Just wait till China start producing them. These are basically quick connectors that are used in car AC's. I predict you will be able to get them for less then $10.
Unless your gauge is only servicing one refrigerant and you're keeping the gas in the hoses in between connections, you're loosing quite a bit more gas from the system by pressurizing the hoses when you connect them to the system than you are by just attaching the hoses and loosing a little hiss or spritz of liquid, aren't you? Unless you're _really_ slow when you screw the fittings on.
@@WaffleStaffel And since refrigerant loss damaging the ozone layer, and now they say ozone safe refrigerants still need to need replaced because they have to high of a (shit I just had training on it and don't recall what the scam was) we gotta switch again. I like pepperage farms remember when we purged and pressure tested R-22 systems with R-12 because it was cheaper than nitrogen. Funny how the OMG R-12 is killing the ozone layer happened when DuPonts patent expired. I also remember then they came for R-22 using the same reasons, so R410A came out. It was said to be ozone friendly, safe for the environment etc. But here we are again, and R410A is evil, and we must replace it with R454B, its already stated that in 10 or so years we will need to replace R454B....do you see the pattern I see?
@@ZERO-F2G- 🎯When patent expired it was ÖƊƤ, then the cow ḟḁṛṫṩ brought ƓẀṖ. I once joked that in 20 years the new hydrofluoroolefins will be phased out because it will be discovered that they're endocrine disruptors. Then I looked it up, and you'll never guess what ḢḞṌ's are...
Lots and lots of units where there's not enough room to fit these due to bad engineering from the manufacturer not thinking about the service techs. Price is too much. Obviously the hoses must still fill up with refrigerant. So there may be less squirts upon connecting and disconnecting, there's still refrigerant loss in the gauges and hoses.
That's why I love the fieldpiece probes and tees and backseat control valves. Incredibly small amount of refrigerant loss when connecting/disconnecting
Not to mention if you leave the hoses pressurized then hang your manifold in the truck on a hot day your gauges could blow a spring with the increased pressure. Don’t ask me how I know.
When I was a kid we lived next door to a dairy. (Back when our town still had milkmen.) The father of one of my schoolmates was one of the drivers. He showed me how they recharged the ammonia refrigerant in their trucks by hooking them up to a big tank with a hose with a fitting like that, but bigger.
Looks like a quick way to connect if you've looking to shave seconds off a job hah! They are pretty clunky though and not every system will have the clearance. I like to use gas retention valve/ core depressor with a T for limiting refrigerant loss. Smart probe on one, and other open for whatever be it charging, micron gauge, etc.
Fieldpiece (JL3) and Testo (an others) make wireless pressure probes that you can connect to low loss fittings. Almost zero refrigerant loss. You can also connect a tee fitting for charging (with a hose of course)
Thank you for the video. How well do these work to pull a vacuum and decay test? Also I checked out the link and these are no longer available. I was also wondering about the new system starting in January 2025 will these work with the new hook up “new refrigerant”?
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 BRO. Go F'ing look it up. You obviously have the internet, or are you severely disabled you can't go type in imperial quick connect into the google and find the shit yourself? How did you manage to stay alive all these years?
This is really good thing bro but I still lose some refrigerant left in the hoses. I try to return as much as possible by letting it go through the suction line but still some of it is always left in them. I guess it’s just a diminimus amount and you just can’t avoid it.
What about the injection of air? I'm not jumping on you. I'm just curious. How can you bleed out that air that exists within the chamber. I appreciate your time making this video.
Now that's a sweet setup there. Time saving & much less loss of refrigerant. Every customer always asks or say I paid for the refrigerant that you just let go. They always say they being the AC guys in the field. We always put in a little extra just for that measure. Yeah okay. 🫣 Love the video! Will definitely check out the expansion and understanding of home units. You would think it would be just the same as commercial but they are not. Fundamentally they run the same but with commercial you have higher voltage either at 240 volts but we ran 277 volts. Contact relays etc etc. I would like to brush up and deeply appreciate the opportunity to possibly join and win something that would progress my knowledge in the field. Thank you kindly 🕊️
There have been designs like those before from about 10 years ago. The problem was when disconnecting if the Schrader valve is bad once you release the fitting, you're gonna have the refrigerant spraying out. With the low loss fitting, as your unscrewing it outside of the initial spurt of refrigerant if for some reason, you detect a more constant release, at that moment, you have the potential to realize that the Schrader valve might have stuck. At that moment, in time, he won't be in as bad a position as you would, as if you just detached the quick coupler and had a dead spray of refrigerant coming out into your face . From what I have been able to tell and I am no engineer by any means is that the standard quarter inch connectors tend to be a piece of brass that screws on and pulls a nylon cone against the valve to seal it. The anti-blowback/loss fittings Are basically the same thing except instead of having the nylon cone they use the same thing that those fittings use which is an O-ring to seal when they are tightened.
