This is a video on how to troubleshoot a home gas fired boiler. This is more of a system troubleshooting guide to determine if the overall system has a problem.
excellent video.. Great Explanations..... I have to ask, why would someone install that Expansion Tank like that? Horizontal and straight out, unsupported. The Torque on that Connection point is large.. but if that Tank fails and water fills it up.. well then.. That tank will snap off and there will be nonstop flooding until someone stops the water feeder.... YIKESl...
While I agree with you on how it’s not supported the mounting position does not matter. With that said it’s been like this for at least 20 years that I know of. If it needed to be changed I’d have it changed. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Well I take care of a school and a synagogue and they have boilers and I've been told and I'm no expert. But I have a friend that has a heating and air company and he is gives me pointers ,if I remember right so the boiler does not soot up .. Water should be about a 170 degrees boiler water temperature. And I think he said there's the boiler loop and the building loop that's why the boiler loop which is the piping in the boiler should stay at 170 and the building then taps off of that.And the pop-off valve is 30 PSI so I usually run 20 psi in the system water..And I know every fall never fails I have to bleed the air at the second floor classrooms and I believe the air at each one of the below the window radiators. Stuff is so old most of the valves don't work they are vacuum activated ,so I have to have actuate them myself I know that a lot of things come into play like how good the building is insulated walls ceiling how tight the building is so it doesn't get air intrusion from the outside some buildings have an exchange type pipe to bring in fresh air and that has to have a heat radiator in it otherwise you get some real cold air in the basement or wherever it ends up. I remember doing heating and air conditioning especially in apartments back in 1985 we had a real heat Wave here in Indiana and people were complaining and they were old air conditioning units split units. And I told him you know it's taking the moisture out of the air and that's the first thing the air conditioner does and if it gets 19° lower than it is outside it's working real good. I think it was 106 or 108 here at the time. Stay warm we're supposed to be getting back in the fifties today after 3 or 4 days ago being 20 below...
I would like to clear somethings up from the video. First off thanks for a video to help people understand how a boiler works and heats. The pressure in the boiler is good @ 12-15 psi up to 2 floors above the boiler. If you are going to have more than 15 psi the air charge in the tank should be increased. The air charge in the expansion tank and water charge should be equal or close to the same pressure. Unfortunately you can/t tell how much air pressure you have in the tank with water pressure on the tank. With the air pressure not known I would keep the pressure near 12 psi to avoid premature failure of the tank. A quick test to get an idea is to wait until the boiler cools off and check the pressure on the gage. Let the boiler run to meet the high setting on the control. If the pressure climbs more than 3 psi the air charge is low or the tank is undersized. If your home is not heating well at the much colder outdoor temperatures turn the water temperatures in this video up to 180-200. While the setting of 160f is more efficient, a warm house is also nice. You can turn it back down after the extreme cold snap.
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excellent video.. Great Explanations..... I have to ask, why would someone install that Expansion Tank like that? Horizontal and straight out, unsupported. The Torque on that Connection point is large.. but if that Tank fails and water fills it up.. well then.. That tank will snap off and there will be nonstop flooding until someone stops the water feeder.... YIKESl...
While I agree with you on how it’s not supported the mounting position does not matter.
With that said it’s been like this for at least 20 years that I know of.
If it needed to be changed I’d have it changed.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Good job 👍
@@maheradous9257 thank you
Well I take care of a school and a synagogue and they have boilers and I've been told and I'm no expert. But I have a friend that has a heating and air company and he is gives me pointers ,if I remember right so the boiler does not soot up ..
Water should be about a 170 degrees boiler water temperature. And I think he said there's the boiler loop and the building loop that's why the boiler loop which is the piping in the boiler should stay at 170 and the building then taps off of that.And the pop-off valve is 30 PSI so I usually run 20 psi in the system water..And I know every fall never fails I have to bleed the air at the second floor classrooms and I believe the air at each one of the below the window radiators. Stuff is so old most of the valves don't work they are vacuum activated ,so I have to have actuate them myself
I know that a lot of things come into play like how good the building is insulated walls ceiling how tight the building is so it doesn't get air intrusion from the outside some buildings have an exchange type pipe to bring in fresh air and that has to have a heat radiator in it otherwise you get some real cold air in the basement or wherever it ends up. I remember doing heating and air conditioning especially in apartments back in 1985 we had a real heat Wave here in Indiana and people were complaining and they were old air conditioning units split units. And I told him you know it's taking the moisture out of the air and that's the first thing the air conditioner does and if it gets 19° lower than it is outside it's working real good. I think it was 106 or 108 here at the time. Stay warm we're supposed to be getting back in the fifties today after 3 or 4 days ago being 20 below...
Cool and good to know. Thank you for sharing and thank you for watching.
When I push in the schrader valve above the expansion tank water comes out, is that normal or should there be a little air in it?
Should be air not water. Sounds like you’re expansion tank bladder is bad
I would like to clear somethings up from the video. First off thanks for a video to help people understand how a boiler works and heats.
The pressure in the boiler is good @ 12-15 psi up to 2 floors above the boiler. If you are going to have more than 15 psi the air charge in the tank should be increased. The air charge in the expansion tank and water charge should be equal or close to the same pressure. Unfortunately you can/t tell how much air pressure you have in the tank with water pressure on the tank. With the air pressure not known I would keep the pressure near 12 psi to avoid premature failure of the tank. A quick test to get an idea is to wait until the boiler cools off and check the pressure on the gage. Let the boiler run to meet the high setting on the control. If the pressure climbs more than 3 psi the air charge is low or the tank is undersized.
If your home is not heating well at the much colder outdoor temperatures turn the water temperatures in this video up to 180-200. While the setting of 160f is more efficient, a warm house is also nice. You can turn it back down after the extreme cold snap.
Since I’m not an HVAC guy at all this is great advice!! Thank you for the knowledge!!
What is damper model number for this boiler?
@@Toetagman I’m not sure what you’re calling the damper. At what time point, in the video, are you talking about?