Quick tip always number the wires before you swap caps it makes that much easier another tip is take a photo of your numbered wires for a reference photo
I have to say your film is the best of the 3 I have watched so far on this subject ,no potty mouth Should be great for someone who has never undertaken this task BUT I dont know where to find the information I needed I might should have filmed my experience working on one for a neighbor that has not been tuned up in its 185,000 mile life time and I will admit this to be the newest I have worked on so I am a bit lost .I would say you are atleast 40 years younger than me so that would help in getting to the cap .But I found the old cap and new cap had different sized screws ,that took a while to get past ,plug wires are so short the cap wouldnt even lift with them on ,so its always good to mark them But where I hit the real fun was trying to pry the rotor off before it shattered like glass leaving just the center to be removed one piece at a time with pliers Cleaning the shaft I found a copper ring at the bottom that I had deformed whilst prying Ill not know until later when I get back from Oreillys where they sent me the wrong rotor if it is going to run again with that ring damaged I think I might better stick to my advanced design Chevys Im a firm believer 6 in a row makes er go Sure nuff easier to work on Good luck on getting 70 years of service outta that V8
okay i replaced the cap and rotor and the truck ran normal i drove it for like 10 minutes. then i parked it overnight and now it doesnt wanna start again. turns over and the radio and everything comes on. anybody have an idea?
Nate Magnuson you may have a fuel or air issue then, Nate. While there are many things that contribute, primarily AIR, FUEL, and IGNITION are the 3 main factors in an engine. I personally would start by checking fuel supply. And hope to all things Holy it isn't a fuel pump issue. Because that is a real pain in the ass to repair. IF you do attempt a fuel pump repair in the future... just be safe. That truck bed is heavy enough to kill a person. Hope it all works/worked out. (3 mo old post.)
It's good idea to put a little di-electric grease or spray silicone in the spark wire boot, insulates and makes it easier to get the plug wires off, especially on spark plug sleeves.
Your spark plug boot are installed the wrong way on your distributor, the flat head boot side suppose to go on your distributor and the round head boot side with those 2 lines goes on your spark plug but I guess it works both ways lol
You forgot to tell people to sand the inside of that slot that the rotor slips down on. If there is any rust in there, the rotor will not go down far enough and will damage the inside of the cap when it spins. I'm replacing the cap and rotor on mine because the previous owner didn't know any better and the rotor destroyed the inside of the cap.
I replaced my cap and rotor and quadruple checked the wiring order and it ran for 15 minutes, stalled and now I cant get it to start up. Wht did I do wrong?
Did this today on my 95 C1500 5.7L and couldnt get the rotor off, she's fully stuck on there. I'm going to have to make a tool to try and pry it up and off.
I do not know what wires go where off of dist cap... I took them off without looking. I know the firing order is 18436572 and that the odd numbers are on driver side and even are left.... but... what do I do now?
Make sure the module is plugged in, at base of distributor. I think there is a thermal paste applied to module underside. Cap and rotor [plugs/wires] are normal maintenance, module isn't. Check for fire, pull off a spark plug wire, insert screwdriver and ground it. Good luck.
I have an 88 GMC but the 350 in it are the flood out cut the switch off and cut it back on real fast and run fine for a minute then it'll do it again what's wrong
I had one screw that the head broke off and after getting the cap off I was able to get the rest of the screw out. But I wanted to tap the distributor out and guess what? They use a screw that is not in a metric tap set. I believe it is a 3.5mm x 0.6 thread size. It things like this that made me quit driving GM cars! I would put some anti-size on the screws when you do this job.
dan yeoman it's an American car, everything is in standard. some things can be converted to metric and work but everything is designed using standard measurements.