It seems convenient. I would not change over to prevent refrigerant burns. I would do it for the convenience of Not having to twist on and off traditional fittings. It gets tedious after years in the trade
And you'll end up contaminating the refrigerant in the process. The o rings do not ever need to be lubed in this application. If anything, the ONLY safe lube to use would be Nylog.
Show me how they work in the most common scenario. Make sure it's hot AF outside, have the system running and in the same continuous video frame, show me the loss using the conventional hose connectors and then with these unique adapters. And are the orings unique in size to the adapters, thereby marrying me to this company for a $50 bag of $2.00 orings every few months?
Looks like a great product for test ports that are easily accessible and pointing in the right direction. Seems where you would need these the most you wouldn’t have the clearance, Clarence.
I switch my gaskets the moment I see them wear and keep the valve depressor a bit tucked I hardly have any leaking I also don’t use hoses only probes Just an idea for techs out there I’ll go through a pack of seals per season Not too bad. They’re like $10 bucks
Yellow jacket 18993’s Also turn your Hermetic service ports into semi service ports so you can bleed the pressure down.(IYKYK) They are also low loss 🎉
Shoot, I've been using a set of those for over 5 years. But be aware, when you pop off that high side the O-Ring is going to fly out, so keep it close to the fitting or put a rag around it, also it does not like to go on if there is pressure in the hose.
What lube can be used on O Ring to keep them from tearing? I normally use food grad silicone. Very nice fittings. Sure as time goes, someone will make cheaper or similar product. Enjoy your channel, you KISS
I noticed a lot of people talking about refrigerant still being in the hoses. Do you not know how to easily suck it buck into the system? One of the first things I learned when being taught how to use gauges.
They came and gave us some samples when I used to work at Johnstone. Very cool and high quality product, but too expensive and sometimes impracticable due to the clearance you need to connect. We chose not to stock them and I’ve never seen anyone else with them. My current fieldpiece Joblink probes have the best connectors hands down. They aren’t the giant low loss, minimal and just great quality.
You're looking at around 3 oz of refrigerant per hose loss every time you connect a manifold set with standard length hoses. Do that enough times and you ARE the leak. Yes, you could disconnect the high-side and pump the gauges down but you're looking at possible contaminants or a non-condensable unless you bled your manifold first. Anytime you open a system to check pressures there is going to be a loss, the idea is to limit that as much as possible. When I got to the point, I needed to check super-heat or sub-cooling I had over the years, built multiple sets consisting of only of high and low side gauges dependent on the equipment connected directly to a low loss access fitting. A simple Cooper electronic thermometer with decent set of clamp-on probes will with those gauges tell you everything you need to know and the refrigerant loss is much less than with a manifold even if it's properly bled and pumped down. Here is where I piss a lot of people off, why did you open that system to install a manifold in the first place? If you've got a good TD, compressor amps are in a narrow range of 80% FLA , you KNOW the coils are clean and airflow correct and there are no odd noises or vibrations what are you looking for? TD will point you toward airflow, capacity or refrigerant, compressor amps will point you to refrigerant, or an electrical/mechanical issue. Unless something is pointing you in that direction why are you opening a system?
Spot on! WHY IS THIS SO HARD FOR SO MANY TO UNDERSTAND? I have tried to drill this into younger techs for 30 years, sometimes with effect but mostly not. I still battle it and the techs say they do it because the home owner expects it. Which tell me I need to get them trained in explaining why they don't need to hook up unless their is an issue, they can gather all the info needed if their isn't an issue without hooking up. Sometimes I am told they do it because the customer expects it, thus more training is needed so the can educate the costumer on why and when to hook up or not.
@@ZERO-F2G- I think that's the way they are trained in many of the technical schools these days. The biggest problem is I've seen so many that all they did was hook up a set of gauges not realizing that is only one of the tools you can use. Another problem I've seen are kids coming from technical schools that cannot calculate super-heat or sub-cooling unless they have a electronic manifold that tells them what it is. That indicates to me they really don't understand the concept and are just doing what they've been instructed to do. It also means when they run into their first "problem child" they are going to be stuck and have no idea what to do next. The smart ones, who realize they don't know everything and there is always something new to learn will ask for help from the manufacturer or a more experienced tech. The others are just another call back waiting to happen. Experience will eventually level the playing field. We all run into something we've never seen for the first time. It's how we handle and work through it that makes the difference.
