some help, I have a 7S 100P 18650 battery pack, 29v lithium battery,, what would be the best setting for this. If D04 is set to 01 does it all other setting become invalid ?
Great video! I've been searching for the right info as to what fuses to use for my 3000 watt inverter and now I know that I need a 350 amp fuse. Thank you! currently I am using 2 VALENCE LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Magnesium Phosphate Batteries 12v 40Ah U1-12RT wired in parallel, If I add 4 more batteries in parallel, will the fuse stay the same (350 amps)?
Yes, and 350A in a single battery is waay to fast a charge rate, so do it soon or you will reduce battery life
there is any way to set the charging current? i am using it (the easun branded blue one)
I shoulda bought it then, it's now $110
What do I set the float value to for lifepo4 batteries???