Well I'm just glad that I don't own one of these money pits. To the ones who do, hang on to your wallet!! I noticed that you didn't give the standard thread size. Yes, some of the bolts on the engine are standard, but some are metric. Another great idea,,,,,,,
I have a 1990 chevy k1500 cheyenne with a 305 that doesn't like to start sometimes mostly when its cold or wet do you think replacing this would help, i checked the fuel pump and all that is fine
If its cold or wet and it doesnt like to start, it could be a shorted wire thats getting wet or getting covered in condensation. Check your electrical grounds.
I have 1990 k1500. With cap installed #1 is in the 5 pm position , #8 is to the left of it (pass. side) like 7 pm looking at it from the front of the motor. Both terminals are even with each other to the front of truck. one is not ahead of the other.
Quick tip always number the wires before you swap caps it makes that much easier another tip is take a photo of your numbered wires for a reference photo
I have to say your film is the best of the 3 I have watched so far on this subject ,no potty mouth Should be great for someone who has never undertaken this task BUT I dont know where to find the information I needed I might should have filmed my experience working on one for a neighbor that has not been tuned up in its 185,000 mile life time and I will admit this to be the newest I have worked on so I am a bit lost .I would say you are atleast 40 years younger than me so that would help in getting to the cap .But I found the old cap and new cap had different sized screws ,that took a while to get past ,plug wires are so short the cap wouldnt even lift with them on ,so its always good to mark them But where I hit the real fun was trying to pry the rotor off before it shattered like glass leaving just the center to be removed one piece at a time with pliers Cleaning the shaft I found a copper ring at the bottom that I had deformed whilst prying Ill not know until later when I get back from Oreillys where they sent me the wrong rotor if it is going to run again with that ring damaged I think I might better stick to my advanced design Chevys Im a firm believer 6 in a row makes er go Sure nuff easier to work on Good luck on getting 70 years of service outta that V8
This video helped me out on my 91 chevy. just gotta make sure to get the firing order right and all the wires pushed on tight.
okay i replaced the cap and rotor and the truck ran normal i drove it for like 10 minutes. then i parked it overnight and now it doesnt wanna start again. turns over and the radio and everything comes on. anybody have an idea?
Nate Magnuson you may have a fuel or air issue then, Nate. While there are many things that contribute, primarily AIR, FUEL, and IGNITION are the 3 main factors in an engine. I personally would start by checking fuel supply. And hope to all things Holy it isn't a fuel pump issue. Because that is a real pain in the ass to repair. IF you do attempt a fuel pump repair in the future... just be safe. That truck bed is heavy enough to kill a person. Hope it all works/worked out. (3 mo old post.)
Boy, I wish my rotor would pop off of mine that easily!
Have a 1995 Chevy Silverado, video helped out a lot
It's good idea to put a little di-electric grease or spray silicone in the spark wire boot,
insulates and makes it easier to get the plug wires off, especially on spark plug sleeves.
Thank you sir i appreciate you
Good advice from a "traveling man"
He's a blue lodge mason. Only place he's traveling to is the local mason BBQ.
@@fr33ourminds Very disrespectful, and uncalled for !!!!!
Your spark plug boot are installed the wrong way on your distributor, the flat head boot side suppose to go on your distributor and the round head boot side with those 2 lines goes on your spark plug but I guess it works both ways lol
Greetings Br. /
KV @ Flagstaff #7 Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
Thanks for the video it helped me a lot
You forgot to tell people to sand the inside of that slot that the rotor slips down on. If there is any rust in there, the rotor will not go down far enough and will damage the inside of the cap when it spins.
I'm replacing the cap and rotor on mine because the previous owner didn't know any better and the rotor destroyed the inside of the cap.
I replaced my cap and rotor and quadruple checked the wiring order and it ran for 15 minutes, stalled and now I cant get it to start up. Wht did I do wrong?
Got it thanks my good man
firing order is on intake clearly marked as well which cylinder
Damn,, wanted to hear it fire up !!
Did this today on my 95 C1500 5.7L and couldnt get the rotor off, she's fully stuck on there. I'm going to have to make a tool to try and pry it up and off.