Couldn't agree more!! Hooking up gauges is a last resort!! I just got hired at a company. I've been in the field several years. They told me I had to check pressures on every maintenance. I said "nope! Not doing that" if you are a decent technician, you will understand why hooking up gauges should be done only when you have no other option. You can check the charge using other methods; check the outdoor ambient temperature and compare it to the temperature coming out of the top of the condenser. Use a temp clamp and check the temperature of the line set. Check DT... Sooooo many things you can check before having to hook up gauges.
I got burned pretty badly in my first month, having to go to a burn center and be out for like a month almost, but that was before i knew about the two finger method... but there is certain situations where its basically impossible when its in a dumb spot, so this would be good for that but man i hope they dial that price back
I would like to know if I can put a sequencer ( time delay ) after the contactor to my compressor and which load voltage line do I use . Do I put it on the black that goes directly to the compressor after the contacter or what . I know that I have to put 24 in line to the contact too the time delay . Put can this be done ? And will effect the compressor in any way. Other than 1) it will first make the condenser fan will start first and after a few seconds the time delay will make the compressor start. What do u think !!!!! And how
So basically these are higher quality of these $9 ones? "Flexzion Car AC R134a Quick Connectors System Port Adapters Couplers Low High Set Conversion Kit for HVAC Auto Air conditioning with Manifold Hose Gauge"
If you’re just checking pressures use probes, these will just give you contamination on the next unit you hook up to. If you let liquid out of your hoses, you’re doing it wrong, heat up your hose by rubbing it to boil it off.
I have a ball valve on my high side and always charge it back through the low side before disconnecting. there's basically zero loss that way, only a minuscule amount of vapor
Brother I love it, but there’s some units their not going to work on because their so long and the idiot way they designed some of the old units. I love it though and would buy it.
Looks like somthing a young kid would waist money on 200 bucks for somthing that will fit maby 60 percent of units I work on might suggest good pair of gloves for 20 bucks
True. There are a lot of units you could get one of these on and not the other. Im about to upgrade and get the job link setup. Those wireless/hoseless ones barely release any refrigerant. But, like these, they just can't be used sometimes.
Those fitting are to large in lots of situation. I used low loss fitting and they worked good. The best solution I found was to use a regular fitting with the hand operated shot off valve about 5 inches back on the hose so the refer loss is hardly nothing
@@diyhvacguy the reason I say this is when I saw how the adapter connects to the hose “dock”, it makes it stick out very far and if anything presses down on it, the thing is gonna snap. I don’t have to connect hoses all day like a lot of techs so this might be great for you, but not for me. I’ll thread my fittings thank you.
You've just been watching youtube videos waiting to find out about new inventions that have been around for 40 years? You need to get the F off your phone bro.... Just walk away
I haven't used gauges in 5 years. Probes are the way to go. Thread the depresser in your tee and you don't lose refrigerant. Cool concept but won't fit in a lit of applications due to size.
Really? Not once? In the past 35 years I have done it a few times because sometimes you're just dealing with a nightmare of a installation that some got away with and you just do the best you can.
@@July4.1776 oh idk failed core? Literally several reasons besides technician error that can cause it, which is how I know you're full of shit. The fact you are so confident in "never" is how I know you're just a liar dude.
You would think with the under the EPA’s standard minimum refrigerant loss that these type of connectors would be standardized and way ahead of their time. Usually a great deal of refrigerant is lost in tight areas in struggling to get on and off especially high side.
Okay so cool idea but that just made me think of an idea... why not just use pressure transducers to read pressures with out a manifold, so no long line set and you just want to see what pressures you're seeing in the system. Maybe make it so the low side has a port to add refrigerant so then you wouldn't need to disconnect anything and no loss at all....
I think that the Sealright hoses work great and are a fraction of the price. You lose an extremely minimal amount, if any, refrigerant. I've used these hoses for a couple of years now.
Why? 36 years in the trade, standard low loss fittings for a tenth of that price have served me well. I see no reason to purchase this item, especially at the ridiculous price.
25% of the reviews on amazon are 1 star. People are saying the O-ring pops out on the high side when you remove it. I think I'll wait until the price comes down and the reliability goes up.
Not sure I'd want to store my lines and gauge set pressurized. Kinda like a torque wrench, always move it back to zero. I think wireless gauges would be better, very little loss. These built into the wireless gauge would be best.
You don't need even low loss fittings. If you're getting blow back you need to adjust the schrader depressor using a schrader removal tool/needlenose... I have 0 blowback or issues using standard fittings.
just as recent as last week, r410a cost me $236 per 25lb jug. To think i would spend $200 for each set (straight and 90 degree) of these, is ludicrous to save a couple of squirts of refrigerant(especially, when the EPA said that a small amount of refrigerant loss is acceptable when connect and disconnect hoses). This is for the new techs only. As for seasoned HVAC+R techs, if you have been doing HVAC for a while, you know that there are, at least. three cheaper more effective ways to minimize refrigerant loss, than even the low loss fittings.
I thought maybe $50 at the high side, but $200!! I rather lose a bit of freon.
Just wait till China start producing them. These are basically quick connectors that are used in car AC's. I predict you will be able to get them for less then $10.
Unless your gauge is only servicing one refrigerant and you're keeping the gas in the hoses in between connections, you're loosing quite a bit more gas from the system by pressurizing the hoses when you connect them to the system than you are by just attaching the hoses and loosing a little hiss or spritz of liquid, aren't you? Unless you're _really_ slow when you screw the fittings on.
@@WaffleStaffel And since refrigerant loss damaging the ozone layer, and now they say ozone safe refrigerants still need to need replaced because they have to high of a (shit I just had training on it and don't recall what the scam was) we gotta switch again.
I like pepperage farms remember when we purged and pressure tested R-22 systems with R-12 because it was cheaper than nitrogen.
Funny how the OMG R-12 is killing the ozone layer happened when DuPonts patent expired. I also remember then they came for R-22 using the same reasons, so R410A came out. It was said to be ozone friendly, safe for the environment etc.
But here we are again, and R410A is evil, and we must replace it with R454B, its already stated that in 10 or so years we will need to replace R454B....do you see the pattern I see?
@@ZERO-F2G- 🎯When patent expired it was ÖƊƤ, then the cow ḟḁṛṫṩ brought ƓẀṖ. I once joked that in 20 years the new hydrofluoroolefins will be phased out because it will be discovered that they're endocrine disruptors. Then I looked it up, and you'll never guess what ḢḞṌ's are...
@@ZERO-F2G-not a pattern but a plan
I have quick disconnects on my manifold hoses I've had for 30 years. A two piece connector. Similar principle, different design.
Ant chance we can get the brand name?
Did yours cost $200? LOL
@@jims.3987 Can't remember that from that long ago. But I'm fairly certain it wasn't!! LoL
Lots and lots of units where there's not enough room to fit these due to bad engineering from the manufacturer not thinking about the service techs. Price is too much. Obviously the hoses must still fill up with refrigerant. So there may be less squirts upon connecting and disconnecting, there's still refrigerant loss in the gauges and hoses.
That's why I love the fieldpiece probes and tees and backseat control valves. Incredibly small amount of refrigerant loss when connecting/disconnecting
Not to mention if you leave the hoses pressurized then hang your manifold in the truck on a hot day your gauges could blow a spring with the increased pressure. Don’t ask me how I know.
You could always give proper procedures a try and have virtually little to no refrigerant in your hoses when finished, give it a try.
@@davidlundy5007 That would be a lesson learned. Just don’t do that. Simple.
When I was a kid we lived next door to a dairy. (Back when our town still had milkmen.) The father of one of my schoolmates was one of the drivers. He showed me how they recharged the ammonia refrigerant in their trucks by hooking them up to a big tank with a hose with a fitting like that, but bigger.
IMPERIAL QUICK COUPLER $20.00 AND $30.00 FOR 90 DEGREE ONE. I HAVE USED THESE FOR YEARS.
Links please .
@@3markaw Do a google search...easy to find.
@@3markaw www.google.com/search?q=imperial+quick+coupler&rlz=1C1GCEO_enUS1001US1001&oq=&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCQgAEEUYOxjCAzIJCAAQRRg7GMIDMgkIARBFGDsYwgMyCQgCEEUYOxjCAzIJCAMQRRg7GMIDMgkIBBBFGDsYwgMyCQgFEEUYOxjCAzIJCAYQRRg7GMIDMgkIBxBFGDsYwgPSAQkxNTU1ajBqMTWoAgiwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
yeah link. these cost a lot
Yeah, link?
That price, ouch. Just get some Yellow Jacket 45 degrees low loss fittings. Lower profile and work great.
Exactly, these are not revolutionary, and he is only making this video for the kickback he gets, I doubt he actually prefers them in the real world.
That connection looks amazing! I like to hear the sound when the quick coupler connecting to the valves. 😊
Looks like a quick way to connect if you've looking to shave seconds off a job hah! They are pretty clunky though and not every system will have the clearance. I like to use gas retention valve/ core depressor with a T for limiting refrigerant loss. Smart probe on one, and other open for whatever be it charging, micron gauge, etc.