I have that same truck is there anyway you could post the firein order i think my brother put the wires on wrong
I have a 93 K1500 5.7 motor doing the same thing. It dries out and starts. Pretty sure its the distributor going to replace it tommorow.
Which is number 1 on the cap?
I appreciate the help man! 👍👍
Easier to leave old cap screwed down when transferring wires to new cap.
I do not know what wires go where off of dist cap... I took them off without looking. I know the firing order is 18436572 and that the odd numbers are on driver side and even are left.... but... what do I do now?
is fairly easy, are you using this same engine?
I was able to figure it out. THX
+Steven Hamilton good wish every one rembered this...
+Capcsee Eightseventy 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 . Facing out the winshield left bank odd right bank even..
Changed my cap, rotor & ignition module now it wont start !!! Checked wires 10 times & didn't move the distributor !!! I need a helping hand
Make sure the module is plugged in, at base of distributor. I think there is a thermal paste applied to module underside. Cap and rotor [plugs/wires] are normal maintenance, module isn't. Check for fire, pull off a spark plug wire, insert screwdriver and ground it. Good luck.
I have an 88 GMC but the 350 in it are the flood out cut the switch off and cut it back on real fast and run fine for a minute then it'll do it again what's wrong
love the mason ring. this isn't the secret knowledge is it?
give him some credit
I had one screw that the head broke off and after getting the cap off I was able to get the rest of the screw out. But I wanted to tap the distributor out and guess what? They use a screw that is not in a metric tap set. I believe it is a 3.5mm x 0.6 thread size. It things like this that made me quit driving GM cars! I would put some anti-size on the screws when you do this job.
dan yeoman it's an American car, everything is in standard. some things can be converted to metric and work but everything is designed using standard measurements.
Well I'm just glad that I don't own one of these money pits. To the ones who do, hang on to your wallet!! I noticed that you didn't give the standard thread size. Yes, some of the bolts on the engine are standard, but some are metric. Another great idea,,,,,,,
dan yeoman normally is not getting them out that breaks them it's over tightening them
They are all money pits
I have a 1990 chevy k1500 cheyenne with a 305 that doesn't like to start sometimes mostly when its cold or wet do you think replacing this would help, i checked the fuel pump and all that is fine
Matt Nickerson did you get it fixed? What was the problem
I have a '95 k1500 Cheyenne. Same engine and same problems. Going to replace these tomorrow. Did it fix your issue?
If its cold or wet and it doesnt like to start, it could be a shorted wire thats getting wet or getting covered in condensation. Check your electrical grounds.
Yes, replace the cap and rotor
I have 1990 k1500. With cap installed #1 is in the 5 pm position , #8 is to the left of it (pass. side) like 7 pm looking at it from the front of the motor. Both terminals are even with each other to the front of truck. one is not ahead of the other.
THE NUMBER ONE IS NEXT TO THAT HOLD DOWN SCREW THAT WE SEE.
i have a chevy 5.7 1995 what direction do i put the distributor facing the firewall or what direction?
Primero alinea la tapa, en la ranura del modulo de encendido, despues aprietas los tornillos.
Mine came with a packet of dielectric grease where does that go ?
The dialectic grease goes on the boots of your wires
where does the rotor face what direction chevy 1995 5.7 distributor?
Rita Ramirez if you get it time tdc, (, top dead center) rotor will point toward #1 cylinder(front drivers side of motor)
Was it just me... Or did he shift his cables around by 1 slot.
YES...lol i saw the same thing. i mean good video explaining what to do but he was was 1 off. good eye
I have a 95 suburban v8 4 wheel drive so mines should be the same
Why replace this?
He's a freemason!
eduardo quintero How can you tell?
Jackson Campbell his ring
get you a big boy screwdriver.
i did everything the same way and somehow i mess it up? idles super high
+Isaiah Guerrero Hi how much? Should be no more than 700 rpm..
Isaiah Guerrero did you happen to turn the distributor clockwise at all