Fieldpiece (JL3) and Testo (an others) make wireless pressure probes that you can connect to low loss fittings. Almost zero refrigerant loss.
You can also connect a tee fitting for charging (with a hose of course)
It's what I use and zero refrigerant burn with extremely low loss. I swear by them. Great product
Welp. I am waiting for wifi refrigerant charging and then I will buy the ridiculously priced fitting that have been around for 100 years.
Can these work of field piece probes?
Thank you for the video.
How well do these work to pull a vacuum and decay test?
Also I checked out the link and these are no longer available.
I was also wondering about the new system starting in January 2025 will these work with the new hook up “new refrigerant”?
First time seeing those connectors. Will have to try them out. They look like a game-changer!
Imperial has been making something even more simple for years.
Really? Share the info. link. Thanks.
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 Another lazy person. Do a search for "Imperial Quick Couplers"
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 I can’t get the link to attach. Do an online search for Imperial-Eastman Kwik-coupler.
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 BRO. Go F'ing look it up. You obviously have the internet, or are you severely disabled you can't go type in imperial quick connect into the google and find the shit yourself? How did you manage to stay alive all these years?
This is really good thing bro but I still lose some refrigerant left in the hoses. I try to return as much as possible by letting it go through the suction line but still some of it is always left in them. I guess it’s just a diminimus amount and you just can’t avoid it.
How? do you have valves at the end of your hoses?
What about the injection of air? I'm not jumping on you. I'm just curious. How can you bleed out that air that exists within the chamber. I appreciate your time making this video.
For 220.00 bucks, keep it. I have been doing it so long it’s never a problem.
You've been doing it so long and can't afford 220? Lol are you the help still?
🤣
Wait for the chinese knockoffs at Harbor Freight.
Yea. 220 is ridiculous. Regular low low fitting are good enough. Young guns always trying to reinvent the wheel. 😢.
Good idea, I’m thinking $79 for the pair
Yea, we have them, good luck with the high side right now on high pressure refrigerants. Hope they figure it out.
Now that's a sweet setup there. Time saving & much less loss of refrigerant. Every customer always asks or say I paid for the refrigerant that you just let go. They always say they being the AC guys in the field. We always put in a little extra just for that measure. Yeah okay. 🫣 Love the video! Will definitely check out the expansion and understanding of home units. You would think it would be just the same as commercial but they are not. Fundamentally they run the same but with commercial you have higher voltage either at 240 volts but we ran 277 volts. Contact relays etc etc. I would like to brush up and deeply appreciate the opportunity to possibly join and win something that would progress my knowledge in the field. Thank you kindly 🕊️
There have been designs like those before from about 10 years ago.
The problem was when disconnecting if the Schrader valve is bad once you release the fitting, you're gonna have the refrigerant spraying out.
With the low loss fitting, as your unscrewing it outside of the initial spurt of refrigerant if for some reason, you detect a more constant release, at that moment, you have the potential to realize that the Schrader valve might have stuck.
At that moment, in time, he won't be in as bad a position as you would, as if you just detached the quick coupler and had a dead spray of refrigerant coming out into your face .
From what I have been able to tell and I am no engineer by any means is that the standard quarter inch connectors tend to be a piece of brass that screws on and pulls a nylon cone against the valve to seal it. The anti-blowback/loss fittings Are basically the same thing except instead of having the nylon cone they use the same thing that those fittings use which is an O-ring to seal when they are tightened.
It seems convenient. I would not change over to prevent refrigerant burns. I would do it for the convenience of
Not having to twist on and off traditional fittings. It gets tedious after years in the trade
Those are really neat, but WOW are they proud of them!!!! $219 for the 90* ones (straight are unavailable).
All you need are valves and the knowledge to close the liquid line and evacuate your hoses before disconnecting and be fast
When changing O rings I would lubricate them with vaseline or DC-4 to help them last, good info here. FLY NAVY!!!
And you'll end up contaminating the refrigerant in the process. The o rings do not ever need to be lubed in this application. If anything, the ONLY safe lube to use would be Nylog.
Show me how they work in the most common scenario. Make sure it's hot AF outside, have the system running and in the same continuous video frame, show me the loss using the conventional hose connectors and then with these unique adapters. And are the orings unique in size to the adapters, thereby marrying me to this company for a $50 bag of $2.00 orings every few months?
they are dam near impossible to get on when the pressure is high, hot day etc. Even on the low side.
😂😂😂😂
Hold my beer and give me damn hoses son. Gotta toughen them hands up 10 plus years hooking gauges up everyday.
I’ve seen those safety gloves get frozen into someone’s hand do not use!!!
May be a good investment with the new "reverse thread" systems coming out. Wont need to be buying adaptors or new hoses just for those.
Looks like a great product for test ports that are easily accessible and pointing in the right direction. Seems where you would need these the most you wouldn’t have the clearance, Clarence.
I switch my gaskets the moment I see them wear and keep the valve depressor a bit tucked
I hardly have any leaking
I also don’t use hoses only probes
Just an idea for techs out there
I’ll go through a pack of seals per season
Not too bad. They’re like $10 bucks
Yellow jacket 18993’s
Also turn your Hermetic service ports into semi service ports so you can bleed the pressure down.(IYKYK)
They are also low loss 🎉
Shoot, I've been using a set of those for over 5 years. But be aware, when you pop off that high side the O-Ring is going to fly out, so keep it close to the fitting or put a rag around it, also it does not like to go on if there is pressure in the hose.
Good luck getting those on a Goodman system
Is there a part number for this or link for this item , interested
What lube can be used on O Ring to keep them from tearing? I normally use food grad silicone. Very nice fittings. Sure as time goes, someone will make cheaper or similar product. Enjoy your channel, you KISS
I noticed a lot of people talking about refrigerant still being in the hoses. Do you not know how to easily suck it buck into the system? One of the first things I learned when being taught how to use gauges.
For $220? No way Jose.
The film was re-edited on the high side connection.....???
Amazing that these are just coming out now, I always wondered why we didn't have snap fittings like this.
They came and gave us some samples when I used to work at Johnstone. Very cool and high quality product, but too expensive and sometimes impracticable due to the clearance you need to connect.
We chose not to stock them and I’ve never seen anyone else with them. My current fieldpiece Joblink probes have the best connectors hands down. They aren’t the giant low loss, minimal and just great quality.
LOVE ALL OF YOUR ADVICE. THANKS SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can you do a second review of them in full use? With unit running I’m thinking of ordering some
You're looking at around 3 oz of refrigerant per hose loss every time you connect a manifold set with standard length hoses. Do that enough times and you ARE the leak. Yes, you could disconnect the high-side and pump the gauges down but you're looking at possible contaminants or a non-condensable unless you bled your manifold first. Anytime you open a system to check pressures there is going to be a loss, the idea is to limit that as much as possible. When I got to the point, I needed to check super-heat or sub-cooling I had over the years, built multiple sets consisting of only of high and low side gauges dependent on the equipment connected directly to a low loss access fitting. A simple Cooper electronic thermometer with decent set of clamp-on probes will with those gauges tell you everything you need to know and the refrigerant loss is much less than with a manifold even if it's properly bled and pumped down. Here is where I piss a lot of people off, why did you open that system to install a manifold in the first place? If you've got a good TD, compressor amps are in a narrow range of 80% FLA , you KNOW the coils are clean and airflow correct and there are no odd noises or vibrations what are you looking for? TD will point you toward airflow, capacity or refrigerant, compressor amps will point you to refrigerant, or an electrical/mechanical issue. Unless something is pointing you in that direction why are you opening a system?
I’m only a home owner diy wannabe ac tech
(I try my best to fix things)
but I think your comment might be of obvious brilliance.
Thanks.
Spot on!
WHY IS THIS SO HARD FOR SO MANY TO UNDERSTAND?
I have tried to drill this into younger techs for 30 years, sometimes with effect but mostly not. I still battle it and the techs say they do it because the home owner expects it. Which tell me I need to get them trained in explaining why they don't need to hook up unless their is an issue, they can gather all the info needed if their isn't an issue without hooking up.
Sometimes I am told they do it because the customer expects it, thus more training is needed so the can educate the costumer on why and when to hook up or not.
@@ZERO-F2G- I think that's the way they are trained in many of the technical schools these days. The biggest problem is I've seen so many that all they did was hook up a set of gauges not realizing that is only one of the tools you can use.
Another problem I've seen are kids coming from technical schools that cannot calculate super-heat or sub-cooling unless they have a electronic manifold that tells them what it is. That indicates to me they really don't understand the concept and are just doing what they've been instructed to do.
It also means when they run into their first "problem child" they are going to be stuck and have no idea what to do next. The smart ones, who realize they don't know everything and there is always something new to learn will ask for help from the manufacturer or a more experienced tech. The others are just another call back waiting to happen.
Experience will eventually level the playing field. We all run into something we've never seen for the first time. It's how we handle and work through it that makes the difference.
Couldn't agree more!! Hooking up gauges is a last resort!! I just got hired at a company. I've been in the field several years. They told me I had to check pressures on every maintenance. I said "nope! Not doing that" if you are a decent technician, you will understand why hooking up gauges should be done only when you have no other option. You can check the charge using other methods; check the outdoor ambient temperature and compare it to the temperature coming out of the top of the condenser. Use a temp clamp and check the temperature of the line set. Check DT... Sooooo many things you can check before having to hook up gauges.
3 oz of loss my ass. You are full of shit.
I got burned pretty badly in my first month, having to go to a burn center and be out for like a month almost, but that was before i knew about the two finger method... but there is certain situations where its basically impossible when its in a dumb spot, so this would be good for that but man i hope they dial that price back
Added benefit is that the Low Lose Fittings keep your fingers future away from the ports on the AC unit.
I would like to know if I can put a sequencer ( time delay ) after the contactor to my compressor and which load voltage line do I use . Do I put it on the black that goes directly to the compressor after the contacter or what . I know that I have to put 24 in line to the contact too the time delay . Put can this be done ? And will effect the compressor in any way. Other than 1) it will first make the condenser fan will start first and after a few seconds the time delay will make the compressor start. What do u think !!!!! And how
$200.00 that’s stupid waste of money.
Yeah but throwing down $1000 for digital gauges isn’t, 😂
Speak for yourself. Stupid to you but not to others.
@TheCherokeeKidd well, they are supposed to be very accurate and all that jazz..
So basically these are higher quality of these $9 ones?
"Flexzion Car AC R134a Quick Connectors System Port Adapters Couplers Low High Set Conversion Kit for HVAC Auto Air conditioning with Manifold Hose Gauge"
@@TheCherokeeKiddtrue that
If you’re just checking pressures use probes, these will just give you contamination on the next unit you hook up to. If you let liquid out of your hoses, you’re doing it wrong, heat up your hose by rubbing it to boil it off.
Or vent the high side to the low side for a second or two....
@@GaryGipsonI was just shown this method. Don't know why I hadn't been shown before.
I am also buying the fieldpiece job link set with the probes
I have a ball valve on my high side and always charge it back through the low side before disconnecting. there's basically zero loss that way, only a minuscule amount of vapor
Brother I love it, but there’s some units their not going to work on because their so long and the idiot way they designed some of the old units. I love it though and would buy it.
Imperial part number 16C and 17C. Available from Zoro tools or Amazon.
I got a set 2y ago and they never worked but I will try again lol 2ed time may work thanks for the video
They require some technique for sure
How do you pull/replace Schraders with these in place 🤷♂️🤦♂️
$200 is more than many gauges themselves.
Yeah but if you do hvac full time you aint buying no 200 gauges
@@GenghisDMZ have you seen the Navac analog gauges? Plus that logic doesn't undo overpricing.
@@realSamAndrew ok poor guy who doesn't take his trade/work seriously.
@@GenghisDMZ you love the name calling and personal attacks. Good luck with that.
@@realSamAndrew go cry apprentice
Do they make them for 5/16'' ports that are used on some mini-splits?
As far as limiting refrigerant loss, I don't think anything works better than a thumb screw core depressor.
Why are they not available to buy anywhere?
Not available anymore on Amazon
Looks like somthing a young kid would waist money on 200 bucks for somthing that will fit maby 60 percent of units I work on might suggest good pair of gloves for 20 bucks
True. There are a lot of units you could get one of these on and not the other. Im about to upgrade and get the job link setup. Those wireless/hoseless ones barely release any refrigerant. But, like these, they just can't be used sometimes.
Tools tools tools! Great video, very informational! Keep up the great work!! ❤
My YJ R134A connectors lock on and then screw down to open the valve. Reverse to remove. Nothing but the slightest pop when disconnecting.
How do you start in one corner?
Those fitting are to large in lots of situation. I used low loss fitting and they worked good. The best solution I found was to use a regular fitting with the hand operated shot off valve about 5 inches back on the hose so the refer loss is hardly nothing
I see you using these for this season but I’ll bet they’ll be tucked away in the “regrets” drawer by next season.
We will see
@@diyhvacguy the reason I say this is when I saw how the adapter connects to the hose “dock”, it makes it stick out very far and if anything presses down on it, the thing is gonna snap. I don’t have to connect hoses all day like a lot of techs so this might be great for you, but not for me. I’ll thread my fittings thank you.
I’ve been waiting on something like this. Hopefully they’ll be less expensive in the near future.
Equal or better options have existed for way less money for 30+ years.
Link pls
You've just been watching youtube videos waiting to find out about new inventions that have been around for 40 years?
You need to get the F off your phone bro.... Just walk away
I haven't used gauges in 5 years. Probes are the way to go. Thread the depresser in your tee and you don't lose refrigerant. Cool concept but won't fit in a lit of applications due to size.
20 years in the trade and I’ve never used gloves to connect gauges, also I’ve never been burned by refrigerant.
Really? Not once? In the past 35 years I have done it a few times because sometimes you're just dealing with a nightmare of a installation that some got away with and you just do the best you can.
@@KO-pk7df damn, 35 years in the trade! I have much respect for the veterans in the trade.
yea, I'm sure literally never. Smh. Ok dispatch.
@@ChristopherSugg - never once! Always had valves at the end of my hoses. How the hell would I burn myself?
@@July4.1776 oh idk failed core? Literally several reasons besides technician error that can cause it, which is how I know you're full of shit. The fact you are so confident in "never" is how I know you're just a liar dude.
hmm how much for the digital manifold?
Wait... wireless clamps on The sman?????
You would think with the under the EPA’s standard minimum refrigerant loss that these type of connectors would be standardized and way ahead of their time. Usually a great deal of refrigerant is lost in tight areas in struggling to get on and off especially high side.
Amen.
Currently Unavailable and $220 bucks. Yikes! The FF or frostbite factor is more of what I am concerned about! Wear good gloves to disconnect.
Okay so cool idea but that just made me think of an idea... why not just use pressure transducers to read pressures with out a manifold, so no long line set and you just want to see what pressures you're seeing in the system. Maybe make it so the low side has a port to add refrigerant so then you wouldn't need to disconnect anything and no loss at all....
won't fit any 410A systems
does this work with mini split?
Nice, but won’t fit on a lot of units that has great design, sometimes u struggle to attach regular guage tip lol
Ware I can order the low fittings from where
very cool fittings Thanks
Love the video, but those don’t look like refrigerant gloves gonna make the burns worse bro
I think that the Sealright hoses work great and are a fraction of the price. You lose an extremely minimal amount, if any, refrigerant. I've used these hoses for a couple of years now.
Could you refer an installer if I buy the equipment. I like in Sandy utah. Would it be hard to find a installer?
Live
You can buy the CPS core depressors for 1/4 of that price.
If you’re getting a refrigerant burn from a low loss fitting, it’s either bad gaskets/rings or user error…
Thank You just put my order in for the Quick Fittings.
Why?
36 years in the trade, standard low loss fittings for a tenth of that price have served me well. I see no reason to purchase this item, especially at the ridiculous price.
When are you going to make the video on how to get the epa license?
I like it bro good job for always trying to better yourself
25% of the reviews on amazon are 1 star. People are saying the O-ring pops out on the high side when you remove it. I think I'll wait until the price comes down and the reliability goes up.
Not sure I'd want to store my lines and gauge set pressurized. Kinda like a torque wrench, always move it back to zero. I think wireless gauges would be better, very little loss. These built into the wireless gauge would be best.
Do they have these for 5/16 ports
Not available on Amazon
Wish they worked properly, excellent idea.
Very nice! That is a time saver.
Yes it will save you approximately 1 second over existing low loss fittings that cost 20 dollars.
Or you can use low loss fititngs, but they are getting mildly pricy. I use $12 c&d core depressors. Very simple. And a little bit more cost effective
You don't need even low loss fittings. If you're getting blow back you need to adjust the schrader depressor using a schrader removal tool/needlenose... I have 0 blowback or issues using standard fittings.
The only thing with these is they sometimes don't fit in very tight areas especially when doing commercial refrigeration
both "Unavailable" at the linked location.
$200 gets you nice coilovers set for a civic/crx
Nice is a strong word bruh.
Solowerks maybe. LOL
And who even talks about CRX's. You are OLD.... hahaha
@@jims.3987lol
It doesn't matter what the cost is, two days after the video release and they are no longer available on Amazon.
As a DIY'er, where could I buy refrigerant to top off my system?
As a DIYer, you probably can't, but I'm no expert.
The ultimate test is to hook up in cold weather when all you have is liquid at both valves btw. 😅
all in a days work...Amazing!
I thought like $50 for both max.. but $320 ?! Fuck that ! 😀
😂
That’s pretty 😎 cool do you have the link for it?😊 expensive but I can definitely use a special we use every day.
just as recent as last week, r410a cost me $236 per 25lb jug. To think i would spend $200 for each set (straight and 90 degree) of these, is ludicrous to save a couple of squirts of refrigerant(especially, when the EPA said that a small amount of refrigerant loss is acceptable when connect and disconnect hoses). This is for the new techs only. As for seasoned HVAC+R techs, if you have been doing HVAC for a while, you know that there are, at least. three cheaper more effective ways to minimize refrigerant loss, than even the low loss fittings.
Absolute game changer